Engine Swap Fundamentals: Trucks

Classic pickup trucks are great candidates for engine swaps for many reasons. For starters, the original motor in any vehicle more than 20 years is bound to be tired and in need of an intensive overhaul if it hasn’t been properly and regularly serviced throughout the years. Enthusiasts who are interested in giving their old truck a new breath of life with a modern engine with far more power, an engine swap is the best way to go given the amount of ready-to-go crate engines and install kits that can make the job doable, and rather affordable too. Whatever the case may be, a new engine can make a world of difference in the experience in building and driving a custom classic truck or vehicle of any type, really. 

New or Used? 

Either way, there’s no losing when replacing that old, whipped engine that’s way past its prime.

Depending on the type of truck you’re working on, there will be plenty of engine options to consider. “New VS. Junkyard Find” will always be a heated battle that will almost always favor a brand new mill given the reliability and warrantied performance at a slightly higher premium when compared to a used engine that would require maintenance and refurbishment before installation. While a good amount of builders will resort to ordering a virgin engine, there is a respectable sect that prefers to scour the junkyards and partake in the thrill of the hunt when looking for that perfect transplant motor that can be had at a fraction of the price. Either way, there’s no losing when replacing that old, whipped engine that’s way past its prime. 

Engine Types

While Coyote 5.0L Mustang engine swaps are trending in classic Ford pickup builds, LS engines have been all the rage in the C10 market for some time now. Since the size is similar to a small-block Chevy (SBC), there is plenty of room to plant one under the hood of just any year classic GM truck.

While there are plenty of other engine SBC V-8 options to select from such as a 350, 327 or 305 models, nowadays the LS platform has taken center stage with a very wide selection of aftermarket kits to assist in the swap of your truck’s new engine. Whichever engine route you decide to take, it will be a drastic change in performance compared to your truck’s dated power plant. 

Adaptability 

While available room isn’t an issue so much when installing a smaller, more modern engine into a classic truck, the matter of properly placing the engine becomes the real factor during a swap. While there are many installation kits available for LS and other engine platforms to pick from, the job itself is anything but plug and play—no matter what you see advertised online. Selecting correct engine mounts is paramount, and luckily, finding the right ones isn’t hard these days.

Aside from getting the new engine to sit in the right place, you’re also going to want to consider swapping out the transmission, driveshaft and all the fixins, especially if you’re going with a more high performance engine. While not necessary at first (but highly recommended), just keep in mind that the OE equipment, especially depending on its age, wasn’t designed to handle the kind of power an LS unit is capable of. Oh, and don’t forget a torque converter. 

Breathing and Cooling Options 

A new engine will require a fresh exhaust system with an emphasis on a proper exhaust manifold and header selection. While there is a range of affordability here to fit any budget swap, you’ll want to take clearance into heavy consideration here. 

A capable radiator is also of utmost importance since heat will definitely not be your new engine’s friend. Depending on the engine you’ve selected to run with, it may be more feasible to go the aftermarket route, maybe even an engine-specific selection, instead of saving a few bucks salvaging one from the scrapyard. 

Gassed 

Let’s say that you went with an LS engine to swap into your old truck. If that’s the case, then you may be ecstatic to ditch a carbureted setup and run with an EFI setup, unless you’re a big, big, BIG fan of the carb. Choosing EFI will make you consider fuel tank and pump options that will vary based on price and level of installation that you’re comfortable with. And if you just can’t stand to stray from a carbureted fuel system, there won’t be as much of an issue, but just be prepared to handle the pros/cons of whichever option you choose. 

Take Control 

It might not click instantly when planting a modern engine underneath the hood of your old truck, but new engines carry with them their own sets of characteristics to take into consideration. Now, when it comes to the ECU (electronic control unit) and wiring harnesses, you’ll have options to choose from to better dial in the installation process. This is where things can get exponentially interesting. Depending on how you plan to drive your truck, you can select an aftermarket ECU controller package that can handle the wiring, as well as enable you to unlock your engine’s true performance capabilities. Builders looking to race their truck or run it through the autocross course will get the most out of topping off the swap with the right ECU package for the job. 

Kick start your sluggish pickup project by tossing the old engine out, and swapping in a brand new crate engine or freshly rebuilt motor in its place. While an engine swap does encourage the replacement of the transmission at the same time, as well as a lot of other key equipment pieces, the job can really update a classic truck in more ways than initially realized. Increase horsepower by the ton, while also delivering a new sense of reliability in the truck you plan on getting real seat time in with whether it be at the track or open stretches of highway. An engine swap isn’t the easiest or cheapest things to do with your truck, but one that will certainly make the biggest impact in the way you enjoy it. 

Who’s The Boss: Ford Raptor vs RAM TRX

Now, there have been A LOT of comparisons between these two behemoths of the factory off-road truck world, and the results are pretty much unanimous. But we aren’t really here to determine a winner or loser, because let’s be honest here, neither the Raptor nor the TRX deserves to be called a loser—not in the slightest. There is, however, a more divisive line that has been drawn in the dirt as to which of these two impressive trucks hits the hardest—for now. 

Right out the gate, it’s no secret that the 2021 RAM 1500 TRX currently packs a heavier punch. The supercharged, intercooled 16-valve 6.2L V-8 cranks out a bruising 702HP with 650 lb-ft of torque, which just happens to be the true definition of Hellcat power right there! Now, as impressive as those numbers are by themselves, just think that the TRX completely mashes the Raptor’s 450HP offering by a difference of 252HP! That’s big. On paper alone, RAM clearly takes the first arm wrestling match, but we’re quite interested to see how Ford retaliates with the next Raptor rollout. Whatever they do come back with has to be some kind of big artillery in hope to keep up at the very least. 

When it comes to the exterior of both trucks when they’re side by side, there’s clearly a larger one of the two. The TRX stands more than two inches taller than the Raptor and measures almost two inches wider. The beefier façade just isn’t skin deep, as the RAM truck tips the scales at 6,866 pounds—nearly 900 pounds heavier than the Raptor. That extra size and weight doesn’t exactly equate to a slower moving pickup, as the TRX can reach the 60mph mark quite quicker than the Raptor. Again, while RAM is leading the race at the moment in the performance category, we’ll see what Ford cooks up in the future to combat this onslaught. 

As far as suspension and handling is concerned, both the TRX and Raptor offer more-than-competent suspension systems comprised of well-qualified suspension components, but the RAM has proven to edge out Ford, and that is mostly in part to the inclusion of a coil spring system paired with Bilstein adaptive dampers. The Raptor still employs leaf springs, which may change at some point (maybe not), but so, as there are some necessary tweaks to be made in order for the former off-road champ to hopefully re-enter the contest with increased maneuverability. While there is definitely nothing “wrong” with the Raptor’s existing suspension setup, as it would outperform a great deal of would-be performance trucks out there looking to contend, it’s just that RAM really has raised the bar that much higher in this category, especially for its weight class.

Creature comforts are important, and the TRX does capitalize on being built upon America’s favorite pickup—the Ram 1500 platform. The truck is only available in a crew-cab option, which may be an issue for those who specifically desire another cab configuration, but there are plenty of add-on luxury packages on both trucks to make just about anybody happy. At a quick glance, the TRX does feature a more updated and refined interior space, with a much larger infotainment screen than Ford’s. That much alone scores some very important points with consumers. 

Another limitation that is attached to the TRX is the lack of any 2WD mode to be found. While the Raptor does feature one, all that is available on the RAM are 4WD Low, 4WD High and 4WD Auto settings. Take that for what you will. This may not land in deal breaker territory (or maybe it does) but it definitely is something to keep in mind. 

Another thing to take into consideration when comparing these two heavyweights is the price associated with them. The starting price point for the TRX is $71,790—definitely on the higher end of the spectrum as compared to the Raptor’s “meager” $55,150 tag for extended cab models. Now, these are just the base prices, so if you plan on spending extra on some upgrades (which most buyers do) plan on throwing another $8-10k at these trucks. Bargain hunters may balk at the TRX price tag, but did you expect a Hellcat engine, crew cab model, or anything else about this obvious premium truck to run “cheap”? No? Didn’t think so. 

At the end of the day, it’s important to remember that it’s a new day in the off-road truck industry. The baked-in greatness that has come standard in the Raptor for the last decade has afforded it a rightful place at the top of the heap—but its throne has most definitely come under heavy fire. While attempting to stray from that whole winner vs. loser thing, it’s safe to say that RAM is the current leader in this heated battle royale. We do expect Ford to come back swinging, as they absolutely must to respectfully defend the Raptor’s honor. 

While there is much room for the Raptor to show improvement in the future, there is equally as much space for the TRX to grow as well. Bruising egos wasn’t seemingly the intention with the release of RAM’s high-performance rig (or maybe it was) but this is the off-road rivalry all truck enthusiasts have wanted to see for the better part of 10 years. RAM surely wasn’t interested in being a contender here, that’s for sure, as their sights were set directly at the Raptor’s crown. 

We do expect that the entire pickup-loving world will be anxiously awaiting Ford’s response to this wallop of an upset. This fireworks show has just begun, folks—stay tuned.

Picking Your Ride Height: Lifted vs. Lowered

In the world of custom pickups, trucks often fall into two distinct categories as far as suspension systems go—lifted or lowered. These two worlds are as divisive as modern politics given that the overall purpose and aesthetics go in completely opposite directions. Everything on each side is different—from the necessary suspension components themselves, right down to the cultural differences of both types of truck owners. While both methods of suspension alteration are equally cool to impartial onlookers, the height of one’s truck might say a lot about their preferred extracurricular activities. Off-road and autocross action both require different types of trucks, each equipped with specialized components and accessories.

Up VS. Down 

While there is no right or wrong side of the fence to be on, it all comes down to personal preference, really. How far is one’s desire to go higher or lower than factory ride height? Both cases do have mild routes—a few inches or so in either altitude level, that are fairly easy to revert back from just in case the urge to go back to stock becomes unbearably tempting (does that ever happen?) Whatever the case may be, let’s take a quick look at what it takes to set a truck apart from the crowd of the boring factory ride height stiff. 

Leveling 

Most new truck owners gravitating toward the side of lifted suspension do have one entry level solution that is oftentimes too good and too inexpensive to pass up—the leveling kit. Basic packages rarely cost more than a few hundred bucks, consist of nothing more than easy-to-install coil spring spacers and new hardware to lift the front end, (depending on year/make/model) and can usually be handled at home in the garage. Aside from the price and ease of installation, leveling kits also boast one more thing—the instant ability to run bigger, more aggressive tires due to the extra clearance up front. “Mild” may have never have looked so better, right? 

Lifted

The difference between a lift and basic front end leveling kit is that a lift is a lift of the entire suspension—front and rear. Off-road fans would argue that a jacked up truck is far more capable than any lowered vehicle to handle the roads less traveled. Given a lifted truck’s longer suspension travel and beefier tires, this argument does hold validity—a truck not equipped with the right suspension and tire setup pretty much hits an invisible wall wherever the paved road ends. 

While some hybrid leveling packages do include modest rear lifting components, a true lift kit will be much more noticeable at both ends. Instead of the more simple components used in leveling kits, premium lift packages consist of replacement spindles, control arms and leaf springs to get the height you want with optimum ride quality in mind. 

Raked

There’s nothing worse than an intentional saggy rear stance.

Factory trucks naturally come with a moderate “rake” (a slightly higher rear end to even out the ride height when hauling a heavy payload). Leveling kits are used to do just that—level. But what if you simply want to embrace the raked look while lifting the front end or still plan to use the truck’s bed to still haul heavy loads? There’s nothing worse than an intentional saggy rear stance. Attaining the perfect height for your truck is easily doable since there are so many suspension components and packages to dial in the desired ride height down to the inch. 

On the other hand, lowered trucks utilize more exaggerated rake positions at times. The stance just looks cool, especially on classic models with a set of extra wide rear tires. Whether it’s a performance thing at the track or just for a sportier appearance, it’s just a great way to play with suspension height and fun tire combinations that otherwise would just look downright weird at any other stance.  

Lowering 

Dropping the height of a truck can be done with common static suspension components such as spindles, control arms, and springs up front, and leaf springs, blocks and shackles at the rear. There is a limit to lowering before more drastic steps come into play such as cutting and notching the rear frame to make room for axle clearance. Most component manufacturers design their kits to be mostly bolt-on affairs that handy owners can manage to do at home with the right tools, making most lowering jobs attainable. 

Air ride is another facet of lowering that combines static components and specialized parts like air bags and compressors but can also feature full custom, high-dollar chassis that makes on-demand, adjustable ride height a legitimate art form. While that may sound like a lot of time and money to invest in attaining the ability to drop a truck’s frame on the ground (which it is), there’s nothing cooler and lower than this route. As with static lowering, tire selection is key since clearance shrinks, especially at the front, whereas much wider tires can be fit at the rear. 

Yet another way to lower a truck is by selecting coilovers instead of air bags. For those wanting to take their lowered pickup to the autocross track, this is really the only way to go. The more responsive suspension will make cornering and handling during abrupt changes in speed a breeze. Throw in a set of high-performance tires into the mix for a truly exhilarating experience behind the wheel. 

Bottom Line 

Think of your next factory height truck, whether brand new or used, as a blank canvas. Get a custom look and feel on the cheap and quick or go all-in for increased excitement and maximum curb appeal. Level it. Lift it. Lower it. There’s no wrong way to go as long as you stay true to what you want and need out of your daily driven or project pickup.    

C10 Terminology: Understanding the Basics

The Chevrolet C10 pickup line spans nearly three decades with three distinct generations released in that time. Each generation is uniquely different with a devout following of fanatics behind each one. While the Chevy C10 was one of the best selling pickups during its time on the market, the C10, across all generations, remains one of the most modified trucks to this day. The aftermarket support for these trucks is utterly amazing, which makes customizing them exciting and attainable for novices and experts alike. From suspension and performance products to exterior and interior styling items, there really is no limit to what can be done with these timeless American trucks. 

Now, whether you’re in the market for a Chevy C10 truck or are an avid admirer of one of the most popular American pickups to ever hit the streets, you’ll always run into specialized vernacular that describes in better detail the particular specimen you happen to be drooling over. In an effort to help familiarize you with these key terms attached with the C10 platform, we’ve gathered a small group of widely used descriptive words to assist in sifting through classified ads or to just having a better understanding for these classic pickups. 

The C10 Name

While some generic truck terms are easier than others to pin down and understand, there are others like the actual C10 name that can leave both newcomers and some well-versed enthusiasts equally stumped. While the name of these trucks has become familiar in many automotive circles, the C10 title is actually a bit coded. GM introduced the C/K truck platform in 1960, with the “C” prefix standing for  “conventional” signifying the truck is a 2WD model, where the “K” models would indicate a 4WD pickup. 

To further differentiate GM’s truck offerings, another commonly seen model, the C20 was also made available, which was capable of carrying a ¾-ton payload compared to the C10’s ½-ton abilities. While there are other differences between C10 and C20 models including towing capacity, suspension components and varying engine options available in some years, payload is the main separation point between the two. 

Bed Length 

Aside from three different Chevy C10 generations (1960-1966, 1967-1972 and 1973-1987), there are universal terms that place them into separate subcategories based on the bed type each happens to be equipped with. The most popular among builders these days is the short bed over the long bed. The less lengthy bed has a sportier aesthetic that simply looks and performs better on the autocross course, but if all you can find for sale are long beds (which are usually cheaper anyway), don’t fret—converting long into short is a very common modification these days. It all really comes down to preference in looks and specific hauling needs, but the difference between the two is important to take note of. 

Bed Styles

While we’re on the topic of beds, let’s also examine two style variations: Fleetside and stepside. The Fleetside is the sleeker of the two as it features flat paneled sides with the wheel wells concealed within the bed. Other automakers have their own terms for this particular style (Styleside and Sweptline are used by Ford and Dodge respectively), but GM’s Fleetside term has taken precedence over them all and can be used interchangeably unless you like to stick to each brand’s own technical term. 

The stepside model bed features a more utilitarian (think farm truck) look and function with the wheel well placed on the exterior, making a body recess with a built-in step just behind the cab to allow easier access to the bed. This style was actually the only truck bed option with GM trucks produced between 1947-1959. It wasn’t until the introduction of the Chevy C10 in 1960 when the Fleetside became the new “standard”. The two styles create significant difference in side profile appearance, and while the majority tends to prefer the Fleetside option, the stepside has its own charm and dedicated sect of fans. 

Generation “X”

Chevy’s first generation C10 proved to be a major shift in both appearance and performance from their truck models that preceded it. Although there really hasn’t been a sweeping nickname given to Chevy trucks made between 1960-1966, the second-generation C-Series trucks did get one, although you’ll rarely ever hear it used.

The handsome, modern styled trucks released from 1966-1972 came to be known as the “Action Line” as creature comforts not often associated with work trucks became available to cater to a new breed or truck owners. A much-improved coil spring trailing arm suspension system also played a role in the new name as it helped achieve a car-like ride quality, and a handful of interior amenities and the inclusion of disc brakes went a long way into creating an appealing overall package that stands as one of the most attractive classic truck models in the crowd today. 

As the third generation of Chevy C10s rolled out in 1973, so did a more descriptive name for the new rounded body style—the square body. While this wasn’t the official name given to this model (Chevy actually dubbed it the Rounded-Line), it’s the one that has lasted throughout the years and been embraced by 3^rd gen enthusiasts. The boxy body features a wider profile with rounded edges, which was a vast change from the 2^nd generation’s sleek streamlined design. While the change was different in appearance, it wasn’t different in popularity as even more in-demand cab options like power windows and door locks were made available to consumers. The C10 pickup was no longer seen as merely a vehicle used only by the working man—it was now more appealing than ever to those looking for an alternative to driving a “regular” car. 

While there are a lot of other more specialized terms associated to Chevy C10 model trucks, knowing which bed is attached to what generation will tell you a lot about a pickup without even seeing it. No doubt, these terms will help narrow down your truck search or simply allow you to further your knowledge about the line of classic Chevy pickup trucks that you’ll be seeing at shows and on the road for many years to come.