Evil 1956 Jeep Willys:
The Ultimate Off-Road Adventurer

There comes a time in one’s life when “fitting in” takes a back seat to being unique and truly different than the rest of the pack. Pat Soffe (@offpvmt) of St. George, Utah found himself in this exact category while figuring out what vehicle to build. His major prerequisite was one that could keep up with his off-roading, rock crawling habits—but that all changed before he even began.

…Just make sure to measure the height of the door before you get started though…

As the sun started to set on Pat’s time with his 2001 Jeep XJ, he began weighing the pros and cons of building a newer Jeep—a JL. Unfortunately, the cons quickly posed a very real sign to go into a different direction. “The first deterrent of building a new JL was the price of a new JL”, Pat admits. “Purchasing a brand new stock condition vehicle that would need so much additional money invested to match the capabilities of our old Jeep was just too cost prohibitive.”

With the towering monetary barrier causing Pat to find another way forward, he began scouring the used JL market, but was soon hit by another block in the path. “We took our old XJ to three JP Magazine Dirt & Drive events among other meets throughout the years, and something that kept telling us to stray away from going with a Jeep JL was that literally EVERYBODY else had a JL. I wanted something that would get noticed and stand out.”

While Pat still didn’t know exactly what kind of rig to build next, he did start watching past Four Wheeler magazine’s Ultimate Adventure videos in hopes to find nudge in a certain direction. “I was going through hours of coverage to get some bit of inspiration, and then there it was”, Pat says excitedly. The vehicle he spotted was a 1949 Willys truck, and it belonged to JP Magazine’s own Verne Simons. “I was instantly hooked. I soon found myself literally taking screen shots of as many photos as possible of Verne’s truck. As luck would have it, I had a chance meeting with Verne at the Lucas Oils Off Road Expo in Pomona, California. It was that exact moment that solidified my decision to build a 1956 Jeep Willys truck.”

With the big picture crystal clear in his mind, Pat soon embarked on his own Willy’s build—starting with a 1997 Jeep TJ frame. “We literally started with a blank slate”, he says. “The humble beginning allowed for the build process to move ahead rather simply.” First, that TJ chassis was stretched at the top of the rear axle rise and extended 42 inches to provide a proper place to mount the bed, as well as obtain a 118-inch wheelbase. The front Dodge Dana 60 Kingpin and the rear GM 14-bolt axles were then built up before the custom front 3-link Skyjacker suspension setup, as well as a rear 4-link system that both feature TJ 2.5-inch dual rate springs and ADX reservoir shocks were assembled.

To handle the terrain shredding, rock climbing duties Pat was after, he selected a set of TR Beadlock HD17 wheels and 40×17-inch Milestar Patagonia tires that are well known for their established prowess out in the wild. So far, Pat’s Willys project was showing some real promise while on the ground floor. Next, he would begin the process of finding an adequate power source to fuel the level of adventure he had in mind for his soon-to-be assembled pickup.

Pat could’ve run with many different engine options but he ultimately chose a 2002 GM 5.3L LS power plant, as well as a Monster TH400 transmission to propel his truck through the elements. The LS provided modern reliability, as well as more than enough horsepower and torque to get him out into the great wide open and back home again. To keep the engine cool even during the hottest day in the desert, a Champion 3-row aluminum radiator with a Spal fan was selected, which is actually a Jeep CJ V-8 conversion that fit the bill perfectly.

…The first deterrent of building a new JL was the price of a new JL…

Now as far as the ’56 Jeep Willys truck cab, front end and bed, Pat didn’t do a whole lot to prep it for installation onto the frame. The natural 66-year-old patina, which is impossible to duplicate otherwise, was left in place as a nod to the experience this truck has seen in action. Pat did include many new conveniences to the Willy façade in the way of a front and rear bumpers, a Warn winch and a whole arsenal of Rigid LED lighting, which is required equipment for the environment Pat tends to frequent.

Next, the interior space within the cab was completely Raptor lined before it was outfitted with a set of Corbeau Baja XP seats, light gauge sheetmetal door panels and aircraft style toggle switches. The Willys’ cabin is comfortable enough to allow Pat to navigate his truck through some pretty rugged terrain without feeling like he was roughed up too badly at the end of the day.

Now that we see a physical manifestation of Pat’s latest rig build, the many questions regarding the ‘how’s’ and ‘where’s’ behind the project begin to surface. While he does have some fabricating experience, he didn’t put the truck together at a professional shop. “This truck was built in its entirety in a two-car garage”, he says proudly. “While I did have some know-how to go on, not so much with our old XJ, which was put together with mostly off-the-shelf parts, I never put together anything of this magnitude before.”

Once the dust settled, Pat begin to look right where he started to prove that his creation was ready to take on the Ultimate Adventure—the very event that gave him the inspiration to put the truck together in the first place. While he was told that the unique and not-often-seen trucks are usually selected to participate in the event, his truck was not chosen the first time he applied. He did, however, get in on it the next year. “It truly was an adventure of a lifetime”, he states. “During the entire 6 days of the event, we only encountered two problems—a rock hole in the trans pan and a shorted wire in the ignition switch. It was great to see how it performed in the event that ultimately pushed me to build it.”

Pat did share with us that his first real trip in the truck (even before the whole Ultimate Adventure experience) was a rip through the famed Rubicon trail, which he completed in one day—14 hours. The truck was mostly untested at that point, but he just had to get out there and match his build up against the realest of proving grounds.

“I couldn’t have made it to this point without seeing what Verne Simons did with his Willys truck first”, Pat says with great pride. “Once I got started with my truck, I gathered a lot of support from some very awesome manufacturers. A huge THANKS goes out to Milestar Tires, Skyjacker Suspension, TR Beadlock Wheels, Motive Gear, Rigid Industries, PowerTank and Warn Industries. Here is proof that you too can build a legit rock crawler in a two-car garage. Just make sure to measure the height of the door before you get started though.”

The Birth of An Industry: ’46 Jeep Willys

Hodson Motor’s 1965 Jeep J60 Dually:
One of a Kind, One at a Time

You’ve seen their trucks before (and are most likely obsessed with one or all of them if you’re anything like us). Their personal collection of insanely cool, larger-than-life custom pickup creations are definitely labors of love, and each one is an example of equal parts creative vision, healthy obsession and attention to detail and purpose.

Of course, we’re talking about the legendary father/son combo Derrick and Riley Hodson. The Hodsons call the outlying dessert landscape of Las Vegas home, which is just far away from the bright lights of the big city to give them all the peace and quiet they need in order to dream up these large-scale truck build before getting down and dirty bringing them to life.

Classic, rare medium-duty trucks are the Hodsons’ forte, and over the years, they have truly developed a design perspective that is uniquely their own—you’ll know a Hodson truck when you see it. The truck itself will be an industrial-grade pickup of some sort that wasn’t meant for the everyday consumer to hold the keys to, but that’s half of the appeal. Once the guys zero in on a truck they want, they located it, dig it out of its long-time place of rest, and apply their own special sauce to the equation. So far, this process has yet to let them down.

…you’ll know a Hodson truck when you see it…

Even though Derrick and Riley specialize in legitimate medium-duty trucks, they also like to drive the trucks they built—otherwise, what’s the point, right? To allow them to have a get more seat time behind one of their own creations, they sat down and developed what they now affectionately call the Jeep J60—essentially a 4-door J10 pickup. If you’ve never heard of this particular model before, don’t fret—it has never existed. Well, until now.

This particular project was designed to be more of a real-world daily driver. Now, don’t get us wrong—each and every one of their builds is painstakingly designed to function well on the road. Broken down, the Hodson’s Jeep J60 consists of a Jeep Wagoneer 4-door that has been sliced at the back of the cab and sealed up with the back wall of a J10 pickup cab grafted in. The rear doors received a great deal of metalwork to further give this creation the appearance of a true 4-door pickup.

…each and every one of their builds is painstakingly designed to function well on the road…

The front of the cab features a 60’s-era Gladiator grille that resides front and center, as well as wide front fenders from Autofab. The rear features a custom bed, a big side step tailgate, and step side fenders that have been widened a whopping 10 inches! The paint color of choice that makes all those cool customizations gel in complete harmony is Ford Raptor Lead Foot grey—and man, does it look good.

Paint isn’t the only Ford component to be incorporated into the creation of the J60, however, as the full-custom body was laid atop a 2004 Ford F450 dually chassis complete with a 6.0 Powerstroke engine and 5-speed automatic transmission. This truck sounds just as good as it looks with that big diesel rumbling underneath the hood, and to give the truck the oversize appearance that is synonymous with all Hodson trucks, 22-inch American Force wheels covered in 37X13.50R22 Milestar Patagonia X/T tires were bolted into position. The roll bar the guys went with is as burly as it looks—even more so, actually. While a lot of roll bar setups are fabricated out of hollow tube pipe, the stuff used here is solid through and through.

Hopping up into the cab is made easier with AMP Research Powerstep running boards, and with just one glance inside the cab, you’d be blown away by how clean the interior space is. Black and grey upholstered seats and other paneling from TMI Products helped make all the difference in updating and upgrading the entire confines of the J60. Creature comforts are never spared in any of the Hodson one-off pickups. While this truck already boasts an impressive lineup of high-end amenities, the guys wouldn’t dare one of their projects be considered finished without Dakota Digital gauges, a full audio system, power windows and door locks, and of course, ice cold A/C.

While the J60 is hardly alone as the single shining star in the deep Hodson stable, it does stand as one of their favorites. This truck does get a little more road time than some of the others, but that was the point of building it. Unless the guys are just planning to go for a cruise without making many (if any) stops, any selection from their lineup would do just fine, but the J60 has been dialed in to give them everything they love to put into their projects, in a slightly more compact package—even through there’s really nothing small about it.

Five years have been invested into this build, and a talented supporting cast in Nefarious Customs, 6651 Customs, Airth Defined, Cheyenne Ruether, Jeeprecyclers.com, and more were sourced to bring it all together. Trucks like these don’t just appear out of nowhere—they require a lot of imagination, skill, patience, and a sh*tload of parts.

The Differential Difference

Adding the Right Traction to Your 4WD Truck

Before we dive right into how to turn up your truck’s traction ability, let’s first ponder a question that should be answered honestly. How do you anticipate driving your truck? Will it spend most of its time on the road, and will the off-roading you do plan on doing be mostly on gravel or compacted dirt? Will you be doing any driving on icy, snowy or wet conditions on pretty advanced off-road terrain? Do you anticipate driving through trails where very uneven ground, rocks and other obstacles and holes will be present? Taking these questions into consideration will greatly impact your decision-making when looking to upgrade your truck’s differential system(s). 

If you answered ‘yes’ to the first question above—congratulations! If you plan on sticking to mostly streets and highways or surfaces that are hard but not technically paved stretches of land, you really don’t have to worry about messing with your truck’s factory-equipped open differential, which is great. We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is. 

We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is…

For those who answered ‘yes’ to the second and/or third questions with the anticipation of driving through surfaces impacted by inclement weather that also feature more severe terrain, then you might want to consider shopping around for limited-slip or locking differentials. There are plenty out there to choose from, and it is best to still keep your personal driving scenario in mind when wading through these waters. 

Now, also keep in mind that whichever type of traction-adding components you choose will have a direct effect on different types of driving, wherein lies the importance of staying true to what you will actually be using your truck for. Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely. 

Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely…

Most light off-road duty adventures will be greatly improved with a rear limited slip differential, or better yet both a rear and front limited slip. These are the most widely used and common types of diffs since they cover such a wide application spectrum. What the limited slip does is shift a percentage of the torque to the wheel that has the most traction while limiting the slip on the wheel experiencing the least amount of traction (the one that is stuck in the air or free spinning on a patch of black ice). Torque is not always balanced between the wheels here, which will allow your truck to power through less than ideal surface situations with less of a chance of getting stuck. Icy, wet or uneven ground will pose less of a threat with the limited slip differential, so if you plan on encountering any of these foes on a regular basis, this traction-adding upgrade will definitely be money well spent. 

A locking differential will take your rig further than any limited slip setup can—no question. Now, do you absolutely, positively need to install a locker? Well, that all depends on if you want the power of a true 4×4, which means that all four wheels are getting power to the ground. Anything less than that might very well leave you stranded when attempting to take on some serious mud pits or extremely rough country. If you still plan on driving your truck on regular surface streets when you’re done on the trail, you’ll want to look into selectable lockers specifically. This will allow your truck to fire on all 4 wheels while off-roading, while still having the ability to flip back to an open or standard (stock) diff configuration with the flip of a switch. You’ll be able to beat the piss out of it off road, and still actually be able to drive it comfortably on surface streets just like normal. 

Within the realms of limited slip and locking differentials are other options to consider, naturally. There isn’t one system out there that can meet the demand of every driver of every truck for all conditions, so don’t get your hopes up. If you know and understand exactly what you’re asking of your truck, however, then you should already have a better idea of what side of the traction fence you’ll need to invest time and money into. The rest is merely addressing the details of personal preferences in order to fine-tune your driving experience. 

Will the Jeep Always Be the Overlanding Champ?

When it comes to off-road capabilities, few vehicles are in the same league as the venerable Jeep. The Jeep was a pioneer in off-road travel, and has been at the forefront of 4 wheeling for decades. The Jeeps usefulness in most any off-road driving situation is unquestionable, but what about its strengths, and weaknesses when it comes to overlanding?      

Some will say overlanding is just a fancy word for camping, while others say it’s more complicated than that.

Overlanding has become extremely popular in the last several years. One reason why it has such a huge following is because it cannot really be defined. It covers such a wide spectrum of vehicles, and pursuits, it allows almost anyone traveling off-road to fit under the overlanding umbrella. You can overland in a million dollar, six wheel drive house on wheels, or an all-wheel drive car with good tires. All it takes are good tires, and some off-road driving skills.

Some will say overlanding is just a fancy word for camping, while others say it’s more complicated than that. For me, the definition of overlanding is being capable of off-road travel while being fully self-contained. You should be able to support all your needs for several days or weeks without the benefit of running water or power from the grid.

Overlanding should not be confused with Boondocking. Boondocking is also being self-contained, and miles from support, but typically when you are boondocking you are staying at a destination. Overlanding is more about traveling to and from destinations.

The emphasis is on the trip, not necessarily the destination. With that in mind, the perfect rig for overlanding lies somewhere in between the all-wheel drive car, and the huge motorhome that may have 4wd, and some off-road capabilities. The region where you are overlanding also places confines on the configuration of a suitable overlanding rig. A 30 foot long, 12 foot high, and 8 foot wide truck based rig is just fine in the wide open desert, but would be tortuous in tight, off-camber trails deep in the forest canopy. In comparison, the all-wheel drive car fits on even the most overgrown 2 tracks you will find in the East. It’s also right at home on the many dirt roads found in the southwestern United States. The problem with a small car-based vehicle is that you lack the rugged construction, power, and ground clearance of a truck. You also run out of space quickly.

It won’t take long to exceed both the space limitations, and the weight carrying capacity of your car-based overlander; even with your titanium spork, and carbon fiber lawn chair.

One of the harsh realities of overlanding is “where do I put all this stuff?” If you are going to be spending the week in the cool mountains you can probably get away with less water than you would in the desert. The National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine have determined that in a temperate climate a person should drink between 3 and 4 liters of water per day to stay hydrated. That’s a gallon or so a day per person, in mild temperatures, and without exertion. If you are participating in strenuous labor (like chopping firewood, shoveling dirt, or changing a flat tire), obviously your intake needs to increase as you sweat it out.

Just as notable, if you are in a hot desert, or humid forest, your needs will also be increased. Let’s say you are on the high end of the scale and need twice the recommended water just for hydration; we are not including washing, or cooking needs. For a 7 day trip that’s 14 gallons of water per person. With the weight of water being 8.34 lbs. per gallon, that’s 116 lbs. of water you need to carry per person. Then you need food, tools, gear, spare parts, sleeping accommodations, kitchen utensils, etc, etc. It won’t take long to exceed both the space limitations, and the weight carrying capacity of your car-based overlander; even with your titanium spork, and carbon fiber lawn chair.

On the other end of the spectrum is the huge truck based camper. You have the space, and the weight carrying capacity to haul all that water, but you also have to push the weight. On the big heavy trucks fuel becomes an issue. Gasoline is only 6.3 lbs. per gallon, but you’ll have to carry a lot to have any range. The big rigs are right at home in open spaces, but navigating narrow canyons, or tight trails can be extremely challenging when you’re 12 feet tall, 8 feet wide, and have the turning radius of an ocean liner.

Clearly the best rig for overlanding is something in the middle of these two extremes. You want it to be small enough to navigate tight trails, but with ample ground clearance, and strong suspension components. It needs to get good fuel mileage, and enough capacity for extended range. It has to have enough room for cargo, and still be comfortable for passengers. It needs the strength of a truck chassis to handle the weight, and not twist itself to the point of failure. It’s also beneficial to be able to tow a trailer, and to have secure frame attachment points for recovery. Finally, it has to have a big enough platform to either sleep inside, or mount a realistically sized rooftop tent.

When you add it all up, nothing really compares to the venerable Jeep. Now I have to admit, the earlier CJ’s, and their short wheelbase cousins are lagging when it comes to cargo space, and room for passengers, but the longer wheelbase Jeeps (Don’t forget the Scramblers), are perfect for overlanding. They have all the capabilities off-road to get you through any terrain, and all the aftermarket support to build whatever you desire. Jeeps Trail Rated® designation means that it’s able to perform in a variety of challenging off-road conditions. The criteria include five performance categories: traction, ground clearance, maneuverability, articulation and water fording. Straight off the dealer’s lot you can also have many options that you’ll need while overlanding like a 240-Amp Alternator, Class IV Receiver Hitch, and Heavy-Duty Engine Cooling.

With the launch of the new Gladiator, you can have the best of all worlds; comfortable space inside for people and supplies, and ample cargo capacity in the bed. When it comes to the best overlanding configuration, the versatility of the Jeep can’t be beat. Until something else comes along, it will continue to be the undisputed champ.

What’s the Big Difference Between a Jeep JK and a Jeep JL?

The Jeep scene changed forever when the JK Wrangler Unlimited hit the automotive market in 2007. Jeep was no stranger to capable 4-door off-road vehicles, but the new Wrangler was different. Taking the iconic powers of the previous generations of Wranglers and CJs and transforming them into a more family and daily-life friendly vehicle made a huge impact.

JKs popped up everywhere. Jeep couldn’t make enough of them. The suspension was improved, and extra creature comforts were added. The term “mall-crawling” became a thing because the popularity of the vehicle reached far more demographics of buyers. Loads of people who wouldn’t normally buy a Wrangler were now all over them. It is very possible that the JK Wrangler saved the Jeep brand from total collapse.

After a twelve-model year run, ending with a 2018 model, the JK Wrangler was the most produced and sold Jeep of all time. The vehicle saw various upgrades through its stretch but by-and-large was still the same vehicle. With such a popular vehicle, how could the Jeep engineers and designers top it for the next version of the vehicle?

The JL Wrangler hit showroom floors for the 2018 model year, right alongside the final days of the JK. For non-Jeep folks, the JL Wrangler Unlimited looks just like a JK on a passing glance or with blurry eyes.

What’s the Difference?

The two models look so similar, it is easy to question what the difference between them really is. We are going to explore those differences here.

Exterior: The JK is a classic body-on-frame construction. All the sheetmetal is steel, with lots of classic CJ cues. The JL, however, brought in weight saving aluminum for the doors and various other non-structural pieces. Sheetmetal changes were mostly cosmetic. Turn signals moved to fender flare from grille, pull handles instead of push buttons, rear license plate moved from body to bumper, trivial things that don’t have much impact of the versatility of the vehicle alone but when added up, make a difference.

Four door models of the JL were lengthened by four inches, two inches for two door models. Both stayed the same body width. The longer body allows for more interior space and better passenger comfort.

Another beneficial change to the new model is the fender flares and wheel wells. A larger than factory tire is easier to fit on a JL than a JK, especially for Rubicon (and some Sahara) models. Rubicons get special higher clearance fender flares that offer 2-inches more tire clearance.

Watch Brittany Williams of LiteBrite on Youtube sharing what she likes about the Jeep JL Wrangler:

The doors and tops are removable on both models, minus one JL top option, the Sky One-Touch top. Later JK models had an option of a soft top, standard black hard top or a color matched top. JLs continued the same trend and added the Sky One-Touch top that has removable rear quarter windows and a push-to-retract fabric center in the roof.

JK Wranglers have fold down windshield components but require disassembling the exterior of the A-pillar (6 bolts on each side) along with disconnecting roll bar attachment points near the windshield visors. The JL Wrangler improved on this design by extending the roll bar to have A-pillar tubes. With this design, Jeep was able to no longer require the windshield to be load bearing in the event of a rollover and could make folding the windshield down much easier. Remove the windshield wipers and 4 bolts on the interior and it is down.

Interior: The passenger compartment was drastically redesigned and modernized. The gauge cluster has a much more digital aspect to it with a center screen that has settings to keep tabs on all sorts of different levels, functions and features. The stereo was shifted to a true infotainment system on most models, now with access to other controls and features that were inaccessible on JKs.

The seats, door panels and other miscellaneous bits inside were changed and small improvements were made. The rear cargo area now has an optional Trail Rail Cargo Management system. The system allows for easier load strapping along with options to add other mounts and racks.

Powertrain: In 2012, the JK was upgraded to the Pentastar 3.6L V6 engine. Though smaller in displacement than its predecessor, the 3.6L is more efficient and has a strong horsepower and torque output. The same engine continued to the JL with minor changes that are mostly in the computer programming. A Stop/Start system was added to help increase fuel efficiency.

Later in the first model year, the JL Wrangler could be purchased with a 2.0L T4 Hurricane turbocharged inline 4-cylinder engine. The JK Wrangler had only the one engine choice each year of its run. Diesel powered JLs are said to be available for the 2020 model year and talks of a Hybrid model have been buzzing around for some time.

Drivetrain: The JL Wrangler gets to benefit from the Torqueflite 850RE, an 8-speed automatic transmission. Previously, the JK used a 4-speed automatic for early models, then a 5-speed from 2012 on. The new transmission smoothed the drive considerably, allowing the computer to not hunt for the correct gear as much. The transfer case stayed the same on both Sport and Rubicon models.

Dana axle assemblies are used in both generations. The JK was much wider than the TJ Wrangler that preceded it, instead of widening the existing designs, Dana created new units with larger ring and pinion gear sets, axle shafts, axle tubes and more. They again upgraded the assemblies for the JL. Slightly wider, slightly bigger, and overall stronger.

The wheelbase was stretched approximately 1.5-inches on 2-doors and 2.5-inches on 4-doors.

Suspension: Both the JK and JL are set up with solid axles and a 4-link plus track-bar suspension design front and rear. The lengths of the control arms stretched minor amounts and some other small tweaks were made to mounting ends for smoother movement through the range of travel. The JK Wrangler had already received much longer and stronger control arms over the TJ Wrangler. For the most part, the suspension was left alone.

In the End, Which Is Better?

At the end of it all, which is the better vehicle? That all depends on what you want out of it. At this point, JK Wranglers are starting to drop in price. They are highly capable vehicles that have a long timeline for bugs being worked out by both the factory and the aftermarket enthusiasts. JL Wranglers are slightly bigger, more creature comforts, better efficiency along with a higher price tag.

2020 Jeep Wrangler JPP 20 Flaunts MOPAR’s All-New Jeep Performance Parts

Feb 7, 2020 – There’s no doubt that the Jeep aftermarket industry is alive and kicking—when’s the last time you’ve even seen a bone stock Jeep driving down the Highway?

The thriving scene makes it really easy to get your hands on cool parts at a relatively inexpensive price. Jeep, however, wants owners to see the extensive list of parts offered by their aftermarket performance parts division, MOPAR.

This is where Jeep stepped in and created a custom version of their 2020 Jeep Wrangler JPP (Jeep Performance Parts) 20 to debut at the Chicago Auto Show. This fully custom Wrangler showcases a large array of parts to target off-road enthusiasts.

Mark Bosanac, Head of MOPAR Service, Parts and Customer Care for FCA – North America, says that the JPP 20 “is a ‘check-all-the-boxes’ off-road vehicle for enthusiasts.”

This Limited-edition Wrangler will come equipped with a 2-inch lift kit, LED light packages, a Rubicon Warn Winch, and much more.

What are your thoughts—will this 2020 Jeep Wrangler JPP be a game changer?

What Are Beadlocks?

What are beadlocks, and what do they do? You might have heard the term beadlock used or seen the unique wheels on an offroad vehicle. Beadlock wheels are used in several types of racing, especially on dirt. Their look is distinctive due to the circle of bolt heads that run around the face of the outer rim. They look so good that many wheel manufacturers have copied the look without using the actual locking bead design. It gives any vehicle a purpose-built offroad appearance.

Real beadlock wheels provide an important function; they keep the tire bead locked to the rim. Typically the air pressure in your tires forces the tire bead into the lip on the wheel creating a seal that holds the air pressure in the tire. That design works well on the pavement where full air pressure is needed. When air pressure is too low on pavement, excessive heat is created, and tire failure is possible. Offroad vehicles sometimes run lower air pressure in the tires to allow a much larger contact patch on the ground; increasing traction. In deep sand and snow, the larger contact patch helps the tire to float on top instead of digging in which can get you stuck. Lower air pressures offroad will also give you a smoother ride, and allow the tire to flex over sharp rocks. A little give in the tire can prevent punctures from sharp rocks, especially in the sidewall. When rubber goes against rock, the rock usually wins. If you are going to run lower pressures, a beadlock wheel is necessary to prevent the tire from spinning on the wheel, or from losing air pressure all together. Once the tire bead becomes unseated, the tire can get damaged, and all traction is lost. If the tire comes apart, it can wrap around the suspension, rip off your brake line, or cause other damage to your shocks, steering, or body panels.

There are several types of beadlock wheels available. The most common style is the bolt-on outer ring. This style has a machined lip on the outside of the rim to locate the tire bead. Once the tire is slid onto the wheel, the outside tire bead rests on the machined lip. The locking ring then goes on top. Bolting the ring to the wheel clamps the tire bead to the rim and creates an air tight seal.

Military wheels use a different design. Instead of the ring clamping the bead to the wheel, they are more of a two-piece wheel with a cylinder that slides over the barrel of the rim. The tire goes on the wheel first. Then the cylinder is slid over the wheel inside the tire. When the outer rim half is bolted down, it clamps the inner cylinder between both inner and outer beads of the tire. The width of the inner cylinder needs to be matched to the thickness of the tire beads in order to work as desired.

Similar to the military style in concept, as it clamps both beads to the rim, a third design uses an inflatable bladder inside the tire. The bladder sits inside the tire on the barrel of the rim. Once inflated, it pushes out on both tire beads. This style can be used on most non-beadlock wheels. All that is needed is another valve stem added to the wheel in order to fill the bladder.

No mention of beadlocks is complete without discussing the elephant in the room. Every automotive forum online has a thread discussing whether or not beadlocks are street legal. Maybe the confusion comes from the old style wheels known as split rims. Split rims have a ring that sits between the tire bead, and a slight lip on the outside of the wheel. Air pressure seats the split ring against the lip on the rim. Split rims are notorious for coming apart when air pressure pumps up the tire. When they were used, the rim and tire were placed in a steel cage to contain the flying parts if the ring flew off. People were injured; even killed by split rims. That’s why they were phased out. The split rim is still used on heavy equipment tires, but you will not find them on anything but vintage vehicles. Most tire shops refuse to work on them. Tire shops don’t like beadlocks either, but one of the benefits of the beadlock design is that you can mount tires without any special equipment.

Beadlock rings are not illegal, but they can be dangerous if proper diligence is not used.

Generally, there are no laws that specifically outlaw beadlock wheels. At the same time, they do not satisfy the standards that have been adopted by many wheel manufacturers due to their multi-piece design. Beadlock rings are not illegal, but they can be dangerous if proper diligence is not used. Care needs to be taken during assembly. If the bolts are overtightened they can stretch, and fail. If they are not tight enough, the tire can move, and lose pressure. It’s important to tighten the bolts evenly, and to the correct torque value. Each manufacturer has their own standards depending on the bolts used, and the construction of the wheel. Some beadlock wheels have threaded steel inserts for the bolts. Other wheels have been heat treated to a condition that makes the aluminum able to hold a thread. Of course, there are steel beadlock wheels as well. If the tire bead is very thick, spacers may be needed between the rim and the beadlock ring. You don’t want a gap between the ring and the wheel as the tire bead can still flex. The bolts need to have the proper torque on them in order to work. If the bolts fail, the ring can fly off; a dangerous condition.

Once you get the hang of it though, it’s really simple. That’s another benefit of the beadlock design. If you get a flat tire, you can take the wheel apart, patch the tire, and then put it back together in the field. It will take some work; most beadlock wheels have 20 to 30 bolts. Another benefit of the ring style beadlock is the ring itself. It adds strength to the outer lip of the wheel. If you are grinding your wheels in the rocks all the time, you can replace the rings when they get gouged or worn down. When you look at the pros, and cons, beadlocks have a lot to offer on an offroad vehicle.

The Jeep: From Willys to Wrangler

How the World’s Most Famous Go-Anywhere Vehicle Earned Its Stripes

If you had to pick a single candidate for “the most American car ever,” there are a lot of potential candidates. The Corvette would be near the top of the list—it’s always been “America’s sports car” from the original C1 racers at LeMans through the iconic split-window 1963 model and the C3 that defined the Apollo Era of American exceptionalism (and endured the dark days of smog restrictions and gas lines), all the way up to today’s C7 and upcoming mid-rear-engine C8 supercar.

You could also make a case for the Ford Mustang that launched the Pony Car wars and spawned the Camaro and Challenger, or the “shoebox” Chevy sedans that became a favorite of hot rodders. The original muscle car, the Pontiac GTO, would also be on the shortlist, and even the Ford Model T would be a strong contender, thanks to the way it put car ownership in the reach of the working class and created the impetus for America’s shift from roads designed for horse-drawn conveyance to ones better-suited for cars and trucks.

But out of all the possibilities, in the end there’s only one vehicle that truly deserves the title—the Jeep. In continuous production (and continually popular) since 1941 and showing no signs of ever falling out of favor, the iconic off-roader is the one motor vehicle that stands above the rest. Born in the shadow of looming global conflict, the original Jeep served admirably in the Arsenal of Democracy, transitioned to civilian life as a workhorse for farmers and ranchers, and evolved into a status symbol that never lost its off-road credibility.

While “Jeep” grew from a single, scrappy 4×4 light scout car into an entire brand that has encompassed multiple different platforms over the years, including today’s unibody SUV and crossover vehicles, what we’re really interested in is the MB, CJ, and Wrangler models that are first to mind when you hear the name “Jeep.” Here is their story.

Flat Fenders

The vehicle we know today as the Jeep began its existence as a US Army specification for a “Truck, ¼ ton, 4×4” just prior to America’s entry into the Second World War. Post-WWI, the country’s armed forces had been significantly drawn down and reorganized, and many experiments were in progress to determine how new technology would make the next conflict different from the static trench warfare that characterized the Great War.

…the original Jeep served admirably in the Arsenal of Democracy, transitioned to civilian life as a workhorse for farmers and ranchers, and evolved into a status symbol that never lost its off-road credibility.

Light trucks and cars had shown promise toward the end of that war as a way to conduct reconnaissance, quickly move troops, artillery, and supplies, and generally, replace the large numbers of horses that had previously done most of the heavy lifting. The Army had a number of vehicles already in development or production that ranged from a half-ton to 7.5 tons in payload capacity, but a need was recognized for a smaller, more agile vehicle in the quarter-ton capacity range for the reconnaissance and liaison role.

American Bantam, a manufacturer with a somewhat-troubled history of bankruptcy but plenty of experience with small cars, and Willys-Overland, another faltering Depression-era builder and seller of small cars, endeavored to produce prototypes to meet the somewhat-unrealistic specifications set out by the Ordinance Technical Committee: 4-wheel drive, a crew of three, a 75-inch wheelbase and 47 inch track width, a fold-down windshield, 660-pound payload, and an engine with a minimum of 85 pound-feet of torque, all weighing in at a scant 1,300 pounds empty. Oh, and by the way, bids were required in 11 days, with a deadline of 49 days for the first prototype and 75 days to deliver 70 test vehicles.

While Willys was the low bidder, they were passed over in favor of Bantam when they couldn’t commit to the incredibly short deadline, and the Army moved ahead with the project. Over the course of development, Willys and eventually Ford became involved, as Bantam didn’t have anything close to the production capacity that would be required for full-scale manufacturing. The specification evolved from the ridiculously-light 1,300-pound weight goal to a more sensible 2,160-pound maximum, and Bantam ended up being edged out of the project as the Willys MB and Ford GPW became the definitive production models, with the US Army securing the patent for what would be known as the WWII Jeep in 1942.

Over the course of the war, Willys would manufacture more than 360,000 MBs and Ford would build another 280,000-plus GPWs. Ford being Ford, while parts were mostly interchangeable between the two, many of the parts produced by Ford would be stamped with a stylized cursive capital letter “F” in the same font as the Ford logo.

Post-War Production

With the Second World War drawing to a close, and all of America’s manufacturing corporations eyeing the future beyond the massive expansion they’d experienced since 1941, Willys-Overland was keen to find a way to turn the MB into something that could be sold on the civilian market. In 1944 with victory in sight, they began to work on prototypes for the “Civilian Jeep,” or simply CJ, mainly consisting of removing military-specific details like blackout lights and adding a tailgate. The initial conversions would later be referred to as the CJ-1, though none have survived and details are scant. The follow-on CJ-2 prototypes would be another limited experiment with only a few scores produced for internal company testing of more civilian-friendly modifications, and a few still exist today.

These led to the CJ-2A, the first true production civilian Jeep, which introduced the now-trademarked 7-slot vertical grille (previous models had 9) and was primarily intended for the agricultural market with a wide range of factory accessories like winches, snow plows, mowers, and even welders powered off of the engine’s PTO mount. More than 200,000 were sold between the end of the war and 1949, in a bewildering array of possible configurations that have become a collector and restorer playground/nightmare.

The next model, the CJ-3A, debuted in 1949 and included more detail changes to improve the transmission, axles, and suspension, and was adopted to replace the now-elderly wartime MB and GPW Jeeps in US military service as the Willys MC, designated the “Utility Truck, M38.” 130,000 or so were produced before being replaced by the CJ-3B in 1953, with more minor changes. Kaiser (yes, the same car manufacturer that eventually spawned the healthcare company) bought Willys-Overland that same year, and licensing of the Jeep design was expanded from Mitsubishi (who had produced the 3A in post-war Japan exclusively for police and other government use) to also include Mahindra in India, who would continue to grind out CJ-3B-based vehicles all the way through 2010.

The CJ-4 moniker was applied to a stillborn concept project in 1950-51, so the next Jeep model the world would see was the CJ-5. In various versions, it would remain in production from 1955 to 1983, and it soldiered on through many changes – not the least of which came when Jeep was sold to American Motors Corporation in 1970. In military service it would be known as the M38A1, and in 1972 AMC engaged in a major revision to the platform that increased the wheelbase by 3 inches, added overall length, and increased the size of the engine bay to accommodate both a 304 cubic inch V8 and 3.8 and 4.2 liter straight six engine options.

…Jeep fans absolutely lost their minds, with the YJ being panned by hardcore enthusiasts as an unworthy successor to the legendary CJ series.

AMC’s marketing increasingly targeted mainstream buyers instead of the agricultural and utilitarian appeal previous Jeeps had cultivated. Multiple appearance, accessory, and performance packages were offered, leaning heavily toward the stickers-and-stripes design ethos of the 1970s and early ‘80s.

A stretched-wheelbase version of the CJ-5 was designated as the CJ-6 and was produced between 1955 and 1981, but most of the 50,000 or so units made ended up overseas, with US availability ending in 1975. As a hint of things to come, a 4-door version was available, but never caught on domestically. The definitive “Civilian Jeep” model, the CJ-7, debuted in the 1976 model year in the US in production that overlapped its predecessor. It was visually distinctive from the CJ-5 primarily due to different door cutouts, but also featured changes to the ladder frame beneath the bodywork that allowed wider placement of the rear leaf springs for more chassis stability—the CJ-5 had been somewhat unfairly faulted for being dangerous in sudden obstacle avoidance maneuvers, and the suspension improvements were intended, in part, to address that issue. As the last of the classic Jeep models that could draw their lineage directly to the original WWII MB and GPW, almost 380,000 were built before the sun set on the CJ series in 1986.

Meet the Wrangler

For 1986, AMC (now owned by French auto conglomerate Renault) introduced a mostly-clean-sheet replacement for the CJ-7 named the Wrangler, with the internal chassis code YJ. The redesign continued the trend toward more safety and comfort features, but retained the Jeep essentials—leaf-sprung live axles front and rear, body-on-frame construction, a folding windshield and removable doors, and a strong bias toward off-road competence over everyday practicality. Nevertheless, Jeep fans absolutely lost their minds, with the YJ being panned by hardcore enthusiasts as an unworthy successor to the legendary CJ series. The distinctive square-headlight Wrangler continued in production through the purchase of the Jeep brand by Chrysler in 1987, with total production topping 685,000 units before the final 1995 production year.

Remaining 1995 YJ production models continued to be sold through the “missing” 1996 Wrangler model year, and the new TJ made its debut for 1997. Bowing to the power of nostalgia, the new Wrangler went back to round headlights, but introduced a major change to the suspension in the form of coil springs in place of the front and rear leaf spring setup that dated back to 1940. Once again, Jeep purists were enraged, but the Wrangler gained another major improvement in everyday on-road practicality in exchange for essentially no loss of off-road competence. The top engine option remained as a modernized 4.0L version of the venerable AMC straight-6, with 4-cylinder power in base models. A “Wrangler Unlimited” model, still retaining the 2-door body configuration but stretched 10 inches in wheelbase and 15 inches overall compared to the standard TJ, debuted for 2004, offering better room in the back seat and greatly improved towing capability.

TJ production wrapped up in 2006, and Jeep introduced the JK Wrangler for the 2007 model year. While still retaining live axle suspension and styling that was very similar to the TJ, the JK was a complete redesign that was wider and longer in wheelbase (though shorter overall) than its predecessor. Most importantly, the Wrangler Unlimited, AKA the JKU, introduced a true 4-door option with a 20-inch longer wheelbase while being less than 3 inches longer overall than the previous TJ Unlimited. This decision turned out to be hugely successful, with the overwhelming majority of JK buyers opting for the 4-door Unlimited model. Finally giving in to the inexorable march of progress, hardcore Jeep fans have embraced the JK/JKU, and the aftermarket has shown incredible enthusiasm for the third-gen Wrangler with an enormous variety of suspension, engine, and body upgrades.

For the 2018 model year, Jeep introduced the JL, which continues the tradition of body-on-frame construction and live front and rear axles, with more concessions to the luxury and comfort features buyers of the increasingly-expensive Wrangler have come to expect. While it remains the most competent off-road domestic vehicle you can buy off the showroom floor, especially in “Rubicon” trim, today’s Wrangler has come a very, very long way from the tiny “go-devil” known to US troops in WWII. Over the past eight decades, Jeeps have gone from a thrown-together way to haul a few soldiers and their gear across inhospitable terrain to luxury mall-crawler and every point in between. In the process, they’ve become the most uniquely American form of transportation, recreation, and personal expression, and there’s no end in sight.

38 Inch Special:
A Guide to 38 Inch Tires

Go into any current forum or social media group for Jeeps and 4x4s and you will find the most frequently asked question is “How big of a tire can I fit on my *insert 4×4 here*?” The question is posed so frequently that the query is “stickied” to the top of the forum page with countless replies. “You can fit 35 inch tires if you have…” “37 inch tireswork, but only if you’ve done…” “You need tons in order to run 40 inch tires…” (“Tons” is shorthand for 1-ton axles sourced from a pickup). They’ve all been asked.

These seemingly universal 4×4 questions have been answered in their entirety, which we won’t get into here. The Jeep community has seen the 37×12.50R17 become the ubiquitous size on any new Jeep. Go back just over a decade and 37s were the extreme size tire to have and only a handful of brands to choose from. 33s and 35s were BIG, but 37s meant you were serious! So how did this desire for ever-larger tires come to be so common and why is there such a jump in size going from 37 inch tires to 40 inch tires with no choice in between?

In today’s tire world, nearly every tire manufacturer has an All-Terrain (A/T) and a Mud-Terrain (M/T) in a 33, 35, or 37 inch tire that fits on a 17 inch rim. These sizes have become a standard upgrade for several reasons. First is 4×4 vehicles are bigger than ever before with auto manufacturers adding extra space, seats, and cargo capacity. Second, with the added space and creature comforts comes the weight.

33s and 35s were BIG, but 37s meant you were serious!

Everything gets bigger from the drivetrain, axles, brakes, steering to handle the extra weight and still be a capable vehicle. This transition to more capacity and capability was lead by growing popularity in outdoor activities amongst families. With the vehicles and their components getting bigger and adding capability, enthusiasts took to modifying them with greater earnest and in greater numbers. One of the easiest ways to add capability is by gaining clearance through a larger tire size.

It can be argued that this rapid expansion in tire sizes was brought about by the advent of a single vehicle: the 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JK). It dropped the iconic Inline 6-Cylinder for a V-6 that was better suited to a minivan than a 4×4. The improved approach and departure angles showed enthusiasts that Jeep engineers were focused on making a capable vehicle.

But the one change that was seen as heresy initially and is now beloved: 4 full doors. Jeep aficionados scorned the longer Wrangler, thinking it more of a minivan than a true Jeep. But over time, the extra wheelbase lent itself to improved off-road capability, with the right modifications.

Chief among them: Larger tires. Tires are the only thing that connects the vehicle to the ground. They are the easiest and quickest way to gain ground clearance, improve approach and departure angles, and provide that oh-so-desirable “tough” aesthetic that many enthusiasts are after. But there is a canyon in terms of budgets between running a 40 inch tire and the ubiquitous 37 inch tire.

But the one change that was seen as heresy initially and is now beloved: 4 full doors.

40s are an average of 40-60% more expensive than their 37 inch tire counterparts, and a lot of expensive changes have to be made to the vehicle in order to reliably run a 40 INCH tire as well. So what does an owner do when they want more than their 37s, but can’t afford or justify the required upgrades for 40s? Enter the Milestar Patagonia 38 inch.

While the 38×13.50R17 is only one inch taller than its smaller sibling—the 37 inch, it pays off in ways that become greater than one would initially think. It poses less strain on the hard parts that turn and drive the tires when compared to 40 inch tires. The 38 inch tire size clears factory brackets and bumpers and keeps any sort of body modification to a minimum.

Wheel offset, suspension bump stops, steering, and fenders all can stay the same if the vehicle has been properly kitted for 37’s. Where 37’s provide a better “stance”, the 38 inch tire make the vehicle look like it has 40s. All of this is gained with a reasonable bump in price on just the tires. Not only is the 38 inch Patagonia M/T taller, but it’s a bit wider at 13.50 inch giving the wheeler that much more of a footprint.

The tires’ C-Load Range is also a nod to the recreational wheelers as it is commonly thought that having some sidewall give, while still being 3-ply, will allow the tire to “grab traction” or “bite” when aired down. This is further supported when one takes into consideration that tire manufacturers often modify the construction material of the plys depending upon the load the tire is expected to bear and how much air pressure it is rated for.

…the added capability of a 40-inch tire, without the 40-inch wallet.

Strength is upheld with the Patagonia, while being a more focused 4×4 product. At 82 pounds, the 38 inch Patagonia M/T’s optimized construction is shown as it is the same lighter weight as many of it’s 37 inch competitors. This is important because added unsprung weight negatively affects suspension performance and ride quality.

In addition, extra weight also brings down fuel economy and increases wear and tear on the drivetrain and steering components. The 38 inch Patagonia M/T is constructed to balance strength, size, and weight; all major factors when enthusiasts start their 4×4 project.

The 38 inch Milestar Patagonia M/T is the choice when one wants the added capability of a 40-inch tire, without the 40-inch wallet. It is tailor-made for the recreation wheeler with its strong, yet pliable sidewall, all-important 17″ wheel construction, and true 38 inch tire sizing. Your next question is simply where will you buy your set?

Is Dan Fresh’s JL Wrangler the Perfect Combination of Form and Function?

When the 2018 JL Wrangler debuted, the Jeep-world went into a frenzy. Vehicle sales were busy, just as many expected. The aftermarket parts industry spared no time getting started with the design and production of new parts. The new model is extremely capable and stylish, something Dan Fresh of OC Motorsports in Costa Mesa, California wanted to be on the forefront of.

Dan and his crew at OC Motorsports transformed a stock 2018 JL Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon into an upscale culmination of form and function. The team worked with many industry-leading aftermarket parts companies to design a Jeep that could hold its own on the 2018 SEMA Show floor and also be used as a flagship for OC Motorsports events, all while also set to be a dependable race support vehicle.

Dan Fresh is a racer at heart. Over the years, he has been heavily involved and raced in trophy trucks, Jeepspeed, Ultra 4 and many more facets of the racing world. That meant straight from the start that this Jeep would be top shelf.

For any performance vehicle to work as it should, it needs to have great components. Dan and his team worked closely with Fox Factory to set the Jeep up with a full round of newly designed 3.0 Internal Bypass Shocks. The massive shocks also feature finned aluminum recirculating reservoirs with DSC Adjusters for quick tuning.

Shocks like those need to have some grunt supporting them. A Savvy Off Road 3.5-inch suspension lift was installed, including adjustable control arms along with a Currie Enterprises Antirock anti-sway bar in the rear.

The new suspension gave clearance for a healthy set of 40-inch Milestar Patagonia M/Ts, wrapped around matte black 17-inch Method Trail Series 701 wheels. A combination that gives the vehicle both the ground clearance, stance, and raw gripping power a true performer demands. Because the Jeep often goes from off-road to the street and back again, an Innovative JK Products ARB Under Seat Mount with Air Up and Air Down Kit was installed.

The Rubicon differentials were treated to a pair of Dana 44 AdvanTek covers to protect the gears and lockers. The Jeep’s steering linkage was swapped for a Synergy Heat Treated Chromoly Tie Rod and Drag Link kit with the support of a Fox Factory ATS steering stabilizer system. The power and torque are brought to the differentials via a pair of JE Reel 1350 CV Driveshafts.

Attention was also put on the body of the vehicle. Protecting the rails are Rock Slide Engineering Step Sliders with automatic steps. A Savvy high clearance rear bumper was installed, along with a spare tire/camera delete kit. The front received a prototype Savvy Hidden Winch Bumper with Hoop for Dan to test out on the trails and race courses. The body wrap was installed by Versatile Wraps.

Desert racing and adventures require light when the sun goes down and when the unforgiving terrain doesn’t let up. To battle the darkness, a host of Baja Designs LP9 and XL80 LED lights were installed.

The powertrain has been left mostly stock for now, save for a MagnaFlow Rock Crawler Stainless Exhaust System. Though, with the immense capabilities of the OC Motorsports team, there shouldn’t be any surprise if a HEMI V8 finds its way under the hood in the future.

The amount of work done to Dan’s JL is impressive, even more so in that it was all completed in a matter of two days. After proudly standing tall at the 2018 SEMA Show, the Jeep has been on numerous customer appreciation trail runs, desert race testing trips and regularly driven on the street for commuting duties. Soon, the Jeep will be working hard as support for King of the Hammers, Best In The Desert and SCORE International races.

This likely won’t be the end of the modifications for this Jeep, but it is a stellar start out of the gate.

Crawlin’ With the Jeep Wrangler TJ

Jason Zamora’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ

When it comes to rock crawling, it’s not power that should be your focus as you build. Unless you’re racing in Ultra4, your rig should be reliable, able to articulate, have very low crawl gearing, and have very strong axles. Power means nothing if you can’t get over a boulder without breaking or crashing it. That’s why Jason Zamora’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ doesn’t have a ridiculous LS or Hemi swap – you don’t need it while crawling.

The Jeep Wrangler TJ was built by Engelhart and Moat (EM) Performance in Santa Fe Springs, CA, of which Jamie Moat talked to us about the build. “We wanted to build a fully capable Jeep with the best bolt-on part in the industry,” he said when we asked him about the build. The full build time was only four months, but the quality you see in not just the parts, but the finished product looks like a TJ that was built over several years. The mirror finish black paint job was done by One Off Rides Garage in Corona, CA and just doesn’t look like a paint job a crawler would have. That probably speaks more about the driving style of Zamora, though.

The engine is bone stock inside 4.0-liter AMC engine, an engine that is regarded as one of the best Chrysler engines ever built to power most any 4WD. Back then, it made 190-horsepower and 235-lb/ft of torque. Zamora’s probably makes about that or just better with the addition of a header and K&N intake system. The only other addition is the 100-amp alternator to drive the GGLighting 50-inch LED light bar and two-inch Pillar Pods, KC HiLites Rock Lights, Warn winch, stereo system with satellite radio, and ARB Compressor that sends air to the ARB Air Lockers.

The lift comes from a combination of a body lift with a front and rear Currie Enterprises Four-inch TJ Johnny Joint Suspension System. It features four-inch lift springs in combination with their adjustable upper and lower short arms that use Currie Johnny Joints, a rebuildable rod end joint that is stiffer than the rubber joints of the OEM control arms but not as teeth rattling as traditional rod ends. This also comes with adjustable front track bar, a rear trac bar relocation bracket, new polyurethane bump stops, and their Antirock adjustable front sway bar.

EM Performance also installed a set of Fox 2.0-inch diameter Performance Shocks. These are a set of monotube shocks that have an internal floating piston to separate nitrogen charged air from the oil. This eliminates oil aeration from pressure changes at the shock piston, which can happen from the oil boiling in the lower pressure areas of the piston’s travel. They feature better valving for off-road driving and on-road handling than the original OEM shocks.

That suspension connects to a pair of Dana 44 housings front and rear. Both also have ARB Air Lockers attached to 4.88:1 gears that spin the chromoly axle shafts. Those shafts are attached to Raceline Avenger Beadlock wheels in 17×9 with a 4.5-inch backspace (-13 offset, for you Euro and JDM wheel types). The beadlocks clamp down on a set of sticky Milestar Patagonia M/T tires in 37×12.50R17 all around. These tires have proven themselves at Ultra4 at places like the King of the Hammers and even racing at the Mint 400. Stopping this Wrangler TJ is an upgraded big brake kit while steering is handled by a Currie Currectlync Steering System with a Fox Steering Stabilizer damper on the tie-rod. The steering box is protected by a steel skid plate as, without it, it would be vulnerable to rock impacts.

With larger tires and increased suspension travel, you need to make room by modifying the body. For EM Performance and Jason, it was a call to GenRight Off-Road. For maximum front approach clearance, the stock bumper was replaced by a GenRight Stubby front bumper. Rear departure is increased by their Rock Crawler bumper and the GenRight tire carrier keeps the spare from contacting the ground in high-angle crawls. If needed, the rocker panels are protected by their Rock Sliders while the transfer case gets protection from their Belly Up Steel Skid Plate.

The fenders are no longer stock and tube versions from GenRight replace them as they open the fender areas for the bigger Patagonia M/Ts. However, to cover the inside of the front fenders, GenRight inner fender panels replace the TJ parts and helps keep air flowing through the radiator. Otherwise, the air would just flow around the radiator because that would be the easiest path. It also allowed the tube fenders to work without cutting the stock Wrangler TJ fenders.

While the passengers sit in the comfort of Mastercraft Suspension Race Bucket Seats up front and a suspension rear bench seat in the rear, they are fully protected by a GenRight Full Roll Cage. It bolts in place of the TJ cage but features far more protection by adding triangulation to the roll hoops and additional side impact strength at the A-pillar bars with a crossbar that fits over the stock TJ dashboard. They can drive without a cover or use the Spiderweb Shade made for the cage.

So, as you can see, power isn’t the factor that limits a vehicle’s crawling ability. Both the 2.5-liter and the 4.0-liter powered TJs can be made into respectable crawlers. That is if you put your money into the parts that matter like the tires, suspension, axles, and protection. Jason Zamora’s EM Performance built TJ is plenty proof of that concept. 

This Jeep Wrangler LJ Is Loaded to the Gills

Reid Nordin’s 2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited LJ

Reid Nordin’s 2006 modified Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited LJ is loaded with custom features to enhance its offroad capabilities, and to provide comfort for its occupants. The Jeep’s 4.0 liter inline 6 engine has been left mostly stock for reliability, but a relocated air box and custom cold air intake has been incorporated. The automatic transmission and transfer case also remain as delivered from the factory except for the addition of an external transmission cooler. Once the power makes its way down to the axles, the fun begins. Currie Rock Jock 60s with ARB Air Lockers reside at both ends. The front Rock Jock is engaged by Warn locking hubs. Getting the front axle to articulate is done with a Savvy Mid Arm suspension and Currie springs. The swaybar is a Currie Antirock with Walker End Links. Out back, the set-up is similar with the Savvy Mid Arm kit, Currie springs, and Currie Antirock swaybar. Walker Evans remote reservoir shocks with compression adjusters take care of the suspension damping. 17X8.5 Walker Evans Beadlocks are wrapped with 35X12.50-17 Milestar Patagonia M/T tires. PSC steering with Ram Assist keeps him pointed in the right direction.

Reid’s favorite spots to go 4 wheeling in his Wrangler LJ are Moab, Sand Hollow, and Ocotillo Wells. Playing in such diverse terrain, Reid needed a tire that would excel in all three and also be comfortable on the road. The Patagonia M/T was designed to be at home while rock crawling, exploring the desert, mud bogging, playing in the dunes, or a casual drive through mountain trails. The staggered, high void tread sheds mud, and special stone ejectors in the 3 ply sidewall help to eject rocks. The aggressive tread design is surprisingly quiet on pavement and has generous siping to shed water in wet conditions. 

With the traction to get into some challenging situations, some care was taken to protect the AEV Hi-Line hood, Poison Spyder Hi-Line aluminum front fenders, rear flairs, and flat candy green wrap by Platinum Paint Protection. Speaking of protection, Reid’s Jeep Wrangler LJ has full aluminum Belly up skid plates. The GenRight +5 gallon fuel tank is also protected by a GenRight steel skid plate. To protect the occupants, a GenRight weld in cage has been installed. The driver and passenger sit in Mastercraft Safety, Baja RS Seats and standard belts. The rear seat has been removed and a custom aluminum Storage box with above fender rack sits in its place; a favorite perch for Reid’s German Shepherd.

Lighting on the Wrangler LJ consists of Truck-Lite headlights, Laser Star driving lights, Gen-Right LED rear tail lights, and Gen-Right back up lights. The Optima Yellow Top battery powers a Magellan TRX7 GPS and Rugged Radio’s 2-way radio when the SSV WORKS full stereo system isn’t cranking out tunes. The Optima also supplies power for the Warn 9000 Winch with synthetic line and Factor 55 Fairlead with Flatlink. The Warn winch is mounted to a Currie front bumper. The Currie rear bumper has a Currie Swing out tire carrier to mount the spare, and Currie Rock Rails complete the impressive package. Reid Nordin’s Jeep is a perfect example of a well thought out rig that performs beautifully, on and off the road. Every modification was chosen to complement each other to provide a functional rig that works as well as it looks.     

Four Doors Are Better Than Two: Jeep JKU Wrangler

Bert Heck’s Jeep JKU Wrangler

The automotive world has a way of taking a serious hold on us. All it takes is being part of one facet of the culture to pull you into the rest, a gateway drug of sorts. That is exactly what happened with Bert Heck, and why he now utilizes a 2015 Jeep JKU Wrangler Unlimited.

Bert’s gateway was drag racing. For years it was his automotive sport of choice. Though he still enjoys the thrill of a dragster tearing down the track, Bert wanted something for when he wasn’t racing. A friend and co-worker talked him into purchasing a 1998 TJ Wrangler. It was built, lots of fun was had but Bert saw that the longer wheelbase rigs had the fun he’d prefer. Street-able and can wheel anywhere.

Over the span of a few months, Bert transformed his Jeep JKU Wrangler into the beast you see here. With a large amount of friends in the automotive aftermarket industry, Bert knew who to ask to point him down the right path for which parts to use. Their guidance helped the Jeep build go the way it did.

The Jeep is elevated by a front and rear EVO MFG Double D Pro Long Arm Suspension System sporting 2.5 King Coilovers, giving the Jeep a low center of gravity, 12-inches of clean and usable travel as well as having some of the strongest components on the market. Hanging off the ends of the long arms are a front Currie Enterprises RockJock 44 front differential and RockJock 60 rear.

To get ultimate traction no matter where the vehicle went, Bert bolted on a set of Method 101 Beadlock wheels wrapped in Milestar Patagonia M/T 37×12.50R17 at each corner. The Patagonia M/Ts are design for maximum traction, no matter where the vehicle goes, perfect for Bert’s wide range of uses for the vehicle.

To give the Jeep the body protection it deserves, a full range of Poison Spyder bumpers, rocker sliders and corner guards were installed, along with a Warn Zeon 12,000lb winch and a full RockHard 4×4 skid plate system. To keep the spare Patagonia M/T firmly planted to the vehicle, an EVO MFG Pro Series Hinged Gate Carrier was installed on the back end.

The 3.6L V6 powerplant and automatic transmission were left stock for reliability, with the exception of a K&N Engineering air intake and oil filter to give it a few extra ponies.

Keep your eyes peeled for this rig. Bert tends to take his Jeep JKU Wrangler anywhere he can. The pair are no stranger to trails in the West.