SBN All-Female Bronco Build Graces SEMA 2022

The Ladies at SBN Show off their Hard Work

The 2021 Wildtrak Bronco is beefed up with Ford’s Performance EcoBoost power pack performance calibration, TurboSmart Kompact EM Plumb Back Valve VR19, aFe Power Momentum GT Cold Air Intake with a Pro 5R Filter, and AWE Tuning 2.7L Cat Back Exhaust suite.

For the chassis, it’s fully equipped with ICON Vehicle Dynamic’s 3-4” Lift Stage 8 Billet suspension system, Bronco Duster stage 3 Billet Aluminum Housing and Bushing kit, and Steersmarts Yeti XM Bronco Rear Adjustable Track Bar.

It features a custom designed and installed wrap done by Terra Strada Design. Equipped with Advanced Fiberglass’ 2” flare, 1” rise fenders, quarters and ram air hood, Baja Forged’s full-size Crawler front and rear bumpers with full size skid plate, Warn VR EVO 10-S winch, Factor 55 Ultra hook and Cascadia 4×4 Hood Solar Panel, Air Compressor, TRED Pro Recovery Boards and Jack by ARB; 37” Spare tire mount, Ford Accessories LockNLoad roof rack, Yakima Skyline tent, Ford Research and Advanced Engineering Lit Bronco Grille, Oracle Lighting, Brackets & Switches, and MEK Magnetic products.

As for the interior, it is furnished with Katzkin Seat custom leather seat covers, Goose Gear rear seat delete and icebox module with storage drawer, Ford Performance 50 QT Classic Fridge by ARB, all-weather floor mats, Molly bags, and In Vehicle Console Vault by Ford Accessories.

It rolls on ICON Alloy’s 17″ Satin Black Thrust wheels wrapped in the all-new 37” Milestar Patagonia M/T-02 tires. Tying everything together are McGuard’s Black Lug Nuts with a custom engraved SBN logo.

Products and companies that supported the build include Ford Motor Company, PPG paint (Paint Supplies), Seymour Paint (Undercoating Products), Summit Racing (Miscellaneous Supplies), Adenna PPE Supplies, TRAC Tire assistant products, UTI Long Beach, CA (Paint Facilities), MRT Performance (Facilities, Fabrication & Paint Supplies), 5 0’ Clock Garage (Build Support & Miscellaneous Supplies), SEMA Garage (CA & MI Facilities), and Duralast Battery donated by AutoZone.

Milestar XPDN4 Cascadia: An Overland Trek Through Oregon’s Many Exciting Landscapes

Lifting Your Rig 101: What to Consider

When the manufacturer sets out to design and produce the latest model four-wheel drive (4wd) vehicle, they are required to balance many factors from vehicle weight to carbon footprint. These constraints force them to choose components that meet the desired platform goals but typically leave little room before modifications exceed the strength of the factory components. With an estimated +300 billion dollars being spent in the light truck and SUV aftermarket in 2022, its safe to say there are plenty customers looking to upgrade their 4wd vehicles and one of the first modifications most owners make to a 4wd after purchase is to add some type of suspension lift and larger tires.

For many, this is done merely for looks. For those who intend to use their newly purchased 4wd to take them on remote off-highway adventures or to tackle technical trails, a lift kit and larger tires is only the first step. What is soon discovered is that the additional tire size and weight create more stress on the suspension and drive axles. While most lift kit manufacturers take these additional factors into consideration during the development of the replacement suspension components, upgrading the drive axles for strength and performance is left up to the consumer to determine what and when.

For most the first step is to replace the factory ring and pinion (gear set) with one that provides a lower drive ratio. How low of a drive ratio you choose to install is determined by how you intend to use your 4wd. At minimum you want to install a gear set that lowers your gearing enough to match the final drive ratio your vehicle came equipped with from the factory. Matching the factory final drive ratio will return the performance lost by installing larger tires, yet in most cases it isn’t enough to noticeably improve the vehicles off-road capability. To do that we need to increase the torque being delivered to the tires as well as increase (lower) the vehicles crawl ratio. The simplest way to do that is to install an even lower ratio gear set. How low of a gear ratio you choose can often be limited to the type and model axles your vehicle is equipped with, but for most applications gears in the 4.56:1 or 4.88:1 (higher the number the lower the gear ratio) are the most common for vehicles with tires up to 37” diameter.

…additional tire size and weight create more stress on the suspension and drive axles...

Before you spend your money on replacing the axle gears, there is another upgrade to take into consideration that can be installed at the same time as your new axle gears. With few exceptions, the drive axles in your 4wd vehicle are equipped with an open differential. The differential is a component that consists of a carrier housing, that is driven by the ring gear, containing a set of gears known as spider gears which in turn drive the axle shafts. When traveling in a straight line the tires are turning at the same speed and equal power is transferred to both drive axles. However, when you turn, the outside tire has to travel a further distance than the inside. To accomplish this the spider gears inside the carrier, allow the outside tire to turn faster than the inside tire. While this design is great for most driving situations, it doesn’t lend itself to low traction situations because it allows the power to be transferred to the tire with the least amount of resistance. To increase a vehicle’s off-road prowess, replacing the factory differential with a mechanical traction control device, more commonly known as a locker can be extremely beneficial.

There are multiple options to choose from when it comes to lockers. The cheapest and most basic is the drop in or “lunch box” locker. The lunch box locker simply replaces the factory spider gears with specially machined interlocking components that engage (lock) when power is applied and disengage (unlock) when coasting. The design allows equal torque to be applied to the axles anytime the vehicle is under power. They are however only as strong as the factory cast iron carrier and are known to create erratic handling characteristics on pavement. Due to these characteristics, most people choose to only run them in the front axle which is typically disengaged when driving on the pavement. The next level up is the full case mechanical locker. More commonly referred to as the Detroit locker. These lockers replace the factory carrier and spider gears with a complete unit made from much stronger materials. The overall design functions similar to a lunch box locker and can lead to handling issues if used on the street. Most people choose to limit the installation of Detroit’s to vehicles that see very little road use. The most expensive option is the selectable locker. Available in electric, air, or cable actuation, selectable lockers give the owner the best of both on and off-road traction and handling. Similar to a Detroit, a selectable locker completely replaces the factory carrier. Once installed, they operate very similar to a factory open differential until the owner “engages” the locker. Once engaged, a geared collar slides into place and locks the differential creating equal traction to both wheels. Once the added traction is no longer needed, the driver can simply turn off or disengage the locker. Selectable lockers are most often installed in the rear, and are actually becoming more and more common as factory installed options on many current 4wd vehicles, but they work equally as well in the front axle.

Suspension Tech: Shock Reservoirs and Bypass Valves

Performance hydraulic shocks are both simple, and complicated at the same time. Both their function, and the parts they use are relatively simple, but it’s how they are configured that makes such a huge difference. First let’s look at what shocks do. The weight of the vehicle is held up by some type of spring (air, leaf, coil, or torsion bar). The shocks control the motion of the suspension. They do this by friction which causes heat. In essence, they do the same thing that your brakes do, but differently.

Hydraulic shocks are filled with special fluid that comes in different viscosities. Viscosity is a technical term for how thick, or thin the fluid is. The shock has a body, a shaft, and a piston. The piston is mounted to the end of the shaft which slides inside the bore of the shock body. As the shock is extended or collapsed, the shock fluid inside the body of the shock is forced through openings (ports) in the piston. These openings are covered by flat springs or shims that flex to either open or close the ports. As the fluid flows through the ports, it creates friction, and therefore heat, so it dissipates energy. This is commonly referred to as damping. The heat is then transferred to the air outside the shock. Shocks use thermodynamics, and fluid dynamics to control the movements of your suspension. Like I said, they are both simple, and complicated at the same time. 

Most factory supplied shocks, and inexpensive aftermarket shocks, have no external features. The common name for these shocks are smooth bodies, and it’s one reason why they are inexpensive. They still work the same way as the expensive shocks do, by forcing fluid through the ports in the piston. As the shaft moves in and out of the shock body, the piston moves through the fluid, and the shaft displaces the fluid. There needs to be room in the shock body for that shock fluid to go. On some shocks, they just leave enough air space for the fluid to move. If you are in rough terrain, and the shaft is moving in, and out quickly, the air in the shock body can mix with the fluid reducing the viscosity; creating emulsification. This causes the shock to fade. It can no longer provide the same damping. Your shocks will not be as effective until they cool down, and the air and fluid separate again. To prevent this, some shocks have a floating piston that separates the fluid, and the air. This prevents the fluid from foaming, but it takes up room in the shock. If you are using the factory supplied shock mounting locations, this will limit the amount of travel available for the shock to cycle.       

Most factory supplied shocks, and inexpensive aftermarket shocks, have no external features…

Once you start moving up in price levels, you will see external features like remote reservoirs, and bypass tubes. Both of these features are used to allow additional flow of the fluid inside the shock. Remote reservoirs can be attached to the shock body, or be mounted remotely by using a hose between the shock body, and the reservoir. For added strength, shock manufacturers will increase the diameter of the shock shaft. This then displaces even more fluid. With a remote reservoir, you have the necessary space to allow the additional fluid to be displaced, and you can add additional features that are not typically found on smooth body shocks. Most remote reservoirs have a floating piston, and a valve that allows you to charge the reservoir with compressed nitrogen. Nitrogen is used because it is more stable than oxygen; it expands less when it gets hot. This nitrogen pressure forces the floating piston against the shock fluid so no air bubbles form in the shock fluid. Increasing the nitrogen pressure can also be used as a minute tuning adjustment, but that’s a whole other article. Since fluid is moving from the shock body to the reservoir, some shocks will have an adjuster that controls that flow of fluid. It is one more opportunity to create adjustment to the shock. It allows you to change the damping of the shock by simply turning a knob. You can stiffen them up to control sway on the street, and then back them off so your suspension will travel freely when in the dirt.

When it comes to the ultimate in adjustability, you now have the bypass shock. There are internal, and external bypass shocks. Fluid bypass works on both the compression stroke (the shaft pushing into the shock body) and the rebound cycle (the shaft pulling out). First we will talk about a single, external bypass tube used in compression, and what it does. The bypass tube will be welded to the outside of the shock body. It has an intake port that allows fluid in, and an adjustable, one way valve on the opposite end of the tube that regulates fluid flow back into the shock body. As the piston moves during compression, it pushes fluid into the bypass tube. Depending on the way the valve is adjusted, it could be a lot of fluid, or very little. The more fluid through, the softer it will be, and vice versa. 

Now we can discuss what it means to be position sensitive. Let’s say you have 3 bypass tubes that work during the compression cycle, and the shock is completely extended. As the piston moves into the shock body it is pushing fluid into all three bypass port openings. The openings are strategically placed on the shock so each opening creates a zone. As the piston moves past an opening, no more fluid is moving through that tube. Depending on where the ports are located in the stroke, you can adjust the fluid flow according to the position of the piston. That makes the bypass ports position sensitive. You can make the shock progressively stiffer as it compresses, or several other configurations according to bypass tube placement, and number. The same is possible for the rebound cycle. 

When it comes to the ultimate in adjustability, you now have the bypass shock…

When it comes to bypass shocks, there is also an internal bypass configuration that uses port openings that are not typically externally adjustable. The internal bypass design has a sleeve inside the body where the piston rides. The sleeve has ports in it to allow fluid to flow through to the space between the sleeve, and the larger diameter of the actual shock body. 

We have only covered the basics of bypass, and external reservoirs. There are many different variations and unique applications to these basic concepts. When it comes to shock design, the best and the brightest have been experimenting for over a century. When it comes time to upgrade your shocks, be sure to talk to the experts at the shock companies as technology, and designs continue to advance. Both Fox, and Bilstein are making electronically controlled shocks that are even more intricate, and capable of fine adjustments.     

Top 5 Overlanding Necessities

1. Water

Water is a no-brainer because you cannot live without it. It is the most basic necessity regardless of where you are. It is used for drinking, washing, cooling your engine, and preparing food. Early transportation routes were laid out according to where clean water could be found. They were routed from one watering hole to the next. Those who like to go overlanding where water is abundant still need a way to filter it before drinking. There are all types of filtering devices from hand held straws, to elaborate reverse osmosis, or ultraviolet light emitting systems that can be mounted to your vehicle. Boiling the water is also an option, but that requires time, and fuel. If you are harvesting water along the way, you will need containers to capture, and store it. You don’t want to put filtered water back into a container that had untreated water in it, so you need more than one.

Those who are in dry locations will have to haul their water in. Any long term trips off the grid will be limited by the amount of water you use, or don’t use. There are many tricks to conserving water. One is to scrub pots and pans with sand or dirt instead of water. Just be sure to get it all off before your next meal. A gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds. Gasoline only weighs 6.1 pounds per gallon. Think of how sturdy gas tanks are built. Your water tanks need to be just as robust, and be mounted low on the vehicle, like fuel tanks, in order to keep your vehicle stable. If you are going to be overlanding, you need a reliable system in place.  

2. Tires

You need good tires when you head off road. They are the only thing between you, and the ground. Not only do your tires need to provide traction for forward progress, but they also give you control when stopping, and steering. In many types of terrain, you won’t get 5 feet without off-road tires. Street tires will get packed with mud or just spin in the sand without getting traction. Tires also need to be durable enough to resist getting punctures, or having the tread sliced to bits on the rocks. No matter how good your tires are, eventually you may still get a flat so make sure you have a good spare, and repair tools for fixing punctures. Getting double flats is not uncommon as you can hit the same impediment with more than one tire. Having a single spare tire won’t always solve your problem. There is a good reason why off road tires are almost always the first modification done. Good tires will make a huge difference in your ability to have fun in the dirt. 

In  many types of terrain, you wont get 5 feet without off-road tires…

3. First Aid Kit

When you think of first aid, many think bandages, and tape, but you also need to consider your vehicle’s requirements. You should have spare parts on board to fix common issues that regularly arise. Typical parts to carry are belts, hoses, fluids, fuses, and the tools needed to make repairs. Do some research on your vehicle to find out what fails over time, and what the repair job requires. I had a custom suspension on my prerunner that took some special bolts. I put together my own kit that had a new replacement bolt for every one used on my suspension. Over time your kit will grow to include all types of spares as you learn from experience. 

Once your vehicle has everything it needs to stay healthy, you can focus on passengers. There is a big difference between a simple first aid kit, and one that is capable of handling severe trauma. If a medical emergency takes place, chances are everyone will be stressed. Having a serious medical kit will not only be a huge benefit in treating the patient, but it will also give you solutions that will keep everyone calm. Number one is having enough materials to stop bleeding as it is an immediate problem. You will also need pain medications like aspirin or ibuprofen. Some antihistamine is crucial for swelling or bug bites, and disinfectant or antibacterial ointment is always good to have. If you are on medication, make sure you have more than what you need for your trip in case you get delayed. A good thing to do is consult your doctor. They will know what types of medications, and implements are best to have on hand. 

4. Navigation

We all go overlanding in the first place to get away from everything, but it’s also important to get back again; you need to learn how to navigate. Too many people simply rely on electronic devices for navigation. They are nice, and give us tons of useful tools when they work. When they don’t, you can get in a lot of trouble. It’s so easy to throw a map in your truck of the places you’re going to visit. That way if your electronic device fails for any reason, you will be able to figure out where to go. One of the handiest maps to bring is a topographic, or topo map as many call it. The topo map shows the contour of the terrain. It has lines that are based on elevation. Lines close together mean the terrain is steep. Open areas with few lines are mostly flat. The topo map is also great for locating landmarks. If you see a high elevation, or big depression, you will be able to verify your position according to what you see. It’s also good to know what direction you are heading. This can be easy in wide open spaces by watching the sun. In dense forests or canyons it can be nearly impossible. Don’t trust the old saying that moss only gathers on north facing surfaces; nature is not absolute. Most people just use a compass. Get one, and learn how to use it. 

5. Recovery Gear

Certain things are a given when going off road; like getting stuck. You should always have a few items needed to get un-stuck. First is a shovel. I once slide into a snowbank and had to dig myself out with my license plate. Now I always have a shovel. You will also need a good tow strap, and strong recovery points on your vehicle. With today’s plastic clad vehicles, it can be a challenge to find someplace to attach a rope. Make sure you have something on the front, and rear. If you travel alone, you probably need a winch, and all the paraphernalia that goes along with one. The traction boards that are everywhere are also very handy for self-extraction. High lift jacks are very popular, but I wonder if they ever get used on some rigs because you need strong lifting points with plenty of clearance. If you don’t have beefy bumpers or sliders, they are almost useless. 

Certain things are a given when going off road; like getting stuck…

This list just covers the basics, and admittedly many may have different needs, and desires. The bottom line is to be able to get where you’re going, and back, while keeping everyone healthy, and happy along the way.   

The Differential Difference

Adding the Right Traction to Your 4WD Truck

Before we dive right into how to turn up your truck’s traction ability, let’s first ponder a question that should be answered honestly. How do you anticipate driving your truck? Will it spend most of its time on the road, and will the off-roading you do plan on doing be mostly on gravel or compacted dirt? Will you be doing any driving on icy, snowy or wet conditions on pretty advanced off-road terrain? Do you anticipate driving through trails where very uneven ground, rocks and other obstacles and holes will be present? Taking these questions into consideration will greatly impact your decision-making when looking to upgrade your truck’s differential system(s). 

If you answered ‘yes’ to the first question above—congratulations! If you plan on sticking to mostly streets and highways or surfaces that are hard but not technically paved stretches of land, you really don’t have to worry about messing with your truck’s factory-equipped open differential, which is great. We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is. 

We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is…

For those who answered ‘yes’ to the second and/or third questions with the anticipation of driving through surfaces impacted by inclement weather that also feature more severe terrain, then you might want to consider shopping around for limited-slip or locking differentials. There are plenty out there to choose from, and it is best to still keep your personal driving scenario in mind when wading through these waters. 

Now, also keep in mind that whichever type of traction-adding components you choose will have a direct effect on different types of driving, wherein lies the importance of staying true to what you will actually be using your truck for. Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely. 

Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely…

Most light off-road duty adventures will be greatly improved with a rear limited slip differential, or better yet both a rear and front limited slip. These are the most widely used and common types of diffs since they cover such a wide application spectrum. What the limited slip does is shift a percentage of the torque to the wheel that has the most traction while limiting the slip on the wheel experiencing the least amount of traction (the one that is stuck in the air or free spinning on a patch of black ice). Torque is not always balanced between the wheels here, which will allow your truck to power through less than ideal surface situations with less of a chance of getting stuck. Icy, wet or uneven ground will pose less of a threat with the limited slip differential, so if you plan on encountering any of these foes on a regular basis, this traction-adding upgrade will definitely be money well spent. 

A locking differential will take your rig further than any limited slip setup can—no question. Now, do you absolutely, positively need to install a locker? Well, that all depends on if you want the power of a true 4×4, which means that all four wheels are getting power to the ground. Anything less than that might very well leave you stranded when attempting to take on some serious mud pits or extremely rough country. If you still plan on driving your truck on regular surface streets when you’re done on the trail, you’ll want to look into selectable lockers specifically. This will allow your truck to fire on all 4 wheels while off-roading, while still having the ability to flip back to an open or standard (stock) diff configuration with the flip of a switch. You’ll be able to beat the piss out of it off road, and still actually be able to drive it comfortably on surface streets just like normal. 

Within the realms of limited slip and locking differentials are other options to consider, naturally. There isn’t one system out there that can meet the demand of every driver of every truck for all conditions, so don’t get your hopes up. If you know and understand exactly what you’re asking of your truck, however, then you should already have a better idea of what side of the traction fence you’ll need to invest time and money into. The rest is merely addressing the details of personal preferences in order to fine-tune your driving experience. 

Top 10 Tools Every Off-Roader Should Carry

Tools are something that make everyday life possible. They come in a full range from “must haves” to “would be nice.” Some people would argue that all you need is a credit card, and a satellite phone. Most of us would rather help ourselves than call for help. The better your tools, the easier difficult tasks can become; especially when working on vehicles. Even simple tasks can become impossible if you don’t have the right tools. So what do you need as an off-roader? Let’s take a look at the basics. 

Most of us would rather help ourselves than call for help…

1. Socket Wrench

Flat tires happen. One of the most often required, and useful tools you can carry is a wrench that can remove or replace lug nuts. There are many options available from a straight breaker bar, to the latest battery powered impact guns that are on the market. If you can’t remove a wheel, a simple predicament can leave you stranded. It’s also wise to carry several different sizes of sockets so you can have what you need when the time comes.

2. A Jack

This one goes with the lug wrench; a good jack. There are countless uses for a lifting device when you go in the dirt. They are needed to change flat tires, get unstuck, or fixing bent tie rods or suspension links. High-lift jacks are popular because they can do several tasks. Just make sure you know how to use it, and have good jacking points on your vehicle. If you don’t have solid jacking points that mounts to the frame, and also allow clearance around the body panels, you won’t even be able to use one. Good jacking points are heavy duty bumpers, sliders, and the wheel lifting straps available. Other options are manual scissor jacks, and hydraulic floor jacks. If you use a hydraulic floor jack, you will need something to place it on so it doesn’t sink into the dirt. A piece of plywood works, or you can get bolt on bases for this, or even specially made jacks.

3. Shovel

When you go off-road, you will get stuck; it’s inevitable. When you are stuck, it’s because you are impeded by something. That something is either dirt, mud, sand, rocks or snow. You don’t want to be removing any of that by hand. I learned my lesson when I went for a quick little drive in my CJ-7, and slid into a snow bank. I had to remove my license plate to use as a shovel. With a real shovel, I would have been done in 20 minutes. Instead it took hours. A shovel can be used for many other things as well; putting out camp fires, trail repairs, burying a tire for an anchor point, etc. 

4. Jumper Cables

Like flat tires, dead batteries happen a lot. A jump start from or to another vehicle only takes a second if you have cables. If you don’t have them, your options are never good. You should not scrimp when it comes to your jumper cables. There are plenty of cheap cables out there that are not up to the task. Get some good heavy duty cables with copper wire, not aluminum. A good set will last you for years, and be reliable when you need them. Just don’t loan the out. 

5. Bailing Wire and/or Zip Ties

We are hard on our vehicles when we go off road. Things break, they come loose, and they get damaged. You need something that will hold things together until you can make permanent repairs. Zip ties are great, but they fall short when you need to hold up anything that gets hot like exhaust or brakes. Bailing wire is pliable enough to wrap around things, and it fits through bolt holes easily. When you double it up, it’s very strong. 

6. Vise Grips

Vise grips are a valuable tool because they perform many tasks. If you have a damaged bolt or are missing the correct size wrench or socket, vise grips will work. They clamp tight enough to hold things together securely. They can also be used for crimping electrical connectors, or capping brake lines. You can even get special vise grips with smooth jaws for crimping off fuel or brake lines without damaging them.

7. Tow Ropes and Ratchet Straps

Many of us carry a box filled with different tow ropes, and ratchet straps. Tow ropes are for pulling another vehicle. Ratchet straps are for securing things. Chains should be avoided. Chains are heavy for one thing, and they don’t give. Tow ropes are designed to stretch, and don’t release as much energy when they break so they are much safer. Don’t forget to also throw a tree saver strap in your box. Ratchet straps are useful for securing every type of loads. They can be used to hold down a spare tire, or secure a camper in the bed of your truck in an emergency. They are a very useful tool.

8. Fire Extinguisher

I have personally never needed a fire extinguisher, but have saved many people who did. This is one tool that you hope you will never need, but is a must have to carry. You also need to know how to care for your extinguisher. The types that have dry powder in them can settle over time. When you need them, the powder can be clumped in the bottom, and not discharge properly. Make it a habit to inspect your extinguisher before you go out to make sure it’s still charged, and give it a little shake to keep the contents dispersed.

9. A Tarp

A tarp is another item that is handy to have because it has multiple uses. We can’t always control where our vehicle breaks down, or where we will be working on it. Part of being safe in the outdoors is keeping your body free from injury. You only need to experience laying in cholla cactus spikes, sharp rocks, or hot pavement once to realize the necessity of having a good tarp to lie on. It can also be used to keep you dry in the rain, or cool in the sun. You can drape it over your winch line to absorb the energy if it breaks. You can carry water with it. You can use it to wrap up dirty items that have to go inside your vehicle. How many of you have slept inside your truck bed with a shredded tire next to you? A tarp is handy for many things.

10. A Buddy

Two minds are better than one, but so are two trucks, two sets of tools, two jacks, you name it. Traveling alone is something we all do out of necessity, but when it comes to being prepared off-road, you can’t beat having someone else along. When something breaks down, or you experience some other setback, it’s always good to have someone else to throw ideas around, help out with repairs, or just give you a sense of calm that everything will work out. They are also great for re-telling the stories of your great trail fixes and ingenuity used to get back home.   

Build an Off–Road Truck With a $10K Budget

Get the Parts You Want and Need

$10,000 is just the right sum of money that can be stretched a very long way when spent correctly. Think about it—if you’re in the market for a new truck, that $10k can quickly evaporate on dealer upgrade packages that aren’t really worth that much money when it comes down to it. It may buy a good amount of factory ‘premium’ add-ons and accessories, but they might not even be the key items you’d need to work towards building the legit off-road truck you want. Instead, you can take that cash and strategically spend it on quality goods from reputable aftermarket manufacturers who specialize in products that you actually want and need. 

Even if you’re looking to outfit an older truck that you may have had around for a while or have finished making payments on, that same $10,000 will come in clutch with turning things around for the better. It’s cheaper than going out and buying another brand new truck, that’s for sure. So why not invest some money into an older pickup and starting having some off-road fun with it? 

…$10k can quickly evaporate on dealer upgrade packages that aren’t really worth that much money when it comes down to it…

Rolling Attire

Tires

There are a few key categories of parts you’re going to have to start shopping around in if you plan to make a go of transforming your truck into an off-road worthy rig. Right out the gate, you’ll want to address your truck’s tire situation. You’ll want to still steer clear of dealer-upgraded rubber here, as whatever tire they’ll try to sell you will still be geared toward on-road above off-road performance every time. Instead, take a look at tires that are designed to take on dirt, mud, sand, and rocks—all the types of terrain that you’ll be looking to combat while out in the great wide open. Specially designed tread patterns and beefier sidewalls will most definitely be your friends here, and will totally be worth the money you’ll invest in them. 

Wheels

While you can put bigger, better tires on just about any wheel, it’s probably wise to spend some money on a set that is designed to better handle off-road situations. Bead lock equipped wheels will prove to be invaluable when you’re out on the trail as they provide clamping power to maintain the tire seal instead of relying on inflation pressure alone to keep them held onto regular wheels. This is quite an advantage since lower tire pressure is often used to improve traction on rough terrain. Plan on spending a few thousand of your budget on new wheels and tires. Of course, you could spend a lot more on them but that’s all based on your own personal preference and taste. 

Ride Height

Suspension

You can get away with spending minimal money on an entry-level leveling kit here and still be able to fit larger wheels and tires all around, and get the look of an off-road truck. While that may make your rig look the part (kind of), you could (and should) go a step further and look into more complete lift kits that will get both ends of the truck up a few inches higher, thus giving your truck the added ground clearance that is imperative in true off-road situations. While you don’t have to get your truck crazy jacked in the sky or anything, even a 4-inch lift will do. 

Shocks

Whichever way you end up lifting your truck, don’t forget to upgrade the factory shocks with a set designed to take on and handle increased dampening abilities. Even if you think you might need remote-reservoir shocks, invest in them. They can take much more abuse, and a lot of them can be manually adjusted to better fit the specifics of your particular truck. Of course, they cost more than simple upgraded OEM replacements, but are well worth the money. 

Underbody/Rocker Protection

With a truck sitting at a higher than stock altitude, its underbelly becomes more susceptible to damage from debris and other obstacles while bombing the trails. To keep vital parts and systems protected from an unforeseen accident, there are plenty of panels and skid plates available that bolt on and offer peace of mind while you’re out having fun. These aren’t a requirement, however, but a strong recommendation when it comes to defending your rig against the elements. 

Accessories Make the Truck

Lighting

Even if you don’t plan on being out in the middle of nowhere past sundown, upgrading your truck’s headlights to brighter HID/LED output wouldn’t be a bad idea. Heck, while you’re at it, it couldn’t hurt to wire up some bright auxiliary lighting sources as well. LED light bars, spotlights, or any other type of bolt-on light housing will end up getting a lot of use even if you don’t intend to use them often. You’d be surprised at just what kind of pitfall you could avoid with sufficient nighttime illumination in pitch-black visibility.  

Winch

You really don’t ever need a winch until you absolutely need one. Whether it’s your truck that gets stuck, or a buddy’s rig that needs to be pulled out of a sticky situation, you’ll be glad to have a dependable get-out-of-jail pass at your disposal.

Brakes

A proper off-road truck definitely deserves an upgrade or two in the braking category. Larger, heavier wheels and tires can rob your truck’s factory braking system of precious stopping power. Aftermarket rotors and calipers are an easy solution, and if your truck is still equipped with rear drum brakes, converting them to discs will dramatically improve braking abilities.

Performance

HP & Torque

There are a lot of combinations to choose from in this department ranging from simple air intake systems, custom exhaust, digital programmers, and a ton of other products designed to make more power. Pricing and level of skill required for at-home installation vary, so choose wisely and know when it’s best to fork over the extra cash for a pro to handle the install. 

Locking/Limited Slip Differential

You may not think this upgrade is necessary until you experience the struggle to make enough traction firsthand. Installing a locking or limited slip diff will allow for your truck to spin both wheels on an axle, which really comes in handy while keeping or regaining precious momentum on tricky types of terrain. The boost in confidence of where your truck can go after installation will astonish you. 

Mid Travel vs. Long Travel Off-Road Suspension

Which Is Right For You?

Every truck and its owner are different. While that may sound like stating the obvious, it is very much true, and determines the relationship of how someone drives their pickup. Most folks are more than fine with leaving their truck bone stock, and hardly ever venture far from paved roads. Modern trucks are easy to drive, and are often treated as a regular car—with a handy bed that comes in clutch during those sporadic trips to Home Depot. While this picture comes off as being dramatically domesticated, it’s really not that far off from how it really is, except for the truck owners that have a sharp taste for far more action and adventure. 

Now, the type of action we have in mind here is off-road adventure, and what exactly that means to each individual truck owner. While a good percentage of them tend to lean toward the mild side of things (which isn’t a bad thing at all) there are a slimmer number of truck fiends that crave the most capable, unstoppable setup imaginable. Of course, we’re talking about the timeless debate between mid- and long travel truck suspension systems, and what it really means to build and drive them. 

The Deciding Factor(s)

Which is the right one for you? Well, only you can really answer that question. There’s a lot to take into consideration—some are the obvious cost and labor issues, and others may be less glaring and require careful attention. You’ll have to seriously address the pros and cons of how mid- and long travel suspension systems stand to benefit your particular situation and how they could possibly negatively affect you world as well. 

Materials

While there is no real “negative” surrounding either of these suspension upgrades as they are both far superior than factory specs if you plan on doing any type of off-roading—even in the slightest. Mid-travel setups are far more accessible than their long-travel counterparts, as most basic front kits consist of at least an aftermarket uni-ball upper control arm, a quality coilover with reservoir, an upgraded leaf spring pack, axle flip kit, and a reservoir-equipped shock. All are fairly straightforward to install, and all of these components bolt right into place. 

Mid-travel setups are far more accessible than their long-travel counterparts…

On the other end, long travel setups are far more involved as you’re looking at aftermarket upper AND lower uni-ball control arms, an extended axle shaft, tie rod extension, coilovers with reservoir, and strategic weld-in reinforcements in the way of braces/gussets for optimum strength. You’ll see a beefier leaf spring pack here at the rear, which will be placed underneath the axle. This means that bolting on shocks in their factory mounting points will not be possible. You’ll have to get creative here to make it work, whether that means relocating the mounts somewhere else of going right through the bed utilizing a bed cage. Don’t expect things to be as easy as with mid travel setups here, it’s far more work, but there is a larger payout here once the dust settles. 

Cost

Long travel suspensions cost much more to build, obviously, but in more ways than you might think. Aside from the suspension components themselves, you’ll also have to take factory fender panels out of the equation, and think about wider, fiberglass options instead since the width of the front suspension is extended and the rear travel is extended so much over stock. On the bright side, you’ll be able to run comfortably with 35” tires without having to endlessly cut and trim until there’s nothing left of those original fenders anyway. 

Type of Driving

Think of mid travel suspension good for casual trail cruising, some moderate rock climbing, and increased general access to rougher conditions that wouldn’t otherwise be comfortable in a stock truck. You’ll have a lot more options open to you as far as terrain you’ll be able to take on, but take those options and multiply them—that is the true capability of long travel. But is long travel feasible for daily driving duties? Sure, why not? It’s really a personal preference with the additional width up front and all, but it’s just like anything else, you’ll adapt. 

Bottom Line Pros and Cons

Let’s start with mid travel first. You’ll be able to install the suspension components comfortably at home without any specialty skills or tools. The parts involved are fewer and relatively inexpensive, and you’ll still be able to upgrade tire size—think 33s without having to cut/trim fender wells too extensively. While you’ll be able to comfortable drive your truck daily and still have more confidence off-road, you will still be limited to more extreme conditions that only a long travel will be able to handle.

Long travel suspension parts do add up fast and installation isn’t always for the everyday DIY builder at times. You’ll most likely have to do some welding, so if you don’t have this skillset under your belt, you may have to outsource or wrangle a buddy who can help out. Save part of your budget for replacement fender panels, and prepare to lose valuable bed space for that bed cage and probably a spot to throw your spare. Don’t let all those factors stop you from seeing the job through—once everything is done, the off-road landscape will be your oyster. 

…once everything is done, the off-road landscape will be your oyster…

In the end, you’ll have to make the decision of just which scenario is right for you. Are you down for the higher cost and more in-depth installation of the long travel? Is it really worth the extra money and extra headaches? Are you fine with still being able to having more paths opened to you while still being limited to only where long travel-equipped trucks can travel? Weight it all out, sleep on it, talk it over with your better half, and then start building the truck that is right for your own personal situation. 

Are 35 Inch Tires Right for Your Rig?

The number one question people ask about is what size tire will fit my vehicle. Nothing gives your off road vehicle a more aggressive look than larger tires, and custom wheels. Fortunately, larger tires will give you just as much of a performance gain as they do a visual enhancement. One of the most popular tire sizes is a 35 inch tall tire. Depending on your vehicle, 35 inch tires could be a simple bolt on process, or entail several modifications in order to make them fit. If you have an AWD, car based overlander, or small SUV, you might want to try something smaller. On the other hand, a full size truck can allow enough clearance to bolt on 35’s with no issues. 

Automotive designers tend to make the wheel openings tall, but narrow. It probably has to do with aerodynamics. The wind turbulence created by wheel openings affects the coefficient of drag considerably which also reduces fuel mileage. Despite their good intentions, the lack of clearance is a real issue. Modern trucks have plastic fender flares, and side body cladding that can also hamper your efforts to fit larger than standard tires. In the past you could simply get out a saw, and cut the sheet metal away. Most people with new vehicles frown upon this as it is irreversible. Many don’t want to cut into such a large investment; that’s why lift kits are used. Not only do lift kits give additional ground clearance, but they also provide more room for larger tires.  

So why go to all that trouble you may ask? The answer is because your tires are the only thing between you and the dirt. Would you rather hike a trail in a pair of ice skates, or hiking boots? Some of us wouldn’t want to be on ice with ice skates let alone on a trail, but that’s another topic. Once you have increased the width of your tires, the only other way to increase the size of the contact patch is with a larger diameter. The contact patch is the surface area of the tire that directly makes contact with the ground. As the tire gets wider, the contact patch increases in width. As the tire diameter increases, the contact patch also grows in length. Increasing the length of your contact patch can give you much more contact patch on the ground. The size of the contact patch is critical because it provides the grip needed to stop, go, and turn. Increasing the contact patch is the easiest way to get better control. 

So why stop at 35 inches, why not go even bigger? That’s a great question, and the reason is simple. Once your tires reach a certain size, they start to affect other parts of your vehicle. They will put a strain on driveline components, and your gear ratio might not be suitable to allow the engine to operate in the correct RPM range that it needs. The bigger tires may be too much for your steering components as the contact patch creates so much grip. You also need to consider your brakes. You can see that once you start making changes to your vehicle, it creates a huge snowball rolling downhill. You will end up spending thousands of dollars, and entirely re-engineering your vehicle. That’s why tires in the range of 32 to 35 inches are popular upgrades. They can be made to work without too much disturbance of your factory systems. Some people have trail only vehicles, but most of us also want to drive on the street, or commute to work.

A 35 inch tall tire is still a big tire. It will affect your final drive ratio, and your braking, but many people will gladly accept that for the increase in traction. There is a camp that typically drives in muddy conditions who like tall narrow tires. They contend that the skinny tire cuts through the mud, and gets down to firm earth where there is traction. This only works if there is a bottom to the mud. If the mud is deeper than the distance between the surface of the mud, and your truck’s frame or the body, then you are likely to get stuck. A wider tire will provide flotation. Instead of cutting into the mud, it will resist sinking in; allowing the vehicle to remain on top. As many people know, and all will find out, mud doesn’t care either way. You can get stuck using a skinny, or a wide tire. The skinny tire concept is somewhat specialized. It doesn’t work on wet roads, or sand. That’s why most people prefer a wider tire. 

Personally, I like the way my vehicles handle with a large, wide tire. It feels much more stable to me, and it helps to build confidence when in certain off camber, or loose conditions. A larger tire also comes in handy when you are traversing ruts. Most of the time, it’s much better to roll over the ruts, than to fall into them. If you are driving the same direction as the ruts, you may only have an inch of tire still riding on the top edge, and that’s all it takes to stay on top. The same goes for washouts, or obstacles. When you come up to an obstacle that needs to be scaled, a taller tire will roll over it much easier than a shorter tire. The shorter tire will need to climb up the obstacle while the taller tire will have more of a tendency to roll over it. 

So you see, there is a reason why 35 inch tall tires are so popular. For most vehicles, they give you as much performance as possible without negatively impacting your vehicle. Like all modifications, you need to weigh the positives with the negatives. Most people will agree after weighing the options that installing 35 inch tall tires on your rig will give it the performance you want in the dirt, and set you apart from all the stock trucks out there.            

A Definitive Guide To 37, 38, And 40 Inch Tires

The number one question from 4×4 owners is what size tire fits on my rig. Designers used to leave some room in the wheel wells of most trucks; if you have an older model you can probably go up in size with just a little sheet metal trimming. On a 1990’s Ford F series for instance, 37’s will fit with no trimming needed. On newer vehicles they closed things up in order to provide better aerodynamics (less turbulence), around the wheel wells. This limits how large a tire you can run without a lift, or sheet metal trimming, and cut-out fender flares. Since it now takes much more effort to run bigger tires, why do so many truck owners run them, and what’s the difference between 37’s, or 38’s, and even 40 inch tires? For many people, they say the bigger the better.

Looks aside, your tires are the only thing between you and the ground — if you’re doing it right.

Most of us who modify our vehicles are concerned with function, but we also care about aesthetics. You wouldn’t purchase an expensive truck if you didn’t care about how it looks. There are also many who fall into the category of “form follows function,” who don’t necessarily prefer shiny paint, and chrome. These people still want their truck to look like it performs. Nobody wants to drive a silly looking truck, or one that looks like a pile. I’m not talking about patina. It shows that the vehicle is weathered, and probably has a few stories to tell. Patina is cool, but rusted out garbage is not. Despite which camp you fall into, when you see big tires on a 4×4, it makes the truck look amazing, and capable at the same time. You picture it climbing over rocks, and ruts, or anything else for that matter. 

Looks aside, your tires are the only thing between you and the ground — if you’re doing it right. Your tires might provide the appearance you’re after, but they are also vitally important to how your vehicle performs. Traction gets you through all types of terrain; mud, sand, snow, etc., but it’s also very important for stopping and steering. I’m sure some have been in the situation where you are hard on the throttle with the wheels turned, but the truck just goes straight. This can be anything from an annoyance, to a life threatening occurrence. All of a sudden, stopping becomes the number one priority. The bottom line is that your tires are important, and there are several reasons why bigger tires are better. 

It doesn’t matter how high the body is if your differential cover is excavating a trench.

First let’s talk about minimum ground clearance. The word minimum is important here. You can jack your truck up with 12 inches of lift if you want. That will get the body and frame high enough off the ground to clear a lot of obstacles. The problem is that the minimum ground clearance is between the differentials, and the ground. It doesn’t matter how high the body is if your differential cover is excavating a trench.

Eventually you will get hung up on something or high centered on the diff. If you are running independent suspension with four wheel drive you may have more ground clearance at the pumpkin, but your a-arms, traction beams, or uprights are still going to be in harm’s way. There are only 2 solutions for increasing the minimum ground clearance on your vehicle; running exotic planetary, or portal gears on each wheel, or taller tires.

Taller tires are the easier solution. Planetary gears attach to the housing ends on a straight axle, or are built into the suspension upright or spindle on an a-arm type suspension. You can gain several inches of minimum ground clearance this way but it causes other problems like a redesign of your steering linkage. They can also cause severe axle wrap on leaf spring suspensions. I’m not trying to dissuade you from going this route because portals are very cool, and functional, but you better have deep pockets, or your own machine shop and cad design program in order for it to be feasible. Just buy the taller tires.

There is also one other benefit of larger diameter tires, and that’s contact patch. The contact patch is the amount of tire rubber making contact with the ground. As the tire gets bigger in diameter, the contact patch grows. This has nothing to do with tire width; it’s more a product of circumference. The wider the tire, the greater the contact patch is in a let’s say east, west direction. The bigger diameter tire you have, the bigger the contact patch is in a north, south direction; or front to back if you’re looking at your rig. If your truck came with 31 inch tires from the factory, and you made the necessary changes to run 37’s, your contact patch would grow proportionately. Even more with a 40 inch tire. When you also increase the width, your performance can increase substantially. That means steering, and braking are also enhanced. 

Now you might suspect that there is a down side to running bigger rubber, and you would be right. You only need to know Newton’s Third Law of Motion to figure out that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Pushing those bigger tires down the road will negatively affect your fuel mileage. It will also require more torque to turn them. This creates a chain reaction that may have you modifying your entire drive line.

Axles, CV joints, drive shafts, gear sets, even your automatic transmission or clutch, if you have a manual gearbox, might have to be upgraded. But wait, there’s more. Once the outside diameter of your tires has increased, your brakes might not be up to the task. The greater circumference has to be taken into account. All the gains in braking control from an increase in contact patch might be negated if your brakes can’t stop you. Last but not least, you turning radius will also increase. That gets you closer to the edge of the trail when you’re doing a 3 point turn with no brakes. 

Before you freak out and give up on running 37 or 40 inch tires, just know that there are solutions to all the down sides. Your axles may hold up fine to bigger rubber. You may be able to do a gear swap in your differentials to bring your final drive ratio back to what it was. Bigger brakes are almost always a great enhancement to any rig. The bottom line is that 37, 38, or 40 inch tires are worth an investment in your rig to run them. They will take you places that people with smaller tires may never get to. Your rig will be much more capable when the terrain gets challenging.

Old Meets New With the Land Rover Defender V8 Trophy

Feb. 15 – Heads up off-road adventurers, Land Rover Classic is building 25 re-engineered Defender Works V8 Trophy vehicles for an adventure of a lifetime. The brand will be continuing the formidable expedition legacy of the original Defender, creating this limited run of adventure-ready Defender Works V8 Trophy vehicles. The re-engineered masterpieces will then be used for an exclusive competition at Eastnor Castle in 2021.

These extremely capable off-road Land Rovers are based on the re-engineered 2012-2016 Defender Works V8 spec developed by Land Rover Classic, and will include a 400 horsepower 5.0-liter V8. Also included is an 8-speed ZF automatic transmission, an upgraded suspension, steering and braking packages, and a wide range of additional upgrades specifically tailored for off-road use. 

Dan Pink, Director of Land Rover Classic, states “The Land Rover Defender has always been more than just a vehicle, its engineering capability and suitability for overland expedition and all-terrain competition means it’s renowned with getting away from it all. The new Land Rover Trophy will bring this to life for a new generation of adventurers.” 

To begin, Land Rover has taken a mixture of 90 and 110 Station Wagon body designs, each being finished in an exclusive and unique Eastnor Yellow paint with matching 16-inch steel wheels. The Defender Works V8 Trophy will be built to handle the most demanding and rugged challenges. Land Rover will be adding an entire all-terrain kit, which includes a front winch, multi-point expedition cage, roof rack, underbody protection, a raised air-intake, LED spotlights and M/T tires. 

Inside the Defender Works V8 Trophy is a full black Windsor leather upholstery with Recaro seats and  a bespoke Land Rover Trophy clock face by Elliot Brown. 

The Land Rover Trophy Event will start with owners putting their names, along with their co-drivers, on the vehicle along with their country of origin. Owners will then set out on the adventure with guidance by an off-loading expert to give the customers a unique opportunity to develop extreme driving techniques and skills. A grand prize for the winner of the exclusive competition at Eastnor Castle will be announced later this year. Prices for the Land Rover Defender Works V8 Trophy start at $236,000. 

Toyota Land Cruiser: Born From War

The history of the American Jeep is well known. Used by soldiers in World War II, it earned a reputation for toughness that endures today. Many will be surprised to learn that the Toyota Land Cruiser has a similar pedigree. During the war, an American Bantam Mk II was captured in the Philippines, and sent to Japan. The military ordered Toyota to reverse engineer it and they came up with the AK model. It was purposely designed to look differently than the Bantam. The Japanese Imperial Army named it the Yon-Shiki Kogata Kamotsu-Sha (type 4 compact cargo-truck). The AK was made in few numbers, and rare photos exist of them in action. In 1942, the AK10 came along. It also used reverse engineering from the Bantam and this time was much closer in looks to the Bantam.

In 1950, Japan was still occupied by US forces after it surrendered in 1945; ending World War II. The goal of US occupation was to create political stability and spur economic growth. When a new conflict began on the Korean Peninsula, US forces looked for military vehicles that could be produced in Japan. The AK design was further refined into the model BJ. It was the BJ that later became the Land Cruiser. The BJ was called the Toyota Jeep. It looked similar to the Willys design with its vertical grille bars, flat fenders, and boxy shape. The Jeep name was a registered trademark of Willys-Overland, so Toyota apologized for the use, and dropped the name. It became simply the model BJ with many conjecturing that the J was for Jeep; although that has never been substantiated.

The Jeep name was a registered trademark of Willys-Overland, so Toyota apologized for the use, and dropped the name.

Toyota was building trucks long before World War II. They had parts and tooling available that could be adapted to the new military vehicle. The chassis of the BJ came from Toyota’s model SB one-ton truck. The same truck donated its rear axle to the BJ. The SB rear axle was modified as a steering axle, and adapted for use in the front. The model SB had only a 995cc (60.7 cubic inch) 4 cylinder engine which would not suffice, so they dropped in the type B 3389cc (206.8 cubic inch) six-cylinder engine that produced 85 horsepower and 156 lb-ft. of torque. The BJ was offered in five configurations; touring liaison, two pickup truck variations, a mobile communication truck, and outfitted for firefighting.   

The Toyota BJ was built and subjected to several tough trials that included climbing to the 6th station of Mount Fuji, a feat that had never been done before. Despite the impressive demonstrations, the initial design was rejected. The contract was awarded instead to a Mitsubishi-built Willys-Overland. Undaunted by the first rejection, Toyota went after utility companies, and other fleet operators. After continued development, the BJ was adopted by the Japanese National Police Agency in 1953.

In 1954, the name Land Cruiser was adopted. Then in November of 1955, Toyota created the Model BJ25. It was a complete redesign of the Model BJ Land Cruiser. They also introduced the FJ25 that used the F engine. The original BJ was intended to be a military vehicle. The new BJ, and FJ Land Cruisers were targeted towards the general public. Toyota shortened the wheelbase for better maneuverability. Also intended to be more user friendly, the truck’s transmissions were equipped with syncromesh. The interior dimensions were increased, and the suspension was revised to provide a smoother ride. Gone were the crude one-ton truck parts that were originally used on the BJ model.

The truck became a world-wide success. In 1955, Toyota was exporting to 14 countries. Of those exports, 98 were Land Cruisers. The following year those numbers expanded to 518 Land Cruisers sent to 35 countries, and in 1957 2,502 Land Cruisers were sent to 47 countries around the world. The list of countries included the United States. One single Land Cruiser was sold in the states in 1957, but the humble beginnings would later develop into a huge market. US sales in 1960 had grown to 162 trucks. By 1987 the US numbers were an impressive 8,858 units sold. Toyota production worldwide had reached over 1.1 million trucks.

Several styles of truck all shared the Land Cruiser name. Foremost was the FJ40 which was so good, it remained basically unchanged from 1960 to 1984. The long wheelbase FJ40 evolved into a new design; the FJ55. Built with typical Toyota quality, the FJ55 was a wagon, but still had a fully boxed frame, and excellent suspension for offroad use. It could comfortably cruise at 80 miles per hour on the highway. Over the years, the Land Cruiser wagon morphed into several models, but sadly FJ40 production ceased in 1984. It was replaced by the FJ70 that was never imported into the United States.

In 2003, a retro looking mid-sized SUV was unveiled by Toyota as a concept car at the North American International Auto Show. The FJ Cruiser took design ques from the FJ40, but departed heavily from the original design. Gone was the straight axle front end (and the unique feature of having both front, and rear pumpkins on the same side which allowed you to dodge rocks). The basic utilitarian vehicle had grown into a bloated monster that was difficult to see out of. It was popular with a new group of owners, but did not resound with the traditional FJ40 enthusiast. Original FJ40’s and their FJ55 cousins demand high prices on the used market. Several companies exist that restore originals, or will build a new one from scratch. Either option will cost you 6 figures.     

Safari 911: Are Porsche’s More Fun Off-Road?

When most people hear the word Porsche they usually think of the 911, even though the first cars were designated the 356. The 356 hit production in 1948, and ran until 1965. Interestingly, the 911 which would replace the 356 was launched 2 years earlier in 1963. Despite the difference in model designation, the outside envelope and drivetrain configuration of both cars were very close. The familiar shape and mechanical layout conceived by the car’s designer, Ferdinand “Ferry” Porsche are still in use today. The 2020 Porsche Taycan is an all-electric sports car that still resembles the familiar 911 shape. The 911 is an icon, and people don’t like anyone messing with an icon. The 911’s original air cooled engine design was so coveted by enthusiasts that there was much controversy when it was retired in 1998 to be replaced with more conventional water cooling. I wonder if the Taycan has the battery bank laid out in a “flat six” configuration.

Most people drive their Porsches on the street. Although the 911 was known for simplicity, and driving pleasure, they were still luxurious, and rather expensive. They were out of reach for many. That fact created envy, and also spawned the Porsche snob. It’s easy to be a snob when you are so successful. Racing on pavement, Porsche has earned an impressive 19 overall wins at Le Mans to go with over 50 class wins. They also have endurance wins including 18 at the 12 Hours of Sebring, and another 18 at the 24 hours of Daytona. They have won the FIA World Endurance Championship three times, and own 12 manufacturer, and team titles in the World Sportscar Championship.

While no Porsche snob in their right mind would get their prized 911 muddy, there were those who were quite successful competing in the dirt; including the factory. While some wanted luxury and status, the cars durability and performance made them perfect for rally, hill climb, and offroad competition. Off the pavement, Porsche has four Monte Carlo rally titles, and a couple of Dakar Rally wins. The exotic all-wheel drive Porsche 959 was originally developed to compete in Group B rally competition but was never realized due to the cars cost. The 959 did however take 1st, and 2nd place at the Paris-Dakar rally in 1986. Porsche already won the Paris-Dakar rally in 1984 with a 911 RS/SC 4×4. The win in 1986 was with the same driver, Rene Metge in one of the two 959 models entered.

If you wanted to run a rally today, you would probably contact the Tuthill Porsche team. They outfit Porsche 911’s for rally competition. In 2013, they built 17 vintage 911’s for the East African Safari Classic Rally in Mombasa. 15 of the 17 cars finished the grueling rally. A Safari 911 that you need to check out belongs to Kelly-Moss Road and Race Director of Operations, Andy Kilcoyne. His 911 is extensively modified for the dirt.

So are these 911 Safari builds just to thumb their noses towards Porsche purists, or are they legitimate offroad performers? Certainly Porsche’s own success in the dirt would demonstrate that the latter is the case. Surprisingly, one of the 911’s greatest weaknesses on pavement makes the car superlative in the dirt; Trailing Throttle Oversteer. Those three words strike fear into 99 percent of Porsche 911 owners. Because the engine is mounted in the rear, the back end of the car outweighs the front. The ratio for the 911 varies from 58 to 60 percent of weight on the rear wheels. The most extreme case was the 1979 930 turbo. It had 63.8 percent of the weight in the back end. When you cut the throttle sharply on a rear engine car, the heavy rear end can act like a pendulum. The back end will come around, and cause uncontrollable oversteer. Uncontrolled Trailing Throttle Oversteer on pavement is bad. Controlled Trailing Throttle Oversteer in the dirt with grippy offroad tires is a blast. Just let off the gas for a second, flick the steering wheel opposite to where you want to go, and then bury the throttle to drift through the corner. On the pavement the goal is to drive at the limits of your tires adhesion without going overboard. On the dirt, it’s much more fun to hang it out in the turns, but that’s not all.

It’s common knowledge that the Porsche has many similarities to the Volkswagen which was designed by Ferry Porsche’s Father, Dr Ferdinand Porsche. The rear engine configuration, light weight, independent rear suspension, and torsion bar springs are shared by both cars. Those attributes made them extremely capable offroad. Many offroad racers were VW based. VW’s were also used extensively during the fiberglass dune buggy craze during the 60’s. Unlike the Porsche, Volkswagens were inexpensive, and produced in massive numbers. By making a few simple changes, any 911 can become a solid offroad performer. Some Porsche bodied cars where raced offroad, but mainly in the highly modified unlimited classes. They were somewhat of a novelty, however the platform is well-proven. The latest unlimited, open wheeled race cars competing today are rear engine designs with an independent transaxle driving the rear wheels, just like the 911.

So what’s holding most people back from building such a fast, proven, and fun car for the dirt? It’s the cost. Anything with a Porsche badge on it has skyrocketed in value in recent years. While you might find a rough example that needs work for a reasonable price, most well-kept 911’s, no matter what the year can go for anywhere from 60 thousand to well over a hundred thousand dollars. A quick internet search for let’s say a 1976 Porsche Turbo Carrera came back with a lovely example for the bargain price of 229,900 dollars. To be fair, you can find 1974 to 1977 models for good prices, but the 2.7 liter engine had problems that can be costly to fix. As long as you are not concerned with originality, a 3.0 liter engine can be bolted right in. If you are going to tweak the suspension, and fit larger tires why not? The offroad 911 will grow in popularity, it’s just too fun to drive to ignore. Then there will be those who build one just to bother the Porsche snobs out there. Whatever your motivation, you will have a unique car that attracts attention, and is a blast to drive.

More on this Safari 911 build here.

Will the Jeep Always Be the Overlanding Champ?

When it comes to off-road capabilities, few vehicles are in the same league as the venerable Jeep. The Jeep was a pioneer in off-road travel, and has been at the forefront of 4 wheeling for decades. The Jeeps usefulness in most any off-road driving situation is unquestionable, but what about its strengths, and weaknesses when it comes to overlanding?      

Some will say overlanding is just a fancy word for camping, while others say it’s more complicated than that.

Overlanding has become extremely popular in the last several years. One reason why it has such a huge following is because it cannot really be defined. It covers such a wide spectrum of vehicles, and pursuits, it allows almost anyone traveling off-road to fit under the overlanding umbrella. You can overland in a million dollar, six wheel drive house on wheels, or an all-wheel drive car with good tires. All it takes are good tires, and some off-road driving skills.

Some will say overlanding is just a fancy word for camping, while others say it’s more complicated than that. For me, the definition of overlanding is being capable of off-road travel while being fully self-contained. You should be able to support all your needs for several days or weeks without the benefit of running water or power from the grid.

Overlanding should not be confused with Boondocking. Boondocking is also being self-contained, and miles from support, but typically when you are boondocking you are staying at a destination. Overlanding is more about traveling to and from destinations.

The emphasis is on the trip, not necessarily the destination. With that in mind, the perfect rig for overlanding lies somewhere in between the all-wheel drive car, and the huge motorhome that may have 4wd, and some off-road capabilities. The region where you are overlanding also places confines on the configuration of a suitable overlanding rig. A 30 foot long, 12 foot high, and 8 foot wide truck based rig is just fine in the wide open desert, but would be tortuous in tight, off-camber trails deep in the forest canopy. In comparison, the all-wheel drive car fits on even the most overgrown 2 tracks you will find in the East. It’s also right at home on the many dirt roads found in the southwestern United States. The problem with a small car-based vehicle is that you lack the rugged construction, power, and ground clearance of a truck. You also run out of space quickly.

It won’t take long to exceed both the space limitations, and the weight carrying capacity of your car-based overlander; even with your titanium spork, and carbon fiber lawn chair.

One of the harsh realities of overlanding is “where do I put all this stuff?” If you are going to be spending the week in the cool mountains you can probably get away with less water than you would in the desert. The National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine have determined that in a temperate climate a person should drink between 3 and 4 liters of water per day to stay hydrated. That’s a gallon or so a day per person, in mild temperatures, and without exertion. If you are participating in strenuous labor (like chopping firewood, shoveling dirt, or changing a flat tire), obviously your intake needs to increase as you sweat it out.

Just as notable, if you are in a hot desert, or humid forest, your needs will also be increased. Let’s say you are on the high end of the scale and need twice the recommended water just for hydration; we are not including washing, or cooking needs. For a 7 day trip that’s 14 gallons of water per person. With the weight of water being 8.34 lbs. per gallon, that’s 116 lbs. of water you need to carry per person. Then you need food, tools, gear, spare parts, sleeping accommodations, kitchen utensils, etc, etc. It won’t take long to exceed both the space limitations, and the weight carrying capacity of your car-based overlander; even with your titanium spork, and carbon fiber lawn chair.

On the other end of the spectrum is the huge truck based camper. You have the space, and the weight carrying capacity to haul all that water, but you also have to push the weight. On the big heavy trucks fuel becomes an issue. Gasoline is only 6.3 lbs. per gallon, but you’ll have to carry a lot to have any range. The big rigs are right at home in open spaces, but navigating narrow canyons, or tight trails can be extremely challenging when you’re 12 feet tall, 8 feet wide, and have the turning radius of an ocean liner.

Clearly the best rig for overlanding is something in the middle of these two extremes. You want it to be small enough to navigate tight trails, but with ample ground clearance, and strong suspension components. It needs to get good fuel mileage, and enough capacity for extended range. It has to have enough room for cargo, and still be comfortable for passengers. It needs the strength of a truck chassis to handle the weight, and not twist itself to the point of failure. It’s also beneficial to be able to tow a trailer, and to have secure frame attachment points for recovery. Finally, it has to have a big enough platform to either sleep inside, or mount a realistically sized rooftop tent.

When you add it all up, nothing really compares to the venerable Jeep. Now I have to admit, the earlier CJ’s, and their short wheelbase cousins are lagging when it comes to cargo space, and room for passengers, but the longer wheelbase Jeeps (Don’t forget the Scramblers), are perfect for overlanding. They have all the capabilities off-road to get you through any terrain, and all the aftermarket support to build whatever you desire. Jeeps Trail Rated® designation means that it’s able to perform in a variety of challenging off-road conditions. The criteria include five performance categories: traction, ground clearance, maneuverability, articulation and water fording. Straight off the dealer’s lot you can also have many options that you’ll need while overlanding like a 240-Amp Alternator, Class IV Receiver Hitch, and Heavy-Duty Engine Cooling.

With the launch of the new Gladiator, you can have the best of all worlds; comfortable space inside for people and supplies, and ample cargo capacity in the bed. When it comes to the best overlanding configuration, the versatility of the Jeep can’t be beat. Until something else comes along, it will continue to be the undisputed champ.

Thinking of Overlanding in Your Crossover? Read This First!

Overlanding isn’t anything new. Societies have been doing it for more years than the automobile has been around. Covered wagons explored and traversed across North America and many of those same paths turned into highways and some even became off-road trails we know and love to this day. All over the world, people have been loading up vehicles and camping out of them for exploration, adventure, and necessity.

To overland, it doesn’t really matter what kind of vehicle you are in. The most common are Jeeps and Toyotas, sure, but they don’t own it. Compact Utility Vehicles (CUVs), especially all-wheel drive models, are well adept at handling the same terrain in most cases. They wont be crawling over giant boulders but they will certainly handle a lot of dirt roads.

CUVs are also known as Crossover vehicles. They bridge the gap between a car/station wagon and a larger SUV. Subarus, small Jeeps, and small Toyotas are among just a few of the many on the market. Loads of auto manufacturers build them.

Is a CUV Good for Overlanding?

The point of overlanding is to get to remote areas off the beaten path and bring your stuff with you. The vehicle is meant to be self-supported and self-reliant. The requirements are extremely vague but at minimum, it needs to carry everything you need for your trip.

Just about any vehicle will do, though some are better suited than others. Cargo space with your gear, a place to sleep, and the ability to get where you’re going. Can your vehicle do that?

Overlanding Gear Checklist

• Vehicle equipped to handle terrain expected on adventure
• Water – Amount depends on length of trip and number of people in the vehicle
• Food – Also depends on trip length, number of people. Coolers and Stoves may be required
• Place to sleep – Can you lay down the seats and sleep in your vehicle? Or do you have a roof top tent?
• Clothing
• Tools for vehicle repairs
• Safety Equipment – This varies based on terrain, the vehicle and how long you will go but there are mainstays that you should always have such as (but not limited to) a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher, spare tire with tools to change one, and communications equipment.
• Spare Fuel

Traction

A CUV that has all-wheel drive can generally get you to the remote places you’ll want to go to. Some vehicles even have aftermarket support to boost ground clearance, lengthen wheel travel, and improve the ride along the way.

Many newer CUVs with 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive have improved traction control devices already built in and ready to go like the Jeep Compass with the Selec-Terrain Traction Management System. Through controls on the dash, the driver can select from auto, snow, sand, mud or rock mode to best suit the terrain.

Getting traction is easily one of the most important aspects to think of when setting up a vehicle for overlanding. The vehicle will be travelling lots of miles over varied terrain and needs to be able to handle it all. Many tire manufacturers have all terrain tire options in sizes suitable for CUVs. Some even offer more aggressive mud terrain tires in the same sizes.

Partial List of Suitable CUVs for Overlanding

Here is a short list of newer CUVs and Crossovers that can be good for Overlanding. There a far more vehicles available that could be used so if you don’t see your vehicle here, don’t fret.

• Ford Escape
• Honda Pilot
• Honda Element
• Hyundai Kona
• Hyundai Tucson
• Jeep Compass
• Jeep Cherokee
• Toyota RAV4
• Nissan Rogue
• Subaru Outback
• Subaru Forrester
• Subaru Crosstrek
• Toyota RAV4
• And so many more…

If you are in the market to get a CUV to use as an Overlanding rig, spend some time looking at the aftermarket products available for different models. What you find there combined with the type of off-road travelling you want or expect to do may help guide your decision. Looks for small suspension lifts, tow hooks, cargo racks, skid plates and other items you may usually only think of for Wranglers or Tacomas. It is a niche market but enthusiasts-turned-business owners target many small vehicles you may not expect.

For those that already have an all-wheel drive CUV, load up your gear and get out there! There is no need to have a massively built rig with huge tires to go have fun, enjoy the great outdoors and explore.

To see if you and your vehicle is ready for an adventure, plan one! Put together a plan with specifics including where you will go, the path to get there, the duration of the trip and the time of year you will go.

Go through the process and think along the way, can my CUV do that? Do I have enough space? Do I have the right gear? If not, you either need to modify your vehicle, or change your plan.

Get involved in online forums or local clubs to talk to others with your same vehicle or similar vehicles and find out what experiences they have had. Listen for things they wished they had known before their first adventure.

Then, all you need to do is get out there and enjoy!

Why Is Overlanding So Popular Now?

Overlanding is not new. Travelling cross country with a vehicle is as old as the wheel. When you look at the some of the first overlanders, they travelled in wagons, or rode horses. Nomadic tribes, sheep herders, and the pioneers of the old west all lived on the move, and had to carry their entire belongings wherever they went. That’s what overlanding means to many people; being able to go anywhere while being self-contained. When the automobile showed up in the 1900’s, overlanding followed. The country still had large swaths of open, undeveloped land with plenty to explore. People had leisure time, and transportation.

American’s fascination with offroad travel has never waned. The same can be said for exploring the wilderness. One reason why overlanding has become so popular is because it’s a diverse crowd. You can find people overlanding in everything from a million dollar, purposely built big rig to an all-wheel drive car with a roof top tent. Can you still overland in a car? Sure, but one prerequisite of overlanding in many people’s minds is the ability to go off road. Not just down a graded dirt road, but beyond man-made roadways and off onto challenging trails. Whether you can accomplish that in a car is up to you, but I’ve seen it done. In fact, it’s typical in Mexico to be miles outside of any town, or so you think, and see a local chug past in an old car with bald tires through the same silt bed that just trapped your fancy 4 wheel drive for the last hour with hardly a care. The fact is, most offroad race vehicles are 2 wheel drive. The venerable VW beetle is an example of a very basic, 2 wheel drive vehicle that is capable of going just about anywhere offroad. Don’t expect it to carry a bunch of gear though, but that leads us to the next topic; comfort.

Overlanding has many levels of comfort. It all depends on your budget, and how far off the beaten path you care to venture. Some of the most extreme overlanding vehicles have everything a typical home would contain; a kitchen, bath, bedroom, even laundry facilities or a garage. The finishes inside will reflect the cost of the build. When money is no object, you get marble backsplashes, microwave ovens, and big screen TV’s. The more luxuries you bring, the more payload your vehicle needs to carry. At some point, your offroad capabilities become compromised. That’s why many prefer to trade convenience, and comfort for capability. True overlanding in my opinion has to do with getting off the beaten path. With that said, the terrain you will be exploring also has a lot to do with the size rig you can use. In deserts, and dunes, the bigger rigs are fine. If you’re navigating through thick forests, or tight mountain trails, a smaller rig is the only way to get around. There is no single vehicle that will serve every purpose.

Overlanders for the most part fit into two categories; those who do it for recreation, and others who live full time on the road. Many people say that overlanding is just a fancy word for camping. That might be true, but those who live full time on the road will argue that it takes a lot of commitment to cut ties with a conventional existence. Their choice of vehicle, and what to outfit it with, will be different than that of someone who is just out for fun for a couple of days. You can rough it for a while car camping, but as soon as you are forced to take shelter for a couple days due to weather, the contrast between full time, and for fun becomes clear. There is no going home to get out of the elements when you live on the road. You can always pack up and leave, but your choices are more limited. Staying warm or cool, dry, and fed can be challenging at times.

…it’s typical in Mexico to be miles outside of any town, or so you think, and see a local chug past in an old car with bald tires through the same silt bed that just trapped your fancy 4 wheel drive for the last hour…

So what has created all the renewed interest in overlanding today? You’ll probably be surprised by the answer, but it happens to be technology. While that may seem like some type of an oxymoron, it’s actually the existence of current technology that makes getting away from it all easier than ever. The ability for primitive man to use fire was revolutionary to survival. Today, it’s the satellite, the cell phone, and solar panels. Current explorers may not even own a flannel shirt. They have technologically advanced clothing that keeps them warm, or wicks the sweat from their bodies to keep them cool. Satellites give you your current location, and detailed information about what lies on the other side of that ridge ahead of you. They also allow you to make phone calls from just about anywhere. Even without a satellite phone, cell phone communication continues to expand. Proposals have been put forth to go completely nationwide by using the commercial airplanes flying overhead as mobile hotspots. Being able to connect to the internet from almost anywhere has led to people working remotely, myself included. This frees them up to travel full time. Many full time travelers make their living by sharing videos of their adventures on the internet; technology at work again.

Watch Brad from Trail Recon catalog one of many overland adventures in his Jeep JK Wrangler:

The one thing that most of us just can’t live without is power to run our electronic devices. You can’t make videos, call anyone, or check on your current location without electricity. The accessibility of inexpensive, and reliable solar power has allowed people to roam freely, and to live off the grid. 12 volt appliances, low draw LED lighting, compact electronic devices, and the continuing advances in vehicle technology have made it possible for us to get out to remote locations while being safe and comfortable.

As more people head out to remote locations, they will no longer be remote. You can see this phenomena happening right now. As with any trend, I predict that some people will want to go against the crowd. We may see a return to actually roughing it outdoors. The purists will travel in a vintage truck with a tent, and wear flannel shirts around the camp fire again.

What Is Overlanding?

One of the fastest growing trends over the last several years has been the Overlanding craze. The off-road community has always been segregated by brand loyalty, and region. You have the Jeep crowd, who doesn’t hang out with the Toyota owners, who shake their heads at the full size truck owners, who think Jeeps are impractical and silly. In places like Florida, which are mostly flat, and covered by swamps, tall trucks are all the rage. On the tight, steep trails found in the mountainous areas of the country, every inch of lift comes with a penalty due to a higher center of gravity. The dune enthusiasts are another subset of off-road, as are the prerunners. Most prerunners are 2 wheel drive, so they have to keep moving fast or risk getting stuck. That’s ridiculous to the Jeep crowd who love to crawl along with their multiple transfer cases because one transfer case just isn’t slow enough.

They are all separate groups who exist in their own niche. Along comes overlanding which can include all those groups. Overlanding can be done in a camper shell, or a 300,000 dollar rolling condo with satellite, a garage, and a marble backsplash in the kitchen. Overlanding is not camping in campgrounds; it’s boondocking, but with the emphasis on traveling. The one thing that all overlanders share is the ability to travel off the beaten path while being self-sustained. The only difference is how comfortable you want to be. 

Choosing your Overlanding Vehicle 

Do you want creature comforts, or off-road ability? If you are overlanding in a region that has very primitive roads, a smaller vehicle makes a lot of sense. If you go this route, you will have to travel light. Lots of thought will go into the gear you choose to bring. Will you be able to resupply on the road? If you are planning a long trip with limited access to supplies, a larger vehicle makes more sense. Eventually though, you will have the same issue with storage space, and weight capacity, regardless of the vehicle you choose. The bigger you go, the more you have to think about mobility, and fuel mileage.

You have to consider the needs of the vehicle, as well as the inhabitants. You should have spare parts, tools, vital fluids, and the ability to perform repairs in primitive conditions. Spares are the bare minimum. Having the added insurance of compressed air, onboard welders, or a bicycle, moped or motorcycle as a backup is not uncommon. Some people would rather invest in a satellite phone than to carry spares, and learn how to fix things. Whichever plan you devise, being prepared will be the difference between a survival situation, and an inconvenience when you run into trouble.

Basic Needs

Venturing into the wilderness should not be taken lightly. Your first priority should be basic human needs. You need proper clothing, shelter, food, and water in order to survive. If you are traveling in an area that has abundant water, you can get away with carrying less onboard, as long as you have a way to purify it for drinking. There are many types of filters available that run the range from straws, all the way up to multi-stage reverse osmosis systems that can be incorporated into your rig. In drier conditions, you will have to bring your own. You will need water for your body, and for your vehicle. Water is the most important thing for survival. 

Can you afford to go without cooked food for a couple days if the weather turns awful?

Food will run the spectrum depending on your cooking equipment and whether you have refrigeration. You can survive on dry goods, but having great food to eat makes any excursion much more enjoyable. Unless you have tons of power available for an induction cooktop, most cooking will be done on a camp fire, or on some type of stove with an open flame. Another option is a solar oven. Solar ovens can be broken down for transport, and use the power of the sun to cook your food so no fuel is used. All you need is direct sunlight. 

There are many 12 volt compressor refrigerators on the market that use minimal power, and will keep perishable foods cold. They can be powered with a generator, or solar power which is very popular. Ice chests are ok for a couple days, but anyone will tell you, they are terrible to deal with in the long run. Soggy food from melting ice is unappetizing to say the least, and usually ends up in the trash. Many travelers have an outdoor kitchen. This is preferable to keep the mess, and smells out of your sleeping quarters, but only in perfect weather. Can you afford to go without cooked food for a couple days if the weather turns awful? Rain or snow can be mitigated by a canopy, but if you add wind to the mix, it might make cooking outside impossible. 

That brings us to the matter of clothing, and shelter. People die from exposure to the elements. You need to maintain your body’s temperature; too hot, too cold or being wet, can have dire results. Roof top tents are very popular because they collapse for travel, and get you up off the ground, but it’s still a tent. Pouring rain, or gale force winds get old really quick when you are sleeping in a tent. Having a dry, protected shelter in inclement weather is important. Having extra space to relax, change clothes, do some chores or get some work done is added luxury. 

A comfortable overlanding vehicle should provide all of these essentials. It should have off-road capabilities, ample storage, power, a kitchen, and a bathroom. It should be able to pack everything in, and get it back out again without drama. There is an ongoing debate whether overlanding is just glorified camping. It does share many similarities, but I think it differs once you build in the systems and components that are necessary for long term, unassisted travel. You can throw an ice chest into the bed of your truck, and spend a few nights in the wilderness, but if you are boondocking for 3 weeks in the desert, you need a little more. Once you have a dedicated, live aboard vehicle, you have gone beyond camping, and into the overlanding zone.