SBN All-Female Bronco Build Graces SEMA 2022

The Ladies at SBN Show off their Hard Work

The 2021 Wildtrak Bronco is beefed up with Ford’s Performance EcoBoost power pack performance calibration, TurboSmart Kompact EM Plumb Back Valve VR19, aFe Power Momentum GT Cold Air Intake with a Pro 5R Filter, and AWE Tuning 2.7L Cat Back Exhaust suite.

For the chassis, it’s fully equipped with ICON Vehicle Dynamic’s 3-4” Lift Stage 8 Billet suspension system, Bronco Duster stage 3 Billet Aluminum Housing and Bushing kit, and Steersmarts Yeti XM Bronco Rear Adjustable Track Bar.

It features a custom designed and installed wrap done by Terra Strada Design. Equipped with Advanced Fiberglass’ 2” flare, 1” rise fenders, quarters and ram air hood, Baja Forged’s full-size Crawler front and rear bumpers with full size skid plate, Warn VR EVO 10-S winch, Factor 55 Ultra hook and Cascadia 4×4 Hood Solar Panel, Air Compressor, TRED Pro Recovery Boards and Jack by ARB; 37” Spare tire mount, Ford Accessories LockNLoad roof rack, Yakima Skyline tent, Ford Research and Advanced Engineering Lit Bronco Grille, Oracle Lighting, Brackets & Switches, and MEK Magnetic products.

As for the interior, it is furnished with Katzkin Seat custom leather seat covers, Goose Gear rear seat delete and icebox module with storage drawer, Ford Performance 50 QT Classic Fridge by ARB, all-weather floor mats, Molly bags, and In Vehicle Console Vault by Ford Accessories.

It rolls on ICON Alloy’s 17″ Satin Black Thrust wheels wrapped in the all-new 37” Milestar Patagonia M/T-02 tires. Tying everything together are McGuard’s Black Lug Nuts with a custom engraved SBN logo.

Products and companies that supported the build include Ford Motor Company, PPG paint (Paint Supplies), Seymour Paint (Undercoating Products), Summit Racing (Miscellaneous Supplies), Adenna PPE Supplies, TRAC Tire assistant products, UTI Long Beach, CA (Paint Facilities), MRT Performance (Facilities, Fabrication & Paint Supplies), 5 0’ Clock Garage (Build Support & Miscellaneous Supplies), SEMA Garage (CA & MI Facilities), and Duralast Battery donated by AutoZone.

Milestar XPDN4 Cascadia: An Overland Trek Through Oregon’s Many Exciting Landscapes

Lifting Your Rig 101: What to Consider

When the manufacturer sets out to design and produce the latest model four-wheel drive (4wd) vehicle, they are required to balance many factors from vehicle weight to carbon footprint. These constraints force them to choose components that meet the desired platform goals but typically leave little room before modifications exceed the strength of the factory components. With an estimated +300 billion dollars being spent in the light truck and SUV aftermarket in 2022, its safe to say there are plenty customers looking to upgrade their 4wd vehicles and one of the first modifications most owners make to a 4wd after purchase is to add some type of suspension lift and larger tires.

For many, this is done merely for looks. For those who intend to use their newly purchased 4wd to take them on remote off-highway adventures or to tackle technical trails, a lift kit and larger tires is only the first step. What is soon discovered is that the additional tire size and weight create more stress on the suspension and drive axles. While most lift kit manufacturers take these additional factors into consideration during the development of the replacement suspension components, upgrading the drive axles for strength and performance is left up to the consumer to determine what and when.

For most the first step is to replace the factory ring and pinion (gear set) with one that provides a lower drive ratio. How low of a drive ratio you choose to install is determined by how you intend to use your 4wd. At minimum you want to install a gear set that lowers your gearing enough to match the final drive ratio your vehicle came equipped with from the factory. Matching the factory final drive ratio will return the performance lost by installing larger tires, yet in most cases it isn’t enough to noticeably improve the vehicles off-road capability. To do that we need to increase the torque being delivered to the tires as well as increase (lower) the vehicles crawl ratio. The simplest way to do that is to install an even lower ratio gear set. How low of a gear ratio you choose can often be limited to the type and model axles your vehicle is equipped with, but for most applications gears in the 4.56:1 or 4.88:1 (higher the number the lower the gear ratio) are the most common for vehicles with tires up to 37” diameter.

…additional tire size and weight create more stress on the suspension and drive axles...

Before you spend your money on replacing the axle gears, there is another upgrade to take into consideration that can be installed at the same time as your new axle gears. With few exceptions, the drive axles in your 4wd vehicle are equipped with an open differential. The differential is a component that consists of a carrier housing, that is driven by the ring gear, containing a set of gears known as spider gears which in turn drive the axle shafts. When traveling in a straight line the tires are turning at the same speed and equal power is transferred to both drive axles. However, when you turn, the outside tire has to travel a further distance than the inside. To accomplish this the spider gears inside the carrier, allow the outside tire to turn faster than the inside tire. While this design is great for most driving situations, it doesn’t lend itself to low traction situations because it allows the power to be transferred to the tire with the least amount of resistance. To increase a vehicle’s off-road prowess, replacing the factory differential with a mechanical traction control device, more commonly known as a locker can be extremely beneficial.

There are multiple options to choose from when it comes to lockers. The cheapest and most basic is the drop in or “lunch box” locker. The lunch box locker simply replaces the factory spider gears with specially machined interlocking components that engage (lock) when power is applied and disengage (unlock) when coasting. The design allows equal torque to be applied to the axles anytime the vehicle is under power. They are however only as strong as the factory cast iron carrier and are known to create erratic handling characteristics on pavement. Due to these characteristics, most people choose to only run them in the front axle which is typically disengaged when driving on the pavement. The next level up is the full case mechanical locker. More commonly referred to as the Detroit locker. These lockers replace the factory carrier and spider gears with a complete unit made from much stronger materials. The overall design functions similar to a lunch box locker and can lead to handling issues if used on the street. Most people choose to limit the installation of Detroit’s to vehicles that see very little road use. The most expensive option is the selectable locker. Available in electric, air, or cable actuation, selectable lockers give the owner the best of both on and off-road traction and handling. Similar to a Detroit, a selectable locker completely replaces the factory carrier. Once installed, they operate very similar to a factory open differential until the owner “engages” the locker. Once engaged, a geared collar slides into place and locks the differential creating equal traction to both wheels. Once the added traction is no longer needed, the driver can simply turn off or disengage the locker. Selectable lockers are most often installed in the rear, and are actually becoming more and more common as factory installed options on many current 4wd vehicles, but they work equally as well in the front axle.

Suspension Tech: Shock Reservoirs and Bypass Valves

Performance hydraulic shocks are both simple, and complicated at the same time. Both their function, and the parts they use are relatively simple, but it’s how they are configured that makes such a huge difference. First let’s look at what shocks do. The weight of the vehicle is held up by some type of spring (air, leaf, coil, or torsion bar). The shocks control the motion of the suspension. They do this by friction which causes heat. In essence, they do the same thing that your brakes do, but differently.

Hydraulic shocks are filled with special fluid that comes in different viscosities. Viscosity is a technical term for how thick, or thin the fluid is. The shock has a body, a shaft, and a piston. The piston is mounted to the end of the shaft which slides inside the bore of the shock body. As the shock is extended or collapsed, the shock fluid inside the body of the shock is forced through openings (ports) in the piston. These openings are covered by flat springs or shims that flex to either open or close the ports. As the fluid flows through the ports, it creates friction, and therefore heat, so it dissipates energy. This is commonly referred to as damping. The heat is then transferred to the air outside the shock. Shocks use thermodynamics, and fluid dynamics to control the movements of your suspension. Like I said, they are both simple, and complicated at the same time. 

Most factory supplied shocks, and inexpensive aftermarket shocks, have no external features. The common name for these shocks are smooth bodies, and it’s one reason why they are inexpensive. They still work the same way as the expensive shocks do, by forcing fluid through the ports in the piston. As the shaft moves in and out of the shock body, the piston moves through the fluid, and the shaft displaces the fluid. There needs to be room in the shock body for that shock fluid to go. On some shocks, they just leave enough air space for the fluid to move. If you are in rough terrain, and the shaft is moving in, and out quickly, the air in the shock body can mix with the fluid reducing the viscosity; creating emulsification. This causes the shock to fade. It can no longer provide the same damping. Your shocks will not be as effective until they cool down, and the air and fluid separate again. To prevent this, some shocks have a floating piston that separates the fluid, and the air. This prevents the fluid from foaming, but it takes up room in the shock. If you are using the factory supplied shock mounting locations, this will limit the amount of travel available for the shock to cycle.       

Most factory supplied shocks, and inexpensive aftermarket shocks, have no external features…

Once you start moving up in price levels, you will see external features like remote reservoirs, and bypass tubes. Both of these features are used to allow additional flow of the fluid inside the shock. Remote reservoirs can be attached to the shock body, or be mounted remotely by using a hose between the shock body, and the reservoir. For added strength, shock manufacturers will increase the diameter of the shock shaft. This then displaces even more fluid. With a remote reservoir, you have the necessary space to allow the additional fluid to be displaced, and you can add additional features that are not typically found on smooth body shocks. Most remote reservoirs have a floating piston, and a valve that allows you to charge the reservoir with compressed nitrogen. Nitrogen is used because it is more stable than oxygen; it expands less when it gets hot. This nitrogen pressure forces the floating piston against the shock fluid so no air bubbles form in the shock fluid. Increasing the nitrogen pressure can also be used as a minute tuning adjustment, but that’s a whole other article. Since fluid is moving from the shock body to the reservoir, some shocks will have an adjuster that controls that flow of fluid. It is one more opportunity to create adjustment to the shock. It allows you to change the damping of the shock by simply turning a knob. You can stiffen them up to control sway on the street, and then back them off so your suspension will travel freely when in the dirt.

When it comes to the ultimate in adjustability, you now have the bypass shock. There are internal, and external bypass shocks. Fluid bypass works on both the compression stroke (the shaft pushing into the shock body) and the rebound cycle (the shaft pulling out). First we will talk about a single, external bypass tube used in compression, and what it does. The bypass tube will be welded to the outside of the shock body. It has an intake port that allows fluid in, and an adjustable, one way valve on the opposite end of the tube that regulates fluid flow back into the shock body. As the piston moves during compression, it pushes fluid into the bypass tube. Depending on the way the valve is adjusted, it could be a lot of fluid, or very little. The more fluid through, the softer it will be, and vice versa. 

Now we can discuss what it means to be position sensitive. Let’s say you have 3 bypass tubes that work during the compression cycle, and the shock is completely extended. As the piston moves into the shock body it is pushing fluid into all three bypass port openings. The openings are strategically placed on the shock so each opening creates a zone. As the piston moves past an opening, no more fluid is moving through that tube. Depending on where the ports are located in the stroke, you can adjust the fluid flow according to the position of the piston. That makes the bypass ports position sensitive. You can make the shock progressively stiffer as it compresses, or several other configurations according to bypass tube placement, and number. The same is possible for the rebound cycle. 

When it comes to the ultimate in adjustability, you now have the bypass shock…

When it comes to bypass shocks, there is also an internal bypass configuration that uses port openings that are not typically externally adjustable. The internal bypass design has a sleeve inside the body where the piston rides. The sleeve has ports in it to allow fluid to flow through to the space between the sleeve, and the larger diameter of the actual shock body. 

We have only covered the basics of bypass, and external reservoirs. There are many different variations and unique applications to these basic concepts. When it comes to shock design, the best and the brightest have been experimenting for over a century. When it comes time to upgrade your shocks, be sure to talk to the experts at the shock companies as technology, and designs continue to advance. Both Fox, and Bilstein are making electronically controlled shocks that are even more intricate, and capable of fine adjustments.     

Top 5 Overlanding Necessities

1. Water

Water is a no-brainer because you cannot live without it. It is the most basic necessity regardless of where you are. It is used for drinking, washing, cooling your engine, and preparing food. Early transportation routes were laid out according to where clean water could be found. They were routed from one watering hole to the next. Those who like to go overlanding where water is abundant still need a way to filter it before drinking. There are all types of filtering devices from hand held straws, to elaborate reverse osmosis, or ultraviolet light emitting systems that can be mounted to your vehicle. Boiling the water is also an option, but that requires time, and fuel. If you are harvesting water along the way, you will need containers to capture, and store it. You don’t want to put filtered water back into a container that had untreated water in it, so you need more than one.

Those who are in dry locations will have to haul their water in. Any long term trips off the grid will be limited by the amount of water you use, or don’t use. There are many tricks to conserving water. One is to scrub pots and pans with sand or dirt instead of water. Just be sure to get it all off before your next meal. A gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds. Gasoline only weighs 6.1 pounds per gallon. Think of how sturdy gas tanks are built. Your water tanks need to be just as robust, and be mounted low on the vehicle, like fuel tanks, in order to keep your vehicle stable. If you are going to be overlanding, you need a reliable system in place.  

2. Tires

You need good tires when you head off road. They are the only thing between you, and the ground. Not only do your tires need to provide traction for forward progress, but they also give you control when stopping, and steering. In many types of terrain, you won’t get 5 feet without off-road tires. Street tires will get packed with mud or just spin in the sand without getting traction. Tires also need to be durable enough to resist getting punctures, or having the tread sliced to bits on the rocks. No matter how good your tires are, eventually you may still get a flat so make sure you have a good spare, and repair tools for fixing punctures. Getting double flats is not uncommon as you can hit the same impediment with more than one tire. Having a single spare tire won’t always solve your problem. There is a good reason why off road tires are almost always the first modification done. Good tires will make a huge difference in your ability to have fun in the dirt. 

In  many types of terrain, you wont get 5 feet without off-road tires…

3. First Aid Kit

When you think of first aid, many think bandages, and tape, but you also need to consider your vehicle’s requirements. You should have spare parts on board to fix common issues that regularly arise. Typical parts to carry are belts, hoses, fluids, fuses, and the tools needed to make repairs. Do some research on your vehicle to find out what fails over time, and what the repair job requires. I had a custom suspension on my prerunner that took some special bolts. I put together my own kit that had a new replacement bolt for every one used on my suspension. Over time your kit will grow to include all types of spares as you learn from experience. 

Once your vehicle has everything it needs to stay healthy, you can focus on passengers. There is a big difference between a simple first aid kit, and one that is capable of handling severe trauma. If a medical emergency takes place, chances are everyone will be stressed. Having a serious medical kit will not only be a huge benefit in treating the patient, but it will also give you solutions that will keep everyone calm. Number one is having enough materials to stop bleeding as it is an immediate problem. You will also need pain medications like aspirin or ibuprofen. Some antihistamine is crucial for swelling or bug bites, and disinfectant or antibacterial ointment is always good to have. If you are on medication, make sure you have more than what you need for your trip in case you get delayed. A good thing to do is consult your doctor. They will know what types of medications, and implements are best to have on hand. 

4. Navigation

We all go overlanding in the first place to get away from everything, but it’s also important to get back again; you need to learn how to navigate. Too many people simply rely on electronic devices for navigation. They are nice, and give us tons of useful tools when they work. When they don’t, you can get in a lot of trouble. It’s so easy to throw a map in your truck of the places you’re going to visit. That way if your electronic device fails for any reason, you will be able to figure out where to go. One of the handiest maps to bring is a topographic, or topo map as many call it. The topo map shows the contour of the terrain. It has lines that are based on elevation. Lines close together mean the terrain is steep. Open areas with few lines are mostly flat. The topo map is also great for locating landmarks. If you see a high elevation, or big depression, you will be able to verify your position according to what you see. It’s also good to know what direction you are heading. This can be easy in wide open spaces by watching the sun. In dense forests or canyons it can be nearly impossible. Don’t trust the old saying that moss only gathers on north facing surfaces; nature is not absolute. Most people just use a compass. Get one, and learn how to use it. 

5. Recovery Gear

Certain things are a given when going off road; like getting stuck. You should always have a few items needed to get un-stuck. First is a shovel. I once slide into a snowbank and had to dig myself out with my license plate. Now I always have a shovel. You will also need a good tow strap, and strong recovery points on your vehicle. With today’s plastic clad vehicles, it can be a challenge to find someplace to attach a rope. Make sure you have something on the front, and rear. If you travel alone, you probably need a winch, and all the paraphernalia that goes along with one. The traction boards that are everywhere are also very handy for self-extraction. High lift jacks are very popular, but I wonder if they ever get used on some rigs because you need strong lifting points with plenty of clearance. If you don’t have beefy bumpers or sliders, they are almost useless. 

Certain things are a given when going off road; like getting stuck…

This list just covers the basics, and admittedly many may have different needs, and desires. The bottom line is to be able to get where you’re going, and back, while keeping everyone healthy, and happy along the way.   

The Differential Difference

Adding the Right Traction to Your 4WD Truck

Before we dive right into how to turn up your truck’s traction ability, let’s first ponder a question that should be answered honestly. How do you anticipate driving your truck? Will it spend most of its time on the road, and will the off-roading you do plan on doing be mostly on gravel or compacted dirt? Will you be doing any driving on icy, snowy or wet conditions on pretty advanced off-road terrain? Do you anticipate driving through trails where very uneven ground, rocks and other obstacles and holes will be present? Taking these questions into consideration will greatly impact your decision-making when looking to upgrade your truck’s differential system(s). 

If you answered ‘yes’ to the first question above—congratulations! If you plan on sticking to mostly streets and highways or surfaces that are hard but not technically paved stretches of land, you really don’t have to worry about messing with your truck’s factory-equipped open differential, which is great. We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is. 

We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is…

For those who answered ‘yes’ to the second and/or third questions with the anticipation of driving through surfaces impacted by inclement weather that also feature more severe terrain, then you might want to consider shopping around for limited-slip or locking differentials. There are plenty out there to choose from, and it is best to still keep your personal driving scenario in mind when wading through these waters. 

Now, also keep in mind that whichever type of traction-adding components you choose will have a direct effect on different types of driving, wherein lies the importance of staying true to what you will actually be using your truck for. Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely. 

Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely…

Most light off-road duty adventures will be greatly improved with a rear limited slip differential, or better yet both a rear and front limited slip. These are the most widely used and common types of diffs since they cover such a wide application spectrum. What the limited slip does is shift a percentage of the torque to the wheel that has the most traction while limiting the slip on the wheel experiencing the least amount of traction (the one that is stuck in the air or free spinning on a patch of black ice). Torque is not always balanced between the wheels here, which will allow your truck to power through less than ideal surface situations with less of a chance of getting stuck. Icy, wet or uneven ground will pose less of a threat with the limited slip differential, so if you plan on encountering any of these foes on a regular basis, this traction-adding upgrade will definitely be money well spent. 

A locking differential will take your rig further than any limited slip setup can—no question. Now, do you absolutely, positively need to install a locker? Well, that all depends on if you want the power of a true 4×4, which means that all four wheels are getting power to the ground. Anything less than that might very well leave you stranded when attempting to take on some serious mud pits or extremely rough country. If you still plan on driving your truck on regular surface streets when you’re done on the trail, you’ll want to look into selectable lockers specifically. This will allow your truck to fire on all 4 wheels while off-roading, while still having the ability to flip back to an open or standard (stock) diff configuration with the flip of a switch. You’ll be able to beat the piss out of it off road, and still actually be able to drive it comfortably on surface streets just like normal. 

Within the realms of limited slip and locking differentials are other options to consider, naturally. There isn’t one system out there that can meet the demand of every driver of every truck for all conditions, so don’t get your hopes up. If you know and understand exactly what you’re asking of your truck, however, then you should already have a better idea of what side of the traction fence you’ll need to invest time and money into. The rest is merely addressing the details of personal preferences in order to fine-tune your driving experience. 

Top 10 Tools Every Off-Roader Should Carry

Tools are something that make everyday life possible. They come in a full range from “must haves” to “would be nice.” Some people would argue that all you need is a credit card, and a satellite phone. Most of us would rather help ourselves than call for help. The better your tools, the easier difficult tasks can become; especially when working on vehicles. Even simple tasks can become impossible if you don’t have the right tools. So what do you need as an off-roader? Let’s take a look at the basics. 

Most of us would rather help ourselves than call for help…

1. Socket Wrench

Flat tires happen. One of the most often required, and useful tools you can carry is a wrench that can remove or replace lug nuts. There are many options available from a straight breaker bar, to the latest battery powered impact guns that are on the market. If you can’t remove a wheel, a simple predicament can leave you stranded. It’s also wise to carry several different sizes of sockets so you can have what you need when the time comes.

2. A Jack

This one goes with the lug wrench; a good jack. There are countless uses for a lifting device when you go in the dirt. They are needed to change flat tires, get unstuck, or fixing bent tie rods or suspension links. High-lift jacks are popular because they can do several tasks. Just make sure you know how to use it, and have good jacking points on your vehicle. If you don’t have solid jacking points that mounts to the frame, and also allow clearance around the body panels, you won’t even be able to use one. Good jacking points are heavy duty bumpers, sliders, and the wheel lifting straps available. Other options are manual scissor jacks, and hydraulic floor jacks. If you use a hydraulic floor jack, you will need something to place it on so it doesn’t sink into the dirt. A piece of plywood works, or you can get bolt on bases for this, or even specially made jacks.

3. Shovel

When you go off-road, you will get stuck; it’s inevitable. When you are stuck, it’s because you are impeded by something. That something is either dirt, mud, sand, rocks or snow. You don’t want to be removing any of that by hand. I learned my lesson when I went for a quick little drive in my CJ-7, and slid into a snow bank. I had to remove my license plate to use as a shovel. With a real shovel, I would have been done in 20 minutes. Instead it took hours. A shovel can be used for many other things as well; putting out camp fires, trail repairs, burying a tire for an anchor point, etc. 

4. Jumper Cables

Like flat tires, dead batteries happen a lot. A jump start from or to another vehicle only takes a second if you have cables. If you don’t have them, your options are never good. You should not scrimp when it comes to your jumper cables. There are plenty of cheap cables out there that are not up to the task. Get some good heavy duty cables with copper wire, not aluminum. A good set will last you for years, and be reliable when you need them. Just don’t loan the out. 

5. Bailing Wire and/or Zip Ties

We are hard on our vehicles when we go off road. Things break, they come loose, and they get damaged. You need something that will hold things together until you can make permanent repairs. Zip ties are great, but they fall short when you need to hold up anything that gets hot like exhaust or brakes. Bailing wire is pliable enough to wrap around things, and it fits through bolt holes easily. When you double it up, it’s very strong. 

6. Vise Grips

Vise grips are a valuable tool because they perform many tasks. If you have a damaged bolt or are missing the correct size wrench or socket, vise grips will work. They clamp tight enough to hold things together securely. They can also be used for crimping electrical connectors, or capping brake lines. You can even get special vise grips with smooth jaws for crimping off fuel or brake lines without damaging them.

7. Tow Ropes and Ratchet Straps

Many of us carry a box filled with different tow ropes, and ratchet straps. Tow ropes are for pulling another vehicle. Ratchet straps are for securing things. Chains should be avoided. Chains are heavy for one thing, and they don’t give. Tow ropes are designed to stretch, and don’t release as much energy when they break so they are much safer. Don’t forget to also throw a tree saver strap in your box. Ratchet straps are useful for securing every type of loads. They can be used to hold down a spare tire, or secure a camper in the bed of your truck in an emergency. They are a very useful tool.

8. Fire Extinguisher

I have personally never needed a fire extinguisher, but have saved many people who did. This is one tool that you hope you will never need, but is a must have to carry. You also need to know how to care for your extinguisher. The types that have dry powder in them can settle over time. When you need them, the powder can be clumped in the bottom, and not discharge properly. Make it a habit to inspect your extinguisher before you go out to make sure it’s still charged, and give it a little shake to keep the contents dispersed.

9. A Tarp

A tarp is another item that is handy to have because it has multiple uses. We can’t always control where our vehicle breaks down, or where we will be working on it. Part of being safe in the outdoors is keeping your body free from injury. You only need to experience laying in cholla cactus spikes, sharp rocks, or hot pavement once to realize the necessity of having a good tarp to lie on. It can also be used to keep you dry in the rain, or cool in the sun. You can drape it over your winch line to absorb the energy if it breaks. You can carry water with it. You can use it to wrap up dirty items that have to go inside your vehicle. How many of you have slept inside your truck bed with a shredded tire next to you? A tarp is handy for many things.

10. A Buddy

Two minds are better than one, but so are two trucks, two sets of tools, two jacks, you name it. Traveling alone is something we all do out of necessity, but when it comes to being prepared off-road, you can’t beat having someone else along. When something breaks down, or you experience some other setback, it’s always good to have someone else to throw ideas around, help out with repairs, or just give you a sense of calm that everything will work out. They are also great for re-telling the stories of your great trail fixes and ingenuity used to get back home.   

Best New Ford Bronco Performance Parts at the SEMA Show

Upgraded, Modified, and Off-Road Ready Broncos

After a couple decades, a few car chases and a whole lot of horsing around, the Ford Bronco is back for 2021! Well, it has been back for a minute now, but after a year we’re all trying to forget, we’ll call SEMA 2021 the official year of the new Bronco.

This year’s SEMA we get to really see what companies have come up with to further develop performance parts for the new Bronco Platform. Turning the Ford Bronco into a very capable machine is not a new concept, in fact it has been the name of the game since the Bronco first came out in 1965. Over the years we’ve seen time and time again that the Bronco is not just a practical suburban cruiser, with some upgrades the Bronco becomes an off-roading monster.

Here’s a sampling of some of our favorites at SEMA with some of the most insane versions coming from Ford themselves!

FIrst off is this Rhino Rack Bronco build by Doetsch Off-Road, fitted with all of the camping luxuries that you can think of! Upgraded Bumpers with LED lights, custom fenders from ADV Advanced Fiberglass Concepts to fit those Big tires on Fifteen52wheels, an extendable cover, and to Top it off, a Canoe!

We also spotted this Black Diamond Bronco from Havoc Off Road, upgraded with bead lock wheels, custom Winch Compatible front bumper, an orange skid plate, and some custom metal side steps to get you in this lifted Bronco.

Don’t like mountains? How about the Desert instead! Look at these race variants also from Ford. These have so many Custom parts that It would be easier just to list what isn’t changed.

Do you wan’t a tank but have a Family too? Well, Ford put some treads on this Bronco, so that you can simply avoid the lines at the Ski Lift.

Build an Off–Road Truck With a $10K Budget

Get the Parts You Want and Need

$10,000 is just the right sum of money that can be stretched a very long way when spent correctly. Think about it—if you’re in the market for a new truck, that $10k can quickly evaporate on dealer upgrade packages that aren’t really worth that much money when it comes down to it. It may buy a good amount of factory ‘premium’ add-ons and accessories, but they might not even be the key items you’d need to work towards building the legit off-road truck you want. Instead, you can take that cash and strategically spend it on quality goods from reputable aftermarket manufacturers who specialize in products that you actually want and need. 

Even if you’re looking to outfit an older truck that you may have had around for a while or have finished making payments on, that same $10,000 will come in clutch with turning things around for the better. It’s cheaper than going out and buying another brand new truck, that’s for sure. So why not invest some money into an older pickup and starting having some off-road fun with it? 

…$10k can quickly evaporate on dealer upgrade packages that aren’t really worth that much money when it comes down to it…

Rolling Attire

Tires

There are a few key categories of parts you’re going to have to start shopping around in if you plan to make a go of transforming your truck into an off-road worthy rig. Right out the gate, you’ll want to address your truck’s tire situation. You’ll want to still steer clear of dealer-upgraded rubber here, as whatever tire they’ll try to sell you will still be geared toward on-road above off-road performance every time. Instead, take a look at tires that are designed to take on dirt, mud, sand, and rocks—all the types of terrain that you’ll be looking to combat while out in the great wide open. Specially designed tread patterns and beefier sidewalls will most definitely be your friends here, and will totally be worth the money you’ll invest in them. 

Wheels

While you can put bigger, better tires on just about any wheel, it’s probably wise to spend some money on a set that is designed to better handle off-road situations. Bead lock equipped wheels will prove to be invaluable when you’re out on the trail as they provide clamping power to maintain the tire seal instead of relying on inflation pressure alone to keep them held onto regular wheels. This is quite an advantage since lower tire pressure is often used to improve traction on rough terrain. Plan on spending a few thousand of your budget on new wheels and tires. Of course, you could spend a lot more on them but that’s all based on your own personal preference and taste. 

Ride Height

Suspension

You can get away with spending minimal money on an entry-level leveling kit here and still be able to fit larger wheels and tires all around, and get the look of an off-road truck. While that may make your rig look the part (kind of), you could (and should) go a step further and look into more complete lift kits that will get both ends of the truck up a few inches higher, thus giving your truck the added ground clearance that is imperative in true off-road situations. While you don’t have to get your truck crazy jacked in the sky or anything, even a 4-inch lift will do. 

Shocks

Whichever way you end up lifting your truck, don’t forget to upgrade the factory shocks with a set designed to take on and handle increased dampening abilities. Even if you think you might need remote-reservoir shocks, invest in them. They can take much more abuse, and a lot of them can be manually adjusted to better fit the specifics of your particular truck. Of course, they cost more than simple upgraded OEM replacements, but are well worth the money. 

Underbody/Rocker Protection

With a truck sitting at a higher than stock altitude, its underbelly becomes more susceptible to damage from debris and other obstacles while bombing the trails. To keep vital parts and systems protected from an unforeseen accident, there are plenty of panels and skid plates available that bolt on and offer peace of mind while you’re out having fun. These aren’t a requirement, however, but a strong recommendation when it comes to defending your rig against the elements. 

Accessories Make the Truck

Lighting

Even if you don’t plan on being out in the middle of nowhere past sundown, upgrading your truck’s headlights to brighter HID/LED output wouldn’t be a bad idea. Heck, while you’re at it, it couldn’t hurt to wire up some bright auxiliary lighting sources as well. LED light bars, spotlights, or any other type of bolt-on light housing will end up getting a lot of use even if you don’t intend to use them often. You’d be surprised at just what kind of pitfall you could avoid with sufficient nighttime illumination in pitch-black visibility.  

Winch

You really don’t ever need a winch until you absolutely need one. Whether it’s your truck that gets stuck, or a buddy’s rig that needs to be pulled out of a sticky situation, you’ll be glad to have a dependable get-out-of-jail pass at your disposal.

Brakes

A proper off-road truck definitely deserves an upgrade or two in the braking category. Larger, heavier wheels and tires can rob your truck’s factory braking system of precious stopping power. Aftermarket rotors and calipers are an easy solution, and if your truck is still equipped with rear drum brakes, converting them to discs will dramatically improve braking abilities.

Performance

HP & Torque

There are a lot of combinations to choose from in this department ranging from simple air intake systems, custom exhaust, digital programmers, and a ton of other products designed to make more power. Pricing and level of skill required for at-home installation vary, so choose wisely and know when it’s best to fork over the extra cash for a pro to handle the install. 

Locking/Limited Slip Differential

You may not think this upgrade is necessary until you experience the struggle to make enough traction firsthand. Installing a locking or limited slip diff will allow for your truck to spin both wheels on an axle, which really comes in handy while keeping or regaining precious momentum on tricky types of terrain. The boost in confidence of where your truck can go after installation will astonish you. 

Mid Travel vs. Long Travel Off-Road Suspension

Which Is Right For You?

Every truck and its owner are different. While that may sound like stating the obvious, it is very much true, and determines the relationship of how someone drives their pickup. Most folks are more than fine with leaving their truck bone stock, and hardly ever venture far from paved roads. Modern trucks are easy to drive, and are often treated as a regular car—with a handy bed that comes in clutch during those sporadic trips to Home Depot. While this picture comes off as being dramatically domesticated, it’s really not that far off from how it really is, except for the truck owners that have a sharp taste for far more action and adventure. 

Now, the type of action we have in mind here is off-road adventure, and what exactly that means to each individual truck owner. While a good percentage of them tend to lean toward the mild side of things (which isn’t a bad thing at all) there are a slimmer number of truck fiends that crave the most capable, unstoppable setup imaginable. Of course, we’re talking about the timeless debate between mid- and long travel truck suspension systems, and what it really means to build and drive them. 

The Deciding Factor(s)

Which is the right one for you? Well, only you can really answer that question. There’s a lot to take into consideration—some are the obvious cost and labor issues, and others may be less glaring and require careful attention. You’ll have to seriously address the pros and cons of how mid- and long travel suspension systems stand to benefit your particular situation and how they could possibly negatively affect you world as well. 

Materials

While there is no real “negative” surrounding either of these suspension upgrades as they are both far superior than factory specs if you plan on doing any type of off-roading—even in the slightest. Mid-travel setups are far more accessible than their long-travel counterparts, as most basic front kits consist of at least an aftermarket uni-ball upper control arm, a quality coilover with reservoir, an upgraded leaf spring pack, axle flip kit, and a reservoir-equipped shock. All are fairly straightforward to install, and all of these components bolt right into place. 

Mid-travel setups are far more accessible than their long-travel counterparts…

On the other end, long travel setups are far more involved as you’re looking at aftermarket upper AND lower uni-ball control arms, an extended axle shaft, tie rod extension, coilovers with reservoir, and strategic weld-in reinforcements in the way of braces/gussets for optimum strength. You’ll see a beefier leaf spring pack here at the rear, which will be placed underneath the axle. This means that bolting on shocks in their factory mounting points will not be possible. You’ll have to get creative here to make it work, whether that means relocating the mounts somewhere else of going right through the bed utilizing a bed cage. Don’t expect things to be as easy as with mid travel setups here, it’s far more work, but there is a larger payout here once the dust settles. 

Cost

Long travel suspensions cost much more to build, obviously, but in more ways than you might think. Aside from the suspension components themselves, you’ll also have to take factory fender panels out of the equation, and think about wider, fiberglass options instead since the width of the front suspension is extended and the rear travel is extended so much over stock. On the bright side, you’ll be able to run comfortably with 35” tires without having to endlessly cut and trim until there’s nothing left of those original fenders anyway. 

Type of Driving

Think of mid travel suspension good for casual trail cruising, some moderate rock climbing, and increased general access to rougher conditions that wouldn’t otherwise be comfortable in a stock truck. You’ll have a lot more options open to you as far as terrain you’ll be able to take on, but take those options and multiply them—that is the true capability of long travel. But is long travel feasible for daily driving duties? Sure, why not? It’s really a personal preference with the additional width up front and all, but it’s just like anything else, you’ll adapt. 

Bottom Line Pros and Cons

Let’s start with mid travel first. You’ll be able to install the suspension components comfortably at home without any specialty skills or tools. The parts involved are fewer and relatively inexpensive, and you’ll still be able to upgrade tire size—think 33s without having to cut/trim fender wells too extensively. While you’ll be able to comfortable drive your truck daily and still have more confidence off-road, you will still be limited to more extreme conditions that only a long travel will be able to handle.

Long travel suspension parts do add up fast and installation isn’t always for the everyday DIY builder at times. You’ll most likely have to do some welding, so if you don’t have this skillset under your belt, you may have to outsource or wrangle a buddy who can help out. Save part of your budget for replacement fender panels, and prepare to lose valuable bed space for that bed cage and probably a spot to throw your spare. Don’t let all those factors stop you from seeing the job through—once everything is done, the off-road landscape will be your oyster. 

…once everything is done, the off-road landscape will be your oyster…

In the end, you’ll have to make the decision of just which scenario is right for you. Are you down for the higher cost and more in-depth installation of the long travel? Is it really worth the extra money and extra headaches? Are you fine with still being able to having more paths opened to you while still being limited to only where long travel-equipped trucks can travel? Weight it all out, sleep on it, talk it over with your better half, and then start building the truck that is right for your own personal situation. 

Are 35 Inch Tires Right for Your Rig?

The number one question people ask about is what size tire will fit my vehicle. Nothing gives your off road vehicle a more aggressive look than larger tires, and custom wheels. Fortunately, larger tires will give you just as much of a performance gain as they do a visual enhancement. One of the most popular tire sizes is a 35 inch tall tire. Depending on your vehicle, 35 inch tires could be a simple bolt on process, or entail several modifications in order to make them fit. If you have an AWD, car based overlander, or small SUV, you might want to try something smaller. On the other hand, a full size truck can allow enough clearance to bolt on 35’s with no issues. 

Automotive designers tend to make the wheel openings tall, but narrow. It probably has to do with aerodynamics. The wind turbulence created by wheel openings affects the coefficient of drag considerably which also reduces fuel mileage. Despite their good intentions, the lack of clearance is a real issue. Modern trucks have plastic fender flares, and side body cladding that can also hamper your efforts to fit larger than standard tires. In the past you could simply get out a saw, and cut the sheet metal away. Most people with new vehicles frown upon this as it is irreversible. Many don’t want to cut into such a large investment; that’s why lift kits are used. Not only do lift kits give additional ground clearance, but they also provide more room for larger tires.  

So why go to all that trouble you may ask? The answer is because your tires are the only thing between you and the dirt. Would you rather hike a trail in a pair of ice skates, or hiking boots? Some of us wouldn’t want to be on ice with ice skates let alone on a trail, but that’s another topic. Once you have increased the width of your tires, the only other way to increase the size of the contact patch is with a larger diameter. The contact patch is the surface area of the tire that directly makes contact with the ground. As the tire gets wider, the contact patch increases in width. As the tire diameter increases, the contact patch also grows in length. Increasing the length of your contact patch can give you much more contact patch on the ground. The size of the contact patch is critical because it provides the grip needed to stop, go, and turn. Increasing the contact patch is the easiest way to get better control. 

So why stop at 35 inches, why not go even bigger? That’s a great question, and the reason is simple. Once your tires reach a certain size, they start to affect other parts of your vehicle. They will put a strain on driveline components, and your gear ratio might not be suitable to allow the engine to operate in the correct RPM range that it needs. The bigger tires may be too much for your steering components as the contact patch creates so much grip. You also need to consider your brakes. You can see that once you start making changes to your vehicle, it creates a huge snowball rolling downhill. You will end up spending thousands of dollars, and entirely re-engineering your vehicle. That’s why tires in the range of 32 to 35 inches are popular upgrades. They can be made to work without too much disturbance of your factory systems. Some people have trail only vehicles, but most of us also want to drive on the street, or commute to work.

A 35 inch tall tire is still a big tire. It will affect your final drive ratio, and your braking, but many people will gladly accept that for the increase in traction. There is a camp that typically drives in muddy conditions who like tall narrow tires. They contend that the skinny tire cuts through the mud, and gets down to firm earth where there is traction. This only works if there is a bottom to the mud. If the mud is deeper than the distance between the surface of the mud, and your truck’s frame or the body, then you are likely to get stuck. A wider tire will provide flotation. Instead of cutting into the mud, it will resist sinking in; allowing the vehicle to remain on top. As many people know, and all will find out, mud doesn’t care either way. You can get stuck using a skinny, or a wide tire. The skinny tire concept is somewhat specialized. It doesn’t work on wet roads, or sand. That’s why most people prefer a wider tire. 

Personally, I like the way my vehicles handle with a large, wide tire. It feels much more stable to me, and it helps to build confidence when in certain off camber, or loose conditions. A larger tire also comes in handy when you are traversing ruts. Most of the time, it’s much better to roll over the ruts, than to fall into them. If you are driving the same direction as the ruts, you may only have an inch of tire still riding on the top edge, and that’s all it takes to stay on top. The same goes for washouts, or obstacles. When you come up to an obstacle that needs to be scaled, a taller tire will roll over it much easier than a shorter tire. The shorter tire will need to climb up the obstacle while the taller tire will have more of a tendency to roll over it. 

So you see, there is a reason why 35 inch tall tires are so popular. For most vehicles, they give you as much performance as possible without negatively impacting your vehicle. Like all modifications, you need to weigh the positives with the negatives. Most people will agree after weighing the options that installing 35 inch tall tires on your rig will give it the performance you want in the dirt, and set you apart from all the stock trucks out there.            

Relic Run 2021: Rally at the Reservoir

The Challenge

Every good trip starts out with a list. You know, that check list that you got all the camping gear, food, recovery gear and maybe even some spare parts to ward off the broken ones. (It’s common knowledge that if you bring spare parts you won’t need them, right?). How much you bring depends on where you are going and what you are driving. For this trip the list of things will be mostly comprised of vintage parts, vintage camping gear and even a couple of vintage guys who grew up before cell phones and GPS.

Where would one take all this vintage stuff? Relic Run 2021 hosted by Expedition Utah. Relic Run is a get together of vintage 4×4’s from all makes and models. The run itself is designed to celebrate the mechanized great outdoors. This means break out those gas Coleman lanterns, look up those camping recipes for the Dutch oven, and grab those aluminum lawn chairs from grandma’s attic.  The official outfit of Relic Run depends on the year of your vehicle. Cut off shorts, 70’s rock band t-shirts and Chuck Taylors fit in well in pretty much any decade. Each year the event switches from a base camping trip to a multi-day journey styled as a car camping Safari of yesteryear. 

People migrate from all over the US to take part in Relic Run, but not just anyone can attend. You need to qualify first. How do you qualify? You need a period correct 4×4 vehicle and matching camping gear that predates 1989. The Vehicles really are the stars of the show. The more period correct, the bigger the challenge. Anyone can get in a New Jeep JL and drive across country, but it takes skill and tenacity to get in a vintage 4×4 and experience the great outdoors the way your grand parents did. By reliving these adventures, we pay homage to a generation that was so tough, they just thought it was normal life.

Getting There

This year’s relic Run was hosted on the banks of Wyoming’s flaming gorge. This is where the true adventure begins. Our vintage 4×4 started life in 1972. The K5 Blazer was Chevrolets answer to the Ford Bronco. Based on the ½ ton chevy pickup, the K5 Blazer shared all the same running gear and cargo capacity as the same year Chevy truck. This made a great platform to haul camping gear, fishing gear, and even tow a trailer. Since this year was a base station Relic Run, we chose to Glamp in a 1975 trillium 4500. This trailer is built like a boat. The fiberglass outer shell and fiberglass interior is incredibly light and strong creating a great overlanding trailer before the term was ever coined.

Getting to the gorge in a 1972 K5 blazer towing a vintage fiberglass travel trailer nearly 1000 miles before the event even starts was the true challenge. With weeks of prep checked off the list, The K5 was finally ready for its first task. Pick up its co-driver “Red” Phil Griffis from San Diego airport. Red is no stranger to Relic Run and old cars. He helped acquire the K5 years ago and has ticked off many miles behind the wheel. No sooner than we loaded his gear Red was handed a paper map as relic navigation and we set off to follow the old routes the best we could towards Salt Lake City.

This would include Route 66 and passing though forgotten ghost towns the freeways bypassed long ago. The old routes cleverly avoid steep hills with names like Cajon pass and Baker grade saving wear and tear on a nearly 50yo rig. Normally we would drive at night to avoid the deserts blistering heat, but our confidence was high in our K5, so we passed through the high desert during the hottest time of the day. The AC was blowing cold, but the interior was still 90 degrees. Turns outs, that was pretty generous since the outside air temp was 110 degrees with 70% humidity.

Verne Simons & the CJ5

Still west of the Colorado river, we got a cryptic text at 11am saying (it’s ready). Our friend Verne Simons had decided to disassemble two CJ5s to create one really period correct original Jeep. He was able to tear the body off the frame and rewire the whole vehicle between 2 Saturdays.

Verne is not only our resident Jeep expert; he’s also been writing 4×4 content articles in multiple magazines for two decades. No sooner did Verne notify us the CJ5 was ready, he quickly loaded up his gear and headed out. Verne’s home base is near Phoenix. High noon in a Jeep CJ would be the ultimate test of determination, hydration, and salt retention as he set out to meet us along our journey.

As the sun started setting the heat remained constant. Cryptic communication continued as we figured our paths would collide on the back side of Vegas about 9pm. Driving the CJ-5 loaded with 10 days of camping and two dogs, he’d actually done it. From a literal pile of parts on the previous Saturday, Verne created a functioning vehicle and put 250 miles across the hottest desert for its first test. Verne arrived a bit dingy from the heat and worried about the additional 700 miles to go. As a team, Red, Verne and Myself went over the Jeep to make sure all systems were functioning correctly and reassured Verne the vehicles and crew were up to the challenge. Once the dogs were fed and watered, the vehicles got one last examination, and we were in search of tonight’s camp. Just north of Lake Mead we pulled off in some mud hills at about 11pm. It was still hot, and the humidity reminded us of Atlanta with not so much as a breeze. This made sleep in short supply. 

Breakdown Day

Some of us slept better than others, but it was time to get up, take some morning pictures, check over the vehicles again and hit the road. We still had 500 miles to go. It was hot and a true oasis sounded like a smart stop on our road day. It’s important to mention that we left days early to the event in anticipation of Murphy’s Law. “What can go wrong, Will go wrong” We live by a code, “you can’t be mad about the situation you put yourself in”. So, when things go wrong it’s just part of the adventure. We were in search of a place called Toquerville Falls. All navigation showed it as 3.5 miles off the highway. Turns out it was a decent 4×4 trail with steep grades, sharp ledges, and dusty desert roads. So, we dropped the trillium at the trailhead, aired down the Milestar Patagonia M/T’s and switched to low range. 

The k5 Trans was not liking the additional heat and stress of low range and without that high-speed air through the radiator, the engine was cooking under the hood. The Carb on the CJ5 was flooding over and wanted more speed also to keep from stalling out. We arrived at the falls greeted by other off-road enthusiasts smiling and splashing in the pools below. The falls were a welcome relief to the relentless heat. We visited the falls just long enough to get recharged. With soaking wet clothes, this made the trail ride to the blacktop palatable.

A quick stop to air up the tires started a chain of events you just couldn’t make up. While the K5 was running at a high idle to keep the ARB compressor putting out 6cfm, the alternator started to smell funny. Little did we know that the electronics in the K5 were about to get a shock to the system. Mind you no electronics like heat, the alternator poured smoke out from under the hood and the ignition cut out. We disabled the alternator and tried to move on, but the ignition started shooting ducks (backfiring and sputtering). Our next move was to install the spare ignition parts and move on. So, we changed out the cap, rotor, and ignition module. The K5 was running again.

On the freeway we went or so we thought as it started shooting ducks again. The next exit was coming up fast, so we pulled off and found a safe place to work. No sooner did we pull off, Verne called on the radio, (he’d picked up a drivetrain vibration). Verne crawled under his rig and we crawled back into the engine compartment for a second ignition module and a coil this time. Verne’s repair turned out to be simple. Remove the offending rear driveshaft and turn his Jeep CJ5 into a front wheel drive.

The CJ5’s rear drive shaft had a bad U joint. This was compounded by a marginal yoke and we suspected the rear shaft was too long. Back on the road again, the K5 was still running without an alternator and Verne needed U joints so our next stop was Napa auto parts. The Auto parts parking lot soon became a repair station as Vern built a driveshaft and the K5 got a new alternator. This was all par for the course. Smiling and joking about the repairs is all part of the adventure. Hungry and tired, we found some great food in cedar city and jumped on the highway again. One mile from our next exit the CJ5 started to sputter. The chatter on the radio diagnosed that we may have forgotten to get fuel.  Dodging through traffic cones Verne coasted right up besides the K5 and we dumped the K5’s spare fuel in the CJ5. The old 304 v8 fired right back up and we were running smoothly again. Camp was right around the corner in a high elevation forest, and this would be the best night’s sleep so far. 

Flaming Gorge

The next day both vehicles ran perfectly covering a mix of dirt and asphalt about 400 miles to arrive at the eastern shore of the flaming gorge reservoir. This would be the base station for Relic Run 2021. Our arrival timing was perfect as the sun set over the water.

We pulled into camp just as the last light slipped away so we could get our sleeping situations arranged. The 1973 CJ5 and the 1972 K5 made the 950-mile trek across deserts, up into forests, and ate up asphalt in true vintage style.  As the morning light brightened with daybreak, we realized how cool our Relic Run campsite really was.

Several miles of abandon shoreline connected to crystal clear water, we were finally able to scrub off the sweat and dust from our travels. The water was refreshing and reminded us of why we love adventures. 

Relic Run 2021

Thursday afternoon was the official start of relic run. Vintage 4×4’s from the tri state area started rolling in filled with vintage camping gear like gasoline stoves, flannel sleeping bags, canvas tents and cast-iron pans for making recipes long since forgotten. The first night was a meet and greet where everyone shared hors d’oeuvres. (Clever snacks your grandparents probably made for parties and mixers). Story swapping went on for hours until Mother Nature sent us all to bed with a stiff breeze and light rain. The next morning campers were up early chatting about tents that blew down or water on their vintage cot and cotton sleeping bags. 10am came around and it was time for a trail ride. 8 of the most eclectic vehicles showed up from a right-hand drive Toyota BJ71 to a Dodge power wagon.

These people loved all things 4WD, but that didn’t stop the brand loyalty rivalry. Toyotas outnumbered Jeeps making them feel superior, and Fords stayed at camp proving Chevrolet was the true workhorse that weekend. The destination of the trail ride was 3 corners monument. This is where Wyoming, Utah, and Colorado meet. A 60-mile round trip consisting of smooth graded dirt roads, broken asphalt, and forest 2 tire tracks didn’t disappoint as the scenery ever evolved. 

 Along the way we saw cattle, pronghorn, grouse and even a moose. Back to camp just in time for one last swim, The Relic Runners needed to get to work building vintage meals for the evening’s potluck dinner. Casseroles, meatballs, pasta salads, along with upside down cakes and baked goods left everyone full and satisfied. 

A Day Off

Saturday was a day with little to do but soak up water and sun. We fished the bay in our vintage boats as others sat in aluminum lawn chairs in the water. This was also a great day to look over the aging 4×4’s and do any last-minute maintenance for Sunday’s trip home. Verne added an additional power port to charge his phone, the CJ and the K5 both took a quart of oil and seemed to be on the same schedule of drinking habits. The highlight Saturday had to be the taco assembly line sponsored by Expedition Utah. Bob Dubois “The Mayor of Relic Run” had picked up 50 lbs. of marinated meat and we aligned camp stoves, BBQ’s and scottles to feed the entire group several times over. The food was excellent, but the company was even better.

It was fun to watch the Relic Runners get competitive as others steered clear of the classic Red Ryder (in fear of shooting their eye out we suppose).

It was time for the annual BB gun contest. Pop cans were hung in the trees with fishing line creating a ‘’tin can alley’’. Each can was awarded points and the points tallied for your team. The most points to a single shooter got vintage prizes collected at yard sales and storage auctions. The team that won got bragging rights for a full year. It was fun to watch the Relic Runners get competitive as others steered clear of the classic Red Ryder (in fear of shooting their eye out we suppose). The sun was setting as the winners of the BB gun shoot were awarded their prizes. The snack tables still had brownies and pineapple upside down cake on it, so people split their time around the dessert table and enjoying the water. Relic Runners continued to swap stories and favorite destinations well into the morning. 

Goodbye

Sunday morning had people stirring early taking down tents and folding up gear. As people gathered around the last coffee pot, heartfelt goodbyes were said, and info was exchanged for new friends. Rigs slowly made their way to the highway until camp was silent again leaving behind only tire tracks and footprints. 

The CJ5 and the K5 would leave camp together but split up about 250 miles into Utah. This was the moment vacation felt like it was finally ending. Each Relic Runner takes home a different experience. For some it’s the love of old 4×4’s, others its to embrace a time forgotten before data plans and streaming networks. For me, it’s the challenge resurrecting a vehicle to its original glory and showing the world its capabilities are still valid in this modern society. So, if you think you have what takes to build a vintage 4×4, love vintage camping gear, then it sounds like you might just be a Relic Runner.

About Ryan Kennelly:
Ryan Kennelly leads a team designers creating aftermarket off road products during the day. After work he builds vintage 4×4’s specifically for off road adventures. To follow along in real time, checkout @dirtstar2002 on Instagram. 

Hodson Motors’ Forest Service Ford F-250 Restomod

In our last feature installment starring the father and son duo at Hodson Motors, Derrick and Riley Hodson, we explored their amazing beast of a truck—the ’83 Jeep J10 they affectionately refer to as the JRT10. Outfitted with a V-10 Viper engine, SRT10 interior, a full 4-inch lift and all the fixins, along with a unique visual appeal that has become the Hodson’s calling card, the JRT10 is staying put in the permanent Hodson collection. However, the truck is always in high demand when fans are able to take a closer inspection. 

“Dad comes up with these crazy concepts for truck builds, briefs me on his vision, and sends me off to make it happen.”Riley Hodson

With so many impressive completed and in-progress projects to look at, we’ve decided to reserve some space on the Internet to take a well-deserved peek at a truck that means a lot to Derrick. “This 1964 Ford F250 is something particularly cool that my dad wanted to build”, Riley says. Now, for those who aren’t up to speed on how the Hodsons operate their shop, their method is pretty straightforward and very effective. “Dad comes up with these crazy concepts for truck builds, briefs me on his vision, and sends me off to make it happen”, adds Riley. This is the truck that really kick started Derrick’s truck collecting and established Riley’s work flow to make said trucks come to life. 

In the case of this F250, the plan was to dig up something quite rare, which is now par for the Hodson course, and add some special parts to really make it come together, which is also a common ingredient in the family recipe. “This truck here is actually a factory F250 4×4 short bed”, Riley admits. “But what really makes it unique is that it was a custom ordered short bed, as it was a brush fire truck with a water tank in the bed. These kinds of trucks were used at National Parks by the Forest Service.” 

The first step in the project was to first locate one of these trucks out in the wild, which is a process Riley now has down to a science. “The hard part is not really finding these trucks, it’s the actual digging them out of the far off, remote locations they are usually in, and dragging them back home to our shop in Las Vegas that poses the real challenge.” While we aren’t at liberty to discuss where this particular F250 was found, we can share the details about what was done to the truck to make it come out they way it did. 

Even though the truck is a rare bird as-is, the first thing Riley and his crew at Hodson Motors did was cut it up. The rear fenders were stretched three inches wider and 6 inches longer, and F600 medium duty fenders were grafted into place up front, as was a front clip from the same truck. To give the roof another six inches of additional headroom, an F800 tall cap was worked into the equation. 

To further make the truck their own, Riley and his crew built a completely custom bed for the F250, and also installed a unibody big back window to help brighten up the inside of the cab. Now, you may be wondering where the heck these guys are able to source so many killer parts from obscure trucks. Well, let’s just say the guys have been doing some healthy hoarding over the years, and know exactly where to get more.  

When all the metal work was done to the truck, it was sprayed with a green primer and left that way for quite some time. The guys started getting used to that green color, and ended up mixing a custom gunmetal gloss green hue to finish it off while keeping the looks of it somewhat familiar.  

To increase the big look of the truck shell itself and give it that Hodson Motors classic touch, the suspension was lifted a full four inches all around. The original frame and axles were utilized in the overhaul, and the roll cage you see—it’s made from 4-inch pipe, not hollow tube, so it’s super heavy and damn near bulletproof. To capitalize on the taller ride height, a set of 20-inch Method NV wheels were selected, as was a set of 38-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T tires to ensure the truck was as capable to handle rough terrain and not just look the part. 

Powering the F250 is a Lincoln 460 big block with a few add-ons in the way of a Sniper EFI self-tuning fuel injection system, and a C6 transmission. The engine compartment is clean and tidy, and is designed so to keep function a top priority. Also designed with function in mind, is the F250’s interior space, although a ton of form has also been thrown in for good measure. Freshly distressed leather was used on the bench seat, center console, and door panels for an plush vet vintage looking appearance. As with all the builds that Hodson creates, a lineup of usual creature comforts in the way of Dakota Digital gauges, full air conditioning, and power windows were included to modernize the feel of the interior. 

Imagine what the forest rangers back in the 60’s would say about what has become of one of their old work trucks. The Hodsons work their magic time and again in order to dream up and build the type of trucks that are now directly associated with their name. If this Ford gives you any tingles (as it should), check out some of the other Hodson Motors’ creations, and be sure to stay tuned to their social accounts for future projects that will be sure to push the envelope even further. 

Hodson Motors’ Viper-Powered Jeep JRT10

Lifted trucks, classic trucks, rare trucks—if you consider yourself a fan of either or all of these categories, then you’ve surely heard of Hodson Motors out of Las Vegas, NV. Derrick and his son Riley Hodson operate their modest shop in the middle of the desert that houses parts and pieces from some pretty not-often-seen medium duty pickups from the past. Crew cabs that you never even knew existed are there, as well the other key ingredients required to create their insanely cool one-off machines. 

So the way Derrick and Riley operate is pretty simple—Derrick comes up with the grand ideas, and then brainstorms with Riley and lets him loose on figuring out how to make those ideas come to life. The guys have come to rely on a network of tightly knit shops to assist in their builds over the years, and in that time the Hodsons have amassed quite the personal truck collection, including this 1983 Jeep J10 that they affectionately call the JRT10. Derrick started on it seven years ago alongside local Las Vegas off-road fabricator, Cameron Chin, who owns and operates Nefarious Kustoms. Wanting to finally button up the build, they kept running with their vision of a rarely seen Jeep pickup model beefed up and customized to meet their specialized criteria. Also on the docket were a couple of imported tricks to make the J10 truly different from the rest. 

In the end, the time-consuming engine swap was well worth the effort just for the sake of saying that the Jeep now has an SRT-10 mill under the hood…

With an engine swap already in the stars for the Jeep, the guys narrowed the running down to a Viper SRT-10 engine. Yeah, that’s quite the jump, and a little more in-depth than Riley had initially anticipated. “The install was complicated”, he admits. “The firewall had to be chopped, and the radiator actually had to be relocated back to the bed if you can believe that. It just didn’t fit in the engine bay, so we had to run stainless tubing for the water underneath the truck.” In the end, the time-consuming engine swap was well worth the effort just for the sake of saying that the Jeep now has an SRT-10 mill under the hood—and, it lent a hand in creating a pretty catchy nickname for the truck. 

Since the Hodsons have been building cool trucks on a more frequent basis over the past six years or so, they’ve whipped up their own winning recipe that is applied to all of their projects, which always includes a killer suspension setup. The Jeep now sits on a full front and rear 4-link suspension system complete with a caged rear frame and Radflo long travel remote reservoir coilovers, so you just know this thing rides comfortably—even on the rough stuff. 

With the all-around lifted ride height, a healthy set of rubber could be thrown into the mix without any clearance issues. 37-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T tires were selected for their tried and true all-terrain exploration capabilities. While tires of this stature are commonplace in the lifted truck scene, so is the use of stock fenders, unfortunately. Hodson Motors has come to appreciate the importance of keeping proportion in mind when incorporating large tires, and to do that they like to go with larger fenders to keep up. To give the JRT10 correct proportional balance, AutoFab wide body fenders were utilized up front while the bedsides were widened six inches with fresh three-inch wider rear fenders to boot. Now, give the truck another look. All that extra bodywork makes much more sense when understanding the method to their madness. 

With the truck getting closer to paint, the guys started debating what color to have it sprayed. A specific Lamborghini color caught their eye, but it turns out they don’t typically release the actual codes to their paint—go figure. Instead, Matthew Miller of Nefarious Kustoms had to trust his eyeballs to match up an opal blue metallic pearl color that came pretty damn close to the Lambo shade. He then sealed it up with an eggshell matte clear coat, and blacked out all the exterior trim for good measure. The original front end was swapped out with a Gladiator Rhino grille conversion, and new LED lighting was wired up for updated looks and increased nighttime visibility. 

Other items that were scavenged from the SRT-10 donor were the black suede power bucket seats and dash cluster, which look right at home inside the Jeep. “All of our builds also feature what I usually refer to as creature comforts”, Riley adds. “These are just the common modern amenities such as power locks and windows, and air conditioning—all those little things that we enjoy in our daily drivers should be included in custom classic builds as well.” With the added Bluetooth stereo system, push button start, leather-wrapped steering wheel and dash, and a whole lot more, the cab space feels much more plush than one might expect from the Jeep at first glance. 

While the JRT-10 is a permanent part of the Hodson Motors collection, it does serve as a representation of what type of truck Derrick and Riley enjoy building and driving. If their custom trucks are good enough to make them happy, it’s a safe bet the ones they create for their customers will be finished off even better. If you’re looking to check out some crazy off-road rigs that perform just as good as they look, Hodson will surely scratch the itch of the uncommon utility truck fanatic.

The Cleanest ’75 Ford Bronco On Dirt

Jeff Godbold admits that his time owning this ’75 Ford Bronco surely hasn’t been the most exciting era the truck has ever seen. Actually, since its lengthy, in-depth rebuild, the Bronco really hasn’t been worked all too hard, but that’s mainly due in part because of how clean it has come to be. Jeff purchased the Bronco from the guy who invested the time to completely blow it apart and piece back together again with parts and products that would ultimately allow it to perform and look better than it has in its 47 years in existence. And who’d want to go and get those kind of results muddy? 

“I purchased the Ford Bronco completely done in 2012”, Jeff says. “The guy I bought it from was an older retired police officer, who spent several years doing most of the work himself. With the exception of waiting a couple years for the bodywork and paint to be completed, he did his part in pretty good time.” 

Time, in fact, was something that the previous owner put a large emphasis on. When he sold the Bronco to Jeff, he also included a rather extensive parts and cost list, as well as a well-organized log of billable hours that accounted for everything from the 13-hour engine and transmission rebuild job on 1/20/2009 right down to the 2-hour wash and vacuum back on 10/10/2005. Every other imaginable modification in between is also accounted for, as you could imagine, which is awesome to see actually. This very detailed record keeping has given Jeff a level of insight most folks don’t get when buying someone else’s project vehicle. 

High on the list of completed chores was the rebuild of the 347ci stroker engine that has all the bells and whistles any gearhead would flip over, and to capitalize on all the extra performance gains, Jeff added an overdrive transmission after he took ownership of the Ford Bronco to make it more freeway-friendly. Also on the logbook is a 2-inch body lift with all new mounts and bolts, as well as new American Racing wheels, center caps, lug nuts and locks and finished off properly with 33-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T tires. 

This ’75 is basically a brand new rig, and has been built to easily conquer rugged terrain, although it has only been assigned light duty work since its completion. Don’t go pointing fingers at Jeff for this, as the previous owner also kept the Bronco in the garage most of the time since he thought it turned out too nice to have to power wash every weekend. 

It’s just one of those rare gems that is a direct product of someone’s grand vision, and in this case fueled by a period of his absolute mania.

“We’ve towed the Bronco with our motorhome and driven it around some during our outings, but nothing too crazy”, Jeff admits. “I’ve also taken it to a car show, even though that’s not really my thing, but the response to it was nothing short of amazing”, he adds. Even though the Bronco has been equipped to handle the trails, the quality of its reworking has placed it in the show vehicle category, which wasn’t the original intent. Either way, there’s something to be said about owning a classic off-road truck of this caliber. It’s just one of those rare gems that is a direct product of someone’s grand vision, and in this case fueled by a period of his absolute mania. 

At the end of the all-encompassing parts and labor list is a grand totaling of just about $63k, which sounds about right. There may have been some other costs that slipped by the last owner, but he didn’t seem like the type to leave anything out. Jeff didn’t pay that much to bring the Bronco home, naturally, but in today’s current market for vintage Ford Broncos, this number sits somewhere on the low end considering the extent of its rebuild. With the release of the new 2021 Ford Bronco, there seems to be an undeniable uptick in sales of classic models that could be peaking right now due to timely nostalgia. That’s what we’ve come up with anyway, but that sure would explain the spike in resale value. 

You’d be hard pressed to find another Bronco that has been restored to this ‘75’s pedigree. There’s always new evidence to be found of it with every inspection, and of course when pouring through the list of modifications that has been compiled during its transition. Jeff has had quite a number of custom vehicles in the 25 years that he’s been into cars, and even though he might not drive the Bronco as much as any of the others, he has appreciated the time spent with it. 

The moment has come for Jeff to release the ’75 Ford Bronco into the care of another owner, and he can only hope it might get more use in the dirt as it is certainly equipped to handle it. On the other hand, he wouldn’t blame them for deciding to continue the tradition of keeping the Bronco as clean as can be. What would your driving habits be with this machine if you happened to find yourself its next lucky owner?

Click Here to view the 1975 Ford Bronco on Bring A Trailer.

A Definitive Guide To 37, 38, And 40 Inch Tires

The number one question from 4×4 owners is what size tire fits on my rig. Designers used to leave some room in the wheel wells of most trucks; if you have an older model you can probably go up in size with just a little sheet metal trimming. On a 1990’s Ford F series for instance, 37’s will fit with no trimming needed. On newer vehicles they closed things up in order to provide better aerodynamics (less turbulence), around the wheel wells. This limits how large a tire you can run without a lift, or sheet metal trimming, and cut-out fender flares. Since it now takes much more effort to run bigger tires, why do so many truck owners run them, and what’s the difference between 37’s, or 38’s, and even 40 inch tires? For many people, they say the bigger the better.

Looks aside, your tires are the only thing between you and the ground — if you’re doing it right.

Most of us who modify our vehicles are concerned with function, but we also care about aesthetics. You wouldn’t purchase an expensive truck if you didn’t care about how it looks. There are also many who fall into the category of “form follows function,” who don’t necessarily prefer shiny paint, and chrome. These people still want their truck to look like it performs. Nobody wants to drive a silly looking truck, or one that looks like a pile. I’m not talking about patina. It shows that the vehicle is weathered, and probably has a few stories to tell. Patina is cool, but rusted out garbage is not. Despite which camp you fall into, when you see big tires on a 4×4, it makes the truck look amazing, and capable at the same time. You picture it climbing over rocks, and ruts, or anything else for that matter. 

Looks aside, your tires are the only thing between you and the ground — if you’re doing it right. Your tires might provide the appearance you’re after, but they are also vitally important to how your vehicle performs. Traction gets you through all types of terrain; mud, sand, snow, etc., but it’s also very important for stopping and steering. I’m sure some have been in the situation where you are hard on the throttle with the wheels turned, but the truck just goes straight. This can be anything from an annoyance, to a life threatening occurrence. All of a sudden, stopping becomes the number one priority. The bottom line is that your tires are important, and there are several reasons why bigger tires are better. 

It doesn’t matter how high the body is if your differential cover is excavating a trench.

First let’s talk about minimum ground clearance. The word minimum is important here. You can jack your truck up with 12 inches of lift if you want. That will get the body and frame high enough off the ground to clear a lot of obstacles. The problem is that the minimum ground clearance is between the differentials, and the ground. It doesn’t matter how high the body is if your differential cover is excavating a trench.

Eventually you will get hung up on something or high centered on the diff. If you are running independent suspension with four wheel drive you may have more ground clearance at the pumpkin, but your a-arms, traction beams, or uprights are still going to be in harm’s way. There are only 2 solutions for increasing the minimum ground clearance on your vehicle; running exotic planetary, or portal gears on each wheel, or taller tires.

Taller tires are the easier solution. Planetary gears attach to the housing ends on a straight axle, or are built into the suspension upright or spindle on an a-arm type suspension. You can gain several inches of minimum ground clearance this way but it causes other problems like a redesign of your steering linkage. They can also cause severe axle wrap on leaf spring suspensions. I’m not trying to dissuade you from going this route because portals are very cool, and functional, but you better have deep pockets, or your own machine shop and cad design program in order for it to be feasible. Just buy the taller tires.

There is also one other benefit of larger diameter tires, and that’s contact patch. The contact patch is the amount of tire rubber making contact with the ground. As the tire gets bigger in diameter, the contact patch grows. This has nothing to do with tire width; it’s more a product of circumference. The wider the tire, the greater the contact patch is in a let’s say east, west direction. The bigger diameter tire you have, the bigger the contact patch is in a north, south direction; or front to back if you’re looking at your rig. If your truck came with 31 inch tires from the factory, and you made the necessary changes to run 37’s, your contact patch would grow proportionately. Even more with a 40 inch tire. When you also increase the width, your performance can increase substantially. That means steering, and braking are also enhanced. 

Now you might suspect that there is a down side to running bigger rubber, and you would be right. You only need to know Newton’s Third Law of Motion to figure out that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Pushing those bigger tires down the road will negatively affect your fuel mileage. It will also require more torque to turn them. This creates a chain reaction that may have you modifying your entire drive line.

Axles, CV joints, drive shafts, gear sets, even your automatic transmission or clutch, if you have a manual gearbox, might have to be upgraded. But wait, there’s more. Once the outside diameter of your tires has increased, your brakes might not be up to the task. The greater circumference has to be taken into account. All the gains in braking control from an increase in contact patch might be negated if your brakes can’t stop you. Last but not least, you turning radius will also increase. That gets you closer to the edge of the trail when you’re doing a 3 point turn with no brakes. 

Before you freak out and give up on running 37 or 40 inch tires, just know that there are solutions to all the down sides. Your axles may hold up fine to bigger rubber. You may be able to do a gear swap in your differentials to bring your final drive ratio back to what it was. Bigger brakes are almost always a great enhancement to any rig. The bottom line is that 37, 38, or 40 inch tires are worth an investment in your rig to run them. They will take you places that people with smaller tires may never get to. Your rig will be much more capable when the terrain gets challenging.

Supercharged V8 Creates a Land Rover Defender Monster

Feb. 26 – Hefty V8s have been packing a punch in Land Rovers dating back to the 1970s, and the story continues with the new Land Rover Defender V8. This isn’t your run of the mill N/A V8, but a potent new supercharged V8, available in both 90 and 110 body styles. Iain Gray, Senior Manager, Powertrain Advanced Engineering, says “The 5.0-liter V8 supercharged engine further enhances the unique character of the Defender. It sounds fantastic and delivers incredible performance — providing new levels of driver appeal.” 

Speaking of performance, that 5.0-liter supercharged V8 in the Land Rover Defender produces 518 hp, and 461 lb-ft of torque. That power is delivered through an eight-speed automatic transmission. The Defender 90, or 2-door model, with the V8 package can accelerate to 60 mph in just 4.9 seconds, and sprint all the way to its top speed of 149 mph. Although extremely quick, and faster than any Defender model before it, the new Defenders aren’t just know for their speed. 

Inside the new Land Rover Defenders, you’ll find a unique suspension system, including bespoke spring and damper rates, and a new Electronic Active Rear Differential. This new technologically advanced equipment delivers more agile and engaging handling with heightened body control — you’ll also get to hear the lovely sounds of the supercharged V8. 

To continue on the Defenders exceptional off-roadability, Land Rover has introduced a new Dynamic program within the Terrain Response system. The program helps the driver exploit the more dynamic character and handling balance of the 518 hp model on tarmac and loose surfaces. In the setting, a sharper throttle response and bespoke tuning for the Continuously Variable Damping combine with the stiffer suspension for immediate steering response. 

Moving on to the looks of the new Defenders, the V8 models will be badged with unique emblems, while also coming with a distinctive quad exhaust and 22-inch alloy wheels. Another giveaway that the Defender is indeed housing a supercharged V8 is the Xenon blue front brake calipers and 15-inch brake discs. 

You’d better want to get your wallet ready for these prices, though. The base Defender 90 and 110 start at around $50,000, but as soon as you introduce the supercharged V8, you’ll be looking at a near $100,000 price tag. 

Old Meets New With the Land Rover Defender V8 Trophy

Feb. 15 – Heads up off-road adventurers, Land Rover Classic is building 25 re-engineered Defender Works V8 Trophy vehicles for an adventure of a lifetime. The brand will be continuing the formidable expedition legacy of the original Defender, creating this limited run of adventure-ready Defender Works V8 Trophy vehicles. The re-engineered masterpieces will then be used for an exclusive competition at Eastnor Castle in 2021.

These extremely capable off-road Land Rovers are based on the re-engineered 2012-2016 Defender Works V8 spec developed by Land Rover Classic, and will include a 400 horsepower 5.0-liter V8. Also included is an 8-speed ZF automatic transmission, an upgraded suspension, steering and braking packages, and a wide range of additional upgrades specifically tailored for off-road use. 

Dan Pink, Director of Land Rover Classic, states “The Land Rover Defender has always been more than just a vehicle, its engineering capability and suitability for overland expedition and all-terrain competition means it’s renowned with getting away from it all. The new Land Rover Trophy will bring this to life for a new generation of adventurers.” 

To begin, Land Rover has taken a mixture of 90 and 110 Station Wagon body designs, each being finished in an exclusive and unique Eastnor Yellow paint with matching 16-inch steel wheels. The Defender Works V8 Trophy will be built to handle the most demanding and rugged challenges. Land Rover will be adding an entire all-terrain kit, which includes a front winch, multi-point expedition cage, roof rack, underbody protection, a raised air-intake, LED spotlights and M/T tires. 

Inside the Defender Works V8 Trophy is a full black Windsor leather upholstery with Recaro seats and  a bespoke Land Rover Trophy clock face by Elliot Brown. 

The Land Rover Trophy Event will start with owners putting their names, along with their co-drivers, on the vehicle along with their country of origin. Owners will then set out on the adventure with guidance by an off-loading expert to give the customers a unique opportunity to develop extreme driving techniques and skills. A grand prize for the winner of the exclusive competition at Eastnor Castle will be announced later this year. Prices for the Land Rover Defender Works V8 Trophy start at $236,000. 

All-Terrain Tires vs. Mud-Terrain Tires

Consumers have a massive amount of options to choose from when it comes to tires. Going beyond the aesthetics of the tires and breaking down the performance, which is better, an all-terrain tire or a mud-terrain tire?

All-terrain (A/T) tires are designed to cover the most amount of terrains including where the vehicle is most commonly at, on pavement. Able to give decent traction on dirt roads and light snow while still coming with mileage warranties, road hazard warranties, smooth rides and general flexibility.

Mud-terrain (M/T) tires were once used nearly exclusively for mud, deep sand or heavy snow. Now, technology has allowed them to expand further and they are widely used in nearly all forms of off-road and many companies have shifted to naming them Maximum-Traction tires.

There has been a gap between the two, however. In recent years, a new option has become more readily available. Hybrid-terrain (or aggressive all-terrain) tires strive to blend A/Ts and M/Ts for a performance minded consumer that still wants the mileage warranty and good road manners of an A/T while getting more traction like an M/T.

All-Terrain Tires

There are many different off-road terrains out there and many of the vehicles that traverse them also spend the majority of their time on the highways and surface streets going about daily life. “Our philosophy with an A/T is something that’s got a broad range of sizes because this is where most of the light-truck market is at.” Explained Martin Castro, Events and Activation Manager for Milestar Tires. “You need to have confidence in things like mileage warranty, 30-day ride guarantee with our Patagonia AT-R, road hazard assurances and having the peace of mind of having the right load rated tires.”

A/Ts will not be amazing performers on extreme or harsh terrains. The tightly spaced lugs and harder compounds work phenomenal on roads, hardpack dirt, and snowy road conditions but they will not grab rocks or sling/float on mud and soft sand the same way M/Ts do.

Good A/Ts come with 40,000+ mile warranties, staggered tread blocks with zig zag sipping to clear debris and water quickly, maintaining better contact with the road. Many of them also carry the Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake symbol which means it was been independently tested and approved for severe snow conditions.

Mud-Terrain/Maximum-Traction Tires

M/Ts are often the gold-standard of off-road performance. Huge lugs with high void tread designs for debris to be cleared, grippy rubber compounds with extra blocks on the sidewalls for airing down. The wide footprint lends itself well to floating on top of mud and sand, and the specifically designed lugs grab and scoop soft terrain or grab tightly to rocks.

M/Ts are, however, durable beasts.

Where M/Ts lack is longevity. The slightly softer compound and extreme use means they just don’t last as long as A/Ts, especially on highways. They tend to be louder due to the high voids trapping air beneath them and often require more frequent rotations to different positions on the vehicle to keep them properly worn.

M/Ts are, however, durable beasts. Able to take a hit far better, tires like the Milestar Patagonia M/T feature a 3-ply sidewall that provides added strength and impact protection. Many M/Ts have smaller portions designed into the bottom of the voids that act as stone ejectors, helping to keep those areas clear and able to grab more terrain. “M/Ts need to have really good traction in extreme terrains.” Said Martin. “Snow wheeling is a huge part of yearly vehicle use for many people, both for fun and necessity so the M/T has to have great floatation and act like a snowshoe on the snow or sand by dispersing the load out.”

Hybrid-Terrain Tires

Hybrid-terrain tires target the best of what A/Ts and M/Ts have to offer. Larger lugs and voids than a standard A/T, stronger sidewalls and extra shoulder blocks while maintaining all-weather road performance and a Three-Peak rating.

“The hybrid-terrain is the evolution of the standard A/T.” Martin explains. “On the Milestar Patagonia X/T, we have combined the strength of the 3-ply side wall and rugged tread blocks on Maximum-Traction tires with the all-weather traction, longevity and smoother ride of All-Terrain tires.”

A good hybrid tire is designed to be aggressive in some areas and tame in others. Expertly designed tread patterns allow for hybrids to gain more traction by stepping up the block and void sizes without severely compromising ride quality, wet traction and mileage expectations. One of the ways Milestar does this is by using a variable pitch tread pattern that alternates the pitch sequence, staggering them in just the right way that produces a quieter ride.

Keep in mind though that hybrid tires are still a hybrid. A middle ground between two ends of a spectrum. They likely will not out perform a M/T on rocks or in mud and most likely wont beat a mild A/T on the street.

The Final Decision

The final decision is up to you. The fact is, most vehicles that are used off-road end up with far many more on-road miles than they do off-road. Every vehicle and every driver are going to have different requirements, even as simple as looks will have an affect on your final choice. As an enthusiast, you’ll need to decide whether you want some performance with lots of on-road benefits, high off-road performance that sacrifices longevity and ride or a blend between the two.

Toyota Land Cruiser: Born From War

The history of the American Jeep is well known. Used by soldiers in World War II, it earned a reputation for toughness that endures today. Many will be surprised to learn that the Toyota Land Cruiser has a similar pedigree. During the war, an American Bantam Mk II was captured in the Philippines, and sent to Japan. The military ordered Toyota to reverse engineer it and they came up with the AK model. It was purposely designed to look differently than the Bantam. The Japanese Imperial Army named it the Yon-Shiki Kogata Kamotsu-Sha (type 4 compact cargo-truck). The AK was made in few numbers, and rare photos exist of them in action. In 1942, the AK10 came along. It also used reverse engineering from the Bantam and this time was much closer in looks to the Bantam.

In 1950, Japan was still occupied by US forces after it surrendered in 1945; ending World War II. The goal of US occupation was to create political stability and spur economic growth. When a new conflict began on the Korean Peninsula, US forces looked for military vehicles that could be produced in Japan. The AK design was further refined into the model BJ. It was the BJ that later became the Land Cruiser. The BJ was called the Toyota Jeep. It looked similar to the Willys design with its vertical grille bars, flat fenders, and boxy shape. The Jeep name was a registered trademark of Willys-Overland, so Toyota apologized for the use, and dropped the name. It became simply the model BJ with many conjecturing that the J was for Jeep; although that has never been substantiated.

The Jeep name was a registered trademark of Willys-Overland, so Toyota apologized for the use, and dropped the name.

Toyota was building trucks long before World War II. They had parts and tooling available that could be adapted to the new military vehicle. The chassis of the BJ came from Toyota’s model SB one-ton truck. The same truck donated its rear axle to the BJ. The SB rear axle was modified as a steering axle, and adapted for use in the front. The model SB had only a 995cc (60.7 cubic inch) 4 cylinder engine which would not suffice, so they dropped in the type B 3389cc (206.8 cubic inch) six-cylinder engine that produced 85 horsepower and 156 lb-ft. of torque. The BJ was offered in five configurations; touring liaison, two pickup truck variations, a mobile communication truck, and outfitted for firefighting.   

The Toyota BJ was built and subjected to several tough trials that included climbing to the 6th station of Mount Fuji, a feat that had never been done before. Despite the impressive demonstrations, the initial design was rejected. The contract was awarded instead to a Mitsubishi-built Willys-Overland. Undaunted by the first rejection, Toyota went after utility companies, and other fleet operators. After continued development, the BJ was adopted by the Japanese National Police Agency in 1953.

In 1954, the name Land Cruiser was adopted. Then in November of 1955, Toyota created the Model BJ25. It was a complete redesign of the Model BJ Land Cruiser. They also introduced the FJ25 that used the F engine. The original BJ was intended to be a military vehicle. The new BJ, and FJ Land Cruisers were targeted towards the general public. Toyota shortened the wheelbase for better maneuverability. Also intended to be more user friendly, the truck’s transmissions were equipped with syncromesh. The interior dimensions were increased, and the suspension was revised to provide a smoother ride. Gone were the crude one-ton truck parts that were originally used on the BJ model.

The truck became a world-wide success. In 1955, Toyota was exporting to 14 countries. Of those exports, 98 were Land Cruisers. The following year those numbers expanded to 518 Land Cruisers sent to 35 countries, and in 1957 2,502 Land Cruisers were sent to 47 countries around the world. The list of countries included the United States. One single Land Cruiser was sold in the states in 1957, but the humble beginnings would later develop into a huge market. US sales in 1960 had grown to 162 trucks. By 1987 the US numbers were an impressive 8,858 units sold. Toyota production worldwide had reached over 1.1 million trucks.

Several styles of truck all shared the Land Cruiser name. Foremost was the FJ40 which was so good, it remained basically unchanged from 1960 to 1984. The long wheelbase FJ40 evolved into a new design; the FJ55. Built with typical Toyota quality, the FJ55 was a wagon, but still had a fully boxed frame, and excellent suspension for offroad use. It could comfortably cruise at 80 miles per hour on the highway. Over the years, the Land Cruiser wagon morphed into several models, but sadly FJ40 production ceased in 1984. It was replaced by the FJ70 that was never imported into the United States.

In 2003, a retro looking mid-sized SUV was unveiled by Toyota as a concept car at the North American International Auto Show. The FJ Cruiser took design ques from the FJ40, but departed heavily from the original design. Gone was the straight axle front end (and the unique feature of having both front, and rear pumpkins on the same side which allowed you to dodge rocks). The basic utilitarian vehicle had grown into a bloated monster that was difficult to see out of. It was popular with a new group of owners, but did not resound with the traditional FJ40 enthusiast. Original FJ40’s and their FJ55 cousins demand high prices on the used market. Several companies exist that restore originals, or will build a new one from scratch. Either option will cost you 6 figures.     

Does Tire Compound Even Matter?

For many people, the only thing they demand from their tires is that they hold air. They don’t know anything about tire construction, the materials used, or attributes of different tread designs. When it comes time to buy, they believe all tires are the same. They choose the cheapest they can find, or insist on the brand they are most familiar with. “Dad always ran brand x tires, so I will run those too. Dad knows what’s best”. These people are notorious for abusing their tires more than the guy down the street who can’t stop doing burnouts.

I’m sure you’ve had to roll down your window in traffic, or mention to someone in a parking lot that their tire is under-inflated, or sometimes even flat. For those people, the exhaustive work of technicians, test drivers, and product development engineers goes pretty much unappreciated. They purchase tires only when they absolutely have to.

On the other end of the spectrum are the enthusiasts who are pushing the limits of their vehicles on a regular basis. If you find one of them with a low tire, it’s because they set it there. They have all kinds of fancy gizmos to air their tires down for maximum footprint, and increase traction, and then to pump them back up again. They bring their own compressors along, and some even have on board air systems with storage tanks, and other accessories. They use that compressed air for obnoxious train horns, to blow dust or dirt out of their rig, or to pressurize a water tank for a trailside shower. Compressed air can really come in handy.

Then there is TPMS; Tire Pressure Monitoring System. From a gauge on the dash a driver can tell nearly exactly how much air pressure they have in each tire (even the spare on the rack) in real time, while they’re driving. It’s much easier to go online and argue whether 10 pounds is the best pressure to run on the rocks, or if 11.5 pounds works better in the sand when you know exactly how much pressure you are running.

The enthusiasts are the ones who delve into the fine details that make up a tire. They know the difference between a bias ply tire, and a radial; how steel belts vary from polyester, nylon or rayon cords. They understand the tire engineer’s lingo of rock ejectors, tread squirm, high void, staggered blocks, siping, etc. Ask the average person on the street what a tire bead is, and they will just look at you puzzled. Anyone who has ever built a beadlock wheel knows what it is, and that the shape, and thickness is critical to getting a good seal on the wheel.

It’s true that many off-road enthusiasts know quite a bit about tires. They might even know what size tire fits which truck, and what the proper wheel offset is in order to clear the fenders without trimming (the number one asked question on the internet). However, not a whole lot of tire buyers think about the rubber compound used. That information doesn’t show up on websites, in brochures, or in the carefully polished sales pitch from the guy at the tire store. Is it important? Why does it matter?

I can tell you from first-hand experience that the rubber compound used is just as important as any other component of a tire. A friend of mine showed up for a trip we took (way back in the 1980’s actually), with a brand new set of tires. We drove out to the mountains on the pavement, ran some trails, and then did a high speed bomb run down some graded fire roads. Once we got back to the pavement for the trip home, we noticed his tires were literally shredded. He had deep slices in the tread blocks and several chunks missing from the tread. He did not know that the tires he bought had a very soft compound. Although they were new, they got torn up from wheel spin on the rocky fire roads. The tread compound was way too soft for the sharp rocks.

Those tires were perfect for mud, sand, or slick rock, but not suited for sharp rocks. Those tires were too soft, but your tires can also be too hard. At the same time that my friend bought those super soft tires, I had military take offs on my Jeep. They had a very aggressive tread design, and were very tough. The compound on those tires was very hard because they were designed to last a long time. They worked great when they could dig into the ground, but on slick, or smooth surfaces they were junk. In cold temperatures they got hard as a rock. They were bias plies so they rode rough as hell.

Those are two examples of tread compound from both extremes; too hard, and too soft. So what’s the perfect tread compound? That depends on what you need. Tire engineers have to weigh a lot of variables when they make this determination. Usually a tire will be configured for the street, part street, and part off-road, or mostly off road. Of course there is also a choice for off road only; The Milestar Patagonia M/T “Black Label” is super soft by design.

It’s for people who want maximum traction above all else. If you compare the Patagonia A/T R, with the Patagonia M/T you will notice right away that they look differently. The tread pattern of each tire is suited for their intended uses. The A/T R is designed more for the street, than the dirt. It will still perform in the dirt, but is rated higher than the M/T in ride comfort, and mileage. Obviously, if you are driving long distances on the pavement to get to the trail, tread wear is important.

The A/T R comes with a 50K tread wear warranty plan. The tread pattern itself helps to increase mileage by having smaller voids, but the tread compound also makes a big difference. The tread compound of the M/T is softer, and when I say softer I mean more flexible. Engineers can measure how soft the rubber is using a gauge that’s called a Durometer; the firmer the rubber, the higher the number. Which tread design and tread compound you choose depends on what your needs, and desires are. If you want better tread life, go with the A/T R. If you spend most of your time in the dirt, go with the M/T. If you still want more, choose the “Black Label” for the ultimate in traction. 

A V8 Resurrection: The Hennessey VelociRaptor V8 Bronco

November 03, 2020 – Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve probably heard that Ford is bringing back the Bronco. You probably also know that Ford is releasing a ton of different packages for it, but one thing lacking in the entire lineup is the use of a V8.

Enter Hennessey Performance, a company that’s been making fast cars go faster since 1991. They figured if Ford wasn’t going to put out a V8 Bronco, they’d take on the responsibility. This wouldn’t be just any Bronco, this would be a VelociRaptor, and that 5.0 liter V8 would be accompanied by a 3.0 liter Supercharger system.

The Hennessey VelociRaptor V8 Bronco and its supercharged 5.0 liter V8 will put out an impressive 750 hp, and of course be mated to a 10-speed automatic transmission. This improved power and performance have Hennessey estimating 0-60 times of just 4.5 seconds, an incredible number for a rig originally built to handle the harshest of off-road terrain.

The Bronco won’t just receive an engine upgrade, but also a plethora of interior and exterior upgrades as well. Included will be a custom hood with scoop, larger wheels and tires, upgraded suspension system, custom Hennessey leather interior, VelociRaptor V8 racing livery graphics, upgraded stainless steel exhaust, and more.

If you’re ready to get your hands on 1 of only 24 Hennessey VelociRaptor V8 Broncos, you’d better hurry, and you’ll also want to have $225,000 plus vehicle shipping costs ready to purchase it.

All-New 2022 GMC Hummer EV Revealed

October 21, 2020 – Don’t compare this new GMC HUMMER to its relatives, this isn’t an ordinary civilian Humvee. GMC just created a silent assassin ready to conquer anything on and off-road. 

The 2022 GMC HUMMER EV Edition 1 is, you read that correctly, an EV. In the past, you may have thought the HUMMER was a car you could see yourself owning, but never could see that gas bill fitting into your budget. Well now, the HUMMER is utilizing GM’s all-new Ultium battery architecture, offering optimal driving range and will enable performance and capabilities that would not be possible with a conventional vehicle architecture and propulsion system. In addition to power and range, the Ultium battery pack will contribute to the HUMMER EV’s driving dynamics and structure. The pack’s low mounting position in the chassis contributes to a low center of gravity, enhancing the vehicle’s overall feeling of control and stability. The truck itself was designed around the EV propulsion system, a first for GM.

Where the road ends and the dirt begins is where the HUMMER truly shines. Features such as Crabwalk, allowing for front and rear-steer, Ultravision, eighteen available camera views including waterproof underbody cameras, and Extract Mode, lifting the HUMMER by approximately 6 inches, give the driver that much more control off-road.

But what’s the fun in cruising on and off-road without superb views. The HUMMER EV features and immersive infinity roof with modular sky panels, creating an open-air experience. All four roof panels come off and can be stored in the power trunk. When the panels are on, they include transparent sky panels, tinted to deflect the sun and help protect you from the elements while still giving you breathtaking views.

The real fun for the 2022 GMC HUMMER is in the performance numbers. Looking back to older generations, you’d never think of describing one as quick or fast. Well now with the available Watts to Freedom, you’ll get 1000 hp and a 0-60 time of 3 seconds. GMC has created a new monster that we didn’t expect. To make it quicker, the truck lowers by 3” in this mode, lowering the center of gravity.

With its revolutionary design, impressive performance numbers, and on and off-road capabilities, the 2022 GMC HUMMER EV will be a truck to keep your eyes on. Watch out Wrangler and Bronco, there is a new beast in town.

Long Wheelbase and Short, The Pros, and Cons.

I’ll cut to the chase right now, there is no “winner” when it comes to the debate over short wheelbase or long; they are two separate things like apples and oranges. Instead we can talk about their strengths and weaknesses. Your local trail might have rocks, or mud, or sand on the same trail. Unless your area offers only one single type of terrain, you will have to make a choice which is better for your particular likes, and dislikes. We can look at data, but in the end, it will come down to your own opinion which works best for you. 

“The FORD’s wheelbase is, wait for it, 168.4 inches. That’s over twice as long as the Jeep.”

Since we are in the realm of opinion, I will offer mine. I come by my opinion after owning both long and short wheelbase 4×4’s, and wheeling them in varied terrain. The first 4 wheel drive I ever owned was a 1984 Jeep CJ7 which I bought new off the lot. It had the 258 inline 6, and a manual 4 speed transmission. I was living, and wheeling in the mountains, so for self-preservation I kept it low to the ground. I had an add a leaf in each spring, and extended shackles. The minimum lift was to clear the 36 inch tall Goodyear Wrangler R/T tires. Out of my group, I was the only truck not to end up on its lid, so I was doing something right. The Jeeps wheelbase was 83.5 inches.

My long wheelbase truck is the one I currently own. It’s a 1992 FORD F350 4×4 crew cab. Yes, it’s a beast. I’ve installed a shackle reversal kit in the front to improve the ride quality which lifts the truck about 5 inches. The front kit also uses longer superduty length leaf springs, and custom Atlas springs in the rear level the truck and further improve the handling. It rides on 37 inch tall tires. With the longer wheelbase, additional height is not as much as a concern. I have a classic Warn winch bumper on front with an original Warn M10000 winch that has only been used to winch a fallen tree on my neighbor’s property, and other trucks that have gotten stuck. I have never been stuck in this truck so far, (I’ve owned it for 6 years). The FORD’s wheelbase is, wait for it, 168.4 inches. That’s over twice as long as the Jeep.

“There are places where the long wheelbase just will not fit. In more open terrain, the long wheelbase can hold its own.”

Now that I have quantified my bonafides, let’s get into the meat of the subject. One thing I really liked about the Jeep had nothing to do with performance, but it rates mentioning. Between the 36 inch tires, and 3” diameter side bars, those jerks that open their door into yours in the parking lot were entirely inconsequential. They hit either rubber, or steel. Door dings or paint chipping was not even possible. The big FORD has a mile of sheet metal that gets dinged all the time. The truck is big, and parking stalls get smaller all the time.

When I owned the Jeep I was either hitting local trails in the Santa Cruz Mountains, or spending time out at the Hollister Hills OHV Park. Hollister had an obstacle course that included a tire pit. The tire pit was instant doom for the short wheelbase. The front tires would kick those loose tires right up into the back axle; wedging them between the tires, and the frame. Most of you won’t find a tire pit out on the trail, but the same goes for branches, or any other unsecure flotsam you might find. The short wheelbase means both front and rear axles will be in the same situation.

If it’s rocky, both will be in the rocks. The same is true for mud or loose sand. With the longer wheelbase, the front and rear axles can be in different time zones. While the front tires are clawing through a mud hole, the rear tires can be getting excellent traction in drier or less slippery conditions. For pure traction, I give the advantage to the longer wheelbase. One thing that beats the long wheelbase is that the shorter wheelbase is so much more maneuverable. You can fit it in tighter spots which might allow you to avoid the hazard all together. When it comes to hill climbing, the same maneuverability of the short wheelbase can cause problems. Backing down a hill is much more challenging because slight inputs to the steering wheel will cause the rear end to change direction abruptly. On the other hand, during a failed attempt you might be able to whip the Jeep around, and drive straight down the hill. That would just not be possible in the big FORD. Some say that the long wheelbase has an advantage during side-hilling, but I will give put that in the toss up category. The long wheelbase has the greater risk of getting high centered. I have found that the traction advantage, and the fact that you can usually rock the truck back and forth until you get traction makes it easier to get back on your wheels with the long wheelbase. If you do get high centered with a short wheelbase, you are generally screwed. It’s a good chance that both axles will be off the ground. 

When it comes to tight trails, the short wheelbase wins hands down. There are places where the long wheelbase just will not fit. In more open terrain, the long wheelbase can hold its own. Based on pure performance it’s a matter of preference, but you also have to consider utility. One of the biggest drawbacks of the short wheelbase rig is limited cargo room. It’s easy to take some of the capabilities away if you add a roof top rack, or tons of weight hanging off the back because there is no room inside the vehicle. You have much more room to place your gear down low, and between the axles in the bigger truck.

If you are towing, it’s no contest. My FORD will tow anything, and you won’t be able to tell it’s back there. The same goes for ride quality. The short wheelbase and short body means that the leaf springs or suspension links will also be short. The result is less wheel travel, and a choppy ride. The big truck rides surprisingly well after the leaf spring upgrades. The limiting factor is the weight capacity. A certain amount of spring rate is necessary if you want to tow, or carry a slide in camper. You see, the two are really not the same. There is a solution available that will give you the best of both. Tow your Jeep behind your big truck on a trailer. 

X/T vs A/T R Tires:

Which Patagonia Tire Is Better for Your Application?

Tires are the most important modification you can make to your off-road vehicle. Think about it; they are the point of contact between your rig, and the ground. Do you want your vehicle wearing hiking boots, or flip flops? Although they are very different, both types of footwear offer superior performance when used as intended; the same goes for your tires. To the casual observer, Milestar Tires Patagonia X/T, and A/T R might look similar, but the fine details set these tires apart.

When engineers design tires, they have to target the intended use of the tire, what types of vehicles will use the tire, and many other factors in order to come up with the end result. A tire that will do duty on a heavy 4×4, or large truck is different from something intended for street use on a passenger car. It’s easy to look at both extremes, and point out the differences, but what about those tires in the product line that are much more versatile? The Milestar Patagonia A/T R, and X/T can be used on a wide range of vehicles. That’s why they are available in a variety of sizes, and load ranges from 15 inch diameters, all the way up to 20 inches. Load ranges on the A/T R include C, D, and E. The X/T ranges from D to F.

Load range letters designate the weight carrying capacity of a tire based on the amount of air pressure they can hold, and number of plies found in their construction. As the letters go down the alphabet, the capacity rises. A load range F tire can hold much more weight than a load range C. Typically a higher load range will also mean a stiffer side wall that will affect the ride quality on pavement, and the ability of the tire to be aired down off road. If you have a light weight 4×4 like a Suzuki Samurai, or a bobbed Toyota pick-up, you don’t need the same load range tire as a full size diesel crew cab 4×4 hauling a slide-in camper. However, advances in tire technology have allowed for greater strength of materials used in construction. Therefore a newer system based more on weight capacity rather than amount of plies is now in use. The older letter designation will probably be phased out. For now, Milestar tires carry both designations.

Take for instance a Patagonia XT in size 37×12.50-R17LT. The load rating is D, and the service index is 124Q. If you look at a load capacity conversion chart you will see that the 124 designates a load capacity of 3,527 pounds. The Q is the speed rating that happens to be 99 miles per hour. If we compare the same sized tire in the X/T, and the A/T R, you will see that they both have the same weight rating despite the A/T R having 2 ply sidewall construction, and the XT having 3 plies. Milestar engineers have figured out how to use different materials and construction to allow different properties in the 2 tires without sacrificing load capacity. The A/T R can have a smoother ride on pavement, and the XT can have greater sidewall puncture, and abrasion resistance. Now you know the reason why the new system is needed.

Next we come to rubber compound. To put it into simplest terms, the harder the compound, the greater the mileage you will get out of the tire. The softer the compound, the greater it will grip. That’s not to say that a harder compound can’t grip as well; that’s where tread design comes into play. Of course, you have to take terrain into the equation. In off-road situations, not only does the tire have to grip, but it also needs to flex in order to conform to uneven surfaces. The A/T R has a tread life rating of 4.5, and a 50 thousand mile tread life warranty. If within 5 years from the date of installation, the tire wears evenly across the tread down to the tread wear indicators (2/32nds of an inch of tread remaining) before providing the minimum warranted miles of service as indicated by the vehicle odometer, a credit will be issued toward the purchase of a new tire on a pro-rated basis to the actual mileage received. The XT has a 40 thousand mile warranty. The difference between the two tires is the tread compound. The X/T has to be more flexible, so it’s a softer compound. This gives us another hint as to which tire is right for you.

So far we’ve looked at some fairly simple aspects of tire design. Once we look at tread design, it starts to get a little more complicated. Let’s first look at the extremes. A drag race tire is completely smooth, and very soft. It is built for maximum traction on a smooth, clean, and dry surface. A sand tire (commonly referred to as a paddle tire) has big scoops that dig into the soft sand. Neither one would be practical on the street. Any tire that drives on the roadway has to have the handling characteristics capable of steering, braking, and accelerating in many varied conditions. Roads can be wet, or dry; smooth, or bumpy, hotter than a frying pan, or covered in ice. Once you travel off the road, you encounter all kinds of surfaces like mud, rocks, sand, or silt. Has anyone tried to pull a boat and trailer up a grass covered hill down by the lake? I think the technical term is slicker than snot. That’s where the tread design comes into play, and that’s where the A/T R, and X/T start to have greater differences.

While both tires have off-road capability, the A/T R has a tread design that puts more rubber on the road to give better performance on the pavement. The X/T is more suited for off road use due to its deeper and wider voids that shed mud, and dig into loose dirt. Both tires are a great addition to any rig; it just depends on your needs. If you travel long distances on the highway to get to the trails, the A/T R’s exceptional tread life, and good road manners might be your choice. Those who get into more challenging conditions might like the flexibility, and more aggressive tread pattern of the X/T. Either way, Milestar Tires has you covered.

Will the Jeep Always Be the Overlanding Champ?

When it comes to off-road capabilities, few vehicles are in the same league as the venerable Jeep. The Jeep was a pioneer in off-road travel, and has been at the forefront of 4 wheeling for decades. The Jeeps usefulness in most any off-road driving situation is unquestionable, but what about its strengths, and weaknesses when it comes to overlanding?      

Some will say overlanding is just a fancy word for camping, while others say it’s more complicated than that.

Overlanding has become extremely popular in the last several years. One reason why it has such a huge following is because it cannot really be defined. It covers such a wide spectrum of vehicles, and pursuits, it allows almost anyone traveling off-road to fit under the overlanding umbrella. You can overland in a million dollar, six wheel drive house on wheels, or an all-wheel drive car with good tires. All it takes are good tires, and some off-road driving skills.

Some will say overlanding is just a fancy word for camping, while others say it’s more complicated than that. For me, the definition of overlanding is being capable of off-road travel while being fully self-contained. You should be able to support all your needs for several days or weeks without the benefit of running water or power from the grid.

Overlanding should not be confused with Boondocking. Boondocking is also being self-contained, and miles from support, but typically when you are boondocking you are staying at a destination. Overlanding is more about traveling to and from destinations.

The emphasis is on the trip, not necessarily the destination. With that in mind, the perfect rig for overlanding lies somewhere in between the all-wheel drive car, and the huge motorhome that may have 4wd, and some off-road capabilities. The region where you are overlanding also places confines on the configuration of a suitable overlanding rig. A 30 foot long, 12 foot high, and 8 foot wide truck based rig is just fine in the wide open desert, but would be tortuous in tight, off-camber trails deep in the forest canopy. In comparison, the all-wheel drive car fits on even the most overgrown 2 tracks you will find in the East. It’s also right at home on the many dirt roads found in the southwestern United States. The problem with a small car-based vehicle is that you lack the rugged construction, power, and ground clearance of a truck. You also run out of space quickly.

It won’t take long to exceed both the space limitations, and the weight carrying capacity of your car-based overlander; even with your titanium spork, and carbon fiber lawn chair.

One of the harsh realities of overlanding is “where do I put all this stuff?” If you are going to be spending the week in the cool mountains you can probably get away with less water than you would in the desert. The National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine have determined that in a temperate climate a person should drink between 3 and 4 liters of water per day to stay hydrated. That’s a gallon or so a day per person, in mild temperatures, and without exertion. If you are participating in strenuous labor (like chopping firewood, shoveling dirt, or changing a flat tire), obviously your intake needs to increase as you sweat it out.

Just as notable, if you are in a hot desert, or humid forest, your needs will also be increased. Let’s say you are on the high end of the scale and need twice the recommended water just for hydration; we are not including washing, or cooking needs. For a 7 day trip that’s 14 gallons of water per person. With the weight of water being 8.34 lbs. per gallon, that’s 116 lbs. of water you need to carry per person. Then you need food, tools, gear, spare parts, sleeping accommodations, kitchen utensils, etc, etc. It won’t take long to exceed both the space limitations, and the weight carrying capacity of your car-based overlander; even with your titanium spork, and carbon fiber lawn chair.

On the other end of the spectrum is the huge truck based camper. You have the space, and the weight carrying capacity to haul all that water, but you also have to push the weight. On the big heavy trucks fuel becomes an issue. Gasoline is only 6.3 lbs. per gallon, but you’ll have to carry a lot to have any range. The big rigs are right at home in open spaces, but navigating narrow canyons, or tight trails can be extremely challenging when you’re 12 feet tall, 8 feet wide, and have the turning radius of an ocean liner.

Clearly the best rig for overlanding is something in the middle of these two extremes. You want it to be small enough to navigate tight trails, but with ample ground clearance, and strong suspension components. It needs to get good fuel mileage, and enough capacity for extended range. It has to have enough room for cargo, and still be comfortable for passengers. It needs the strength of a truck chassis to handle the weight, and not twist itself to the point of failure. It’s also beneficial to be able to tow a trailer, and to have secure frame attachment points for recovery. Finally, it has to have a big enough platform to either sleep inside, or mount a realistically sized rooftop tent.

When you add it all up, nothing really compares to the venerable Jeep. Now I have to admit, the earlier CJ’s, and their short wheelbase cousins are lagging when it comes to cargo space, and room for passengers, but the longer wheelbase Jeeps (Don’t forget the Scramblers), are perfect for overlanding. They have all the capabilities off-road to get you through any terrain, and all the aftermarket support to build whatever you desire. Jeeps Trail Rated® designation means that it’s able to perform in a variety of challenging off-road conditions. The criteria include five performance categories: traction, ground clearance, maneuverability, articulation and water fording. Straight off the dealer’s lot you can also have many options that you’ll need while overlanding like a 240-Amp Alternator, Class IV Receiver Hitch, and Heavy-Duty Engine Cooling.

With the launch of the new Gladiator, you can have the best of all worlds; comfortable space inside for people and supplies, and ample cargo capacity in the bed. When it comes to the best overlanding configuration, the versatility of the Jeep can’t be beat. Until something else comes along, it will continue to be the undisputed champ.

Ford Finally Unleashes
The All-New 2021 Ford Bronco
(and Bronco Sport)

July 13, 2020 – The 2021 Ford Bronco has finally been revealed, coming in 2 models, the Ford Bronco and the Ford Bronco Sport (and a plethora of trims), which should be capable of conquering anything you put in front of them and their turbocharged Ecoboost engines. Will they have what it takes to take on the Jeep lineup? We’ll have to wait until we see these out in the wild, but from the looks of it, these Broncos should be able to hold their own!

Models

The all-new 2021 Ford Bronco looks to be the perfect ride for any off-road enthusiast, coming in a 2-door and 4-door Bronco and 4-door Bronco Sport model. You’ll be able to customize any of the Broncos your way, plus there are over 300 Ford accessories to truly make it your own.

Ford Bronco

The 2 and 4-door Broncos come with a large assortment of trims: the Base, Big Bend, Black Diamond, Outer Banks, Badlands, Wildtrak, and First Edition. The G.O.A.T mode is featured on the Black Diamond model, although unclear if the other trims have it.

Each starts with a 2.3L Ecoboost, or, according to the reveal video, can be upgraded to the 2.7 L Ecoboost engine that puts out 310 horsepower and 400 torque, but, depending on the model, can include a plethora of upgrades such as a twin-turbocharged version and 35 inch tires.

All Bronco models include best-in-class departure and breakover angles, ground clearance, and water fording. They also come with a 12-inch screen capable of downloading off-road apps that can keep track of your adventures.

Ford Bronco Sport

The Bronco Sport has a smaller range of trims: Base, Big Bend, Outer Banks, Badlands, and First Edition. Every model comes standard with 4×4 and G.O.A.T mode. A 1.5 L Ecoboost is available with 181 horsepower and 190 torque, or you can grab a 2.0 L Ecoboost with an increased 245 horsepower with 275 torque.

First Edition Models

Both the Bronco and Bronco Sport come with a First Edition Model, packing the best of every other model into one, and adding some extra goodies. Only 2,000 of the Bronco Sport First Edition will be produced, and 3,500 for the Bronco. Better grab ’em while you can!

G.O.A.T Mode

The Bronco comes standard with a terrain management system with up to 7 available G.O.A.T modes, also known as the Goes Over Any Type of Terrain mode. This feature, in theory, lets you tackle any terrain with just the click of a dial.

Was the hype for the Bronco well deserved? Will it live up to its heritage? We think the Bronco and Bronco Sport will give Jeep a run for their money, but the customers will be the true judge of that.

The 2021 Ford Bronco: What to Expect

The Blue Oval Boys Take On the Jeep Wrangler on Its Home Turf.
Do They Have the Right Formula to Unseat the King of Hardcore Off-Roading?

For the last 75 years, Jeep has been the brand to beat when it comes to street cred where the streets end. From the original civilian CJ-2A to today’s JL Wrangler, they’ve set the standard for no-compromises off-road performance straight off the showroom floor. Throughout that long, successful run they’ve faced many challengers; the Toyota Land Cruiser, the Chevy Blazer, the International Scout, and of course the Ford Bronco.

Though they all found their own fans, over the past few decades all those nameplates have fallen to the wayside, leaving only Jeep still selling vehicles that are so strongly biased in favor of all terrain performance over creature comforts and day to day practicality.

Now, Ford is poised to take a run at the Wrangler with the 2021 Bronco, which will be revealed in full to the world on Monday, June 13, 2020. This long-rumored return of a classic off-roader shows every sign of being specifically targeted at the same market segment as the JL, but can it really go toe-to-toe with Jeep’s flagship? Here’s what we know so far…

There Will Be Three Different Broncos

This is a mortal lock, based on what Ford has already shown us. The lineup will include a 2-door, a 4-door, and the Bronco Sport. But honestly, you can just ignore the Sport – it isn’t going to share anything but a nameplate with the “real” Bronco, and is going to be positioned as a competitor to softroaders like the Jeep Renegade, not the Wrangler. A pickup version to compete with the Jeep Gladiator is possible as a follow-on in subsequent model years, depending on how sales of that model (as well as the 2- and 4-door Bronco) pan out.

The Doors Will Be Removable (Without Tools)

US Patent 10,550,615 B2 granted to Ford in February describes a “door hinge assembly incorporating a latch to facilitate selective door removal.” Unlike the Wrangler, it seems that the Bronco’s doors will be easy to remove and replace without needing any tools. Ford has also filed multiple patents for things like doors with separate skins that leave a side-impact protection structure in place when removed, an airbag compatible with a detachable door, and even retractable safety rails between the front and rear pillars that are either constantly in place when the doors are off, or activate automatically in the event of a crash. Ford would undoubtedly prefer for you to keep the doors on your new Bronco while driving on the road in the name of greater occupant safety (and will also certainly put a lot of warnings about it in the manual, where nobody will read them), but based on the fact that the hinge latch patent has not just been applied for but granted, that seems very likely to be incorporated at launch.

The Bronco Will Have Body-On-Frame Construction and a Solid Rear Axle With IFS

The rumor is that the Bronco will be built on the same platform as the new mid-size Ranger pickup in the same facility, and that implies a separate traditional ladder frame instead of unibody construction. That’s good news for the aftermarket, as it will allow body lifts to easily accommodate larger-diameter tire fitments without re-engineering suspension components, plus many people will prefer that design’s inherent ruggedness for serious off-roading. The Bronco will also almost certainly have a coil-sprung solid rear axle with a multi-link suspension, but unlike the Wrangler, the front suspension is going to be independent. This is a wise move for Ford; IFS is the right answer for 95% of the questions asked of the Bronco both on and off road, and they don’t have to worry about a small but extremely vocal cadre of purists raising a ruckus like Jeep will when they inevitably have to switch the Wrangler over from a solid front axle. 

There Won’t Be a Traditional Transfer Case and 4-LO

This prediction is more speculative than some of the others, but images circulating on the interwebs point to a manual gearbox with a ratio labeled “C” on the shifter rather than a separate lever/button to engage low range. Ford has plenty of experience with 4WD systems, from full time to shift on the fly to manually-selectable, but this is a new twist. In addition to a ‘creeper gear’ you can also expect selectable locking for the front and center differentials, and either a limited slip or locker for the front as well. 

Want a V8? That May Be a Long Wait for a Train That Doesn’t Come

Way back in the early 1990s, Ford decided that the future of their powertrains lay in the direction of smaller-displacement engines with more sophisticated designs to replace their tried-and-true pushrod V8 design. While there’s much to be said about whether overhead cam V8 engines were the right idea for their trucks as well as their passenger cars, they have remained steadfastly devoted to the idea of high technology instead of raw cubic inches.

On the dyno, either engine choice for the new Bronco absolutely murders the old SBF V8…

For the Bronco, it’s very likely that the workhorse “base” engine will be the 2.3 liter EcoBoost 4-cylinder delivering something in the neighborhood of 270-280 horsepower and 310 pound-feet, biased toward low-end horsepower and torque. The optional upgrade is likely to follow the rest of Ford’s truck lineup with the twin-turbo 3.5 liter EcoBoost V6, producing around 375 horsepower and 470 pound-feet. 

On the dyno, either engine choice for the new Bronco absolutely murders the old SBF V8, but buyer acceptance is going to come down to whether the market they’re trying to court (both in terms of people with fond memories of Broncos past, and would-be Jeep Wrangler owners cross-shopping) believe that a turbocharged small-displacement engine is the right solution. Engine calibration is going to make or break the success for the new Bronco among shoppers who are looking for off road competence, and the benchmark Wrangler JL offers not only a standard naturally-aspirated 3.6 liter V6 gasoline engine rated at 285/260, but an optional 2.0 liter turbo inline four with 270 horsepower and 295 pound feet, plus a turbocharged 3.0 liter EcoDiesel that delivers an estimated 260 horsepower and 442 pound-feet.

Offering a 5.0 liter gasoline V8 based off the current Coyote architecture would seem to be an attractive option for Ford, should customers desire a NA engine over the EcoBoost 4 and 6 cylinder powerplants, but considering how the wind has been blowing with their Raptor models, a hopped-up EcoBoost V6 seems more likely as a future ‘premium’ engine upgrade.

It’s Ford’s chance to show the world what they can do when they’re turned loose to compete with the current heavyweight champ.

The Devil in the Details

While we feel we are on pretty solid ground with these predictions, Ford has kept most of the details for the new Bronco very close to the vest. You can be sure that every engineering, styling, and marketing decision for the new model was vetted against the Wrangler archetype, though – the company has a clear vision of what they’re trying to accomplish with 2021 Bronco, which is something pretty rare these days when focus groups, shareholder opinions, and low-risk strategies dominate new car and truck designs. That’s what’s really exciting about the upcoming reveal. It’s Ford’s chance to show the world what they can do when they’re turned loose to compete with the current heavyweight champ.

Top 10 Best Off-Road Vehicles

Not all four-wheel drive vehicles are created equal. Many are similar and are very capable in their own ways, especially depending on the type of off-road driving you do and terrain you prefer but some are just flat out better than others. Trying to classify all 4x4s into one list is like trying to herd cats, they’re all going in different directions and don’t care what you say. In an attempt to appease the off-road powers that be, I’ve put together a list of my top 10 best off-road vehicles as a starting point for a “do most everything” vehicle that factors in cost, aftermarket support, usability and a little bit of cool-factor.

10. Suzuki Samurai

The Suzuki Samurai, also known as the Suzuki Jimny outside the U.S. has been around a long time. First production started in 1970 but didn’t hit State-side until 1984 with the SJ413 model. They are light and inexpensive. Aftermarket support is mediocre but just about everything is available.

When it comes to what it is capable of, well, it’s ok in stock form. They have reliable leaf spring suspension design and straight axles front and rear, removable tops and no frills. They are very reminiscent of old flat fender Willys Jeeps with a few modern upgrades like a stereo and even A/C on some models.

9. Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser

The FJ40 gets on the list with sheer brute strength and vintage cool-factor. Toyota’s Land Cruiser line has had a well established grip on the off-road world for a long time and the FJ40 is a big reason for that. Available in soft top configuration as well as permanent hard top versions, they were bigger than Jeep CJs, had a nearly indestructible, though not powerful, inline-6 engine and were the go-to vehicle for people who wanted a vehicle like a Jeep, but didn’t want a Jeep.

The two-door short wheelbase rig used to have strong aftermarket support but these rigs are getting older and harder to find. As a respected vintage vehicle, purchase prices are climbing. Another rig with leaf springs and straight axles front and rear, a stock FJ40 can out-wheel 90-percent of new 4×4 vehicles sold today.

8. Toyota 4Runner

4Runners are also a favorite for the anti-Jeep crowd. There have been many iterations of the 4Runner over the years, the earliest coming with leaf springs and straight axles, then to independent front suspension with a live-axle rear that uses coils to support the body. Overall, the 4Runner has improved with each new body style in some form, though each generation gets more creature comforts and more low-hanging body panels. With the Overland theme growing, 4Runners still have a tight hold in the off-road world.

Aftermarket support varies wildly from generation to generation, but each have their niche. Bumpers, rock rails, skid plates and so much more are available. Toyota has had a long history of reliable motors, from the 22r, the 3.4L V6 to even their V8s, which are available in some of the late model 4Runners.

7. Toyota FJ Cruiser

Toyota’s FJ Cruiser shares a lot with the same year range 4Runner, from 2006 to 2014. The two-door rig added a specific vibe to what is essentially the same platform and on a shorter wheelbase. Aftermarket support skyrocketed when the FJ Cruiser hit the dealer lots. Since then, the support has dialed back but is still available.

The IFS front and straight axle/coil rear is a solid suspension that is good for most off-roading. The suspension is a little more complicated to modify and doesn’t articulate the same as a straight axle, but higher speed activities are generally more enjoyable because of it.

6. Jeep Cherokee XJ

When the Jeep Cherokee XJ hit the market in 1984, it started a chain of events that leads directly to where the Jeep brand is today with the 4-door Wranglers. Available in both two door and four door, buyers had a good option for a compact SUV that didn’t break the bank and could go anywhere.

The XJ had an eighteen model year run on the same platform, with a body and trim refresh in 1997. Loaded with the classic Jeep 4.0L inline six power plant, available in two or four door models with straight axles, it has been hard to beat. Aftermarket support is high and with more than a million XJs on the road, vehicle prices are nominal.

5. Jeep Wrangler TJ/LJ

When most people picture a Jeep, they have an image of a Wrangler TJ in their head. Short wheel base, removable hard or soft top, aftermarket support coming from every angle for anything you could possibly imagine. The TJ was the last Jeep to run the 4.0L I-6 and never had a ton of frills. Rubicon models step the game up significantly, along with the price tag.

Next on our top 10 best off-road vehicles list is the Jeep Wrangler JL. The Wrangler LJ Unlimited is generally considered the holy grail of off-road vehicles, if you can get your hands on one for a decent price. The longer version of the TJ could use most of the same parts but had a wheelbase that was better suited for wheeling in just about any terrain. Prices of both the TJ and LJ have not dropped as fast as many other off-roaders because the demand for them is still high.

4. Toyota Tacoma

Toyota trucks have their own legacy aside from the rest of the brand. Strong, reliable trucks that can be used for nearly any task. Just like the other Toyota’s on this list, they have great motors and a well rounded suspension.

Aftermarket support depends on which generation but as a popular rig for Overlanding, the parts lists is continually growing. While not the best rock crawlers, Tacomas find an easy home blasting down fire roads and sand as much as it does on the highway.

3. RAM 2500 Power Wagon

The Ram 2500 Power Wagon is the Rubicon of Ram trucks. Lockers front and rear, strong and durable coil suspension front and leaf or coil rear depending on year, plus a HEMI V8 powerplant. Power Wagons are beasts that can tackle anything, as long as there’s enough room for the wide solid axles and body.

The Power Wagon comes with a winch direct off the showroom floor, along with its hefty price tag. A truck like this makes a great tow rig that converts to a recovery rig for smaller brethren.

2. Ford Raptor

By far, the Ford Raptor wins the cake when it comes to high speed action capability direct from a manufacturer. Long travel King Shock coil overs, 35-inch tires and a rear locker make it a no-brainer if you want to cover lots of distance quickly.

Price tag is usually the only drawback to Raptors, though first-generation models are starting to dip in price. As a vehicle that wasn’t specifically designed to handle rock crawling, with the help of their long wheelbase and traction controls, they can handle more than you might expect. Every other aspect of off-road is no sweat for a Raptor. The aftermarket loves the Raptor and has a massive amount of accessories and upgrades available.

1. Jeep Wrangler JK

The Wrangler JK revitalized the Jeep brand immensely when it hit dealer lots in 2007. The four door Jeep brought attention from a much wider spread of demographics than any other Jeep, or vehicle for that matter, before it. Soccer moms (and Dad’s like me), mall crawlers, hardcore rock crawlers, overlanders, desert racers and more all have interest in JKs. They a bigger than previous Wranglers, suspensions are much more effective, have huge wheel well openings for larger tires and can balance as a daily driver/weekend warrior better than most.

Last but not least on our top 10 best off-road vehicles is the Jeep JK. The JK ran out of production in 2018 and the JL Wrangler took it’s place. The JL is extremely similar to the JK and in a few years when there are more used ones for sale, will likely make a list like this but for now, they are just too expensive. Early JKs from 2007 to 2011 used a 3.8L engine that Chrysler used in a minivan that wasn’t the greatest. The 3.6L that came out in 2012, along with a 5-speed automatic transmission was a huge improvement. The interior was refresh but otherwise, the Jeep stayed mostly the same. Over a million are on the road and the aftermarket support is the largest of ANY other vehicle in the world.

A Badass Jeep JK Build for 10K? Here’s Your Guide!

There are thousands, maybe even millions of different ways to build and accessorize the Jeep JK Wrangler into a great JK build. There are so many aftermarket parts available, where do you start? We decided to toss our thoughts out there with a hypothetical build using a bone stock JK and a $10,000 budget. That certainly seems like it should be enough money, though most of us build our rigs over time and not all at once.

Here’s we’ll cover the basics and our picks for this Jeep JK build, keeping the whole budget in mind. For consistency, all prices are based on advertised retail price from Northridge4x4.com. We are not including tax or installation as both will vary based on where you are and your level of do-it-yourself ability and necessity.

Lift It

First up, let’s get the 10k-JK build elevated. JK Wranglers have large wheel wells openings from the factory. They can fit a much larger tire than previous model Jeeps without as much lift. Our goal is to get the Jeep into a good height for clearance while improving function. For this, we’d go with the Teraflex 3-inch Lift Suspension System w/ 4 Sport Flexarms & Track Bar.

The kit includes the necessary lift coils and miscellaneous brackets but also goes a step further than the basics by providing new front lower and rear upper control arms, a front adjustable track bar and a rear track bar relocation bracket. The track bar components and new Preset Sport Flexarms will keep your vehicle in proper alignment. The Flexarms also provide better articulation and more strength.

Price: $1400.96

Shock It

Shocks are no place to scrimp. Having good shocks is a key factor in a long-lasting rig that doesn’t beat your body up on every mile and every bump. With the immense popularity of JK Wranglers, FOX Shocks made life easy by having direct bolt-in options for different lift heights.

The FOX Performance Series 2.0 Reservoir smooth body shocks brings all of the fancy tech FOX has developed over the years into a simple to install package. Built with lots of aluminum to resist corrosion and utilizing race-proven piston and valving designs, you can’t go wrong.

Price: $269.95 each – $1079.80 for 4

Flare It

Adding new high clearance fender flares is a solid Go-To when building this Jeep JK, especially when working on a specific budget. The extra clearance allows for a larger tire without as much lift by removing unnecessary OEM plastic bits and low hanging edges.

MCE Fenders produces OE width flare with 2-inches of extra tire clearance. With only a set of these flares, a JK Wrangler can run a 35-inch tire on stock suspension. Their single wall construction is so durable, MCE offers a “No Fine Print” Lifetime Warranty. Kit includes DOT approved LED side marker lights and retains the OE inner fender liner.

Price: $399.99

Wheel and Tire It

With the JK build higher, we can now stuff some new sneakers on it. The 3-inch lift technically is meant for a 35-inch tall tire but because we have chosen high clearance flares for our build, we can step up to 37s.

Method Race Wheels produce a strong and reliable wheel for years of off-road use. There is a wide range of styles available, though there is a smooth blend of classic and modern with the Street Series 309 in Matte Black.

Built from A356 aluminum and T6 heat treated, the 17×8.5 309 has a 2500+lb load rating and also features the Street-Loc V.1 lip with undercut that simulates a true beadlock wheel.

Price: $257.13 each – $1,285.65 for 5

Tires just might be one of the most important choices you make during your build. A reliable Jeep JK build needs reliable tires. The Milestar Patagonia M/T 37X12.50R17 provides superior traction in harsh terrains while giving you excellent road manners.

The solid mud terrain tire has aggressive edges for a great bit, high-void tread design for self-cleaning and uses a 3-ply sidewall for additional protection against damage.

Price: $373.50 each – $1867.50 for 5

Spare It

Anything can happen, even with careful driving and strong tires. It is always a good idea to bring along a matching height spare tire. We’ve included the costs of the spare wheel and tire above but now you need a place to mount it. The stock JK tailgate, though stronger than it’s predecessors, isn’t up to the task of supporting the weight of a larger wheel and tire combo. Not to mention the clearance issues.

Installing a Teraflex Alpha HD Hinged Spare Tire Carrier & Alpha HD Adjustable Spare Tire Mounting Kit solves the issue. The Hinged Spare Tire Carrier replaces the OE tailgate hinges and reinforces the sheetmetal of the tailgate, making it robust enough to easily support a 37-inch tire.

Combines with the HD Adjustable Spare Tire Mounting Kit, the system can accommodate many different wheel backspaces and tire widths.

Price: $700.98

Protect It

We’ve covered the height, flex and traction, now on to protecting the Jeep JK build when out in the dirt. There are a staggering number of bumpers available on the market for the JK. Many of them are good solid pieces and have varying different benefits.

Bumpers

Body Armor 4×4 has been building quality bumpers for years. Using 3/16-inch and ¼-inch thick steel plate, their Mid-Stubby Front Bumper accommodates a winch like the Warn VR EVO 10-S with synthetic rope and has multiple light tabs for future use. A winch is just good off-roading practice and Warn is the winch leader when it comes to build quality and innovation. Body Armor 4×4’s Rear Bumper Base provides a solid shackle attachment point, clears the OE-hitch and looks much better than the factory bumper.

Front Price: $441.99

Rear Price: $331.99

Skid Plates

This JK build is a big beast of a Jeep, especially on 37s but there are still plenty of obstacles that may want to give the underbelly a few love taps. For that, there skid plates from Rock Hard 4×4 for the Transfer Case and Fuel Tank. Both are made from 3/16-inch thick steel and are 100 percent bolt on.

Transfer Case Skid Plate Price: $259.95

Fuel Tank Skid Plate Price: $409.95

Rock Rails

When protecting your Jeep JK build from the perils of off-road trails, make sure to pay attention to the rocker panels. The JK Unlimited is long and has a large gap between the tires that likes to get munched by rocks. Bolting on a set of Rock Hard 4×4 Patriot Series “Boat Side” Rock Sliders will eliminate the concern.

The strongest rock slider Rock Hard 4×4 makes is built from durable 3/16-inch steel and has a flat surface designed to glide off obstacles. The boat sides include openings for Hi-Lift Jack use and has an optional diamond tread pattern top for better traction when used as a step.

Price: $899.95

Light It Up

The last bit we’ll squeeze into our $10k-JK is lighting. When travelling and camping, you are bound to be out at night and having sufficient lighting is far safer than not. Genesis Off-Road produces a Double Dually Light Bracket for the hinge area of the A-pillar that accepts two lights per side. Rigid Industries recently released the 4-inch 360-Series LED Diffused Fog Lights that are perfect for lighting up the trail, road or camp.

Bracket Price: $69.00

Lights Price: $349.99 a pair – $699.98 total

Tally It

The tally comes out to $10,592.68. It really adds up that fast. There are far more accessories and upgrades that can be done that what is shared here, not to mention all the different options for what we have covered. Now go build your Jeep JK, make it how you want it!

Thinking of Overlanding in Your Crossover? Read This First!

Overlanding isn’t anything new. Societies have been doing it for more years than the automobile has been around. Covered wagons explored and traversed across North America and many of those same paths turned into highways and some even became off-road trails we know and love to this day. All over the world, people have been loading up vehicles and camping out of them for exploration, adventure, and necessity.

To overland, it doesn’t really matter what kind of vehicle you are in. The most common are Jeeps and Toyotas, sure, but they don’t own it. Compact Utility Vehicles (CUVs), especially all-wheel drive models, are well adept at handling the same terrain in most cases. They wont be crawling over giant boulders but they will certainly handle a lot of dirt roads.

CUVs are also known as Crossover vehicles. They bridge the gap between a car/station wagon and a larger SUV. Subarus, small Jeeps, and small Toyotas are among just a few of the many on the market. Loads of auto manufacturers build them.

Is a CUV Good for Overlanding?

The point of overlanding is to get to remote areas off the beaten path and bring your stuff with you. The vehicle is meant to be self-supported and self-reliant. The requirements are extremely vague but at minimum, it needs to carry everything you need for your trip.

Just about any vehicle will do, though some are better suited than others. Cargo space with your gear, a place to sleep, and the ability to get where you’re going. Can your vehicle do that?

Overlanding Gear Checklist

• Vehicle equipped to handle terrain expected on adventure
• Water – Amount depends on length of trip and number of people in the vehicle
• Food – Also depends on trip length, number of people. Coolers and Stoves may be required
• Place to sleep – Can you lay down the seats and sleep in your vehicle? Or do you have a roof top tent?
• Clothing
• Tools for vehicle repairs
• Safety Equipment – This varies based on terrain, the vehicle and how long you will go but there are mainstays that you should always have such as (but not limited to) a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher, spare tire with tools to change one, and communications equipment.
• Spare Fuel

Traction

A CUV that has all-wheel drive can generally get you to the remote places you’ll want to go to. Some vehicles even have aftermarket support to boost ground clearance, lengthen wheel travel, and improve the ride along the way.

Many newer CUVs with 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive have improved traction control devices already built in and ready to go like the Jeep Compass with the Selec-Terrain Traction Management System. Through controls on the dash, the driver can select from auto, snow, sand, mud or rock mode to best suit the terrain.

Getting traction is easily one of the most important aspects to think of when setting up a vehicle for overlanding. The vehicle will be travelling lots of miles over varied terrain and needs to be able to handle it all. Many tire manufacturers have all terrain tire options in sizes suitable for CUVs. Some even offer more aggressive mud terrain tires in the same sizes.

Partial List of Suitable CUVs for Overlanding

Here is a short list of newer CUVs and Crossovers that can be good for Overlanding. There a far more vehicles available that could be used so if you don’t see your vehicle here, don’t fret.

• Ford Escape
• Honda Pilot
• Honda Element
• Hyundai Kona
• Hyundai Tucson
• Jeep Compass
• Jeep Cherokee
• Toyota RAV4
• Nissan Rogue
• Subaru Outback
• Subaru Forrester
• Subaru Crosstrek
• Toyota RAV4
• And so many more…

If you are in the market to get a CUV to use as an Overlanding rig, spend some time looking at the aftermarket products available for different models. What you find there combined with the type of off-road travelling you want or expect to do may help guide your decision. Looks for small suspension lifts, tow hooks, cargo racks, skid plates and other items you may usually only think of for Wranglers or Tacomas. It is a niche market but enthusiasts-turned-business owners target many small vehicles you may not expect.

For those that already have an all-wheel drive CUV, load up your gear and get out there! There is no need to have a massively built rig with huge tires to go have fun, enjoy the great outdoors and explore.

To see if you and your vehicle is ready for an adventure, plan one! Put together a plan with specifics including where you will go, the path to get there, the duration of the trip and the time of year you will go.

Go through the process and think along the way, can my CUV do that? Do I have enough space? Do I have the right gear? If not, you either need to modify your vehicle, or change your plan.

Get involved in online forums or local clubs to talk to others with your same vehicle or similar vehicles and find out what experiences they have had. Listen for things they wished they had known before their first adventure.

Then, all you need to do is get out there and enjoy!

What’s the Big Difference Between a Jeep JK and a Jeep JL?

The Jeep scene changed forever when the JK Wrangler Unlimited hit the automotive market in 2007. Jeep was no stranger to capable 4-door off-road vehicles, but the new Wrangler was different. Taking the iconic powers of the previous generations of Wranglers and CJs and transforming them into a more family and daily-life friendly vehicle made a huge impact.

JKs popped up everywhere. Jeep couldn’t make enough of them. The suspension was improved, and extra creature comforts were added. The term “mall-crawling” became a thing because the popularity of the vehicle reached far more demographics of buyers. Loads of people who wouldn’t normally buy a Wrangler were now all over them. It is very possible that the JK Wrangler saved the Jeep brand from total collapse.

After a twelve-model year run, ending with a 2018 model, the JK Wrangler was the most produced and sold Jeep of all time. The vehicle saw various upgrades through its stretch but by-and-large was still the same vehicle. With such a popular vehicle, how could the Jeep engineers and designers top it for the next version of the vehicle?

The JL Wrangler hit showroom floors for the 2018 model year, right alongside the final days of the JK. For non-Jeep folks, the JL Wrangler Unlimited looks just like a JK on a passing glance or with blurry eyes.

What’s the Difference?

The two models look so similar, it is easy to question what the difference between them really is. We are going to explore those differences here.

Exterior: The JK is a classic body-on-frame construction. All the sheetmetal is steel, with lots of classic CJ cues. The JL, however, brought in weight saving aluminum for the doors and various other non-structural pieces. Sheetmetal changes were mostly cosmetic. Turn signals moved to fender flare from grille, pull handles instead of push buttons, rear license plate moved from body to bumper, trivial things that don’t have much impact of the versatility of the vehicle alone but when added up, make a difference.

Four door models of the JL were lengthened by four inches, two inches for two door models. Both stayed the same body width. The longer body allows for more interior space and better passenger comfort.

Another beneficial change to the new model is the fender flares and wheel wells. A larger than factory tire is easier to fit on a JL than a JK, especially for Rubicon (and some Sahara) models. Rubicons get special higher clearance fender flares that offer 2-inches more tire clearance.

Watch Brittany Williams of LiteBrite on Youtube sharing what she likes about the Jeep JL Wrangler:

The doors and tops are removable on both models, minus one JL top option, the Sky One-Touch top. Later JK models had an option of a soft top, standard black hard top or a color matched top. JLs continued the same trend and added the Sky One-Touch top that has removable rear quarter windows and a push-to-retract fabric center in the roof.

JK Wranglers have fold down windshield components but require disassembling the exterior of the A-pillar (6 bolts on each side) along with disconnecting roll bar attachment points near the windshield visors. The JL Wrangler improved on this design by extending the roll bar to have A-pillar tubes. With this design, Jeep was able to no longer require the windshield to be load bearing in the event of a rollover and could make folding the windshield down much easier. Remove the windshield wipers and 4 bolts on the interior and it is down.

Interior: The passenger compartment was drastically redesigned and modernized. The gauge cluster has a much more digital aspect to it with a center screen that has settings to keep tabs on all sorts of different levels, functions and features. The stereo was shifted to a true infotainment system on most models, now with access to other controls and features that were inaccessible on JKs.

The seats, door panels and other miscellaneous bits inside were changed and small improvements were made. The rear cargo area now has an optional Trail Rail Cargo Management system. The system allows for easier load strapping along with options to add other mounts and racks.

Powertrain: In 2012, the JK was upgraded to the Pentastar 3.6L V6 engine. Though smaller in displacement than its predecessor, the 3.6L is more efficient and has a strong horsepower and torque output. The same engine continued to the JL with minor changes that are mostly in the computer programming. A Stop/Start system was added to help increase fuel efficiency.

Later in the first model year, the JL Wrangler could be purchased with a 2.0L T4 Hurricane turbocharged inline 4-cylinder engine. The JK Wrangler had only the one engine choice each year of its run. Diesel powered JLs are said to be available for the 2020 model year and talks of a Hybrid model have been buzzing around for some time.

Drivetrain: The JL Wrangler gets to benefit from the Torqueflite 850RE, an 8-speed automatic transmission. Previously, the JK used a 4-speed automatic for early models, then a 5-speed from 2012 on. The new transmission smoothed the drive considerably, allowing the computer to not hunt for the correct gear as much. The transfer case stayed the same on both Sport and Rubicon models.

Dana axle assemblies are used in both generations. The JK was much wider than the TJ Wrangler that preceded it, instead of widening the existing designs, Dana created new units with larger ring and pinion gear sets, axle shafts, axle tubes and more. They again upgraded the assemblies for the JL. Slightly wider, slightly bigger, and overall stronger.

The wheelbase was stretched approximately 1.5-inches on 2-doors and 2.5-inches on 4-doors.

Suspension: Both the JK and JL are set up with solid axles and a 4-link plus track-bar suspension design front and rear. The lengths of the control arms stretched minor amounts and some other small tweaks were made to mounting ends for smoother movement through the range of travel. The JK Wrangler had already received much longer and stronger control arms over the TJ Wrangler. For the most part, the suspension was left alone.

In the End, Which Is Better?

At the end of it all, which is the better vehicle? That all depends on what you want out of it. At this point, JK Wranglers are starting to drop in price. They are highly capable vehicles that have a long timeline for bugs being worked out by both the factory and the aftermarket enthusiasts. JL Wranglers are slightly bigger, more creature comforts, better efficiency along with a higher price tag.

Why Is Overlanding So Popular Now?

Overlanding is not new. Travelling cross country with a vehicle is as old as the wheel. When you look at the some of the first overlanders, they travelled in wagons, or rode horses. Nomadic tribes, sheep herders, and the pioneers of the old west all lived on the move, and had to carry their entire belongings wherever they went. That’s what overlanding means to many people; being able to go anywhere while being self-contained. When the automobile showed up in the 1900’s, overlanding followed. The country still had large swaths of open, undeveloped land with plenty to explore. People had leisure time, and transportation.

American’s fascination with offroad travel has never waned. The same can be said for exploring the wilderness. One reason why overlanding has become so popular is because it’s a diverse crowd. You can find people overlanding in everything from a million dollar, purposely built big rig to an all-wheel drive car with a roof top tent. Can you still overland in a car? Sure, but one prerequisite of overlanding in many people’s minds is the ability to go off road. Not just down a graded dirt road, but beyond man-made roadways and off onto challenging trails. Whether you can accomplish that in a car is up to you, but I’ve seen it done. In fact, it’s typical in Mexico to be miles outside of any town, or so you think, and see a local chug past in an old car with bald tires through the same silt bed that just trapped your fancy 4 wheel drive for the last hour with hardly a care. The fact is, most offroad race vehicles are 2 wheel drive. The venerable VW beetle is an example of a very basic, 2 wheel drive vehicle that is capable of going just about anywhere offroad. Don’t expect it to carry a bunch of gear though, but that leads us to the next topic; comfort.

Overlanding has many levels of comfort. It all depends on your budget, and how far off the beaten path you care to venture. Some of the most extreme overlanding vehicles have everything a typical home would contain; a kitchen, bath, bedroom, even laundry facilities or a garage. The finishes inside will reflect the cost of the build. When money is no object, you get marble backsplashes, microwave ovens, and big screen TV’s. The more luxuries you bring, the more payload your vehicle needs to carry. At some point, your offroad capabilities become compromised. That’s why many prefer to trade convenience, and comfort for capability. True overlanding in my opinion has to do with getting off the beaten path. With that said, the terrain you will be exploring also has a lot to do with the size rig you can use. In deserts, and dunes, the bigger rigs are fine. If you’re navigating through thick forests, or tight mountain trails, a smaller rig is the only way to get around. There is no single vehicle that will serve every purpose.

Overlanders for the most part fit into two categories; those who do it for recreation, and others who live full time on the road. Many people say that overlanding is just a fancy word for camping. That might be true, but those who live full time on the road will argue that it takes a lot of commitment to cut ties with a conventional existence. Their choice of vehicle, and what to outfit it with, will be different than that of someone who is just out for fun for a couple of days. You can rough it for a while car camping, but as soon as you are forced to take shelter for a couple days due to weather, the contrast between full time, and for fun becomes clear. There is no going home to get out of the elements when you live on the road. You can always pack up and leave, but your choices are more limited. Staying warm or cool, dry, and fed can be challenging at times.

…it’s typical in Mexico to be miles outside of any town, or so you think, and see a local chug past in an old car with bald tires through the same silt bed that just trapped your fancy 4 wheel drive for the last hour…

So what has created all the renewed interest in overlanding today? You’ll probably be surprised by the answer, but it happens to be technology. While that may seem like some type of an oxymoron, it’s actually the existence of current technology that makes getting away from it all easier than ever. The ability for primitive man to use fire was revolutionary to survival. Today, it’s the satellite, the cell phone, and solar panels. Current explorers may not even own a flannel shirt. They have technologically advanced clothing that keeps them warm, or wicks the sweat from their bodies to keep them cool. Satellites give you your current location, and detailed information about what lies on the other side of that ridge ahead of you. They also allow you to make phone calls from just about anywhere. Even without a satellite phone, cell phone communication continues to expand. Proposals have been put forth to go completely nationwide by using the commercial airplanes flying overhead as mobile hotspots. Being able to connect to the internet from almost anywhere has led to people working remotely, myself included. This frees them up to travel full time. Many full time travelers make their living by sharing videos of their adventures on the internet; technology at work again.

Watch Brad from Trail Recon catalog one of many overland adventures in his Jeep JK Wrangler:

The one thing that most of us just can’t live without is power to run our electronic devices. You can’t make videos, call anyone, or check on your current location without electricity. The accessibility of inexpensive, and reliable solar power has allowed people to roam freely, and to live off the grid. 12 volt appliances, low draw LED lighting, compact electronic devices, and the continuing advances in vehicle technology have made it possible for us to get out to remote locations while being safe and comfortable.

As more people head out to remote locations, they will no longer be remote. You can see this phenomena happening right now. As with any trend, I predict that some people will want to go against the crowd. We may see a return to actually roughing it outdoors. The purists will travel in a vintage truck with a tent, and wear flannel shirts around the camp fire again.

What Is Overlanding?

One of the fastest growing trends over the last several years has been the Overlanding craze. The off-road community has always been segregated by brand loyalty, and region. You have the Jeep crowd, who doesn’t hang out with the Toyota owners, who shake their heads at the full size truck owners, who think Jeeps are impractical and silly. In places like Florida, which are mostly flat, and covered by swamps, tall trucks are all the rage. On the tight, steep trails found in the mountainous areas of the country, every inch of lift comes with a penalty due to a higher center of gravity. The dune enthusiasts are another subset of off-road, as are the prerunners. Most prerunners are 2 wheel drive, so they have to keep moving fast or risk getting stuck. That’s ridiculous to the Jeep crowd who love to crawl along with their multiple transfer cases because one transfer case just isn’t slow enough.

They are all separate groups who exist in their own niche. Along comes overlanding which can include all those groups. Overlanding can be done in a camper shell, or a 300,000 dollar rolling condo with satellite, a garage, and a marble backsplash in the kitchen. Overlanding is not camping in campgrounds; it’s boondocking, but with the emphasis on traveling. The one thing that all overlanders share is the ability to travel off the beaten path while being self-sustained. The only difference is how comfortable you want to be. 

Choosing your Overlanding Vehicle 

Do you want creature comforts, or off-road ability? If you are overlanding in a region that has very primitive roads, a smaller vehicle makes a lot of sense. If you go this route, you will have to travel light. Lots of thought will go into the gear you choose to bring. Will you be able to resupply on the road? If you are planning a long trip with limited access to supplies, a larger vehicle makes more sense. Eventually though, you will have the same issue with storage space, and weight capacity, regardless of the vehicle you choose. The bigger you go, the more you have to think about mobility, and fuel mileage.

You have to consider the needs of the vehicle, as well as the inhabitants. You should have spare parts, tools, vital fluids, and the ability to perform repairs in primitive conditions. Spares are the bare minimum. Having the added insurance of compressed air, onboard welders, or a bicycle, moped or motorcycle as a backup is not uncommon. Some people would rather invest in a satellite phone than to carry spares, and learn how to fix things. Whichever plan you devise, being prepared will be the difference between a survival situation, and an inconvenience when you run into trouble.

Basic Needs

Venturing into the wilderness should not be taken lightly. Your first priority should be basic human needs. You need proper clothing, shelter, food, and water in order to survive. If you are traveling in an area that has abundant water, you can get away with carrying less onboard, as long as you have a way to purify it for drinking. There are many types of filters available that run the range from straws, all the way up to multi-stage reverse osmosis systems that can be incorporated into your rig. In drier conditions, you will have to bring your own. You will need water for your body, and for your vehicle. Water is the most important thing for survival. 

Can you afford to go without cooked food for a couple days if the weather turns awful?

Food will run the spectrum depending on your cooking equipment and whether you have refrigeration. You can survive on dry goods, but having great food to eat makes any excursion much more enjoyable. Unless you have tons of power available for an induction cooktop, most cooking will be done on a camp fire, or on some type of stove with an open flame. Another option is a solar oven. Solar ovens can be broken down for transport, and use the power of the sun to cook your food so no fuel is used. All you need is direct sunlight. 

There are many 12 volt compressor refrigerators on the market that use minimal power, and will keep perishable foods cold. They can be powered with a generator, or solar power which is very popular. Ice chests are ok for a couple days, but anyone will tell you, they are terrible to deal with in the long run. Soggy food from melting ice is unappetizing to say the least, and usually ends up in the trash. Many travelers have an outdoor kitchen. This is preferable to keep the mess, and smells out of your sleeping quarters, but only in perfect weather. Can you afford to go without cooked food for a couple days if the weather turns awful? Rain or snow can be mitigated by a canopy, but if you add wind to the mix, it might make cooking outside impossible. 

That brings us to the matter of clothing, and shelter. People die from exposure to the elements. You need to maintain your body’s temperature; too hot, too cold or being wet, can have dire results. Roof top tents are very popular because they collapse for travel, and get you up off the ground, but it’s still a tent. Pouring rain, or gale force winds get old really quick when you are sleeping in a tent. Having a dry, protected shelter in inclement weather is important. Having extra space to relax, change clothes, do some chores or get some work done is added luxury. 

A comfortable overlanding vehicle should provide all of these essentials. It should have off-road capabilities, ample storage, power, a kitchen, and a bathroom. It should be able to pack everything in, and get it back out again without drama. There is an ongoing debate whether overlanding is just glorified camping. It does share many similarities, but I think it differs once you build in the systems and components that are necessary for long term, unassisted travel. You can throw an ice chest into the bed of your truck, and spend a few nights in the wilderness, but if you are boondocking for 3 weeks in the desert, you need a little more. Once you have a dedicated, live aboard vehicle, you have gone beyond camping, and into the overlanding zone.  

SEMA 2019: Impressions

SEMA 2019 is here and bringing the all-around automotive goodness we’ve come to expect. We don’t know if you’ve heard, but there were a lot of new A90 Toyota Supras out there. Despite this year being called “The Year of the Supra”, the show had an abundance of other fantastic builds that deserve some love.

Here are some of our Supra-free highlights from SEMA 2019.

IMPORTS

This Datsun 240z has a completely carbon fiber body and is powered by 5.3L Chevy V8 out of a Silverado. This truck powered beast is owned and raced by Shawn Bassett and is built to tear up the track at any time attack.

MUSCLE

Check out this ’72 Riviera by Gas Monkey Garage of Discovery Channel’s Fast n’ Loud. It’s powered by a Katech LT4 and boosted with a Magnuson Supercharger.

Koni showed off their heritage with a Shelby GT350 at their booth sporting the shocks they developed for the original release in the 60s.

OFFROAD

Milestar Tires displayed their newly released UTV/Side-by-Side specific Patagonia SXT tire.

CLASSICS/HOT RODS

The AMC Gremlin was once classified as one of the ugliest cars ever made, but that title definitely doesn’t fit this one. This custom Gremlin hot rod is built by Jacob Griffin and proves that these ugly little cars do have some potential.

EURO/EXOTICS

Eibach collaborated with Hot Wheels to present this clean BMW 2002 along with its miniature version at their booth. Some lucky attendants even got to take home their own Eibach x Hotwheels collectible 2002.

The Top 5 Underrated Off-Road Mods and Why You Need Them

We’ve all seen the mall-crawler trucks and SUV’s roaming the streets. Built with a credit card and a catalog, they look impressive to the average person, but to an enthusiast, they are quickly scoffed at. Huge tires on stock axles, and enough LED’s to light up a runway. They are bedazzled with spare gas cans, or a shiny new shovel that’s never been used. To be honest, many are nice looking, but most would fail miserably when put to the task. The ironic thing is that their owners have spent thousands of dollars on the look, without gaining performance.

You want rubber on the rocks and mud, not your fancy rims.

In the dirt where it counts, most factory stock vehicles are fairly capable, but they are designed as a compromise. Occupant comfort and fuel economy are major factors to designers. Since most vehicles spend a majority of time on the pavement, hard core off-road parts don’t take precedence. Thankfully, there are modifications you can make that will enhance your off-road capabilities without going overboard. We’ll share our top 5 off-road mod picks.

Number one has to be tires. Think about it. Your tires are the only contact you have with the terrain; they need to provide traction for acceleration, braking, and steering. The huge wheels with low-profile tires might look cool, but they don’t provide the benefits of a taller side wall. You want rubber on the rocks and mud, not your fancy rims. The number one factor determining the diameter of your wheels will be clearance around your brake components. On most trucks, a 16 or 17 inch wheel is plenty. Bigger, and wider tires will affect several factors. You will gain traction, stability, and ground clearance, but they will compromise your fuel mileage, turning radius, and your gearing. If you go too big, your truck will be a dog, and no fun to drive. You also need to have the clearance to fit that big rubber. That brings us to number two.

Whether you lift your truck or not is a major decision. If you are driving through swamps in Florida, or rock crawling out west, you might need some lift. In the mountains it may be the last thing you need to do. The swampers need as much lift as possible, while rock crawlers will want articulation as opposed to just height. If you regularly wheel in the mountains on tight, off-camber trails, a leveling kit or 2 inch lift is probably the most you want. Keep in mind, the taller you go, the more sacrifices you will be making. You will be punching a much bigger hole through the air, and you must be willing to forgo car washes, parking structures, drive thru’s or even your own garage.

This is where many people go off the rails. Your lighting has to be functional.

Number one, and number two will get you to more places off-road. Number three will get you back. 99 percent of the time factory trucks will not have any decent anchor points on the vehicle. The farther off the beaten path you travel, the greater the chance you have of getting stuck. Even if you have a winch, you will need anchor points on your truck. You do have a snatch strap, don’t you? Having a trailer hitch on the back is a great mod because it does double duty. You can tow, you can carry stuff with it, and it’s a solid anchor point. Up front you need to add something to pull on. A lot of trucks have hooks on the front, but many times they are for lashing the truck down during shipping, not for pulling out a stuck rig. They are known to fail. Anything you add will need to tie directly into the frame.

Number 4 is lighting. This is where many people go off the rails. Your lighting has to be functional. Many people emulate their Trophy Truck racing heroes and install incredibly bright (and expensive), off-road lighting. The technology available today is nothing short of amazing, but some of it is way overkill. Trophy Truck drivers need to illuminate the trail ahead at speeds in excess of 100 miles per hour. Will you be traveling that fast? You need to realize huge lights that send a beam out for 2 miles will limit when and where you can use them. No way can they be used on the street. Even off-road you will be shutting them off for the safety of others. Sometimes all you need are better bulbs in your factory head lights. Most of you will add wide angle lights, strategically placed on your vehicle. It’s good to have some bright lights shining ahead, but you also need light to the sides, and behind you. Backing up when your windows, and mirrors are covered in mud is not fun, especially when it’s completely dark behind you. You’ll want at least one flood light out back that lights up the ground, and the surroundings. The rear light can also be used when loading gear, or hitching up a trailer. Don’t forget the sides of your truck either.

When traveling down a trail at night, your headlights and/or driving lights are shining ahead. They don’t shed much light to the side of the truck. If you are searching for a side road to take, you will never see it. Known by many as “ditch lights” they can be mounted to the front bumper, on a light bar, or the windshield pillar. Ditch lights can also be used to light up your campsite, or when offering assistance on the trail. A set of rock lights will illuminate the undercarriage, and something portable is always useful. Whatever you decide to run as far as lighting goes, make sure you do a proper wiring job so they remain reliable. There are several products on the market that supply a separate dedicated power source for additional electronic components. They work well when adding lights.

There are countless off-road mods that will enhance your vehicle like extending your axle breather tubes to keep water out of your differentials, a more powerful alternator, additional fluid coolers, skid plates, or running an extra battery as a back-up, but the number 5 most underrated mod would have to be organization. You will need to carry spare parts, tools, food, drinks, clothing, bedding, the list is long. Having an organized truck with good storage makes every task easier. It also makes your truck safer. Loose gear in your truck can shift the weight enough to cause a tip over. It can break a window, or injure an occupant. Make sure you have heavy things tied down, and loose parts contained at all times.

These 5 off-road mods might not make you a hero at the mall, but will help you to have a safe enjoyable trip off-road.

This Toyota Tacoma Build Is Ready for Anything

Venturing far off the beaten path takes preparation. The farther you wander from civilization, the more you need to be self-sufficient. The saying goes that two is one, and one is none, but it’s also easy to go overboard with parts and equipment. You can get so overloaded, you lose efficiency. Building something that has everything you need, and nothing you don’t takes careful execution.

One such truck that hits the mark is Noah Voloshin’s Toyota Tacoma. Amazingly it’s his first build, but he learned a lot helping friends on their vehicles. When it came time for his own, he knew exactly what he wanted. Everywhere you look on this truck you see the details that make it special. The quality of the components stand out, but the way they are so cleanly integrated into the truck really sets it apart.

If you look closely you will also notice the scratches and patina that lets you know this Tacoma is the real deal. Those don’t detract from the truck, they are like badges of honor. Souvenirs from a do or die rock climb, an overgrown goat trail, or a night spent hunkered down in the dirt during gale force winds.

Judging by the raw aluminum exposed on the beadlock rings of Noah’s Method Race Wheels, the aggressive tread design that wraps down onto the sidewalls of his Milestar Patagonia M/T tires has come in handy. Those gouges had to have come from big rocks, deep sand or course mud; all areas where the Patagonia M/T’s shine. They have taken everything Mother Nature has dished out.

They have taken everything Mother Nature has dished out.

Keeping the tires planted on the Tacoma is made possible by a custom suspension based on Total Chaos upper control arms in front, and Deaver progressive leaf springs in the rear; all damped by King Shocks.

It’s obvious that Noah’s Tacoma isn’t afraid to conquer tough terrain, so having the protection that covers both sides, front and rear is a must. Up front, a C4 Fab full plate front bumper provides protection while blending seamlessly with the DB Customz fab grill, and factory sheet metal.

The Tacoma’s bumper is loaded with essentials like recovery rings, and a Warn Zeon 12s platinum winch. It also mounts a full complement of Baja Designs LED lights. A light bar, fog lights, and ditch lights at each corner give Noah specific lighting for all conditions. His custom lighting covers the entire truck with supplemented rack, rock, reverse, and recovery lights. Along both sides of the Tacoma are C4 Fab rock sliders, and Pelfreybilt skid plates protect underneath.

Outback is a C4 Fab high clearance rear bumper with swingout. In addition to the recovery points and LED lighting like the front, it also carries a full sized spare, 2 Rotopax fuel containers and sand ladders.

With everything to get there and back, it was time to outfit the Toyota Tacoma for gear and other essentials. An AFE intake supplies clean air to the engine. For electrical storage, dual Odyssey batteries are used. Noah also carries an ARB twin air compressor. In the cab is a Goose Gear seat delete, and National Luna fridge freezer.

…makes one want to head out to the boonies…

A Solo Motorsports jack mount keeps the jack secured, and Leitner Designs bed rack and storage pods stow additional gear. A Front Runner Outfitters roof rack offers even more utility and creature comforts are provided by an Alucab rooftop tent and side awning.

Looking at this Toyota Tacoma and learning about its capabilities makes one want to head out to the boonies without a care in the world for some rest and relaxation.

All Surfaces, All Traction

What Is an All-Terrain Tire?

Want a tire that gives you traction no matter where you are? Well, that doesn’t exist but there is a tire that gives you great all-around traction with some compromises. That tire is the All-Terrain – or AT – tire, which used to be a single category until recently. We’ll go over the most common versions of the AT in this story.

Unlike the MT tire, the All-Terrain is a compromise between on-road comfort and off-road capability. AT tires don’t generally excel in either area but work at their best in either. They feature smaller tread blocks for the best on-road noise and wet surface grip, but the blocks are still large and aggressive enough to be used in dirt and light rock off-road conditions. However, there has been a change in how an AT tire is designed and now there are two types of tire designs within the AT tire class. Each type of AT gets closer to the MT design.

The classic AT, like the Patagonia A/T W, is designed with more on-road performance than off. Some will call this an AP (All-Purpose) or Trail type All-Terrain but there is a specific All-Purpose tire category. So, calling an AT an AP tire is technically wrong. This is mostly because it’s capable of going off-road, but its smaller tread blocks and grooves allow mud to “stick” to the tire more. This reduces traction in that condition, but the smaller tread and harder tread compound mean that it won’t do well in rock crawling conditions.

The tread also doesn’t travel down into the sidewall and it features fewer belts than the MT tire. The sidewall ply and bead design will also only allow for normal tire pressures of 30-PSI and above. When people think of “truck tires,” like what you’d see on mid- and full-size pickup trucks and SUVs, this tire design is what they will picture. It’s perfect for trucks and SUVs that don’t see much off-road action, but if it does, it’s only going to be down a dirt road.

The next step in the AT ladder is the AT-X or AT-R tire. This type features larger blocks than the standard AT and you can see this in the Patagonia A/T R. The tread blocks are much more aggressive and somewhat larger, and the sidewall of an AT-X has some tread, but not to the extent of a full MT tire. It also features more siping than an MT, but not as much as the AT. Again, the siping is there to reduce squirm and improve wet road surface traction by giving water an evacuation path. The AT-R or AT-X type All-Terrain tire is perfect for vehicles that see more off-road surfaces but still travel mainly on surface streets. It’s probably not going to work well as a rock crawler or dune tire, but you’ll be able to get to your favorite off-road and camping spots with no issues.

What both types of AT tires feature is reduced road noise. This is an integral feature of any tire that has smaller tread blocks and more grooves and sipes. When the tread rotates onto the road surface, it compresses the air. That loads up air like a spring and when it escapes, it does so at Mach speeds from the energy it gains from being compressed. If the air has a path or pocket to escape to, it reduces that compression and potential energy. That slows down the air’s speed and you no longer hear the howl as you do of an MT tire.

The AT tire is the best compromise of on-road manners and off-road capability. You’re not going to be crawling up Jackhammer with either AT tire, but you’ll produce less noise than the MT tire. You’ll be able to get to a spot where you can watch your favorite Ultra4 racer and drive home with more wet surface traction than the mud tire. If you want more off-road traction, then the AT-R or AT-X will be a better choice. You’ll get a more aggressive look than the AT and better performance off the asphalt, too. However, if you need absolute off-road traction, then you’ll have to consider something more aggressive.

Max Traction

What Is a Mud Terrain Tire?

When you think of the ultimate off-road machine, you probably imagine it having Mud Terrain – or MT – tires. What makes an MT such a specific tire? We’ll answer that today.

A Mud Terrain tire, like the Milestar Patagonia M/T, is designed for extreme off-road terrain. Despite its name, the MT is used in more than just muddy conditions. The focus of this tire type is debris ejection, be it mud or stones. Clearing out the grooves naturally with tire rotation allows the tread block leading edge to grab the next portion of the surface and “claw” through it. So, the grooves act sort of like a scoop. Otherwise, the grooves fill up and the tire loses traction.

However, an innovation made by Mickey Thompson in the 1960s and featured on nearly every MT tire since is the sidewall tread. Allowing the tread to continue down the sidewall of the tire gives the MT another area for traction in rocky and silty sand conditions. When aired down, the MT’s sidewall tread also helps to increase the tread width as the tires flatten out under vehicle weight.

Because it’s made to be aired down, the MT tires carcass is also designed much differently than a regular street tire like the Milestar Grantland. It typically features more belts to deal with the additional stress airing down creates on the sidewalls. Those belts are also designed to flex despite adding more of them. The beads are also designed to hold on to the rim at lower pressures, usually down to about 20-PSI before needing beadlocks. However, that’s not true for all MT tires. Some can go lower, some can’t go that low without a beadlock. Again, it’s up to the design so always follow the recommendations and warnings from your tire.

One of the biggest down falls of the MT tire is noise. Large tread blocks compress air into the ground, putting it under extreme pressure at the microscopic level. When the tread rotates, that highly compressed air shoots out at Mach speeds and creates the howling noise that’s typical of a very aggressive and blocky tread pattern. The other disadvantage to those large tread blocks is squirm, traction in wet road conditions, and rubber compound life.

Squirm is the movement of the tread on the road surface as the tire drives down the road. Because of its large size, the large lugs will squirm more and create heat. That heat travels through the lugs to spots where it can’t cool off and creates hot spots. The combination of squirm and hot spots creates weaknesses in the lug and can cause chunking. Squirm is typically worse on the steering axle than the drive axle, but the drive axle can still see some squirm as you accelerate on changing road conditions.

Despite its great off-road traction, wet asphalt or concrete surfaces will be its weakest points. Those large tread blocks with no grooves have a reduced amount of water removal. While the water can travel around the blocks, the blocks contacting the surface is trying to squish down water that’s between it and the road surface. Since the water is a nearly incompressible fluid, the tread rides above the surface. This is hydroplaning, which reduces traction to zero because the rubber can no longer form with the road, which is what creates grip.

A tire’s rubber compound, which arbitrarily describes the softness or hardness of rubber in tires, can also increase grip if its softer. Many MT tires are softer than their road cousins due to the requirement of traction in sand and rocks. That also means that a MT tire won’t always last as long as regular road tires. Not always, but a majority will not.

However, modern MT tires like the Patagonia M/T are designed with mixed surfaces in mind. So, while the tread blocks are still larger than a standard road tire, they feature additional grooves and purpose made sipes. The sipes allow the tread to move in smaller sizes, reducing the squirm when compared to a fully solid tread lug. The combination of grooves and sipes also helps in removing water so the tread can grip on wet asphalt and concrete roads. They also help reduce road noise by giving air an escape route before being compressed into the road.

Do you need a MT tire? Maybe. Maybe not. The only way to answer that is to ask yourself this question. “Where am I using my vehicle the most?” If you’re mostly running on surface streets with little to no off-road use, then you don’t need a MT tire. If you’re response is the opposite, how often are you on those off-road conditions and can you deal with more road noise produced by those tires? If you just want a tire that looks cool and don’t care about noise and wet surface traction, you can’t beat the aggressive looks of the MT but there still might be a tire right for you that isn’t a MT.

The Silver Stallion: ’68 Ford Bronco

Bryan Battaglini’s 1968 Ford Bronco

There’s something about a well-built classic vehicle that can get any gearhead’s heart pumping. In a sea of long wheelbase late model rigs with Bluetooth connected radios, electronic nanny stability control, and angry grilles, classic off-road rigs stand out as the cool grandpa that blazed the way for the kids. 

Well kids, grandpa has a new hip and he’s here to show you how it’s done, with style. Bryan Battaglini’s 1968 Ford Bronco has got more than enough style and all the right parts. “I love the classic Bronco.” Bryan proclaimed. “It has great lines and will always be a crowd favorite.”

We spent some time with ogling the classic stallion to get photos so we could share this beauty with you. Don’t worry, we didn’t get any drool on it.

Inside and out, Bryan’s Bronco is chockfull of class and style, blending old-school and proven technology with some modern upticks to really make it shine. The body was fitted with fiberglass front fenders, a forced-air hood was installed with gas shocks, then the whole thing was painted in PPG’s Silver Birch paint with a clear coat. A ProtoFab front bumper houses a Smittybilt X20 winch with a complementary ProtoFab rear bumper and a tire swing hanging out back.

Under that performance hood is a 1990 5.0L fuel-injected V8, loaded with shorty headers, an upgraded camshaft, and a large aluminum radiator to keep it cool. The beast exhales through a Magnaflow exhaust system while it pushes power out to the NV3550 manual 5-speed transmission and Advance Adapters Atlas transfer case.

That power gets split to Dana 44 differentials front and rear. Both diffs are loaded with ARB Air Lockers for the extra bite that is sometimes needed. All that traction leads down to a full set of 37-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T rubbers wrapped around 17-inch Level 8 Bully Pro Lock Wheels. On why he chose the Patagonias, Bryan said: “they look killer, have great traction and are very quiet on the road.”

The interior of the Bronc’ is loaded too. The fully Rhino lined interior sports an all-new electrical system with a MegaSquirt MS3 Pro computer and Flaming River tilt steering column. A Pioneer head-unit drives JBL speakers for classic tunes on any trail while riders are sitting comfortably in a set of Corbeau racing seats.

The whole rig sits on a Wild Horses 5.5-inch suspension lift, front and rear and uses dual shock hoops with dual shocks at all four corners. A 2-inch body lift gives the extra bit of clearance needed to not chop the body up for those big Milestar meats.

All said and done, the dust finally settled after a 2-year build time, Bryan is excited to continue vetting his classic rig on new terrains. “I have not put it to its full potential yet,” said Bryan. “It’s great on and off road and even as tall as it is, it still cruises on the freeway great.”

What Are LED Lights?

If you want bright but don’t want lights the size of Texas, you didn’t have much choice but to buy HID lights for your specific needs. However, a new light has been on the market and has constantly gotten better and less expensive with age. It’s the LED Light.

LED, or Light Emitting Diode, is the latest and greatest technology in lighting now. It uses a two-lead semiconductor light source that works like a p-n junction diode. If you don’t know what that is, imagine two plates sandwiching two types of conductive material. One material has electrons from the voltage applied to it while the other material has electron holes. When enough voltage is applied the electrons recombine with the holes and produces energy in the form of photons and you get light.

With halogen and HID, you can’t combine multiple patterns into one light source. You can’t have one eight-inch light that was both spot and driving – it’s one or the other. With the size of LEDs, you can get many different light patterns on the same source. Despite how bright they are, LEDs are very small usually no smaller than your pinky nail (or smaller if you have big hands). That yellow dot you see on most light circuit boards is the LED. Despite its diminutive size, it has the brightness and power to outclass many HID lights you see right now. Thanks to that you can package a very powerful light system on your vehicle without having to clutter it up.

The other bonus it has over HID is that it’s instant power up – you don’t have to wait for the plasma to build and warm up because there isn’t one. However, even LEDs, for their size and positives, have some drawbacks. LEDs are prone to producing more heat and manufacturers must take that into account when designing their lights. That includes the housings and circuit boards. That’s what adds costs to the housings because it must be waterproof, the LED can’t be exposed to outside elements, and there can be vibration issues. Even with its high cost, you can’t take away that its instant power, it can last 50-thousand-hours (if you buy from a reputable manufacturer), and you can buy fewer lights but can light up more areas.

So, if you’re looking to get your first set of off-road lights, which way should you go? Should you still use halogen? Save a little more for HID? Or are LEDs the better investment? While there will always be other factors, saving your money and getting a good, high quality LED setup isn’t a bad idea. It’s getting to the point where it’s not worth investing into a halogen or HID system because you can get so much more performance and longevity out of an LED.

With halogen lights, you get 250- to 300-hours of life out of them. With HID, it’s 3- to 5-thousand-hours. LEDs from a reputable company that engineers the product from start to finish will last up to 50-thousand-hours. You’ll probably go through several cars with a quality LED light. The only limitation is if there is an LED application for your vehicle outside universal products. However, there is always someone who makes an LED bulb to replace your headlights, fog lights, turn signals, and many other lights.

LED lights are the future for everyone. Initially more expensive than halogen and just about the same cost or just a little less expensive than HID, LEDs feature a longer life and better performance than either one. If you’re considering going LED for your project, it should be no brainer. Just be sure to purchase yours from someone you can trust, and you’ll get a long life out of it. Maybe even longer than your car lasts.

What Are HID Lights?

If you’re going fast, anything over 90-MPH, or setting off in the pitch dark of the desert, you need a light that will keep up and put light far down range. You need the High-Intensity Discharge (HID) light.

To get light beyond the mid-range you need lights that are brighter than what even a 100-watt halogen is capable of. “The HID Light opened up the entire world of what a light can do and being able to drive off of it,” says Trent Kirby, operations manager of Baja Designs, “because it produced more performance and a brighter light in the same power consumption of a halogen bulb, it opened up the world to distinct types of beam patterns. It allowed us to go beyond your traditional Euro beam and spotlights.”

What makes an HID perform better and brighter is that, instead of a halogen/tungsten chemical reaction, it uses the electrical arc of two tungsten electrodes inside a tube filled with gas and metal salts. Once that arc starts, the metal salts become plasma and increase the light produced by the arc and begin to reduce the power consumption of the light. The ballast you must use is needed to start the arc and maintain it, but the power required to drive the ballast is within the typical automotive electrical system including vehicles that used halogen lights originally. It also lasts longer than halogen with most systems lasting to about three- to five-thousand-hours.

An HID system does come with some complications over a halogen bulb and you must think of things like packaging, waterproofing, and dealing with the initial surge and warmup of the plasma inside the bulb. There are a couple of different configurations of HID lights. One is where you have an external ballast and that sits near the back of the light or you can put it in the engine bay. The other allows you to have an internal ballast.

The internal ballast has a huge advantage for harsh conditions because it won’t allow the ballast to be exposed to the environments, especially off-road drivers because that decreases reliability and longevity versus an exposed ballast. It can also make for one less part to have to package, but the internal ballast light might be bulkier. Again, it’s something you must plan out when building your lights.

One of the first cars to appear with HID lights was the 1991 BMW 750iL in low-beam only, known as Litronic. The 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII was the first effort by a US Domestic manufacturer and was the only car with direct current (DC) ballast HIDs. Most ballasts at the time, and in use today, use an alternating current (AC) inverter. This allows the current to flow through both electrodes. While DC allows for simpler ballasts, it does wear the electrode that gets constant power more quickly whereas AC can allow for more equal wear, fewer fluctuations, and reduction in flicker.

Even so, the light you get out as either a headlamp or an auxiliary light like a fog or off-road light allows you to see much further than standard halogen bulbs. Never mind the advantage over the sealed beam filament light. If you need to send light beyond halogen light or you’re approaching speeds of over 95-MPH, it’s time to start thinking of better lights and start with HID.

Bronco Buster

Bruce Winsatt’s 1971 Ford Bronco Sport

Full-size Ford Broncos are really hot right now, but the Early Model Broncos have always been highly desirable. Early Broncos bring top dollar; whether they are stock, restored, or highly modified. One Early Bronco owner is well aware of this. Bruce Winsatt had owned several full-size versions before he found this 1971 Ford Bronco early model. He was looking for a good project to undertake with his son Brandon, who was 15 years old at the time, when they found the Bronco in Pueblo, Colorado. It was a good candidate for a modified build as it was in a rather rough shape.

“The truck was in sad condition with a tired engine, a 3-speed transmission that too often would stick in second gear, and it had serious rust and holes in the floorboards,” says Bruce, “The rust was so bad, you could see the road go by from inside the truck. Having never taken on this level of restoration, we did a lot of research, talked to some great resources, and then jumped in with all 4 feet. We tore everything out, but in hindsight, we should have removed the body from the frame too.”

Like many automotive projects, you turn over a rock and find more rocks underneath. After the bodywork was finished, they had a big issue. After several attempts to align the doors, they discovered that like many nearly 50-year-old trucks, the frame had a twist in it. The frame was straightened, but in order to get the doors to line up, they would have to perform some serious sheet metal surgery. The custom half doors on each side solved their problem and add to the rugged look of the truck.

With the body sorted out and coated with Tangelo Orange paint, it was time to tackle the mechanicals. Here is where Bruce was able to pass on his knowledge to Brandon. They went through every system on the Bronco; making upgrades along the way. The front drum brakes were swapped out for discs, the brake booster was upgraded, and the entire system was redone with new hydraulic lines. The electrical wiring is all new too with the aid of a Painless Performance harness. The stock 302 engine was stroked to 347 cubic inches and puts out 400 horsepower. Mixing the fuel is a Holley 650 carb sitting on top of the Edelbrock aluminum intake manifold, and an MSD ignition lights the fire. Spent gasses are expelled out the back through a custom exhaust system. The cooling system was designed by Any Radiator in Lake Havasu City, AZ. These early Broncos are known for cooling issues and the system that Any Radiator has designed keeps the healthy V8 cool, even on the most challenging trails. All that power goes through an NP435 4-speed manual transmission with a Gear Banger shifter system. A Wild Horses 3.5-inch lift kit with Rancho 9000XL shocks allow the truck to handle extreme terrain whether they are slow speed crawling, or blazing across the desert. The suspension is further enhanced with a set of 35-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T tires. The Patagonia tires are equally at home in the rocks and in the desert. All the fun begins when you twist the Warn locking hubs, and shift into 4-wheel drive.

With the mechanicals wrapped up, there was still plenty to do. The bulged fiberglass hood, held down in front by hood pins, is coated in Tangelo paint, but much of the Bronco is a contrasting black. The bumpers, roll cage, fender flares, wheels, doors, and front grill are all dark as night. The same is true for the interior. The seats have a custom touch that ties them together with the body; matching orange piping. The custom roll cage and bumpers were designed with form and function in mind. The rear bumper includes a spare tire mount and a hitch receptacle. Both front and rear custom bumpers have Rigid Industries LED light bars flush mounted into them for a clean look.

The truck is a real looker and has been a great father and son project. Brandon is now able to build and maintain his own vehicles and is currently studying at SDSU towards a degree in Mechanical Engineering.

Wicked Big Meet: A Subaru Addicts Anonymous Meeting

Picture this…

The clock strikes eight on a warm, foggy morning in Stafford Springs, Connecticut. Chances of rain are sporadic throughout the day. Main Street is barren with hardly a person in sight. The town’s population of almost 12,000 people is mostly sleeping as they rightfully should be.

 As you pass through the town on your way to Stafford Motor Speedway, you can’t help but ask yourself, “Why in the world did I get up so early?” As you approach the entrance gate and see hundreds of Subarus all lined up and waiting to get in to what looks to be a Subaru Addicts Anonymous meeting, it hits you: “Oh right, today is Wicked Big Meet.”

Welcome to “America’s largest Subaru enthusiast festival” in the country and possibly the planet. In the last few years, Wicked Big Meet has consistently gathered over 8,000 enthusiasts and spectators to celebrate Subaru and connect “the community with other members, performance shops, parts vendors, and Subaru itself.” This year was no different with a recorded attendance of 8,400 people. 

The meet (as it once was considered to be for it’s originally small size) was founded in 2005 and, after being acquired by Robert Champion of SubieEvents, LLC, it laid the groundwork for their six other shows that now take place all across the country. You essentially can’t go to a region of the U.S. now that doesn’t have an annual show to celebrate Subaru.

But wait, you’ve never been to Wicked Big Meet? Here’s what it’s like to attend:

THE WICKED BIG MEET EXPERIENCE

Ok, so you’ve successfully acquired your ticket while keeping your jaw intact. As the attendants direct you to your parking spot, you ogle over and critique the cars that are already parked and not in the show: An actual right-hand drive Forester STI, a great looking “Saabaru” wagon, and…oh great, another plasti-dipped “Bugeye” WRX. Snap out of it and park already!

As you walk to the entrance, you notice multiple spectators standing on top of cars, all of which who are trying to capture the breadth of their surroundings…and to make those that couldn’t make it really jealous. The line gets longer and, as it wraps around the lot, you get a better view of cars rolling in. 

It’s 9 o’clock now and the gates are officially open. Let the madness begin.

From Google’s satellite view, the speedway doesn’t seem that large, at least compared to some of the more famous tracks in the U.S., but as you walk through the gates into the show, it feels like every crevice is filled with something to look at. There’s almost literally a Subaru of every kind – from rally-prepped to “ruined” – wherever you look and you’re obviously not complaining.

INNOVATION COMES NOT-SO STANDARD

Wicked Big Meet is a great show to attend if you’re looking to see innovation from both vendors and competitors alike. Although vendors are allowed to use display vehicles from other manufacturers, many chose to show Subarus and the boundaries on what can and can’t be done change continually with each passing year, thanks partially in part to them. 

Take this flared, 2JZ-powered BRZ (pictured above) for example. Although it certainly isn’t the first of it’s kind, there’s no doubt that the configuration wasn’t plug-and-play by any means. Long nights and extensive fabrication was no doubt involved, but the simple fact that it exists proves it can be done and will surely inspire other horsepower junkies to do the same.

When it comes to one-of-a-kind innovative car however, the Billetworkz RB26-powered WRX is a whole different story. As far as anyone knows, the owner had to move the firewall back just to get the Skyline motor to fit in there…and to make a mid-engined WRX, obviously. It still retains an All-Wheel Drive system and is the first of its kind, making it another example for what can be done to these cars.

A TRUE FAMILY-FRIENDLY EVENT

One of the greatest things about Wicked Big Meet is the fact that it’s such a family-friendly show. To be clear, when using the term “family-friendly,” it’s more about the all-inclusiveness of it rather than its alleviation of childrens’ boredom. But make no mistake, plenty of families that attended were made up of three generations…but I digress.

The best part about the family-friendly aspect of Wicked Big Meet is that, at a time when vehicles have become more automated and “handicapped” than ever, the young children brought to these kinds of shows are being exposed to “real” cars. Cars that, not only have gearboxes but also, were often built by the people that own them. The “Saving of the Manuals” is real my friends!

SUBARU LISTENS!

Over the past 13 years of Wicked Big Meet’s existence, the involvement of Subaru of America, Inc. has steadily grown. In the last few years, they’ve not only helped sponsor the event in some form, but also incorporated all the regional shows into their marketing strategy. Not only do they promote all the shows that SubieEvents LLC offers, they also use them to surprise enthusiasts.

In addition to their traditional offerings of ride-alongs with sponsored rally drivers and roped off displays of their rarest gems (including, but not limited to, the highly-acclaimed Impreza 22B and #001 STI Type RA), Subaru went even further this year and put their infamous, bruised and battered “Boxersled” STI on a vertical display. They also unveiled their limited-edition 2019 Series Grey WRX and STIs to spectators. Since it was the 30th anniversary of Subaru Technica International, the roped off lineup of gems also included an example of each generation of STI – a real treat for the most diehard of Subie Fanatics.

So, with all the being said, if you have even an ounce of enthusiasm for the Subaru brand and want to share it with other like-minded people, then you’d be hard pressed not to go to at least one event put on by Champion and the gang.

Battering Ram: Dodge RAM 2500 HD

Andrew Hoit’s Dodge Ram 2500 HD

Andrew Hoit from Chino, California shows us what a great offroad vehicle you can build if you keep it simple and do key improvements to an already capable platform. His 2016 Dodge Ram 2500 HD is actually a replacement for a similar Dodge Ram he had that was totaled when a careless driver drifted into his lane. He was impressed with how well the Dodge protected himself and his fiancé in the crash so there was no doubt what he would purchase the second time around. His reasons for choosing the Dodge for his offroad build include comfort, safety, versatility, and the Cummins 6.7 liter diesel engine!

The 6.7 liter Cummins diesel is legendary for reliability and supplies 385 horsepower and a staggering 900 foot pounds of torque. In order to take full advantage of that torque, Andrew swapped the gears in both axles to Nitro 4.32:1 ratio ring and pinion sets. All that torque is applied by a set of AEV Salta rims sized 17X8 that are wrapped with 37X12.5R17 Milestar Patagonia M/Ts. When Andrew gets out in his truck, he heads for the mountains. Like many of us, he has to travel a lot of freeway miles to get to his destination. His Milestar Patagonias are comfortable on the pavement but still aggressive enough to excel in the mud, rocks, and snow that he finds at his favorite camping spots. The 37-inch size gives him plenty of ground clearance at the differentials and provides a nice contact patch for maximum traction. A Bilstein B8 5160 Leveling Kit with Eibach Springs up front and the matching Bilstein B8 5160 application out back make room for those tires. You can begin to see a pattern here, Andrew has selected highly only the most reliable and effective components to fortify his Dodge.

Speaking of fortifications, you can’t miss the ARB Full Deluxe Modular Winch Bar Kit out front. A pair of ARB Intensity LED lights are mounted to the front to illuminate anything ahead, even in the rare case that cable needs to be pulled from the Warn Winch mounted to the ARB bumper. Further fortifications include a Cage 4X4 heavy duty skid plate. The added electronic components are integrated into the Dodge Ram by an sPod HD Touchscreen Control. He also has a Rugged Radio tied into the sPOD to communicate with the outside world.

When Andrew wants to get away from the outside world, he has an ARB Rooftop tent and canopy for protection from the elements. Andrew built the custom bed rack that holds the ARB tent himself. Raising the tent up allows the bed to hold a decked cargo system that provides tons of lockable storage space, his ARB fridge, and whatever gear, firewood, or supplies that he desires. Andrew’s capable Dodge is a well thought out, and perfectly executed 4X4 that can go anywhere with ease. Whether he’s stuck in traffic on a Southern California freeway, or relaxing in the fresh air of a pine forest, Andrew has everything he needs to be safe and comfortable no matter where he is.