On a Dime: Brake Tech – Brake Rotors

Brake Rotors

“Come on,” you’re probably thinking, “those break rotors are just big slugs of metal cut to fit my car.” Nope, break rotors are another very complicated part of your brake system. However, there is a huge misconception on how they should be designed. Those cross-drilled rotors you have are pretty much junk.

How Are Break Rotors Made?

Rotors are typically made of cast iron known as grey iron—a type of cast iron with graphite in the mixture and sometimes other compounds such as copper, silicon, or other materials that bond with iron. Early front disc brakes and many rear brakes today are a solid disc. However, these discs can have trouble with dissipating heat fast enough. This is where the invention of the vented disc brake came in to fix that issue.

Both types of discs are molded, but vented discs are done in a procedure known as sand casting. The veins of the vented rotor are made of a separate sand core. It’s placed between the cope (top portion of a mold) and drag (bottom portion of the mold) and the metal flows into the mold.

Those cross-drilled rotors you have are pretty much junk.

Once the metal cools, the core is removed by hammering it out, using air, or various other methods of removal depending on how the sand cast was made and bound. After that, the rotor is then machined for vehicle fitment before final surface finishing and coating—if a coating is being applied, that is. Drums are usually made in a very similar way with molds.

Rotor Faces

Rotor faces come in four distinct types: solid, slotted, cross-drilled, or slotted and drilled. How does each of those work and what are the advantages of each? We answer that in this rotor article.

Solid Face Rotors

A solid face rotor will be the most rigid and can dissipate heat very well. It can take a little more abuse and can also be resurfaced easily from “warping”. It’s the simplest design that all OEs take advantage of because it doesn’t require extra machining or complex work to build or mold it. While it’s simple, it’s still very effective in most high-performance brake systems where pad gassing and debris clearing isn’t an issue.

Slotted Face Rotors

A slotted faced rotor is designed to keep some of the rigidity and heat dissipation of the solid rotor but create a space for gasses and incandescent materials to be wiped away from the friction lining. Gasses come from the natural breakdown of the adhesive that holds the brake friction to the brake pad as it heats up from use. This gassing creates a bearing surface, like how an air gap works, and creates a form of brake fade because the gasses can’t be compressed. The slots transfer those gasses away from the friction and rotor surface along with the incandescent materials to improve braking performance in high-performance applications. A street car normally won’t see this, but if you track yours then you will and is why a slotted rotor is an excellent choice.

Cross-Drilled Rotors

A cross drilled rotor has holes drilled straight across each rotor face that also feature chamfered edges to reduce hot spots at those drill points. This design is for maximum degassing as the venting of the rotor helps pull those gasses away from the rotor surface. The problem you start to encounter with a cross drilled rotor is the reduction of surface area for cooling. This can cause heat stress cracks at the drill points and a loss of rigidity overall for the rotor.

With modern adhesives and pad construction, the requirement of a cross drilled rotor has been reduced to the point that they aren’t used that often. This includes professional motorsports. The exception is environments where having high rotor surface temperatures are needed for brake pad friction effectiveness or where the rotating material just needs to be removed. In other words, you don’t need a cross drilled rotor on your daily driver. The brake temperatures won’t be high enough for pad degassing and the pads you are using don’t need that much temperature to operate.

Slotted and Drilled Rotors

The combination of slotted and drilled seeks to gain the advantages of both: the maximum degassing of a cross drilled rotor and the wiping of the friction surface of the slotted rotor while also retaining some of the rigidity from the slotted rotor design. However, if you’re not experiencing any degassing issues with solid rotors, you’re not gaining much in terms of performance from switching to either version. You’ll also lose surface area that helps with cooling your brake rotors.

…if you’re thinking about getting those drilled or slotted rotors, you may want to reconsider.

Both a slotted and cross drilled rotor will be slightly lighter, but only by a few grams at best. Unless you’re in a Formula Car or maximized the reduction of the weight of your tires and wheels, losing weight at the rotor isn’t going to be of much use to you. It can be detrimental if you don’t buy a high-quality slotted or drilled rotor.

Losing Weight with a Two-Piece Rotor

However, if you want the maximum rigidity but want to reduce weight, you should consider a two-piece rotor with an aluminum hat, as you see here. The aluminum hat reduces the weight of the rotor significantly since that large mass of metal is of a lighter material. You also gain the ability to change rotor faces and material without changing the rotor hats and this type of hat can allow you to work with a custom design by just changing the hat instead of the whole rotor. This does come at a price increase over a solid hat and rotor but if you’re going for maximum lightness, the price usually isn’t a concern at that point.

How a Rotor Cools

Again, rotors come in solid disc or vented disc, with most front rotors being vented. The venting design is a centrifugal (radial) fan type, where—in the simplest terms—the blades create a low-pressure area on the outside of the rotor as it rotates. The high-pressure area between the blades flows in to fill in that low-pressure area, which then creates a low-pressure area behind that to pull in more air. Again, that’s oversimplifying it. Changing the angle of the blades can increase efficacy but will make the rotors directional. There are also multi-blade designs that direct airflow for better hot spot cooling.

So, if you’re thinking about getting those drilled or slotted rotors, you may want to reconsider. If you’re simply going for the looks, we can’t argue against it. If you’re going for performance, consider staying with a solid face rotor and finding other ways to either reduce rotational weight or brake cooling.

On a Dime: Brake Tech – Theory and Warping

Theory and Warping

Your brakes are possibly one of the most important parts of your car or truck. However, it’s probably one of the least well known after the shocks. Let’s talk about the basic theory of your brakes and discuss what “warping” really is.

You need to stop or slow down for that next corner but letting off the gas won’t slow you enough in many cases. In those cases, you need to get on the binders. When you hit your brake pedal, fluid is sent from the brake master cylinder to your calipers and/or drum wheel cylinder to move a set of pads or shoes against a rotating surface.

Those pads and shoes are fitted with a friction material that clamps down on that surface to take kinetic energy, in our case that is wheel rotation. That then turns that kinetic energy into thermal energy from the friction between the friction material and the rotor or drum surface. This friction causes the wheel to slow until it is stopped.

Well, they don’t warp like a wet piece of board does.

While your tire’s traction will determine how effective your braking is, the coefficient of friction of the brake liner will determine how much bite the pads or shoes will have on the rotors or drums. That thermal energy is then radiated away by airflow over the surface area of the rotor or drum.

Discs or rotors of the disc brake system do an equal amount of the hot work of the brake system, but they also do more than just transfer heat. Their face designs help the pads do their job, but what about the issue of rotors “warping?” Well, they don’t warp like a wet piece of board does. What’s happening is that the pads are leaving some of their friction material on the rotor surface under harsh braking.

Notice that “warping” is in quotation marks here. Your rotors do not warp in the sense that wood warps when it gets wet. Instead, what’s happening is that the brake friction material is transferring unequally to the rotor face. This can happen because of unequal temperatures on the surface of the rotor, a hotter spot on the rotor will transfer more friction material onto the rotor surface than the colder spot.

…what’s happening is that the brake friction material is transferring unequally to the rotor face.

This creates an uneven surface that transfers into the brake calipers and creates the judder and vibrations associated with “brake warping.” When a technician resurfaces the rotor, they are removing that access material along with the rotor surface to create an even face again.

That’s not to say a brake rotor can’t warp, but if it does there’s a whole host of other problems going on and usually, the rotor will crack and break before that warping happens.

Now that we’ve covered that, how about those rotors or brake pads?

Bias Ply vs. Radial Ply Tires: What Is the Difference?

When it comes to your standard driving tires, bias ply hasn’t been a term used in decades to describe the latest and greatest tires coming out on high-performance cars. In the racing, trailer, and even motorcycle worlds we still see bias ply but, even then, it’s quickly being displaced by radial tires. So, what is a bias ply and why has it been replaced by radial ply tires?

What’s being referenced when you talk about bias ply and radial ply are how the cords that make up the carcass of the tire are run from bead to bead. You’ll never see it until you wear the tread beyond its rubber layer. The term “bias” and “radial” are describing how the patterns of the ply are done.

A bias ply tire has its plies in a crisscross pattern as they overlap each other. So, one ply will lay in one diagonal (between 30- and 40-degrees from the direction of travel) while the other will lay in the opposite direction and would make an “X” if you were able to see through them. You can have multiple plies in a bias ply tire, too, usually in 4, 6, 8, or even 10 plies.

Most will be 4 plies, though. Bias ply tires also use far more rubber to create both the sidewall and tread as well as being supported by the plies. This was how tires were done from the 1930s all the way into the 1970s, with the last few cars coming with a bias ply in or around 1974.

A bias ply tire is far more flexible, so they can make for great off-road tires and drag radials where sidewall flex is beneficial. They also exhibit better traction at low speeds and in straight-line travel.

[Bias ply] treads wear faster and exhibit more rolling resistance, so you go through more money as you use up the tires and your gas far more often.

Because so much rubber is used, they are far more resistant to cuts and punctures. However, because they use so much rubber and are more flexible, they lose traction in cornering because they tend to roll-over on to the sidewall.

The treads wear faster and exhibit more rolling resistance, so you go through more money as you use up the tires and your gas far more often. This also means you’ll get flat spots if you allow a bias ply tire to sit on the vehicle’s weight for too long. You’ll also feel like your wandering due to cracks, ruts, and bad driving surfaces as these tires tend to follow those deformations.

While the tread isn’t directional, the way you rotate bias ply tires for maintenance is specific to them. You’ll take a left rear tire and move it to the left front, left front to the right rear, right rear to the right front, and right front to the left rear. Well, unless you have five tires (where you can use the spare as a normal driving tire) and then the left front becomes the spare and the spare moves to the right rear.

A radial tire, however, has its plies in a 90-degree pattern from the direction of travel from bead to bead (or radially from the center of the tire and where they get their name from). They have been around longer than most people realize, with tire patents dating back to 1915 by Arthur Savage in San Diego, California (the patents expired in 1949).

In France, Michelin designed, developed, patented, and commercialized a radial design by their researcher, Marius Mignol, in 1946 and Michelin X radial tires were installed as a factory standard tire for the 1948 Citroen 2CV.

…[Radial ply tires] have been around longer than most people realize…

The first factory standard radial tire for the US is credited to the 1970 Lincoln Continental Mark III after the August 1968 issue of “Consumer Reports” showed that they had better tread life, better steering characteristics, and less rolling resistance.

What makes the radial superior to bias ply tires (outside of high-load capacity) is that those radial cords allow better flex. It makes a tire act more like a spring and improve riding comfort even as load capacity rating increases. This also increased tire life as the flexing required was easier than bias ply, which would resist and begin to overheat the tire. Because of its radial pattern and using less rubber, you’re able to run a much wider and flatter tire footprint.

These tires will also have a rigid set of belts to reinforce the tread, usually made of steel, Kevlar, polyester, Twaron, or sometimes even a combination of them. That means that your sidewall and tread function as two independent part of the tire instead of one like a bias ply.

These belts can also be added between plies to meet specific design goals like reinforcing the sidewall for puncture resistance, increasing load capacity, and many other objectives.

Because of that and the expansion of rubber compounds using silica, we’re starting to see more and more applications that use radial tires over bias ply. In racing, many tires are now radial over bias because of the advantages of feel and character of the radial.

Much like the carburetor, the bias ply won’t go away but it will be only around for the niche.

Even drag radials are offering more straight-line grip and sidewall flex needed for powerful launches on the strip with the added benefit of not needing inner tubes.

For off-road, radial tires offer better flex and more grip on the rocks and sand. Trailer tires have even begun to make the switch to radial, even in higher load capacities typically reserved for bias plies. If you’re trying to look period correct, there are even radial tires for you.

The short story is that the areas where bias ply dominated are no longer solely for them. Radials have become an acceptable replacement in those areas. As ply and rubber technology continues to improve, the need for any type of bias ply will be left for those who are just in it for numbers-matching correct restoration. Much like the carburetor, the bias ply won’t go away but it will be only around for the niche.

Is There an Ultra High Performance Tire Right for You?

You build your car and have made it look like something straight off the race track. However, you don’t plan on driving it on the track all that often. Should you really have a set of Ultra-High Performance tires (or commonly known as UHP tires) on something you don’t track?

Someone who builds a cool looking car that’s low and functional doesn’t always end up on the race tracks across the world. There’s nothing wrong with that and people have been doing that since the early days of hot rodding. Even if they do track their cars, many drivers assume they need UHP Summer or “R-compound” tires for their car when, in reality, they don’t need them for daily driving. They quickly realize they are starting to waste a lot of money on those rubber donuts.

This type of UHP tire is typically designed to be used in environments that are warm and dry enough that they provide the right amount of traction to drive fast. The tread itself is very thin, usually no more than 5/32-inch deep with few sipes and grooves.

They quickly realize they are starting to waste a lot of money on those rubber donuts.

This means the ultra-high performance tread pattern is focused on providing maximum grip to a “clean” driving surface and their tread blocks will have very few voids and channels for water evacuation. Their rubber compound will also be softer to provide more mechanical grip at the limit.

This also equates to a tire that can take some time to learn to drive on the limit with. Many times, they don’t make enough noise or even breakaway slowly. When you go over their limits, it characteristically happens fast and without any audible warnings like you get from your typical street tire. It’s why many track day teachers will tell you not to drive on a UHP tire on your first few events until you get used to your car and how to drive by feel rather than sound.

It’s these characteristics that also make a UHP Summer tire wear faster than a standard street tire and doesn’t work in all seasons. If you drive your car where it rains often or you must drive through even light snow, these tires won’t work. They just aren’t designed to evacuate precipitation that hits the ground and you’ll begin to hydroplane.

UHP Summer and even Winter tires aren’t meant for daily, yearlong driving…

While having a softer compound is great for cold climates—where normal street rubber would become harder and not grip—that compound will also wear much, much faster. Ultra-High Performance Summer and even Winter tires aren’t meant for daily, yearlong driving because they wear much faster in warmer weather.

However, that doesn’t mean there isn’t a UHP tire you can’t take advantage of. You should look at the UHP All-Season tire for your daily driving needs. These tires have the tread pattern to allow for water and even snow evacuation so you have grip in the wet. The tread is usually between 8/32- and 11/32-inch deep but their tread siping is also designed to support their neighboring tread blocks using interlocking sipes. This means, as you corner in a high-G load, the tread blocks support each other and prevent them from bending too much during cornering, decreasing heat that leads to tire tread chunking and degradation.

They also have a specific tread compound that works in both warm and cold environments as they contain more silica in the compound. The black color your tires have comes from carbon black. This carbon black also helps determine the softness of the rubber compound, so the more carbon black, the softer the compound is.

…UHP All-Season tires really can let you have your cake and eat it, too.

Tire manufacturers have begun to use silica (also known as silicon dioxide), a type of compound that many try to describe as sand. Silica is only a part of sand, however, as this compound is also found in quartz and even living organisms.

What makes silica amazing, and why it’s being used in UHP tires more often, is that it provides a lower rolling resistance while also improving the grip of rubber tires and results in a more elastic and flexible compound at lower temperatures versus similar tires with more carbon black. According to Rubber World, “The use of silica can result in a reduction in rolling resistance of 20% and can also improve wet skid performance by as much as 15%, substantially improving braking distances at the same time.”

So, UHP All-Season tires really can let you have your cake and eat it, too. However, if you are participating in a track day and have some experience under your belt, you should be using a set of UHP Summer tires then. If you’re just trying to look the part, you can stick with the UHP All-Seasons all year long. That way, you get the benefits of more grip without the headaches of spending money on constantly replacing worn tires and worrying about hydroplaning in the wet.

Porsche Vice: Das Renn Treffen 2019

Since 2015, Das Renn Treffen (DRT) has brought the best Porsches that Miami has to offer while also benefitting local charities in the South Florida area. This year, it has grown into a three-day celebration of the brand from Stuttgart.

DRT probably snuck up on many people in the last few years. While many have been concentrating on Luftgekühlt and the Rennsport Reunion on the West Coast, South Florida has been creating a large Porsche gathering of their own. It may even rival them to some degree, but the East Coast is certainly showing it’s capable of creating a show worthy of the Stuttgart crest.

What is DRT?

It started in 2015 as a sister event to Volksblast, itself a nearly 20-year old Volkswagen show that celebrates classic V-Dubs. You could find the latest and greatest Porsches to vintage race cars and everything in between, so long as it was a Porsche.

It remained a single day show until February 2018 when it grew into a two-day event. This year, it became a three-day festivity that included a track day at Palm Beach International Raceway filled with race cars and some of the quickest street cars in the South Florida area.

…the East Coast is certainly showing it’s capable of creating a show worthy of the Stuttgart crest.

That’s not including the live music, food, and the many, many vendors that showed up to make this into a huge event. Other than the track day, all of this took place at Sunset Place, right in the middle of South Miami.

Those who attended were greeted by historic and restored Porsches, ultra-rare RUFs, race cars, and some interesting custom creations. You weren’t limited to just rear-engine and air-cooled Porsches as 944s, 918 Spyders, 914s, and even Carrera GTs made appearances. From street cars to rare cars, it just needed that crest.

It’s Not Just About Cars

Probably the most important thing to know about Das Renn Treffen is that it’s not just a Porsche show. These guys raise money for charities and non-profits located in the South Florida area. One of the biggest they support is the City of South Miami Parks and Recreation Department STEM Program.

Its goal is to help foster the next generation of adults who specialize in science, technology, engineering, and math—essentially creating kids interested in what it takes to make stuff like the Porsches they saw at this event and more.

The Track Day

For the first day of DRT, event goers were treated to a track day at Palm Beach International Raceway, once known as Moroso Motorsports Park (yes, that Moroso if you’re familiar with the classic performance parts brand) until 2008.

It’s a 10-turn, 2.2-mile course that’s FIA Grade II certified and means anything besides Formula 1 cars can race on the facility. So, this isn’t an outdated or backyard track these drivers were running.

The cars ranged from a few GT3s (both racers from the GT3 Experience and the street variety) to Caymans to classic air-cooled era Porsches, even including a 993 Turbo, a classic Supercup racer, and a 981C Cayman GT4. For RWB fans, many of those wide-body modified Porsches showed up and even went on track.

If there’s one thing that’s awesome about an RWB owner, is that there are quite a few that are willing to track their Nakai-built creations. There is no better way to experience a Porsche except out on the track where it was designed to perform and was the perfect way to open DRT for 2019.

The Collection Cars and Coffee

If you were willing to be at The Collection—a Porsche dealer in Coral Gables, Florida—in the mid-morning, you were greeted by Cars and Coffee meet. It was sort of a pre-DRT with show-goers showing up along with examples from The Collection as well.

These ranged from 356s that were lovingly restored to street legal and tracked 991 GT3s to the latest 991.2 GT3 RSs. It was such a turnout, one had to wonder if this wasn’t going to overshadow the whole show. Turns out, this would just be a warmup.

DRT 2019

This was the event everyone was here for, Das Renn Treffen or loosely translated to “The Race Meet.” If you wanted to see at least one of each Porsche ever made without going to Germany, this was the event you needed to hit.

Classic air-cooled to modern hybrids and more were on display. There were some amazing Porsche classics ranging from unrestored 356s to strikingly beautiful four-cylinder 912s. However, it wasn’t just those built by the factory, either.

Singer Vehicle Design, RWB, and RUF all had examples on display by owners from around the South Florida area and even in parts from around the US and beyond. Yes, this even has become that big of a deal.

Most who drive a Singer say they feel like the real evolution of the 911.

On the subject of modified cars, however, there was one viewed with special interest. “Carolina,” Akira Nakai’s very first US-built Porsches and the one he personally owned. It’s now driven by a new owner and modified from when Nakai first built it, but it’s still as stunning as when it was finished the first time.

Not to be outdone, though, Singer Vehicle Design brought out their latest collection of restored and modified Porsche 911s to DRT all the way from Irvine, California. They are some of the most amazing reworks of the 911 chassis that many feel Singers are more 911 than even the current 992.

Most who drive a Singer say they feel like the real evolution of the 911. It’s hard to argue against that as they are upfitted with better suspensions, lighter-weight panels than the originals, and retain their air-cooled flat-six engines.

There is Always Room for more Porsche Events

While you probably think of Luftgekühlt or Rennsport as the ultimate Porsche showcase, DRT should be something you start to consider. With the growth of the event and the class of cars that came out, it’s hard to continue to ignore it.

If you’ve never heard of it, you need to attend the next one in 2020 and that’s especially so if you’re a fan of the Stuttgart brand. It’s only going to continue to grow and get better, and you can’t pick a better place to celebrate Porsches as you can with Miami.

Classic Tri-Five

1955 to 1957 Chevrolet Car History

It’s not actually a single car, but when you say “Tri-Five,” people know you’re talking about that classic “shoebox” style Chevrolet automobiles from 1955 to 1957. Their revolutionary designs spawned a legendary history and full-on industries that cater solely to them. What made these cars special?

It’s not hard to see the Tri-Five as part of Americana, the idealized vision of the 50s and 60s in the United States and its car culture. The name comes from the three years these cars came about 1955, 1956 and 1957. Each year, the cars changed radically to match the looks of Cadillacs of the time. It was a huge effort, costing Chevrolet millions of dollars in 1950s money to make it happen. But, make it happen they did and spurned off one of the most recognized and desired set of automobiles the world has ever seen.

Prior to 1955

While we recognize the Tri-Five as a specific idea in our heads, the reality is that prior to 1955 Chevrolet had the One-Fifty, Two-Ten, and Bel Air models built and in production. All three started earlier with 1950 for the Bel Air and 1953 for the One-Fifty and Two-Ten. It was the Bel Air that set the tone for all three models and any Chevrolet until 1975.

It started as a two-door convertible with a hardtop, but that hardtop couldn’t be removed. It was a very sleek looking roof design and the Bel Air wouldn’t get a real convertible until 1953. That same year, it became a high-end model with the One-Fifty and Two-Ten being the lower trims.

…parts that made that 1940s era of cars unique to themselves was now gone…

It was also where Chevrolet evolved from pre-WWII automotive design. Torque tube drives, splash-feed six-cylinder engines, knee-action suspension, split windshields and parts that made that 1940s era of cars unique to themselves was now gone and replaced with modern designs. There was also the addition of more chrome to bigger exterior trim parts, too.

1955, The 265 V8, and The Nomad

Then came 1955 and a quick series of evolutions began for the full-size Chevrolet cars. The biggest thing that brought this about was the introduction of the 265-cubic-inch Small Block Chevrolet V8 known as the “Turbo-Fire” and the original SBC. That displacement was made by the 3.750-inch bore and 3.00-inch stroke.

It was the combination of high-compression with that short stroke that produced 162-horsepower with a two-barrel carburetor. However, it was the “Power Pack” and “Super Power Pack” options that lit the fire with 180-horsepower in the Power Pack and 195-horsepower with the Super Power Pack. What made these different were the use of four-barrel Rochester carburetors and dual exhausts.

While impressive, there was an issue with the 265 in 1955: there was no oil filtration built into the block. It was an add-on option mounted to the thermostat housing. For that reason, the ’55 265 is only desirable to period correct, numbers matching builders.

However, this engine was backed by the equally legendary Powerglide two-speed automatic. It wasn’t the only option for 1955, though, as the base One-Fifty model cars were available with the 235-cubic-inch I6.

…Harley Earl, said the Corvette-based Nomad was one of his dream cars…

’55 was also the introduction of the Nomad. It was introduced in its mid-year run with the Bel Air trim and V8 standard as a two-door station wagon. It was also the higher-end option as it came with upscale carpeting, two-tone paint, headliner trim, and other features to separate it from the One-Fifty Series. What helped set its distinction, though, was its roots from the General Motors Motorama show car with the same name.

The Motorama shows were where the public could see prototype vehicles of the time like the Corvette, Pontiac Bonneville Special, and the Oldsmobile F-88. Head Stylist at GM, Harley Earl, said the Corvette-based Nomad was one of his dream cars and followed the introduction of the 1950 Ford Country Squire, also a two-door station wagon.

1956

These are considered “carryover” models, with a few changes made. The one everyone paid attention to, however, was the bump in power and include an oil filter in the 265.

Aftermarket and tinkers, hot rodders, had already started making huge power gains in the 265 and Chevrolet was right there with them. The standard 265 went from just 162-horsepower to 225 while the Super Power Pack version upped that to 240-horsepower with that Rochester four-barrel carburetor.

The Bel Air model, though, received some interesting changes to its grille. It went from its “Ferrari-inspired” front end to a full-width grille, which more people liked. The tail lights became incorporated into their housings and were single piece save for the left-hand side. That used a Cadillac-inspired feature of housing the gas filler behind it.

Oh, and only 7.4-percent of Bel Air owners ordered seat belts.

The Bel Air also got a new model known as the Sport Sedan and was a pillarless four-door hardtop. There was even the option for a rain-sensing automatic top that was seen on the 1951 LeSabre concept car but was never believed to have ever been installed. Oh, and only 7.4-percent of Bel Air owners ordered seat belts.

1957 and the Turboglide

1957 would be the last year for the Tri-Five. All cars now got those large tailfins that made them spectacular and the “twin rocket” hoods. Cars would get a tricolor paint with even more chrome outside and in.

The horsepower wars were heating up between the Big Three and Chevrolet gave owners a choice of seven different V8s. These ranged from the original 265 to the then new 283-cubic-inch SBC—some of those even coming with early Rochester Ramjet mechanical fuel injection and produced 283-horsepower.

This was also the introduction to the Turboglide automatic transmission. Instead of being a two-speed transmission, the Turboglide was a form of continuously variable gear-ratio transmissions. The way it works is like how a sequential-dual-clutch box works. Sort of.

Usually, an automatic has a torque converter with three elements inside it: the impeller, the turbine, and the stator. The impeller pumps fluid through the turbine with the stator directing oil so it hits the back of the impeller blades. This action also gives the torque converter that multiplication ability.

How A Turboglide Works

The Turboglide is different and, if you think a regular automatic is witchcraft, you’re not ready for this. The Turboglide has three individual drive turbines with each connected to a different ratio inside of the gearbox. Transmission fluid goes from the impeller pump to the first turbine blade, striking it and engaging the “first gear” ratio.

That first turbine then acts as a stator and causes the fluid to strike the blades of the second turbine and “second gear” ratio. Finally, the second turbine acts as the final stator and the fluid strikes the blades of the third turbine and it goes into “direct drive” ratio.

This is directly connected to the output shaft of the transmission. Once the low turbine matches the pump speed, it freewheels on a one-way sprag clutch while the second turbine begins to match the speed of the impeller pump. Eventually, it does and that’s how fluid will pass through it and fully drive the direct drive.

…if you think a regular automatic is witchcraft, you’re not ready for this.

It also still has a stator which can switch between two positions and that’s controlled by the driver through the accelerator pedal. It works like a transmission kick-down in a conventional transmission to engage a “passing gear” or drop down to the next lowest gear to increase power going to the rear wheels.

The most interesting part about this, the engine stayed nearly at the same RPM through operation, changing only to accelerate. At normal operation, the Turboglide operated the engine between 3500 and 4000-RPM in roughly a 400-RPM window.

If you’re thinking this sounds like the operation of the modern Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT), you’re not far off but the Turboglide was fully hydraulic and could be geared to multiply engine torque at any speed whereas CVTs are nearly all mechanical.

The other advantage was the use of the Grade Retarder range, which allowed the engine to “engine brake.” You could use the engine to slow you down just like you would in a manual. That’s why a Turboglide selector goes P-R-N-D-Gr.

The End of the Tri-Five Era, but Not the Bel Air

After 1957, Chevrolet did away with the One-Fifty and Two-Ten models and began the longer, lower, and the heavier era of car design. These cars were replaced by the Delray (One-Fifty) and Biscayne (Two-Ten). 1958 not only marked the beginning of the Chevrolet Big Block engine with the 348-cubic-inch V8 but also making the Bel Air into the “halo car” for Chevrolet with the Impala.

This meant that the Impala Bel Air was only available in a hardtop coupe and convertible for its first year. While it had similar design cues from other models, the Impala had a different roofline, a vent above its rear window, unique side trim, and triple tail lights housed in broader alcoves.

The last of the Bel Airs would be manufactured in 1975 for 1976, but a brand-new trim would be born and create an even more exciting, performance orientated trim line. The 1961 to 1969 Impala Super Sport, the SS.

Going Big: A General Guide to 40-Inch Off-Road Tires

Going off-roading means you need 40-inch tires, right? Well, it depends. There are some things you need to take into consideration before going oversized.

First, we must confess that this is a bit of a generalization. What we’ll be discussing here might not be exactly what your truck or SUV needs to make that jump to a 40-inch tire. For example, your rig might come with axles strong enough to turn a 40-inch tires without breaking the splines or itself in half. You might be able to remove your fenders on your Jeep but the guy in the F150 can’t.

If you’re just a mall crawler, you might be fine with mostly stock stuff, but if you do go off-road, you’ll need upgrades. So, this will be a guide of things to take into consideration before plunking down cash on those big tires. We won’t touch on anything specific to any single vehicle.

Let’s start with the thing everyone points out as the first thing to change or at least modify: your axles. First, why? Why do you need to consider your axle when changing to larger diameter tires? Much of it has to do with the diameter and additional weight of the tires. Yes, you need to re-gear (and recalibrate your speedometer) to overcome the increased overall gear ratio. A 33-inch tire will have a rollout of 103.7-inches and will rotate 630 times per mile.

A 40-inch tire, on the other hand, will have a rollout of 125.7-inches and will rotate 517 times per mile and means you are going further on each rotation. By changing to a taller tire, you’ve essentially increased your overall gear ratio and will be showing a slower speed than what you’re actually doing. So, if you were doing 65-MPH with a 33×12.50, you’ll be doing nearly 80-MPH with a 40×13.50 while still showing 65-MPH.

…if you’re going with big tires, most likely plan on going with bigger axles at the same time.

This means you would not only have to recalibrate your speedometer but also need to re-gear to keep the engine RPMs close to the same for the corrected speed. Fortunately, there are many online calculators to help you determine what gear you need for the tire size increase as well as handheld tuners that allow you to recalibrate your speedometer for your tire size and gearing.

That won’t be the only problems with your axles, though. Because of the increased weight, you’ve also increased the rotational mass and resistance to rotation. This means you’ll need more torque and you’ll do that by adding power or decreasing your gear ratio or both. This increases stress on the axles and usually leads to failure at the splines and axle shafts on straight axles and, additionally, failure of U-joints or constant velocity joints on independent axles. So, if you’re going with big 40-inch tires, most likely plan on going with bigger axles at the same time.

You’ll probably want to invest in new driveshafts, as those will be the next weakest links when it comes to transferring torque to your axles. Most truck and SUV transmissions and transfer cases can operate fine with big tires, but you’ll want to inspect them more often or consider a swap out for heavier-duty versions from the aftermarket. You won’t necessarily need an Atlas or even an NP205, but definitely look for upgrades for your chain-driven New Process transfer case that will allow it to handle more torque. However, if you have a regular NP241, get something better or at least an NP241HD.

You’ll need a lift, even if you already have a 2- or even 3-inch lift you’ll need to go a bit higher to clear the tires. This is where an IFS suspension starts to lose its advantages as you raise the truck higher, it will continue to ruin the steering and feel of the truck or SUV. You’ll also wear parts out much quicker because of the stresses and the increased load of the lift as well as the tires.

…it’s probably best for only hardcore off-road rigs and showboaters.

You’re looking at a custom suspension regardless if you stay with your IFS or swap the front to a solid axle. For the rear with leaf springs, you’ll be able to find re-arched springs for a decent lift without needing to resort to a huge block for sprung-over axles (where leaf sits on top of the axle). For sprung-under, you’ll have to convert it to sprung-over or you’ll have arches so large it will be pointless.

If you don’t lift, the body will need extensive modification for a 40-inch tire to work. If you don’t want to cut sheet metal, your only other option will be to replace it with fiberglass parts made for prerunners and desert trucks. If you cut metal, most states will require you to have something to cover the tires and have clearance lights on fender extensions to remain legal. Easy to do on a Jeep, not so easy to accomplish on anything with a regular body.

You’ll also have to make sure the wheels you use to give you the right backspacing (offset) to clear those very wide tires. The rear can typically be more aggressive than the front and can get away with higher backspacing (lower offset). The fronts, however, need to be spaced so that you can turn properly and not rub the frame or suspension components. Again, in many states, there are also legal issues with tires rubbing the body and chassis.

Running 40-inch tires isn’t easy, in fact, it’s probably best for only hardcore off-road rigs and showboaters. It’s not impossible to run that big of a tire, but there are many, many things you need to consider before doing it. This is just a short list as there are explicit things you need to do to specific vehicles to run tires this big. The best piece of advice we can give you is to research. Look for who’s done it with a vehicle like yours and see the trials and tribulations they had to go through to make it work. Then, decide if you’re willing to do the same.

If not, there’s nothing wrong with running 35s on your truck, SUV or Jeep and they are plenty capable. Just ask the guys who race in the Ultra4 Every Man Challenge.

The History of the GM C/K Truck

GM, through Chevrolet and GMC, have had a long and successful history with the truck design. Starting in 1941 with the Chevrolet AK-Series though to the 1947 A-platform Advanced-Design series with Chevy and GMC to the 1955 Task Force, GM trucks built a legacy of dependability and beautiful design made to work for blue-collar businesses and farms across the US. It was that last design that would lead into a new generation that offered four-wheel drive as a factory-built option—the C/K Series.

First Generation – 1960 to 1965

The C/K designation was possibly the longest-lived and it was thanks to that legend that came before it. The Task Force would introduce a few firsts that influenced the C/K: the wrap-around windshield and rear window in deluxe cabs, power steering, and brakes, a 12-volt electrical system. The C/K, however, improved that further by offering the first drop-center ladder frame—a frame that dipped down to allow the cab of the truck to sit lower. Typically, your frame was straight, and the cab had to sit higher. This new design would bend down just at the firewall of the cab, then bend back up just after the rear cab wall.

This was also the first truck to offer an independent front suspension. This was five years before Ford introduced the “Twin I-Beam” front suspension. Before either of these, trucks used a straight axle on leaf springs. What made the GM front end superior, in on-road use, was that a true independent design gave the C/K a more car-like ride and handling character.

GMC followed Chevrolet designations for their trucks up this point, with the introduction of the C/K, GMC would not use “C” in their two-wheel drive trucks but instead only use “K” differentiate between two- and four-wheel drive. GMC would also use numbers in thousands—1000/K1000 for half-ton, 1500/K1500 for three-quarter-ton, 2500 for one-ton—rather than the tens but were identical in design until 1963.

This was also the first time Chevrolet would offer a GM-designed four-wheel drive system in their trucks. Four-wheel drive was an option prior to this but was a conversion made by NAPCO (Northwestern Auto Parts Company) called the “Powr-Pak” and was offered up until 1959. While it was installed by the factory, it was a conversion rather than something built directly to work with the chassis on the factory line. The C/K, with K being the designation for four-wheel drive, was installed on the factory floor with a “divorced” Timken T-221 (Rockwell T-221). Unlike the C-trucks, the K’s remained straight axle with a closed-knuckle Dana 44 and an H-O33 rear end sitting on leaf springs front and rear.

The C/K designation was possibly the longest-lived and it was thanks to that legend that came before it.

The C’s front suspension would utilize torsion bars from 1960 to 1962, where it then switched over to coil springs from 1963 and onwards. The rear suspension used trailing arms that we call “truck arms” today with coil springs. The rear end was located by a “tracking arm,” also known as a Panhard bar, laterally. In 1963, the GMC trucks would switch over to a leaf spring rear end.

From 1960 to 1963, engines ranged from the 230-cubic-inch, the 236-cubic-inch and 261-cubic-inch I6s; the GMC 305-cubic-inch V6 in the GMCs, and the 283-cubic-inch Small Block Chevy. Behind these were either a three-speed or four-speed manual or a Powerglide two-speed automatic. After ’63, new engines were offered with a new base 230-cubic-inch I6 and an optional 292-cubic-inch I6.

In 1964, the wrap around the windshield was designed out of the cab, along with other interior changes, but the rest of the body was still mostly the same. In 1965, air conditioning and the 327-cubic-inch Small Block Chevy V8 were offered as options. It’s final year, 1966, a new 250-cubic-inch I6 was offered as a base engine, but no other changes were made.

Second Generation – 1967 to 1972

In 1966, designated as a 1967MY, the C/K’s body design was modernized and took on the squarer look enthusiasts are more familiar with. This would also be the only year RPO A10, a factory installed large rear window, would be offered. The suspension designs learned from the first generation stayed, including GMC trucks still retaining a leaf spring rear over the truck arm. Leaf springs were optional on Chevys.

Coming in as standard was the 250-cubic-inch I6 or 283-cubic-inch Small Block Chevy V8 with a three-speed manual transmission. The C10 could get an overdrive unit as an option, but there were four-speed manuals offered along with the Powerglide two-speed and the Turbo-Hydramatic automatics with the TH350 and the TH400. Optional engines included the 292-cubic-inch I6 and 327-cubic-inch Small Block Chevy V8. The trucks on the 10-series were 6×5.5-inch bolt pattern while three-quarter-ton and up trucks used the 8×6.5-inch bolt pattern.

In 1968, side-marker reflectors were added and the optional large rear window as now standard. This was also the 50th anniversary of building trucks for GM, so a special “50th Anniversary” package was built with an exclusive white-gold-white tricolor paint scheme. This would be the first year the 307-cubic-inch Small Block Chevy and 396-cubic-inch Mark 4 Big Block Chevy V8s were offered. There would also be the Longhorn three-quarter-ton C40 which was a 133-inch wheelbase with a bed six-inches longer than the standard. It was also available only as a two-wheel drive, so if you find a “Longhorn 4WD,” it’s an aftermarket conversion.

…the C/K’s body design was modernized and took on the squarer look enthusiasts are more familiar with.

The 327 V8 would be dropped and we would see the first use of the legendary 350-cubic-inch Small Block Chevy V8 in 1969 and stay in it until the end of C/K production. This was also the introduction of the Chevrolet K5 Blazer and GMC Jimmy utility variants with shorter wheelbases. The cabs were also modified to allow the use of a foot-operated parking brake rather than a hand operated one.

This would also not only introduce the Sierra and Sierra Grande option packages for GMCs but also add upper and lower trim moldings to the body. In 1970, the 396 was bored out to 402-cubic-inches but was still branded as a “396.” Other than an update to the grille, with plastic inserts with highlights that make it have six separate sections, the body was the same as the ’69.

The biggest changes came in 1971. A new “egg crate” grille was used in the Chevrolet trucks along with introducing the Cheyenne trim package. It was a comfort feature package, like GMC’s Sierra package, with better interiors, carpet and chrome on the trim, upper and lower side molding and tailgate trim. This was also the first year AM/FM radios were factory installed and the front brakes converted to discs.

This was also the year two-wheel trucks switched to a 5×5-inch bolt pattern and the four-wheel drives used the 6×5.5-inch bolt pattern, another feature that would stay until the end of the C/K series. Other than moving the interior rear-view mirror from being bolted to the top of the cab to glued to the windshield, the C/Ks didn’t change much until the introduction of the new generation in 1973.

Third Generation – 1973 to 1987

While billed as 1973, this new, clean sheet redesign of the C/K was introduced in mid-year 1972 with development going back into 1968. This would be some of the first use of computer simulation on truck components before being used on prototype trucks for real-world testing. This testing and design would lead into the “Square-body” generation of the C/K that’s still beloved and in high demand by enthusiasts today. The Chevrolet and GMC C/K were unlike anything on the road at the time. Gone were the overly round looks and boxed and sharp lines were used.

The headlights were also no longer a round design but instead, pairs of square headlights flanked a brand-new grille. The tail-lamps wrapped around into the bedsides rather than being seen from just the rear. However, there were rounded portions done to the body and the entire exterior was wind tunnel tested for improved aerodynamics and fuel efficiency, including the development of a hidden radio antenna embedded into the windshield glass.

The wheelbase of this new C/K was also longer with it growing to 117.5-inches for short wheelbase trucks and 131.5-inches for the longer ones. The one-ton truck could get the “Big Dooley” package for the first time with dual-rear wheels and introduced the new Crew Cab on the 164.5-inch wheelbase trucks. The fuel tank was moved out of the cab and down to the side of the frame, which allowed for a dual fuel tank option for the first time to increase fuel load to 40-gallons.

For 15 years, the Square-body roamed the streets, but Crew Cabs would last until 1991. Within those years, there would be several trim models, but the most important part was the introduction of safety materials used in the passenger cabin. The dashboard, door arm rests, steering wheel, and shift levers were all made of soft-touch materials. Upper trim levels used sound-deadening materials and 1980 would introduce both a tape player option as well as a CB radio.

The Chevrolet and GMC C/K were unlike anything on the road at the time.

The third-gen C/K would also introduce self-adjusting disc brakes with finned drums in the rear. Optionally, you could have four-wheel Vacuum-Boost or Hydra-Boost, a hydraulic brake boost system that’s still used by GM, but in an electro-mechanical form. The rear could be optioned with the “Load Control” suspension, a variable rate multi-leaf spring system with offset shock absorbers. This reduced wheel hop under heavy loads and hard acceleration.

For four-wheel drive, the K-Series could have “Conventional” New Process NP-205, “Permanent” NP-203, or “Shift-On-The-Move” NP-208 (only from 1981 and onwards, replaced the NP-203) transfer case systems. The transfer case was also bolted directly to the transmission output rather being divorced like in previous gen trucks.

All K’s would come with the “Load Control” rear suspension while the front would take that design with inline shock geometry rather than offset. Finally, the exposed brake lines were wrapped in steel and chassis had optional skid plate armor for off-road protection. In 1973, the Eaton Automatic Differential Lock replaced the Eaton NoSpin and the Positraction Limited-Slip differential in 1974. It used an internal governor to detect vehicle speed and wheel slip, disengaging at 20-MPH.

In 1975, the 400-cubic-inch Small Block Chevy was added with a realignment of trim levels. 1976 saw the removal of engine sizes from the grille while ’77 introduced power windows and door locks as options. One-ton trucks would finally get four-wheel drive with a Dana 60 used as a front axle. All models got flatter dash trim panels, black on the lower trim and aluminum-look on upper trim packages. Upper trims had fuel doors added to hide exposed fuel caps, too.

Gone were the overly round looks and boxed and sharp lines were used.

1979 would see a change to the grille surround to incorporate turn signals and all trims would get fuel doors rather than exposed caps to match the upper trims in 1977/78. 1980 would remove the permanent NP-203 and 1981 added the NP-208 along with a facelift. This was done to reduce the high-drag areas of the truck and it gained a “ship bow” like look to the front end and eventually influence the fourth and final generation C/K along with weight reductions and halogen headlights. Perhaps some of the biggest changes came in the engine, with the 305-cubic-inch V8 offered with electronic spark control. Well, except in California where the 350 replaced the 305 with ESC as it didn’t meet SMOG requirements.

For 1982MY, the 700R4 overdrive automatic was added along with a 379-cubic-inch Detroit Diesel V8 and chrome bumpers were standard on base models. 1985 saw the 262-cubic-inch LB1 with a Rochester Quadrajet carburetor replace the 250 I6. Hydraulic clutches were introduced, and the grille was changed.

In 1987, the C/K were renamed R/V, with R designating two-wheel drive and V designating four-wheel drive. The reason being is that the new generation of C/Ks was beginning production. These final generation “Square-bodies” were updated to single-point TBI (throttle-body injection) with electric fuel pumps and high-pressure fuel lines. This also introduced the powertrain control module (PCM) to the mix. It controlled the TBI, ignition timing, and the 700R4’s turbine torque converter clutch. In 1988, the fourth-gen C/K would come about and be the final C/K line of GM trucks.

Fourth Generation – 1988 to 1999 GMT400-Chassis

While planning started in the early 1980s, production development of the GMT400—the fourth generation of the C/K truck—didn’t begin until 1984 and introduced in April of 1987 as an ’88. While still square in appearance, these trucks were different in many ways. The biggest being that all trucks would get a front independent suspension, including four-wheel drive. There were also four different body styles: Fleetside Single Cab, Fleetside Extended Cab, Fleetside Crew Cab, and Stepside Single Cab. Trims were available as Cheyenne, Scottsdale, and Silverado.

The engine options on half-tons were the 4.3-liter V6, 5.0-liter V8, 5.7-liter V8, and a 6.2-liter diesel V8. Three-quarter and one-ton trucks could get the 7.4-liter V8. The drivetrains were all carryovers from the last year of the third-gen C/K and R/V. The GMT400 was also the first GM vehicle to use an electronic speedometer and serpentine accessory drive on its engines. 1988 introduced the world to the Work Truck (W/T) trim, a long-bed, single cab Cheyenne trim with a different grille and black bumpers. This was also the introduction of the GMC 3500 EFI with a 454-cubic-inch Big Block Chevy V8.

In 1989, the Z71 Off-Road package was offered for the first time with skid plates and Bilstein shocks available to the model. 1990 would give us a high-performance variant of the GMT400, the C1500 Super Sport, also known as the 454SS or by its RPO code B4U. This was powered by a 454-cubic-inch Big Block Chevrolet V8 with a TH400 sending power to the rear end. That rear end was a 3.73:1 14-bolt corporate with the only 5×5-inch bolt pattern, the only one to use this combination.

32mm Bilstein gas-filled shocks and a 32mm anti-roll bar improved cornering while a 12.7:1 fast-ratio steering box allowed the driver to make quick moves behind the wheel. In 1991, it would finally get the 4L80E with a new 4.10:1 rear gear ratio. It also received a tachometer in 1991 and dual-exhaust until 1993. While it’s seen mostly in black, there were Summit White and Victory Red in 1992 until 1993, when production of the 454SS was discontinued.

While still square in appearance, these trucks were different in many ways.

1991 introduced the new 4L80-E to the three-quarter- and one-ton trucks. 1992 dropped the four-speed manual transmission option and stepside trucks were offered with extended cabs. This year also introduced the 6.5-liter diesel V8 with a turbocharged option. 1994, the GMT400s got the federally mandated center-mount stop light as well as a new front-end design.

1993 introduced the new 4L60E automatic transmission, replacing both the 700R4 and its evolution, the 4L60. 1995 would require changes to the interior to fit the new mandated driver’s side airbag, but also a central-mounted radio, dial-operated HVAC (rather than levers) and improved cluster gauge. 1995 C/Ks and Sierras would get new exterior mirrors.

1996 saw the introduction of an optional passenger’s side third-door on extended cab trucks. The engines were also replaced by “Vortec” versions, which increased horsepower in V6 and V8 engines. However, the 6.2-liter diesel V8 was dropped. 1996 brought in the new federally mandated passenger’s side airbag on 1500, but the 2500/3500 were exempt and were given a new storage compartment.

1997 would be the last year “CHEVROLET” would emblaze the tailgate except on Cheyenne models until 1998. ’98 would bring us the PassLock anti-theft system, a new advanced driver’s airbag, and new “Silverado” badge on the tailgate. The deluxe two-tone paint would be discontinued but a more conventional two-tone would remain as an option.

1999 would be the final full production year of the GMT400 as the new GMT800 would be unveiled for 1999 as a 2000MY. Upon its introduction, the C/K designation would be removed and not used. From here on, it would become the Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra. GMT400s would still be sold through 2002, mostly as fleet sales, and billed as Chevrolet Silverado Classic and GMC Sierra Classic trucks. Sierra 2500/3500 Crew and Chassis Cabs would be produced through 2000 while the C3500HD would end production in 2002.

The end of the GMT400 and G-Van would also mark the final use of the Chevrolet Small Block V8, it is replaced by the LS-based GM V8 engine series.

Hot Rod Wagon:  Classically Modified 1955 Chevy Nomad

It’s a dream of many hot rod enthusiasts: to have a wicked looking Nomad Wagon. It is the staple of rare but “cool” to modify vehicles and Brian Hill of Hill’s Rod and Custom used his expertise to create this beautiful utility rodder out of his own 1955 model.

If there was one show and actor that helped cement the Nomad for modern hot rodders it was Tim Allen and his show, Home Improvement. That car is even listed as the 19th of the top 50 TV cars by Rod Authority back in 2016. It was owned by Allen and the 1956 Nomad was tied to the main character, Tim Taylor, but canonically the car was the daily driver of his on-screen wife, Jill.

However, it would be the episode titled “Don’t Tell Momma” that would cause every Nomad and Bel Air enthusiasts’ hearts to collectively sink when the car was “crushed” on accident. Fortunately, the stunt car was a four-door Bel Air with a wagon roof added, rear doors welded and smoothed enough for the shot, and crushed on-screen while the real 1956 Nomad wasn’t harmed.

…it’s not a proper looking Nomad if the top isn’t its signature pristine white…

He even pulled the car on set to show it was still around to the live audience for that show’s taping. It would eventually be sold for Ebay’s “Auction for America” on October 4^th, 2001 to benefit victims of the September 11^th attacks just a few weeks earlier.

Fortunately for Hill’s Rod and Custom in Pleasant Hill, CA, this 1955 model wasn’t crushed or destroyed but was still put through a full, frame-off restoration before it was modified. Brian Hill pulled every piece and part off to strip, bang, straighten and finally repaint his in the Lamborghini Orange Pearl. However, it’s not a proper looking Nomad if the top isn’t its signature pristine white for that classic two-tone look.

All the glass was then replaced with new reproduction versions with modern weather-stripping for a noise-free ride. This was done to make sure the Vintage Air heating and air-conditioning system didn’t leak the cool interior air to the Bay Area’s hot atmosphere.

…a 1955 Nomad that’s worthy of television stardom.

That’s even as this Nomad makes its own atmosphere when it arrives. The interior is a fully-custom leather that carefully compliments that Lambo orange and chrome touches throughout. New, but classic gauges complete the classic looks of the Tri-Five dashboard.

Those new gauges are designed to work with the TurnKey Engine Supply LS1 crate engine, a 5.7-liter displacement that makes 410-horsepower and 420-torque to the crank with its 10.25:1 compression. Inside, the rotating assembly is lead by a set of Mahle forged pistons and squeeze fuel and air into cathedral port GM heads.

It’s designed to be installed and ran as it included everything, even the throttle pedal for the LS1 electronic throttle body but its ECM is calibrated with a TurnKey tune so it doesn’t need a GM PATS key. The only change was the addition of “Nomad” script emblems on the engine covers and painting the intake to match the Lambo orange of the body. Its power is then sent to a GM 6L80E six-speed automatic transmission.

We certainly wouldn’t mind being caught in it.

To control sway and pitch as Brian drives his Nomad, a modern set of coilovers were installed up front but the rear retains its leaf spring design. It’s not a race car and you’ll be able to haul more utilitarian loads thanks to the leafs if you desire or need it.

It’s fitted with a set of 17-inch American Racing VN508 Super Nova 5 in a mirror chrome finish and wrapped in Milestar MS932 Sport tires in 205/50R17 front and 225/60R17 rear.

Brian Hill and Hill’s Rod and Custom have certainly designed a 1955 Nomad that’s worthy of television stardom. Thankfully, it doesn’t come with the usual headaches fame brings but instead gives its driver the comforts of modern cars with the looks of a great classic Tri-Five. We certainly wouldn’t mind being caught in it.

Challenging ’69 Charger

J. P. Miller’s Restoration of His 1969 Dodge Charger R/T Super Track Pack

We’re always told about stories of people who finally get their hero car and it often turns out to be so much work it gets abandoned. For J. P. Miller, he knew he had something special once this 1969 Dodge Charger R/T arrived, but it wasn’t ready for anything close to street duty when it did.

“It was a barn find out of Moscow, Idaho,” J. P. Miller began his recollection of when he first heard about this 1969 Charger. “A friend of mine and father of my Goddaughter, who also would end up doing the paintwork, found it in a ‘Penny Saver’ magazine in Spokane, Washington.”

J. P., like a lot of us, was a huge fan of the “Dukes of Hazzard” and its hero car Charger and often seen as a character itself, General Lee. His friend knew he was looking for a 1969 model to match it as J. P. wanted to build a General Lee replica. So, they contacted the owner in Idaho and that’s when the story turned into something more than just a remake of a classic cult car.

“It turned out he was basically holding a silent auction for the car,” said Miller, “so, it totally caught us off guard and basically he have people look at the car and what it was coming with, write their offer on a paper and folded it in an envelope, and then at the end of the week pull the offers out of it and award it to the highest bidder.”

…you won’t find any Bondo on this Charger…

So, Miller went with Price is Right rules and bid $10,001.01 to ensure that he at least was the highest he could predict. At the end of the week, he got a call from an Idaho number to tell him he had won and could pick up the car and all the parts that came with it.

Randy Scheurer then drove a rollback from Spokane to Moscow, Idaho and back with everything on and in it. From there, it was a ten-year process of stripping the car down and restoring it back to what you see before you. It was loaded on to a rotisserie and torn down to its bare chassis. After that, it was media blasted and acid dipped before taking it over to Doug Standerfer of Spokane Valley, Washington for the sheet metal work.

Very extensive sheet metal work as the quarter panels and taillight panel needed to be replaced but the rear window metal work and pillars were able to be repaired by Doug. However, you won’t find any Bondo on this Charger as the metal work included leading for a proper, time-proven repair.

The rear quarter panels and taillight surround all had to be remade and were some of the first stamped sheets from Auto Metal Direct (AMD) for the 1969 Charger. While brand new stamped panels aren’t too hard to find now, back in 2005 they and Year One were the only ones making them and the process was only beginning for AMD.

…these are bumps you must anticipate, and patience, as well as understanding, is required.

Their molds had yet to be tweaked from the car they created their bucks from, and the panels wouldn’t fit correctly right away due to the gauge of metal used wasn’t exactly factory original, either. When you’re this early in the game for a restoration of a car like this, these are bumps you must anticipate, and patience, as well as understanding, is required. J. P. knew the hurry-up-and-wait game would be worth it after researching the car.

In between all the restoration work, Miller decided to dig into the history of this car and found out it was an original R/T Super Track Pack with a 440-cubic-inch V8, four-speed transmission, and radio delete. Someone bought this with the intention of racing it and looking into the engine, which was blown apart from a track thrashing before being parked, it showed.

While J. P. wasn’t the only owner, he did a VIN track and contacted the third owner of the car. Needless to say, the former Air Force serviceman was blown away to know the car was not only still around but in the process of being restored back to its former glory, too. Especially in the state, he showed him at the time.

Yes, you read that correctly. The engine block was in pieces as some time in the 1980s a rod went through it. However, the entire car was numbers matching and that included that original 440 big block Mopar that would have been considered destroyed by other builders.

Miller took it to an engine shop in California that specialized “lost cause blocks.” He took a look at the block and found that, while there was a large hole in it, the webbing was intact and could be repaired. Other than a standard rebuild and putting the block back together again, the engine is factory original.

…far greater, much rarer, and a hero car to lust over in its own right.

At this point, it was now April of 2012, the metal work was done, the paint was factory matched, and the 1969 Dodge Charger R/T Super Track Pack was ready for final assembly. All of the key parts were sourced from Ed Wogulis’ The Mopar Shop in Madera, California while other parts and assembly help was done by Dave La Marche of Concord, California.

The car is as original as you can get, even the wheels are a Mopar set you would find under it, but it does sit on modern Milestar StreetSteel tires with raised white lettering for that proper 1969 street car look with contemporary grip and wear.

From the work J. P. Miller did, this has been one incredible restoration job. It’s possibly one of the best we’ve seen in a long time. While he wanted a General Lee, we feel that he’s come out with something far greater, much rarer, and a hero car to lust over in its own right.

What Is the Every Man Challenge?

The Ultra4 Racing King of the Hammers (KOH) is the off-road experience you can’t miss out on, but there is a need to qualify for it. Fortunately, for those on a tighter budget, the Every Man Challenge is around to let stock and lightly modified rigs race on a similar course as the big one.

How The King of the Hammers Got Started

As cliché as it sounds, KOH started in 2007 with a group of guys lead by Dave Cole and Jeff Knoll who decided to have a race on a Friday in the middle of Means Dry Lake. From the group of 50 to 60 drivers that were sent invites, 12 drivers showed up with rock crawling rigs. They weren’t specialized as we see now, and many were just trucks built for fun and hobby driving. Some rigs just had air shocks and leaf springs, something you don’t see now except maybe in the 4600 Stock Class. Of the 12 racers that showed up, John Reynolds with Randy Slawson co-driving won the first ever KOH.

For years to come, the King of the Hammers was an invite-only event with NO media, spectators, and vendors. Of course, when you make something hard to get, you make more and more people want to join. As the race grew in spectacle and in the spotlight, more and more people wanted to enter the race with their own rigs, including stock and lightly modified vehicles.

The Every Man Challenge

In the middle of 2011, Ultra4 announced that a new event would take place the Monday before the 2012 King of the Hammers—the Smittybilt Every Man Challenge (EMC) now the 4WP Every Man Challenge. This was the opportunity for non-professional drivers to race on the same course as the big event but slightly modified for the smaller tire restrictions.

…it’s not impossible to race a street legal rock crawler and potentially win in Modified Class.

It was originally open to only 100 vehicles and the list was filled before the start of 2012. The entry list has increased over the years along with the addition of 2 more classes in 2014: the Legends Class for older 4400 cars that were not as competitive and a new Spec Class.

Can Someone Really Just Show Up and Run?

When it comes to the EMC at KOH, that’s somewhat how it works. Obviously, you still need to register but you can enter with your street-driven rig and race on a similar course to the Unlimited class in KOH. Doing this in the stock 4600 class is a little more realistic for a street-driven truck or Jeep, but it’s not impossible to race a street legal rock crawler and potentially win in Modified Class.

4600 Stock Class

The Stock class rules are simple—and probably the most restricted at the same time. You can basically run your trail rig as long as it meets the following characteristics: stock OEM frame, factory engine, factory transmission, 35-inch DOT tires, single 2.5-inch diameter shocks per corner and mechanical steering.

If you’re looking to make a better-than-stock rig, there are two classes for you:

4500 Modified Class

Essentially, the 4500 Modified class is the next step up from Stock. It’s limited in what you can do but it’s far more open and budget-friendly than the 4400s. It’s a 37-inch tall DOT tire class that also requires rigs to be steered directly by the driver. That means that there is no hydraulic steering, you’re not moving a valve to turn the tires. You can have a hydro-assist, but the steering wheel must be connected to a steering box that’s connected to the wheels.

…it’s far more brutal than the mileage indicates.

You’re also limited to two shocks per corner that are 2.65-inches in diameter with a stroke of 14-inches. They must also be connected directly to the axle, so you can’t make a cantilever suspension or anything that would give it a mechanical advantage to increase the suspension rate to increase wheel travel.

The biggest cost saver, though, is that the entry must be a production vehicle and the body must resemble an OEM body. There is also a limitation to what you can do to the frame. So, there needs to be something that replicates the cab, bed, doors, fenders, hood, and other body pieces that the original truck or SUV you’re entering as. They can be modified for clearance, but only enough for clearance. You can run any make engine and the only limitation is engine location; The rear of the engine block must be located in front of the furthest forward portion of the driver’s seat. Other than that, there isn’t much else limiting the Modified class.

4800 Legends Class

With the extreme advancement of the 4400 Class, a lot of rigs were made less competitive in a short amount of time. In recognition of that and wanting to give these rigs a place to run, the Legends class was created to allow these rigs to race. These rigs are limited to a two-seater rig with a front-engine, single shock per corner, solid axles, and 37-inch DOT tires. Other than that, there isn’t much limiting the 4800s and they are a call back to the early years of KOH.

This technically makes the 4800s a much easier step up to the 4400 class and the King of the Hammers. Adding a set of longer shocks and bigger tires for that race can make these rigs rather competitive against the 4400s. Many 4800s have been rebuilt to 4400 rules without much modification, thus making them an economical way to go from EMC to KOH. Well, relatively economical considering you’re still building a $300,000 to $500,000-plus vehicle for either class. To date, though, no rig has won the EMC and the KOH in the same week.

It’s A Start

What’s great about the Every Man Challenge, it gives those who aspire to race in the King of the Hammers a place to run and prepare themselves for that big race. Even though it may be shorter than most open desert races, it’s far more brutal than the mileage indicates.

They don’t call it the Hammers for nothing.

What’s even better, anyone can enter. If you’ve got a stock, leaf-spring truck that you drive on the road but want to race it, you have a place in the EMC and the 4600 Stock Class. Even though it is the slowest class, it is the one where you’ll learn the most about Johnson Valley and the rock features they race on.

At the very least, you get a chance to race on a compact version of the course that makes up the King of the Hammers. While having a huge budget is nice, the King of the Hammers and EMC is quite possibly the last race where you can drive your vehicle to the event, race in it, and possibly drive back home if you haven’t completely torn your vehicle to shreds. However, you might want to bring a trailer just in case.

They don’t call it the Hammers for nothing.

What Is Autocross?

Autocross claimed to be the start for anyone looking to get into road racing. Though, when you look at it, it’s just a bunch of cones in a parking lot or a big patch of asphalt. What is autocross and why is it the place road racers should start?

When it comes down to dollar-to-seat time, it’s hard to beat the low cost of autocross. Well, normally low cost, we’ll touch on that later. However, in most cases, if you want the best environment to get a feel for your car and improve your driving skill behind the wheel, it’s going to be your cheapest and relatively safest bet. You don’t even have to have a special car to do it, either, as the car or truck you’re driving now can usually be used. You’ll see people show up in anything from Volkswagen Golfs to Corvettes to S10s. The only special thing you need is a helmet and many organizations will be happy to provide you a loaner one.

To define it, autocross is racing in the same way that time trial and time attack are. You’re not racing wheel-to-wheel but racing for the fastest time in your class and overall. You won’t even be on the course at the same time as another car like you would be on a big race track. You also won’t hit the same speeds, either. That’s why it’s looked at as a lower risk way to get into road racing and build up your skill set behind the wheel.

The course is laid out on a big patch of asphalt or concrete. Cones are set up and it can be a course that loops on itself or be straightforward with no confusing loops. Depends on how your course designer is feeling that weekend. A course can be open or very tight, depending on how fast the sanction has determined for the maximum speed of an autocross. Very rarely does a course allow you to hit speeds over 50-MPH. Most will only allow you to use up to second or third gear, depending on your transmission.

Those cones are also indicators. Two cones standing straight up are gates. Four cones in that same position indicate the start and finish. A cone laying down beside a gate indicates how many times you go through it. A single line of cones in a straight line is a slalom, but if a cone is laying down on either side, the pointed end indicates which side you enter it while no cones indicate you can enter either side.

If you want to be the fastest driver, however, you are going to need to start upgrading your vehicle. The first thing most will tell you is to upgrade to a set of ultra-high-performance tires like the Milestar MS932 XP+. It is the single best initial upgrade you can do to your autocross car because it improves traction, cornering, and braking in one go. From there, you go with your suspension, brakes, reducing weight, and everything else that your rulebook allows for. That’s why autocross starts out cheap but eventually becomes as expensive as any other form of racing, but that’s normal, too.

If you’re entering your first autocross, don’t worry with all of that. Just go, have fun, and learn. Though, if you have your own helmet, bring it. That way, you won’t accidentally bring home the one you borrowed.

What Is Drifting?

When it comes to motorsports, there is nothing quite like drifting. It’s not racing in that you’re trying to complete a course in the fastest time possible. So, what is drifting and what makes it a motorsport, then?

When you first get into racing, you’re taught that you only want a vehicle to exhibit neutral to just a little bit of oversteer. You want to use the throttle to drive you out of the corner and only to add more when you need just a little more rotation. Drifting throws all of that out of the window. Or, at least it seems to do it. What you have, instead, is equal parts skill of the driver and chassis setup prowess of the crew chief.

While the cars of drifting are in an extreme state of oversteer, they are also exhibiting a lot of grip. That may read counterintuitive from what you witness, but if you set up a car too loose (give it a chassis that drives with too much oversteer) you get a car that is absolutely undrivable. Many beginning drivers look for tires that don’t have enough grip or overinflate their tires to reduce grip because their chassis are set up with too much understeer from the factory. If they don’t go beyond the settings from the OEM, their cars won’t ever get the angle they really want. They will continue to fight the car until they change toe, camber, caster, spring rates, and even their dampening settings on their aftermarket shocks.

Once they do, drivers will want tires that have a lot of grip, like the Milestar MS932 XP+. Without that grip, the car will over-rotate and probably spin out. Once they get beyond that level, they will then start to drive in tandem with another car on the track. There are two goals in a drifting competition and it depends on if you’re leading or following.

All through a drifting competition, you are judged by three to five judges (depends on the sanctioning body). During qualifying, to place you in a Top 16 or Top 32 format, you will be judged on your line, angle, and style. Once placed and going into tandem, each driver is judged by that panel with two tandem runs. The drivers will swap from lead and follow on the two runs. For example, driver A will lead, and driver B will follow on run one. Once that run is done, they swap with B leading and A following.

If following (or chasing), your goal is to stay as close as possible to the lead driver while also mimicking that driver’s lines while drifting. If you’re leading, your goal is to drive with as much angle as possible while getting close to clipping points and zones without interfering with your line. If you hit the wall but your line stays the same, you won’t be judged against and the following car also must mimic that. If both drivers do too good (or both do equally bad), there will be a full run usually called a One More Time. Depending on the sanctioning body, you may have two, three, or as many as needed to determine a winner.

Speed is not always criteria but trying to finish the course in the fastest time isn’t the goal of drifting. Instead, the goal is to simply drive better than your competitor in the eyes of the judges. Therefore, big angle kits, sophisticated shock design, and tires with plenty of grip are all a big part of professional drifting. If you can drive your car with a bigger angle, on a better line, and gap your follow driver while also being able to keep up with your lead, you’re probably going to win. That’s not always the case, though, as with all this pushing to the limits, things will break. Even the best driver with all the money in the pits will lose thanks to a $0.30 part. However, you won’t know that until you go out and drive.

The History of Headlamps

When it gets too dark out, we just flip a switch and beam of light shoots forward to illuminate our drive. We take it for granted, but where did the original headlamp come from?

When our forefathers first created the automobile, a lot of the technology was based on what we knew from horse carriages. They were simple carriage lamps lit by a wick coming out of an oil bucket. These lights proved to not be suitable for the speeds even these automobiles could achieve. However, they were the only types of lights that could withstand wind and rain.

The first electric headlamp was built in the 1898 Columbia Electric Car and was optional. Even though it was possible to light an electric lamp, filament life and creating a power source small enough and strong enough was the limiting factor on the widespread use of electric lights. It wouldn’t be until 1908 that electric headlamps would become standard equipment, in which the Peerless made standard on all their automobiles.

The first “dippable” lights, where you can lower the beam angle to not blind a driver approaching you, came in 1915 through the Guide Lamp Company. However, you had to get out of the car and lower them. A couple of years later, Cadillac introduced a system that allowed the driver to lower the lights with a lever instead. It wouldn’t be until 1924 when the Bilux bulb was introduced that had a filament for both high and low beams. Guide Lamp also created a similar design called the “Duplo” but included a “dip switch,” a foot-operated electrical switch to allow the dimming to be done on the floor. Packards from 1933 to 1934 would have three beams: “country passing” as their main beam, “country driving” as a middle beam, and “city driving” for the lowest beam.

From 1940 and onward, the seven-inch round sealed-beam headlamp (H6024) was required per side here in the US. This stayed in place until just after 1968, when the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) was created and the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) was introduced. With it, came new rules that all states had to follow including the new rules based on the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) lighting standards were adopted in whole or in part. This meant that the US was finally allowed to utilize the halogen bulb whereas the Europeans were utilizing this far earlier.

This also now meant that two sizes were allowed per vehicle – two seven-inch round or four 5.75-inch round headlamps (H5006). In 1974, there was a petition for allowing four-headlamp rectangular sealed beams (the 4×6.5, H4651) and 1976 allowed for single 142×200 per side headlamp (H6054). Then, in 1978, headlamp intensity laws were changed from the requirement of 75,000-candela (cd) to 150,000-cd and all but guaranteed the use of halogen from that point on. Halogen bulbs also allowed for the use of plastic lenses rather than glass, as the halogen lamp with its tungsten filament was already contained in an inner, gas-filled glass bulb.

In 1983, the NHTSA approved the first standardized replaceable halogen bulb, the 9004, which allowed for more aerodynamic, composite headlamps in the US starting in 1984. The 9005 and 9006 were introduced in 1987 and allowed for even more headlamp designs and materials. This also allowed for manufacturers to design headlamps that were aerodynamic from the start and not require flip-out headlamps. Those types of headlamps were originally introduced in 1936 with the Cord 810/812. Most hidden headlamps used vacuum-operated servos with reservoirs, but there were also electric variants and even some mechanical versions that used lever-operated linkages like on the Saab Sonett III. The last mass-produced cars with flip-out headlamps were the 2004 C5 Corvette and 2004 Lotus Esprit.

If it weren’t for the headlamp, we wouldn’t be able to see very far down the road in our modern cars, if at all. We are starting to see some improvements in modern light technology that allow us to have lights barely the size of our hands yet light up the road far brighter than the original 1898 headlight could have ever produced. Makes you wonder what’s coming up next.

The In-N-Out Hot Rod 70th Celebration

There is no better way to describe the California hot rod culture than cruising out in your custom roadster and getting some In-N-Out burgers. However, in order to celebrate the 70th Anniversary of both In-N-Out and Hot Rod Magazine, the only place big enough was the home of the NHRA. This is the In-N-Out Burger and Hot Rod Magazine 70th Anniversary Celebration at Auto Club Raceway in Pomona, CA.

It’s burgers, it’s burnouts, it’s classic and historic drag cars, it’s the 70th Anniversary of two California icons: In-N-Out Burger and Hot Rod Magazine. It’s amazing to think that both are reaching closer and closer to 75 years in existence. Both companies were created in 1948, with the burgers frying for the first time on October 22, 1948 by Harry and Esther Snyder, and the first edition of Hot Rod Magazine flying off the shelf in January of 1948 with Robert Petersen in charge. Hot Rod is now a part of Discovery but In-N-Out is still headed by Lynsi Snyder with 342 locations in the West of the US as well as Texas and Utah.

What a celebration it was, too. There were so many amazing hot rods, roadsters, and classic custom cars packed on the paved lot beside Auto Club Raceway’s drag strip. From the tally, over 2,200 hot rods and race cars showed up to celebrate. Through the day, many of these cars would take runs down that strip, too. Nostalgia Funny Cars and classic drag cars would fire up and blast down for fun. No trophies, just a fun run in a 200+ MPH funny car. Old Hot Rod feature cars were displayed under the tent while classic music from the era was played live on the main stage.

At sunset, a dozen of those cars would gather in the pits for Cracklefest, where those open-header drag cars would fire up and run to delight the aural senses for just a few minutes. However, In-N-Out would serve those fresh burgers that have made them famous for those 70 years all day long.

However, the show cars that arrived were some of the most spectacular outside of the Grand National Roadster Show. 40s Fords, 50s Chevys, 60s Dodges and everything in between came down to show off. It was restorations, resto-rods, rats, lowriders and customs. This was one show that wasn’t going to disappoint as it had something for everyone in attendance.

This might have been a once-in-a-lifetime celebration, too. Many of these classic and historic Hot Rod feature owners and getting up there in age. This may be the only time all these people would have gathered in one place to celebrate the culture they helped influence and create for the generations after them. Tell the stories of their legacy before they move on from their mortal coil.

The saying, “if you missed this, you missed out” gets tossed around by journalists covering an event like Halloween candy. However, this one will most likely ring true. While it’s sad to think about, it’s not what should be. These men and women were celebrated for who they are, what they created, and with their stories that will live on for generations longer. There’s nothing sad about that, it’s worth the massive party that In-N-Out and Hot Rod created.

Mike Dusold Wins OUSCI 2018

Mike DuSold and his warbird inspired 1967 Chevrolet Camaro, known as “Maiden Texas,” takes the overall of the 2018 Optima Ultimate Street Car Invitational (OUSCI). Only nine points separated him and Austin Barnes to make this a very exciting edition of the OUSCI.

The OUSCI is the final event of the Ultimate Street Car Association (USCA) series. Only those who have won events in the 2018 season or get invited during the SEMA Show can participate in this event. However, the event goes very similar to how their normal events run. There is the Design and Engineering section, where judges look over your car for streetablility (including a light and horn check) and the engineering involved with your vehicle. The Autocross is self-explanatory, but the Road Rally is done on the open road to see if your vehicle could really drive like you say it can.

The Speed/Stop and the Hot Lap Challenge usually ends the final day. Speed/Stop requires you to run a very basic course that’s designed primarily for straight-line speed and working your brakes and tires to their limit. The Hot Lap Challenge is a time trial session run on a road course where the event takes place. For the OUSCI, this was Las Vegas Motor Speedway’s Proving Grounds outside of the oval track it’s best known for.

To determine the winner of the event, each finishing position gets assigned points with a maximum of 100 points up for grabs in each. This means you don’t have to win every challenge and the winner is usually the one who performs the best across the board. You could win three events, fall very short in one, and lose as Austin Barnes did this year. Despite his 2010 Dodge Viper winning the Hot Lap Challenge, the Speed/Stop Challenge, finishing the Road Rally, and taking second in the Autocross, his 84-point score in Design and Engineering resulted in him being nine-points shy of taking the overall victory.

Consistency was the key to Mike DuSold’s victory with Maiden Texas. He and his 67 Camaro took top honors in the Design and Engineering section, but finished sixth in Hot Laps, third in Autocross, second in Speed/Stop, and was able to finish the Road Rally to Shelby America to get 492-points total for the event. Last year’s champion, Ken Thwaits and his 2006 Mitsubishi Evolution took home third overall. Danny Pop, the favorite to place high in any USCA event he drives at, placed fourth in his 2003 Corvette Z06.

When it comes to bookending SEMA Week, you can’t find a better way to do it than finding out how many of those SEMA Show cars can run and drive. That’s the idea behind the OUSCI, but it’s been USCA regulars that have taken the win every time. They are tried and tested throughout the year and they continue to prove that the ultimate street car should be everything, including driveable.

The Barrett-Jackson Auctions

If you’re looking for that rare collector car or classic hot rod, you can’t beat the Barrett-Jackson Auctions. What’s more is that you don’t even have to have a collector car to sell at one of their events.

Originally, Russ Jackson and Tom Barrett met over Barrett’s 1933 Cadillac V16 Town Car in Scottsdale, Arizona. It wasn’t about starting a classic car auction or anything, it was just that Cadillac. They hit it off well and then presented a car show for fund-raising in Scottsdale in 1967 called the “Fiesta de Los Autos Elegantes.” Their first official auction was in December of 1971, where the two jointly put on a classic car auction in which they got notoriety for selling two Mercedes-Benz 770K Phaetons that were used by Adolf Hitler’s staff. One of the two set a new auction record and sold for $153,200 and the Barrett-Jackson Auction was born.

Craig Jackson, Russ’ son, took over in 1995, just after Russ died in 1993. On that same year, the auctions began showing live on Speed Channel and internet bidding was allowed for the first time. Just after Tom Barrett died in 2004, the show was renamed to the Barret-Jackson Collector Car Auctions in 2005. From there, the shows have visited Las Vegas, Orange County in California, Reno, Palm Beach, and Uncasville, Connecticut.

Collector cars are always coming across the block, but this is where charities like to sell vehicles for fund-raising, much like how Tom and Russ originally started in 1967. During the 2018 Scottsdale Auction, 10 vehicles were sold for charity and reached $102-million. Another historic first was when Former US President George W. Bush joined in the sale of the first production 2018 Chevrolet Corvette Carbon 65 Edition, a car that sold for $1.4-million during that same show to benefit The George W. Bush Presidential Center’s Military Service Initiative.

While it is a collector car auction, it is still an auction open to selling all types of vehicles like trucks, planes, boats, engines, motorcycles, and even memorabilia. You could sell your own car there, it’s not closed off to just celebrities or cars with historic value. This means cars can range from a Ford Crown Victoria with about 12,000-miles on the odometer to prototype cars that were never produced to a 1926 Ford Model T and everything in between. This also means that these auctions are more than just car sales, they can be the best place to find classic and modified cars to just look at and enjoy for what they are.

That’s what makes a Barrett-Jackson Auction fun for those who don’t have the six- or seven-figure budget to bid on cars. There is more going on besides the selling of classic or collector vehicles. There are vendors, displays, driving exhibitions, and more going on that you wonder if there’s really an auction going on. That is until you hear the cheers and hammer drop after a massive sale.

If you’re in Las Vegas from September 27 to 29 or in Scottsdale, Arizona from January 12 to 20, 2019, just go to the Barrett-Jackson Auction and look around. It’s essentially a car show that happens to have an auction going on at the same time.

Milestar Tires Introduces the MS932 XP+:
An Ultra-High Performance
All-Season Tire

Summer may be gone, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have high-traction in these cold months. Milestar Tires brings a new Ultra-High Performance All-Season Passenger tire with the MS932 XP+.

It seems like a case of “have your cake and eat it, too,” but tire technology has progressed to the point where having an all-season tire isn’t a performance detriment. With more sedans gaining exciting, sporty variants and customers not looking for the inconvenience of changing wheels and tires during season changes, tire manufacturers have been developing tires that can stick but still carry a mud and snow rating. Milestar is no exception and introduces the MS932 XP+.

It all optimizes from the MS932 Sport and puts it into a new silica-infused rubber polymer. Injecting silica allows the rubber polymer to remain flexible under nearly all temperatures. To keep it sporty in both winter and wet conditions, the inside tread pattern is optimized to move water towards the outside tire edges. However, the wide ribs and large shoulder tread blocks retain dry traction in summer conditions. The wide grooves help reduce hydroplaning by giving water channels to flow into.

The 380AA rated rubber compound and plies under the tread allow it to retain a W-speed rating to match OE performance. With all of this performance, the MS932 XP+ is a comfortable tire to drive daily with low noise and great fuel efficiency numbers. Even so, it’s a long-lasting tire with a 40-thousand-mile limited warranty. The MS932 XP+ comes in popular performance sizes in 18, 19, 20, and 22-inch wheel diameters, so nearly every performance car will have a tire for them.

If you’re looking for a tire for your high-performance sedan, Milestar Tires has a new tire for you. The MS932 XP+ gives you the all-season performance with mud and snow rating without degrading dry performance. Find your local tire dealer and ask for a set of Milestar MS932 XP+ before winter hits in full.

A C10 Across All Ages

Mike Hegarty’s 1971 Chevrolet C10

Found in a town not far from where Mike Hegarty lives was a 1971 Chevrolet C10. From its side of the road beginnings, this C10 has become an OEM Plus conversion using all original GM parts.

When Mike Hegarty took possession of the ’71 C10, the fenders were, strangely, removed. There was no crash damage that he could find and, to make matters worse, they were placed in the bed face down. You might not think that would be a big deal, but it used to have a camper on it with a carpet in the floor. At some point before placing the fenders there, that camper was pulled off. Rainwater collected in the carpet and ruined the front fenders.

Mike isn’t one for reproduction stuff. “I like to use all original GM stuff,” Mike admits, “I’m big reproduction fan.” He accounts that to fit and finish issues he’s had in the past. He found a set of original C10 fenders and began to improve many of the parts on the truck. In a way, he kind of had to as it was a strangely built truck to begin with. It had manual front disc brakes, a manual steering box, a one-ton four-speed transmission, a manual hand throttle (like tow truck chassis had), a rubber one-piece floor mat, no chrome trim, factory painted bumpers, factory air conditioning, and a 3.08:1 rear end with posi-traction. It was an oddball of a truck and the only two options listed on the body tag were for the factory air and the posi-traction. Otherwise, it was no frills or thrills from the factory floor.

To make it look nicer, Mike searched for improved GM factory parts to replace the boring parts. Again, nothing on this truck is reproduction GM parts. These are all New Old Stock or NOS. The grille, taillights, tailgate trim, tailgate spat, bumpers front and rear, all of it was original from the General from the 1970s. Originally, he was putting it back together to eventually sell as that is something he does and did with his dad, Ed, for many years at Deal Auto Wreckers.

They would get GM cars and take parts off optioned-out junked cars and resell them. Keep in mind, this was also during a time when numbers matching didn’t mean anything. As he was putting this C10 back together, Mike started to like its character and continued to improve it with all the original GM parts he could find. He settled with a built Turbo 400 from Broadway Automotive & Transmission in Oakland, CA and was happy with it.

That is until the camshaft of the original 350-cu.in. four-bolt truck engine ground itself flat thanks to low-zinc, non-additive oil. So, out went that old engine and in went a 1969 dated 350-cu.in. Small Block Chevy with a four-bolt main. The heads were over-the-parts-counter GM, road race style angled plug heads made for ripping above 4500-RPM. It also features a 69 to 70 Z/28 high-rise intake manifold with a 780-CFM Holley 4053 DZ carburetor with the matching factory 69 Z/28 air cleaner. He even installed the big pulley alternator that the big-horsepower GM engines came with.

2.5-inch Corvette “Ram Horn” manifolds were installed but required some clearance massaging at the top of the frame rail to fit. While parts of the bracketry had to also be modified, the original A/C system is still installed. “When you open the hood,” says Mike, “I wanted it to look like the entire engine was stolen out of a 1969 Camaro Z/28.” That also means the steering and brakes were replaced with original GM power parts for a much easier drive. He’s also installed all the optional gauges you could originally get save for the original Speed Warning speedometer. “It’s a loaded option truck that I’ve taken off other trucks,” says Mike, “so none of it is reproduction.”

There are only a few non-GM parts on the truck but the part that Mike admits people were more impressed with, even with all the original GM option parts, is the gas cap. Between the cab and the bed is a four-inch wide panel and the gas cap is hidden and flush mounted into that panel. “When you look at the bed,” says Mike, “It looks like a stock truck other than the top trim panel and that’s where the gas cap is.” The only other part that’s not GM but are 100-percent original are the Halibrand 15×8.5 wheels with Milestar Streetsteel tires in 275/60R15. The knock-off caps are just original Halibrand caps to cover the lug nuts. The final bit of non-factory upgrade parts is the Early Classic Enterprises suspension kit to give it a lower, but still usable stance and improved handling, especially thanks to the addition of the adjustable Super Track Bar Kit to help center the rear end.

Before we leave you, there is are two interesting stories about the paint and scallops on the sides of the C10. It’s a factory GM white for the C10 but was shot by “The Garbage Man,” a buddy of Mike’s not far from where he lives. “I’m not kidding,” he laughed, “It was painted in the nastiest little garage you could ever imagine.” His nephew, who is also a vehicle painter over at Eastbay Speed and Custom in Concord, CA, went with Mike to pick up the truck when it was done. He was used to clean body shops and pristine equipment before this. When they arrived at the garage, he asked where it was painted when the Garbage Man said, “It was painted in here.” His nephew was flabbergasted and now looks up to him.

Finally, before taking the truck home and before Mike’s nephew met his new painting hero, he wanted to put scallops on the sides of the truck. He knew he wanted them to match the blue of the factory interior, so he called up a local scallop artist who quoted him an astronomical price. He was good, but not that good. So, Mike and the Garbage Man laid some stripe tape down, got it to where they wanted it, and painted the scallops on the sides of the C10.

While there is a movement in the modern vehicle building world for “OEM Plus” builds, where high-end option parts are installed on a vehicle, the idea is to make it better than it originally was with factory parts. Mike Hegarty’s 1971 C10 shows that this method can also be applied to classic American vehicles, though it may take a little more time, research, and reach. The results are just as impressive in the end, too.

All Surfaces, All Traction

What Is an All-Terrain Tire?

Want a tire that gives you traction no matter where you are? Well, that doesn’t exist but there is a tire that gives you great all-around traction with some compromises. That tire is the All-Terrain – or AT – tire, which used to be a single category until recently. We’ll go over the most common versions of the AT in this story.

Unlike the MT tire, the All-Terrain is a compromise between on-road comfort and off-road capability. AT tires don’t generally excel in either area but work at their best in either. They feature smaller tread blocks for the best on-road noise and wet surface grip, but the blocks are still large and aggressive enough to be used in dirt and light rock off-road conditions. However, there has been a change in how an AT tire is designed and now there are two types of tire designs within the AT tire class. Each type of AT gets closer to the MT design.

The classic AT, like the Patagonia A/T W, is designed with more on-road performance than off. Some will call this an AP (All-Purpose) or Trail type All-Terrain but there is a specific All-Purpose tire category. So, calling an AT an AP tire is technically wrong. This is mostly because it’s capable of going off-road, but its smaller tread blocks and grooves allow mud to “stick” to the tire more. This reduces traction in that condition, but the smaller tread and harder tread compound mean that it won’t do well in rock crawling conditions.

The tread also doesn’t travel down into the sidewall and it features fewer belts than the MT tire. The sidewall ply and bead design will also only allow for normal tire pressures of 30-PSI and above. When people think of “truck tires,” like what you’d see on mid- and full-size pickup trucks and SUVs, this tire design is what they will picture. It’s perfect for trucks and SUVs that don’t see much off-road action, but if it does, it’s only going to be down a dirt road.

The next step in the AT ladder is the AT-X or AT-R tire. This type features larger blocks than the standard AT and you can see this in the Patagonia A/T R. The tread blocks are much more aggressive and somewhat larger, and the sidewall of an AT-X has some tread, but not to the extent of a full MT tire. It also features more siping than an MT, but not as much as the AT. Again, the siping is there to reduce squirm and improve wet road surface traction by giving water an evacuation path. The AT-R or AT-X type All-Terrain tire is perfect for vehicles that see more off-road surfaces but still travel mainly on surface streets. It’s probably not going to work well as a rock crawler or dune tire, but you’ll be able to get to your favorite off-road and camping spots with no issues.

What both types of AT tires feature is reduced road noise. This is an integral feature of any tire that has smaller tread blocks and more grooves and sipes. When the tread rotates onto the road surface, it compresses the air. That loads up air like a spring and when it escapes, it does so at Mach speeds from the energy it gains from being compressed. If the air has a path or pocket to escape to, it reduces that compression and potential energy. That slows down the air’s speed and you no longer hear the howl as you do of an MT tire.

The AT tire is the best compromise of on-road manners and off-road capability. You’re not going to be crawling up Jackhammer with either AT tire, but you’ll produce less noise than the MT tire. You’ll be able to get to a spot where you can watch your favorite Ultra4 racer and drive home with more wet surface traction than the mud tire. If you want more off-road traction, then the AT-R or AT-X will be a better choice. You’ll get a more aggressive look than the AT and better performance off the asphalt, too. However, if you need absolute off-road traction, then you’ll have to consider something more aggressive.

High School Sweetheart:
A ’70 Chevelle to Remember

When Mike Hegarty was just 17 years old in 1981, he bought a $1000 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle that he was going to flip for his friend, Bob. However, after driving it, he called his buddy to tell him he had good news and bad.

“The good news,” Mike said, “is that I’m in love.” His buddy, not sure what Mike was on about, asked him what the bad news was. “It’s with this car you’re supposed to be buying and you’re not getting it,” he laughed. Bob, though sad was very understandable about the situation. Even at just 11 years old, a 1970 Chevelle was still too hard to pass up. It was a car Mike could never truly part with considering he’s had it for 37 years now.

It’s not the perfect Chevelle, mind. “The engine numbers don’t match,” admits Mike, “but any car that was designed from the factory to beat on wouldn’t be.” His car has even had several engines, transmissions, and rear ends changed two or three times since he’s owned it. “I’ve always treated the car like it was meant to be,” he continued, “It’s a hot rod. I can leave the car sit for a year, get in it and drive it a mile and start side-stepping the clutch and driving it hard.”

That wasn’t its only imperfections. The paint was lacquer checked, also known as crows’ feet, where it starts to crack due to weather exposure. “About two-thirds of the paint is still original with spotting here or there to fix it,” he says. Ironically, when he bought it, a car would have been sanded back down and resprayed to get rid of it, “now, the world has changed, and this look is desirable. It doesn’t need a paint job,” Mike laughed.

The engine currently in it is a 1973 454-cu.in. Big Block Chevy V8, but not much had been done to it. It came out of an old motorhome that his Uncle John had and ran very strong. The motorhome was also the tow vehicle for the Bonneville race car they owned. It was tough enough to outlast the body panels that were slowly being eaten away by the salt. So, when they finally rotted away, Mike pulled that hard running 454 out and put it into his Chevelle.

It still has the four-speed M21 Muncie, but now has a bolt-on Gear Vendors overdrive unit sending power to the rear end that was installed by Broadway Automotive & Transmission in Oakland, CA. “It’s getting tired now,” says Mike, “it’s starting to get a little grey smoke when I start it up in the morning.” The plan is to replace it with a new Chevy Big Block of some sort.

The transmission tunnel had to be modified due to the overdrive unit, so it and the hump in the seats were modified for its fitment. That’s not to say it’s not improved upon. Much like his C-10, this 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle would get option parts from wrecked classics from his dad’s, Ed Hegarty, wrecking yard – Deal Auto Wreckers. For many, many years, his dad, known as “The Deal Father,” and this yard were the source for classic GM and other vintage car parts. He was also a member of the Bonneville 200MPH Club with his partner, Dave Dozier in the Chrysler flat-eight powered Dozier and Hegarty Streamliner. It had a top speed of 233-MPH and went 300-plus-MPH in 1994, the first-ever Hemi-crate engine steamliners to do so.

His Chrysler connections didn’t stop there, either. From 1996 to 2001, Ed supplied Plymouth “Hemi” ‘Cuda Convertibles for the CBS TV show, Nash Bridges. They weren’t the star cars but were the dummy and stunt cars that would get torn up. A few were even six-cylinder powered versions. Probably the prized cars in his collection, however, were the Grand National Roadster Show America’s Most Beautiful Roadster (AMBR) winning “Deuceari,” a Ferrari 330-powered 1932 Ford highboy and the 1940 Dick Bertolucci/Buddy Ohanesian built 1940 Mercury. A ’40 Mercury convertible sedan turned with a custom hardtop in the 1950s. Sadly, Ed passed away in December of 2012 and Deal Auto Wreckers closed permanently not many years after.

Going back to the Chevelle, the suspension is still the stock suspension as from factory, with only wearing parts replaced not long ago. “Just a year ago,” Mike admitted, “I replaced the worn-out shocks, brakes pads and shoes, and wheel cylinders.” It has “OEM Plus” modifications, just like his C10 but from other GM cars. The seat is a recovered Strato Bench seat, a bench that has a folding center armrest, pulled from a mid-size GM car. Though, it had to have its tunnel reshaped to also fit the overdrive unit just like the transmission tunnel in the floor. The Chevelle also has power windows and brakes and even features the fiber optic headlight monitors on the fenders. The wheels, though, are Halibrands in 15×7 and 15×8 with simulated “knock off” center caps wrapped in classic looking Milestar Streetsteel tires in 245/60 front and 275/60R15 rear.

If you’re surprised by the lack of hot, over-the-top parts, you’re in short company. “You know,” says Mike, “not every car needs to be a show car or even a hot rod.” We can’t help but agree after looking at both of his examples. This 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle is a great example of a car that’s cool just for how original GM it is. Sure, it’s modified but it’s all parts that were available from GM for the Chevelle or any of their other mid-sized cars. Working with factory parts, even NOS parts, means you are getting factory fit and quality. It’s a great lesson on how to build a hot rod without breaking the bank and building with overly expensive and custom parts.

Max Traction

What Is a Mud Terrain Tire?

When you think of the ultimate off-road machine, you probably imagine it having Mud Terrain – or MT – tires. What makes an MT such a specific tire? We’ll answer that today.

A Mud Terrain tire, like the Milestar Patagonia M/T, is designed for extreme off-road terrain. Despite its name, the MT is used in more than just muddy conditions. The focus of this tire type is debris ejection, be it mud or stones. Clearing out the grooves naturally with tire rotation allows the tread block leading edge to grab the next portion of the surface and “claw” through it. So, the grooves act sort of like a scoop. Otherwise, the grooves fill up and the tire loses traction.

However, an innovation made by Mickey Thompson in the 1960s and featured on nearly every MT tire since is the sidewall tread. Allowing the tread to continue down the sidewall of the tire gives the MT another area for traction in rocky and silty sand conditions. When aired down, the MT’s sidewall tread also helps to increase the tread width as the tires flatten out under vehicle weight.

Because it’s made to be aired down, the MT tires carcass is also designed much differently than a regular street tire like the Milestar Grantland. It typically features more belts to deal with the additional stress airing down creates on the sidewalls. Those belts are also designed to flex despite adding more of them. The beads are also designed to hold on to the rim at lower pressures, usually down to about 20-PSI before needing beadlocks. However, that’s not true for all MT tires. Some can go lower, some can’t go that low without a beadlock. Again, it’s up to the design so always follow the recommendations and warnings from your tire.

One of the biggest down falls of the MT tire is noise. Large tread blocks compress air into the ground, putting it under extreme pressure at the microscopic level. When the tread rotates, that highly compressed air shoots out at Mach speeds and creates the howling noise that’s typical of a very aggressive and blocky tread pattern. The other disadvantage to those large tread blocks is squirm, traction in wet road conditions, and rubber compound life.

Squirm is the movement of the tread on the road surface as the tire drives down the road. Because of its large size, the large lugs will squirm more and create heat. That heat travels through the lugs to spots where it can’t cool off and creates hot spots. The combination of squirm and hot spots creates weaknesses in the lug and can cause chunking. Squirm is typically worse on the steering axle than the drive axle, but the drive axle can still see some squirm as you accelerate on changing road conditions.

Despite its great off-road traction, wet asphalt or concrete surfaces will be its weakest points. Those large tread blocks with no grooves have a reduced amount of water removal. While the water can travel around the blocks, the blocks contacting the surface is trying to squish down water that’s between it and the road surface. Since the water is a nearly incompressible fluid, the tread rides above the surface. This is hydroplaning, which reduces traction to zero because the rubber can no longer form with the road, which is what creates grip.

A tire’s rubber compound, which arbitrarily describes the softness or hardness of rubber in tires, can also increase grip if its softer. Many MT tires are softer than their road cousins due to the requirement of traction in sand and rocks. That also means that a MT tire won’t always last as long as regular road tires. Not always, but a majority will not.

However, modern MT tires like the Patagonia M/T are designed with mixed surfaces in mind. So, while the tread blocks are still larger than a standard road tire, they feature additional grooves and purpose made sipes. The sipes allow the tread to move in smaller sizes, reducing the squirm when compared to a fully solid tread lug. The combination of grooves and sipes also helps in removing water so the tread can grip on wet asphalt and concrete roads. They also help reduce road noise by giving air an escape route before being compressed into the road.

Do you need a MT tire? Maybe. Maybe not. The only way to answer that is to ask yourself this question. “Where am I using my vehicle the most?” If you’re mostly running on surface streets with little to no off-road use, then you don’t need a MT tire. If you’re response is the opposite, how often are you on those off-road conditions and can you deal with more road noise produced by those tires? If you just want a tire that looks cool and don’t care about noise and wet surface traction, you can’t beat the aggressive looks of the MT but there still might be a tire right for you that isn’t a MT.

Shocking Results

The Shock Absorber Theory

On-road or off, your shock absorbers control how your ride feels and behaves while in the dunes or on track pulling high-g’s. For this first article, we’ll look at the basic idea of shocks, talk about the twin-tube and mono-tube varieties, and how external shock adjusting works.

The damper is probably better known to most people as a shock absorber or simply a shock. It is a device used to control the rate of pitch and roll of a vehicle. It also controls the rate of motion of a spring inbound (also called bump in racing or jounce in engineering terms) and rebound (also called droop in racing). Without them, your vehicle would just flop around as the springs would have no control and react to not only the road but also itself as it oscillates.

Think of those slow-motion videos of a valvetrain as the cams open and close the valves. Since those valve springs have no dampening control, they bounce and even cause “valve float.” That’s a topic for another day, but just know the same thing could happen in your suspension if you didn’t have shocks.

BASIC DAMPER DESIGN

Inside the tubes that make up your shocks is a shaft with a disc connected to the end of it. This is the piston and it has a stack of shims on top of openings cut or molded into the piston. This in combination of flowing through hydraulic oil is how your shocks dampen the springs movements. It sounds simple enough, but there is far more going on than you probably still realize.

THE HOLES AND SHIM STACKS

First, let’s start with the piston design itself. If you’re into RC car racing, you are familiar with how the holes in those pistons control how fast or slow the piston flows through that fluid. The amount and size of those holes partially determine the damping rate. Next are those shim stacks, with a set on top and on the bottom of the piston to further control bound and rebound independently.

The thickness and amount of those shims will further increase or decrease the damping rate on each side of the piston. That’s also why those holes are enlarged and staggered at the face of each side of it. This is so the fluid can flow around the opposite stack, though the piston, and then on to the stack that controls bound or rebound.

DIGRESSIVE AND LINEAR PISTONS IN SHOCK ABSORBERS

The piston face can further control the dampening rate by using a digressive or linear face design. A linear face design is flat and the shim stack acts without any further changes in the reactive speed of the stack. A digressive face piston is dished to allow for preloading of the shim stack to change the dampening rate during slow damper shaft speeds.

To explain shaft speed, think of your vehicle diving down and returning to normal during a stop versus hitting a set of quick bumps in the road. The piston shaft is moving at a slow rate during stopping while it moves quickly during bumps because it’s moving more in a shorter amount of time. That preloading of the stack delays its opening and increases the dampening force during those low shaft speeds. A shock absorber with this type of piston makes it a speed-dependent dampener and a piston can be linear on both sides, digressive on both sides, or digressive and linear on each side. How that’s done is determined by testing on a shock dyno and even driver input for motorsports.

BAD GAS

Now, if you were paying attention in physics class while in high-school or even college if you went, you probably start to see an issue with the piston moving through that fluid. It creates a high-pressure side and a low-pressure side. As the piston moves through the fluid, the “top side” (the side with an inactive shim stack) must force its way through and creates an area of high-pressure. If it was a gas, it would move somewhat freer but wouldn’t act like a good damper.

However, that’s not the issue. The side the piston shim stack is acting on creates a low-pressure side. If you’ve ever boiled water at sea level and at high-altitude, you know that water boils faster at higher altitude because the atmospheric pressure is lower. The exact same thing happens in your dampers.

This is the primary cause of aeration; the shock oil degasses due to low-pressure pulling gas out of solution (also known as vacuum degasification) and even begins to boil the oil on the “bottom side” of the piston as the shock heats up. These gasses cause a feeling of reduced dampening because gas is compressible whereas a fluid is non-compressible.

NON-COMPRESSIBLE FLUID

The fluid being non-compressible is the whole reason a shock works while gas being compressible is the reason why air ride suspensions work. Gasses create a spring force when compressed and are how and why a suspension airbag works in place of a spring. However, you don’t want that in a shock.

You want a fluid that is non-compressible, however, you also want something that will allow the piston to flow through itself but won’t entirely stop it when the rate changes. That’s why a non-Newtonian Fluid like oobleck, for example, wouldn’t work. You could use simple friction and early dampers were designed that way (like the Andre Hartford design), it doesn’t dampen as well as oil does. That’s why a fluid like shock oil has been used in dampers since 1907 and we must give thanks to Maurice Houdaille for its invention.

GOOD GAS

So, how do you prevent the shock absorber fluid from boiling or degassing if it’s our only choice? Simple, by maintaining a constant pressure on both sides of the piston. That doesn’t sound possible, does it. Fortunately, it is by using nitrogen gas to create constant pressure. While you don’t want a gas as your dampening fluid, you do want it to keep the fluid pressure in the damper constant by utilizing its natural spring force.

This natural spring force also allows fluid to react as the piston travels through it. It gives it space while keeping the pressure equal on both sides of the piston. Even though there are holes in the piston, the fluid will still displace until the shims open or it hydrolocks and, just like when your engine does it, that condition can cause catastrophic damage to the damper.

Even so, it is still possible to hydrolock during high shaft speeds and why your vehicle feel like there is a solid block instead of a spring on certain bumps. That can also be solved in piston design with extra holes (like you see on King Racing Off-Road Shocks) or with shim designs that allow fluid to pass (like what’s used by Eibach).

GASSING PRESSURE IN A TWIN-TUBE VS. MONO-TUBE

A twin-tube damper, which uses a tube within a tube design, does mix the nitrogen with the oil, but because it’s at a low-pressure and its molecule is larger than oxygen, so it doesn’t fully mix (or gets dissolved into solution, as they say in science) with the shock oil. It still does, but the amount is small enough to not be an issue for twin-tube dampers. It also has the benefit of being inert, reducing fire risk, and cheaper than other inert gasses as you can pull nitrogen out of the air over argon.

The working cylinder, as the name implies, is where the piston and shock oil work. The outer cylinder, the one you see and touch as you install your dampers, is where the excess oil goes and where the nitrogen lives. A valve between the working cylinder and the outer cylinder allows fluid to flow between them and works as another dampening force control valve.

In a mono-tube design, the body is the working cylinder and that’s it. However, the nitrogen gas is separated by a floating piston that also has a seal to keep the gas contained above that piston. Because of this, the nitrogen doesn’t mix with the shock oil like it does with a twin-tube design. You can typically use the nitrogen gas at much higher pressures because of this separation, as well, which further reduces aeration by degassing and boiling by low-pressure at the piston. A mono-tube also allows for a larger piston – providing more surface area for the oil to work with – and better cooling as the fluid makes direct contact with the cylinder while working and transfers heat away much more effectively.

ADJUSTING DAMPENING FORCE

As mentioned earlier, the dampening force is dependent on the piston’s design and the way the shims react as it flows through the shock oil. However, it is also possible to adjust that without tearing apart the damper. The primary way this is done in most mono-tube and several twin-tube damper designs are by allowing the shock oil to bypass the piston. For these Eibach dampers, there are two holes drilled into the damper shaft, one or more above the piston and one through the center of the shaft at the bottom of the piston. The shaft is also drilled through with a rod or needle passing through it.

When the damper uses a rod, it connects to a pod at the bottom of the shaft and a rotating disc that has different sized holes for the oil the flow through. A ball detent not only gives the user an audible “click” to know where they are in their adjustments but also aligns the rotating disc’s holes to the holes of the pod. While simple, this design also limits the adjusting capabilities by only having so many holes to choose from.

In the needle design, the hole goes straight through the damper shaft at the bottom of the piston. Rather than using a rotating pod, a needle limits the opening inside the shaft. It works much like a carburetor needle does by gradually reducing the opening of the orifice. While it does offer far more adjustability, it will eventually full close off the opening, so the adjustment is finite. Another advantage is that the taper of the needle can be modified to change how much and how fast the needle reduces the orifice opening per knob turn before going fully closed.

ADJUSTABLE EXTERNAL RESERVOIRS

External oil reservoirs can also add an additional way to control dampening force by limiting how much fluid flows between it and the damper as it is displaced by the piston. On some shocks with an adjustable reservoir, a ball-detent controlled dial changes the preload the shim stack inside it. This sits on top of what looks like a piston, but instead of flowing through the fluid on a shaft, it’s fixed to the adjuster and fluid flows through it.

Because of this, the nitrogen, along with a floating piston, is in the reservoir rather than the damper body. This still works the same way as it would if it was inside the damper body, the pressure is still maintained by the nitrogen and floating piston. This is also how the twin-tube adjuster works. The base valve between the reservoir cylinder and the working cylinder would work and be adjusted in the same manner.

However, adjustable external reservoir twin-tube dampers do exist. Some don’t have a base valve, and some do but either way, they work very differently from a mono-tube external damper. It does borrow a little bit from the mono-tube external with the nitrogen gas being separated by a floating dividing piston inside the reservoir. Another design is to use a nitrogen bladder over a piston. It’s how the fluid goes from the outer and working cylinders that makes it very different.

What you can’t see is that there are two paths for shock oil to travel. One path is just for bound and is open to the working cylinder while the other is for rebound and is open to the external cylinder. Oil flow control is done by a piston with a spring and rate is controlled by adjusting the preload of that spring. The higher the preload, the more force is required to push the piston open and vice versa. Because of this unique requirement, the reservoir is usually fixed and is part of the damper cap. There are remote external reservoir versions, but these feature two reservoirs rather than a single because the flow must be separated between the two cylinders.

Big SoCal Euro

Big Euro in the SD

At the old Qualcomm Stadium, now the San Diego Community College (SDCC) Stadium, Big SoCal Euro closed in to its 20th year. Even with that type of age, it lives up to the name in more ways than one. Let’s check out one of the biggest European make shows in Southern California.

If you’re looking for the best in Euro, it’s hard to make an argument against Big SoCal Euro. From classic, beautiful restorations to wild, stanced monsters – you could find whatever your tastes were. Even Jaguars and Land Rovers made it to the show. Despite the Hollywood expectation of Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and Bentleys, VDubs, Audis, and Porsches are far better represented at shows like this.

What many people probably don’t realize is how big the VAG, Volkswagen Auto Group, brands are represented in California. From Type 1 Beetles to the latest advancements from Porsche or Audi, Wolfsburg’s brand was well epitomized. There were plenty of Rabbit Pickups, also known as the Caddy, and a smattering of Corrados at Big SoCal Euro but VW was in force with Golfs and Beetles. Porsche had everything from the latest GT3 to a great restoration of old-school 911s. However, some of the best 356s made their way to the most southern of SoCal.

The next biggest make isn’t much a surprise for SoCal – BMW. Come on, how do you have a Euro show without something Bavarian showing up. Showed up, they did. 2002s, 3-series, 5-series, and even an E46 Wagon made appearances. A true Euro Rat Rod came in, the CATuned 2002 known as Ratrod02. It features a turbocharged M20B stroked out to 3.2-liters. The inside is stripped out with panels covering the doors and its gauge cluster bare to the world. Seats are straight out of old-school hot rod by being absolutely basic. You can’t help but love it for its simplicity and its “don’t care” attitude.

Mini, which is pretty much BMW’s FWD division, had classic and modern Coopers that rolled out to the show. The craziest one was Stephan Brown’s R56 Cooper with a turbocharged Chevrolet 350ci swapped in and converted to rear-wheel-drive. Yes, a true, iron block Small Block Chevy, not an LS. Power from the crank is sent to a TH350 automatic to a Toyota 4Runner rear end that was four-linked. The hood is split in two to fit the front mounted radiator, which was originally going to be mounted where the passenger seat now resides. Yes, it’s as crazy as it reads.

Again, despite being as far away from Europe as you can get, European cars – from high-end to economy cruiser – get a lot of love in California. The land of hot rods and JDM knows how to build an EDM. However, you will see more quality builds from the Euro crowd because of the reputation of sophistication a car or truck from across the Atlantic brings. Well, if you ignore anything with Lucas Electronics, that is. Even then, Cali knows how to make that work better, function properly, and look good rolling down the block.

What Are LED Lights?

If you want bright but don’t want lights the size of Texas, you didn’t have much choice but to buy HID lights for your specific needs. However, a new light has been on the market and has constantly gotten better and less expensive with age. It’s the LED Light.

LED, or Light Emitting Diode, is the latest and greatest technology in lighting now. It uses a two-lead semiconductor light source that works like a p-n junction diode. If you don’t know what that is, imagine two plates sandwiching two types of conductive material. One material has electrons from the voltage applied to it while the other material has electron holes. When enough voltage is applied the electrons recombine with the holes and produces energy in the form of photons and you get light.

With halogen and HID, you can’t combine multiple patterns into one light source. You can’t have one eight-inch light that was both spot and driving – it’s one or the other. With the size of LEDs, you can get many different light patterns on the same source. Despite how bright they are, LEDs are very small usually no smaller than your pinky nail (or smaller if you have big hands). That yellow dot you see on most light circuit boards is the LED. Despite its diminutive size, it has the brightness and power to outclass many HID lights you see right now. Thanks to that you can package a very powerful light system on your vehicle without having to clutter it up.

The other bonus it has over HID is that it’s instant power up – you don’t have to wait for the plasma to build and warm up because there isn’t one. However, even LEDs, for their size and positives, have some drawbacks. LEDs are prone to producing more heat and manufacturers must take that into account when designing their lights. That includes the housings and circuit boards. That’s what adds costs to the housings because it must be waterproof, the LED can’t be exposed to outside elements, and there can be vibration issues. Even with its high cost, you can’t take away that its instant power, it can last 50-thousand-hours (if you buy from a reputable manufacturer), and you can buy fewer lights but can light up more areas.

So, if you’re looking to get your first set of off-road lights, which way should you go? Should you still use halogen? Save a little more for HID? Or are LEDs the better investment? While there will always be other factors, saving your money and getting a good, high quality LED setup isn’t a bad idea. It’s getting to the point where it’s not worth investing into a halogen or HID system because you can get so much more performance and longevity out of an LED.

With halogen lights, you get 250- to 300-hours of life out of them. With HID, it’s 3- to 5-thousand-hours. LEDs from a reputable company that engineers the product from start to finish will last up to 50-thousand-hours. You’ll probably go through several cars with a quality LED light. The only limitation is if there is an LED application for your vehicle outside universal products. However, there is always someone who makes an LED bulb to replace your headlights, fog lights, turn signals, and many other lights.

LED lights are the future for everyone. Initially more expensive than halogen and just about the same cost or just a little less expensive than HID, LEDs feature a longer life and better performance than either one. If you’re considering going LED for your project, it should be no brainer. Just be sure to purchase yours from someone you can trust, and you’ll get a long life out of it. Maybe even longer than your car lasts.

The SEMA 2018 Show

When it comes to the aftermarket, there is only one trade show that has it all. The SEMA Show is the largest gathering of automotive aftermarket companies dedicated to making your vehicle faster, look better, sound better, ride lower or taller, or just plain do more. This year, there were many exciting new parts that you’re going to have to figure out how to install.

The two biggest announcements from the show were done by Chevrolet and Mopar. Chevrolet introduced the eCOPO Camaro concept, an electric version of the COPO Camaro drag car. GM has been in a big push for electrifying their fleet and now it looks like they want to extend that to their performance line, too. The eCOPO is powered by an 800-volt battery pack that sends that power to a dual Borg-Warner HVH 250-150 motor assembly.

The other part of the eCOPO concept is the idea is that this motor will become another avenue for crate motor options from GM. They are doing this by making it able to be fitted to any transmission made for the LS bellhousing and crank flange. While testing is still ongoing, it is producing over 700-horsepower and 600-lb/ft of torque putting well within the nine-second bracket in the quarter mile.

Mopar, on the other hand, decided it wanted to stay gas powered and introduced the “Hellephant.” This is a 426 Supercharged Hemi crate engine that’s able to produce 1000-horsepower and 950-lb/ft of torque. To make this even crazier, it’s coming as a plug-and-play package for anyone who wants to stuff this much power under their hood. Legally, it’s meant for 1975 and older street cars and off-road vehicles, but we’re sure someone will put this into their JL or JK Wrangler at some point. Mopar is making it easy, too, as it will come fully dressed along with the wiring and ECU. It’s slated to go on sale in early 2019.

There were debuts of many new tires and lights to give you the grip on the dirt and light it up, too. Milestar Tires officially debuted their new Patagonia SXT, an off-road dedicated tire to the growing side-by-side and UTV markets. They also announced that Dan Fresh and his racing team will be running the tires in the 2018 Baja 1000. Baja Designs introduced their new OnX6 Hybrid Laser light. It uses two laser light chips along with a pair of LED light chips to create a unique beam of light for their High-Speed Spot optic light on the 10-inch light bar. They claim this combination gives a smooth light blend transition and increases their light beam distance by 350-percent at 95-watts. Their first batch is out now but in limited supplies.

If you’re into racing or into show cars, the 2018 SEMA Show was where you needed to be this year if you wanted to see what was coming out for your next build. Now, you’ll only see them after your competition has passed you by and taken that trophy.

What Are Halogen Headlights?

It was the revolution that brought about the modern headlight. However, what is this mysterious thing called the Halogen Light Bulb?

Halogen lighting is the typical light you see on most vehicles that aren’t a premium brand. From headlights to fog lights to auxiliary and off-road lights; halogen is the inexpensive go-to for lighting on nearly anything with wheels. Essentially, the way it works is that there is a tungsten filament that heats up and burns to produce light. Normally, that filament would evaporate away until either the bulb was black or it broke. Halogen creates a reversible chemical reaction cycle with the evaporated tungsten and allows it to stay at the same output until it eventually burns out, usually after 250-hours.

Headlamps in the US were basically locked to the standard filament bulb from 1940 to about 1968 and the establishment of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS). Europe, however, wasn’t locked to a standard and introduced the first halogen lamp for automotive use in 1962 with the H1 bulb. Even though it was proven to not only be a better light that lasted longer than the sealed beam, they were prohibited in the US. Once the fuel crisis hit, US lawmakers began to face pressure from the public and automobile manufacturers alike to finally allow new headlight standards and the “new” technology of the halogen bulb.

However, halogen lighting was limited to being stuck inside a sealed beam until the 1980s and the introduction of the 9004 bulb. The original H1 bulb, the one Europe had since the 60s, wasn’t approved for use in the US until 1997. Since then, we’ve had a slew of H-types used and approved in the US. What we’ve also gained are more aerodynamic front ends that allow for better fuel economy and performance.

Though, this also meant we lost the iconic pop-up headlamp in 2004 with the C4 Corvette and the Lotus Esprit ending production in that year. With smaller, slimmer shapes, the need for lowering the headlight to match the drastic angle of the front end was no longer required. Housing designs and better reflectors, along with the increased candela power of halogen bulbs, no longer mean we had to have a big bulky light on the nose of our cars and trucks.

Halogen bulbs are a great and inexpensive way to get lighting if all-out performance isn’t critical and you’re fine with changing a bulb. However, if you’re looking for more power and are approaching speeds of over 100-miles-per-hour, you really need a High-Intensity Discharge, or HID, light. That being said, the halogen light bulb probably isn’t going away for some time yet.

Rock Racing vs. Rock Crawling

These are two motorsports that are popular across the globe but started in the United States. On the surface, they seem similar, but what is the difference between rock crawling and rock racing?

Looking a rock crawler and racer, you’d think both rigs are the same. They climb over big boulders and go through stuff that would normally break a normal car. They feature a jungle gym of tubes and giant tires. They both feature selectable four-wheel-drive systems, big axles, and immense power. However, when you get down to it, these two vehicles aren’t even close to being the same in practice.

A rock crawler is designed to drive on a defined course, but not in the fastest time possible. They go through gates and take penalties for hitting specific cones, backing up, using their winch, and much more. It’s about pure finesse and driver pathing skill over finding the fastest line.

Rock racing, to contrast, is all about racing to the finish line faster than the person ahead or in front of you. While these rigs can race side by side, they aren’t a wheel-to-wheel race like you’d see in an oval race or at a road course. It’s the same as desert racing, but with the added difficulty of climbing rocks and boulders the size of those Milestar Patagonia MT Black Label tires you have on your own rig. You don’t get penalized for hitting a cone, backing up, using your winch, or anything other than short-cutting the course.

You’ll also see a difference in how they are built. A rock crawler will use a single air shock per wheel, feature four-wheel steering, and be built to be as light as possible. A rock racer, on the other hand, will feature two shocks per tire (in the unlimited class) with a coilover and a bypass, have only the front wheels turn, and built to be as strong as possible. Rock racing rigs are designed with jumps, compressions, and speed in mind – a rock crawler, not so much.

While the two disciplines started out with similar rigs, rock racing has evolved to become something that pushes the limits of what a rig can do. Not only does it have to be fast, but it must survive some of the harshest racing environments known and sometimes created by man. However, many of the rock racing parts have helped improve the parts you see on rock crawlers, too. Higher strength axles, gearboxes, and stronger, yet lighter components have all come from racing to the benefit of crawler and street rig alike.

What Are HID Lights?

If you’re going fast, anything over 90-MPH, or setting off in the pitch dark of the desert, you need a light that will keep up and put light far down range. You need the High-Intensity Discharge (HID) light.

To get light beyond the mid-range you need lights that are brighter than what even a 100-watt halogen is capable of. “The HID Light opened up the entire world of what a light can do and being able to drive off of it,” says Trent Kirby, operations manager of Baja Designs, “because it produced more performance and a brighter light in the same power consumption of a halogen bulb, it opened up the world to distinct types of beam patterns. It allowed us to go beyond your traditional Euro beam and spotlights.”

What makes an HID perform better and brighter is that, instead of a halogen/tungsten chemical reaction, it uses the electrical arc of two tungsten electrodes inside a tube filled with gas and metal salts. Once that arc starts, the metal salts become plasma and increase the light produced by the arc and begin to reduce the power consumption of the light. The ballast you must use is needed to start the arc and maintain it, but the power required to drive the ballast is within the typical automotive electrical system including vehicles that used halogen lights originally. It also lasts longer than halogen with most systems lasting to about three- to five-thousand-hours.

An HID system does come with some complications over a halogen bulb and you must think of things like packaging, waterproofing, and dealing with the initial surge and warmup of the plasma inside the bulb. There are a couple of different configurations of HID lights. One is where you have an external ballast and that sits near the back of the light or you can put it in the engine bay. The other allows you to have an internal ballast.

The internal ballast has a huge advantage for harsh conditions because it won’t allow the ballast to be exposed to the environments, especially off-road drivers because that decreases reliability and longevity versus an exposed ballast. It can also make for one less part to have to package, but the internal ballast light might be bulkier. Again, it’s something you must plan out when building your lights.

One of the first cars to appear with HID lights was the 1991 BMW 750iL in low-beam only, known as Litronic. The 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII was the first effort by a US Domestic manufacturer and was the only car with direct current (DC) ballast HIDs. Most ballasts at the time, and in use today, use an alternating current (AC) inverter. This allows the current to flow through both electrodes. While DC allows for simpler ballasts, it does wear the electrode that gets constant power more quickly whereas AC can allow for more equal wear, fewer fluctuations, and reduction in flicker.

Even so, the light you get out as either a headlamp or an auxiliary light like a fog or off-road light allows you to see much further than standard halogen bulbs. Never mind the advantage over the sealed beam filament light. If you need to send light beyond halogen light or you’re approaching speeds of over 95-MPH, it’s time to start thinking of better lights and start with HID.

The Inaugural Japanese Automotive Invitational

The Best of JDM at Pebble Beach

For the first time ever, Japanese makes had a headlining event during Pebble Beach Automotive Week. The inaugural Japanese Automotive Invitational presented by Infiniti brought out some of the best JDM cars from across the US.

To coincide with Infiniti’s fifth year in partnering with the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, an exclusive event was created just for the best Japanese restorations, race cars, and museum pieces. While it was an event done by Infiniti, that didn’t limit it to just Nissans, Datsuns, or the presenting mark. You had amazing cars from Mazda, Toyota, and even a Dome prototype.

Toyota brought out their big guns in both racing and vehicle rarity. The most stunning was the 2000GT Convertible, a car with only two made just for You Only Live Twice. Supposedly, it was made because Sean Connery was just a bit too tall for the closed cockpit or targa versions of the car. Despite the film’s popularity, Toyota never made a production version of the convertible, but it was considered for a while. There were also only 60 cars made for the US. A little-known fact about the 2000GT is that Carrol Shelby entered a pair of them in the 1968 SCCA C Production Category.

However, the predecessor of the 2000GT was the Sports 800, which could be considered the original “Hachi” from its nickname, “Yota-Hachi” or Toyota-8. The Sports 800 was only sold in Toyota Public Stores in Japan and it’s not hard to see why. With only 790cc (48.2-cubic inches), the 2U-B flat-twin engine only produced about 44-horsepower. It made up for that lack of power by only weighing 1,279-pounds. If you’re wondering, yes, the Toyota 2U is technically the father of the 4U used in the Toyota 86. We say “technically” because the 4U is based on the Subaru FA20.

Of course, you couldn’t present the event without bringing some of your best stuff in your racing and sports car history. You had the classic racecars like the Brock Racing Enterprises (BRE) Datsun 510. It was in the #85 guise once driven by Bobby Allison in the SCCA Trans-Am series in the Under 2.5-liter class. The BRE 510s raced against the best from BMW and Alfa-Romeo but proved to be too much. After two championships in the class, BMW and Alfa dropped their factory efforts in the Under 2.5 Championship.

There was also the Clayton Cunningham Racing Nissan 300ZX that ran in the IMSA GTS-1 class. This was the one that won the 1994 24 Hours of Le Mans in the IMSA GTS Class, 12 Hours of Sebring, and took home the IMSA GTS Class Championship for Nissan. It ran with what would become an all-star driving team: BRE’s legendary driver John Morton, Stillen’s IMSA Champion driver Steve Millen, and future Corvette and Cadillac Racing star driver Johnny O’Connell. This car was the one that made the VG30DETT the legendary and desirable engine it has become today. It proved to be a very reliable block that could put out 800-horsepower. The next year, 1995, IMSA declared that the VG wasn’t eligible in the GTS Class by way of an allowable horsepower mandate. So, the twin-turbo V6 was out and was replaced with a Nissan V8 based on the VH45DE that debuted in 1990.

For a long time, people wondered when we would see a Japanese-only event during the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. We finally got it and it was a classic event worthy of Pebble Beach Automotive Week. While it was presented by Infiniti, we still got great cars from the Land of the Rising Sun. You couldn’t have asked for a better way to represent the best of the best of JDM.

Elegant Metal

The 25th Rodeo Drive Concours D’Elegance

There is no better way to celebrate Father’s Day than to check out some of the most beautiful cars on the extravagant Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, CA. This year’s “Best of Show” of the 25th Rodeo Drive Concours d’Elegance went to a 1938 Hispano-Suiza H6B Dubonnet Xenia and was worthy of that award, indeed.

The Rodeo Drive Concours d’Elegance is becoming a tradition for fathers and their families to celebrate automotive art in Southern California. When you combine the indulgence of Beverly Hills with some of the most amazing and rarely seen metal on wheels, you create something special. That’s what a Concours d’Elegance is all about, after all.

To bookmark the Concours d’Elegance, 50 silver cars were brought out just for the show to celebrate the 25 years the show has been taking place on the historic road. It wasn’t just Euros and luxury cars, either, as muscle cars and the latest supercars made an appearance in the quarter-century marking color. It was also signified with the largest turnout for both cars and spectators with more than 30,000 people coming out to see what was on display for that blocked off section of Rodeo Drive.

The Best of Show winner was a 1938 Hispano-Suiza H6B Dubonnet Xenia, owned by the Mullin Automotive Museum. It was based off the Hispano-Suiza H6B, a luxury car with a 6.6-liter or 8.0-liter I6 built in the early 20th Century. This car’s historic significance is that it was designed by World War I flying ace, race car driver, and Olympic athlete Andre Dubonnet. He was no stranger to Hispano-Suiza, as he once raced a 1924 H6C with a body that weighed no more than 100-pounds.

This version was built with an independent suspension with an Art Deco-themed body that was hand-built by Jacques Saoutchik, a Russian-born French coachwork builder who started out his career as a cabinet maker before starting his automotive business in 1906. His body work included brands like Bugatti, Delahaye, Pegaso, and even Cadillac.

There were other awards, too. The Mayor’s Award for the Most Elegant went to Vin Di Bona’s 1957 Mercedes-Benz 300SC Coupe. Bruce Meyer’s Chairman’s Award went to a 1964 Porsche 904 owned by Sam Yagi. The Icon Award for a Timeless Classic went Tenney Fairchild’s 1964 Pontiac GTO. The Most Stylish, Rodeo Drive Award went to a 1960 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz Convertible owned by Kip Cyprus.

 There were many other awards, but the most important award was the funds raised for the Beverly Hills Police Foundation. It’s a non-profit charity that funds officers and their families when the time comes that they need it.

Rodeo Drive is known for being the crossroads of entertainment and fashion. However, for 25 years it has also been the home of some of the most beautiful metal Southern California has ever owned that wasn’t gold. The Rodeo Drive Concours d’Elegance is more than exotics and luxury, it’s the celebration of automotive history in a place that helped create it.

Crawlin’ With the Jeep Wrangler TJ

Jason Zamora’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ

When it comes to rock crawling, it’s not power that should be your focus as you build. Unless you’re racing in Ultra4, your rig should be reliable, able to articulate, have very low crawl gearing, and have very strong axles. Power means nothing if you can’t get over a boulder without breaking or crashing it. That’s why Jason Zamora’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ doesn’t have a ridiculous LS or Hemi swap – you don’t need it while crawling.

The Jeep Wrangler TJ was built by Engelhart and Moat (EM) Performance in Santa Fe Springs, CA, of which Jamie Moat talked to us about the build. “We wanted to build a fully capable Jeep with the best bolt-on part in the industry,” he said when we asked him about the build. The full build time was only four months, but the quality you see in not just the parts, but the finished product looks like a TJ that was built over several years. The mirror finish black paint job was done by One Off Rides Garage in Corona, CA and just doesn’t look like a paint job a crawler would have. That probably speaks more about the driving style of Zamora, though.

The engine is bone stock inside 4.0-liter AMC engine, an engine that is regarded as one of the best Chrysler engines ever built to power most any 4WD. Back then, it made 190-horsepower and 235-lb/ft of torque. Zamora’s probably makes about that or just better with the addition of a header and K&N intake system. The only other addition is the 100-amp alternator to drive the GGLighting 50-inch LED light bar and two-inch Pillar Pods, KC HiLites Rock Lights, Warn winch, stereo system with satellite radio, and ARB Compressor that sends air to the ARB Air Lockers.

The lift comes from a combination of a body lift with a front and rear Currie Enterprises Four-inch TJ Johnny Joint Suspension System. It features four-inch lift springs in combination with their adjustable upper and lower short arms that use Currie Johnny Joints, a rebuildable rod end joint that is stiffer than the rubber joints of the OEM control arms but not as teeth rattling as traditional rod ends. This also comes with adjustable front track bar, a rear trac bar relocation bracket, new polyurethane bump stops, and their Antirock adjustable front sway bar.

EM Performance also installed a set of Fox 2.0-inch diameter Performance Shocks. These are a set of monotube shocks that have an internal floating piston to separate nitrogen charged air from the oil. This eliminates oil aeration from pressure changes at the shock piston, which can happen from the oil boiling in the lower pressure areas of the piston’s travel. They feature better valving for off-road driving and on-road handling than the original OEM shocks.

That suspension connects to a pair of Dana 44 housings front and rear. Both also have ARB Air Lockers attached to 4.88:1 gears that spin the chromoly axle shafts. Those shafts are attached to Raceline Avenger Beadlock wheels in 17×9 with a 4.5-inch backspace (-13 offset, for you Euro and JDM wheel types). The beadlocks clamp down on a set of sticky Milestar Patagonia M/T tires in 37×12.50R17 all around. These tires have proven themselves at Ultra4 at places like the King of the Hammers and even racing at the Mint 400. Stopping this Wrangler TJ is an upgraded big brake kit while steering is handled by a Currie Currectlync Steering System with a Fox Steering Stabilizer damper on the tie-rod. The steering box is protected by a steel skid plate as, without it, it would be vulnerable to rock impacts.

With larger tires and increased suspension travel, you need to make room by modifying the body. For EM Performance and Jason, it was a call to GenRight Off-Road. For maximum front approach clearance, the stock bumper was replaced by a GenRight Stubby front bumper. Rear departure is increased by their Rock Crawler bumper and the GenRight tire carrier keeps the spare from contacting the ground in high-angle crawls. If needed, the rocker panels are protected by their Rock Sliders while the transfer case gets protection from their Belly Up Steel Skid Plate.

The fenders are no longer stock and tube versions from GenRight replace them as they open the fender areas for the bigger Patagonia M/Ts. However, to cover the inside of the front fenders, GenRight inner fender panels replace the TJ parts and helps keep air flowing through the radiator. Otherwise, the air would just flow around the radiator because that would be the easiest path. It also allowed the tube fenders to work without cutting the stock Wrangler TJ fenders.

While the passengers sit in the comfort of Mastercraft Suspension Race Bucket Seats up front and a suspension rear bench seat in the rear, they are fully protected by a GenRight Full Roll Cage. It bolts in place of the TJ cage but features far more protection by adding triangulation to the roll hoops and additional side impact strength at the A-pillar bars with a crossbar that fits over the stock TJ dashboard. They can drive without a cover or use the Spiderweb Shade made for the cage.

So, as you can see, power isn’t the factor that limits a vehicle’s crawling ability. Both the 2.5-liter and the 4.0-liter powered TJs can be made into respectable crawlers. That is if you put your money into the parts that matter like the tires, suspension, axles, and protection. Jason Zamora’s EM Performance built TJ is plenty proof of that concept. 

Is this ’69 Chevy Camaro SS Classically Original?

Curt Hill’s 1969 Chevrolet Camaro SS

It’s the dream car for many people around the world and screams absolute “Americana.” The 1969 Chevrolet Camaro SS is a car that captures the imaginations and romanticization of writers, directors, and car customizers. When you say “Camaro,” Curt Hill’s example will be the exact image people will have pop in their heads.

When it was built, the Camaro was Chevy’s answer to the Pony Car – a small, rear-wheel drive coupe with either an inline-six or V8 and a “live” rear axle. It was based on the F-body platform and it was a long-lived one. The first built in 1967 and ended in 2002 in favor of the Zeta-platform when the Camaro returned in 2010. The F-body was based off the X-body, a compact for its time platform in which the Chevy II and Nova, Buick Apollo and Skylark, Oldsmobile Omega, Pontiac Ventura and Phoenix, and the Canada only Acadian were built on. The only cars that were made with this chassis code were the Camaro and Pontiac Firebird. The first-generation specifically, which is what Curt Hill’s 1969 SS is, was carried over until November of 1969 due to delays in designing the second-generation chassis.

When the Camaro dropped in 1967, it came with three submodels (not including the base model) and packages upon packages as options for potential owners. You had the RS, which was mostly an “appearance” package that had hidden headlights and different taillights. The backup lights were under the rear bumper and you got RS badging on top of the brighter exterior trim. Then there was the Z/28, a high-performance package to work within the SCCA Trans-Am series rules, meaning it had a solid-lifter 302-cubic inch V8, four-speed manual transmission, power disc brakes, and two wide stripes down the hood and trunk lid.

Then you had what would become the package everyone in high school at the time wanted – the SS or Super Sport. It was the signature that indicated you had the best parts from the General outside of a COPO. You could get it with either a 396-ci V8 or the L48 High Output Chevy 350 V8. The chassis was upgraded to handle better and deal with the bigger power of the 350-High Output and 396. Further distinctions included the non-functional hood inlets, special striping, and that unmistakable SS badging. Before the Camaro, SS-badged cars were a mark of high performance with the Monte Carlo, Nova/Chevy II, El Camino, Chevelle, and Impala all carrying it.

The Camaro just continued to stamp in credits of its legacy, even to this day. In 1969, the final year of the first-generation with its own unique body design, the SS could be ordered as an RS/SS package. However, many laymen have trouble spotting the differences from 1967, ’68, and ’69 Camaros, but the immediate thing to look for in a 1969 is the lack of vent windows in the doors as that tells you it’s at least a 1968 model. The grill also has a deep “V” shape to it over the 67 to 68 as well as the deeper set headlights make the front end distinct to the ’69. The ’69 also looks wider and that’s because it is as the front and rear fenders are pulled out wider than the 67 to 68 and the doors also had to change to match the shape.

Curt’s is a standard SS, one of the 34,932 sold in 1969 and of the 243,085 total Camaros sold that year. His version is the 350 SS with the L48 engine, which came in all SS cars with the 350-ci V8 in 1967 to 1969 where it became available for all of Chevrolet’s car lines that could fit it. It’s a very different engine from the Generation One GM Small Block V8s. This 1969 is original, so it’s the version features a four-bolt main cap block (casting number 010) holding in the crankshaft with cast pistons moving in the 4.00-inch cylinders with 041 or 186 casting heads. Up top is a four-barrel Quadrajet carburetor with a hydraulic lifter system on a matching cam bumping the pushrods up and opening the valves. With a compression ratio of 10.25:1, the 1969 L48 can produce up to 300-horsepower and 380-lb/ft of torque.

The only modifications done to Curt’s engine is the addition of a custom painted carburetor hat (with Hill’s Rod and Custom) with an aluminum intake manifold under that and a set of custom painted valve covers. The only other modification was the addition of a set of trac bars under the leaf springs to help alleviate wheel hop. Other than that, it’s pretty much as he found it. The reason it looks as good as it does is due to it being in storage since 1988. He purchased the car and, other than the carb hat and valve covers, put on a new set of Milestar Streetsteel tires sized in P235/60R15. While these are P-metric sized tires, they are the closest to match the classic look and style of the of the 15×7 Z/28 Rally style wheels while offering modern radial tire construction.

Curt’s car is a barn find if it didn’t get found in a barn. It’s a very original, if a little hotter than OEM, Camaro SS. It certainly would look right at home on the streets of Van Nuys or Pleasant Hill, CA during its original heyday. It looks just as good now as it did when it was stored almost 30 years ago, maybe better now that it’s running around instead of sitting in the dark. We unquestionably enjoyed looking at it for this feature.

Black Gold: The 240SX S14

Jose Gutierrez’s 1997 Nissan 240SX

The later 1997 to 1998 S14 chassis 240SX captures an aggressive character that early S-chassis cars just don’t seem to exude. That’s why Jose Gutierrez had to have one and build it into his dream car.

It’s been a six-year labor of love. Through that time, this car has retained the character that Jose desired. While drifting at spots like Grange Motor Circuit doesn’t require a ton of power, Jose wanted more than what the original KA24 was putting out. So Jose went with the tried and true SR20DET engine. 

The SR20DET was the original equipment engine of the Japanese Domestic Market 180SX and Silvia. The S14 chassis like Jose’s came to these shores as a 240SX with a KA24DE engine, not the tried and true SR20DET that other regions got. The SR20DET lends itself very easily to upgrades and in stock trim with bolt-on parts like larger injectors, turbo, and MAF sensor which can make just shy of 400WHP—not too shabby. It has its limitations however, such as less than stellar torque. And in the sport of drifting, torque is king.  

Jose is swapping the SR20DET, shown above, with another proven platform, but it isn’t what you would expect. Jose isn’t going with a VQ or RB six-cylinder engine nor is he going with an LS V8—He is going with an inline 6 from Toyota: the 1JZ-GTE. The 1JZ, like the SR, is a proven platform with a lot of potential. These engines love single turbo swaps and Jose’s 1JZ will have a single Tomei M8280 turbocharger. That, of course, will require new intercooler piping and an exhaust system. Custom charge piping is being made by Richard Lopez from Rival Auto Works, to which a BLITZ blow off valve will prevent compressor surge. A BLITZ Nur Spec exhaust will complete the oval exhaust also made by Richard. Wastegate exhausting will be handled by the Future Fab turbine elbow that dumps wastegate gasses into the atmosphere.

The transmission is a nearly bulletproof Nissan RS5R30A five-speed from a Z32 300ZX. It’s not a straight swap for the 1J, as you do need an adapter with a flywheel made for the bellhousing adapter. To take the abuse of clutch kicks, an ACT Six Puck Clutch will sit in between the flywheel and pressure plate. An aluminum one-piece driveshaft will connect the RS5R’s output shaft to the differential.

The Milestar MS932 Sport is a high-performance tire that keeps a grip through long drift sessions, but they won’t do anything unless you keep them planted to the ground. That’s why Jose uses a set of Feal S14 coilovers for dampening control. SPL control arms and Voodoo13 tension rods control the direction of those suspension movements. Those curved Voodoo13 rods are required as the Rival Auto Works Knuckles would cause those beautiful 18×9.5 -37 WEDS Kranze LXZ wheels to contact OEM-style straight rods. The R33 Four-Piston front brake calipers get the S14 slowed when needed with a pair of Z32 calipers on the rear. An additional pair of Z32 calipers is modulated from the ASD hydro e-brake in the cabin.

To maintain the looks of the S14 while still making it unique to Jose, a D-MAX Type 3 body kit and hood were used with a black and gold flake clearcoat paint job. The wider front fenders come from Origin Lab while a set of Charge Speed rear fenders hug the rear tires. Custom LED corners, turn signals, and rear tail lights come from Luminous Lighting and, for kicks, a custom strobe light is installed. Can’t be serious all the time, you know?

Inside, Jose controls those Rival knuckles with a Vertex steering wheel and he runs through the gears with a GReddy GREX shift knob. A set of GReddy gauges allow him to monitor the engine while more custom LED lights keeps the interior interesting during night sessions. A custom switch panel by Rival Autoworks turns on everything he needs within reach and a Cusco cage keeps him safe if the worse should happen.

With the combination of the S14’s distinct nose design, a JDM bodykit, and the sound that only a 1JZ can make – Jose Gutierrez made sure his modified 240SX stayed aggressive. We can’t help but look at this S14 and agree with him. It’s a timeless look that he’s taken advantage of, now with an even more aggressive sounding engine.

Toyota’s at Long Beach: The 2018 Toyotafest

It may sound like the latest sales gimmick Toyota created to drive sales of new cars, but that’s not what Toyotafest is about. You get owners of new, neo-classic, and classic ‘yotas from all over Southern California coming out to show off their cars and trucks and brag about reliability.

A Toyota has a different meaning to each person who owns one. That’s what helps make Toyotafest different from other niche shows. You can have a slammed, VIP luxury Lexus GS400 while at the same time having a high-lifted Toyota Tacoma ready to tackle Johnson Valley in the same area. You can have the fastest Time Attack Toyota out right beside a Supra that’s built for drag strip. You can have a drift car right beside a restored 90’s classic. The only thing in common is who built them: Toyota.

This type of variety is all thanks to Toyota’s previous history. It was once a brand dedicated to motorsports and the automotive lifestyle. They had drivers like Ivan “Ironman” Stewart racing off-road beside Dan Gurney who stuck with the pavement. You had Lexus going toe-to-toe with the best from Germany and beating them in both luxury and performance.

Then in the 2000s, they lost it. They went from an exciting brand to being compared to refrigerators and looked upon as the appliance car brand. The excitement was gone, even as they brought Scion on board. Fortunately, it seems some of that excitement is coming back as they have absorbed Scion back into their wings. It looks good for enthusiasts and Toyota once again with the 86 and the new Corolla that comes with a six-speed and three pedals. It’s also bringing back the Supra, so we mustn’t forget that.

Next year’s Toyotafest might shape up to look somewhat different as this new excitement continues to build in the most reliable Japanese brand. Hopefully, they will have learned their lesson so that these enthusiasts have something to look forward to with their own kids, just as they had when they were growing up.

Hopefully, anyway.

This Nissan 240SX S13 Is a Drift Classic!

Brian Macias’ 1989 Nissan 240SX S13 Coupe

The Nissan S13 240SX is seen by many as the go-to chassis to get for a beginner drift car. With the plethora of parts available for it, it’s hard to argue against it. So, how did Brian Macias decide to build his? For fun and reliability to get him from the track and back.

“Personally, and financially,” said Brian, “the Nissan s13 with sr20 has been a preference for me over the years.” He’s been in different cars throughout his years of drifting and learning, so while those cars and engines were great, “it’s just easy to find parts for sr20s that just makes thing easy enough to just be able to take the car to the track, beat on it all day and still drive home.” It was about reliability and seat time since those are what matters the most to him.

It’s also one of the easier swaps for the S13 240SX since the SR20DET came in the original Japanese model. However, this engine is not stock, if the S13.4 valve cover didn’t give that away. The rotating assembly is the same as it was from the factory, which you can’t go wrong with since it was overbuilt by Nissan from the factory. The top end is also mostly factory but is improved with a set of Tomei 256 PonCams.

These cams are named for the 256-degrees of duration with 11.50mm (0.453-inch) of lift on the exhaust and intake camshafts. This is 16-degrees more duration (valves are opened longer) and 2mm more open on the intake and exhaust over the stock SR20DET camshaft. To allow for more abuse at higher RPMs, a set of GReddy Rock Arm Stoppers are installed. These prevent the rocker arms from opening the valves too far (causing valve float) because rocker can continue to open after the camshaft has gone past its apex, leading to damage to the engine.

The S13’s turbocharger was changed from the stock Garrett T25 with a .64 A/R to a Garrett GT2871R with a .64 A/R. This sounds like it’s not an improvement, but the newer GT2871R uses a ball bearing on the compressor shaft rather than a journal bearing on the T25 for better efficiency and reliability. Fueling this SR20 is done with a set of 550cc/min Subaru STi injectors fed by a Walbro 255-liter/hr fuel pump while the spark plugs are fired off an OE S15 SR20DET ignition coil packs. Controlling the spark and fuel is an Apex-I PowerFC and tuned by Koji over at Auto Talent.

Of course, if you’re drifting, you need angle and the right amount of grip. This very nearly completely built off the Parts Shop Max catalog with their Pro Coilovers, front and rear control arms, steering knuckles with inner tie rod ends, and rear solid subframe bushings. The front crossmember is modified by Bside Fabrication while the rest of the bushings are polyurethane.

Nissan Z32 300ZX brakes replace the S13’s brake system, including the master cylinder, and uses the Z32 internal parking brake assembly, which is part of the brake backing plate. Depending on what he needs, Brian uses several different wheels. Pictured here are a set of Enkei RPF1s in 17×9.5 front and 18×10.5 rear wrapped in Milestar Tires MS932 Sport Tires front and MS932 XP+ tires.

Inside, Brian sits in a Sparco Grid 2 seat with a set of Bride seat rails while his hands control a Sparco R 215 steering wheel and a GReddy shift knob. The passenger sits in a S14 Kouki OE Passenger seat with OE rails. The dash is covered by a Coverlay dash cover while the floor is covered by a set of Garage Moon Power floor mats. Making sure he keeps an eye on the engine is a STACK cluster that is custom fitted to the OEM dashboard gauge cluster.

Outside is classic S13 drift car looks. Clean, simple, but wider than stock. The bodykit, 55mm wider fenders, and roof spoiler all come from Fineline Tuning. D’Max is used for the hood while their corner, tail, and front bumper lights replace most of the OE parts and complete the Silvia conversion. The headlights and inside the D’Max tail lights are custom LEDs, the headlights are a pair of off-road light bars while the tails use Status LED panels. The GKTech Aero Mirrors finish off the modest exterior.

That’s all he really needs. It’s no show car, as you can see from the battle scars, but it’s a car that will get you to the track, get time behind the wheel, and drive home. “This car was put together with reliability in mind,” says Brian, “I never really cared about making huge amounts of power, always just wanted more seat time, and in the end that’s what matters the most to me.” Honestly, if you’re trying to get experience, this is what anyone should focus on. Getting seat time and you can’t do that with a car that isn’t reliable.

Holley Performance LS Fest West 2018

Who knew you could have so much variety from just one engine design? Holley Performance LS Fest West was the perfect way to show that and celebrate all things GM and LS V8.

LS Fest has been a staple of Holley Performance since 2010 but the West was begging for their own event. So, last year, Holley brought their famed celebration to Las Vegas and with it came a variety of automotive disciplines to show off the amazing LS engine. 2018 brought some changes, improvements, and expansions with two new exhibitions.

One of the substantial changes that came this year was combining the Autocross, 3S Challenge, and Drifting into a single area. This made getting to and from those events and the off-road or drag racing a much shorter trip. Not far from it were the new attractions – the Hoonigan “Thunderdome” and Mr. Chow’s Side Show, a demonstration of the NorCal car stunting culture that normally takes place illegally on city streets. Basically, it’s doing donuts in an enclosed area but doing so legally as compared to what normally happens.

Drag racing and LS engines just go together, so of course The Strip would be open for all three days with the Three Pedals Rumble, Cam Motion True Street, SAM Tech Street King, Vortech Late Model Heads-Up, Earl’s LS Truck 1/8-mile and MSD LS Outlaw 275 1/8-mile classes. For those not looking for compete or just wanting to run for fun, Hooker Headers opened the drag strip to Grudge Racing and Test-and-Tune, as well.

Over on the off-road side, with the Nitto Tires Off-Road Challenge, Loren Healy in the MBRP/Nitto Ultra4 4400 rig took the win. This is his older 4400 that might have seen its last race with him behind the wheel of it. It’s potentially sold and his new Unlimited ready for Ultra4 Racing’s Metal Cloak Stampede at Prairie City SVRA on May 11th and 12th.

For on-road, it was dominance by Rich Willhoff and his 2006 Corvette Z06. On the QA1 Autocross Course, Willhoff set fastest time with a 32.067-second run while on the Super Chevy 3S Challenge, he finished first with a 26.174. The Racepak Road Course Challenge saw him on top for a third time with a 1:22.388 time. The Lucas Oil Drift Challenge brought out the youngest winner so far in LS Fest History with Branden Sorensen taking first place in LS-swapped 212 Performance BMW. Second went to Noah Michaels in his Torqstorm supercharged S13 Nissan 240SX while Ian McDougall took third in his Drift Shop S14 Nissan 240SX Coupe.

That was it from LS Fest West in 2018 and they have promised to come back with even more in 2019. We’ll be there as well and look forward to bringing it to you next May!

AutoCon LA 2018

Billed as the Automotive Connection and a “global platform to celebrate all aspects of automotive culture,” AutoCon LA showcases the best of automotive enthusiasm and builders right in the heart of downtown LA.

Established in 2010, AutoCon has grown into something far greater than just another car show. Proof should be in its location in Los Angeles. Not just anything can display at the Los Angeles Convention Center. Featuring four halls and home of Automobility LA (formerly known as the Los Angeles International Auto Show), LACC is made for big shows. Should tell you just how large AutoCon LA really is, then. While not overtaking every hall, it still takes up nearly all the 210,685 sq. ft. available of the West Hall. It also comes with the advantage of being an indoor event, so even when it (rarely) rains, AutoCon LA isn’t hampered.

What helps make AutoCon LA unique is the opportunity to roll up to the main stage, something more recent car shows have copied since the inception. Selected vehicles will drive up to the stage and the owner will get interviewed or John “Nads” Naderi will talk about it in front of fans who get to stand right at the skirts or sit in the stands to watch each one roll up and off again.

Its history is more on the import vehicle side, but AutoCon is meant for everyone. So not only will you see the latest Honda Civic Type-R build but Jeeps, Mustangs, lifted trucks, and classic cars from the US and abroad. Custom cars range from R33 GT-Rs, BMW M4s, and even the occasional old and retired school bus. The show connects with the best and up-and-coming builders in California and across the nation.

If you missed the LA show, you can also see AutoCon events with the 2018 Formula Drift season at Atlanta, Seattle, St. Louis, Fort Worth, and the finale at Irwindale. You can also see the next stand-alone event at Pier 94 in New York, NY. It’s an enjoyable show for everyone in all forms of the automotive lifestyle. Hopefully, we’ll see you at the next one!

Luftgekühlt 5

Air Cooled Porsche Heaven in a Lumber Yard

Luftgekühlt, literally translated means “Air Cooled” and reflects the simple idea that Ferdinand Porsche created when he designed his first car under his name. Today, we celebrate his and Porsche’s air-cooled legacies thanks to Patrick Long and Howie Idelson with Luftgekühlt 5.

The pair of Porsche aficionados came together five years ago with the idea to celebrate all of Porsche’s air-cooled past. From the Pre-A 356 to the last line of 993s in 1998, Long and Idelson wanted to make sure the history of non-water-cooled P-cars were celebrated and cherished. Thus, Luftgekühlt was born. Each event is unique as they didn’t want to set a formula for every one of them.

For example, Luftgekühlt 1 was held in the parking lot of Deus Ex Machina, a café located on Lincoln and Venice. It was just enough room for 100 air-cooled Porsches. Luftgekühlt 2 was showcased at the Bandito Brothers Show Space in Culver City, CA. 3 took place at Modernica in Vernon, CA, which is a little south of downtown LA. 4 was at the Crafted Market in the Port of Los Angeles. Suffice to say, 5 had to be somewhere just as unique as those locations. However, who would have thought that a lumber yard would have fit the bill so nicely?

You couldn’t have a better backdrop, though. The simplicity of nature itself in the stocks of Ganahl Lumber’s open-air yard, feature cars on display and sitting on top of redwood lumber, the architecture and backdrops of the South Bay area – it all fit together to celebrate the simplicity and complexity of the air-cooled Porsche. Combined with a dash of dramatic, early morning light and you have yourself a beautiful event.

However, it also continues to showcase the unique nature of Luftgekühlt. Displaying at a lumber yard, at the Port of Los Angeles, Modernica, Bandito Brothers, and a Thai restaurant. Each one of those events has been unique and without repetition save for one thing: the celebration of air-cooled Porsches. This is one that, if you miss it, you have missed a unique show with an exceptional venue. So, look for Luftgekühlt 6 in 2019 because it’s sure to be another amazing event, even if you aren’t into Porsches.

S2KRAZY:
DAAAMNGIINA’S Honda S2000

A great sports car isn’t defined by maximum power. It’s defined by keeping a balance. Tiffany Miller, aka @daaamngiina, and her 2006 Honda S2000 sets the standard of good balance with performance.

If a car puts out too much power, the balance is lost, and control is nothing but a joke. This was the goal Honda set when it first created the S2000 in the AP1 configuration. Unfortunately, the mark was just slightly missed and in 2004, the AP2 configuration was released. With changes to the chassis and the engine, the S2000 became the hallmark of modern sports car performance.

With that in mind, Tiffany Miller and Sportcar Motion knew that it wouldn’t take much to further improve upon the design. The F22C1 in this AP2 is all stock internally but it does feature items to make it breath in and exhaust out better. First was the change to the Password JDM intake, an intake that creates better flow by minimizing restrictions and reducing turbulence before the throttle body.

Once the air and fuel mixture combust, the used-up gasses flow out of the heads and manifold to the J’s Racing Exhaust with the addition of an Invidia Test Pipe. With a Hondata Flash Pro tune on the stock ECU by Dardan, this F22C1 puts out 212 horsepower and 153 torque to the wheels. Now, you probably think that’s rather low as the F22C1 is advertised with 237 horsepower and 162 torque. That’s at the crank and, with losses calculated, Tiffany’s car is making around 244 horsepower and 176 torque at the crank.

Remember what we stated at the beginning: a great sports car isn’t defined by power but by its balance. The chassis balance is enhanced by a Tein Mono Sport Damper, a mono-tube construction rather than the traditional twin-tube damper solutions found in most kits. Doing so allows the oil inside the dampers to remain cooler. This is because the shock oil makes direct contact with the outer body of the damper, which wicks away heat much better than a twin-tube.

These dampers also go further by allowing for ride height and corner balance adjusting as well as tuning the damping forces. This is done by a needle valve in the piston rod the allows a certain amount of oil to bypass the piston valving until it reaches the force required to open the piston’s valve stack. In addition, a set of Milestar Tires MS932 Sports in 245/45R17s on 17×10 949 Racing 6UL wheels provide the grip required to stay on track during time attack and sporty driving sessions. This grip is also required when coming to a stop as the Stop Tech brake pads and rotors provide more braking force than the OE Honda pads once did.

Buddy Club Roll Center Adjusters ensure that the control arms stay in their correct movements after lowering the car beyond stock. Hardrace Spherical Tie Rod Ends prevent bumpsteer on this lowered S2000 by keeping the tie rods in line with the control arms. Without them, the tie rods would be at an upward angle and push the front tires to a toe-in condition on bump and toe-out on rebound.

The body is also just modified to fit the wider wheels and Milestar Tires under the body with a set of Voltex Fender Flares. A custom Sportcar Motion front splitter is made to fit the ASM I.S. Design Aero front bumper. This bumper and splitter combination is designed to allow enough air to flow around the body but also keep it flowing to the Koyo Racing Radiator to keep the engine cool. The Voltex Wing, J’s Racing Rear Diffuser, Password JDM Canards, and Downforce Side Skirt Diffuser all improve the flow of the air around the body, but the Seibon Carbon Hood and Hardtop help reduce its weight.

We look forward to seeing more JDM builds from Tiffany Miller.

Early Bird: Coffee and Cars With Pelican Parts

Wake up before dawn, drive your car, get coffee, and talk about your car – that’s what Coffee and Cars with Pelican Parts is all about. Gatherings put on by enthusiasts have been around since the first car clubs went out to eat at the local diner or drive-in before cruising around town. However, the most recent trend has been for the early birds. Pelican Parts got in on that act with Coffee and Cars with Pelican Parts at the Promenade on the Peninsula.

What’s great is that, even though it’s put on by the European parts aficionados, it wasn’t limited to just the Euros. Several fans brought in Nissans, Subarus, Fords, Chevys, and many other makes. That’s the secret about putting on a good, free show: keep it open to everyone. Even a JDM head can take the time to appreciate the USDM and EDM.

There were even cars you probably wouldn’t expect, like a classic Porsche with a Chevrolet LS-V8 installed. Yes, that is a LS, but the valve covers feature chrome covers to replicate a small block 350. However, it’s the intake that gives it away. It’s set up facing backwards – thanks to the intake ports being the same because you can use either head on either side on a LS – to give the piping just a little bit more room and to allow the boot to close. Another interesting swap was a Mercedes-Benz W186 300 with the LT1 swap. It’s impressive and a little brave considering what classic Mercedes fans would say and feel about it.

Of course, it wouldn’t be an event with Pelican Parts if there weren’t some Euros there. You couldn’t miss the Ferrari F40 except for the fact there were also a pair of 356s. Then there were the Slant Nose Porsches, one a targa and the other a hard top. If you can’t say you were a fan of those, you just can’t love a Porsche. Love the BMW 2002? There were well in attendance as well as a 3.0-liter CSL.

With the success of this event, Pelican Parts has announced there will be another Coffee and Cars event on April 25th. This one will be back at the Promenade on the Peninsula, so if you missed this one you have another shot. It’s well worth the early morning wakeup call.

Cars and Coffee: South Bay Sunday by Milestar Tires

The Cars and Coffee scene has grown since its introduction just a few years ago, but there was one area that was lacking such an event. That’s when the team down at Milestar Tires decided it was time that the South Bay got their event with South Bay Sunday.

It was probably a phenomenon that not many predicted would get as popular as it has today. A gathering of car enthusiasts of all kinds that get up, sometimes even before the sun rises, to gather at a local spot for a good cup of coffee and look at each other’s cars. It wasn’t a single make or even just JDM, American, or European makes. Cars and Coffee were for everyone when it started in Irvine, CA back in 2006. It’s now grown into something that not only each state has, but seemingly every country where there is a driving public has a Cars and Coffee event of their own.

While these events had taken off in the Irvine and Orange County area of California, Los Angeles was sorely lacking many events. There certainly wasn’t a regular event happening in LA. One would pop up, but there was never a permanent fixture for the city best known for its custom car culture. That’s when Martin and Rob of Milestar Tires came to the rescue. Utilizing the Tireco building where Milestar is headquartered, the former headquarters of Nissan North America, and right in the heart of California’s custom car and hot rod culture. Right in the heart of the South Bay in Torrance, CA.

Just like other Cars and Coffee events, the ones at Milestar’s parking lot are open to all and you’ll see everything from classic hot rods, high-tech exotics, and lifted trucks. No one is unwelcome, provided you act as a good neighbor and don’t rev your engines, peel out of the parking lot, or speed around the city streets. Follow those rules and this event will be around for a long, long time.

When will the next Cars and Coffee South Bay Sunday take place? It’s every third Sunday of the month, so your next one will probably be coming very soon. We hope to see you there!