Lifting Your Rig 101: What to Consider

When the manufacturer sets out to design and produce the latest model four-wheel drive (4wd) vehicle, they are required to balance many factors from vehicle weight to carbon footprint. These constraints force them to choose components that meet the desired platform goals but typically leave little room before modifications exceed the strength of the factory components. With an estimated +300 billion dollars being spent in the light truck and SUV aftermarket in 2022, its safe to say there are plenty customers looking to upgrade their 4wd vehicles and one of the first modifications most owners make to a 4wd after purchase is to add some type of suspension lift and larger tires.

For many, this is done merely for looks. For those who intend to use their newly purchased 4wd to take them on remote off-highway adventures or to tackle technical trails, a lift kit and larger tires is only the first step. What is soon discovered is that the additional tire size and weight create more stress on the suspension and drive axles. While most lift kit manufacturers take these additional factors into consideration during the development of the replacement suspension components, upgrading the drive axles for strength and performance is left up to the consumer to determine what and when.

For most the first step is to replace the factory ring and pinion (gear set) with one that provides a lower drive ratio. How low of a drive ratio you choose to install is determined by how you intend to use your 4wd. At minimum you want to install a gear set that lowers your gearing enough to match the final drive ratio your vehicle came equipped with from the factory. Matching the factory final drive ratio will return the performance lost by installing larger tires, yet in most cases it isn’t enough to noticeably improve the vehicles off-road capability. To do that we need to increase the torque being delivered to the tires as well as increase (lower) the vehicles crawl ratio. The simplest way to do that is to install an even lower ratio gear set. How low of a gear ratio you choose can often be limited to the type and model axles your vehicle is equipped with, but for most applications gears in the 4.56:1 or 4.88:1 (higher the number the lower the gear ratio) are the most common for vehicles with tires up to 37” diameter.

…additional tire size and weight create more stress on the suspension and drive axles...

Before you spend your money on replacing the axle gears, there is another upgrade to take into consideration that can be installed at the same time as your new axle gears. With few exceptions, the drive axles in your 4wd vehicle are equipped with an open differential. The differential is a component that consists of a carrier housing, that is driven by the ring gear, containing a set of gears known as spider gears which in turn drive the axle shafts. When traveling in a straight line the tires are turning at the same speed and equal power is transferred to both drive axles. However, when you turn, the outside tire has to travel a further distance than the inside. To accomplish this the spider gears inside the carrier, allow the outside tire to turn faster than the inside tire. While this design is great for most driving situations, it doesn’t lend itself to low traction situations because it allows the power to be transferred to the tire with the least amount of resistance. To increase a vehicle’s off-road prowess, replacing the factory differential with a mechanical traction control device, more commonly known as a locker can be extremely beneficial.

There are multiple options to choose from when it comes to lockers. The cheapest and most basic is the drop in or “lunch box” locker. The lunch box locker simply replaces the factory spider gears with specially machined interlocking components that engage (lock) when power is applied and disengage (unlock) when coasting. The design allows equal torque to be applied to the axles anytime the vehicle is under power. They are however only as strong as the factory cast iron carrier and are known to create erratic handling characteristics on pavement. Due to these characteristics, most people choose to only run them in the front axle which is typically disengaged when driving on the pavement. The next level up is the full case mechanical locker. More commonly referred to as the Detroit locker. These lockers replace the factory carrier and spider gears with a complete unit made from much stronger materials. The overall design functions similar to a lunch box locker and can lead to handling issues if used on the street. Most people choose to limit the installation of Detroit’s to vehicles that see very little road use. The most expensive option is the selectable locker. Available in electric, air, or cable actuation, selectable lockers give the owner the best of both on and off-road traction and handling. Similar to a Detroit, a selectable locker completely replaces the factory carrier. Once installed, they operate very similar to a factory open differential until the owner “engages” the locker. Once engaged, a geared collar slides into place and locks the differential creating equal traction to both wheels. Once the added traction is no longer needed, the driver can simply turn off or disengage the locker. Selectable lockers are most often installed in the rear, and are actually becoming more and more common as factory installed options on many current 4wd vehicles, but they work equally as well in the front axle.

Hodson’s Dodge DW300 Is an Art Masterpiece!

Over the last several years, the father and son team of Derrick and Riley Hodson of Las Vegas’ Hodson Motors have become synonymous with creating functional works of art from formerly ignored and often abused classic workhorse truck foundations. Combining body parts from light, medium, and heavy-duty trucks and blending them in such a way that is easily overlooked as stock by the casual observer, the team have developed a formula that has proven hard to beat. Their latest is a 1968 Dodge W300 Crew Cab that has taken their build style and pushed it to a whole new level.

Instead of starting from scratch on this project, the Hodson’s started with a partially finished project that the former owner had already invested a considerable amount of time and effort into, creating a solid drivetrain as the foundation to build off of. Starting with a rare 1968 Dodge W200 ¾ ton Crew Cab truck, the former owner installed an early Superduty Dana 60/ Sterling 10.5 axle combo slung on the same era Superduty leaf spring suspension, utilizing custom mounts front and rear. Under the hood he installed a tried and true 5.9L 12 valve Cummins mated to an NV4500 and a divorced NP205 transfer case. It was at this point that Riley purchased the project.

The Birth of An Industry: ’46 Jeep Willys

Hodson Motor’s 1965 Jeep J60 Dually:
One of a Kind, One at a Time

You’ve seen their trucks before (and are most likely obsessed with one or all of them if you’re anything like us). Their personal collection of insanely cool, larger-than-life custom pickup creations are definitely labors of love, and each one is an example of equal parts creative vision, healthy obsession and attention to detail and purpose.

Of course, we’re talking about the legendary father/son combo Derrick and Riley Hodson. The Hodsons call the outlying dessert landscape of Las Vegas home, which is just far away from the bright lights of the big city to give them all the peace and quiet they need in order to dream up these large-scale truck build before getting down and dirty bringing them to life.

Classic, rare medium-duty trucks are the Hodsons’ forte, and over the years, they have truly developed a design perspective that is uniquely their own—you’ll know a Hodson truck when you see it. The truck itself will be an industrial-grade pickup of some sort that wasn’t meant for the everyday consumer to hold the keys to, but that’s half of the appeal. Once the guys zero in on a truck they want, they located it, dig it out of its long-time place of rest, and apply their own special sauce to the equation. So far, this process has yet to let them down.

…you’ll know a Hodson truck when you see it…

Even though Derrick and Riley specialize in legitimate medium-duty trucks, they also like to drive the trucks they built—otherwise, what’s the point, right? To allow them to have a get more seat time behind one of their own creations, they sat down and developed what they now affectionately call the Jeep J60—essentially a 4-door J10 pickup. If you’ve never heard of this particular model before, don’t fret—it has never existed. Well, until now.

This particular project was designed to be more of a real-world daily driver. Now, don’t get us wrong—each and every one of their builds is painstakingly designed to function well on the road. Broken down, the Hodson’s Jeep J60 consists of a Jeep Wagoneer 4-door that has been sliced at the back of the cab and sealed up with the back wall of a J10 pickup cab grafted in. The rear doors received a great deal of metalwork to further give this creation the appearance of a true 4-door pickup.

…each and every one of their builds is painstakingly designed to function well on the road…

The front of the cab features a 60’s-era Gladiator grille that resides front and center, as well as wide front fenders from Autofab. The rear features a custom bed, a big side step tailgate, and step side fenders that have been widened a whopping 10 inches! The paint color of choice that makes all those cool customizations gel in complete harmony is Ford Raptor Lead Foot grey—and man, does it look good.

Paint isn’t the only Ford component to be incorporated into the creation of the J60, however, as the full-custom body was laid atop a 2004 Ford F450 dually chassis complete with a 6.0 Powerstroke engine and 5-speed automatic transmission. This truck sounds just as good as it looks with that big diesel rumbling underneath the hood, and to give the truck the oversize appearance that is synonymous with all Hodson trucks, 22-inch American Force wheels covered in 37X13.50R22 Milestar Patagonia X/T tires were bolted into position. The roll bar the guys went with is as burly as it looks—even more so, actually. While a lot of roll bar setups are fabricated out of hollow tube pipe, the stuff used here is solid through and through.

Hopping up into the cab is made easier with AMP Research Powerstep running boards, and with just one glance inside the cab, you’d be blown away by how clean the interior space is. Black and grey upholstered seats and other paneling from TMI Products helped make all the difference in updating and upgrading the entire confines of the J60. Creature comforts are never spared in any of the Hodson one-off pickups. While this truck already boasts an impressive lineup of high-end amenities, the guys wouldn’t dare one of their projects be considered finished without Dakota Digital gauges, a full audio system, power windows and door locks, and of course, ice cold A/C.

While the J60 is hardly alone as the single shining star in the deep Hodson stable, it does stand as one of their favorites. This truck does get a little more road time than some of the others, but that was the point of building it. Unless the guys are just planning to go for a cruise without making many (if any) stops, any selection from their lineup would do just fine, but the J60 has been dialed in to give them everything they love to put into their projects, in a slightly more compact package—even through there’s really nothing small about it.

Five years have been invested into this build, and a talented supporting cast in Nefarious Customs, 6651 Customs, Airth Defined, Cheyenne Ruether, Jeeprecyclers.com, and more were sourced to bring it all together. Trucks like these don’t just appear out of nowhere—they require a lot of imagination, skill, patience, and a sh*tload of parts.

2022 King of the Hammers

Taking on the Toughest Off-Road Race on the Planet

What started as a “beer bet” between friends on a dry lakebed in Johnson Valley nearly 15 years ago has grown to one of the biggest weeks of off-road racing in the world: the Ultra 4 King of the Hammers (KOH). The people are just as spectacular to watch as the vehicles. KOH is a week-long party—imagine Burning Man with the excitement of off-road racing. 

The initial premise was simple, blend rock crawling with high-speed desert racing. KOH requires race vehicles that can handle both terrains. The racecourse seems impossible to those unfamiliar with the race, pitting man and machine against a course filled with rocks the size of a city buses and drop-offs over 10 feet tall.

Weeks before, HammerKing Productions employees and volunteers descend on Means Dry Lakebed to build Hammertown, a 56-acre, high-tech camp. It’s the center of King of the Hammers, and so involved even the Navy and Marine Corps lend a hand. It houses thousands of spectators, participants, racers, crew, and those there for the 10-day party. 

Image the sensory overload of an event like SEMA, but where vehicles are actually put to the test in the desert. It’s hard to take it all in, but luckily, you have ten days to do it. Hammertown features pit crew challenges, qualifying races, pre-runs, vendors, driver meet and greets, and various other events. Plus, there’s food throughout the town and music every night. 

Hammertown is like going to a car show and enjoying the cars in the parking lot; participants and their vehicles are just as fun to watch as the races. You need an off-road capable vehicle to see various sections of the racecourses, and KOH brings out the best and most interesting off-road rigs around. From jacked-up Mercedes to Econoline vans straight out of a 1980s summer camp and every genre of Jeep. 

The KOH community makes it a world-known event. With crazy rigs and dedicated enthusiasts partying for a week straight. The off-road community is a tight-knit group looking for fun with dirt-filled grins, hats made of beer cans, and bound fires that last all night. 

…KOH brings out the best and most interesting off-road rigs around…

The lakebed is in the center of Johnson Valley, which is known for having some of the most challenging terrain on the west coast, with large boulders, steep drop-offs, and narrow trail sections. King of the Hammer’s name comes from the notorious “hammer” trails. Many of the nearly 500 registered racers don’t make it back to the finish line. Johnson Valley trails have also claimed many lives over the years. It puts drivers and crew through various off-road racing disciplines from steep rocky mountains, rolling hills, open sections, and a large dry lake bed, with elevations ranging from 4,600 to 2,300 feet. Modern-day Ultra4 cars require indestructible components and produce over 900 horsepower.

The start/finish line is in Hammertown, allowing spectators to get up close to the action, starting with a closed-circuit style dirt course section. This section of track allows for door-to-door action in qualifying and a unique start/finish to off-road racing.

Across the Means Dry Lakebed, is the high-speed section with divots, obstacles, and hard-to-see terrain. Far from a smooth lakebed like Bonneville, this terrain requires faith in your equipment and nerves of steel to keep full throttle. 

After the Dry Lakebed, the land immediately transitions into technical rock trails with boulders of sizes ranging from a few feet tall to those bigger than the vehicles themselves. Racers go from triple-digit speeds immediately into narrow paths up mountain terrain. From loose sand into jagged rocks, these areas require patience, tough tires, and an impenetrable undercarriage. Don’t be surprised to see multiple rollovers throughout the event. 

What started as a single-day race in the Southern California desert in 2007 has grown to a 10-day event in 2022 with multiple classes, including Trophy Truck, UTVs, and Ultra4 cars. They compete on different days leading up to the Race of Kings’ main event.

This year’s Hammer’s week featured four primary races. First, the Toyo Tires Desert Challenge, a classic style lapped desert race. Second, is the Can-Am UTV Hammer Championship, where UTVs race the same course as the big 4400 cars. Third, is the 4-Wheel Parts Every Man Challenge, which features four separate classes 4600 – Stock, 4500 – Modified Class, 4800 – Legends class, and the EV Class. For the 2022 event, every class was packed with competitors, all attempting to tame the racecourse and bring home the coveted King of the Hammers trophy.

…What started as a single-day race in the Southern California desert in 2007 has grown to a 10-day event in 2022 with multiple classes…

The Desert Challenge featured two days of non-stop action, with the limited class racing on day one. Chase Warren in his Class 10 car held off Mitch Guthire Jr. in his Polaris RZR Pro R for the win. Brady Wisdom took the third spot on the podium in his Class 10 car. Day two featured the Unlimited Race with the Trophy Trucks (T1), and the 6100 trucks (T2) laid down the power in the desert. Qualifying for this race featured a prologue included in the overall time to determine a winner. Last year’s winner Bryce Menzies, one of the favorites to win, had drivetrain troubles that pulled him out of the race after one lap. Kyle Jergensen held off the charge from Luke McMillin, who had a throttle cable issue that cost him precious minutes and left him in third place behind Christopher Polvoorde.

 With the desert racing out of the way, it was time to go to the rocks. First up was the UTVs maneuvering through the rocks, flying through the desert, and running door-to-door on obstacles. Kyle Chaney held off Hunter Miller for the win, and Paul Wolff battled his way through for a third-place finish.

One of the most fantastic races to watch is the Every Man Challenge, where you can race everything from a vintage 4400 car to a stock Suzuki Samurai taking on the course. This years’ race had an extra level of excitement as the Ford Performance team was on hand with new Bronco race vehicles. They swept the stock 4600 class with Vaughn Gittin Jr., Brad Lovell, and Bailey Cole, finishing 1-2-3 for Ford.

Dan Fresh was your overall winner and 4800 Legends class winner with a speedy time beating Toby Stacy by over 30 minutes, with Chayse Caprara taking the third spot just minutes behind Stacy. In the Modified 4500 Class, John Mathews held off a strong charge from Joe Gatlin to win, with Kenneth Goodall earning the third podium spot.

Only one race was left to crown the 2022 King, The Race of Kings. With over 100 entrants this year, the field was stacked with plenty of cars and drivers gunning for the top spot. However, the race came down to two guys, three-time king Jason Scherer and longtime competitor and top challenger Raul Gomez. These two battled all day with Jason out front most of the day before a costly flop had him winching early on the third lap.

With Gomez out to a solid lead, a high-center had him winching while Scherer could make up time. Another late-game flat tire made it impossible to catch up to Gomez, who earned first win in Johnson Valley and the first solo competitor to take the title. Finishing in the third spot was Josh Blyler, who battled his way through the field after qualifying 20th for an impressive finish.

 The King has been crowned for this year, and that means guys like Scherer, Levi Shirley, Erick Miller, Shannon Campbell will be looking to take back the crown next year as the target is now squarely on Gomez’s back.

The Basics 

• King of Hammers began as a private event, created by rock-crawler champion Dave Cole and desert racer Jeff Knoll. 

• King of Hammers is typically held on the first week of February. While technically the King of Hammers race is a one-day race, there’s a week of events leading up to that final day. 

• King of the Hammers is held on the Means Dry Lakebed, as a part of the Johnson Valley OHV. California has state-run areas known as OHV areas (Off-Highway Vehicles), where off-road vehicles can be used. 

• Johnson Valley is known as the Home of the Hammers, having several intense trails such as the Jackhammer and Sledgehammer trails. 

• The center of King of Hammers is Hammertown, where teams, sponsors, and participants turn the desert into a temporary city of racing. Admission includes access to Hammertown and gets fans close to the start/finish line.  

• Different areas of the racecourse are easily accessible with a stock off-road vehicle. 

• Past winners and those who participated in the first event are invited to return at every race thereafter.
  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

Suspension Tech: Shock Reservoirs and Bypass Valves

Performance hydraulic shocks are both simple, and complicated at the same time. Both their function, and the parts they use are relatively simple, but it’s how they are configured that makes such a huge difference. First let’s look at what shocks do. The weight of the vehicle is held up by some type of spring (air, leaf, coil, or torsion bar). The shocks control the motion of the suspension. They do this by friction which causes heat. In essence, they do the same thing that your brakes do, but differently.

Hydraulic shocks are filled with special fluid that comes in different viscosities. Viscosity is a technical term for how thick, or thin the fluid is. The shock has a body, a shaft, and a piston. The piston is mounted to the end of the shaft which slides inside the bore of the shock body. As the shock is extended or collapsed, the shock fluid inside the body of the shock is forced through openings (ports) in the piston. These openings are covered by flat springs or shims that flex to either open or close the ports. As the fluid flows through the ports, it creates friction, and therefore heat, so it dissipates energy. This is commonly referred to as damping. The heat is then transferred to the air outside the shock. Shocks use thermodynamics, and fluid dynamics to control the movements of your suspension. Like I said, they are both simple, and complicated at the same time. 

Most factory supplied shocks, and inexpensive aftermarket shocks, have no external features. The common name for these shocks are smooth bodies, and it’s one reason why they are inexpensive. They still work the same way as the expensive shocks do, by forcing fluid through the ports in the piston. As the shaft moves in and out of the shock body, the piston moves through the fluid, and the shaft displaces the fluid. There needs to be room in the shock body for that shock fluid to go. On some shocks, they just leave enough air space for the fluid to move. If you are in rough terrain, and the shaft is moving in, and out quickly, the air in the shock body can mix with the fluid reducing the viscosity; creating emulsification. This causes the shock to fade. It can no longer provide the same damping. Your shocks will not be as effective until they cool down, and the air and fluid separate again. To prevent this, some shocks have a floating piston that separates the fluid, and the air. This prevents the fluid from foaming, but it takes up room in the shock. If you are using the factory supplied shock mounting locations, this will limit the amount of travel available for the shock to cycle.       

Most factory supplied shocks, and inexpensive aftermarket shocks, have no external features…

Once you start moving up in price levels, you will see external features like remote reservoirs, and bypass tubes. Both of these features are used to allow additional flow of the fluid inside the shock. Remote reservoirs can be attached to the shock body, or be mounted remotely by using a hose between the shock body, and the reservoir. For added strength, shock manufacturers will increase the diameter of the shock shaft. This then displaces even more fluid. With a remote reservoir, you have the necessary space to allow the additional fluid to be displaced, and you can add additional features that are not typically found on smooth body shocks. Most remote reservoirs have a floating piston, and a valve that allows you to charge the reservoir with compressed nitrogen. Nitrogen is used because it is more stable than oxygen; it expands less when it gets hot. This nitrogen pressure forces the floating piston against the shock fluid so no air bubbles form in the shock fluid. Increasing the nitrogen pressure can also be used as a minute tuning adjustment, but that’s a whole other article. Since fluid is moving from the shock body to the reservoir, some shocks will have an adjuster that controls that flow of fluid. It is one more opportunity to create adjustment to the shock. It allows you to change the damping of the shock by simply turning a knob. You can stiffen them up to control sway on the street, and then back them off so your suspension will travel freely when in the dirt.

When it comes to the ultimate in adjustability, you now have the bypass shock. There are internal, and external bypass shocks. Fluid bypass works on both the compression stroke (the shaft pushing into the shock body) and the rebound cycle (the shaft pulling out). First we will talk about a single, external bypass tube used in compression, and what it does. The bypass tube will be welded to the outside of the shock body. It has an intake port that allows fluid in, and an adjustable, one way valve on the opposite end of the tube that regulates fluid flow back into the shock body. As the piston moves during compression, it pushes fluid into the bypass tube. Depending on the way the valve is adjusted, it could be a lot of fluid, or very little. The more fluid through, the softer it will be, and vice versa. 

Now we can discuss what it means to be position sensitive. Let’s say you have 3 bypass tubes that work during the compression cycle, and the shock is completely extended. As the piston moves into the shock body it is pushing fluid into all three bypass port openings. The openings are strategically placed on the shock so each opening creates a zone. As the piston moves past an opening, no more fluid is moving through that tube. Depending on where the ports are located in the stroke, you can adjust the fluid flow according to the position of the piston. That makes the bypass ports position sensitive. You can make the shock progressively stiffer as it compresses, or several other configurations according to bypass tube placement, and number. The same is possible for the rebound cycle. 

When it comes to the ultimate in adjustability, you now have the bypass shock…

When it comes to bypass shocks, there is also an internal bypass configuration that uses port openings that are not typically externally adjustable. The internal bypass design has a sleeve inside the body where the piston rides. The sleeve has ports in it to allow fluid to flow through to the space between the sleeve, and the larger diameter of the actual shock body. 

We have only covered the basics of bypass, and external reservoirs. There are many different variations and unique applications to these basic concepts. When it comes to shock design, the best and the brightest have been experimenting for over a century. When it comes time to upgrade your shocks, be sure to talk to the experts at the shock companies as technology, and designs continue to advance. Both Fox, and Bilstein are making electronically controlled shocks that are even more intricate, and capable of fine adjustments.     

Top 5 Overlanding Necessities

1. Water

Water is a no-brainer because you cannot live without it. It is the most basic necessity regardless of where you are. It is used for drinking, washing, cooling your engine, and preparing food. Early transportation routes were laid out according to where clean water could be found. They were routed from one watering hole to the next. Those who like to go overlanding where water is abundant still need a way to filter it before drinking. There are all types of filtering devices from hand held straws, to elaborate reverse osmosis, or ultraviolet light emitting systems that can be mounted to your vehicle. Boiling the water is also an option, but that requires time, and fuel. If you are harvesting water along the way, you will need containers to capture, and store it. You don’t want to put filtered water back into a container that had untreated water in it, so you need more than one.

Those who are in dry locations will have to haul their water in. Any long term trips off the grid will be limited by the amount of water you use, or don’t use. There are many tricks to conserving water. One is to scrub pots and pans with sand or dirt instead of water. Just be sure to get it all off before your next meal. A gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds. Gasoline only weighs 6.1 pounds per gallon. Think of how sturdy gas tanks are built. Your water tanks need to be just as robust, and be mounted low on the vehicle, like fuel tanks, in order to keep your vehicle stable. If you are going to be overlanding, you need a reliable system in place.  

2. Tires

You need good tires when you head off road. They are the only thing between you, and the ground. Not only do your tires need to provide traction for forward progress, but they also give you control when stopping, and steering. In many types of terrain, you won’t get 5 feet without off-road tires. Street tires will get packed with mud or just spin in the sand without getting traction. Tires also need to be durable enough to resist getting punctures, or having the tread sliced to bits on the rocks. No matter how good your tires are, eventually you may still get a flat so make sure you have a good spare, and repair tools for fixing punctures. Getting double flats is not uncommon as you can hit the same impediment with more than one tire. Having a single spare tire won’t always solve your problem. There is a good reason why off road tires are almost always the first modification done. Good tires will make a huge difference in your ability to have fun in the dirt. 

In  many types of terrain, you wont get 5 feet without off-road tires…

3. First Aid Kit

When you think of first aid, many think bandages, and tape, but you also need to consider your vehicle’s requirements. You should have spare parts on board to fix common issues that regularly arise. Typical parts to carry are belts, hoses, fluids, fuses, and the tools needed to make repairs. Do some research on your vehicle to find out what fails over time, and what the repair job requires. I had a custom suspension on my prerunner that took some special bolts. I put together my own kit that had a new replacement bolt for every one used on my suspension. Over time your kit will grow to include all types of spares as you learn from experience. 

Once your vehicle has everything it needs to stay healthy, you can focus on passengers. There is a big difference between a simple first aid kit, and one that is capable of handling severe trauma. If a medical emergency takes place, chances are everyone will be stressed. Having a serious medical kit will not only be a huge benefit in treating the patient, but it will also give you solutions that will keep everyone calm. Number one is having enough materials to stop bleeding as it is an immediate problem. You will also need pain medications like aspirin or ibuprofen. Some antihistamine is crucial for swelling or bug bites, and disinfectant or antibacterial ointment is always good to have. If you are on medication, make sure you have more than what you need for your trip in case you get delayed. A good thing to do is consult your doctor. They will know what types of medications, and implements are best to have on hand. 

4. Navigation

We all go overlanding in the first place to get away from everything, but it’s also important to get back again; you need to learn how to navigate. Too many people simply rely on electronic devices for navigation. They are nice, and give us tons of useful tools when they work. When they don’t, you can get in a lot of trouble. It’s so easy to throw a map in your truck of the places you’re going to visit. That way if your electronic device fails for any reason, you will be able to figure out where to go. One of the handiest maps to bring is a topographic, or topo map as many call it. The topo map shows the contour of the terrain. It has lines that are based on elevation. Lines close together mean the terrain is steep. Open areas with few lines are mostly flat. The topo map is also great for locating landmarks. If you see a high elevation, or big depression, you will be able to verify your position according to what you see. It’s also good to know what direction you are heading. This can be easy in wide open spaces by watching the sun. In dense forests or canyons it can be nearly impossible. Don’t trust the old saying that moss only gathers on north facing surfaces; nature is not absolute. Most people just use a compass. Get one, and learn how to use it. 

5. Recovery Gear

Certain things are a given when going off road; like getting stuck. You should always have a few items needed to get un-stuck. First is a shovel. I once slide into a snowbank and had to dig myself out with my license plate. Now I always have a shovel. You will also need a good tow strap, and strong recovery points on your vehicle. With today’s plastic clad vehicles, it can be a challenge to find someplace to attach a rope. Make sure you have something on the front, and rear. If you travel alone, you probably need a winch, and all the paraphernalia that goes along with one. The traction boards that are everywhere are also very handy for self-extraction. High lift jacks are very popular, but I wonder if they ever get used on some rigs because you need strong lifting points with plenty of clearance. If you don’t have beefy bumpers or sliders, they are almost useless. 

Certain things are a given when going off road; like getting stuck…

This list just covers the basics, and admittedly many may have different needs, and desires. The bottom line is to be able to get where you’re going, and back, while keeping everyone healthy, and happy along the way.   

The Differential Difference

Adding the Right Traction to Your 4WD Truck

Before we dive right into how to turn up your truck’s traction ability, let’s first ponder a question that should be answered honestly. How do you anticipate driving your truck? Will it spend most of its time on the road, and will the off-roading you do plan on doing be mostly on gravel or compacted dirt? Will you be doing any driving on icy, snowy or wet conditions on pretty advanced off-road terrain? Do you anticipate driving through trails where very uneven ground, rocks and other obstacles and holes will be present? Taking these questions into consideration will greatly impact your decision-making when looking to upgrade your truck’s differential system(s). 

If you answered ‘yes’ to the first question above—congratulations! If you plan on sticking to mostly streets and highways or surfaces that are hard but not technically paved stretches of land, you really don’t have to worry about messing with your truck’s factory-equipped open differential, which is great. We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is. 

We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is…

For those who answered ‘yes’ to the second and/or third questions with the anticipation of driving through surfaces impacted by inclement weather that also feature more severe terrain, then you might want to consider shopping around for limited-slip or locking differentials. There are plenty out there to choose from, and it is best to still keep your personal driving scenario in mind when wading through these waters. 

Now, also keep in mind that whichever type of traction-adding components you choose will have a direct effect on different types of driving, wherein lies the importance of staying true to what you will actually be using your truck for. Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely. 

Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely…

Most light off-road duty adventures will be greatly improved with a rear limited slip differential, or better yet both a rear and front limited slip. These are the most widely used and common types of diffs since they cover such a wide application spectrum. What the limited slip does is shift a percentage of the torque to the wheel that has the most traction while limiting the slip on the wheel experiencing the least amount of traction (the one that is stuck in the air or free spinning on a patch of black ice). Torque is not always balanced between the wheels here, which will allow your truck to power through less than ideal surface situations with less of a chance of getting stuck. Icy, wet or uneven ground will pose less of a threat with the limited slip differential, so if you plan on encountering any of these foes on a regular basis, this traction-adding upgrade will definitely be money well spent. 

A locking differential will take your rig further than any limited slip setup can—no question. Now, do you absolutely, positively need to install a locker? Well, that all depends on if you want the power of a true 4×4, which means that all four wheels are getting power to the ground. Anything less than that might very well leave you stranded when attempting to take on some serious mud pits or extremely rough country. If you still plan on driving your truck on regular surface streets when you’re done on the trail, you’ll want to look into selectable lockers specifically. This will allow your truck to fire on all 4 wheels while off-roading, while still having the ability to flip back to an open or standard (stock) diff configuration with the flip of a switch. You’ll be able to beat the piss out of it off road, and still actually be able to drive it comfortably on surface streets just like normal. 

Within the realms of limited slip and locking differentials are other options to consider, naturally. There isn’t one system out there that can meet the demand of every driver of every truck for all conditions, so don’t get your hopes up. If you know and understand exactly what you’re asking of your truck, however, then you should already have a better idea of what side of the traction fence you’ll need to invest time and money into. The rest is merely addressing the details of personal preferences in order to fine-tune your driving experience. 

Top 10 Tools Every Off-Roader Should Carry

Tools are something that make everyday life possible. They come in a full range from “must haves” to “would be nice.” Some people would argue that all you need is a credit card, and a satellite phone. Most of us would rather help ourselves than call for help. The better your tools, the easier difficult tasks can become; especially when working on vehicles. Even simple tasks can become impossible if you don’t have the right tools. So what do you need as an off-roader? Let’s take a look at the basics. 

Most of us would rather help ourselves than call for help…

1. Socket Wrench

Flat tires happen. One of the most often required, and useful tools you can carry is a wrench that can remove or replace lug nuts. There are many options available from a straight breaker bar, to the latest battery powered impact guns that are on the market. If you can’t remove a wheel, a simple predicament can leave you stranded. It’s also wise to carry several different sizes of sockets so you can have what you need when the time comes.

2. A Jack

This one goes with the lug wrench; a good jack. There are countless uses for a lifting device when you go in the dirt. They are needed to change flat tires, get unstuck, or fixing bent tie rods or suspension links. High-lift jacks are popular because they can do several tasks. Just make sure you know how to use it, and have good jacking points on your vehicle. If you don’t have solid jacking points that mounts to the frame, and also allow clearance around the body panels, you won’t even be able to use one. Good jacking points are heavy duty bumpers, sliders, and the wheel lifting straps available. Other options are manual scissor jacks, and hydraulic floor jacks. If you use a hydraulic floor jack, you will need something to place it on so it doesn’t sink into the dirt. A piece of plywood works, or you can get bolt on bases for this, or even specially made jacks.

3. Shovel

When you go off-road, you will get stuck; it’s inevitable. When you are stuck, it’s because you are impeded by something. That something is either dirt, mud, sand, rocks or snow. You don’t want to be removing any of that by hand. I learned my lesson when I went for a quick little drive in my CJ-7, and slid into a snow bank. I had to remove my license plate to use as a shovel. With a real shovel, I would have been done in 20 minutes. Instead it took hours. A shovel can be used for many other things as well; putting out camp fires, trail repairs, burying a tire for an anchor point, etc. 

4. Jumper Cables

Like flat tires, dead batteries happen a lot. A jump start from or to another vehicle only takes a second if you have cables. If you don’t have them, your options are never good. You should not scrimp when it comes to your jumper cables. There are plenty of cheap cables out there that are not up to the task. Get some good heavy duty cables with copper wire, not aluminum. A good set will last you for years, and be reliable when you need them. Just don’t loan the out. 

5. Bailing Wire and/or Zip Ties

We are hard on our vehicles when we go off road. Things break, they come loose, and they get damaged. You need something that will hold things together until you can make permanent repairs. Zip ties are great, but they fall short when you need to hold up anything that gets hot like exhaust or brakes. Bailing wire is pliable enough to wrap around things, and it fits through bolt holes easily. When you double it up, it’s very strong. 

6. Vise Grips

Vise grips are a valuable tool because they perform many tasks. If you have a damaged bolt or are missing the correct size wrench or socket, vise grips will work. They clamp tight enough to hold things together securely. They can also be used for crimping electrical connectors, or capping brake lines. You can even get special vise grips with smooth jaws for crimping off fuel or brake lines without damaging them.

7. Tow Ropes and Ratchet Straps

Many of us carry a box filled with different tow ropes, and ratchet straps. Tow ropes are for pulling another vehicle. Ratchet straps are for securing things. Chains should be avoided. Chains are heavy for one thing, and they don’t give. Tow ropes are designed to stretch, and don’t release as much energy when they break so they are much safer. Don’t forget to also throw a tree saver strap in your box. Ratchet straps are useful for securing every type of loads. They can be used to hold down a spare tire, or secure a camper in the bed of your truck in an emergency. They are a very useful tool.

8. Fire Extinguisher

I have personally never needed a fire extinguisher, but have saved many people who did. This is one tool that you hope you will never need, but is a must have to carry. You also need to know how to care for your extinguisher. The types that have dry powder in them can settle over time. When you need them, the powder can be clumped in the bottom, and not discharge properly. Make it a habit to inspect your extinguisher before you go out to make sure it’s still charged, and give it a little shake to keep the contents dispersed.

9. A Tarp

A tarp is another item that is handy to have because it has multiple uses. We can’t always control where our vehicle breaks down, or where we will be working on it. Part of being safe in the outdoors is keeping your body free from injury. You only need to experience laying in cholla cactus spikes, sharp rocks, or hot pavement once to realize the necessity of having a good tarp to lie on. It can also be used to keep you dry in the rain, or cool in the sun. You can drape it over your winch line to absorb the energy if it breaks. You can carry water with it. You can use it to wrap up dirty items that have to go inside your vehicle. How many of you have slept inside your truck bed with a shredded tire next to you? A tarp is handy for many things.

10. A Buddy

Two minds are better than one, but so are two trucks, two sets of tools, two jacks, you name it. Traveling alone is something we all do out of necessity, but when it comes to being prepared off-road, you can’t beat having someone else along. When something breaks down, or you experience some other setback, it’s always good to have someone else to throw ideas around, help out with repairs, or just give you a sense of calm that everything will work out. They are also great for re-telling the stories of your great trail fixes and ingenuity used to get back home.   

Build an Off–Road Truck With a $10K Budget

Get the Parts You Want and Need

$10,000 is just the right sum of money that can be stretched a very long way when spent correctly. Think about it—if you’re in the market for a new truck, that $10k can quickly evaporate on dealer upgrade packages that aren’t really worth that much money when it comes down to it. It may buy a good amount of factory ‘premium’ add-ons and accessories, but they might not even be the key items you’d need to work towards building the legit off-road truck you want. Instead, you can take that cash and strategically spend it on quality goods from reputable aftermarket manufacturers who specialize in products that you actually want and need. 

Even if you’re looking to outfit an older truck that you may have had around for a while or have finished making payments on, that same $10,000 will come in clutch with turning things around for the better. It’s cheaper than going out and buying another brand new truck, that’s for sure. So why not invest some money into an older pickup and starting having some off-road fun with it? 

…$10k can quickly evaporate on dealer upgrade packages that aren’t really worth that much money when it comes down to it…

Rolling Attire

Tires

There are a few key categories of parts you’re going to have to start shopping around in if you plan to make a go of transforming your truck into an off-road worthy rig. Right out the gate, you’ll want to address your truck’s tire situation. You’ll want to still steer clear of dealer-upgraded rubber here, as whatever tire they’ll try to sell you will still be geared toward on-road above off-road performance every time. Instead, take a look at tires that are designed to take on dirt, mud, sand, and rocks—all the types of terrain that you’ll be looking to combat while out in the great wide open. Specially designed tread patterns and beefier sidewalls will most definitely be your friends here, and will totally be worth the money you’ll invest in them. 

Wheels

While you can put bigger, better tires on just about any wheel, it’s probably wise to spend some money on a set that is designed to better handle off-road situations. Bead lock equipped wheels will prove to be invaluable when you’re out on the trail as they provide clamping power to maintain the tire seal instead of relying on inflation pressure alone to keep them held onto regular wheels. This is quite an advantage since lower tire pressure is often used to improve traction on rough terrain. Plan on spending a few thousand of your budget on new wheels and tires. Of course, you could spend a lot more on them but that’s all based on your own personal preference and taste. 

Ride Height

Suspension

You can get away with spending minimal money on an entry-level leveling kit here and still be able to fit larger wheels and tires all around, and get the look of an off-road truck. While that may make your rig look the part (kind of), you could (and should) go a step further and look into more complete lift kits that will get both ends of the truck up a few inches higher, thus giving your truck the added ground clearance that is imperative in true off-road situations. While you don’t have to get your truck crazy jacked in the sky or anything, even a 4-inch lift will do. 

Shocks

Whichever way you end up lifting your truck, don’t forget to upgrade the factory shocks with a set designed to take on and handle increased dampening abilities. Even if you think you might need remote-reservoir shocks, invest in them. They can take much more abuse, and a lot of them can be manually adjusted to better fit the specifics of your particular truck. Of course, they cost more than simple upgraded OEM replacements, but are well worth the money. 

Underbody/Rocker Protection

With a truck sitting at a higher than stock altitude, its underbelly becomes more susceptible to damage from debris and other obstacles while bombing the trails. To keep vital parts and systems protected from an unforeseen accident, there are plenty of panels and skid plates available that bolt on and offer peace of mind while you’re out having fun. These aren’t a requirement, however, but a strong recommendation when it comes to defending your rig against the elements. 

Accessories Make the Truck

Lighting

Even if you don’t plan on being out in the middle of nowhere past sundown, upgrading your truck’s headlights to brighter HID/LED output wouldn’t be a bad idea. Heck, while you’re at it, it couldn’t hurt to wire up some bright auxiliary lighting sources as well. LED light bars, spotlights, or any other type of bolt-on light housing will end up getting a lot of use even if you don’t intend to use them often. You’d be surprised at just what kind of pitfall you could avoid with sufficient nighttime illumination in pitch-black visibility.  

Winch

You really don’t ever need a winch until you absolutely need one. Whether it’s your truck that gets stuck, or a buddy’s rig that needs to be pulled out of a sticky situation, you’ll be glad to have a dependable get-out-of-jail pass at your disposal.

Brakes

A proper off-road truck definitely deserves an upgrade or two in the braking category. Larger, heavier wheels and tires can rob your truck’s factory braking system of precious stopping power. Aftermarket rotors and calipers are an easy solution, and if your truck is still equipped with rear drum brakes, converting them to discs will dramatically improve braking abilities.

Performance

HP & Torque

There are a lot of combinations to choose from in this department ranging from simple air intake systems, custom exhaust, digital programmers, and a ton of other products designed to make more power. Pricing and level of skill required for at-home installation vary, so choose wisely and know when it’s best to fork over the extra cash for a pro to handle the install. 

Locking/Limited Slip Differential

You may not think this upgrade is necessary until you experience the struggle to make enough traction firsthand. Installing a locking or limited slip diff will allow for your truck to spin both wheels on an axle, which really comes in handy while keeping or regaining precious momentum on tricky types of terrain. The boost in confidence of where your truck can go after installation will astonish you. 

Mid Travel vs. Long Travel Off-Road Suspension

Which Is Right For You?

Every truck and its owner are different. While that may sound like stating the obvious, it is very much true, and determines the relationship of how someone drives their pickup. Most folks are more than fine with leaving their truck bone stock, and hardly ever venture far from paved roads. Modern trucks are easy to drive, and are often treated as a regular car—with a handy bed that comes in clutch during those sporadic trips to Home Depot. While this picture comes off as being dramatically domesticated, it’s really not that far off from how it really is, except for the truck owners that have a sharp taste for far more action and adventure. 

Now, the type of action we have in mind here is off-road adventure, and what exactly that means to each individual truck owner. While a good percentage of them tend to lean toward the mild side of things (which isn’t a bad thing at all) there are a slimmer number of truck fiends that crave the most capable, unstoppable setup imaginable. Of course, we’re talking about the timeless debate between mid- and long travel truck suspension systems, and what it really means to build and drive them. 

The Deciding Factor(s)

Which is the right one for you? Well, only you can really answer that question. There’s a lot to take into consideration—some are the obvious cost and labor issues, and others may be less glaring and require careful attention. You’ll have to seriously address the pros and cons of how mid- and long travel suspension systems stand to benefit your particular situation and how they could possibly negatively affect you world as well. 

Materials

While there is no real “negative” surrounding either of these suspension upgrades as they are both far superior than factory specs if you plan on doing any type of off-roading—even in the slightest. Mid-travel setups are far more accessible than their long-travel counterparts, as most basic front kits consist of at least an aftermarket uni-ball upper control arm, a quality coilover with reservoir, an upgraded leaf spring pack, axle flip kit, and a reservoir-equipped shock. All are fairly straightforward to install, and all of these components bolt right into place. 

Mid-travel setups are far more accessible than their long-travel counterparts…

On the other end, long travel setups are far more involved as you’re looking at aftermarket upper AND lower uni-ball control arms, an extended axle shaft, tie rod extension, coilovers with reservoir, and strategic weld-in reinforcements in the way of braces/gussets for optimum strength. You’ll see a beefier leaf spring pack here at the rear, which will be placed underneath the axle. This means that bolting on shocks in their factory mounting points will not be possible. You’ll have to get creative here to make it work, whether that means relocating the mounts somewhere else of going right through the bed utilizing a bed cage. Don’t expect things to be as easy as with mid travel setups here, it’s far more work, but there is a larger payout here once the dust settles. 

Cost

Long travel suspensions cost much more to build, obviously, but in more ways than you might think. Aside from the suspension components themselves, you’ll also have to take factory fender panels out of the equation, and think about wider, fiberglass options instead since the width of the front suspension is extended and the rear travel is extended so much over stock. On the bright side, you’ll be able to run comfortably with 35” tires without having to endlessly cut and trim until there’s nothing left of those original fenders anyway. 

Type of Driving

Think of mid travel suspension good for casual trail cruising, some moderate rock climbing, and increased general access to rougher conditions that wouldn’t otherwise be comfortable in a stock truck. You’ll have a lot more options open to you as far as terrain you’ll be able to take on, but take those options and multiply them—that is the true capability of long travel. But is long travel feasible for daily driving duties? Sure, why not? It’s really a personal preference with the additional width up front and all, but it’s just like anything else, you’ll adapt. 

Bottom Line Pros and Cons

Let’s start with mid travel first. You’ll be able to install the suspension components comfortably at home without any specialty skills or tools. The parts involved are fewer and relatively inexpensive, and you’ll still be able to upgrade tire size—think 33s without having to cut/trim fender wells too extensively. While you’ll be able to comfortable drive your truck daily and still have more confidence off-road, you will still be limited to more extreme conditions that only a long travel will be able to handle.

Long travel suspension parts do add up fast and installation isn’t always for the everyday DIY builder at times. You’ll most likely have to do some welding, so if you don’t have this skillset under your belt, you may have to outsource or wrangle a buddy who can help out. Save part of your budget for replacement fender panels, and prepare to lose valuable bed space for that bed cage and probably a spot to throw your spare. Don’t let all those factors stop you from seeing the job through—once everything is done, the off-road landscape will be your oyster. 

…once everything is done, the off-road landscape will be your oyster…

In the end, you’ll have to make the decision of just which scenario is right for you. Are you down for the higher cost and more in-depth installation of the long travel? Is it really worth the extra money and extra headaches? Are you fine with still being able to having more paths opened to you while still being limited to only where long travel-equipped trucks can travel? Weight it all out, sleep on it, talk it over with your better half, and then start building the truck that is right for your own personal situation. 

A Closer Look at the 2021 Ford Bronco

Does the New Model live Up to the Hype?

There’s a lot to be said about the re-release of vehicle models that go on years-long hiatuses. Some will love, like, or downright hate a factory’s new rendition of an old classic. We’ve seen old muscle car nameplates flex once again in recent years, and while the resurrection of the Chevy Blazer did receive some positive attention at the jump, it really doesn’t seem to be making a lasting impression amongst truck and SUV fans as the 2021 Ford Bronco promises to deliver. 

While we could go on a bit longer about why the Blazer didn’t live up to its expectation, we aren’t really here to touch on that. What we are here to do, however, is to examine just how new Ford Bronco stands to live up to the absolute legend that is its past self. While this task seems easy enough to do, it somehow feels a lot like dissecting a modern classic movie remake. Casual or impartial fans will see the new Bronco for what it is without being overly critical than decades-deep Bronco fanatics who will hold Ford directly responsible for not building their favorite truck “like they used to”. 

While this seems like dangerous grounds to be standing on, the Bronco does have a lot going for it, which makes it highly capable of scoring valuable points from across the many categories of admirers across the market. 

Let’s first start by taking the diehard first gen Bronco into consideration. Ford has modeled the 2021 Bronco to look and feel closer to the all-American, more compact Bronco of the 60’s rather than the later, larger OJ era Bronco of the 90’s. Nostalgia sells for a premium these days, and if there’s a specific version of the SUV to base the reboot after, it’s just gotta be this mid century classic. 

Size wise, the new age Bronco is officially on record as a midsize SUV, which is smack dab in the middle of first gen’s compact classification, and the fifth (and last) gen’s fullsize ranking. Now, it is also important to note that all Broncos previous to the 2021 model were offered in 2-door configuration. The new model is being released as a 2-door, as a nod to its heritage, but it is also being made available in a 4-door option now as well to keep up with modern SUV style and convenience. The 4-door will obviously out measure the 5^th gen 2-door, making it large enough to comfortably fit extra passengers or cargo. 

Aside from size, the new Bronco does have quite a bit in common with its predecessor in the looks department as well. A lot of key elements uphold the spirit of the 1^st gen style pioneer. The use of round headlights, a familiar grille design and an option of a soft top or removable hardtop (depending on door configuration) does call back to a time gone by. Maybe the Bronco would have naturally progressed into this updated take of its inaugural design if it had remained in regular production—it’s tough to say. On the other hand, the remodel may have required a necessary hiatus period for the classic adventure orientated SUV to truly be missed and the calls for nostalgic value to be heard and answered. 

Ford will not only introduce one new 2021 Bronco, but multiple Broncos (7 to be exact). From the base model, all the way up to the top of the line ‘First Edition’ edition, which is trimmed and optioned out with the best upgrade packages from the variations ‘below’ it. The wide variety of premium add-ons that will be available will truly separate the Bronco of old with this year’s model. Lots of technology is available from remote start with the entry level model to a 12-inch LCD touchscreen and B&O sound system available starting in the mid-tier Outer Banks trim package. It’s a little unfair to compare the interiors of the new and old Bronco, as the previous truck was a true utility vehicle of its time. The standard then was minimal to say the least, and today’s Bronco definitely brings the SUV up to meet modern conveniences and luxury comforts we have grown accustomed to. 

The 2021 Bronco isn’t just a handsome, renovated shell with some convenient bells and whistles attached, as the base model is equipped with a 2.3L turbocharged 4-banger that boasts 270HP with 310 lb-ft of torque—not too shabby to start. There’s also an optional 2.7L turbo V-6 that’s also available for additional romp. Transmission offerings include a seven-speed manual with a crawler gear standard on the 2.3L, as well as a 10-speed auto that is standard issue on the 2.7L and optional equipment on the smaller engine. These modern power plants most definitely blow the largest of original engine models, the 205HP 4.9L V-8 small block, right off the trail. 

Suspension and smart driving modes also set the new Bronco apart from the old version. To start, the full-boxed steel frame and the IFS system already give the 2021 Bronco a leg up, but then it starts racking up more technical features higher up in the trim level chain. The Go Over Any Terrain (GOAT) package features eight unique driving modes including Normal, Eco, Sport, Slippery, Sand, Baja, Mud/Ruts, and Rock Crawl—enough to satisfy any type of driver in just about any type of off-road condition. 

The anticipation for the 2021 Ford Bronco has been building steadily, and for good reason. It’s been 55 years since the OG Bronco was released, and in that time it has gained a tremendous reputation and devout following. It’s almost unfair to pit the new model against its previous self, given the obvious advantages available to it, but it’s cool to see what the Bronco has evolved into. This is the SUV its fans have been awaiting. For the “purists” who may not be planning to partake in this next generation of Bronco adventure, there’s still no denying the potential this new generation has to becoming a lasting presence in the modern off-road marketplace. 

Are 35 Inch Tires Right for Your Rig?

The number one question people ask about is what size tire will fit my vehicle. Nothing gives your off road vehicle a more aggressive look than larger tires, and custom wheels. Fortunately, larger tires will give you just as much of a performance gain as they do a visual enhancement. One of the most popular tire sizes is a 35 inch tall tire. Depending on your vehicle, 35 inch tires could be a simple bolt on process, or entail several modifications in order to make them fit. If you have an AWD, car based overlander, or small SUV, you might want to try something smaller. On the other hand, a full size truck can allow enough clearance to bolt on 35’s with no issues. 

Automotive designers tend to make the wheel openings tall, but narrow. It probably has to do with aerodynamics. The wind turbulence created by wheel openings affects the coefficient of drag considerably which also reduces fuel mileage. Despite their good intentions, the lack of clearance is a real issue. Modern trucks have plastic fender flares, and side body cladding that can also hamper your efforts to fit larger than standard tires. In the past you could simply get out a saw, and cut the sheet metal away. Most people with new vehicles frown upon this as it is irreversible. Many don’t want to cut into such a large investment; that’s why lift kits are used. Not only do lift kits give additional ground clearance, but they also provide more room for larger tires.  

So why go to all that trouble you may ask? The answer is because your tires are the only thing between you and the dirt. Would you rather hike a trail in a pair of ice skates, or hiking boots? Some of us wouldn’t want to be on ice with ice skates let alone on a trail, but that’s another topic. Once you have increased the width of your tires, the only other way to increase the size of the contact patch is with a larger diameter. The contact patch is the surface area of the tire that directly makes contact with the ground. As the tire gets wider, the contact patch increases in width. As the tire diameter increases, the contact patch also grows in length. Increasing the length of your contact patch can give you much more contact patch on the ground. The size of the contact patch is critical because it provides the grip needed to stop, go, and turn. Increasing the contact patch is the easiest way to get better control. 

So why stop at 35 inches, why not go even bigger? That’s a great question, and the reason is simple. Once your tires reach a certain size, they start to affect other parts of your vehicle. They will put a strain on driveline components, and your gear ratio might not be suitable to allow the engine to operate in the correct RPM range that it needs. The bigger tires may be too much for your steering components as the contact patch creates so much grip. You also need to consider your brakes. You can see that once you start making changes to your vehicle, it creates a huge snowball rolling downhill. You will end up spending thousands of dollars, and entirely re-engineering your vehicle. That’s why tires in the range of 32 to 35 inches are popular upgrades. They can be made to work without too much disturbance of your factory systems. Some people have trail only vehicles, but most of us also want to drive on the street, or commute to work.

A 35 inch tall tire is still a big tire. It will affect your final drive ratio, and your braking, but many people will gladly accept that for the increase in traction. There is a camp that typically drives in muddy conditions who like tall narrow tires. They contend that the skinny tire cuts through the mud, and gets down to firm earth where there is traction. This only works if there is a bottom to the mud. If the mud is deeper than the distance between the surface of the mud, and your truck’s frame or the body, then you are likely to get stuck. A wider tire will provide flotation. Instead of cutting into the mud, it will resist sinking in; allowing the vehicle to remain on top. As many people know, and all will find out, mud doesn’t care either way. You can get stuck using a skinny, or a wide tire. The skinny tire concept is somewhat specialized. It doesn’t work on wet roads, or sand. That’s why most people prefer a wider tire. 

Personally, I like the way my vehicles handle with a large, wide tire. It feels much more stable to me, and it helps to build confidence when in certain off camber, or loose conditions. A larger tire also comes in handy when you are traversing ruts. Most of the time, it’s much better to roll over the ruts, than to fall into them. If you are driving the same direction as the ruts, you may only have an inch of tire still riding on the top edge, and that’s all it takes to stay on top. The same goes for washouts, or obstacles. When you come up to an obstacle that needs to be scaled, a taller tire will roll over it much easier than a shorter tire. The shorter tire will need to climb up the obstacle while the taller tire will have more of a tendency to roll over it. 

So you see, there is a reason why 35 inch tall tires are so popular. For most vehicles, they give you as much performance as possible without negatively impacting your vehicle. Like all modifications, you need to weigh the positives with the negatives. Most people will agree after weighing the options that installing 35 inch tall tires on your rig will give it the performance you want in the dirt, and set you apart from all the stock trucks out there.            

A Definitive Guide To 37, 38, And 40 Inch Tires

The number one question from 4×4 owners is what size tire fits on my rig. Designers used to leave some room in the wheel wells of most trucks; if you have an older model you can probably go up in size with just a little sheet metal trimming. On a 1990’s Ford F series for instance, 37’s will fit with no trimming needed. On newer vehicles they closed things up in order to provide better aerodynamics (less turbulence), around the wheel wells. This limits how large a tire you can run without a lift, or sheet metal trimming, and cut-out fender flares. Since it now takes much more effort to run bigger tires, why do so many truck owners run them, and what’s the difference between 37’s, or 38’s, and even 40 inch tires? For many people, they say the bigger the better.

Looks aside, your tires are the only thing between you and the ground — if you’re doing it right.

Most of us who modify our vehicles are concerned with function, but we also care about aesthetics. You wouldn’t purchase an expensive truck if you didn’t care about how it looks. There are also many who fall into the category of “form follows function,” who don’t necessarily prefer shiny paint, and chrome. These people still want their truck to look like it performs. Nobody wants to drive a silly looking truck, or one that looks like a pile. I’m not talking about patina. It shows that the vehicle is weathered, and probably has a few stories to tell. Patina is cool, but rusted out garbage is not. Despite which camp you fall into, when you see big tires on a 4×4, it makes the truck look amazing, and capable at the same time. You picture it climbing over rocks, and ruts, or anything else for that matter. 

Looks aside, your tires are the only thing between you and the ground — if you’re doing it right. Your tires might provide the appearance you’re after, but they are also vitally important to how your vehicle performs. Traction gets you through all types of terrain; mud, sand, snow, etc., but it’s also very important for stopping and steering. I’m sure some have been in the situation where you are hard on the throttle with the wheels turned, but the truck just goes straight. This can be anything from an annoyance, to a life threatening occurrence. All of a sudden, stopping becomes the number one priority. The bottom line is that your tires are important, and there are several reasons why bigger tires are better. 

It doesn’t matter how high the body is if your differential cover is excavating a trench.

First let’s talk about minimum ground clearance. The word minimum is important here. You can jack your truck up with 12 inches of lift if you want. That will get the body and frame high enough off the ground to clear a lot of obstacles. The problem is that the minimum ground clearance is between the differentials, and the ground. It doesn’t matter how high the body is if your differential cover is excavating a trench.

Eventually you will get hung up on something or high centered on the diff. If you are running independent suspension with four wheel drive you may have more ground clearance at the pumpkin, but your a-arms, traction beams, or uprights are still going to be in harm’s way. There are only 2 solutions for increasing the minimum ground clearance on your vehicle; running exotic planetary, or portal gears on each wheel, or taller tires.

Taller tires are the easier solution. Planetary gears attach to the housing ends on a straight axle, or are built into the suspension upright or spindle on an a-arm type suspension. You can gain several inches of minimum ground clearance this way but it causes other problems like a redesign of your steering linkage. They can also cause severe axle wrap on leaf spring suspensions. I’m not trying to dissuade you from going this route because portals are very cool, and functional, but you better have deep pockets, or your own machine shop and cad design program in order for it to be feasible. Just buy the taller tires.

There is also one other benefit of larger diameter tires, and that’s contact patch. The contact patch is the amount of tire rubber making contact with the ground. As the tire gets bigger in diameter, the contact patch grows. This has nothing to do with tire width; it’s more a product of circumference. The wider the tire, the greater the contact patch is in a let’s say east, west direction. The bigger diameter tire you have, the bigger the contact patch is in a north, south direction; or front to back if you’re looking at your rig. If your truck came with 31 inch tires from the factory, and you made the necessary changes to run 37’s, your contact patch would grow proportionately. Even more with a 40 inch tire. When you also increase the width, your performance can increase substantially. That means steering, and braking are also enhanced. 

Now you might suspect that there is a down side to running bigger rubber, and you would be right. You only need to know Newton’s Third Law of Motion to figure out that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Pushing those bigger tires down the road will negatively affect your fuel mileage. It will also require more torque to turn them. This creates a chain reaction that may have you modifying your entire drive line.

Axles, CV joints, drive shafts, gear sets, even your automatic transmission or clutch, if you have a manual gearbox, might have to be upgraded. But wait, there’s more. Once the outside diameter of your tires has increased, your brakes might not be up to the task. The greater circumference has to be taken into account. All the gains in braking control from an increase in contact patch might be negated if your brakes can’t stop you. Last but not least, you turning radius will also increase. That gets you closer to the edge of the trail when you’re doing a 3 point turn with no brakes. 

Before you freak out and give up on running 37 or 40 inch tires, just know that there are solutions to all the down sides. Your axles may hold up fine to bigger rubber. You may be able to do a gear swap in your differentials to bring your final drive ratio back to what it was. Bigger brakes are almost always a great enhancement to any rig. The bottom line is that 37, 38, or 40 inch tires are worth an investment in your rig to run them. They will take you places that people with smaller tires may never get to. Your rig will be much more capable when the terrain gets challenging.

Hennessey’s Supercharged Mammoth 1000 RAM TRX Makes Over 1000HP

Jan 20, 2020 – Hennessey Performance Engineering (HPE) is known widely for taking performance vehicles and taking them to the next level, as seen in the Velociraptor Bronco. So once they got a hold of the new 2021 RAM TRX, they went to town and came up with the limited-edition Hennessy Mammoth 1000 TRX.

This high performance pickup comes from the factory with a supercharged 6.2L V8 rated at 702BHP and 650lb-ft of torque, which is quite impressive, but obviously not impressive enough for the mad scientists at Hennessey. In a direct quote from John Hennessey himself, “The RAM 1500 TRX is exciting in stock configuration, but I’m seeking extraordinary,”. And extraordinary is what they made. With the addition of an upgraded supercharger, headers, and high-flow exhaust to name a few, the RAM TRX is boosted to over 1000hp(hence the Mammoth 1000 name if it wasn’t obvious enough) and 650lb-ft of torque. Along with the beefed up powertrain, you get a 2.5″ lift kit, custom front bumper with a built in light bar, Hennessey wheels, 35″ off-road tires, and a suspension level; all part of the MAMMOTH OFF-ROAD STAGE 1 package.

If you want to get your hands on one of these: good luck. There will only be 200 of the Mammoth 1000s made, each carrying its own serialized badge, and comes with a price tag of $135,350. RAM TRX included. But without a doubt, the Hennessey Mammoth 1000 RAM TRX is sure to be a beast off the road.

All-Terrain Tires vs. Mud-Terrain Tires

Consumers have a massive amount of options to choose from when it comes to tires. Going beyond the aesthetics of the tires and breaking down the performance, which is better, an all-terrain tire or a mud-terrain tire?

All-terrain (A/T) tires are designed to cover the most amount of terrains including where the vehicle is most commonly at, on pavement. Able to give decent traction on dirt roads and light snow while still coming with mileage warranties, road hazard warranties, smooth rides and general flexibility.

Mud-terrain (M/T) tires were once used nearly exclusively for mud, deep sand or heavy snow. Now, technology has allowed them to expand further and they are widely used in nearly all forms of off-road and many companies have shifted to naming them Maximum-Traction tires.

There has been a gap between the two, however. In recent years, a new option has become more readily available. Hybrid-terrain (or aggressive all-terrain) tires strive to blend A/Ts and M/Ts for a performance minded consumer that still wants the mileage warranty and good road manners of an A/T while getting more traction like an M/T.

All-Terrain Tires

There are many different off-road terrains out there and many of the vehicles that traverse them also spend the majority of their time on the highways and surface streets going about daily life. “Our philosophy with an A/T is something that’s got a broad range of sizes because this is where most of the light-truck market is at.” Explained Martin Castro, Events and Activation Manager for Milestar Tires. “You need to have confidence in things like mileage warranty, 30-day ride guarantee with our Patagonia AT-R, road hazard assurances and having the peace of mind of having the right load rated tires.”

A/Ts will not be amazing performers on extreme or harsh terrains. The tightly spaced lugs and harder compounds work phenomenal on roads, hardpack dirt, and snowy road conditions but they will not grab rocks or sling/float on mud and soft sand the same way M/Ts do.

Good A/Ts come with 40,000+ mile warranties, staggered tread blocks with zig zag sipping to clear debris and water quickly, maintaining better contact with the road. Many of them also carry the Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake symbol which means it was been independently tested and approved for severe snow conditions.

Mud-Terrain/Maximum-Traction Tires

M/Ts are often the gold-standard of off-road performance. Huge lugs with high void tread designs for debris to be cleared, grippy rubber compounds with extra blocks on the sidewalls for airing down. The wide footprint lends itself well to floating on top of mud and sand, and the specifically designed lugs grab and scoop soft terrain or grab tightly to rocks.

M/Ts are, however, durable beasts.

Where M/Ts lack is longevity. The slightly softer compound and extreme use means they just don’t last as long as A/Ts, especially on highways. They tend to be louder due to the high voids trapping air beneath them and often require more frequent rotations to different positions on the vehicle to keep them properly worn.

M/Ts are, however, durable beasts. Able to take a hit far better, tires like the Milestar Patagonia M/T feature a 3-ply sidewall that provides added strength and impact protection. Many M/Ts have smaller portions designed into the bottom of the voids that act as stone ejectors, helping to keep those areas clear and able to grab more terrain. “M/Ts need to have really good traction in extreme terrains.” Said Martin. “Snow wheeling is a huge part of yearly vehicle use for many people, both for fun and necessity so the M/T has to have great floatation and act like a snowshoe on the snow or sand by dispersing the load out.”

Hybrid-Terrain Tires

Hybrid-terrain tires target the best of what A/Ts and M/Ts have to offer. Larger lugs and voids than a standard A/T, stronger sidewalls and extra shoulder blocks while maintaining all-weather road performance and a Three-Peak rating.

“The hybrid-terrain is the evolution of the standard A/T.” Martin explains. “On the Milestar Patagonia X/T, we have combined the strength of the 3-ply side wall and rugged tread blocks on Maximum-Traction tires with the all-weather traction, longevity and smoother ride of All-Terrain tires.”

A good hybrid tire is designed to be aggressive in some areas and tame in others. Expertly designed tread patterns allow for hybrids to gain more traction by stepping up the block and void sizes without severely compromising ride quality, wet traction and mileage expectations. One of the ways Milestar does this is by using a variable pitch tread pattern that alternates the pitch sequence, staggering them in just the right way that produces a quieter ride.

Keep in mind though that hybrid tires are still a hybrid. A middle ground between two ends of a spectrum. They likely will not out perform a M/T on rocks or in mud and most likely wont beat a mild A/T on the street.

The Final Decision

The final decision is up to you. The fact is, most vehicles that are used off-road end up with far many more on-road miles than they do off-road. Every vehicle and every driver are going to have different requirements, even as simple as looks will have an affect on your final choice. As an enthusiast, you’ll need to decide whether you want some performance with lots of on-road benefits, high off-road performance that sacrifices longevity and ride or a blend between the two.

Audi Returns to Rally Racing

Competing in Dakar 2022 With Electric-Drive Platform

December 10, 2020 – For the first time ever, Audi will be competing in the famous Dakar Rally in 2022 with an innovative prototype vehicle. Utilizing an electric drivetrain powered by a high-voltage battery paired with an efficient energy converter, Audi plans to spearhead a future for the company in cross-country rallying motorsport.

Once a trailblazer in the rally world with their Quattro sub brand, Audi plans to make a triumphant return to the scene bringing a factory team back to the dirt stages. And what better way to start than with one of the most extreme and dangerous rally races out there. Audi plans to use their new electric drive system that charges the high voltage battery while driving. The Dakar Rally’s tough conditions and demand for endurance became the perfect test for the platform. Audi hopes to showcase the durability of their new electric-drive platform and once again become an icon in the rally world and lay the groundwork for developing the platform for production use.

Entry Level Ford Raptor?
Ford Announces the F-150 Tremor

December 15, 2020 – Adding to its increasing lineup of off-road capable vehicles, Ford is introducing the all-new F-150 Tremor. Meant to be a bridge between workhorse and trail beast, the F-150 Tremor features all-terrain upgrades with all of the towing and payload capability you’d expect from an F-150. This new model is designed for those looking to hit the trails and tackle rocky and muddy backroads while providing the features required to be a solid and reliable work truck.

The Ford Tremor is powered by a 3.5 liter EcoBoost V6 engine paired with a 10-speed automatic transmission, all together powering a four-wheel drive system. The Tremor is raised slightly for improved ground clearance compared to the standard F-150, and has upgraded suspension with retuned springs all around, specifically designed monotube shocks in the front and twin tube shocks in the rear that are tuned softer at low speeds. An upgrade to a Torsen limited slip differential is available as well as a torque-on-demand transfer case similar to the one available in the the F-150 Raptor. Along with the 33″ General Grabber all-terrain tires that come standard on all Tremors, this truck ready to tackle trails right out of the box.

More of the Raptor is seen in the exterior design which has been beefed up all around. The hood has a more aggressive design matched with a mean-mugging front end. Raptor-inspired off-road running boards line the sides of the truck and are built to take a beating. The bash plate is also taken from the Raptor, and the rear features a cutout bumper with dual exhaust and recovery hooks giving it an approach angle of 27.6 degrees and a departure angle of 24.3 degrees.

Adding to it’s offroad capabilities, the F0rd F-150 Tremor comes selectable terrain specific suspension settings, “Trail Control” which is basically like cruise control for the dirt, 360 degree camera to see obstacles on the trail, and an optional recovery tool set for when those obstacles get the best of you. And with its 10,900 lb payload capacity, anything you need comes along for the ride as well. The new F-150 Tremor is truly the best of both worlds; a workhorse for the weekdays and trail beast for the weekend.

Toyota Land Cruiser: Born From War

The history of the American Jeep is well known. Used by soldiers in World War II, it earned a reputation for toughness that endures today. Many will be surprised to learn that the Toyota Land Cruiser has a similar pedigree. During the war, an American Bantam Mk II was captured in the Philippines, and sent to Japan. The military ordered Toyota to reverse engineer it and they came up with the AK model. It was purposely designed to look differently than the Bantam. The Japanese Imperial Army named it the Yon-Shiki Kogata Kamotsu-Sha (type 4 compact cargo-truck). The AK was made in few numbers, and rare photos exist of them in action. In 1942, the AK10 came along. It also used reverse engineering from the Bantam and this time was much closer in looks to the Bantam.

In 1950, Japan was still occupied by US forces after it surrendered in 1945; ending World War II. The goal of US occupation was to create political stability and spur economic growth. When a new conflict began on the Korean Peninsula, US forces looked for military vehicles that could be produced in Japan. The AK design was further refined into the model BJ. It was the BJ that later became the Land Cruiser. The BJ was called the Toyota Jeep. It looked similar to the Willys design with its vertical grille bars, flat fenders, and boxy shape. The Jeep name was a registered trademark of Willys-Overland, so Toyota apologized for the use, and dropped the name. It became simply the model BJ with many conjecturing that the J was for Jeep; although that has never been substantiated.

The Jeep name was a registered trademark of Willys-Overland, so Toyota apologized for the use, and dropped the name.

Toyota was building trucks long before World War II. They had parts and tooling available that could be adapted to the new military vehicle. The chassis of the BJ came from Toyota’s model SB one-ton truck. The same truck donated its rear axle to the BJ. The SB rear axle was modified as a steering axle, and adapted for use in the front. The model SB had only a 995cc (60.7 cubic inch) 4 cylinder engine which would not suffice, so they dropped in the type B 3389cc (206.8 cubic inch) six-cylinder engine that produced 85 horsepower and 156 lb-ft. of torque. The BJ was offered in five configurations; touring liaison, two pickup truck variations, a mobile communication truck, and outfitted for firefighting.   

The Toyota BJ was built and subjected to several tough trials that included climbing to the 6th station of Mount Fuji, a feat that had never been done before. Despite the impressive demonstrations, the initial design was rejected. The contract was awarded instead to a Mitsubishi-built Willys-Overland. Undaunted by the first rejection, Toyota went after utility companies, and other fleet operators. After continued development, the BJ was adopted by the Japanese National Police Agency in 1953.

In 1954, the name Land Cruiser was adopted. Then in November of 1955, Toyota created the Model BJ25. It was a complete redesign of the Model BJ Land Cruiser. They also introduced the FJ25 that used the F engine. The original BJ was intended to be a military vehicle. The new BJ, and FJ Land Cruisers were targeted towards the general public. Toyota shortened the wheelbase for better maneuverability. Also intended to be more user friendly, the truck’s transmissions were equipped with syncromesh. The interior dimensions were increased, and the suspension was revised to provide a smoother ride. Gone were the crude one-ton truck parts that were originally used on the BJ model.

The truck became a world-wide success. In 1955, Toyota was exporting to 14 countries. Of those exports, 98 were Land Cruisers. The following year those numbers expanded to 518 Land Cruisers sent to 35 countries, and in 1957 2,502 Land Cruisers were sent to 47 countries around the world. The list of countries included the United States. One single Land Cruiser was sold in the states in 1957, but the humble beginnings would later develop into a huge market. US sales in 1960 had grown to 162 trucks. By 1987 the US numbers were an impressive 8,858 units sold. Toyota production worldwide had reached over 1.1 million trucks.

Several styles of truck all shared the Land Cruiser name. Foremost was the FJ40 which was so good, it remained basically unchanged from 1960 to 1984. The long wheelbase FJ40 evolved into a new design; the FJ55. Built with typical Toyota quality, the FJ55 was a wagon, but still had a fully boxed frame, and excellent suspension for offroad use. It could comfortably cruise at 80 miles per hour on the highway. Over the years, the Land Cruiser wagon morphed into several models, but sadly FJ40 production ceased in 1984. It was replaced by the FJ70 that was never imported into the United States.

In 2003, a retro looking mid-sized SUV was unveiled by Toyota as a concept car at the North American International Auto Show. The FJ Cruiser took design ques from the FJ40, but departed heavily from the original design. Gone was the straight axle front end (and the unique feature of having both front, and rear pumpkins on the same side which allowed you to dodge rocks). The basic utilitarian vehicle had grown into a bloated monster that was difficult to see out of. It was popular with a new group of owners, but did not resound with the traditional FJ40 enthusiast. Original FJ40’s and their FJ55 cousins demand high prices on the used market. Several companies exist that restore originals, or will build a new one from scratch. Either option will cost you 6 figures.     

Does Tire Compound Even Matter?

For many people, the only thing they demand from their tires is that they hold air. They don’t know anything about tire construction, the materials used, or attributes of different tread designs. When it comes time to buy, they believe all tires are the same. They choose the cheapest they can find, or insist on the brand they are most familiar with. “Dad always ran brand x tires, so I will run those too. Dad knows what’s best”. These people are notorious for abusing their tires more than the guy down the street who can’t stop doing burnouts.

I’m sure you’ve had to roll down your window in traffic, or mention to someone in a parking lot that their tire is under-inflated, or sometimes even flat. For those people, the exhaustive work of technicians, test drivers, and product development engineers goes pretty much unappreciated. They purchase tires only when they absolutely have to.

On the other end of the spectrum are the enthusiasts who are pushing the limits of their vehicles on a regular basis. If you find one of them with a low tire, it’s because they set it there. They have all kinds of fancy gizmos to air their tires down for maximum footprint, and increase traction, and then to pump them back up again. They bring their own compressors along, and some even have on board air systems with storage tanks, and other accessories. They use that compressed air for obnoxious train horns, to blow dust or dirt out of their rig, or to pressurize a water tank for a trailside shower. Compressed air can really come in handy.

Then there is TPMS; Tire Pressure Monitoring System. From a gauge on the dash a driver can tell nearly exactly how much air pressure they have in each tire (even the spare on the rack) in real time, while they’re driving. It’s much easier to go online and argue whether 10 pounds is the best pressure to run on the rocks, or if 11.5 pounds works better in the sand when you know exactly how much pressure you are running.

The enthusiasts are the ones who delve into the fine details that make up a tire. They know the difference between a bias ply tire, and a radial; how steel belts vary from polyester, nylon or rayon cords. They understand the tire engineer’s lingo of rock ejectors, tread squirm, high void, staggered blocks, siping, etc. Ask the average person on the street what a tire bead is, and they will just look at you puzzled. Anyone who has ever built a beadlock wheel knows what it is, and that the shape, and thickness is critical to getting a good seal on the wheel.

It’s true that many off-road enthusiasts know quite a bit about tires. They might even know what size tire fits which truck, and what the proper wheel offset is in order to clear the fenders without trimming (the number one asked question on the internet). However, not a whole lot of tire buyers think about the rubber compound used. That information doesn’t show up on websites, in brochures, or in the carefully polished sales pitch from the guy at the tire store. Is it important? Why does it matter?

I can tell you from first-hand experience that the rubber compound used is just as important as any other component of a tire. A friend of mine showed up for a trip we took (way back in the 1980’s actually), with a brand new set of tires. We drove out to the mountains on the pavement, ran some trails, and then did a high speed bomb run down some graded fire roads. Once we got back to the pavement for the trip home, we noticed his tires were literally shredded. He had deep slices in the tread blocks and several chunks missing from the tread. He did not know that the tires he bought had a very soft compound. Although they were new, they got torn up from wheel spin on the rocky fire roads. The tread compound was way too soft for the sharp rocks.

Those tires were perfect for mud, sand, or slick rock, but not suited for sharp rocks. Those tires were too soft, but your tires can also be too hard. At the same time that my friend bought those super soft tires, I had military take offs on my Jeep. They had a very aggressive tread design, and were very tough. The compound on those tires was very hard because they were designed to last a long time. They worked great when they could dig into the ground, but on slick, or smooth surfaces they were junk. In cold temperatures they got hard as a rock. They were bias plies so they rode rough as hell.

Those are two examples of tread compound from both extremes; too hard, and too soft. So what’s the perfect tread compound? That depends on what you need. Tire engineers have to weigh a lot of variables when they make this determination. Usually a tire will be configured for the street, part street, and part off-road, or mostly off road. Of course there is also a choice for off road only; The Milestar Patagonia M/T “Black Label” is super soft by design.

It’s for people who want maximum traction above all else. If you compare the Patagonia A/T R, with the Patagonia M/T you will notice right away that they look differently. The tread pattern of each tire is suited for their intended uses. The A/T R is designed more for the street, than the dirt. It will still perform in the dirt, but is rated higher than the M/T in ride comfort, and mileage. Obviously, if you are driving long distances on the pavement to get to the trail, tread wear is important.

The A/T R comes with a 50K tread wear warranty plan. The tread pattern itself helps to increase mileage by having smaller voids, but the tread compound also makes a big difference. The tread compound of the M/T is softer, and when I say softer I mean more flexible. Engineers can measure how soft the rubber is using a gauge that’s called a Durometer; the firmer the rubber, the higher the number. Which tread design and tread compound you choose depends on what your needs, and desires are. If you want better tread life, go with the A/T R. If you spend most of your time in the dirt, go with the M/T. If you still want more, choose the “Black Label” for the ultimate in traction. 

Will the Tesla Cybertruck Keep Up Off-Road?

Elon Musk created a stir when he announced the launch of his latest vehicle; the Tesla Cybertruck. The fully electric powered vehicle has a bed out back, and can be had with up to three motors on an all-wheel drive platform. Its unique shape comes from the physical limitations encountered while forming the body panels. The 1/8th inch thick 30X Cold-Rolled stainless-steel structural skin cannot be stamped like conventional car bodies; only bent in straight lines.

The Tesla truck concept has some definite potential for off road travel. The electric motors create incredible torque, and smooth power delivery to the wheels. The towing capacity is as high as 14 thousand pounds, and it has a range of 500 miles on the triple motored configuration. The location of the batteries, low in the chassis, keeps the center of gravity down where you want it when on side hills, or steep inclines. The water fording capabilities could be astounding. With the ability to deliver enough electric power to run tools, it would be an incredible asset to search, and rescue operations, and for remote building sites. The question is if it’s a capable off roader, or a scissor lift with a sexy body on it? The vehicle weight is estimated by some to be around 10 thousand pounds. With an advertised ground clearance of 16 inches, it looks to be capable of going off road, but it seems more suited for the overflow lot at the golf course than racing in the Baja 1000 as touted.

It would be amazing if the engineers at Tesla could do some Nye Frank, outer space, no holds barred type of breakthrough design work on the Cybertruck, and to be fair, maybe that’s in the works. At first glance though, it looks just like your typical soccer Mom SUV.\

…it seems more suited for the overflow lot at the golf course than racing in the Baja 1000 as touted.

The flat bottom of the Cybertruck is perfect for rock crawling, how about a more off road capable option with portal axles, and larger tires? The instant torque would require beefy components, but just think of the slow crawl speeds it could maintain. I wouldn’t worry about the break over angle with the long wheel base as much with such a flat belly pan underneath.

Regenerative braking already exists; how about regenerative suspension cycling? If they are racing it in the Baja 1000, the San Felipe section alone should be more than capable of topping off the batteries with power to spare. The air ride suspension sounds interesting, but one drawback to air is that it expands when it gets hot. Air shocks become pogo sticks when subjected to rough terrain at speed; is the same true for the air ride suspension on the Cybertruck?

A PTO option seems simple to incorporate into one of the electric motors so that winching would be possible. You have to consider a recovery at some point, and with the estimated weight, you would need a crane to get it out if you ran into trouble. That brings up another shortcoming, the lack of recovery points, and the inability to mount much of anything to the truck.

The question is if [the Cybertruck is] a capable off roader, or a scissor lift with a sexy body on it?

Where is the spare tire, or tires? The LED lights in the front look sleek, but how effective would they be once you got off the pavement? Here’s an idea, why not have some strategically placed nutserts on the body so that modular components could be fitted like lights, cargo racks, or additional gear? We saw the awkward introduction to the unbreakable, breakable windows; do they roll down? What do you do at the drive through?

It’s easy to be critical of a new design; especially a concept like the Cybertruck, but I would think that the same man that is able to put rockets into space could build something that pushes the envelope, and takes more advantage of existing off road technology. Let’s hope they continue to refine the design into something truly innovative.

Long Wheelbase and Short, The Pros, and Cons.

I’ll cut to the chase right now, there is no “winner” when it comes to the debate over short wheelbase or long; they are two separate things like apples and oranges. Instead we can talk about their strengths and weaknesses. Your local trail might have rocks, or mud, or sand on the same trail. Unless your area offers only one single type of terrain, you will have to make a choice which is better for your particular likes, and dislikes. We can look at data, but in the end, it will come down to your own opinion which works best for you. 

“The FORD’s wheelbase is, wait for it, 168.4 inches. That’s over twice as long as the Jeep.”

Since we are in the realm of opinion, I will offer mine. I come by my opinion after owning both long and short wheelbase 4×4’s, and wheeling them in varied terrain. The first 4 wheel drive I ever owned was a 1984 Jeep CJ7 which I bought new off the lot. It had the 258 inline 6, and a manual 4 speed transmission. I was living, and wheeling in the mountains, so for self-preservation I kept it low to the ground. I had an add a leaf in each spring, and extended shackles. The minimum lift was to clear the 36 inch tall Goodyear Wrangler R/T tires. Out of my group, I was the only truck not to end up on its lid, so I was doing something right. The Jeeps wheelbase was 83.5 inches.

My long wheelbase truck is the one I currently own. It’s a 1992 FORD F350 4×4 crew cab. Yes, it’s a beast. I’ve installed a shackle reversal kit in the front to improve the ride quality which lifts the truck about 5 inches. The front kit also uses longer superduty length leaf springs, and custom Atlas springs in the rear level the truck and further improve the handling. It rides on 37 inch tall tires. With the longer wheelbase, additional height is not as much as a concern. I have a classic Warn winch bumper on front with an original Warn M10000 winch that has only been used to winch a fallen tree on my neighbor’s property, and other trucks that have gotten stuck. I have never been stuck in this truck so far, (I’ve owned it for 6 years). The FORD’s wheelbase is, wait for it, 168.4 inches. That’s over twice as long as the Jeep.

“There are places where the long wheelbase just will not fit. In more open terrain, the long wheelbase can hold its own.”

Now that I have quantified my bonafides, let’s get into the meat of the subject. One thing I really liked about the Jeep had nothing to do with performance, but it rates mentioning. Between the 36 inch tires, and 3” diameter side bars, those jerks that open their door into yours in the parking lot were entirely inconsequential. They hit either rubber, or steel. Door dings or paint chipping was not even possible. The big FORD has a mile of sheet metal that gets dinged all the time. The truck is big, and parking stalls get smaller all the time.

When I owned the Jeep I was either hitting local trails in the Santa Cruz Mountains, or spending time out at the Hollister Hills OHV Park. Hollister had an obstacle course that included a tire pit. The tire pit was instant doom for the short wheelbase. The front tires would kick those loose tires right up into the back axle; wedging them between the tires, and the frame. Most of you won’t find a tire pit out on the trail, but the same goes for branches, or any other unsecure flotsam you might find. The short wheelbase means both front and rear axles will be in the same situation.

If it’s rocky, both will be in the rocks. The same is true for mud or loose sand. With the longer wheelbase, the front and rear axles can be in different time zones. While the front tires are clawing through a mud hole, the rear tires can be getting excellent traction in drier or less slippery conditions. For pure traction, I give the advantage to the longer wheelbase. One thing that beats the long wheelbase is that the shorter wheelbase is so much more maneuverable. You can fit it in tighter spots which might allow you to avoid the hazard all together. When it comes to hill climbing, the same maneuverability of the short wheelbase can cause problems. Backing down a hill is much more challenging because slight inputs to the steering wheel will cause the rear end to change direction abruptly. On the other hand, during a failed attempt you might be able to whip the Jeep around, and drive straight down the hill. That would just not be possible in the big FORD. Some say that the long wheelbase has an advantage during side-hilling, but I will give put that in the toss up category. The long wheelbase has the greater risk of getting high centered. I have found that the traction advantage, and the fact that you can usually rock the truck back and forth until you get traction makes it easier to get back on your wheels with the long wheelbase. If you do get high centered with a short wheelbase, you are generally screwed. It’s a good chance that both axles will be off the ground. 

When it comes to tight trails, the short wheelbase wins hands down. There are places where the long wheelbase just will not fit. In more open terrain, the long wheelbase can hold its own. Based on pure performance it’s a matter of preference, but you also have to consider utility. One of the biggest drawbacks of the short wheelbase rig is limited cargo room. It’s easy to take some of the capabilities away if you add a roof top rack, or tons of weight hanging off the back because there is no room inside the vehicle. You have much more room to place your gear down low, and between the axles in the bigger truck.

If you are towing, it’s no contest. My FORD will tow anything, and you won’t be able to tell it’s back there. The same goes for ride quality. The short wheelbase and short body means that the leaf springs or suspension links will also be short. The result is less wheel travel, and a choppy ride. The big truck rides surprisingly well after the leaf spring upgrades. The limiting factor is the weight capacity. A certain amount of spring rate is necessary if you want to tow, or carry a slide in camper. You see, the two are really not the same. There is a solution available that will give you the best of both. Tow your Jeep behind your big truck on a trailer. 

Safari 911: Are Porsche’s More Fun Off-Road?

When most people hear the word Porsche they usually think of the 911, even though the first cars were designated the 356. The 356 hit production in 1948, and ran until 1965. Interestingly, the 911 which would replace the 356 was launched 2 years earlier in 1963. Despite the difference in model designation, the outside envelope and drivetrain configuration of both cars were very close. The familiar shape and mechanical layout conceived by the car’s designer, Ferdinand “Ferry” Porsche are still in use today. The 2020 Porsche Taycan is an all-electric sports car that still resembles the familiar 911 shape. The 911 is an icon, and people don’t like anyone messing with an icon. The 911’s original air cooled engine design was so coveted by enthusiasts that there was much controversy when it was retired in 1998 to be replaced with more conventional water cooling. I wonder if the Taycan has the battery bank laid out in a “flat six” configuration.

Most people drive their Porsches on the street. Although the 911 was known for simplicity, and driving pleasure, they were still luxurious, and rather expensive. They were out of reach for many. That fact created envy, and also spawned the Porsche snob. It’s easy to be a snob when you are so successful. Racing on pavement, Porsche has earned an impressive 19 overall wins at Le Mans to go with over 50 class wins. They also have endurance wins including 18 at the 12 Hours of Sebring, and another 18 at the 24 hours of Daytona. They have won the FIA World Endurance Championship three times, and own 12 manufacturer, and team titles in the World Sportscar Championship.

While no Porsche snob in their right mind would get their prized 911 muddy, there were those who were quite successful competing in the dirt; including the factory. While some wanted luxury and status, the cars durability and performance made them perfect for rally, hill climb, and offroad competition. Off the pavement, Porsche has four Monte Carlo rally titles, and a couple of Dakar Rally wins. The exotic all-wheel drive Porsche 959 was originally developed to compete in Group B rally competition but was never realized due to the cars cost. The 959 did however take 1st, and 2nd place at the Paris-Dakar rally in 1986. Porsche already won the Paris-Dakar rally in 1984 with a 911 RS/SC 4×4. The win in 1986 was with the same driver, Rene Metge in one of the two 959 models entered.

If you wanted to run a rally today, you would probably contact the Tuthill Porsche team. They outfit Porsche 911’s for rally competition. In 2013, they built 17 vintage 911’s for the East African Safari Classic Rally in Mombasa. 15 of the 17 cars finished the grueling rally. A Safari 911 that you need to check out belongs to Kelly-Moss Road and Race Director of Operations, Andy Kilcoyne. His 911 is extensively modified for the dirt.

So are these 911 Safari builds just to thumb their noses towards Porsche purists, or are they legitimate offroad performers? Certainly Porsche’s own success in the dirt would demonstrate that the latter is the case. Surprisingly, one of the 911’s greatest weaknesses on pavement makes the car superlative in the dirt; Trailing Throttle Oversteer. Those three words strike fear into 99 percent of Porsche 911 owners. Because the engine is mounted in the rear, the back end of the car outweighs the front. The ratio for the 911 varies from 58 to 60 percent of weight on the rear wheels. The most extreme case was the 1979 930 turbo. It had 63.8 percent of the weight in the back end. When you cut the throttle sharply on a rear engine car, the heavy rear end can act like a pendulum. The back end will come around, and cause uncontrollable oversteer. Uncontrolled Trailing Throttle Oversteer on pavement is bad. Controlled Trailing Throttle Oversteer in the dirt with grippy offroad tires is a blast. Just let off the gas for a second, flick the steering wheel opposite to where you want to go, and then bury the throttle to drift through the corner. On the pavement the goal is to drive at the limits of your tires adhesion without going overboard. On the dirt, it’s much more fun to hang it out in the turns, but that’s not all.

It’s common knowledge that the Porsche has many similarities to the Volkswagen which was designed by Ferry Porsche’s Father, Dr Ferdinand Porsche. The rear engine configuration, light weight, independent rear suspension, and torsion bar springs are shared by both cars. Those attributes made them extremely capable offroad. Many offroad racers were VW based. VW’s were also used extensively during the fiberglass dune buggy craze during the 60’s. Unlike the Porsche, Volkswagens were inexpensive, and produced in massive numbers. By making a few simple changes, any 911 can become a solid offroad performer. Some Porsche bodied cars where raced offroad, but mainly in the highly modified unlimited classes. They were somewhat of a novelty, however the platform is well-proven. The latest unlimited, open wheeled race cars competing today are rear engine designs with an independent transaxle driving the rear wheels, just like the 911.

So what’s holding most people back from building such a fast, proven, and fun car for the dirt? It’s the cost. Anything with a Porsche badge on it has skyrocketed in value in recent years. While you might find a rough example that needs work for a reasonable price, most well-kept 911’s, no matter what the year can go for anywhere from 60 thousand to well over a hundred thousand dollars. A quick internet search for let’s say a 1976 Porsche Turbo Carrera came back with a lovely example for the bargain price of 229,900 dollars. To be fair, you can find 1974 to 1977 models for good prices, but the 2.7 liter engine had problems that can be costly to fix. As long as you are not concerned with originality, a 3.0 liter engine can be bolted right in. If you are going to tweak the suspension, and fit larger tires why not? The offroad 911 will grow in popularity, it’s just too fun to drive to ignore. Then there will be those who build one just to bother the Porsche snobs out there. Whatever your motivation, you will have a unique car that attracts attention, and is a blast to drive.

More on this Safari 911 build here.

X/T vs A/T R Tires:

Which Patagonia Tire Is Better for Your Application?

Tires are the most important modification you can make to your off-road vehicle. Think about it; they are the point of contact between your rig, and the ground. Do you want your vehicle wearing hiking boots, or flip flops? Although they are very different, both types of footwear offer superior performance when used as intended; the same goes for your tires. To the casual observer, Milestar Tires Patagonia X/T, and A/T R might look similar, but the fine details set these tires apart.

When engineers design tires, they have to target the intended use of the tire, what types of vehicles will use the tire, and many other factors in order to come up with the end result. A tire that will do duty on a heavy 4×4, or large truck is different from something intended for street use on a passenger car. It’s easy to look at both extremes, and point out the differences, but what about those tires in the product line that are much more versatile? The Milestar Patagonia A/T R, and X/T can be used on a wide range of vehicles. That’s why they are available in a variety of sizes, and load ranges from 15 inch diameters, all the way up to 20 inches. Load ranges on the A/T R include C, D, and E. The X/T ranges from D to F.

Load range letters designate the weight carrying capacity of a tire based on the amount of air pressure they can hold, and number of plies found in their construction. As the letters go down the alphabet, the capacity rises. A load range F tire can hold much more weight than a load range C. Typically a higher load range will also mean a stiffer side wall that will affect the ride quality on pavement, and the ability of the tire to be aired down off road. If you have a light weight 4×4 like a Suzuki Samurai, or a bobbed Toyota pick-up, you don’t need the same load range tire as a full size diesel crew cab 4×4 hauling a slide-in camper. However, advances in tire technology have allowed for greater strength of materials used in construction. Therefore a newer system based more on weight capacity rather than amount of plies is now in use. The older letter designation will probably be phased out. For now, Milestar tires carry both designations.

Take for instance a Patagonia XT in size 37×12.50-R17LT. The load rating is D, and the service index is 124Q. If you look at a load capacity conversion chart you will see that the 124 designates a load capacity of 3,527 pounds. The Q is the speed rating that happens to be 99 miles per hour. If we compare the same sized tire in the X/T, and the A/T R, you will see that they both have the same weight rating despite the A/T R having 2 ply sidewall construction, and the XT having 3 plies. Milestar engineers have figured out how to use different materials and construction to allow different properties in the 2 tires without sacrificing load capacity. The A/T R can have a smoother ride on pavement, and the XT can have greater sidewall puncture, and abrasion resistance. Now you know the reason why the new system is needed.

Next we come to rubber compound. To put it into simplest terms, the harder the compound, the greater the mileage you will get out of the tire. The softer the compound, the greater it will grip. That’s not to say that a harder compound can’t grip as well; that’s where tread design comes into play. Of course, you have to take terrain into the equation. In off-road situations, not only does the tire have to grip, but it also needs to flex in order to conform to uneven surfaces. The A/T R has a tread life rating of 4.5, and a 50 thousand mile tread life warranty. If within 5 years from the date of installation, the tire wears evenly across the tread down to the tread wear indicators (2/32nds of an inch of tread remaining) before providing the minimum warranted miles of service as indicated by the vehicle odometer, a credit will be issued toward the purchase of a new tire on a pro-rated basis to the actual mileage received. The XT has a 40 thousand mile warranty. The difference between the two tires is the tread compound. The X/T has to be more flexible, so it’s a softer compound. This gives us another hint as to which tire is right for you.

So far we’ve looked at some fairly simple aspects of tire design. Once we look at tread design, it starts to get a little more complicated. Let’s first look at the extremes. A drag race tire is completely smooth, and very soft. It is built for maximum traction on a smooth, clean, and dry surface. A sand tire (commonly referred to as a paddle tire) has big scoops that dig into the soft sand. Neither one would be practical on the street. Any tire that drives on the roadway has to have the handling characteristics capable of steering, braking, and accelerating in many varied conditions. Roads can be wet, or dry; smooth, or bumpy, hotter than a frying pan, or covered in ice. Once you travel off the road, you encounter all kinds of surfaces like mud, rocks, sand, or silt. Has anyone tried to pull a boat and trailer up a grass covered hill down by the lake? I think the technical term is slicker than snot. That’s where the tread design comes into play, and that’s where the A/T R, and X/T start to have greater differences.

While both tires have off-road capability, the A/T R has a tread design that puts more rubber on the road to give better performance on the pavement. The X/T is more suited for off road use due to its deeper and wider voids that shed mud, and dig into loose dirt. Both tires are a great addition to any rig; it just depends on your needs. If you travel long distances on the highway to get to the trails, the A/T R’s exceptional tread life, and good road manners might be your choice. Those who get into more challenging conditions might like the flexibility, and more aggressive tread pattern of the X/T. Either way, Milestar Tires has you covered.

The Ram TRX: A New Rival to the Ford Raptor

August 18, 2020 –  A new challenger approaches. When you think of a high powered and fast off-road pickup, there used to be only one vehicle that came to mind; the Ford Raptor. But now theres a new contender stepping into the ring in the fight for supremacy in the offroad world, and its name is the RAM 1500 TRX. And what does TRX stand for? No clue. But when you read it out, it kind of sounds like “T-Rex” which makes it clear who this beast is picking a fight with. But how does it stack up against the reigning champion?

The TRX seems to be coming out on top in terms of power. Featuring a 6.2L supercharged HEMI V8, this RAM has quite the kick. It pushes out 702hp and 650ft lb of torque, making its run from 0-60mph in 4.5 seconds. Thats quick for even a sports car! Compared to the Gen 2 Ford Raptor’s 3.6L twin turbocharged EcoBoost V6 engine that produces 450hp and 510ft lb of torque, the new kid has it beat. All that power comes with a cost, though. The TRX weighs a hefty 6350lb and compared to the Raptor’s 5508lb curb weight its a much heavier truck. Though you would think that the much lighter Raptor would help its speed, it still falls short in comparison to the TRX pulling a 0-60 in 5.5 seconds. So in power and speed, it seems that the RAM 1500 TRX has the Ford Raptor beat. But straight line speed isn’t everything for an offroad beast.

Both contenders here have beefy suspension setups by highly respected brands. The Ford Raptor features 3in racing shocks that were made by FOX while the new RAM TRX features Bilstien shocks designed specifically for this vehicle. RAM boasts the new TRX’s suspension, mentioning it’s, “unbeatable damping and improved heat dissipation for traversing harsh terrain at speeds greater than 100 mph”. Undoubtedly, this new truck was designed for all you desert running folks out there just like the Raptor. The difference here lies in the rear where the RAM uses a coil-spring setup while the Raptor still utilizes a leaf spring setup. The TRX’s suspension setup and fat fender flares gives it a wider track than the Raptor as well as an almost 2in difference in ground clearance.

These trucks wouldn’t truly be trucks if they couldn’t haul. The RAM has a payload capacity of 1,310lb and a towing capacity of 8,100lb. Compared to the Raptor, the TRX is much more capable. The Raptor’s payload capacity is around 300lb less at 1000lb and has a max towing capacity of 6000lb.

The arena where the Raptor has the TRX beat is definitively in its price. The RAM TRX is going to start at around $72,000 for the base model and up to $90,000 for the Launch Edition, which is right around $15,000 more than the current Gen 2 Ford Raptor. So which one is better overall? We’ll have to see when people start taking the TRX out for testing. But what can be stated is that the new RAM 1500 TRX is definitely looking like its going to be a beast and a strong rival for the Ford Raptor. So now begs the question: who wins in a fight between a T-Rex and a Raptor?

Will the Jeep Always Be the Overlanding Champ?

When it comes to off-road capabilities, few vehicles are in the same league as the venerable Jeep. The Jeep was a pioneer in off-road travel, and has been at the forefront of 4 wheeling for decades. The Jeeps usefulness in most any off-road driving situation is unquestionable, but what about its strengths, and weaknesses when it comes to overlanding?      

Some will say overlanding is just a fancy word for camping, while others say it’s more complicated than that.

Overlanding has become extremely popular in the last several years. One reason why it has such a huge following is because it cannot really be defined. It covers such a wide spectrum of vehicles, and pursuits, it allows almost anyone traveling off-road to fit under the overlanding umbrella. You can overland in a million dollar, six wheel drive house on wheels, or an all-wheel drive car with good tires. All it takes are good tires, and some off-road driving skills.

Some will say overlanding is just a fancy word for camping, while others say it’s more complicated than that. For me, the definition of overlanding is being capable of off-road travel while being fully self-contained. You should be able to support all your needs for several days or weeks without the benefit of running water or power from the grid.

Overlanding should not be confused with Boondocking. Boondocking is also being self-contained, and miles from support, but typically when you are boondocking you are staying at a destination. Overlanding is more about traveling to and from destinations.

The emphasis is on the trip, not necessarily the destination. With that in mind, the perfect rig for overlanding lies somewhere in between the all-wheel drive car, and the huge motorhome that may have 4wd, and some off-road capabilities. The region where you are overlanding also places confines on the configuration of a suitable overlanding rig. A 30 foot long, 12 foot high, and 8 foot wide truck based rig is just fine in the wide open desert, but would be tortuous in tight, off-camber trails deep in the forest canopy. In comparison, the all-wheel drive car fits on even the most overgrown 2 tracks you will find in the East. It’s also right at home on the many dirt roads found in the southwestern United States. The problem with a small car-based vehicle is that you lack the rugged construction, power, and ground clearance of a truck. You also run out of space quickly.

It won’t take long to exceed both the space limitations, and the weight carrying capacity of your car-based overlander; even with your titanium spork, and carbon fiber lawn chair.

One of the harsh realities of overlanding is “where do I put all this stuff?” If you are going to be spending the week in the cool mountains you can probably get away with less water than you would in the desert. The National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine have determined that in a temperate climate a person should drink between 3 and 4 liters of water per day to stay hydrated. That’s a gallon or so a day per person, in mild temperatures, and without exertion. If you are participating in strenuous labor (like chopping firewood, shoveling dirt, or changing a flat tire), obviously your intake needs to increase as you sweat it out.

Just as notable, if you are in a hot desert, or humid forest, your needs will also be increased. Let’s say you are on the high end of the scale and need twice the recommended water just for hydration; we are not including washing, or cooking needs. For a 7 day trip that’s 14 gallons of water per person. With the weight of water being 8.34 lbs. per gallon, that’s 116 lbs. of water you need to carry per person. Then you need food, tools, gear, spare parts, sleeping accommodations, kitchen utensils, etc, etc. It won’t take long to exceed both the space limitations, and the weight carrying capacity of your car-based overlander; even with your titanium spork, and carbon fiber lawn chair.

On the other end of the spectrum is the huge truck based camper. You have the space, and the weight carrying capacity to haul all that water, but you also have to push the weight. On the big heavy trucks fuel becomes an issue. Gasoline is only 6.3 lbs. per gallon, but you’ll have to carry a lot to have any range. The big rigs are right at home in open spaces, but navigating narrow canyons, or tight trails can be extremely challenging when you’re 12 feet tall, 8 feet wide, and have the turning radius of an ocean liner.

Clearly the best rig for overlanding is something in the middle of these two extremes. You want it to be small enough to navigate tight trails, but with ample ground clearance, and strong suspension components. It needs to get good fuel mileage, and enough capacity for extended range. It has to have enough room for cargo, and still be comfortable for passengers. It needs the strength of a truck chassis to handle the weight, and not twist itself to the point of failure. It’s also beneficial to be able to tow a trailer, and to have secure frame attachment points for recovery. Finally, it has to have a big enough platform to either sleep inside, or mount a realistically sized rooftop tent.

When you add it all up, nothing really compares to the venerable Jeep. Now I have to admit, the earlier CJ’s, and their short wheelbase cousins are lagging when it comes to cargo space, and room for passengers, but the longer wheelbase Jeeps (Don’t forget the Scramblers), are perfect for overlanding. They have all the capabilities off-road to get you through any terrain, and all the aftermarket support to build whatever you desire. Jeeps Trail Rated® designation means that it’s able to perform in a variety of challenging off-road conditions. The criteria include five performance categories: traction, ground clearance, maneuverability, articulation and water fording. Straight off the dealer’s lot you can also have many options that you’ll need while overlanding like a 240-Amp Alternator, Class IV Receiver Hitch, and Heavy-Duty Engine Cooling.

With the launch of the new Gladiator, you can have the best of all worlds; comfortable space inside for people and supplies, and ample cargo capacity in the bed. When it comes to the best overlanding configuration, the versatility of the Jeep can’t be beat. Until something else comes along, it will continue to be the undisputed champ.

Top 10 Best Off-Road Vehicles

Not all four-wheel drive vehicles are created equal. Many are similar and are very capable in their own ways, especially depending on the type of off-road driving you do and terrain you prefer but some are just flat out better than others. Trying to classify all 4x4s into one list is like trying to herd cats, they’re all going in different directions and don’t care what you say. In an attempt to appease the off-road powers that be, I’ve put together a list of my top 10 best off-road vehicles as a starting point for a “do most everything” vehicle that factors in cost, aftermarket support, usability and a little bit of cool-factor.

10. Suzuki Samurai

The Suzuki Samurai, also known as the Suzuki Jimny outside the U.S. has been around a long time. First production started in 1970 but didn’t hit State-side until 1984 with the SJ413 model. They are light and inexpensive. Aftermarket support is mediocre but just about everything is available.

When it comes to what it is capable of, well, it’s ok in stock form. They have reliable leaf spring suspension design and straight axles front and rear, removable tops and no frills. They are very reminiscent of old flat fender Willys Jeeps with a few modern upgrades like a stereo and even A/C on some models.

9. Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser

The FJ40 gets on the list with sheer brute strength and vintage cool-factor. Toyota’s Land Cruiser line has had a well established grip on the off-road world for a long time and the FJ40 is a big reason for that. Available in soft top configuration as well as permanent hard top versions, they were bigger than Jeep CJs, had a nearly indestructible, though not powerful, inline-6 engine and were the go-to vehicle for people who wanted a vehicle like a Jeep, but didn’t want a Jeep.

The two-door short wheelbase rig used to have strong aftermarket support but these rigs are getting older and harder to find. As a respected vintage vehicle, purchase prices are climbing. Another rig with leaf springs and straight axles front and rear, a stock FJ40 can out-wheel 90-percent of new 4×4 vehicles sold today.

8. Toyota 4Runner

4Runners are also a favorite for the anti-Jeep crowd. There have been many iterations of the 4Runner over the years, the earliest coming with leaf springs and straight axles, then to independent front suspension with a live-axle rear that uses coils to support the body. Overall, the 4Runner has improved with each new body style in some form, though each generation gets more creature comforts and more low-hanging body panels. With the Overland theme growing, 4Runners still have a tight hold in the off-road world.

Aftermarket support varies wildly from generation to generation, but each have their niche. Bumpers, rock rails, skid plates and so much more are available. Toyota has had a long history of reliable motors, from the 22r, the 3.4L V6 to even their V8s, which are available in some of the late model 4Runners.

7. Toyota FJ Cruiser

Toyota’s FJ Cruiser shares a lot with the same year range 4Runner, from 2006 to 2014. The two-door rig added a specific vibe to what is essentially the same platform and on a shorter wheelbase. Aftermarket support skyrocketed when the FJ Cruiser hit the dealer lots. Since then, the support has dialed back but is still available.

The IFS front and straight axle/coil rear is a solid suspension that is good for most off-roading. The suspension is a little more complicated to modify and doesn’t articulate the same as a straight axle, but higher speed activities are generally more enjoyable because of it.

6. Jeep Cherokee XJ

When the Jeep Cherokee XJ hit the market in 1984, it started a chain of events that leads directly to where the Jeep brand is today with the 4-door Wranglers. Available in both two door and four door, buyers had a good option for a compact SUV that didn’t break the bank and could go anywhere.

The XJ had an eighteen model year run on the same platform, with a body and trim refresh in 1997. Loaded with the classic Jeep 4.0L inline six power plant, available in two or four door models with straight axles, it has been hard to beat. Aftermarket support is high and with more than a million XJs on the road, vehicle prices are nominal.

5. Jeep Wrangler TJ/LJ

When most people picture a Jeep, they have an image of a Wrangler TJ in their head. Short wheel base, removable hard or soft top, aftermarket support coming from every angle for anything you could possibly imagine. The TJ was the last Jeep to run the 4.0L I-6 and never had a ton of frills. Rubicon models step the game up significantly, along with the price tag.

Next on our top 10 best off-road vehicles list is the Jeep Wrangler JL. The Wrangler LJ Unlimited is generally considered the holy grail of off-road vehicles, if you can get your hands on one for a decent price. The longer version of the TJ could use most of the same parts but had a wheelbase that was better suited for wheeling in just about any terrain. Prices of both the TJ and LJ have not dropped as fast as many other off-roaders because the demand for them is still high.

4. Toyota Tacoma

Toyota trucks have their own legacy aside from the rest of the brand. Strong, reliable trucks that can be used for nearly any task. Just like the other Toyota’s on this list, they have great motors and a well rounded suspension.

Aftermarket support depends on which generation but as a popular rig for Overlanding, the parts lists is continually growing. While not the best rock crawlers, Tacomas find an easy home blasting down fire roads and sand as much as it does on the highway.

3. RAM 2500 Power Wagon

The Ram 2500 Power Wagon is the Rubicon of Ram trucks. Lockers front and rear, strong and durable coil suspension front and leaf or coil rear depending on year, plus a HEMI V8 powerplant. Power Wagons are beasts that can tackle anything, as long as there’s enough room for the wide solid axles and body.

The Power Wagon comes with a winch direct off the showroom floor, along with its hefty price tag. A truck like this makes a great tow rig that converts to a recovery rig for smaller brethren.

2. Ford Raptor

By far, the Ford Raptor wins the cake when it comes to high speed action capability direct from a manufacturer. Long travel King Shock coil overs, 35-inch tires and a rear locker make it a no-brainer if you want to cover lots of distance quickly.

Price tag is usually the only drawback to Raptors, though first-generation models are starting to dip in price. As a vehicle that wasn’t specifically designed to handle rock crawling, with the help of their long wheelbase and traction controls, they can handle more than you might expect. Every other aspect of off-road is no sweat for a Raptor. The aftermarket loves the Raptor and has a massive amount of accessories and upgrades available.

1. Jeep Wrangler JK

The Wrangler JK revitalized the Jeep brand immensely when it hit dealer lots in 2007. The four door Jeep brought attention from a much wider spread of demographics than any other Jeep, or vehicle for that matter, before it. Soccer moms (and Dad’s like me), mall crawlers, hardcore rock crawlers, overlanders, desert racers and more all have interest in JKs. They a bigger than previous Wranglers, suspensions are much more effective, have huge wheel well openings for larger tires and can balance as a daily driver/weekend warrior better than most.

Last but not least on our top 10 best off-road vehicles is the Jeep JK. The JK ran out of production in 2018 and the JL Wrangler took it’s place. The JL is extremely similar to the JK and in a few years when there are more used ones for sale, will likely make a list like this but for now, they are just too expensive. Early JKs from 2007 to 2011 used a 3.8L engine that Chrysler used in a minivan that wasn’t the greatest. The 3.6L that came out in 2012, along with a 5-speed automatic transmission was a huge improvement. The interior was refresh but otherwise, the Jeep stayed mostly the same. Over a million are on the road and the aftermarket support is the largest of ANY other vehicle in the world.

A Badass Jeep JK Build for 10K? Here’s Your Guide!

There are thousands, maybe even millions of different ways to build and accessorize the Jeep JK Wrangler into a great JK build. There are so many aftermarket parts available, where do you start? We decided to toss our thoughts out there with a hypothetical build using a bone stock JK and a $10,000 budget. That certainly seems like it should be enough money, though most of us build our rigs over time and not all at once.

Here’s we’ll cover the basics and our picks for this Jeep JK build, keeping the whole budget in mind. For consistency, all prices are based on advertised retail price from Northridge4x4.com. We are not including tax or installation as both will vary based on where you are and your level of do-it-yourself ability and necessity.

Lift It

First up, let’s get the 10k-JK build elevated. JK Wranglers have large wheel wells openings from the factory. They can fit a much larger tire than previous model Jeeps without as much lift. Our goal is to get the Jeep into a good height for clearance while improving function. For this, we’d go with the Teraflex 3-inch Lift Suspension System w/ 4 Sport Flexarms & Track Bar.

The kit includes the necessary lift coils and miscellaneous brackets but also goes a step further than the basics by providing new front lower and rear upper control arms, a front adjustable track bar and a rear track bar relocation bracket. The track bar components and new Preset Sport Flexarms will keep your vehicle in proper alignment. The Flexarms also provide better articulation and more strength.

Price: $1400.96

Shock It

Shocks are no place to scrimp. Having good shocks is a key factor in a long-lasting rig that doesn’t beat your body up on every mile and every bump. With the immense popularity of JK Wranglers, FOX Shocks made life easy by having direct bolt-in options for different lift heights.

The FOX Performance Series 2.0 Reservoir smooth body shocks brings all of the fancy tech FOX has developed over the years into a simple to install package. Built with lots of aluminum to resist corrosion and utilizing race-proven piston and valving designs, you can’t go wrong.

Price: $269.95 each – $1079.80 for 4

Flare It

Adding new high clearance fender flares is a solid Go-To when building this Jeep JK, especially when working on a specific budget. The extra clearance allows for a larger tire without as much lift by removing unnecessary OEM plastic bits and low hanging edges.

MCE Fenders produces OE width flare with 2-inches of extra tire clearance. With only a set of these flares, a JK Wrangler can run a 35-inch tire on stock suspension. Their single wall construction is so durable, MCE offers a “No Fine Print” Lifetime Warranty. Kit includes DOT approved LED side marker lights and retains the OE inner fender liner.

Price: $399.99

Wheel and Tire It

With the JK build higher, we can now stuff some new sneakers on it. The 3-inch lift technically is meant for a 35-inch tall tire but because we have chosen high clearance flares for our build, we can step up to 37s.

Method Race Wheels produce a strong and reliable wheel for years of off-road use. There is a wide range of styles available, though there is a smooth blend of classic and modern with the Street Series 309 in Matte Black.

Built from A356 aluminum and T6 heat treated, the 17×8.5 309 has a 2500+lb load rating and also features the Street-Loc V.1 lip with undercut that simulates a true beadlock wheel.

Price: $257.13 each – $1,285.65 for 5

Tires just might be one of the most important choices you make during your build. A reliable Jeep JK build needs reliable tires. The Milestar Patagonia M/T 37X12.50R17 provides superior traction in harsh terrains while giving you excellent road manners.

The solid mud terrain tire has aggressive edges for a great bit, high-void tread design for self-cleaning and uses a 3-ply sidewall for additional protection against damage.

Price: $373.50 each – $1867.50 for 5

Spare It

Anything can happen, even with careful driving and strong tires. It is always a good idea to bring along a matching height spare tire. We’ve included the costs of the spare wheel and tire above but now you need a place to mount it. The stock JK tailgate, though stronger than it’s predecessors, isn’t up to the task of supporting the weight of a larger wheel and tire combo. Not to mention the clearance issues.

Installing a Teraflex Alpha HD Hinged Spare Tire Carrier & Alpha HD Adjustable Spare Tire Mounting Kit solves the issue. The Hinged Spare Tire Carrier replaces the OE tailgate hinges and reinforces the sheetmetal of the tailgate, making it robust enough to easily support a 37-inch tire.

Combines with the HD Adjustable Spare Tire Mounting Kit, the system can accommodate many different wheel backspaces and tire widths.

Price: $700.98

Protect It

We’ve covered the height, flex and traction, now on to protecting the Jeep JK build when out in the dirt. There are a staggering number of bumpers available on the market for the JK. Many of them are good solid pieces and have varying different benefits.

Bumpers

Body Armor 4×4 has been building quality bumpers for years. Using 3/16-inch and ¼-inch thick steel plate, their Mid-Stubby Front Bumper accommodates a winch like the Warn VR EVO 10-S with synthetic rope and has multiple light tabs for future use. A winch is just good off-roading practice and Warn is the winch leader when it comes to build quality and innovation. Body Armor 4×4’s Rear Bumper Base provides a solid shackle attachment point, clears the OE-hitch and looks much better than the factory bumper.

Front Price: $441.99

Rear Price: $331.99

Skid Plates

This JK build is a big beast of a Jeep, especially on 37s but there are still plenty of obstacles that may want to give the underbelly a few love taps. For that, there skid plates from Rock Hard 4×4 for the Transfer Case and Fuel Tank. Both are made from 3/16-inch thick steel and are 100 percent bolt on.

Transfer Case Skid Plate Price: $259.95

Fuel Tank Skid Plate Price: $409.95

Rock Rails

When protecting your Jeep JK build from the perils of off-road trails, make sure to pay attention to the rocker panels. The JK Unlimited is long and has a large gap between the tires that likes to get munched by rocks. Bolting on a set of Rock Hard 4×4 Patriot Series “Boat Side” Rock Sliders will eliminate the concern.

The strongest rock slider Rock Hard 4×4 makes is built from durable 3/16-inch steel and has a flat surface designed to glide off obstacles. The boat sides include openings for Hi-Lift Jack use and has an optional diamond tread pattern top for better traction when used as a step.

Price: $899.95

Light It Up

The last bit we’ll squeeze into our $10k-JK is lighting. When travelling and camping, you are bound to be out at night and having sufficient lighting is far safer than not. Genesis Off-Road produces a Double Dually Light Bracket for the hinge area of the A-pillar that accepts two lights per side. Rigid Industries recently released the 4-inch 360-Series LED Diffused Fog Lights that are perfect for lighting up the trail, road or camp.

Bracket Price: $69.00

Lights Price: $349.99 a pair – $699.98 total

Tally It

The tally comes out to $10,592.68. It really adds up that fast. There are far more accessories and upgrades that can be done that what is shared here, not to mention all the different options for what we have covered. Now go build your Jeep JK, make it how you want it!

Understanding Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

Early 4 wheel drive trucks used a solid axle up front because it was simple, and strong. However, the solid axle has downsides. One of which was the ride quality. Anything that disturbs one side of the axle affects the other side too. With an independent suspension, both sides work independently from each other. IFS was designed in part to provide a smoother ride, but like everything else on a vehicle; it has its strengths, and weaknesses; we’ll explore both.  

In order for the axles to articulate when the suspension moves up and down, the IFS uses constant velocity joints (CV’s). The CV’s get their name from their function. As they move, they maintain a constant velocity unlike your standard cardan or universal joint. CV’s do not need to be timed like a universal joint, and opposing CV’s can work at different angles without causing a vibration. 

CV’s are constructed from a splined “star” that slides over the splines on the axle shaft. The star has deep grooves on the outside diameter that provide a bearing race for several large ball bearings (typically 6). There are other designs that use square parts with needle bearings, but the most common CV’s use round balls. The round balls are contained in a ring that has holes through it where the ball bearings sit. The ring is called a cage. The cage and bearings then fit into the outer housing that has the same deep grooves of the star in its inside diameter. The star drives the bearings that in turn drive the outer bearing housing. The cage simply holds the ball bearings in place.

The result is an assembly that drives the axle shaft while allowing it to articulate in any direction. There is a limiting factor to the articulation; a maximum angle that the CV can move. If the axle shaft exceeds that limit it can bind, or come apart. All that motion of the balls creates a lot of friction (heat), so proper lubrication is a must. That’s why it’s also critical to keep dirt out of the CV; that is the job of the CV boot. The boot needs to flex with the CV while keeping the grease inside, and water, and debris out. Boots are made from rubber, silicone, or plastic. Heavy duty leather boots are also available, but those are mostly used for racing. One of the shortcomings of CV’s is when the boot gets damaged, the grease escapes, and it doesn’t take much foreign matter to destroy the CV joint. 

An IFS has more moving parts, and more points of failure than a solid axle. Each a-arm will have a pivot or two with a bushing on the chassis end, and a ball joint or spherical bearing at the upright that allows the suspension to move up and down and to turn at the same time. All these points create friction so they will wear over time, and can fail. There is also a packaging problem with IFS. Fitting shocks, steering, and axles into a space tight enough to still allow tire clearance at full lock can be daunting. The other issue is the CV’s maximum angle. It will limit the amount of suspension travel available.

Most independent suspensions use an upper and lower a-arm, and a spindle or upright as many call it. The exception to this is Ford’s Twin Traction Beam Suspension, or TTB. The TTB is unique in that it has what is typically a solid axle with a universal joint in the long side axle which allows both sides of the housing to articulate. It’s a solid axle with a pivot in the middle. It does offer independent motion of both wheels, but it has more of the properties of a solid axle than an independent suspension using a-arms, and CV joints. 

The independent suspension has a differential just like the solid axle, but with CV’s on both ends. The differential is mounted to the chassis which decreases the unsprung weight of the vehicle. Unsprung weight is the weight of the moving components of you suspension. Sprung weight is the weight of the vehicle that the suspension is holding up. The less unsprung weight you have, the less work your shocks need to do to control the suspension. Your suspension is much more responsive to the terrain without needing huge amounts of damping in the shocks. When combined with fewer tendencies to transfer suspension inputs to the other side of the vehicle like a solid axle does, the result of IFS is a much more comfortable ride. 

When designing an IFS, room for the differential housing in the chassis has to be taken into account. The front end already has tons of stuff occupying space like the engine, fan, and radiator. Some designs simply drop the chassis down in the center of the frame to mount the differential. This can cause ground clearance problems. Instead of an axle that can move, you have solid frame making contact to the ground or rocks. If the IFS is properly designed, it can actually increase ground clearance in front, but moving the differential up too high can lead to excessive angles on the CV joints, a definite limiting factor. That’s why many rock crawlers prefer a solid axle in front. The solid axle will lift the entire front end up and over rocks. With an independent front design, you need to keep the tires on the rocks as one side of the suspension will go up and over the rock, while the chassis and opposite side are not affected. When it comes to the rocks, the solid axle has some advantages over IFS. 

When talking about an IFS you also need to discuss the steering. Most IFS designs use rack and pinion steering. The rack is a long rectangular piece with straight gears cut into it. It is held in mesh with a pinion gear that comes in perpendicular to the rack. As the steering wheel is turned, the pinion gear moves the rack back and forth. On each end of the rack are steering shafts that connect to the upright on the other end. Care must be taken to keep the length and angle of the steering shafts similar to the a-arms. If the motion of the steering shafts are not on the same arc as the a-arms, you will experience bump steer. Bump steer is when the up and down motion of the suspension pushes or pulls on the steering shafts causing the wheels to turn, or toe in or out. A drawback to the rack and pinion is that when a load is put on a steering shaft, that load goes to the teeth on the rack, and the pinion gear at the point of contact. If you continuously encounter these loads, the teeth on the rack can hammer against the pinion gear causing it to wear out or break.

Breakthroughs in CV joint designs, as well as other IFS parts and assemblies have pushed 4 wheel drive IFS to high levels of durability.

It was already mentioned that the IFS gives a smoother ride, it has other attributes as well. Because of the way the upper and lower a-arms travel in an arc, the upright maintains nearly perfect camber throughout the suspension travel. Where a straight axle will have the tires on an angle when it articulates, the IFS will keep the tread of the tire parallel to the ground. That maximizes the contact patch of the tire, giving you maximum traction for acceleration, braking, and steering control. It also saves the sidewalls of your tires from possible damage. Because both tires move independently, and with less input on the chassis, the vehicle tends to be more stable; especially at high speeds. Both tires are free to move up and down, and remember there is also less unsprung weight, so the vehicle remains level and constant. With more traction, and better steering control, there is less understeer in the corners. Understeer is when the vehicle resists steering input and the vehicle momentum overcomes traction. It causes the vehicle to push straight ahead in the turn. With an IFS you can push harder into the turns, and accelerate sooner because the front will turn better. While the straight axle might be better suited to slow speeds in the rocks, the IFS shines at high speeds in rough terrain. Impacts that will upset a straight axle suspension will be soaked up with ease by the IFS. 

Breakthroughs in CV joint designs, as well as other IFS parts and assemblies have pushed 4 wheel drive IFS to high levels of durability. Pro-4 racing on the track, and Ultra4 racing offroad has refined the parts needed to apply the horsepower and torque that is available today. So much so that Unlimited Trophy Trucks, the biggest and baddest trucks racing in the desert, are now being built with 4 wheel drive. The drive assemblies are so reliable that the extra complexity is worth it. The benefits include less possibility of getting stuck in the silt, quicker acceleration out of the turns, being able to drive deeper into the corners, and less wheel spin so your tires may last a little longer. New designs with portal axles to reduce CV angles, and provide additional gearing options will push performance ever farther. There have been several 4 wheel drive Trophy Trucks in the past, but they seemed to be burdened by the complexity of 4 wheel drive. Now that the bugs have been worked out, 4 wheel drive IFS has become the wave of the future.   

Thinking of Overlanding in Your Crossover? Read This First!

Overlanding isn’t anything new. Societies have been doing it for more years than the automobile has been around. Covered wagons explored and traversed across North America and many of those same paths turned into highways and some even became off-road trails we know and love to this day. All over the world, people have been loading up vehicles and camping out of them for exploration, adventure, and necessity.

To overland, it doesn’t really matter what kind of vehicle you are in. The most common are Jeeps and Toyotas, sure, but they don’t own it. Compact Utility Vehicles (CUVs), especially all-wheel drive models, are well adept at handling the same terrain in most cases. They wont be crawling over giant boulders but they will certainly handle a lot of dirt roads.

CUVs are also known as Crossover vehicles. They bridge the gap between a car/station wagon and a larger SUV. Subarus, small Jeeps, and small Toyotas are among just a few of the many on the market. Loads of auto manufacturers build them.

Is a CUV Good for Overlanding?

The point of overlanding is to get to remote areas off the beaten path and bring your stuff with you. The vehicle is meant to be self-supported and self-reliant. The requirements are extremely vague but at minimum, it needs to carry everything you need for your trip.

Just about any vehicle will do, though some are better suited than others. Cargo space with your gear, a place to sleep, and the ability to get where you’re going. Can your vehicle do that?

Overlanding Gear Checklist

• Vehicle equipped to handle terrain expected on adventure
• Water – Amount depends on length of trip and number of people in the vehicle
• Food – Also depends on trip length, number of people. Coolers and Stoves may be required
• Place to sleep – Can you lay down the seats and sleep in your vehicle? Or do you have a roof top tent?
• Clothing
• Tools for vehicle repairs
• Safety Equipment – This varies based on terrain, the vehicle and how long you will go but there are mainstays that you should always have such as (but not limited to) a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher, spare tire with tools to change one, and communications equipment.
• Spare Fuel

Traction

A CUV that has all-wheel drive can generally get you to the remote places you’ll want to go to. Some vehicles even have aftermarket support to boost ground clearance, lengthen wheel travel, and improve the ride along the way.

Many newer CUVs with 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive have improved traction control devices already built in and ready to go like the Jeep Compass with the Selec-Terrain Traction Management System. Through controls on the dash, the driver can select from auto, snow, sand, mud or rock mode to best suit the terrain.

Getting traction is easily one of the most important aspects to think of when setting up a vehicle for overlanding. The vehicle will be travelling lots of miles over varied terrain and needs to be able to handle it all. Many tire manufacturers have all terrain tire options in sizes suitable for CUVs. Some even offer more aggressive mud terrain tires in the same sizes.

Partial List of Suitable CUVs for Overlanding

Here is a short list of newer CUVs and Crossovers that can be good for Overlanding. There a far more vehicles available that could be used so if you don’t see your vehicle here, don’t fret.

• Ford Escape
• Honda Pilot
• Honda Element
• Hyundai Kona
• Hyundai Tucson
• Jeep Compass
• Jeep Cherokee
• Toyota RAV4
• Nissan Rogue
• Subaru Outback
• Subaru Forrester
• Subaru Crosstrek
• Toyota RAV4
• And so many more…

If you are in the market to get a CUV to use as an Overlanding rig, spend some time looking at the aftermarket products available for different models. What you find there combined with the type of off-road travelling you want or expect to do may help guide your decision. Looks for small suspension lifts, tow hooks, cargo racks, skid plates and other items you may usually only think of for Wranglers or Tacomas. It is a niche market but enthusiasts-turned-business owners target many small vehicles you may not expect.

For those that already have an all-wheel drive CUV, load up your gear and get out there! There is no need to have a massively built rig with huge tires to go have fun, enjoy the great outdoors and explore.

To see if you and your vehicle is ready for an adventure, plan one! Put together a plan with specifics including where you will go, the path to get there, the duration of the trip and the time of year you will go.

Go through the process and think along the way, can my CUV do that? Do I have enough space? Do I have the right gear? If not, you either need to modify your vehicle, or change your plan.

Get involved in online forums or local clubs to talk to others with your same vehicle or similar vehicles and find out what experiences they have had. Listen for things they wished they had known before their first adventure.

Then, all you need to do is get out there and enjoy!

What’s the Big Difference Between a Jeep JK and a Jeep JL?

The Jeep scene changed forever when the JK Wrangler Unlimited hit the automotive market in 2007. Jeep was no stranger to capable 4-door off-road vehicles, but the new Wrangler was different. Taking the iconic powers of the previous generations of Wranglers and CJs and transforming them into a more family and daily-life friendly vehicle made a huge impact.

JKs popped up everywhere. Jeep couldn’t make enough of them. The suspension was improved, and extra creature comforts were added. The term “mall-crawling” became a thing because the popularity of the vehicle reached far more demographics of buyers. Loads of people who wouldn’t normally buy a Wrangler were now all over them. It is very possible that the JK Wrangler saved the Jeep brand from total collapse.

After a twelve-model year run, ending with a 2018 model, the JK Wrangler was the most produced and sold Jeep of all time. The vehicle saw various upgrades through its stretch but by-and-large was still the same vehicle. With such a popular vehicle, how could the Jeep engineers and designers top it for the next version of the vehicle?

The JL Wrangler hit showroom floors for the 2018 model year, right alongside the final days of the JK. For non-Jeep folks, the JL Wrangler Unlimited looks just like a JK on a passing glance or with blurry eyes.

What’s the Difference?

The two models look so similar, it is easy to question what the difference between them really is. We are going to explore those differences here.

Exterior: The JK is a classic body-on-frame construction. All the sheetmetal is steel, with lots of classic CJ cues. The JL, however, brought in weight saving aluminum for the doors and various other non-structural pieces. Sheetmetal changes were mostly cosmetic. Turn signals moved to fender flare from grille, pull handles instead of push buttons, rear license plate moved from body to bumper, trivial things that don’t have much impact of the versatility of the vehicle alone but when added up, make a difference.

Four door models of the JL were lengthened by four inches, two inches for two door models. Both stayed the same body width. The longer body allows for more interior space and better passenger comfort.

Another beneficial change to the new model is the fender flares and wheel wells. A larger than factory tire is easier to fit on a JL than a JK, especially for Rubicon (and some Sahara) models. Rubicons get special higher clearance fender flares that offer 2-inches more tire clearance.

Watch Brittany Williams of LiteBrite on Youtube sharing what she likes about the Jeep JL Wrangler:

The doors and tops are removable on both models, minus one JL top option, the Sky One-Touch top. Later JK models had an option of a soft top, standard black hard top or a color matched top. JLs continued the same trend and added the Sky One-Touch top that has removable rear quarter windows and a push-to-retract fabric center in the roof.

JK Wranglers have fold down windshield components but require disassembling the exterior of the A-pillar (6 bolts on each side) along with disconnecting roll bar attachment points near the windshield visors. The JL Wrangler improved on this design by extending the roll bar to have A-pillar tubes. With this design, Jeep was able to no longer require the windshield to be load bearing in the event of a rollover and could make folding the windshield down much easier. Remove the windshield wipers and 4 bolts on the interior and it is down.

Interior: The passenger compartment was drastically redesigned and modernized. The gauge cluster has a much more digital aspect to it with a center screen that has settings to keep tabs on all sorts of different levels, functions and features. The stereo was shifted to a true infotainment system on most models, now with access to other controls and features that were inaccessible on JKs.

The seats, door panels and other miscellaneous bits inside were changed and small improvements were made. The rear cargo area now has an optional Trail Rail Cargo Management system. The system allows for easier load strapping along with options to add other mounts and racks.

Powertrain: In 2012, the JK was upgraded to the Pentastar 3.6L V6 engine. Though smaller in displacement than its predecessor, the 3.6L is more efficient and has a strong horsepower and torque output. The same engine continued to the JL with minor changes that are mostly in the computer programming. A Stop/Start system was added to help increase fuel efficiency.

Later in the first model year, the JL Wrangler could be purchased with a 2.0L T4 Hurricane turbocharged inline 4-cylinder engine. The JK Wrangler had only the one engine choice each year of its run. Diesel powered JLs are said to be available for the 2020 model year and talks of a Hybrid model have been buzzing around for some time.

Drivetrain: The JL Wrangler gets to benefit from the Torqueflite 850RE, an 8-speed automatic transmission. Previously, the JK used a 4-speed automatic for early models, then a 5-speed from 2012 on. The new transmission smoothed the drive considerably, allowing the computer to not hunt for the correct gear as much. The transfer case stayed the same on both Sport and Rubicon models.

Dana axle assemblies are used in both generations. The JK was much wider than the TJ Wrangler that preceded it, instead of widening the existing designs, Dana created new units with larger ring and pinion gear sets, axle shafts, axle tubes and more. They again upgraded the assemblies for the JL. Slightly wider, slightly bigger, and overall stronger.

The wheelbase was stretched approximately 1.5-inches on 2-doors and 2.5-inches on 4-doors.

Suspension: Both the JK and JL are set up with solid axles and a 4-link plus track-bar suspension design front and rear. The lengths of the control arms stretched minor amounts and some other small tweaks were made to mounting ends for smoother movement through the range of travel. The JK Wrangler had already received much longer and stronger control arms over the TJ Wrangler. For the most part, the suspension was left alone.

In the End, Which Is Better?

At the end of it all, which is the better vehicle? That all depends on what you want out of it. At this point, JK Wranglers are starting to drop in price. They are highly capable vehicles that have a long timeline for bugs being worked out by both the factory and the aftermarket enthusiasts. JL Wranglers are slightly bigger, more creature comforts, better efficiency along with a higher price tag.

Why Is Overlanding So Popular Now?

Overlanding is not new. Travelling cross country with a vehicle is as old as the wheel. When you look at the some of the first overlanders, they travelled in wagons, or rode horses. Nomadic tribes, sheep herders, and the pioneers of the old west all lived on the move, and had to carry their entire belongings wherever they went. That’s what overlanding means to many people; being able to go anywhere while being self-contained. When the automobile showed up in the 1900’s, overlanding followed. The country still had large swaths of open, undeveloped land with plenty to explore. People had leisure time, and transportation.

American’s fascination with offroad travel has never waned. The same can be said for exploring the wilderness. One reason why overlanding has become so popular is because it’s a diverse crowd. You can find people overlanding in everything from a million dollar, purposely built big rig to an all-wheel drive car with a roof top tent. Can you still overland in a car? Sure, but one prerequisite of overlanding in many people’s minds is the ability to go off road. Not just down a graded dirt road, but beyond man-made roadways and off onto challenging trails. Whether you can accomplish that in a car is up to you, but I’ve seen it done. In fact, it’s typical in Mexico to be miles outside of any town, or so you think, and see a local chug past in an old car with bald tires through the same silt bed that just trapped your fancy 4 wheel drive for the last hour with hardly a care. The fact is, most offroad race vehicles are 2 wheel drive. The venerable VW beetle is an example of a very basic, 2 wheel drive vehicle that is capable of going just about anywhere offroad. Don’t expect it to carry a bunch of gear though, but that leads us to the next topic; comfort.

Overlanding has many levels of comfort. It all depends on your budget, and how far off the beaten path you care to venture. Some of the most extreme overlanding vehicles have everything a typical home would contain; a kitchen, bath, bedroom, even laundry facilities or a garage. The finishes inside will reflect the cost of the build. When money is no object, you get marble backsplashes, microwave ovens, and big screen TV’s. The more luxuries you bring, the more payload your vehicle needs to carry. At some point, your offroad capabilities become compromised. That’s why many prefer to trade convenience, and comfort for capability. True overlanding in my opinion has to do with getting off the beaten path. With that said, the terrain you will be exploring also has a lot to do with the size rig you can use. In deserts, and dunes, the bigger rigs are fine. If you’re navigating through thick forests, or tight mountain trails, a smaller rig is the only way to get around. There is no single vehicle that will serve every purpose.

Overlanders for the most part fit into two categories; those who do it for recreation, and others who live full time on the road. Many people say that overlanding is just a fancy word for camping. That might be true, but those who live full time on the road will argue that it takes a lot of commitment to cut ties with a conventional existence. Their choice of vehicle, and what to outfit it with, will be different than that of someone who is just out for fun for a couple of days. You can rough it for a while car camping, but as soon as you are forced to take shelter for a couple days due to weather, the contrast between full time, and for fun becomes clear. There is no going home to get out of the elements when you live on the road. You can always pack up and leave, but your choices are more limited. Staying warm or cool, dry, and fed can be challenging at times.

…it’s typical in Mexico to be miles outside of any town, or so you think, and see a local chug past in an old car with bald tires through the same silt bed that just trapped your fancy 4 wheel drive for the last hour…

So what has created all the renewed interest in overlanding today? You’ll probably be surprised by the answer, but it happens to be technology. While that may seem like some type of an oxymoron, it’s actually the existence of current technology that makes getting away from it all easier than ever. The ability for primitive man to use fire was revolutionary to survival. Today, it’s the satellite, the cell phone, and solar panels. Current explorers may not even own a flannel shirt. They have technologically advanced clothing that keeps them warm, or wicks the sweat from their bodies to keep them cool. Satellites give you your current location, and detailed information about what lies on the other side of that ridge ahead of you. They also allow you to make phone calls from just about anywhere. Even without a satellite phone, cell phone communication continues to expand. Proposals have been put forth to go completely nationwide by using the commercial airplanes flying overhead as mobile hotspots. Being able to connect to the internet from almost anywhere has led to people working remotely, myself included. This frees them up to travel full time. Many full time travelers make their living by sharing videos of their adventures on the internet; technology at work again.

Watch Brad from Trail Recon catalog one of many overland adventures in his Jeep JK Wrangler:

The one thing that most of us just can’t live without is power to run our electronic devices. You can’t make videos, call anyone, or check on your current location without electricity. The accessibility of inexpensive, and reliable solar power has allowed people to roam freely, and to live off the grid. 12 volt appliances, low draw LED lighting, compact electronic devices, and the continuing advances in vehicle technology have made it possible for us to get out to remote locations while being safe and comfortable.

As more people head out to remote locations, they will no longer be remote. You can see this phenomena happening right now. As with any trend, I predict that some people will want to go against the crowd. We may see a return to actually roughing it outdoors. The purists will travel in a vintage truck with a tent, and wear flannel shirts around the camp fire again.

Leaf Springs vs Suspension Links

Let’s be specific, and talk about leaf springs versus suspension links with a solid axle. You may have a straight axle in one end of your 4×4 or both, and it could have a combination of links with leaf springs, all leaf springs, or all links front and rear. Both leaf springs and suspension links have their strengths, and weaknesses. Depending on several factors, either design might be right for you, so we’ll take a look at both. 

There are all kinds of link configurations in use. Links can take the form of radius arms, be used in a combination of 4 links, or 3 links, and include wishbones, or panhard bars to center the axle. There is even a unique watts link design, but it is rarely used on a 4×4 because of its limited suspension travel. The job of the links are to locate the axle; that’s it. Some designs will have the shocks and/or springs mounted to the link, but that’s an added function. The link’s main role is to attach the axle to the chassis, and allow it to articulate. 

Linked designs use a coil spring to support the weight of the vehicle. Coil springs can be mounted independently of the shock, or they can be combined in a coilover shock. The coilover shock is a fantastic design because it is compact, and easy to mount. There are no spring retainers or coil buckets needed, only a single bolt on each end. The distinction of a coil spring is important because a coil behaves much differently than a leaf spring. First let’s talk about spring rate. The amount of weight it takes to deflect a spring one inch is the rate of the spring. If it is 100 pounds then for each inch the spring is compressed, it generates 100 more pounds of resistance. To compress it 2 inches, it takes 200 pounds of force. If the coil is wound consistently throughout its length, then it is a single rate coil. Its spring rate is linear. The 100 pounds per inch does not vary. 

Linked designs use a coil spring to support the weight of the vehicle.

There are progressive rate coil springs too. They have a few closely wound coils at one end and then wider, equally spaced coils at the other end. The closely wound coils compress at a different rate than the widely spaced ones. Dual rate coil springs are used in some factory based designs. With coilover shocks, the way to create a progressive spring rate is to stack them together. A short stiff spring stacked on a longer, more flexible spring will give you a spring combination that changes rate as it compresses. It’s easy to swap coils to fine tune the rate. You can also adjust the spring rate by introducing preload to the coil spring or springs. If you compress the coil one inch in our 100 pound example, the resistance will already be 200 pounds while the vehicle is at rest.  

On a leaf spring, the rate is progressive due to the multi-leaf design. The more you compress it, the higher the rate goes. Leaf springs work together as a single unit. Each spring is designed to work with the next leaf in the stack. It’s much more difficult to adjust them without the entire leaf pack being removed, and disassembled. Leaf springs can also suffer from spring wrap. Under hard acceleration or braking, the spring can wrap around the axle causing the axle to twist. The twisting can negatively affect traction, and abruptly changes the pinion angle which strains the driveshaft u-joints. A linked suspension will resist this condition because the links don’t flex. With leaf springs, there is no way to introduce preload to the spring. For ease of tuning, the coil spring wins.    

Leaf springs have been used since roman times so they are well understood.

The use of a coil is a huge advantage in the link design, but a linked suspension is much more complicated than the leaf spring design; especially if you are retrofitting it onto an existing leaf spring vehicle. It will take extensive fabrication, and a good understanding of suspension geometry. If you are building a 4 link design, the links take up a lot of space which means you will be doing extensive cutting, and relocating to make room. Most people who do a link conversion in the rear cut the entire back half of the frame off, and rebuild it from scratch to work with the link geometry. You can also forget about hauling much in the bed as that space is now taken up by the upper links. It depends on the link design you are using, but typically the longer the links are, the more suspension travel you can get. The linked design also offers more articulation. These attributes affect other assemblies on your vehicle like the steering linkage and the drive shaft, so they all have to be designed to work together. From a purely performance standpoint, the linked design wins again. 

It would seem like a linked suspension is the way to go, so why are leaf springs still in use? Leaf springs have their own benefits that make them desirable. Leaf springs are simple to produce, and easy to mount. Leaf springs have been used since roman times so they are well understood. Not only do they support the weight of the vehicle, but they also locate the axle housing. They are very compact when compared with a link design. They are mounted towards the end of the axle housing for stability, so the room between the springs can be used for other components like the engine up front, and gas tanks in the rear. Those components can be located lower in the chassis to keep the center of gravity low to the ground. It also means that a truck bed or cargo area of an SUV can be roomier inside. Because of the leaf springs progressive spring rate, they are much better suited to supporting varying loads. If you drive your truck empty all week, but use a slide in camper on weekends, leaf springs can handle the variation with little or no modifications. The same goes for towing. The stability that a leaf spring design provides helps substantially while towing. 

If you want a performance based vehicle for rock crawling, or high speed running in the desert, a linked suspension is your best bet. If you need utility for towing, or hauling heavy loads, leaf springs are the way to go.       

What Is Overlanding?

One of the fastest growing trends over the last several years has been the Overlanding craze. The off-road community has always been segregated by brand loyalty, and region. You have the Jeep crowd, who doesn’t hang out with the Toyota owners, who shake their heads at the full size truck owners, who think Jeeps are impractical and silly. In places like Florida, which are mostly flat, and covered by swamps, tall trucks are all the rage. On the tight, steep trails found in the mountainous areas of the country, every inch of lift comes with a penalty due to a higher center of gravity. The dune enthusiasts are another subset of off-road, as are the prerunners. Most prerunners are 2 wheel drive, so they have to keep moving fast or risk getting stuck. That’s ridiculous to the Jeep crowd who love to crawl along with their multiple transfer cases because one transfer case just isn’t slow enough.

They are all separate groups who exist in their own niche. Along comes overlanding which can include all those groups. Overlanding can be done in a camper shell, or a 300,000 dollar rolling condo with satellite, a garage, and a marble backsplash in the kitchen. Overlanding is not camping in campgrounds; it’s boondocking, but with the emphasis on traveling. The one thing that all overlanders share is the ability to travel off the beaten path while being self-sustained. The only difference is how comfortable you want to be. 

Choosing your Overlanding Vehicle 

Do you want creature comforts, or off-road ability? If you are overlanding in a region that has very primitive roads, a smaller vehicle makes a lot of sense. If you go this route, you will have to travel light. Lots of thought will go into the gear you choose to bring. Will you be able to resupply on the road? If you are planning a long trip with limited access to supplies, a larger vehicle makes more sense. Eventually though, you will have the same issue with storage space, and weight capacity, regardless of the vehicle you choose. The bigger you go, the more you have to think about mobility, and fuel mileage.

You have to consider the needs of the vehicle, as well as the inhabitants. You should have spare parts, tools, vital fluids, and the ability to perform repairs in primitive conditions. Spares are the bare minimum. Having the added insurance of compressed air, onboard welders, or a bicycle, moped or motorcycle as a backup is not uncommon. Some people would rather invest in a satellite phone than to carry spares, and learn how to fix things. Whichever plan you devise, being prepared will be the difference between a survival situation, and an inconvenience when you run into trouble.

Basic Needs

Venturing into the wilderness should not be taken lightly. Your first priority should be basic human needs. You need proper clothing, shelter, food, and water in order to survive. If you are traveling in an area that has abundant water, you can get away with carrying less onboard, as long as you have a way to purify it for drinking. There are many types of filters available that run the range from straws, all the way up to multi-stage reverse osmosis systems that can be incorporated into your rig. In drier conditions, you will have to bring your own. You will need water for your body, and for your vehicle. Water is the most important thing for survival. 

Can you afford to go without cooked food for a couple days if the weather turns awful?

Food will run the spectrum depending on your cooking equipment and whether you have refrigeration. You can survive on dry goods, but having great food to eat makes any excursion much more enjoyable. Unless you have tons of power available for an induction cooktop, most cooking will be done on a camp fire, or on some type of stove with an open flame. Another option is a solar oven. Solar ovens can be broken down for transport, and use the power of the sun to cook your food so no fuel is used. All you need is direct sunlight. 

There are many 12 volt compressor refrigerators on the market that use minimal power, and will keep perishable foods cold. They can be powered with a generator, or solar power which is very popular. Ice chests are ok for a couple days, but anyone will tell you, they are terrible to deal with in the long run. Soggy food from melting ice is unappetizing to say the least, and usually ends up in the trash. Many travelers have an outdoor kitchen. This is preferable to keep the mess, and smells out of your sleeping quarters, but only in perfect weather. Can you afford to go without cooked food for a couple days if the weather turns awful? Rain or snow can be mitigated by a canopy, but if you add wind to the mix, it might make cooking outside impossible. 

That brings us to the matter of clothing, and shelter. People die from exposure to the elements. You need to maintain your body’s temperature; too hot, too cold or being wet, can have dire results. Roof top tents are very popular because they collapse for travel, and get you up off the ground, but it’s still a tent. Pouring rain, or gale force winds get old really quick when you are sleeping in a tent. Having a dry, protected shelter in inclement weather is important. Having extra space to relax, change clothes, do some chores or get some work done is added luxury. 

A comfortable overlanding vehicle should provide all of these essentials. It should have off-road capabilities, ample storage, power, a kitchen, and a bathroom. It should be able to pack everything in, and get it back out again without drama. There is an ongoing debate whether overlanding is just glorified camping. It does share many similarities, but I think it differs once you build in the systems and components that are necessary for long term, unassisted travel. You can throw an ice chest into the bed of your truck, and spend a few nights in the wilderness, but if you are boondocking for 3 weeks in the desert, you need a little more. Once you have a dedicated, live aboard vehicle, you have gone beyond camping, and into the overlanding zone.  

The Top 5 Underrated Off-Road Mods and Why You Need Them

We’ve all seen the mall-crawler trucks and SUV’s roaming the streets. Built with a credit card and a catalog, they look impressive to the average person, but to an enthusiast, they are quickly scoffed at. Huge tires on stock axles, and enough LED’s to light up a runway. They are bedazzled with spare gas cans, or a shiny new shovel that’s never been used. To be honest, many are nice looking, but most would fail miserably when put to the task. The ironic thing is that their owners have spent thousands of dollars on the look, without gaining performance.

You want rubber on the rocks and mud, not your fancy rims.

In the dirt where it counts, most factory stock vehicles are fairly capable, but they are designed as a compromise. Occupant comfort and fuel economy are major factors to designers. Since most vehicles spend a majority of time on the pavement, hard core off-road parts don’t take precedence. Thankfully, there are modifications you can make that will enhance your off-road capabilities without going overboard. We’ll share our top 5 off-road mod picks.

Number one has to be tires. Think about it. Your tires are the only contact you have with the terrain; they need to provide traction for acceleration, braking, and steering. The huge wheels with low-profile tires might look cool, but they don’t provide the benefits of a taller side wall. You want rubber on the rocks and mud, not your fancy rims. The number one factor determining the diameter of your wheels will be clearance around your brake components. On most trucks, a 16 or 17 inch wheel is plenty. Bigger, and wider tires will affect several factors. You will gain traction, stability, and ground clearance, but they will compromise your fuel mileage, turning radius, and your gearing. If you go too big, your truck will be a dog, and no fun to drive. You also need to have the clearance to fit that big rubber. That brings us to number two.

Whether you lift your truck or not is a major decision. If you are driving through swamps in Florida, or rock crawling out west, you might need some lift. In the mountains it may be the last thing you need to do. The swampers need as much lift as possible, while rock crawlers will want articulation as opposed to just height. If you regularly wheel in the mountains on tight, off-camber trails, a leveling kit or 2 inch lift is probably the most you want. Keep in mind, the taller you go, the more sacrifices you will be making. You will be punching a much bigger hole through the air, and you must be willing to forgo car washes, parking structures, drive thru’s or even your own garage.

This is where many people go off the rails. Your lighting has to be functional.

Number one, and number two will get you to more places off-road. Number three will get you back. 99 percent of the time factory trucks will not have any decent anchor points on the vehicle. The farther off the beaten path you travel, the greater the chance you have of getting stuck. Even if you have a winch, you will need anchor points on your truck. You do have a snatch strap, don’t you? Having a trailer hitch on the back is a great mod because it does double duty. You can tow, you can carry stuff with it, and it’s a solid anchor point. Up front you need to add something to pull on. A lot of trucks have hooks on the front, but many times they are for lashing the truck down during shipping, not for pulling out a stuck rig. They are known to fail. Anything you add will need to tie directly into the frame.

Number 4 is lighting. This is where many people go off the rails. Your lighting has to be functional. Many people emulate their Trophy Truck racing heroes and install incredibly bright (and expensive), off-road lighting. The technology available today is nothing short of amazing, but some of it is way overkill. Trophy Truck drivers need to illuminate the trail ahead at speeds in excess of 100 miles per hour. Will you be traveling that fast? You need to realize huge lights that send a beam out for 2 miles will limit when and where you can use them. No way can they be used on the street. Even off-road you will be shutting them off for the safety of others. Sometimes all you need are better bulbs in your factory head lights. Most of you will add wide angle lights, strategically placed on your vehicle. It’s good to have some bright lights shining ahead, but you also need light to the sides, and behind you. Backing up when your windows, and mirrors are covered in mud is not fun, especially when it’s completely dark behind you. You’ll want at least one flood light out back that lights up the ground, and the surroundings. The rear light can also be used when loading gear, or hitching up a trailer. Don’t forget the sides of your truck either.

When traveling down a trail at night, your headlights and/or driving lights are shining ahead. They don’t shed much light to the side of the truck. If you are searching for a side road to take, you will never see it. Known by many as “ditch lights” they can be mounted to the front bumper, on a light bar, or the windshield pillar. Ditch lights can also be used to light up your campsite, or when offering assistance on the trail. A set of rock lights will illuminate the undercarriage, and something portable is always useful. Whatever you decide to run as far as lighting goes, make sure you do a proper wiring job so they remain reliable. There are several products on the market that supply a separate dedicated power source for additional electronic components. They work well when adding lights.

There are countless off-road mods that will enhance your vehicle like extending your axle breather tubes to keep water out of your differentials, a more powerful alternator, additional fluid coolers, skid plates, or running an extra battery as a back-up, but the number 5 most underrated mod would have to be organization. You will need to carry spare parts, tools, food, drinks, clothing, bedding, the list is long. Having an organized truck with good storage makes every task easier. It also makes your truck safer. Loose gear in your truck can shift the weight enough to cause a tip over. It can break a window, or injure an occupant. Make sure you have heavy things tied down, and loose parts contained at all times.

These 5 off-road mods might not make you a hero at the mall, but will help you to have a safe enjoyable trip off-road.

What Are Beadlocks?

What are beadlocks, and what do they do? You might have heard the term beadlock used or seen the unique wheels on an offroad vehicle. Beadlock wheels are used in several types of racing, especially on dirt. Their look is distinctive due to the circle of bolt heads that run around the face of the outer rim. They look so good that many wheel manufacturers have copied the look without using the actual locking bead design. It gives any vehicle a purpose-built offroad appearance.

Real beadlock wheels provide an important function; they keep the tire bead locked to the rim. Typically the air pressure in your tires forces the tire bead into the lip on the wheel creating a seal that holds the air pressure in the tire. That design works well on the pavement where full air pressure is needed. When air pressure is too low on pavement, excessive heat is created, and tire failure is possible. Offroad vehicles sometimes run lower air pressure in the tires to allow a much larger contact patch on the ground; increasing traction. In deep sand and snow, the larger contact patch helps the tire to float on top instead of digging in which can get you stuck. Lower air pressures offroad will also give you a smoother ride, and allow the tire to flex over sharp rocks. A little give in the tire can prevent punctures from sharp rocks, especially in the sidewall. When rubber goes against rock, the rock usually wins. If you are going to run lower pressures, a beadlock wheel is necessary to prevent the tire from spinning on the wheel, or from losing air pressure all together. Once the tire bead becomes unseated, the tire can get damaged, and all traction is lost. If the tire comes apart, it can wrap around the suspension, rip off your brake line, or cause other damage to your shocks, steering, or body panels.

There are several types of beadlock wheels available. The most common style is the bolt-on outer ring. This style has a machined lip on the outside of the rim to locate the tire bead. Once the tire is slid onto the wheel, the outside tire bead rests on the machined lip. The locking ring then goes on top. Bolting the ring to the wheel clamps the tire bead to the rim and creates an air tight seal.

Military wheels use a different design. Instead of the ring clamping the bead to the wheel, they are more of a two-piece wheel with a cylinder that slides over the barrel of the rim. The tire goes on the wheel first. Then the cylinder is slid over the wheel inside the tire. When the outer rim half is bolted down, it clamps the inner cylinder between both inner and outer beads of the tire. The width of the inner cylinder needs to be matched to the thickness of the tire beads in order to work as desired.

Similar to the military style in concept, as it clamps both beads to the rim, a third design uses an inflatable bladder inside the tire. The bladder sits inside the tire on the barrel of the rim. Once inflated, it pushes out on both tire beads. This style can be used on most non-beadlock wheels. All that is needed is another valve stem added to the wheel in order to fill the bladder.

No mention of beadlocks is complete without discussing the elephant in the room. Every automotive forum online has a thread discussing whether or not beadlocks are street legal. Maybe the confusion comes from the old style wheels known as split rims. Split rims have a ring that sits between the tire bead, and a slight lip on the outside of the wheel. Air pressure seats the split ring against the lip on the rim. Split rims are notorious for coming apart when air pressure pumps up the tire. When they were used, the rim and tire were placed in a steel cage to contain the flying parts if the ring flew off. People were injured; even killed by split rims. That’s why they were phased out. The split rim is still used on heavy equipment tires, but you will not find them on anything but vintage vehicles. Most tire shops refuse to work on them. Tire shops don’t like beadlocks either, but one of the benefits of the beadlock design is that you can mount tires without any special equipment.

Beadlock rings are not illegal, but they can be dangerous if proper diligence is not used.

Generally, there are no laws that specifically outlaw beadlock wheels. At the same time, they do not satisfy the standards that have been adopted by many wheel manufacturers due to their multi-piece design. Beadlock rings are not illegal, but they can be dangerous if proper diligence is not used. Care needs to be taken during assembly. If the bolts are overtightened they can stretch, and fail. If they are not tight enough, the tire can move, and lose pressure. It’s important to tighten the bolts evenly, and to the correct torque value. Each manufacturer has their own standards depending on the bolts used, and the construction of the wheel. Some beadlock wheels have threaded steel inserts for the bolts. Other wheels have been heat treated to a condition that makes the aluminum able to hold a thread. Of course, there are steel beadlock wheels as well. If the tire bead is very thick, spacers may be needed between the rim and the beadlock ring. You don’t want a gap between the ring and the wheel as the tire bead can still flex. The bolts need to have the proper torque on them in order to work. If the bolts fail, the ring can fly off; a dangerous condition.

Once you get the hang of it though, it’s really simple. That’s another benefit of the beadlock design. If you get a flat tire, you can take the wheel apart, patch the tire, and then put it back together in the field. It will take some work; most beadlock wheels have 20 to 30 bolts. Another benefit of the ring style beadlock is the ring itself. It adds strength to the outer lip of the wheel. If you are grinding your wheels in the rocks all the time, you can replace the rings when they get gouged or worn down. When you look at the pros, and cons, beadlocks have a lot to offer on an offroad vehicle.

Can the Mint 400 Really Be the Greatest Damn Thing Ever Seen?

That’s what Sahara Hotel President Earl Thompson proclaimed from the finish line back in 1968. It was the second running of the race, and it was a brutal one. Most of the cars and trucks entered were strewn across the desert in various states of disrepair. What kind of race would it be if nobody finished?

Just as it began to look dim for the future of the event, Thompson’s bold proclamation swayed the race promoters to stay the course. Thompson was not alone in his exuberance for the challenge. The Mint 400 exploded in popularity over the next several years, and came to be known as “The Great American Offroad Race.”

The Mint 400 was popular for 2 reasons. The first was a contingency, which is held before the race to inspect the vehicles. The contingency was an epic party, even for Las Vegas.

Held on Fremont Street, known as “Glitter Gulch” at the time, the festivities included all the trappings of Vegas: booze, women, gambling, and revelry. Packed with cars, and fans from all over the world, they all came to “the Mint” to celebrate desert racing.

The contingency was an epic party, even for Las Vegas.

One of those revelers was writer Hunter S. Thompson. He was hired by Sports Illustrated in 1971 to write photo captions for the Mint 400 race. His original 2,500-word manuscript submitted to Sports Illustrated was “aggressively rejected,” but Rolling Stone Magazine liked it enough to publish it.

His notes later became a novel that chronicled his personal debauchery. Anyone who has read the book wonders what he turned into Sports Illustrated. His novel; Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, was made into a movie in 1998 starring Johnny Depp, and Benicio Del Toro.

After the partying at contingency is over, competitors have 400 miles of rugged terrain outside the city to contend with. The silty, and rocky terrain offered the ultimate challenge for offroaders. It is always said that just finishing offroad races is an accomplishment. At the Mint 400, it was never truer.

Egged on by thousands of spectators who crowded around the known spots for action, racers went huge in extremely primitive vehicles. The race vehicles of the time might have had stronger parts, or multiple shocks, but in comparison to the sophisticated vehicles of today, were insanely unsuited for that type of punishment. The brutal terrain and aggressive driving forged heroes, and created legends.

The race was conceived by The Mint hotel owner Del Webb, and hotel executive Norm Johnson to draw people to Las Vegas. In its prime, the race was huge, but after Del Webb sold The Mint in 1988, the race began to wane.

The brutal terrain and aggressive driving forged heroes, and created legends.

The new owners were just not as enamored with offroad racing. The name was changed to the Nissan 400 before it ceased to exist altogether in 1989.

The race was dormant for nearly 20 years until the Southern Nevada Offroad Enthusiasts group brought it back in 2008. In 2012, the naming rights were purchased by the Martelli Brothers who teamed with the Best in the Desert racing organization to put on the race. The Martelli’s have an appreciation for what the race once was. They labored diligently to restore the Mint 400’s place in the offroad world.

Contingency returned to Fremont Street, and the crowds returned. The party was back, and better than ever. The race now occupies nearly an entire week with a parade down the strip, pit crew competition, time trials, 2 days of contingency, and 2 more days of racing. This year they brought the bikes back; the first time they raced at the Mint since 1977.

For those of us who attended the original, the race was still missing one element. It was moved to an existing course south of town instead of the traditional north course that was so brutal. The unlimited classes get a taste of the north course during time trials, but the races are held south of town on a course that has dry lake beds, and river washes. It’s just not the same as the pile of rocks to the north. It is still rough in the south, but not nearly as bad.

This year’s race got a boost by Mother Nature. Heavy rains changed the game. Typically they bulldoze the course before the race, making much of it flat and featureless. The rains did what they typically do in the desert, they modified the landscape.

They crushed wheels, broke suspension parts, and had racers deviating from the favored line to avoid them.

The water washed the top layer of soil away, exposing the rocks. There were still deep sandy sections filled with whoops, and the dry lake beds that had racers bumping off the rev limiter, but the rocks were ruthless.

They crushed wheels, broke suspension parts, and had racers deviating from the favored line to avoid them. It became a driver’s race that required skill, as well as brute strength. The race finally had everything that the original delivered. Some might not have liked it, but in order to be “The Great American Race”, it needs to be the most challenging, and likewise, the most rewarding.

No racer was rewarded more than overall winner Justin Lofton. His win was his third at the Mint; the only driver to ever reach that milestone. If you ask Lofton, the many spectators, or the other racers who merely made it to the finish about what they think, they might just say that the 2019 Mint 400 was the greatest damn thing ever.

Going Big: A General Guide to 40-Inch Off-Road Tires

Going off-roading means you need 40-inch tires, right? Well, it depends. There are some things you need to take into consideration before going oversized.

First, we must confess that this is a bit of a generalization. What we’ll be discussing here might not be exactly what your truck or SUV needs to make that jump to a 40-inch tire. For example, your rig might come with axles strong enough to turn a 40-inch tires without breaking the splines or itself in half. You might be able to remove your fenders on your Jeep but the guy in the F150 can’t.

If you’re just a mall crawler, you might be fine with mostly stock stuff, but if you do go off-road, you’ll need upgrades. So, this will be a guide of things to take into consideration before plunking down cash on those big tires. We won’t touch on anything specific to any single vehicle.

Let’s start with the thing everyone points out as the first thing to change or at least modify: your axles. First, why? Why do you need to consider your axle when changing to larger diameter tires? Much of it has to do with the diameter and additional weight of the tires. Yes, you need to re-gear (and recalibrate your speedometer) to overcome the increased overall gear ratio. A 33-inch tire will have a rollout of 103.7-inches and will rotate 630 times per mile.

A 40-inch tire, on the other hand, will have a rollout of 125.7-inches and will rotate 517 times per mile and means you are going further on each rotation. By changing to a taller tire, you’ve essentially increased your overall gear ratio and will be showing a slower speed than what you’re actually doing. So, if you were doing 65-MPH with a 33×12.50, you’ll be doing nearly 80-MPH with a 40×13.50 while still showing 65-MPH.

…if you’re going with big tires, most likely plan on going with bigger axles at the same time.

This means you would not only have to recalibrate your speedometer but also need to re-gear to keep the engine RPMs close to the same for the corrected speed. Fortunately, there are many online calculators to help you determine what gear you need for the tire size increase as well as handheld tuners that allow you to recalibrate your speedometer for your tire size and gearing.

That won’t be the only problems with your axles, though. Because of the increased weight, you’ve also increased the rotational mass and resistance to rotation. This means you’ll need more torque and you’ll do that by adding power or decreasing your gear ratio or both. This increases stress on the axles and usually leads to failure at the splines and axle shafts on straight axles and, additionally, failure of U-joints or constant velocity joints on independent axles. So, if you’re going with big 40-inch tires, most likely plan on going with bigger axles at the same time.

You’ll probably want to invest in new driveshafts, as those will be the next weakest links when it comes to transferring torque to your axles. Most truck and SUV transmissions and transfer cases can operate fine with big tires, but you’ll want to inspect them more often or consider a swap out for heavier-duty versions from the aftermarket. You won’t necessarily need an Atlas or even an NP205, but definitely look for upgrades for your chain-driven New Process transfer case that will allow it to handle more torque. However, if you have a regular NP241, get something better or at least an NP241HD.

You’ll need a lift, even if you already have a 2- or even 3-inch lift you’ll need to go a bit higher to clear the tires. This is where an IFS suspension starts to lose its advantages as you raise the truck higher, it will continue to ruin the steering and feel of the truck or SUV. You’ll also wear parts out much quicker because of the stresses and the increased load of the lift as well as the tires.

…it’s probably best for only hardcore off-road rigs and showboaters.

You’re looking at a custom suspension regardless if you stay with your IFS or swap the front to a solid axle. For the rear with leaf springs, you’ll be able to find re-arched springs for a decent lift without needing to resort to a huge block for sprung-over axles (where leaf sits on top of the axle). For sprung-under, you’ll have to convert it to sprung-over or you’ll have arches so large it will be pointless.

If you don’t lift, the body will need extensive modification for a 40-inch tire to work. If you don’t want to cut sheet metal, your only other option will be to replace it with fiberglass parts made for prerunners and desert trucks. If you cut metal, most states will require you to have something to cover the tires and have clearance lights on fender extensions to remain legal. Easy to do on a Jeep, not so easy to accomplish on anything with a regular body.

You’ll also have to make sure the wheels you use to give you the right backspacing (offset) to clear those very wide tires. The rear can typically be more aggressive than the front and can get away with higher backspacing (lower offset). The fronts, however, need to be spaced so that you can turn properly and not rub the frame or suspension components. Again, in many states, there are also legal issues with tires rubbing the body and chassis.

Running 40-inch tires isn’t easy, in fact, it’s probably best for only hardcore off-road rigs and showboaters. It’s not impossible to run that big of a tire, but there are many, many things you need to consider before doing it. This is just a short list as there are explicit things you need to do to specific vehicles to run tires this big. The best piece of advice we can give you is to research. Look for who’s done it with a vehicle like yours and see the trials and tribulations they had to go through to make it work. Then, decide if you’re willing to do the same.

If not, there’s nothing wrong with running 35s on your truck, SUV or Jeep and they are plenty capable. Just ask the guys who race in the Ultra4 Every Man Challenge.

This Toyota Tacoma Build Is Ready for Anything

Venturing far off the beaten path takes preparation. The farther you wander from civilization, the more you need to be self-sufficient. The saying goes that two is one, and one is none, but it’s also easy to go overboard with parts and equipment. You can get so overloaded, you lose efficiency. Building something that has everything you need, and nothing you don’t takes careful execution.

One such truck that hits the mark is Noah Voloshin’s Toyota Tacoma. Amazingly it’s his first build, but he learned a lot helping friends on their vehicles. When it came time for his own, he knew exactly what he wanted. Everywhere you look on this truck you see the details that make it special. The quality of the components stand out, but the way they are so cleanly integrated into the truck really sets it apart.

If you look closely you will also notice the scratches and patina that lets you know this Tacoma is the real deal. Those don’t detract from the truck, they are like badges of honor. Souvenirs from a do or die rock climb, an overgrown goat trail, or a night spent hunkered down in the dirt during gale force winds.

Judging by the raw aluminum exposed on the beadlock rings of Noah’s Method Race Wheels, the aggressive tread design that wraps down onto the sidewalls of his Milestar Patagonia M/T tires has come in handy. Those gouges had to have come from big rocks, deep sand or course mud; all areas where the Patagonia M/T’s shine. They have taken everything Mother Nature has dished out.

They have taken everything Mother Nature has dished out.

Keeping the tires planted on the Tacoma is made possible by a custom suspension based on Total Chaos upper control arms in front, and Deaver progressive leaf springs in the rear; all damped by King Shocks.

It’s obvious that Noah’s Tacoma isn’t afraid to conquer tough terrain, so having the protection that covers both sides, front and rear is a must. Up front, a C4 Fab full plate front bumper provides protection while blending seamlessly with the DB Customz fab grill, and factory sheet metal.

The Tacoma’s bumper is loaded with essentials like recovery rings, and a Warn Zeon 12s platinum winch. It also mounts a full complement of Baja Designs LED lights. A light bar, fog lights, and ditch lights at each corner give Noah specific lighting for all conditions. His custom lighting covers the entire truck with supplemented rack, rock, reverse, and recovery lights. Along both sides of the Tacoma are C4 Fab rock sliders, and Pelfreybilt skid plates protect underneath.

Outback is a C4 Fab high clearance rear bumper with swingout. In addition to the recovery points and LED lighting like the front, it also carries a full sized spare, 2 Rotopax fuel containers and sand ladders.

With everything to get there and back, it was time to outfit the Toyota Tacoma for gear and other essentials. An AFE intake supplies clean air to the engine. For electrical storage, dual Odyssey batteries are used. Noah also carries an ARB twin air compressor. In the cab is a Goose Gear seat delete, and National Luna fridge freezer.

…makes one want to head out to the boonies…

A Solo Motorsports jack mount keeps the jack secured, and Leitner Designs bed rack and storage pods stow additional gear. A Front Runner Outfitters roof rack offers even more utility and creature comforts are provided by an Alucab rooftop tent and side awning.

Looking at this Toyota Tacoma and learning about its capabilities makes one want to head out to the boonies without a care in the world for some rest and relaxation.

2019 King of the Hammers

It’s not often when something comes along that is an entirely new concept, especially in motorsports. The King of the Hammers race in Johnson Valley, California has done just that. It has spawned the Ultra4 series that holds events across the country and around the world. It combines the high-speed element found in desert offroad racing with the challenge of rock crawling in huge boulders. The result is rock racing, and the biggest rock racing event on the planet is King of the Hammers (KOH).

KOH draws people from all over the world. Every year an impromptu city appears on the Means Dry Lake in Johnson Valley. Tents and motorhomes spread out from the epicenter called Hammertown. Hammertown contains the competitor’s garages, vendor’s booths, the JumboTron, and the start/finish line. You could spend the entire week in Hammertown, and some do. Ultra4 sees to it that live cameras are spread around the course sending their feed to the internet, and the JumboTron in Hammertown.

The terrain out on the course is extremely rough, and some spots require a strenuous hike just to reach, so Ultra4 places cameras in those action-packed places. They even have some cameras set up on cables that run back and forth from one side of the canyon to the other.

…some spots require a strenuous hike just to reach.

The result is stunning footage with an incredible perspective. You can sit in your lawn chair and witness the action in some of the most remote locations on the course as it is happening. You will also be front and center when the finishers roll up on the podium and celebrate their success.

The attrition at this race is huge so just finishing within the time limit is a major accomplishment. In order to mix it up, the course changes every year. There are countless combinations of rock trails and desert tracks available to run.

…you can burn up your car before you even get to the rocks.

The challenge of each trail changes depending on whether they are racing uphill or down. The course will vary by the number of rock trails they do and the order in which they do them. The desert sections usually allow faster competitors to make their way to the front.

Despite a fast time in the desert, competitors still have hours of punishment in the rocks. The desert tests the car’s suspension, and the efficiency of all the moving parts at high speeds. If you get it wrong, you can burn up your car before you even get to the rocks. The drivers have to be sharp as well as the desert can lure you into complacency and then deliver a crushing blow. A flat tire can cost you precious time and many positions.

KOH has had several winners since its inception in 2007, but one can’t help to see that there is a group of elite that can win, and have won on a regular basis. There is a unique set of skills needed to come out on top. Randy Slawson (who won as a co-driver in 2007), Erik Miller, and Loren Healy have all been crowned King twice. Shannon Campbell and Jason Scherer have won 3 times. Scherer, this year’s King, has the additional distinction of having been the only driver to win back to back, as he was last year’s winner too.

They all share success, and they all have similar personalities. They are not demonstrative, or outrageous. They don’t engage in the braggadocio normally associated with motorsports. They do their talking when they get behind the wheel. Scherer is fast because he’s smooth. The same goes for Slawson and Miller.

They do their talking when they get behind the wheel.

They all have strong followings. Healy and Campbell are much more aggressive. Healy just refuses to lose, and the sight of his piercing red headlights coming closer strikes fear into the competition. Campbell is soft-spoken, but a beast behind the wheel.

When he comes within a mile of anyone, the typical reaction is to move back. Not because he’s out of control, it’s because what most people would think is an impossible line, Campbell sees as a bump in the road. His big, loud, black car, that he builds himself, is downright intimidating. While Scherer, Slawson, and Miller make it look easy, Healy and Campbell make it look incredible.

Any way you look at it, KOH is an event unlike any other. It’s the toughest single-day offroad race in the world and ranks right up there with the Dakar Rally, and the Baja 1000. It’s come a long way in just over 10 years and looks to continue its growth in the future. Will Campbell get the 4th win? Will Scherer cement his name in the record books with a 3rd straight win? It’s a safe bet that one of the other top contenders will eventually join the 3x club, but a fresh face might show up and add their name to the list of Kings. It’s anyone’s guess because the Hammers trails will always have the final say.

38 Inch Special:
A Guide to 38 Inch Tires

Go into any current forum or social media group for Jeeps and 4x4s and you will find the most frequently asked question is “How big of a tire can I fit on my *insert 4×4 here*?” The question is posed so frequently that the query is “stickied” to the top of the forum page with countless replies. “You can fit 35 inch tires if you have…” “37 inch tireswork, but only if you’ve done…” “You need tons in order to run 40 inch tires…” (“Tons” is shorthand for 1-ton axles sourced from a pickup). They’ve all been asked.

These seemingly universal 4×4 questions have been answered in their entirety, which we won’t get into here. The Jeep community has seen the 37×12.50R17 become the ubiquitous size on any new Jeep. Go back just over a decade and 37s were the extreme size tire to have and only a handful of brands to choose from. 33s and 35s were BIG, but 37s meant you were serious! So how did this desire for ever-larger tires come to be so common and why is there such a jump in size going from 37 inch tires to 40 inch tires with no choice in between?

In today’s tire world, nearly every tire manufacturer has an All-Terrain (A/T) and a Mud-Terrain (M/T) in a 33, 35, or 37 inch tire that fits on a 17 inch rim. These sizes have become a standard upgrade for several reasons. First is 4×4 vehicles are bigger than ever before with auto manufacturers adding extra space, seats, and cargo capacity. Second, with the added space and creature comforts comes the weight.

33s and 35s were BIG, but 37s meant you were serious!

Everything gets bigger from the drivetrain, axles, brakes, steering to handle the extra weight and still be a capable vehicle. This transition to more capacity and capability was lead by growing popularity in outdoor activities amongst families. With the vehicles and their components getting bigger and adding capability, enthusiasts took to modifying them with greater earnest and in greater numbers. One of the easiest ways to add capability is by gaining clearance through a larger tire size.

It can be argued that this rapid expansion in tire sizes was brought about by the advent of a single vehicle: the 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JK). It dropped the iconic Inline 6-Cylinder for a V-6 that was better suited to a minivan than a 4×4. The improved approach and departure angles showed enthusiasts that Jeep engineers were focused on making a capable vehicle.

But the one change that was seen as heresy initially and is now beloved: 4 full doors. Jeep aficionados scorned the longer Wrangler, thinking it more of a minivan than a true Jeep. But over time, the extra wheelbase lent itself to improved off-road capability, with the right modifications.

Chief among them: Larger tires. Tires are the only thing that connects the vehicle to the ground. They are the easiest and quickest way to gain ground clearance, improve approach and departure angles, and provide that oh-so-desirable “tough” aesthetic that many enthusiasts are after. But there is a canyon in terms of budgets between running a 40 inch tire and the ubiquitous 37 inch tire.

But the one change that was seen as heresy initially and is now beloved: 4 full doors.

40s are an average of 40-60% more expensive than their 37 inch tire counterparts, and a lot of expensive changes have to be made to the vehicle in order to reliably run a 40 INCH tire as well. So what does an owner do when they want more than their 37s, but can’t afford or justify the required upgrades for 40s? Enter the Milestar Patagonia 38 inch.

While the 38×13.50R17 is only one inch taller than its smaller sibling—the 37 inch, it pays off in ways that become greater than one would initially think. It poses less strain on the hard parts that turn and drive the tires when compared to 40 inch tires. The 38 inch tire size clears factory brackets and bumpers and keeps any sort of body modification to a minimum.

Wheel offset, suspension bump stops, steering, and fenders all can stay the same if the vehicle has been properly kitted for 37’s. Where 37’s provide a better “stance”, the 38 inch tire make the vehicle look like it has 40s. All of this is gained with a reasonable bump in price on just the tires. Not only is the 38 inch Patagonia M/T taller, but it’s a bit wider at 13.50 inch giving the wheeler that much more of a footprint.

The tires’ C-Load Range is also a nod to the recreational wheelers as it is commonly thought that having some sidewall give, while still being 3-ply, will allow the tire to “grab traction” or “bite” when aired down. This is further supported when one takes into consideration that tire manufacturers often modify the construction material of the plys depending upon the load the tire is expected to bear and how much air pressure it is rated for.

…the added capability of a 40-inch tire, without the 40-inch wallet.

Strength is upheld with the Patagonia, while being a more focused 4×4 product. At 82 pounds, the 38 inch Patagonia M/T’s optimized construction is shown as it is the same lighter weight as many of it’s 37 inch competitors. This is important because added unsprung weight negatively affects suspension performance and ride quality.

In addition, extra weight also brings down fuel economy and increases wear and tear on the drivetrain and steering components. The 38 inch Patagonia M/T is constructed to balance strength, size, and weight; all major factors when enthusiasts start their 4×4 project.

The 38 inch Milestar Patagonia M/T is the choice when one wants the added capability of a 40-inch tire, without the 40-inch wallet. It is tailor-made for the recreation wheeler with its strong, yet pliable sidewall, all-important 17″ wheel construction, and true 38 inch tire sizing. Your next question is simply where will you buy your set?

What Is the Every Man Challenge?

The Ultra4 Racing King of the Hammers (KOH) is the off-road experience you can’t miss out on, but there is a need to qualify for it. Fortunately, for those on a tighter budget, the Every Man Challenge is around to let stock and lightly modified rigs race on a similar course as the big one.

How The King of the Hammers Got Started

As cliché as it sounds, KOH started in 2007 with a group of guys lead by Dave Cole and Jeff Knoll who decided to have a race on a Friday in the middle of Means Dry Lake. From the group of 50 to 60 drivers that were sent invites, 12 drivers showed up with rock crawling rigs. They weren’t specialized as we see now, and many were just trucks built for fun and hobby driving. Some rigs just had air shocks and leaf springs, something you don’t see now except maybe in the 4600 Stock Class. Of the 12 racers that showed up, John Reynolds with Randy Slawson co-driving won the first ever KOH.

For years to come, the King of the Hammers was an invite-only event with NO media, spectators, and vendors. Of course, when you make something hard to get, you make more and more people want to join. As the race grew in spectacle and in the spotlight, more and more people wanted to enter the race with their own rigs, including stock and lightly modified vehicles.

The Every Man Challenge

In the middle of 2011, Ultra4 announced that a new event would take place the Monday before the 2012 King of the Hammers—the Smittybilt Every Man Challenge (EMC) now the 4WP Every Man Challenge. This was the opportunity for non-professional drivers to race on the same course as the big event but slightly modified for the smaller tire restrictions.

…it’s not impossible to race a street legal rock crawler and potentially win in Modified Class.

It was originally open to only 100 vehicles and the list was filled before the start of 2012. The entry list has increased over the years along with the addition of 2 more classes in 2014: the Legends Class for older 4400 cars that were not as competitive and a new Spec Class.

Can Someone Really Just Show Up and Run?

When it comes to the EMC at KOH, that’s somewhat how it works. Obviously, you still need to register but you can enter with your street-driven rig and race on a similar course to the Unlimited class in KOH. Doing this in the stock 4600 class is a little more realistic for a street-driven truck or Jeep, but it’s not impossible to race a street legal rock crawler and potentially win in Modified Class.

4600 Stock Class

The Stock class rules are simple—and probably the most restricted at the same time. You can basically run your trail rig as long as it meets the following characteristics: stock OEM frame, factory engine, factory transmission, 35-inch DOT tires, single 2.5-inch diameter shocks per corner and mechanical steering.

If you’re looking to make a better-than-stock rig, there are two classes for you:

4500 Modified Class

Essentially, the 4500 Modified class is the next step up from Stock. It’s limited in what you can do but it’s far more open and budget-friendly than the 4400s. It’s a 37-inch tall DOT tire class that also requires rigs to be steered directly by the driver. That means that there is no hydraulic steering, you’re not moving a valve to turn the tires. You can have a hydro-assist, but the steering wheel must be connected to a steering box that’s connected to the wheels.

…it’s far more brutal than the mileage indicates.

You’re also limited to two shocks per corner that are 2.65-inches in diameter with a stroke of 14-inches. They must also be connected directly to the axle, so you can’t make a cantilever suspension or anything that would give it a mechanical advantage to increase the suspension rate to increase wheel travel.

The biggest cost saver, though, is that the entry must be a production vehicle and the body must resemble an OEM body. There is also a limitation to what you can do to the frame. So, there needs to be something that replicates the cab, bed, doors, fenders, hood, and other body pieces that the original truck or SUV you’re entering as. They can be modified for clearance, but only enough for clearance. You can run any make engine and the only limitation is engine location; The rear of the engine block must be located in front of the furthest forward portion of the driver’s seat. Other than that, there isn’t much else limiting the Modified class.

4800 Legends Class

With the extreme advancement of the 4400 Class, a lot of rigs were made less competitive in a short amount of time. In recognition of that and wanting to give these rigs a place to run, the Legends class was created to allow these rigs to race. These rigs are limited to a two-seater rig with a front-engine, single shock per corner, solid axles, and 37-inch DOT tires. Other than that, there isn’t much limiting the 4800s and they are a call back to the early years of KOH.

This technically makes the 4800s a much easier step up to the 4400 class and the King of the Hammers. Adding a set of longer shocks and bigger tires for that race can make these rigs rather competitive against the 4400s. Many 4800s have been rebuilt to 4400 rules without much modification, thus making them an economical way to go from EMC to KOH. Well, relatively economical considering you’re still building a $300,000 to $500,000-plus vehicle for either class. To date, though, no rig has won the EMC and the KOH in the same week.

It’s A Start

What’s great about the Every Man Challenge, it gives those who aspire to race in the King of the Hammers a place to run and prepare themselves for that big race. Even though it may be shorter than most open desert races, it’s far more brutal than the mileage indicates.

They don’t call it the Hammers for nothing.

What’s even better, anyone can enter. If you’ve got a stock, leaf-spring truck that you drive on the road but want to race it, you have a place in the EMC and the 4600 Stock Class. Even though it is the slowest class, it is the one where you’ll learn the most about Johnson Valley and the rock features they race on.

At the very least, you get a chance to race on a compact version of the course that makes up the King of the Hammers. While having a huge budget is nice, the King of the Hammers and EMC is quite possibly the last race where you can drive your vehicle to the event, race in it, and possibly drive back home if you haven’t completely torn your vehicle to shreds. However, you might want to bring a trailer just in case.

They don’t call it the Hammers for nothing.

Is Dan Fresh’s JL Wrangler the Perfect Combination of Form and Function?

When the 2018 JL Wrangler debuted, the Jeep-world went into a frenzy. Vehicle sales were busy, just as many expected. The aftermarket parts industry spared no time getting started with the design and production of new parts. The new model is extremely capable and stylish, something Dan Fresh of OC Motorsports in Costa Mesa, California wanted to be on the forefront of.

Dan and his crew at OC Motorsports transformed a stock 2018 JL Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon into an upscale culmination of form and function. The team worked with many industry-leading aftermarket parts companies to design a Jeep that could hold its own on the 2018 SEMA Show floor and also be used as a flagship for OC Motorsports events, all while also set to be a dependable race support vehicle.

Dan Fresh is a racer at heart. Over the years, he has been heavily involved and raced in trophy trucks, Jeepspeed, Ultra 4 and many more facets of the racing world. That meant straight from the start that this Jeep would be top shelf.

For any performance vehicle to work as it should, it needs to have great components. Dan and his team worked closely with Fox Factory to set the Jeep up with a full round of newly designed 3.0 Internal Bypass Shocks. The massive shocks also feature finned aluminum recirculating reservoirs with DSC Adjusters for quick tuning.

Shocks like those need to have some grunt supporting them. A Savvy Off Road 3.5-inch suspension lift was installed, including adjustable control arms along with a Currie Enterprises Antirock anti-sway bar in the rear.

The new suspension gave clearance for a healthy set of 40-inch Milestar Patagonia M/Ts, wrapped around matte black 17-inch Method Trail Series 701 wheels. A combination that gives the vehicle both the ground clearance, stance, and raw gripping power a true performer demands. Because the Jeep often goes from off-road to the street and back again, an Innovative JK Products ARB Under Seat Mount with Air Up and Air Down Kit was installed.

The Rubicon differentials were treated to a pair of Dana 44 AdvanTek covers to protect the gears and lockers. The Jeep’s steering linkage was swapped for a Synergy Heat Treated Chromoly Tie Rod and Drag Link kit with the support of a Fox Factory ATS steering stabilizer system. The power and torque are brought to the differentials via a pair of JE Reel 1350 CV Driveshafts.

Attention was also put on the body of the vehicle. Protecting the rails are Rock Slide Engineering Step Sliders with automatic steps. A Savvy high clearance rear bumper was installed, along with a spare tire/camera delete kit. The front received a prototype Savvy Hidden Winch Bumper with Hoop for Dan to test out on the trails and race courses. The body wrap was installed by Versatile Wraps.

Desert racing and adventures require light when the sun goes down and when the unforgiving terrain doesn’t let up. To battle the darkness, a host of Baja Designs LP9 and XL80 LED lights were installed.

The powertrain has been left mostly stock for now, save for a MagnaFlow Rock Crawler Stainless Exhaust System. Though, with the immense capabilities of the OC Motorsports team, there shouldn’t be any surprise if a HEMI V8 finds its way under the hood in the future.

The amount of work done to Dan’s JL is impressive, even more so in that it was all completed in a matter of two days. After proudly standing tall at the 2018 SEMA Show, the Jeep has been on numerous customer appreciation trail runs, desert race testing trips and regularly driven on the street for commuting duties. Soon, the Jeep will be working hard as support for King of the Hammers, Best In The Desert and SCORE International races.

This likely won’t be the end of the modifications for this Jeep, but it is a stellar start out of the gate.

All Surfaces, All Traction

What Is an All-Terrain Tire?

Want a tire that gives you traction no matter where you are? Well, that doesn’t exist but there is a tire that gives you great all-around traction with some compromises. That tire is the All-Terrain – or AT – tire, which used to be a single category until recently. We’ll go over the most common versions of the AT in this story.

Unlike the MT tire, the All-Terrain is a compromise between on-road comfort and off-road capability. AT tires don’t generally excel in either area but work at their best in either. They feature smaller tread blocks for the best on-road noise and wet surface grip, but the blocks are still large and aggressive enough to be used in dirt and light rock off-road conditions. However, there has been a change in how an AT tire is designed and now there are two types of tire designs within the AT tire class. Each type of AT gets closer to the MT design.

The classic AT, like the Patagonia A/T W, is designed with more on-road performance than off. Some will call this an AP (All-Purpose) or Trail type All-Terrain but there is a specific All-Purpose tire category. So, calling an AT an AP tire is technically wrong. This is mostly because it’s capable of going off-road, but its smaller tread blocks and grooves allow mud to “stick” to the tire more. This reduces traction in that condition, but the smaller tread and harder tread compound mean that it won’t do well in rock crawling conditions.

The tread also doesn’t travel down into the sidewall and it features fewer belts than the MT tire. The sidewall ply and bead design will also only allow for normal tire pressures of 30-PSI and above. When people think of “truck tires,” like what you’d see on mid- and full-size pickup trucks and SUVs, this tire design is what they will picture. It’s perfect for trucks and SUVs that don’t see much off-road action, but if it does, it’s only going to be down a dirt road.

The next step in the AT ladder is the AT-X or AT-R tire. This type features larger blocks than the standard AT and you can see this in the Patagonia A/T R. The tread blocks are much more aggressive and somewhat larger, and the sidewall of an AT-X has some tread, but not to the extent of a full MT tire. It also features more siping than an MT, but not as much as the AT. Again, the siping is there to reduce squirm and improve wet road surface traction by giving water an evacuation path. The AT-R or AT-X type All-Terrain tire is perfect for vehicles that see more off-road surfaces but still travel mainly on surface streets. It’s probably not going to work well as a rock crawler or dune tire, but you’ll be able to get to your favorite off-road and camping spots with no issues.

What both types of AT tires feature is reduced road noise. This is an integral feature of any tire that has smaller tread blocks and more grooves and sipes. When the tread rotates onto the road surface, it compresses the air. That loads up air like a spring and when it escapes, it does so at Mach speeds from the energy it gains from being compressed. If the air has a path or pocket to escape to, it reduces that compression and potential energy. That slows down the air’s speed and you no longer hear the howl as you do of an MT tire.

The AT tire is the best compromise of on-road manners and off-road capability. You’re not going to be crawling up Jackhammer with either AT tire, but you’ll produce less noise than the MT tire. You’ll be able to get to a spot where you can watch your favorite Ultra4 racer and drive home with more wet surface traction than the mud tire. If you want more off-road traction, then the AT-R or AT-X will be a better choice. You’ll get a more aggressive look than the AT and better performance off the asphalt, too. However, if you need absolute off-road traction, then you’ll have to consider something more aggressive.

Max Traction

What Is a Mud Terrain Tire?

When you think of the ultimate off-road machine, you probably imagine it having Mud Terrain – or MT – tires. What makes an MT such a specific tire? We’ll answer that today.

A Mud Terrain tire, like the Milestar Patagonia M/T, is designed for extreme off-road terrain. Despite its name, the MT is used in more than just muddy conditions. The focus of this tire type is debris ejection, be it mud or stones. Clearing out the grooves naturally with tire rotation allows the tread block leading edge to grab the next portion of the surface and “claw” through it. So, the grooves act sort of like a scoop. Otherwise, the grooves fill up and the tire loses traction.

However, an innovation made by Mickey Thompson in the 1960s and featured on nearly every MT tire since is the sidewall tread. Allowing the tread to continue down the sidewall of the tire gives the MT another area for traction in rocky and silty sand conditions. When aired down, the MT’s sidewall tread also helps to increase the tread width as the tires flatten out under vehicle weight.

Because it’s made to be aired down, the MT tires carcass is also designed much differently than a regular street tire like the Milestar Grantland. It typically features more belts to deal with the additional stress airing down creates on the sidewalls. Those belts are also designed to flex despite adding more of them. The beads are also designed to hold on to the rim at lower pressures, usually down to about 20-PSI before needing beadlocks. However, that’s not true for all MT tires. Some can go lower, some can’t go that low without a beadlock. Again, it’s up to the design so always follow the recommendations and warnings from your tire.

One of the biggest down falls of the MT tire is noise. Large tread blocks compress air into the ground, putting it under extreme pressure at the microscopic level. When the tread rotates, that highly compressed air shoots out at Mach speeds and creates the howling noise that’s typical of a very aggressive and blocky tread pattern. The other disadvantage to those large tread blocks is squirm, traction in wet road conditions, and rubber compound life.

Squirm is the movement of the tread on the road surface as the tire drives down the road. Because of its large size, the large lugs will squirm more and create heat. That heat travels through the lugs to spots where it can’t cool off and creates hot spots. The combination of squirm and hot spots creates weaknesses in the lug and can cause chunking. Squirm is typically worse on the steering axle than the drive axle, but the drive axle can still see some squirm as you accelerate on changing road conditions.

Despite its great off-road traction, wet asphalt or concrete surfaces will be its weakest points. Those large tread blocks with no grooves have a reduced amount of water removal. While the water can travel around the blocks, the blocks contacting the surface is trying to squish down water that’s between it and the road surface. Since the water is a nearly incompressible fluid, the tread rides above the surface. This is hydroplaning, which reduces traction to zero because the rubber can no longer form with the road, which is what creates grip.

A tire’s rubber compound, which arbitrarily describes the softness or hardness of rubber in tires, can also increase grip if its softer. Many MT tires are softer than their road cousins due to the requirement of traction in sand and rocks. That also means that a MT tire won’t always last as long as regular road tires. Not always, but a majority will not.

However, modern MT tires like the Patagonia M/T are designed with mixed surfaces in mind. So, while the tread blocks are still larger than a standard road tire, they feature additional grooves and purpose made sipes. The sipes allow the tread to move in smaller sizes, reducing the squirm when compared to a fully solid tread lug. The combination of grooves and sipes also helps in removing water so the tread can grip on wet asphalt and concrete roads. They also help reduce road noise by giving air an escape route before being compressed into the road.

Do you need a MT tire? Maybe. Maybe not. The only way to answer that is to ask yourself this question. “Where am I using my vehicle the most?” If you’re mostly running on surface streets with little to no off-road use, then you don’t need a MT tire. If you’re response is the opposite, how often are you on those off-road conditions and can you deal with more road noise produced by those tires? If you just want a tire that looks cool and don’t care about noise and wet surface traction, you can’t beat the aggressive looks of the MT but there still might be a tire right for you that isn’t a MT.

Vegas to Reno Is the Big One!

Those who think all the wide open spaces are gone have never been to Nevada. Every year the Best in the Desert series holds their Vegas to Reno race (V2R), in some of the most desolate terrains in the West. Only a few small towns can be found on the highway that parallels the course to some extent. At times, the course runs miles from the nearest paved road, totally inaccessible to support from their chase crews. Far from the crowds in Las Vegas, competitors battle for 530 miles over fast graded roads, dry lake beds, mountain trails, and deep silt beds. The only spectators are a bunch of donkeys.

This year, the lake beds were not so dry as monsoon conditions caused flooding and deep mud in some areas. V2R is the longest offroad race in the United States. Usually, an offroad race of this distance would demand some strategy, but due to so many long open stretches, the race has evolved into a flat-out sprint to the finish. Racers have the throttle pinned for miles at a time. If the frantic pace and extensive mileage were not enough, the high temperatures in August added to the toll on anyone who ventured into the desert.

One particularly nasty surprise for racers lies in the final 20 miles of the course. Just as thoughts of getting to the finish start to invade the psyche, the terrain turns savage. The course changes to sharp rocks protruding from the ground. It’s like a huge cheese grater ready to shred the cars into pieces. Many racers have made it to this point thinking they had a V2R win in the bag; only to be crushed after the rocks caused damage to their vehicle. There is nothing more devastating than to complete 520 miles of a 530-mile race. 

Most of the teams come into the race well rested and well prepared. The series takes a brief break prior to V2R due to the repressive heat during the summer months. The race starts on Friday, so qualifying was on Wednesday, and Thursday was spent in the parking lot of the Texas Station hotel and casino for technical inspection.

All types of vendors set up booths to support the racers and market their wares to the fans that come out to see the vehicles up close. It’s the best time to meet the teams and get your favorite driver’s autograph. These are the final hours before the race starts in the morning. The fun, carnival type atmosphere masks the underlying tension. Most of the drivers are calm and collected, but it’s the crew members who have their minds racing; constantly making sure that the vehicle is prepared and the logistics are finalized for Vegas to Reno.

Despite the good intentions, August is still no picnic in the desert Southwest as temperatures during the V2R race hovered around the century mark. The violent rain squalls were a brief reprise, but then the humidity turned conditions into a steam bath. The incessant dust that blankets everything was briefly turned to mud. It covered the cars and the competitors’ visors like a coat of paint. When racers compete off-road in muddy conditions, they have clear plastic sheets mounted over their face shields. As the mud blocks their vision, they reach up and tear one away revealing a clean one underneath. The “tearaways” as they are called, are not usually employed during a desert race, so many were hampered with impaired vision.

What they do have are systems designed to pump filtered air into their helmets. They accomplish two things: First, they supply filtered air so they don’t have pounds of dust in their lungs and eyes. The second is the relief given by the air blowing on their heads. It helps to cool their body temperature just a bit. There are no windshields in the cars so the occupants are battered by rocks, dust, and dirt. Their helmets and fire suits are the only things protecting them from the onslaught of earth, wind, and fire.

The race takes a toll on every participant, even the winners. Those who won are elated. Those who came up short, but still finished, have just as much pride in accomplishment. Those who failed to get to the line in time are more resolved than ever to get redemption next year. Some are sitting in the darkness with a broken car, wondering what just made that noise.

UTV World Championship

UTV’s were originally created as a farm implement, but the small, all-purpose machines soon developed into sport models for recreation. They are now dirt rockets with long travel suspensions and surprising performance levels. As they evolved, all types of custom fabricated vehicles and performance parts were created along the way. Inevitably, they wound up racing them in just about every terrain imaginable. One of the biggest events of the year is the Polaris RZR UTV World Championship in Laughlin, Nevada. The prestige of earning a World Championship title draws the fastest racers from many different race series. It’s the only occasion where desert, short course, cross country, and mud bog racers can compete head to head. Defending Best in the Desert champion Phil Blurton, multi-time WORCS champion Beau Baron, and Mud Racing champion Dustin Jones can all line up to do battle with recently crowned King of the Hammers, Mitch Guthrie Jr. One thing that is constant amongst these competitors is that they all strive for excellence, and they all want to be the best of the best.

A truly “World Class” race, the UTV World Championships (UTVWC), had a long list of events that attracted a wide range of enthusiasts. Over 10 thousand dollars’ worth of cash and prizes were put up for the UTV driver who flew the farthest during the Laughlin Leap jump contest on Thursday evening. Cole Freiday took the top spot in his Can-Am Maverick X3 with a 117.9-foot leap. You can add jump contests to the long list of racing events that UTV’s are now participating in.

On Friday morning, anyone with a UTV, or similar vehicle, could register for the poker run. The run took place on the actual race course so the public got a good look at what the racers would be subjected to on race day. Racers also took advantage of the run to get their first look at the course as well. Since UTV’s began racing offroad in the desert, traditional desert racers have called them golf carts. At first, the label was somewhat deserved as they were tiny and underpowered. Nowadays the cars are very fast and their dimensions approach the same numbers as other traditional cars. One of the poker run participants that stood out was in fact, a lifted golf cart. The driver was running pretty fast, even if it was done with tongue in cheek. Those not in golf carts were also having a blast. Excessive wheelspin and passengers flashing the bullhorns hand gesture were both prevalent during the poker run. 

Also on Friday were the kid’s races. It’s amazing to see the next generation of racers developing before your eyes. By the time some of these kids reach double digits in age, they will be considered racing veterans. The kids ran in two classes, 170cc, and the faster 250cc class. Many of these kids already know all the tricks of the trade. It was clear that the last thing you want to do is rub wheels with a driver who is grouchy and probably needs a nap. Despite the bumping, the creative lines designed to run their competitors off the course, and their unwillingness to give an inch, everyone emerged unscathed, and with ear-to-ear grins. 250cc class winner Travis Sallee got the full podium interview and champagne spraying treatment, despite it being sparkling apple cider, to prepare him for future greatness.

Saturday would be set aside for the big boys. The short course races took place in the morning, and the desert race ran shortly after it concluded. Many competitors jumped out of their short course cars and into their desert cars without even knowing their results from the morning race. Drawing competitors from every discipline imaginable, the field was stacked with talent. Last year, they ran the desert race first, which forced the short course competitors to race on a brutal, whooped out track. Changing the order made the short course guys a little happier, but the Laughlin course was only somewhat better. It still contained plenty of whoops, ruts, and rocks that pound the cars into submission. Another major improvement was the gradual transition from the land rush start, to the standard course width. Last season the track went from 100 feet wide to 20 feet wide in the first turn. It made for a much better start as everyone was able to open their cars up and go all out for the holeshot.

Speaking of holeshots, the short course race winner was Dustin Jones, who got out to the holeshot for the third year in a row. This time, he held off the entire field to take the win. The car he was driving was built in 7 days at the S3 shop. Jones is a mud and woods racing champion from Louisiana. He built his first desert racing car at S3 by reading the rulebook and looking at photos on the internet. Don’t be fooled by his friendly disposition and southern charm, he is super competitive and credits his teammates for driving him to get faster all the time. “The UTV World Championships is the one you really want to win, and part of the reason why I was pushing so hard is because of my teammates, said Jones, “I have 10 guys in the shop who want to win just as bad as I do, and I need to beat them first. We all work hard to get faster every race, and that keeps me at the top of my game.” Jones jumped into his desert car and finished on the podium again, in third place during the desert race. Also getting a third-place podium finish was S3 teammate Logan Brezina who latched onto 2nd place Branden Sims’ bumper after their third row start. “At race mile 5, Sims got past me so I knew he was fast. There was nobody in my mirror, so I figured if I stayed up with him, I would be running a fast enough pace”, said Brezina.

The desert race was 10 laps on the chewed up course. Desert racing courses are always filled with rocks, ruts and whoops, the undulating bumps that torture the cars’ suspensions and drivers’ control, but the frantic pace would take an extraordinary toll on many of the competitors. You had to find the perfect tempo that would beat the competition, without killing the car. Winner Phil Blurton knew this well as he ran the short course race but did not finish. He ran his short course car so hard that he caught the grease in his CV joints on fire. “The course got really rough,” said Blurton, “It was filled with braking and acceleration bumps in addition to the whoops. We were the 5th car into the desert, and we played it smart. The race is not long, but it’s not short either. By mile 7, we were in the lead, and put 7 minutes on second place going into the last lap.”  2nd place in Group D went to Ryan Holz who beat out Jones for the spot.

Every year the UTV World Championships get bigger, and if you ask anyone, better. The event attracts the best UTV competitors from every form of racing and has something for everyone. The entire family can compete or hang out with the many fans that come for the fun.

LS Fest West 2018

Fans of GM’s All-Conquering V8 Gather in Las Vegas

It’s hard to believe, but 2018 marks the 21st anniversary of the introduction of the original LS1 engine for the 1997 model year. In those two decades, the LS family of V8 engines has become all things to all people and has been swapped into practically everything that moves – not just cars ranging from Mustangs to hot rods, but boats, aircraft, and even helicopters. 

It’s easy to make power with these inexpensive and anvil-tough engines, and if you can’t find the parts you want in a junkyard waiting to be reborn, the aftermarket has you covered with everything you need; blocks, internal components, engine management, and even swap kits to make installation paint-by-numbers simple. 

Recognizing how important the LS engine had become, back in 2010 Holley Performance Products organized their first LS Fest in Bowling Green, Kentucky, and ever since then, the annual event has drawn larger and larger crowds, with participants coming from all corners of the continent. It’s more than a car show, though – there’s something going on from the time the gates open until they close, on the dragstrip, the drift and autocross circuit, the chassis dyno, or the swap challenge tent. “An assault on the senses” is sort of a cliché, but it’s a totally appropriate description for a day at LS Fest.

In 2017, Holley added a second event to the schedule, the LS Fest West, taking over the sprawling dragstrip and motorsports complex at The Strip in Las Vegas, Nevada. May 2018 marked the second annual spring event, and as anticipated, it was even bigger than the inaugural LS Fest West.

“The best way I can put it to you is that LS Fest events are a party,” says Holley’s Blane Burnett. “Sure, there are competitions that take place within the event, but for the most part, everyone is here to enjoy what they’ve built and have a good time.” In case you think that Burnett might just be saying that to earn a paycheck, know this – He’s a True Believer with the cleanest daily-driven (and autocrossed) LS-swapped Nissan S14 you’ve ever seen. 

Speaking of swaps, one of the most striking things about LS Fest West 2018 was the sheer variety and number of LS-powered vehicles on the property. While the event runs three full days, it’s almost not enough time to take it all in, between all the various competitive events including drag racing, drifting, a road course time attack, and even off-road competition, then trying to see everything in the show-n-shine. 

We only got to experience a fraction of everything that was going on this year, but as you can see, if you are a fan of late-model GM performance (no matter what is wrapped around that engine) there’s a compelling reason not to miss LS Fest West 2019.

Behind the Scenes at Currie Enterprises

Currie Enterprises is one of the biggest names in automotive powersports. At their global headquarters in Corona, California, Currie Enterprises builds high-quality components for street rods, muscle cars, and off-road beasts. 

Frank Currie started the business in the late ‘50s, designing and building rearends for specialty equipment such as scissor lifts, tugs, and personnel carriers. In the late ‘70s, the focus moved on to building rearends for Chevy Vegas that had V8 conversions and needed a stronger differential to handle the power in the custom application. 

With the help of Frank’s 3 sons, John, Charlie, and Ray, the company evolved and grew into the powerhouse that it is today. Currie Enterprises now utilizes a 40,000 square foot state-of-the-art manufacturing facility to build a wide range of differentials, accessories and suspension components. 

Check out the behind the scenes look at the magic happening in the Currie facility and visit www.CurrieEnterprises.com for more information on how they can help you and your performance vehicle.

Various completed street and off-road axles awaiting will call by their purchaser.

Currie keeps off-road vehicle front and rear differential housings in stock to cut down on build and shipping times.

Housings & axles for 30 common street car vehicle platforms are kept in stock so that they may be pulled and shipped immediately.

Where a housing is born! The axle housing tubing rack.

Currie’s frontend housing assembly technician in action.

100% new GM G-body 12-bolt housing in the bracket jig.

F-350/F-450 unit bearings used in Currie 1-ton front-end applications.

Currie has over 30 different axles cores on hand at all times for different applications.

One of three of Currie’s CNC axle splining machines cutting splines.

RockJock 60 & 70 off-road differentials awaiting pickup by their purchasers.

9” 3rd members for large P.O. customers are built in stages.

One of Currie’s 4 gear set-up technicians doing a precise gear set up.

Ready to go! Finished product awaiting the big brown truck.

Ray Currie’s new 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler Rubicon that is equipped with all of Currie’s goodies underneath.

Currie’s over-the-road show rigs. Look for them at a show near you!

Currie holds numerous trademarked names for their famous components.

The Currie Enterprises sales office features Currie family vehicles that get rotated out. The office is currently featuring Frank Currie’s Ford 514 SVO powered ’32 Ford 3 window coupe.

Currie’s world headquarters in Corona, CA.

Jump Champs 3.0

The Jump Champs have hit their stride as even heavy rains were not enough to dampen the enthusiasm of the many fans and competitors who showed up to version 3.0 held at Glen Helen Raceway in San Bernardino, California. The third ever event was loaded with activities for everyone. The goal is to get people to participate in the driving events, so they have a wide range of competitions. There were dirt drags, time trials competition, and the jump contest that caps off the event on Saturday.  Even if you didn’t want to get your vehicle dirty, they had a show and shine judged by the fans.

Photo Credit: Mike Ingalsbee

For those who wanted to get dirty, there was plenty of opportunity for that. Heavy rains blew through on Saturday morning and soaked the track. Despite the mud everywhere, the fans stayed put and made the best of it. After the dousing, the skies appeared threatening, but the rains did not return. That left a wide range of fans; from young to old, and a diverse group of vehicles to enjoy the rest of the day.

The time trials event grouped similar types of vehicles together on the track. They each had 5 laps to put down the fastest lap in their group. Since everyone was racing for time, and not track position, there was not the customary fender banging and general mayhem that normally takes place at a short course race. This was good considering that many of the vehicles had windshields and license plates, and probably took their owners to work during the week. Others were full on race cars. As the laps wore on during the day, the track got better and better, but many had to run in the slick, sloppy mud that was everywhere. Hats off to the participants who braved the conditions, and were able to throw their vehicles around without any incidents. Aside from the red mist of competition, the track is a professional racing venue and as such is appropriately challenging.

Some of those out on the track were taking advantage of the ride-a-longs that could be purchased during the event. You didn’t even need to own a vehicle to get out on the track. Known as the thrill ride, it was the best truth in advertising seen in a long time. The riders got a chance to fly off the huge jumps, dive into the banked turns, and negotiate the infamous whoops section, all with the cost of a ticket. Opportunities like that don’t come around often.

After two full days of events, it was time for the Jump competition that the event is known for. Taking place on the huge table-top jump that the stars of the Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series flyover, it gave the fans a perfect view from the safety of the grandstands. The cars and trucks entered were hitting it hard, and some were landing the same. The only incident was when Justin Tex landed hard enough to break his front shock mount right off the chassis. The landing also took out his steering rods which caused him to get sideways and tip over onto his side. His truck had some damage, but he was fine and won the Hanger 24 Roughest Landing award. Everyone was focused on the unlimited class which put on a great show. The longest leap went to Hal Deschamp whose ULTRA 4400 car went 122′. Jordan Sellers was 2nd at 114’, and Blake Wilkey was 3rd at 110’. It was the perfect ending to another great Jump Champs event. Everyone had a fantastic time and is looking forward to the next Jump Champs event on December 15th.

2018 Silver State 300

Desert racing is filled with highly competitive racers, but is also known for the brutal terrain that has to be overcome. No matter where the race is held, you can almost count on there being a mix of sand, rocks, and silt. The course may climb mountains, drop into dry river washes, or skirt rock outcroppings, but the scenery remains fairly consistent. The Best in the Desert Series, Silver State 300 race breaks the mold. There are miles of featureless dry lake beds, and valleys filled with endless sage brush like other races, but the area around Caliente, Nevada where the race is held also contains tight, twisty trails through Juniper forests, water crossings, and green canyons filled with cottonwood trees.

The race starts outside the small town of Alamo in a typical high desert valley filled with sage brush and grazing cattle. The roads there are fast as they were designed to get ranchers from one place to another in the least amount of time. The terrain starts to change around mile 23 as the brush disappears; dirt and rocks dominate the landscape. At mile 30, they have skirted several mountains and cross their first dry lake bed. At only mile 45 they turn east into a canyon that leads into a mountainous area. The map looks like a squiggly line as the course twists and turns following the terrain as it clings to the sides of the hills. Much of the course was laid out by nature. Flowing water has carved out paths through the steep rocky hill sides for centuries. The dry river beds are the only evidence that remains, and provides natural pathways for travel. It’s not easy going as river bottoms can hide deep pockets of sand that put huge loads on engines, transmissions, and drivelines. Large, wheel crushing rocks lurk just below the surface. The course gets very tight and technical as it descends into the town of Caliente and pit 3; only a third of the way to their goal.

With considerable challenges already overcome, the course then heads towards the water crossing. It looks deceptively shallow and not much of an obstacle, but it is much deeper than it looks. Desert racing vehicles are designed to keep dust and dirt out of their engines, not water. If you hit the water crossing too fast, and your intake is not shielded, the strong vacuum created by the engine will suck the water into the engine like a 5 year old getting the last drops of a milkshake in the bottom of the cup. Once the water gets into the cylinders, the engine locks up and stalls. In extreme cases the hydraulic pressure can kick a rod out the side of the block. The water can also wreak havoc with the electronics or other mechanical parts. When the water hits hot metal, it turns to steam that can invade areas that are normally protected by seals. The thermal shock can also have an impact. Some were stopped in their tracks by the water; others suffered hidden damage that would show up much later in the race.

Hopefully the water dried out quickly because the course would turn to silt as it made its way north to Panaca. Silt is very fine particles of sand or dirt that has the consistency of talcum powder. The tiny particles are carried by the wind or water and deposited in the billions. A silt bed can be 10 feet across, or go on for a mile. It can stop a moving vehicle in its tracks and require a lot of digging, or a tug from a rope to get un-stuck. The best way to get through is to bury the throttle and maintain your momentum. Getting stuck strikes fear into any driver. Not only will you have some serious work to get out, but the silt that gets kicked up by each vehicle hangs in the air like a cloud and blinds oncoming drivers. The only safe thing to do is wait until the air clears before getting out of the vehicle, and head for high ground when another vehicle is approaching. The silt gets into everything, just like water, and can stall an engine if it clogs up the air filters. If you get through the silt, a second water crossing waits only a few miles away. Those drivers who have made it this far are only half way through the race.

A long standing saying in offroad racing is that “in order to finish first, you first need to finish.” Just completing the course is a major accomplishment, but there is also the specter of the competition. Desert racers are just as tough as the terrain, and will suffer through incredible hardships in order to win. The race is not over until the very end. Defending Trick Truck Champion Jason Voss was the number one qualifier in time trials giving him the first shot at the course. He typically checks out from the field when he gets out front and had a big lead at the halfway point of the race. He suffered suspension parts failure soon after that point and lost several hours of downtime making repairs. He made it to the finish in 13th place. Justin Lofton was in the mix until he lost a motor. When it came down to the final miles, Justin Matney battled with Justin “Bean” Smith driving Tracy Graff‘s Trick Truck. Matney came out with the overall win by 6 minutes after racing flat out for over 5 hours. The Silver State 300 showed that no matter how fierce the competition, or how many hours are spent in preparation, the desert still provides the greatest challenge to offroad racers.

Super Clean Demello-Built Overlander

Scott Motherstead’s 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser, Built by Demello Offroad

The term “Family Adventure” can mean many things. For some, just getting out of the house to go see Grandma can be an adventure. But for others (those of us that have dirt infused in our blood), it means so much more. Scott Motherstead of Costa Mesa, California decided to build up his 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser (FJC) to make sure his kids had something to brag about when they went back to school after an epic weekend.

The goal was simple: build a reliable rig ready for the trails and family fun. Scott teamed up with Demello Offroad in Riverside, California, knowing full well that he and his Toyota would be well taken care of. The team decided to upgrade the 4×4 with ICON Vehicle Dynamic’s Stage 8 Suspension system, featuring ICON’s ultra-reliable coilovers, shocks, control arms, and all other necessary components.

To make sure the extra travel and performance of the upgraded suspension isn’t left in the cold, the Toyota independent front differential and solid rear axle were regeared to 4.88:1 ratio, keeping the factory locker out back.

Travel and gearing are nothing without getting traction on the ground. The tire put to the task is a full set of 35-inch Milestar Patagonia M/Ts wrapped around Toyota TRD wheels with custom OMF Performance beadlocks. Hopes, dreams, and expectations of traction were blown out of the water by how well the Patagonias perform.

Next, the focus was placed on the exterior of the body. Demello Offroad specializes in quality components for Toyotas. They decked the rig out with front and rear bumpers, side bars, and a roof rack LED light bar mount. They then added a Smittybilt 9.5k XRC winch and a host of Baja Designs LED lights.

Everything combined, at the end of an amazing trail day, Scott is able to sit by the campfire with his family, fondly looking at his ‘Cruiser and know that he has made some great choices.

Battering Ram: Dodge RAM 2500 HD

Andrew Hoit’s Dodge Ram 2500 HD

Andrew Hoit from Chino, California shows us what a great offroad vehicle you can build if you keep it simple and do key improvements to an already capable platform. His 2016 Dodge Ram 2500 HD is actually a replacement for a similar Dodge Ram he had that was totaled when a careless driver drifted into his lane. He was impressed with how well the Dodge protected himself and his fiancé in the crash so there was no doubt what he would purchase the second time around. His reasons for choosing the Dodge for his offroad build include comfort, safety, versatility, and the Cummins 6.7 liter diesel engine!

The 6.7 liter Cummins diesel is legendary for reliability and supplies 385 horsepower and a staggering 900 foot pounds of torque. In order to take full advantage of that torque, Andrew swapped the gears in both axles to Nitro 4.32:1 ratio ring and pinion sets. All that torque is applied by a set of AEV Salta rims sized 17X8 that are wrapped with 37X12.5R17 Milestar Patagonia M/Ts. When Andrew gets out in his truck, he heads for the mountains. Like many of us, he has to travel a lot of freeway miles to get to his destination. His Milestar Patagonias are comfortable on the pavement but still aggressive enough to excel in the mud, rocks, and snow that he finds at his favorite camping spots. The 37-inch size gives him plenty of ground clearance at the differentials and provides a nice contact patch for maximum traction. A Bilstein B8 5160 Leveling Kit with Eibach Springs up front and the matching Bilstein B8 5160 application out back make room for those tires. You can begin to see a pattern here, Andrew has selected highly only the most reliable and effective components to fortify his Dodge.

Speaking of fortifications, you can’t miss the ARB Full Deluxe Modular Winch Bar Kit out front. A pair of ARB Intensity LED lights are mounted to the front to illuminate anything ahead, even in the rare case that cable needs to be pulled from the Warn Winch mounted to the ARB bumper. Further fortifications include a Cage 4X4 heavy duty skid plate. The added electronic components are integrated into the Dodge Ram by an sPod HD Touchscreen Control. He also has a Rugged Radio tied into the sPOD to communicate with the outside world.

When Andrew wants to get away from the outside world, he has an ARB Rooftop tent and canopy for protection from the elements. Andrew built the custom bed rack that holds the ARB tent himself. Raising the tent up allows the bed to hold a decked cargo system that provides tons of lockable storage space, his ARB fridge, and whatever gear, firewood, or supplies that he desires. Andrew’s capable Dodge is a well thought out, and perfectly executed 4X4 that can go anywhere with ease. Whether he’s stuck in traffic on a Southern California freeway, or relaxing in the fresh air of a pine forest, Andrew has everything he needs to be safe and comfortable no matter where he is.          

Four Doors Are Better Than Two: Jeep JKU Wrangler

Bert Heck’s Jeep JKU Wrangler

The automotive world has a way of taking a serious hold on us. All it takes is being part of one facet of the culture to pull you into the rest, a gateway drug of sorts. That is exactly what happened with Bert Heck, and why he now utilizes a 2015 Jeep JKU Wrangler Unlimited.

Bert’s gateway was drag racing. For years it was his automotive sport of choice. Though he still enjoys the thrill of a dragster tearing down the track, Bert wanted something for when he wasn’t racing. A friend and co-worker talked him into purchasing a 1998 TJ Wrangler. It was built, lots of fun was had but Bert saw that the longer wheelbase rigs had the fun he’d prefer. Street-able and can wheel anywhere.

Over the span of a few months, Bert transformed his Jeep JKU Wrangler into the beast you see here. With a large amount of friends in the automotive aftermarket industry, Bert knew who to ask to point him down the right path for which parts to use. Their guidance helped the Jeep build go the way it did.

The Jeep is elevated by a front and rear EVO MFG Double D Pro Long Arm Suspension System sporting 2.5 King Coilovers, giving the Jeep a low center of gravity, 12-inches of clean and usable travel as well as having some of the strongest components on the market. Hanging off the ends of the long arms are a front Currie Enterprises RockJock 44 front differential and RockJock 60 rear.

To get ultimate traction no matter where the vehicle went, Bert bolted on a set of Method 101 Beadlock wheels wrapped in Milestar Patagonia M/T 37×12.50R17 at each corner. The Patagonia M/Ts are design for maximum traction, no matter where the vehicle goes, perfect for Bert’s wide range of uses for the vehicle.

To give the Jeep the body protection it deserves, a full range of Poison Spyder bumpers, rocker sliders and corner guards were installed, along with a Warn Zeon 12,000lb winch and a full RockHard 4×4 skid plate system. To keep the spare Patagonia M/T firmly planted to the vehicle, an EVO MFG Pro Series Hinged Gate Carrier was installed on the back end.

The 3.6L V6 powerplant and automatic transmission were left stock for reliability, with the exception of a K&N Engineering air intake and oil filter to give it a few extra ponies.

Keep your eyes peeled for this rig. Bert tends to take his Jeep JKU Wrangler anywhere he can. The pair are no stranger to trails in the West.

No Tougher Test Than KOH, King of the Hammers

The Ultra4 series, King of the Hammers race, (KOH) is touted as the toughest single day off-road race in the world. Anyone who has witnessed it will back that up. The course changes every year, but always includes a mixture of grueling desert terrain, and punishing rock trails. It’s a brutal, soul crushing endeavor that will test the resolve of even the most hardened competitors.  The racer who conquers the terrain, and the competition is crowned King, but many competitors hope to merely finish the course without timing out. The challenge and spectacle of KOH draws competitors, fans, and media from all over the globe. A desolate dry lakebed in Johnson Valley, California is transformed into a makeshift city of over 50 thousand people during the event. Part high-speed desert racing, and part hardcore rock crawling, it has created a whole new category of motorsports; rock racing.

The first gathering in 2007 was to see if the assembled competitors could even survive the course. Known as the O.G. 13 run, there were actually only 12 cars that could make it, but O.G. 13 sounds better, so it has stuck to this day. Those original competitors, and anyone who is crowned king, are entered into the race; everyone else needs to qualify. In the decade that has elapsed, KOH has expanded into the Ultra4 series that holds racing events across the country. Each Ultra4 event is unique to the terrain found at its location. Top finishers earn a spot in the big race in Johnson Valley.

The unique nature of KOH, and its incredible challenge, attracts a very diverse pool of competitors. Recreational four wheelers, competition rock crawlers, short course and desert racers, adventure seekers, even some celebrities have taken the green flag. Despite the miles of desert that have to be negotiated, most agree that the race is won in the rocks. Maybe that’s why the professional desert racers that have competed over the years have failed to finish in the top tier. In fact, the same 5 racers have shared the crown over the last 11 years. Erik Miller, Randy Slawson, Loren Healy, and Jason Scherer all have 2 wins, (Scherer joined the 2 time winners club this year). Shannon Campbell has three titles to his name. Had Randy Slawson won this year, he would have joined Campbell with 3, but a crack in his exhaust pipe cooked the transmission fluid and left him on the side of the course only a mile from the finish. He was in an intense, wheel to wheel battle with Jason Scherer all day long and came up just a little short. It might seem like a safe bet to pick one of these drivers to win any given year, but as Slawson proved, anything can happen. In fact, both Slawson and Loren Healy got wins after earning the only remaining starting spot during the last chance qualifier race. Slawson is considered a local, spending years 4 wheeling in Johnson Valley. Healy hails from New Mexico, and was a recreational trail runner before being elevated to a King of the Hammers.

As diverse as the drivers are, the cars are even more unique. Ultra4’s premiere class is unlimited. Rules exist to ensure safety for the competitors but nearly everything else is left up to materials, technology, and imagination. Desert racing has taken 50 years to get where it is today. Ultra4 has taken advantage of desert racing technology, namely in the area of shock technology, but the evolution of the cars has progressed at a staggering pace. The cars that participated in the first “Race” in 2008 would have a hard time qualifying for the race today. Rock crawlers with air shocks would not be able to match the pace that competitive cars are running today. Huge bypass shocks, mega horsepower engines, and bullet proof driveline components have become compulsory. In order to be in contention for the win, you need to be continuously moving. Stopping to winch, making repairs, or suffering flat tires are all serious setbacks. No outside assistance is allowed outside of designated pit areas. If a driver has problems, repairs need to be made in the field with spares carried on-board. If other parts or tools are needed, they have to be retrieved from a pit area and carried back to the stranded vehicle. The only exception to this rule is if a fellow competitor offers to help. Most competitors will help other others because they know it could be them and someday they will need the favor returned. Every year some poor soul has to hike through incredibly brutal terrain and retrieve some ridiculously difficult component to carry like a driveshaft, battery, or spare tire. This race is not for the weak. It’s also not for the timid. One rule that has caused tempers to flare, but is entirely legal, and necessary, is the bottleneck rule. If a vehicle becomes stuck or incapacitated in the course, competitors are within their rights to drive over them. Whether it’s a huge rock, or another car, Ultra4 vehicles are capable of going over either one in short order.

In the beginning, there was only one class. Now the program has expanded to include several races that take place over an entire week of events. King of the Motos is the two wheeled version of KOH and is similar in its extremely challenging nature. 2018 winner Cody Webb was the only rider to complete all 140 miles making him the obvious winner of the toughest King of the Motos races to date. It was Webb’s fourth KOM win of his career. Next up on the schedule was the UTV race. It’s unfathomable that the UTV’s can traverse the same trails as the Ultra4’s but they do. This year’s UTV race was especially brutal as only 12 out of 118 teams finished the course within the time limit. Mitch Guthrie Jr. took his first win as a driver at KOH, but he is no stranger to the race. His father has won the race 6 times; all with Mitch Jr. riding along as co-driver. Mitch Sr. suffered a rollover on backdoor but recovered to finish in 3rd place behind Branden Sims who was 2nd.

In order to broaden the opportunities to compete at KOH, the Smittybilt Everyman Challenge was devised. The EMC has three classes of limited cars competing; offering a class for almost anyone. Incredibly, the top three finishers on the podium were all from a different class. 1st overall was Baja 1000 winner, Dan Fresh racing his 4500 class Jeep Wrangler. The second truck to cross the line was driven by Casey Gilbert. Gilbert was driving in the 4800 legends class. The third truck to cross the line was driven by Jessie Combs who was competing in the stock class, 4600. She was the 59th truck off the line in the morning, and worked all the way through the pack to take the stock class victory and 3rd place overall. In addition to being the fastest woman in the world after an official run of 398.954 mph in the North American Eagle Supersonic Speed Challenger in the Alvord desert, claiming the women’s 4-wheel land speed record in 2013, she is a KOH veteran, and would also run the Ultra4 race on Friday.

King of the Hammers has evolved into one of the most incredible motorsports events in the world. It attracts thousands of fans, the most elite racers in the world, as well as the average Joe who builds their own car in the garage. It has spawned a completely new genre of racing, and remains one of the toughest tests on the planet. If you’ve never been, make plans now. You will be treated to nothing less than the most amazing experience ever.

Mint 400 Takes Over Las Vegas

The Mint 400 offroad race was a huge spectacle, even for Las Vegas. The vehicle parade down Las Vegas Blvd. on Wednesday was hard to miss. Even if you didn’t catch a glimpse, the sound of engines churning out thousands of horsepower could not be ignored. For two full days after, Freemont Street was transformed into a huge party with hundreds of fans, vendor booths, special events, and of course, race vehicles. Over 450 teams would be taking the green light on Saturday morning. In the meantime, time trials would be held Thursday morning, the pit crew challenge would be decided, A Miss Mint 400 contest judged, and numerous parties were taking place.