Milestar XPDN4 Cascadia: An Overland Trek Through Oregon’s Many Exciting Landscapes

Does Tire Compound Even Matter?

For many people, the only thing they demand from their tires is that they hold air. They don’t know anything about tire construction, the materials used, or attributes of different tread designs. When it comes time to buy, they believe all tires are the same. They choose the cheapest they can find, or insist on the brand they are most familiar with. “Dad always ran brand x tires, so I will run those too. Dad knows what’s best”. These people are notorious for abusing their tires more than the guy down the street who can’t stop doing burnouts.

I’m sure you’ve had to roll down your window in traffic, or mention to someone in a parking lot that their tire is under-inflated, or sometimes even flat. For those people, the exhaustive work of technicians, test drivers, and product development engineers goes pretty much unappreciated. They purchase tires only when they absolutely have to.

On the other end of the spectrum are the enthusiasts who are pushing the limits of their vehicles on a regular basis. If you find one of them with a low tire, it’s because they set it there. They have all kinds of fancy gizmos to air their tires down for maximum footprint, and increase traction, and then to pump them back up again. They bring their own compressors along, and some even have on board air systems with storage tanks, and other accessories. They use that compressed air for obnoxious train horns, to blow dust or dirt out of their rig, or to pressurize a water tank for a trailside shower. Compressed air can really come in handy.

Then there is TPMS; Tire Pressure Monitoring System. From a gauge on the dash a driver can tell nearly exactly how much air pressure they have in each tire (even the spare on the rack) in real time, while they’re driving. It’s much easier to go online and argue whether 10 pounds is the best pressure to run on the rocks, or if 11.5 pounds works better in the sand when you know exactly how much pressure you are running.

The enthusiasts are the ones who delve into the fine details that make up a tire. They know the difference between a bias ply tire, and a radial; how steel belts vary from polyester, nylon or rayon cords. They understand the tire engineer’s lingo of rock ejectors, tread squirm, high void, staggered blocks, siping, etc. Ask the average person on the street what a tire bead is, and they will just look at you puzzled. Anyone who has ever built a beadlock wheel knows what it is, and that the shape, and thickness is critical to getting a good seal on the wheel.

It’s true that many off-road enthusiasts know quite a bit about tires. They might even know what size tire fits which truck, and what the proper wheel offset is in order to clear the fenders without trimming (the number one asked question on the internet). However, not a whole lot of tire buyers think about the rubber compound used. That information doesn’t show up on websites, in brochures, or in the carefully polished sales pitch from the guy at the tire store. Is it important? Why does it matter?

I can tell you from first-hand experience that the rubber compound used is just as important as any other component of a tire. A friend of mine showed up for a trip we took (way back in the 1980’s actually), with a brand new set of tires. We drove out to the mountains on the pavement, ran some trails, and then did a high speed bomb run down some graded fire roads. Once we got back to the pavement for the trip home, we noticed his tires were literally shredded. He had deep slices in the tread blocks and several chunks missing from the tread. He did not know that the tires he bought had a very soft compound. Although they were new, they got torn up from wheel spin on the rocky fire roads. The tread compound was way too soft for the sharp rocks.

Those tires were perfect for mud, sand, or slick rock, but not suited for sharp rocks. Those tires were too soft, but your tires can also be too hard. At the same time that my friend bought those super soft tires, I had military take offs on my Jeep. They had a very aggressive tread design, and were very tough. The compound on those tires was very hard because they were designed to last a long time. They worked great when they could dig into the ground, but on slick, or smooth surfaces they were junk. In cold temperatures they got hard as a rock. They were bias plies so they rode rough as hell.

Those are two examples of tread compound from both extremes; too hard, and too soft. So what’s the perfect tread compound? That depends on what you need. Tire engineers have to weigh a lot of variables when they make this determination. Usually a tire will be configured for the street, part street, and part off-road, or mostly off road. Of course there is also a choice for off road only; The Milestar Patagonia M/T “Black Label” is super soft by design.

It’s for people who want maximum traction above all else. If you compare the Patagonia A/T R, with the Patagonia M/T you will notice right away that they look differently. The tread pattern of each tire is suited for their intended uses. The A/T R is designed more for the street, than the dirt. It will still perform in the dirt, but is rated higher than the M/T in ride comfort, and mileage. Obviously, if you are driving long distances on the pavement to get to the trail, tread wear is important.

The A/T R comes with a 50K tread wear warranty plan. The tread pattern itself helps to increase mileage by having smaller voids, but the tread compound also makes a big difference. The tread compound of the M/T is softer, and when I say softer I mean more flexible. Engineers can measure how soft the rubber is using a gauge that’s called a Durometer; the firmer the rubber, the higher the number. Which tread design and tread compound you choose depends on what your needs, and desires are. If you want better tread life, go with the A/T R. If you spend most of your time in the dirt, go with the M/T. If you still want more, choose the “Black Label” for the ultimate in traction. 

On a Dime: Brake Tech – Brake Rotors

Brake Rotors

“Come on,” you’re probably thinking, “those break rotors are just big slugs of metal cut to fit my car.” Nope, break rotors are another very complicated part of your brake system. However, there is a huge misconception on how they should be designed. Those cross-drilled rotors you have are pretty much junk.

How Are Break Rotors Made?

Rotors are typically made of cast iron known as grey iron—a type of cast iron with graphite in the mixture and sometimes other compounds such as copper, silicon, or other materials that bond with iron. Early front disc brakes and many rear brakes today are a solid disc. However, these discs can have trouble with dissipating heat fast enough. This is where the invention of the vented disc brake came in to fix that issue.

Both types of discs are molded, but vented discs are done in a procedure known as sand casting. The veins of the vented rotor are made of a separate sand core. It’s placed between the cope (top portion of a mold) and drag (bottom portion of the mold) and the metal flows into the mold.

Those cross-drilled rotors you have are pretty much junk.

Once the metal cools, the core is removed by hammering it out, using air, or various other methods of removal depending on how the sand cast was made and bound. After that, the rotor is then machined for vehicle fitment before final surface finishing and coating—if a coating is being applied, that is. Drums are usually made in a very similar way with molds.

Rotor Faces

Rotor faces come in four distinct types: solid, slotted, cross-drilled, or slotted and drilled. How does each of those work and what are the advantages of each? We answer that in this rotor article.

Solid Face Rotors

A solid face rotor will be the most rigid and can dissipate heat very well. It can take a little more abuse and can also be resurfaced easily from “warping”. It’s the simplest design that all OEs take advantage of because it doesn’t require extra machining or complex work to build or mold it. While it’s simple, it’s still very effective in most high-performance brake systems where pad gassing and debris clearing isn’t an issue.

Slotted Face Rotors

A slotted faced rotor is designed to keep some of the rigidity and heat dissipation of the solid rotor but create a space for gasses and incandescent materials to be wiped away from the friction lining. Gasses come from the natural breakdown of the adhesive that holds the brake friction to the brake pad as it heats up from use. This gassing creates a bearing surface, like how an air gap works, and creates a form of brake fade because the gasses can’t be compressed. The slots transfer those gasses away from the friction and rotor surface along with the incandescent materials to improve braking performance in high-performance applications. A street car normally won’t see this, but if you track yours then you will and is why a slotted rotor is an excellent choice.

Cross-Drilled Rotors

A cross drilled rotor has holes drilled straight across each rotor face that also feature chamfered edges to reduce hot spots at those drill points. This design is for maximum degassing as the venting of the rotor helps pull those gasses away from the rotor surface. The problem you start to encounter with a cross drilled rotor is the reduction of surface area for cooling. This can cause heat stress cracks at the drill points and a loss of rigidity overall for the rotor.

With modern adhesives and pad construction, the requirement of a cross drilled rotor has been reduced to the point that they aren’t used that often. This includes professional motorsports. The exception is environments where having high rotor surface temperatures are needed for brake pad friction effectiveness or where the rotating material just needs to be removed. In other words, you don’t need a cross drilled rotor on your daily driver. The brake temperatures won’t be high enough for pad degassing and the pads you are using don’t need that much temperature to operate.

Slotted and Drilled Rotors

The combination of slotted and drilled seeks to gain the advantages of both: the maximum degassing of a cross drilled rotor and the wiping of the friction surface of the slotted rotor while also retaining some of the rigidity from the slotted rotor design. However, if you’re not experiencing any degassing issues with solid rotors, you’re not gaining much in terms of performance from switching to either version. You’ll also lose surface area that helps with cooling your brake rotors.

…if you’re thinking about getting those drilled or slotted rotors, you may want to reconsider.

Both a slotted and cross drilled rotor will be slightly lighter, but only by a few grams at best. Unless you’re in a Formula Car or maximized the reduction of the weight of your tires and wheels, losing weight at the rotor isn’t going to be of much use to you. It can be detrimental if you don’t buy a high-quality slotted or drilled rotor.

Losing Weight with a Two-Piece Rotor

However, if you want the maximum rigidity but want to reduce weight, you should consider a two-piece rotor with an aluminum hat, as you see here. The aluminum hat reduces the weight of the rotor significantly since that large mass of metal is of a lighter material. You also gain the ability to change rotor faces and material without changing the rotor hats and this type of hat can allow you to work with a custom design by just changing the hat instead of the whole rotor. This does come at a price increase over a solid hat and rotor but if you’re going for maximum lightness, the price usually isn’t a concern at that point.

How a Rotor Cools

Again, rotors come in solid disc or vented disc, with most front rotors being vented. The venting design is a centrifugal (radial) fan type, where—in the simplest terms—the blades create a low-pressure area on the outside of the rotor as it rotates. The high-pressure area between the blades flows in to fill in that low-pressure area, which then creates a low-pressure area behind that to pull in more air. Again, that’s oversimplifying it. Changing the angle of the blades can increase efficacy but will make the rotors directional. There are also multi-blade designs that direct airflow for better hot spot cooling.

So, if you’re thinking about getting those drilled or slotted rotors, you may want to reconsider. If you’re simply going for the looks, we can’t argue against it. If you’re going for performance, consider staying with a solid face rotor and finding other ways to either reduce rotational weight or brake cooling.

Choosing the Right Tire

Let’s face it, the weather out on the West Coast is awesome. The conditions are more or less predictable, the climate is almost always in the ’70s and sunny, and it’s generally easy to prepare for changes in conditions if, say, you travel up to Tahoe for some skiing.

But for those of us that live virtually anywhere else, Mother Nature chooses to be comparatively more cruel with her distribution of weather conditions. Those of us residing in the Midwest and on the East Coast, as surely you already know, experience seasons; actual changes in temperature and conditions from winter to summer and vice-versa.

Whether you’re an automotive novice or expert, you know that tires are your vehicle’s direct line of contact to the road. Aside from monitoring your vehicle’s tire pressure, treadwear, etc., it’s essential that you also choose the right tire for the season and conditions you’re driving in. The circumferential grooves, tread blocks, lateral grooves, and even whether or not a tire is siped can have an impact on how a vehicle handles and brakes in both the wet and the dry.

Every kind of tire from all-season to all-terrain has specific conditions in which they excel, and this article will help you decide on what kind of tire to use when.

All-Seasons, Not All-Conditions

These are the most common kind of tire found on standard passenger vehicles and SUVs. As their category name suggests, all-seasons can be used in virtually any weather condition. Most vehicles that are equipped with these kinds of tires are used for commuting, not racing, have tread patterns with wider circumferential grooves (for removing water), more basic lateral grooves and tread blocks, have lower speed ratings (S- or T-speed), and longer-lasting rubber compounds.

For vehicles that are more performance-oriented, a performance or ultra-high performance tire isn’t necessarily more appropriate but will compliment your vehicle’s handling and braking abilities in dry conditions, while maintaining wider circumferential grooves to disperse water. These tires have a more intricate, aggressive tread pattern from the outboard to inboard shoulders, higher speed rating (H- or V-speed), and a softer compound, which tends to wear quicker than regular all-seasons.

The Milestar MS932 Sport and MS932 XP+ tires are great examples of this. Both are high-performance tires that feature optimized tread patterns along with wide circumferential ribs and grooves for improved grip and water dispersion. Compared to the MS70, which has both vertical and variable siping for inclement weather, the Sport features lateral siping while the XP+ features 3D, zig-zag siping, which are geared more for a performance grip. The XP+ has the addition of wider shoulder tread blocks for better handling and cornering.

When it comes to colder and wetter conditions though, the performance-oriented all-season tires aren’t as great. Their rubber compounds aren’t made for colder temperatures and the more aggressive tread patterns mentioned limit the vehicle’s ability to not only grip the road but also disperse precipitation when there is water or snow on the road.

…tires are your vehicle’s direct line of contact to the road.

In extreme cases, this could result in hydroplaning, which is essentially when water cannot effectively pass through a tire’s circumferential grooves causing the tire to ultimately lose contact with the road.

Condition Specific Tires: Winter And All-Terrain 

When temperatures drop below 40 degrees or the terrain becomes rough, rocky, or muddy, an all-season tire isn’t going to cut it. Lower temperatures demand tires with specialized, temperature-specific rubber compounds for better grip, while inclement weather conditions and rougher terrain demand specialized tread patterns for better grip. That’s why winter and all-terrain tires exist.

A tire which has met the required performance criteria in snow testing (like the situations mentioned above) will be branded with a three-peak mountain snowflake (3PMS or 3PMSF) symbol on its sidewall. Traditionally, this designation was used only on winter-specific tires, but as of late, more all-seasons have been receiving the certification as well.

Both winter and all-terrain tires have wider, deeper circumferential grooves for maximum water dispersion along with siping. This is where siping, tiny straight or zig-zagged grooves within the tread blocks, really comes in handy. As the sipes come into contact with a surface, they aid the tread blocks with better grip.

In more extreme cases, adding studs to or wrapping them in chains might be necessary. These studs are small pieces of metal that can literally be installed into the tire’s tread and help the tire dig into ice and snow.

When temperatures drop below 40 degrees or the terrain becomes rough, rocky, or muddy, an all-season tire isn’t going to cut it.

Milestar’s Patagonia A/T W is an excellent example of a studdable tire, which has small indents throughout the tread for stud installation and is supplemented with segmented wishbone tread blocks and silica compound for better overall grip.

Similarly, wrapping a tire in specialized tire chains also helps a tire dig to ice and snow, but can be harmful to the pavement when ice or snow isn’t present. Consulting both your car’s user manual as well as with a tire shop is highly recommended if you choose to go for either of these options.

When it comes to all-terrain tires, their inboard and outboard shoulders are typically comprised of lugs—extra large “chunks” of tread—in addition to most standard tire components. The Milestar Patagonia M/T is a great visual example of this. It features high void, lugged tread for maximum traction on rough terrain.

With All That Being Said…

No matter which brand of tire you decide to purchase for your vehicle, it’s essential to choose the right one for it as it could potentially have a huge financial impact. Driving on a winter tire year-round, for example, will yield much quicker tread wear along with poor overall gas mileage. On the flip side, driving on an ultra-high performance tire in inclement weather puts you at a much higher risk of hydroplaning and even crashing.

“The choice is yours, and yours alone. Good luck!”

On a Dime: Brake Tech – Theory and Warping

Theory and Warping

Your brakes are possibly one of the most important parts of your car or truck. However, it’s probably one of the least well known after the shocks. Let’s talk about the basic theory of your brakes and discuss what “warping” really is.

You need to stop or slow down for that next corner but letting off the gas won’t slow you enough in many cases. In those cases, you need to get on the binders. When you hit your brake pedal, fluid is sent from the brake master cylinder to your calipers and/or drum wheel cylinder to move a set of pads or shoes against a rotating surface.

Those pads and shoes are fitted with a friction material that clamps down on that surface to take kinetic energy, in our case that is wheel rotation. That then turns that kinetic energy into thermal energy from the friction between the friction material and the rotor or drum surface. This friction causes the wheel to slow until it is stopped.

Well, they don’t warp like a wet piece of board does.

While your tire’s traction will determine how effective your braking is, the coefficient of friction of the brake liner will determine how much bite the pads or shoes will have on the rotors or drums. That thermal energy is then radiated away by airflow over the surface area of the rotor or drum.

Discs or rotors of the disc brake system do an equal amount of the hot work of the brake system, but they also do more than just transfer heat. Their face designs help the pads do their job, but what about the issue of rotors “warping?” Well, they don’t warp like a wet piece of board does. What’s happening is that the pads are leaving some of their friction material on the rotor surface under harsh braking.

Notice that “warping” is in quotation marks here. Your rotors do not warp in the sense that wood warps when it gets wet. Instead, what’s happening is that the brake friction material is transferring unequally to the rotor face. This can happen because of unequal temperatures on the surface of the rotor, a hotter spot on the rotor will transfer more friction material onto the rotor surface than the colder spot.

…what’s happening is that the brake friction material is transferring unequally to the rotor face.

This creates an uneven surface that transfers into the brake calipers and creates the judder and vibrations associated with “brake warping.” When a technician resurfaces the rotor, they are removing that access material along with the rotor surface to create an even face again.

That’s not to say a brake rotor can’t warp, but if it does there’s a whole host of other problems going on and usually, the rotor will crack and break before that warping happens.

Now that we’ve covered that, how about those rotors or brake pads?

Bias Ply vs. Radial Ply Tires: What Is the Difference?

When it comes to your standard driving tires, bias ply hasn’t been a term used in decades to describe the latest and greatest tires coming out on high-performance cars. In the racing, trailer, and even motorcycle worlds we still see bias ply but, even then, it’s quickly being displaced by radial tires. So, what is a bias ply and why has it been replaced by radial ply tires?

What’s being referenced when you talk about bias ply and radial ply are how the cords that make up the carcass of the tire are run from bead to bead. You’ll never see it until you wear the tread beyond its rubber layer. The term “bias” and “radial” are describing how the patterns of the ply are done.

A bias ply tire has its plies in a crisscross pattern as they overlap each other. So, one ply will lay in one diagonal (between 30- and 40-degrees from the direction of travel) while the other will lay in the opposite direction and would make an “X” if you were able to see through them. You can have multiple plies in a bias ply tire, too, usually in 4, 6, 8, or even 10 plies.

Most will be 4 plies, though. Bias ply tires also use far more rubber to create both the sidewall and tread as well as being supported by the plies. This was how tires were done from the 1930s all the way into the 1970s, with the last few cars coming with a bias ply in or around 1974.

A bias ply tire is far more flexible, so they can make for great off-road tires and drag radials where sidewall flex is beneficial. They also exhibit better traction at low speeds and in straight-line travel.

[Bias ply] treads wear faster and exhibit more rolling resistance, so you go through more money as you use up the tires and your gas far more often.

Because so much rubber is used, they are far more resistant to cuts and punctures. However, because they use so much rubber and are more flexible, they lose traction in cornering because they tend to roll-over on to the sidewall.

The treads wear faster and exhibit more rolling resistance, so you go through more money as you use up the tires and your gas far more often. This also means you’ll get flat spots if you allow a bias ply tire to sit on the vehicle’s weight for too long. You’ll also feel like your wandering due to cracks, ruts, and bad driving surfaces as these tires tend to follow those deformations.

While the tread isn’t directional, the way you rotate bias ply tires for maintenance is specific to them. You’ll take a left rear tire and move it to the left front, left front to the right rear, right rear to the right front, and right front to the left rear. Well, unless you have five tires (where you can use the spare as a normal driving tire) and then the left front becomes the spare and the spare moves to the right rear.

A radial tire, however, has its plies in a 90-degree pattern from the direction of travel from bead to bead (or radially from the center of the tire and where they get their name from). They have been around longer than most people realize, with tire patents dating back to 1915 by Arthur Savage in San Diego, California (the patents expired in 1949).

In France, Michelin designed, developed, patented, and commercialized a radial design by their researcher, Marius Mignol, in 1946 and Michelin X radial tires were installed as a factory standard tire for the 1948 Citroen 2CV.

…[Radial ply tires] have been around longer than most people realize…

The first factory standard radial tire for the US is credited to the 1970 Lincoln Continental Mark III after the August 1968 issue of “Consumer Reports” showed that they had better tread life, better steering characteristics, and less rolling resistance.

What makes the radial superior to bias ply tires (outside of high-load capacity) is that those radial cords allow better flex. It makes a tire act more like a spring and improve riding comfort even as load capacity rating increases. This also increased tire life as the flexing required was easier than bias ply, which would resist and begin to overheat the tire. Because of its radial pattern and using less rubber, you’re able to run a much wider and flatter tire footprint.

These tires will also have a rigid set of belts to reinforce the tread, usually made of steel, Kevlar, polyester, Twaron, or sometimes even a combination of them. That means that your sidewall and tread function as two independent part of the tire instead of one like a bias ply.

These belts can also be added between plies to meet specific design goals like reinforcing the sidewall for puncture resistance, increasing load capacity, and many other objectives.

Because of that and the expansion of rubber compounds using silica, we’re starting to see more and more applications that use radial tires over bias ply. In racing, many tires are now radial over bias because of the advantages of feel and character of the radial.

Much like the carburetor, the bias ply won’t go away but it will be only around for the niche.

Even drag radials are offering more straight-line grip and sidewall flex needed for powerful launches on the strip with the added benefit of not needing inner tubes.

For off-road, radial tires offer better flex and more grip on the rocks and sand. Trailer tires have even begun to make the switch to radial, even in higher load capacities typically reserved for bias plies. If you’re trying to look period correct, there are even radial tires for you.

The short story is that the areas where bias ply dominated are no longer solely for them. Radials have become an acceptable replacement in those areas. As ply and rubber technology continues to improve, the need for any type of bias ply will be left for those who are just in it for numbers-matching correct restoration. Much like the carburetor, the bias ply won’t go away but it will be only around for the niche.

Is There an Ultra High Performance Tire Right for You?

You build your car and have made it look like something straight off the race track. However, you don’t plan on driving it on the track all that often. Should you really have a set of Ultra-High Performance tires (or commonly known as UHP tires) on something you don’t track?

Someone who builds a cool looking car that’s low and functional doesn’t always end up on the race tracks across the world. There’s nothing wrong with that and people have been doing that since the early days of hot rodding. Even if they do track their cars, many drivers assume they need UHP Summer or “R-compound” tires for their car when, in reality, they don’t need them for daily driving. They quickly realize they are starting to waste a lot of money on those rubber donuts.

This type of UHP tire is typically designed to be used in environments that are warm and dry enough that they provide the right amount of traction to drive fast. The tread itself is very thin, usually no more than 5/32-inch deep with few sipes and grooves.

They quickly realize they are starting to waste a lot of money on those rubber donuts.

This means the ultra-high performance tread pattern is focused on providing maximum grip to a “clean” driving surface and their tread blocks will have very few voids and channels for water evacuation. Their rubber compound will also be softer to provide more mechanical grip at the limit.

This also equates to a tire that can take some time to learn to drive on the limit with. Many times, they don’t make enough noise or even breakaway slowly. When you go over their limits, it characteristically happens fast and without any audible warnings like you get from your typical street tire. It’s why many track day teachers will tell you not to drive on a UHP tire on your first few events until you get used to your car and how to drive by feel rather than sound.

It’s these characteristics that also make a UHP Summer tire wear faster than a standard street tire and doesn’t work in all seasons. If you drive your car where it rains often or you must drive through even light snow, these tires won’t work. They just aren’t designed to evacuate precipitation that hits the ground and you’ll begin to hydroplane.

UHP Summer and even Winter tires aren’t meant for daily, yearlong driving…

While having a softer compound is great for cold climates—where normal street rubber would become harder and not grip—that compound will also wear much, much faster. Ultra-High Performance Summer and even Winter tires aren’t meant for daily, yearlong driving because they wear much faster in warmer weather.

However, that doesn’t mean there isn’t a UHP tire you can’t take advantage of. You should look at the UHP All-Season tire for your daily driving needs. These tires have the tread pattern to allow for water and even snow evacuation so you have grip in the wet. The tread is usually between 8/32- and 11/32-inch deep but their tread siping is also designed to support their neighboring tread blocks using interlocking sipes. This means, as you corner in a high-G load, the tread blocks support each other and prevent them from bending too much during cornering, decreasing heat that leads to tire tread chunking and degradation.

They also have a specific tread compound that works in both warm and cold environments as they contain more silica in the compound. The black color your tires have comes from carbon black. This carbon black also helps determine the softness of the rubber compound, so the more carbon black, the softer the compound is.

…UHP All-Season tires really can let you have your cake and eat it, too.

Tire manufacturers have begun to use silica (also known as silicon dioxide), a type of compound that many try to describe as sand. Silica is only a part of sand, however, as this compound is also found in quartz and even living organisms.

What makes silica amazing, and why it’s being used in UHP tires more often, is that it provides a lower rolling resistance while also improving the grip of rubber tires and results in a more elastic and flexible compound at lower temperatures versus similar tires with more carbon black. According to Rubber World, “The use of silica can result in a reduction in rolling resistance of 20% and can also improve wet skid performance by as much as 15%, substantially improving braking distances at the same time.”

So, UHP All-Season tires really can let you have your cake and eat it, too. However, if you are participating in a track day and have some experience under your belt, you should be using a set of UHP Summer tires then. If you’re just trying to look the part, you can stick with the UHP All-Seasons all year long. That way, you get the benefits of more grip without the headaches of spending money on constantly replacing worn tires and worrying about hydroplaning in the wet.

All for the Love

Ray Soria’s Lexus RC F In The Making

“I fell in love with the IS 250 when it was released in ’06 but never pulled the trigger to call it my own,” stated Laguna Beach, California resident Ray Soria. The following year, the F brand introduced the IS F as the import adversary to the BMW M3 and Mercedes-Benz C Class AMG. The Lexus F series models continued its production but for Soria, they seemed to lack the excitement and design that was needed to stir up his emotions.

Then in 2015, a new opportunity arose with the release of the RC F—the newest RC sports coupe that was branded as Lexus’s most powerful V8 performance car ever. This was the perfect pitch that immediately caught Soria’s attention.

“It was a no brainer, given the perfect opportunity in ’15 to purchase a brand new RC F and a suitable replacement for my GT500.” He was quick to admit that it wasn’t loved at first sight. “I thought the RC F was ugly when it was released.”

“I’ve owned a number of cars over the years but I wanted to try to build a Lexus. I liked the fact that it was rear-wheel drive, looked good, powered by a 467-hp 5.0L V8 (2UR-GSE) engine, and coupled to an 8 Speed Direct-Shift Automatic,” Soria recounts.

I thought the RC F was ugly when it was released.

As the Southern California import scene continued to evolve, so did Soria’s RC F. Car meets and local show events continued to flourish around him, which ultimately fed his desire to begin modifying his ride. His game plan was a simple, but ultimately time-consuming one; he would keep the engine and interior alterations of his Lexus to a bare minimum and devote all of his time into remaking the exterior.

It sounded easy enough but complementing the RC body already outfitted with wider wheels and tires, cooling ducts, an active rear wing, and stacked exhaust tailpipes is anything but. The complexities of it are actually one of the main reasons why you don’t see as many cleanly-executed RC Fs as you would on, say, an IS 250 or 350 model.

“I slowly began modding my ride over a two-year span with a plan for the car to be different than all the other RC Fs I saw online.” As promised, the outward appearance of his RC F was his main focus, as he outfitted it with a number of aero enhancements which consisted of an Alpheyga Carbon Fiber GTS spoiler and Lexon Carbon Fiber Diffuser but not before wrapping the body in Satin Black.

I’ve owned a number of cars over the years but I wanted to try to build a Lexus.

The added room from the factory fenders offers just enough space to house the aggressive staggered fitment of 20×10-inch and 20×11-inch HRE FF04 wheels in Tarmac Finish wrapped with Milestar MS932 XP+ 275/30-20 up front and 285/30-20 in the rear.

In the suspension department, an Airlift suspension kit was installed alongside an Airlift 3P management system. The end result was a comfortable and smooth cruise carving the canyon roads with no traffic to endure; one of the many guilty pleasures Soria enjoys partaking in.

Though Soria’s RC F is quite simple as a whole, we were impressed with the overall execution of his project. Often times, less is definitely more, especially when it comes to modifying a Lexus.

Going Big: A General Guide to 40-Inch Off-Road Tires

Going off-roading means you need 40-inch tires, right? Well, it depends. There are some things you need to take into consideration before going oversized.

First, we must confess that this is a bit of a generalization. What we’ll be discussing here might not be exactly what your truck or SUV needs to make that jump to a 40-inch tire. For example, your rig might come with axles strong enough to turn a 40-inch tires without breaking the splines or itself in half. You might be able to remove your fenders on your Jeep but the guy in the F150 can’t.

If you’re just a mall crawler, you might be fine with mostly stock stuff, but if you do go off-road, you’ll need upgrades. So, this will be a guide of things to take into consideration before plunking down cash on those big tires. We won’t touch on anything specific to any single vehicle.

Let’s start with the thing everyone points out as the first thing to change or at least modify: your axles. First, why? Why do you need to consider your axle when changing to larger diameter tires? Much of it has to do with the diameter and additional weight of the tires. Yes, you need to re-gear (and recalibrate your speedometer) to overcome the increased overall gear ratio. A 33-inch tire will have a rollout of 103.7-inches and will rotate 630 times per mile.

A 40-inch tire, on the other hand, will have a rollout of 125.7-inches and will rotate 517 times per mile and means you are going further on each rotation. By changing to a taller tire, you’ve essentially increased your overall gear ratio and will be showing a slower speed than what you’re actually doing. So, if you were doing 65-MPH with a 33×12.50, you’ll be doing nearly 80-MPH with a 40×13.50 while still showing 65-MPH.

…if you’re going with big tires, most likely plan on going with bigger axles at the same time.

This means you would not only have to recalibrate your speedometer but also need to re-gear to keep the engine RPMs close to the same for the corrected speed. Fortunately, there are many online calculators to help you determine what gear you need for the tire size increase as well as handheld tuners that allow you to recalibrate your speedometer for your tire size and gearing.

That won’t be the only problems with your axles, though. Because of the increased weight, you’ve also increased the rotational mass and resistance to rotation. This means you’ll need more torque and you’ll do that by adding power or decreasing your gear ratio or both. This increases stress on the axles and usually leads to failure at the splines and axle shafts on straight axles and, additionally, failure of U-joints or constant velocity joints on independent axles. So, if you’re going with big 40-inch tires, most likely plan on going with bigger axles at the same time.

You’ll probably want to invest in new driveshafts, as those will be the next weakest links when it comes to transferring torque to your axles. Most truck and SUV transmissions and transfer cases can operate fine with big tires, but you’ll want to inspect them more often or consider a swap out for heavier-duty versions from the aftermarket. You won’t necessarily need an Atlas or even an NP205, but definitely look for upgrades for your chain-driven New Process transfer case that will allow it to handle more torque. However, if you have a regular NP241, get something better or at least an NP241HD.

You’ll need a lift, even if you already have a 2- or even 3-inch lift you’ll need to go a bit higher to clear the tires. This is where an IFS suspension starts to lose its advantages as you raise the truck higher, it will continue to ruin the steering and feel of the truck or SUV. You’ll also wear parts out much quicker because of the stresses and the increased load of the lift as well as the tires.

…it’s probably best for only hardcore off-road rigs and showboaters.

You’re looking at a custom suspension regardless if you stay with your IFS or swap the front to a solid axle. For the rear with leaf springs, you’ll be able to find re-arched springs for a decent lift without needing to resort to a huge block for sprung-over axles (where leaf sits on top of the axle). For sprung-under, you’ll have to convert it to sprung-over or you’ll have arches so large it will be pointless.

If you don’t lift, the body will need extensive modification for a 40-inch tire to work. If you don’t want to cut sheet metal, your only other option will be to replace it with fiberglass parts made for prerunners and desert trucks. If you cut metal, most states will require you to have something to cover the tires and have clearance lights on fender extensions to remain legal. Easy to do on a Jeep, not so easy to accomplish on anything with a regular body.

You’ll also have to make sure the wheels you use to give you the right backspacing (offset) to clear those very wide tires. The rear can typically be more aggressive than the front and can get away with higher backspacing (lower offset). The fronts, however, need to be spaced so that you can turn properly and not rub the frame or suspension components. Again, in many states, there are also legal issues with tires rubbing the body and chassis.

Running 40-inch tires isn’t easy, in fact, it’s probably best for only hardcore off-road rigs and showboaters. It’s not impossible to run that big of a tire, but there are many, many things you need to consider before doing it. This is just a short list as there are explicit things you need to do to specific vehicles to run tires this big. The best piece of advice we can give you is to research. Look for who’s done it with a vehicle like yours and see the trials and tribulations they had to go through to make it work. Then, decide if you’re willing to do the same.

If not, there’s nothing wrong with running 35s on your truck, SUV or Jeep and they are plenty capable. Just ask the guys who race in the Ultra4 Every Man Challenge.

This Toyota Tacoma Build Is Ready for Anything

Venturing far off the beaten path takes preparation. The farther you wander from civilization, the more you need to be self-sufficient. The saying goes that two is one, and one is none, but it’s also easy to go overboard with parts and equipment. You can get so overloaded, you lose efficiency. Building something that has everything you need, and nothing you don’t takes careful execution.

One such truck that hits the mark is Noah Voloshin’s Toyota Tacoma. Amazingly it’s his first build, but he learned a lot helping friends on their vehicles. When it came time for his own, he knew exactly what he wanted. Everywhere you look on this truck you see the details that make it special. The quality of the components stand out, but the way they are so cleanly integrated into the truck really sets it apart.

If you look closely you will also notice the scratches and patina that lets you know this Tacoma is the real deal. Those don’t detract from the truck, they are like badges of honor. Souvenirs from a do or die rock climb, an overgrown goat trail, or a night spent hunkered down in the dirt during gale force winds.

Judging by the raw aluminum exposed on the beadlock rings of Noah’s Method Race Wheels, the aggressive tread design that wraps down onto the sidewalls of his Milestar Patagonia M/T tires has come in handy. Those gouges had to have come from big rocks, deep sand or course mud; all areas where the Patagonia M/T’s shine. They have taken everything Mother Nature has dished out.

They have taken everything Mother Nature has dished out.

Keeping the tires planted on the Tacoma is made possible by a custom suspension based on Total Chaos upper control arms in front, and Deaver progressive leaf springs in the rear; all damped by King Shocks.

It’s obvious that Noah’s Tacoma isn’t afraid to conquer tough terrain, so having the protection that covers both sides, front and rear is a must. Up front, a C4 Fab full plate front bumper provides protection while blending seamlessly with the DB Customz fab grill, and factory sheet metal.

The Tacoma’s bumper is loaded with essentials like recovery rings, and a Warn Zeon 12s platinum winch. It also mounts a full complement of Baja Designs LED lights. A light bar, fog lights, and ditch lights at each corner give Noah specific lighting for all conditions. His custom lighting covers the entire truck with supplemented rack, rock, reverse, and recovery lights. Along both sides of the Tacoma are C4 Fab rock sliders, and Pelfreybilt skid plates protect underneath.

Outback is a C4 Fab high clearance rear bumper with swingout. In addition to the recovery points and LED lighting like the front, it also carries a full sized spare, 2 Rotopax fuel containers and sand ladders.

With everything to get there and back, it was time to outfit the Toyota Tacoma for gear and other essentials. An AFE intake supplies clean air to the engine. For electrical storage, dual Odyssey batteries are used. Noah also carries an ARB twin air compressor. In the cab is a Goose Gear seat delete, and National Luna fridge freezer.

…makes one want to head out to the boonies…

A Solo Motorsports jack mount keeps the jack secured, and Leitner Designs bed rack and storage pods stow additional gear. A Front Runner Outfitters roof rack offers even more utility and creature comforts are provided by an Alucab rooftop tent and side awning.

Looking at this Toyota Tacoma and learning about its capabilities makes one want to head out to the boonies without a care in the world for some rest and relaxation.

Hot Rod Wagon:  Classically Modified 1955 Chevy Nomad

It’s a dream of many hot rod enthusiasts: to have a wicked looking Nomad Wagon. It is the staple of rare but “cool” to modify vehicles and Brian Hill of Hill’s Rod and Custom used his expertise to create this beautiful utility rodder out of his own 1955 model.

If there was one show and actor that helped cement the Nomad for modern hot rodders it was Tim Allen and his show, Home Improvement. That car is even listed as the 19th of the top 50 TV cars by Rod Authority back in 2016. It was owned by Allen and the 1956 Nomad was tied to the main character, Tim Taylor, but canonically the car was the daily driver of his on-screen wife, Jill.

However, it would be the episode titled “Don’t Tell Momma” that would cause every Nomad and Bel Air enthusiasts’ hearts to collectively sink when the car was “crushed” on accident. Fortunately, the stunt car was a four-door Bel Air with a wagon roof added, rear doors welded and smoothed enough for the shot, and crushed on-screen while the real 1956 Nomad wasn’t harmed.

…it’s not a proper looking Nomad if the top isn’t its signature pristine white…

He even pulled the car on set to show it was still around to the live audience for that show’s taping. It would eventually be sold for Ebay’s “Auction for America” on October 4^th, 2001 to benefit victims of the September 11^th attacks just a few weeks earlier.

Fortunately for Hill’s Rod and Custom in Pleasant Hill, CA, this 1955 model wasn’t crushed or destroyed but was still put through a full, frame-off restoration before it was modified. Brian Hill pulled every piece and part off to strip, bang, straighten and finally repaint his in the Lamborghini Orange Pearl. However, it’s not a proper looking Nomad if the top isn’t its signature pristine white for that classic two-tone look.

All the glass was then replaced with new reproduction versions with modern weather-stripping for a noise-free ride. This was done to make sure the Vintage Air heating and air-conditioning system didn’t leak the cool interior air to the Bay Area’s hot atmosphere.

…a 1955 Nomad that’s worthy of television stardom.

That’s even as this Nomad makes its own atmosphere when it arrives. The interior is a fully-custom leather that carefully compliments that Lambo orange and chrome touches throughout. New, but classic gauges complete the classic looks of the Tri-Five dashboard.

Those new gauges are designed to work with the TurnKey Engine Supply LS1 crate engine, a 5.7-liter displacement that makes 410-horsepower and 420-torque to the crank with its 10.25:1 compression. Inside, the rotating assembly is lead by a set of Mahle forged pistons and squeeze fuel and air into cathedral port GM heads.

It’s designed to be installed and ran as it included everything, even the throttle pedal for the LS1 electronic throttle body but its ECM is calibrated with a TurnKey tune so it doesn’t need a GM PATS key. The only change was the addition of “Nomad” script emblems on the engine covers and painting the intake to match the Lambo orange of the body. Its power is then sent to a GM 6L80E six-speed automatic transmission.

We certainly wouldn’t mind being caught in it.

To control sway and pitch as Brian drives his Nomad, a modern set of coilovers were installed up front but the rear retains its leaf spring design. It’s not a race car and you’ll be able to haul more utilitarian loads thanks to the leafs if you desire or need it.

It’s fitted with a set of 17-inch American Racing VN508 Super Nova 5 in a mirror chrome finish and wrapped in Milestar MS932 Sport tires in 205/50R17 front and 225/60R17 rear.

Brian Hill and Hill’s Rod and Custom have certainly designed a 1955 Nomad that’s worthy of television stardom. Thankfully, it doesn’t come with the usual headaches fame brings but instead gives its driver the comforts of modern cars with the looks of a great classic Tri-Five. We certainly wouldn’t mind being caught in it.

Challenging ’69 Charger

J. P. Miller’s Restoration of His 1969 Dodge Charger R/T Super Track Pack

We’re always told about stories of people who finally get their hero car and it often turns out to be so much work it gets abandoned. For J. P. Miller, he knew he had something special once this 1969 Dodge Charger R/T arrived, but it wasn’t ready for anything close to street duty when it did.

“It was a barn find out of Moscow, Idaho,” J. P. Miller began his recollection of when he first heard about this 1969 Charger. “A friend of mine and father of my Goddaughter, who also would end up doing the paintwork, found it in a ‘Penny Saver’ magazine in Spokane, Washington.”

J. P., like a lot of us, was a huge fan of the “Dukes of Hazzard” and its hero car Charger and often seen as a character itself, General Lee. His friend knew he was looking for a 1969 model to match it as J. P. wanted to build a General Lee replica. So, they contacted the owner in Idaho and that’s when the story turned into something more than just a remake of a classic cult car.

“It turned out he was basically holding a silent auction for the car,” said Miller, “so, it totally caught us off guard and basically he have people look at the car and what it was coming with, write their offer on a paper and folded it in an envelope, and then at the end of the week pull the offers out of it and award it to the highest bidder.”

…you won’t find any Bondo on this Charger…

So, Miller went with Price is Right rules and bid $10,001.01 to ensure that he at least was the highest he could predict. At the end of the week, he got a call from an Idaho number to tell him he had won and could pick up the car and all the parts that came with it.

Randy Scheurer then drove a rollback from Spokane to Moscow, Idaho and back with everything on and in it. From there, it was a ten-year process of stripping the car down and restoring it back to what you see before you. It was loaded on to a rotisserie and torn down to its bare chassis. After that, it was media blasted and acid dipped before taking it over to Doug Standerfer of Spokane Valley, Washington for the sheet metal work.

Very extensive sheet metal work as the quarter panels and taillight panel needed to be replaced but the rear window metal work and pillars were able to be repaired by Doug. However, you won’t find any Bondo on this Charger as the metal work included leading for a proper, time-proven repair.

The rear quarter panels and taillight surround all had to be remade and were some of the first stamped sheets from Auto Metal Direct (AMD) for the 1969 Charger. While brand new stamped panels aren’t too hard to find now, back in 2005 they and Year One were the only ones making them and the process was only beginning for AMD.

…these are bumps you must anticipate, and patience, as well as understanding, is required.

Their molds had yet to be tweaked from the car they created their bucks from, and the panels wouldn’t fit correctly right away due to the gauge of metal used wasn’t exactly factory original, either. When you’re this early in the game for a restoration of a car like this, these are bumps you must anticipate, and patience, as well as understanding, is required. J. P. knew the hurry-up-and-wait game would be worth it after researching the car.

In between all the restoration work, Miller decided to dig into the history of this car and found out it was an original R/T Super Track Pack with a 440-cubic-inch V8, four-speed transmission, and radio delete. Someone bought this with the intention of racing it and looking into the engine, which was blown apart from a track thrashing before being parked, it showed.

While J. P. wasn’t the only owner, he did a VIN track and contacted the third owner of the car. Needless to say, the former Air Force serviceman was blown away to know the car was not only still around but in the process of being restored back to its former glory, too. Especially in the state, he showed him at the time.

Yes, you read that correctly. The engine block was in pieces as some time in the 1980s a rod went through it. However, the entire car was numbers matching and that included that original 440 big block Mopar that would have been considered destroyed by other builders.

Miller took it to an engine shop in California that specialized “lost cause blocks.” He took a look at the block and found that, while there was a large hole in it, the webbing was intact and could be repaired. Other than a standard rebuild and putting the block back together again, the engine is factory original.

…far greater, much rarer, and a hero car to lust over in its own right.

At this point, it was now April of 2012, the metal work was done, the paint was factory matched, and the 1969 Dodge Charger R/T Super Track Pack was ready for final assembly. All of the key parts were sourced from Ed Wogulis’ The Mopar Shop in Madera, California while other parts and assembly help was done by Dave La Marche of Concord, California.

The car is as original as you can get, even the wheels are a Mopar set you would find under it, but it does sit on modern Milestar StreetSteel tires with raised white lettering for that proper 1969 street car look with contemporary grip and wear.

From the work J. P. Miller did, this has been one incredible restoration job. It’s possibly one of the best we’ve seen in a long time. While he wanted a General Lee, we feel that he’s come out with something far greater, much rarer, and a hero car to lust over in its own right.

38 Inch Special:
A Guide to 38 Inch Tires

Go into any current forum or social media group for Jeeps and 4x4s and you will find the most frequently asked question is “How big of a tire can I fit on my *insert 4×4 here*?” The question is posed so frequently that the query is “stickied” to the top of the forum page with countless replies. “You can fit 35 inch tires if you have…” “37 inch tireswork, but only if you’ve done…” “You need tons in order to run 40 inch tires…” (“Tons” is shorthand for 1-ton axles sourced from a pickup). They’ve all been asked.

These seemingly universal 4×4 questions have been answered in their entirety, which we won’t get into here. The Jeep community has seen the 37×12.50R17 become the ubiquitous size on any new Jeep. Go back just over a decade and 37s were the extreme size tire to have and only a handful of brands to choose from. 33s and 35s were BIG, but 37s meant you were serious! So how did this desire for ever-larger tires come to be so common and why is there such a jump in size going from 37 inch tires to 40 inch tires with no choice in between?

In today’s tire world, nearly every tire manufacturer has an All-Terrain (A/T) and a Mud-Terrain (M/T) in a 33, 35, or 37 inch tire that fits on a 17 inch rim. These sizes have become a standard upgrade for several reasons. First is 4×4 vehicles are bigger than ever before with auto manufacturers adding extra space, seats, and cargo capacity. Second, with the added space and creature comforts comes the weight.

33s and 35s were BIG, but 37s meant you were serious!

Everything gets bigger from the drivetrain, axles, brakes, steering to handle the extra weight and still be a capable vehicle. This transition to more capacity and capability was lead by growing popularity in outdoor activities amongst families. With the vehicles and their components getting bigger and adding capability, enthusiasts took to modifying them with greater earnest and in greater numbers. One of the easiest ways to add capability is by gaining clearance through a larger tire size.

It can be argued that this rapid expansion in tire sizes was brought about by the advent of a single vehicle: the 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JK). It dropped the iconic Inline 6-Cylinder for a V-6 that was better suited to a minivan than a 4×4. The improved approach and departure angles showed enthusiasts that Jeep engineers were focused on making a capable vehicle.

But the one change that was seen as heresy initially and is now beloved: 4 full doors. Jeep aficionados scorned the longer Wrangler, thinking it more of a minivan than a true Jeep. But over time, the extra wheelbase lent itself to improved off-road capability, with the right modifications.

Chief among them: Larger tires. Tires are the only thing that connects the vehicle to the ground. They are the easiest and quickest way to gain ground clearance, improve approach and departure angles, and provide that oh-so-desirable “tough” aesthetic that many enthusiasts are after. But there is a canyon in terms of budgets between running a 40 inch tire and the ubiquitous 37 inch tire.

But the one change that was seen as heresy initially and is now beloved: 4 full doors.

40s are an average of 40-60% more expensive than their 37 inch tire counterparts, and a lot of expensive changes have to be made to the vehicle in order to reliably run a 40 INCH tire as well. So what does an owner do when they want more than their 37s, but can’t afford or justify the required upgrades for 40s? Enter the Milestar Patagonia 38 inch.

While the 38×13.50R17 is only one inch taller than its smaller sibling—the 37 inch, it pays off in ways that become greater than one would initially think. It poses less strain on the hard parts that turn and drive the tires when compared to 40 inch tires. The 38 inch tire size clears factory brackets and bumpers and keeps any sort of body modification to a minimum.

Wheel offset, suspension bump stops, steering, and fenders all can stay the same if the vehicle has been properly kitted for 37’s. Where 37’s provide a better “stance”, the 38 inch tire make the vehicle look like it has 40s. All of this is gained with a reasonable bump in price on just the tires. Not only is the 38 inch Patagonia M/T taller, but it’s a bit wider at 13.50 inch giving the wheeler that much more of a footprint.

The tires’ C-Load Range is also a nod to the recreational wheelers as it is commonly thought that having some sidewall give, while still being 3-ply, will allow the tire to “grab traction” or “bite” when aired down. This is further supported when one takes into consideration that tire manufacturers often modify the construction material of the plys depending upon the load the tire is expected to bear and how much air pressure it is rated for.

…the added capability of a 40-inch tire, without the 40-inch wallet.

Strength is upheld with the Patagonia, while being a more focused 4×4 product. At 82 pounds, the 38 inch Patagonia M/T’s optimized construction is shown as it is the same lighter weight as many of it’s 37 inch competitors. This is important because added unsprung weight negatively affects suspension performance and ride quality.

In addition, extra weight also brings down fuel economy and increases wear and tear on the drivetrain and steering components. The 38 inch Patagonia M/T is constructed to balance strength, size, and weight; all major factors when enthusiasts start their 4×4 project.

The 38 inch Milestar Patagonia M/T is the choice when one wants the added capability of a 40-inch tire, without the 40-inch wallet. It is tailor-made for the recreation wheeler with its strong, yet pliable sidewall, all-important 17″ wheel construction, and true 38 inch tire sizing. Your next question is simply where will you buy your set?

Cowboy Cadillac: ’68 El Camino

Tim Clancy’s 1968 El Camino Has the Heart of a CTS-V

These days, it’s not uncommon to see pickups used as daily drivers, decked out with luxurious interiors more suited to a limousine than a work truck, and optioned out to the point where the additional features double the sticker price. But back in the muscle car era, pickups were seen as utilitarian tools, not status symbols. Ford, always looking to create new market segments, launched the Ranchero in the 1957 model year, and foreshadowing what would happen with the Mustang and Camaro a few years later, Chevy got into the game with their own El Camino in 1959.

Built on two-door station wagon platforms, these two original “utility coupes” were originally aimed at the Gentleman Farmer, with a bed large enough to carry a useful payload, but a car-like driving experience that the wife wouldn’t object to for weekend trips into town for shopping and Sunday services at First Baptist.

…business up front, party in the back…

While the Ranchero enjoyed a successful run, it was the El Camino that launched a “business up front, party in the back” fanbase that continues to this day, with intermittent pleas for General Motors to import the Holden Ute to the US like they had done with the Commodore (which was rebadged as the Pontiac GTO).

Unfortunately, with both Ford Australia and Holden out of the business of building vehicles, it’s unlikely that we will see the return of a domestic branded “utility coupe” to showrooms any time soon, but that doesn’t mean that things are hopeless for those desiring a Ute with modern power. Case in point: Tim Clancy’s 1968 Chevy El Camino.

“I’ve had it for about 24 years,” Clancy explains. “I paid 2,500 bucks for it. I drove it for a long time with the original 396 and Muncie 4-speed, and I just drove it until it started smoking so much that I had to stop driving it.”

Now, they say that old cars don’t die—people just run out of money to keep them going. But Clancy knew what he had, and didn’t want to part with it just yet. “About five years ago I started back in on it, doing some simple bodywork, and I got it painted and rechromed everything,” he recalls.

Now, they say that old cars don’t die—people just run out of money to keep them going.

Of course, the cosmetic fixes didn’t address the main reason why he parked it in the first place, and a quick rebuild of the big-block might have gotten his ElCo back on the road right away, but Tim had bigger plans in mind. Much bigger.

“It still had the 396 in it, so it sat for a while until I finally decided to pull the trigger and bought that LSA motor.” By which he is referring to the 6.2 liter supercharged LSA crate engine, derived from the 2009-2015 Cadillac CTS-V and 5th Gen Camaro ZL1, that currently resides between the front fenders of his El Camino.

“It was a hell of a deal,” he says, but writing the check payable to Chevrolet Performance was only the first step. “We had to refabricate everything in the engine compartment to move it all—all the reservoirs, cooling for the blower—it was quite an ordeal and a lot of work. Everything is essentially upgraded to 2017 standards,” he reveals.

Rated at 556 crank horsepower, with a little expert attention the true potential of the factory-stock crate engine was unlocked. Per Clancy, “I had it dyno tuned to around 605 horsepower, and eventually, we are going to upgrade it to about 850. But I am waiting for the warranty to run out—as long as there is that three-year warranty, I am going to hang with it.”

Backing the LSA is a T-56 manual transmission feeding power to a Mark Williams rear end stuffed with premium components including a NASCAR gearset. “it has a 5-link suspension with coilovers, but it is still light in the rear end, and when you reach the limit it wants to come around,” he admits. To fight that tendency, Clancy knew he needed high-performance rubber, but he didn’t want to sacrifice the look of the El Camino with a modern-style “pro touring” low profile wheel and tire combination.

Clancy says, “I could have gone with the normal ‘nostalgia’ radials on it, but I’d just end up dead in a ditch. I wanted the look but I needed tires that handle well. I’m just not willing to compromise on that.” The Chevy rolls on 15-inch “Rally” style wheels wrapped in Milestar Streetsteel radial all-season high-performance tires, which are designed specifically for muscle cars, hot rods, and classics. These tires blend current technology and timeless raised-white-letter styling to provide traction and handling that would seem like black magic back in ‘68.

600-plus rear wheel horsepower demands respect, especially considering that this Chevy is going to be handed down to the next generation. “I don’t sell cars,” Clancy explains. “When I do, I always regret it. I’ll keep all my cars and give them to my kid, and he’s also a serious gearhead.” With a modern drivetrain transplant, suspension upgrades, an interior refresh that kept things looking original, and tires that are up to the task, his 1968 El Camino is ready for whatever the next 50 years have in store.

“I have six other fast cars in the garage, but this is what I drive every day. I just really enjoy it. You can drive it hard and not worry about breaking it.”

Is Dan Fresh’s JL Wrangler the Perfect Combination of Form and Function?

When the 2018 JL Wrangler debuted, the Jeep-world went into a frenzy. Vehicle sales were busy, just as many expected. The aftermarket parts industry spared no time getting started with the design and production of new parts. The new model is extremely capable and stylish, something Dan Fresh of OC Motorsports in Costa Mesa, California wanted to be on the forefront of.

Dan and his crew at OC Motorsports transformed a stock 2018 JL Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon into an upscale culmination of form and function. The team worked with many industry-leading aftermarket parts companies to design a Jeep that could hold its own on the 2018 SEMA Show floor and also be used as a flagship for OC Motorsports events, all while also set to be a dependable race support vehicle.

Dan Fresh is a racer at heart. Over the years, he has been heavily involved and raced in trophy trucks, Jeepspeed, Ultra 4 and many more facets of the racing world. That meant straight from the start that this Jeep would be top shelf.

For any performance vehicle to work as it should, it needs to have great components. Dan and his team worked closely with Fox Factory to set the Jeep up with a full round of newly designed 3.0 Internal Bypass Shocks. The massive shocks also feature finned aluminum recirculating reservoirs with DSC Adjusters for quick tuning.

Shocks like those need to have some grunt supporting them. A Savvy Off Road 3.5-inch suspension lift was installed, including adjustable control arms along with a Currie Enterprises Antirock anti-sway bar in the rear.

The new suspension gave clearance for a healthy set of 40-inch Milestar Patagonia M/Ts, wrapped around matte black 17-inch Method Trail Series 701 wheels. A combination that gives the vehicle both the ground clearance, stance, and raw gripping power a true performer demands. Because the Jeep often goes from off-road to the street and back again, an Innovative JK Products ARB Under Seat Mount with Air Up and Air Down Kit was installed.

The Rubicon differentials were treated to a pair of Dana 44 AdvanTek covers to protect the gears and lockers. The Jeep’s steering linkage was swapped for a Synergy Heat Treated Chromoly Tie Rod and Drag Link kit with the support of a Fox Factory ATS steering stabilizer system. The power and torque are brought to the differentials via a pair of JE Reel 1350 CV Driveshafts.

Attention was also put on the body of the vehicle. Protecting the rails are Rock Slide Engineering Step Sliders with automatic steps. A Savvy high clearance rear bumper was installed, along with a spare tire/camera delete kit. The front received a prototype Savvy Hidden Winch Bumper with Hoop for Dan to test out on the trails and race courses. The body wrap was installed by Versatile Wraps.

Desert racing and adventures require light when the sun goes down and when the unforgiving terrain doesn’t let up. To battle the darkness, a host of Baja Designs LP9 and XL80 LED lights were installed.

The powertrain has been left mostly stock for now, save for a MagnaFlow Rock Crawler Stainless Exhaust System. Though, with the immense capabilities of the OC Motorsports team, there shouldn’t be any surprise if a HEMI V8 finds its way under the hood in the future.

The amount of work done to Dan’s JL is impressive, even more so in that it was all completed in a matter of two days. After proudly standing tall at the 2018 SEMA Show, the Jeep has been on numerous customer appreciation trail runs, desert race testing trips and regularly driven on the street for commuting duties. Soon, the Jeep will be working hard as support for King of the Hammers, Best In The Desert and SCORE International races.

This likely won’t be the end of the modifications for this Jeep, but it is a stellar start out of the gate.

Hip to be Square: 1974 Chevy Cheyenne

GM’s “Square Body” pickups are red hot these days, but Raymond Ernandez’s Cheyenne bucks the trend of pro touring over-restoration

Just like the muscle car is something that could only be invented in the USA, the pickup truck as a personal vehicle (and not just a farm implement or tradesman’s workhorse) is a uniquely American thing. Combine a two-door cab with a short bed and you have a vehicle with the intimate passenger compartment of a sports car and the practicality to haul a half-dozen beer kegs or a weekend’s worth of gear for the deer camp, should the need arise. It didn’t take much rationalization to talk yourself into one instead of a station wagon or four-door sedan, in the same way people convince themselves that a “crossover” SUV is a better answer to their needs than a minivan today. The single-cab short bed pickup perfectly occupied that space on the Venn diagram where coolness and practicality overlapped.

Between the 1973 and 1987 model year, General Motors built an absolute metric buttload of C/K series third-gen full-size pickups to this formula, and they proved to be popular, reliable, and to most people, disposable. Anyone who thought at the time they’d be sought-after rides thirty-five years down the line would be considered insane, but they’d also be right. Today, these “square body” pickups have a huge following, and you can’t do an online search for them without coming across a plethora of lovingly restored examples and scores of immaculate pro-touring builds.

The truck you see here is neither.

…perfectly occupied that space on the Venn diagram where coolness and practicality overlapped.

In Corvette-speak, it would be called a “survivor,” but a better term for Raymond Ernandez’ 1974 Chevy Cheyenne Super Custom Fleetside would be “honest.” Per Raymond, “I’ve always been a fan of the square-bodies, and when I spotted it, I knew it was a diamond in the rough.” Bought just over a year ago in (mostly) factory-original condition, this Spanish Yellow truck shows the years and the miles but has the kind of authenticity and honesty many enthusiasts try to restore away. Under the hood is the original 454 big block, topped by an anonymous chrome open element air filter perched on the 4-barrel and strapped with tubular headers of unknown origin, just like every Chevy V8 pickup wore back in the day.

“It’s currently a work in progress,” he admits, with only a few changes made since he obtained the truck. Three-inch drop spindles in front and a flip kit in back give the Cheyenne a modern stance, but the real key to the retro-cool look is the combination of 15-inch Rally wheels (8 inches wide up front, 10 in back) with Milestar Streetsteel tires in 245/60 and 295/50 profile front and rear. Tire technology has come a long way since the square-body trucks last left the assembly line, and these tires incorporate modern engineering with classic styling, including a contemporary all-season tread design and a timeless raised white letter sidewall. It’s the perfect combination of the right look for this truck with the performance that nothing from that era could touch.

…they proved to be popular, reliable, and to most people, disposable.

Raymond has a few different cars and trucks in his garage, but the Cheyenne gets the nod for both practical pickup duty and weekend outings. “I mainly take it to local truck shows and cruises where I can take my little boys along,” he explains. “They’re growing up to enjoy the truck and classic car scene.” While the C10 might have been unappreciated as more than just a working truck in its day, it’s great to see people like Raymond Ernandez passing the love of these once-overlooked mainstays of American automotive culture down to the next generation.

Living the Dream: The Impala SS

Raymond Ernandez’s 1962 Chevrolet Impala SS is the Fulfillment of Childhood Desire

Cars have inspired songwriters for decades, from the ‘30 Ford Woody in Jan & Dean’s Surf City to the epic battle between Ford and Cadillac Chuck Berry sang about in Maybelline, and of course Prince’s eponymous Little Red Corvette. But if you had to think of a song inspired by an engine, there’s only one that comes to mind: the Beach Boys’ 409. Chevy’s original big block V8 in its 409 cubic inch version didn’t just earn its reputation through displacement alone; it was rated at one horsepower per cube, the magic number for engine output in that era. Tonawanda built more than 15,000 of them in 1962, and they found their way into a select few factory performance packages, including the 1962 Impala SS.

That big Chevy with its now-iconic styling loomed large in Raymond Ernandez’s imagination as a child, and as an adult, owning a ‘62 Impala (and in particular, one with a 409) became an aspiration that had to be fulfilled. “As a young man, I grew up around Impalas,” he explains. “It was always one of my favorite cars and I always hoped to someday own one.” Fast forward to ten years ago, and the opportunity presented itself, but Raymond almost let it slip away.

“The guy who had it had a whole bunch of muscle cars, and he was doing some resto-mod stuff with them, putting in new engines and suspensions,” he explains. “We talked about the car, and I thought he wanted too much money because I didn’t really know what these cars were worth. I was interested, but I told him it wasn’t in my budget,” he recalls with a chuckle.

“With that motor, though, it was really worth what he was asking. So I just left it alone, but he ended up calling me back.” Eventually, a deal was struck, and Ernandez ended up acquiring the Impala for a relative bargain price. “Years went by and I worked on it, did the disc brakes and things, but until I started taking it to car shows where people recognized the car I didn’t really appreciate that motor. I had thought about putting in a 350 crate motor, and the guy at the shop I took it to just said, ‘I don’t want to pull this motor out…’”

That was definitely a wise choice, as the 409 under the hood wears the correct stamp for the car, adding to the authenticity of the big-block Impala. Due to issues with producing a transmission that could endure the 409’s torque, 1962 cars that were so equipped were only available with four-speed manual transmissions or the bulletproof Powerglide two speed automatic, but Ernandez’s SS has been tastefully upgraded with a TH400 built to handle the power. Other small changes have all been made with the goal of maintaining as much of the original car without over-restoring it, but still making it a practical, reliable, fun-to-drive classic.

A big part of that formula is the rolling stock — 17-inch five spoke wheels from Coys wrapped in Milestar MS932 Sport tires. These high-performance all-season radials are designed for a well-balanced response, excellent tread life, and superior all-weather traction, not that the Impala sees a lot of wet pavement, of course. A competent, comfortable touring tire like the MS932 Sport makes perfect sense on a car that’s intended to be driven, not just looked at, and the low-profile tires and retro-mod wheels are the perfect finishing touch to this Impala’s stance.

“It’s not like a perfect build, and it’s an older build,” Ernandez attests. “I don’t take it to big national shows, but I like going to local shows, and it’s won a lot of best-of-show.” Imperfect or not, in the end, the Impala is doing exactly what it should – making a kid’s dream come true every time the key is turned.

The Milestar CAN-AM UTV of Cora and Erik Jokinen

The Milestar Can-Am UTV of Cora and Erik Jokinen was originally built for an impossible task. When Ultra4 Racer Mike Bergman found himself without a car to race at King of the Hammers in 2017, CT Race Worx put this Can-Am together so he would at least have something to drive in the race.  He wasn’t racing it against other UTVs. Instead, he was going against the biggest and baddest Ultra4 unlimited cars. Despite being outgunned, the car qualified 50th out of about 200 cars and gave them all hell on race day. In 2018, Erik and Cora brought the car back but raced it at KOH with the other UTVs.

King of the Hammers combines long, open desert sections that are run at high speeds, with the toughest rock trails found in Johnson Valley, California known as the Hammer Trails. The course is diabolical with sand, ruts, whoops, and rocks, and that’s just the desert section. The rock trails are literally piles of boulders that cling to the sides of steep canyons. Big rocks, small rocks, round rocks, and sharp rocks. What the rocks don’t do to you gravity will. There are many off-camber side hills and steep drop-offs.

Despite having competed in the toughest single-day offroad race in the world twice, the Can-Am is not too exotic. Most of the modifications come right out of the CT Race Worx catalog and are bolt-on parts. The Can-Am runs ADS shocks and was used to develop the Jokinen’s Torque Locker differential lockers. The traction department also benefits from their Milestar tires.

When the only thing holding you to solid ground is your tires, they need to be the best. The Jokinens’ tire of choice is the Milestar Patagonia SXT. New for 2018 is the soft compound Black Label tire that has all the superior features found on the SXT but with a stickier rubber compound for even more traction. The SXT Black Label has the same Kevlar® belt package for strength and light weight as well as the deep, wide grooves with stone ejectors that help to disperse dirt and debris. The wide overlapping tread blocks maintain stability and improve sure-footed control during rapid acceleration and braking. The distinctive tread pattern provides excellent control in sand, silt, and rocks.

Cora & Erik got to put them to the test when they headed to Sand Hollow State Park in Utah after displaying the Can-Am in Milestar’s booth at the SEMA Show. “It was nice not to be in a serious competition and be able to just play around in the sand,” said Erik, “The scenery is spectacular and the sand is very fine and deep. I experimented with air pressure to get the maximum flotation in the sand. The way the tread wraps around the sidewall of the tire gave me excellent traction while aired down. We were in some big dunes but also hit some rocks and hard packed two-track trails. It was quite an experience; I’m hooked. We don’t have dunes in New York where we live.”

Erik says they will be racing Dirt Riot events back East next season and might even do some rock bouncing. That is where you point your UTV up a steep rutted, and rocky trail to see how fast you can make it up. It’s not for the faint of heart, but the fans love it. You need lots of traction, but also a tough tire that can take the incredible abuse. Their Milestar SXT’s will be the hot ticket in those conditions.

Milestar Tires Introduces the MS932 XP+:
An Ultra-High Performance
All-Season Tire

Summer may be gone, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have high-traction in these cold months. Milestar Tires brings a new Ultra-High Performance All-Season Passenger tire with the MS932 XP+.

It seems like a case of “have your cake and eat it, too,” but tire technology has progressed to the point where having an all-season tire isn’t a performance detriment. With more sedans gaining exciting, sporty variants and customers not looking for the inconvenience of changing wheels and tires during season changes, tire manufacturers have been developing tires that can stick but still carry a mud and snow rating. Milestar is no exception and introduces the MS932 XP+.

It all optimizes from the MS932 Sport and puts it into a new silica-infused rubber polymer. Injecting silica allows the rubber polymer to remain flexible under nearly all temperatures. To keep it sporty in both winter and wet conditions, the inside tread pattern is optimized to move water towards the outside tire edges. However, the wide ribs and large shoulder tread blocks retain dry traction in summer conditions. The wide grooves help reduce hydroplaning by giving water channels to flow into.

The 380AA rated rubber compound and plies under the tread allow it to retain a W-speed rating to match OE performance. With all of this performance, the MS932 XP+ is a comfortable tire to drive daily with low noise and great fuel efficiency numbers. Even so, it’s a long-lasting tire with a 40-thousand-mile limited warranty. The MS932 XP+ comes in popular performance sizes in 18, 19, 20, and 22-inch wheel diameters, so nearly every performance car will have a tire for them.

If you’re looking for a tire for your high-performance sedan, Milestar Tires has a new tire for you. The MS932 XP+ gives you the all-season performance with mud and snow rating without degrading dry performance. Find your local tire dealer and ask for a set of Milestar MS932 XP+ before winter hits in full.

A C10 Across All Ages

Mike Hegarty’s 1971 Chevrolet C10

Found in a town not far from where Mike Hegarty lives was a 1971 Chevrolet C10. From its side of the road beginnings, this C10 has become an OEM Plus conversion using all original GM parts.

When Mike Hegarty took possession of the ’71 C10, the fenders were, strangely, removed. There was no crash damage that he could find and, to make matters worse, they were placed in the bed face down. You might not think that would be a big deal, but it used to have a camper on it with a carpet in the floor. At some point before placing the fenders there, that camper was pulled off. Rainwater collected in the carpet and ruined the front fenders.

Mike isn’t one for reproduction stuff. “I like to use all original GM stuff,” Mike admits, “I’m big reproduction fan.” He accounts that to fit and finish issues he’s had in the past. He found a set of original C10 fenders and began to improve many of the parts on the truck. In a way, he kind of had to as it was a strangely built truck to begin with. It had manual front disc brakes, a manual steering box, a one-ton four-speed transmission, a manual hand throttle (like tow truck chassis had), a rubber one-piece floor mat, no chrome trim, factory painted bumpers, factory air conditioning, and a 3.08:1 rear end with posi-traction. It was an oddball of a truck and the only two options listed on the body tag were for the factory air and the posi-traction. Otherwise, it was no frills or thrills from the factory floor.

To make it look nicer, Mike searched for improved GM factory parts to replace the boring parts. Again, nothing on this truck is reproduction GM parts. These are all New Old Stock or NOS. The grille, taillights, tailgate trim, tailgate spat, bumpers front and rear, all of it was original from the General from the 1970s. Originally, he was putting it back together to eventually sell as that is something he does and did with his dad, Ed, for many years at Deal Auto Wreckers.

They would get GM cars and take parts off optioned-out junked cars and resell them. Keep in mind, this was also during a time when numbers matching didn’t mean anything. As he was putting this C10 back together, Mike started to like its character and continued to improve it with all the original GM parts he could find. He settled with a built Turbo 400 from Broadway Automotive & Transmission in Oakland, CA and was happy with it.

That is until the camshaft of the original 350-cu.in. four-bolt truck engine ground itself flat thanks to low-zinc, non-additive oil. So, out went that old engine and in went a 1969 dated 350-cu.in. Small Block Chevy with a four-bolt main. The heads were over-the-parts-counter GM, road race style angled plug heads made for ripping above 4500-RPM. It also features a 69 to 70 Z/28 high-rise intake manifold with a 780-CFM Holley 4053 DZ carburetor with the matching factory 69 Z/28 air cleaner. He even installed the big pulley alternator that the big-horsepower GM engines came with.

2.5-inch Corvette “Ram Horn” manifolds were installed but required some clearance massaging at the top of the frame rail to fit. While parts of the bracketry had to also be modified, the original A/C system is still installed. “When you open the hood,” says Mike, “I wanted it to look like the entire engine was stolen out of a 1969 Camaro Z/28.” That also means the steering and brakes were replaced with original GM power parts for a much easier drive. He’s also installed all the optional gauges you could originally get save for the original Speed Warning speedometer. “It’s a loaded option truck that I’ve taken off other trucks,” says Mike, “so none of it is reproduction.”

There are only a few non-GM parts on the truck but the part that Mike admits people were more impressed with, even with all the original GM option parts, is the gas cap. Between the cab and the bed is a four-inch wide panel and the gas cap is hidden and flush mounted into that panel. “When you look at the bed,” says Mike, “It looks like a stock truck other than the top trim panel and that’s where the gas cap is.” The only other part that’s not GM but are 100-percent original are the Halibrand 15×8.5 wheels with Milestar Streetsteel tires in 275/60R15. The knock-off caps are just original Halibrand caps to cover the lug nuts. The final bit of non-factory upgrade parts is the Early Classic Enterprises suspension kit to give it a lower, but still usable stance and improved handling, especially thanks to the addition of the adjustable Super Track Bar Kit to help center the rear end.

Before we leave you, there is are two interesting stories about the paint and scallops on the sides of the C10. It’s a factory GM white for the C10 but was shot by “The Garbage Man,” a buddy of Mike’s not far from where he lives. “I’m not kidding,” he laughed, “It was painted in the nastiest little garage you could ever imagine.” His nephew, who is also a vehicle painter over at Eastbay Speed and Custom in Concord, CA, went with Mike to pick up the truck when it was done. He was used to clean body shops and pristine equipment before this. When they arrived at the garage, he asked where it was painted when the Garbage Man said, “It was painted in here.” His nephew was flabbergasted and now looks up to him.

Finally, before taking the truck home and before Mike’s nephew met his new painting hero, he wanted to put scallops on the sides of the truck. He knew he wanted them to match the blue of the factory interior, so he called up a local scallop artist who quoted him an astronomical price. He was good, but not that good. So, Mike and the Garbage Man laid some stripe tape down, got it to where they wanted it, and painted the scallops on the sides of the C10.

While there is a movement in the modern vehicle building world for “OEM Plus” builds, where high-end option parts are installed on a vehicle, the idea is to make it better than it originally was with factory parts. Mike Hegarty’s 1971 C10 shows that this method can also be applied to classic American vehicles, though it may take a little more time, research, and reach. The results are just as impressive in the end, too.

All Surfaces, All Traction

What Is an All-Terrain Tire?

Want a tire that gives you traction no matter where you are? Well, that doesn’t exist but there is a tire that gives you great all-around traction with some compromises. That tire is the All-Terrain – or AT – tire, which used to be a single category until recently. We’ll go over the most common versions of the AT in this story.

Unlike the MT tire, the All-Terrain is a compromise between on-road comfort and off-road capability. AT tires don’t generally excel in either area but work at their best in either. They feature smaller tread blocks for the best on-road noise and wet surface grip, but the blocks are still large and aggressive enough to be used in dirt and light rock off-road conditions. However, there has been a change in how an AT tire is designed and now there are two types of tire designs within the AT tire class. Each type of AT gets closer to the MT design.

The classic AT, like the Patagonia A/T W, is designed with more on-road performance than off. Some will call this an AP (All-Purpose) or Trail type All-Terrain but there is a specific All-Purpose tire category. So, calling an AT an AP tire is technically wrong. This is mostly because it’s capable of going off-road, but its smaller tread blocks and grooves allow mud to “stick” to the tire more. This reduces traction in that condition, but the smaller tread and harder tread compound mean that it won’t do well in rock crawling conditions.

The tread also doesn’t travel down into the sidewall and it features fewer belts than the MT tire. The sidewall ply and bead design will also only allow for normal tire pressures of 30-PSI and above. When people think of “truck tires,” like what you’d see on mid- and full-size pickup trucks and SUVs, this tire design is what they will picture. It’s perfect for trucks and SUVs that don’t see much off-road action, but if it does, it’s only going to be down a dirt road.

The next step in the AT ladder is the AT-X or AT-R tire. This type features larger blocks than the standard AT and you can see this in the Patagonia A/T R. The tread blocks are much more aggressive and somewhat larger, and the sidewall of an AT-X has some tread, but not to the extent of a full MT tire. It also features more siping than an MT, but not as much as the AT. Again, the siping is there to reduce squirm and improve wet road surface traction by giving water an evacuation path. The AT-R or AT-X type All-Terrain tire is perfect for vehicles that see more off-road surfaces but still travel mainly on surface streets. It’s probably not going to work well as a rock crawler or dune tire, but you’ll be able to get to your favorite off-road and camping spots with no issues.

What both types of AT tires feature is reduced road noise. This is an integral feature of any tire that has smaller tread blocks and more grooves and sipes. When the tread rotates onto the road surface, it compresses the air. That loads up air like a spring and when it escapes, it does so at Mach speeds from the energy it gains from being compressed. If the air has a path or pocket to escape to, it reduces that compression and potential energy. That slows down the air’s speed and you no longer hear the howl as you do of an MT tire.

The AT tire is the best compromise of on-road manners and off-road capability. You’re not going to be crawling up Jackhammer with either AT tire, but you’ll produce less noise than the MT tire. You’ll be able to get to a spot where you can watch your favorite Ultra4 racer and drive home with more wet surface traction than the mud tire. If you want more off-road traction, then the AT-R or AT-X will be a better choice. You’ll get a more aggressive look than the AT and better performance off the asphalt, too. However, if you need absolute off-road traction, then you’ll have to consider something more aggressive.

High School Sweetheart:
A ’70 Chevelle to Remember

When Mike Hegarty was just 17 years old in 1981, he bought a $1000 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle that he was going to flip for his friend, Bob. However, after driving it, he called his buddy to tell him he had good news and bad.

“The good news,” Mike said, “is that I’m in love.” His buddy, not sure what Mike was on about, asked him what the bad news was. “It’s with this car you’re supposed to be buying and you’re not getting it,” he laughed. Bob, though sad was very understandable about the situation. Even at just 11 years old, a 1970 Chevelle was still too hard to pass up. It was a car Mike could never truly part with considering he’s had it for 37 years now.

It’s not the perfect Chevelle, mind. “The engine numbers don’t match,” admits Mike, “but any car that was designed from the factory to beat on wouldn’t be.” His car has even had several engines, transmissions, and rear ends changed two or three times since he’s owned it. “I’ve always treated the car like it was meant to be,” he continued, “It’s a hot rod. I can leave the car sit for a year, get in it and drive it a mile and start side-stepping the clutch and driving it hard.”

That wasn’t its only imperfections. The paint was lacquer checked, also known as crows’ feet, where it starts to crack due to weather exposure. “About two-thirds of the paint is still original with spotting here or there to fix it,” he says. Ironically, when he bought it, a car would have been sanded back down and resprayed to get rid of it, “now, the world has changed, and this look is desirable. It doesn’t need a paint job,” Mike laughed.

The engine currently in it is a 1973 454-cu.in. Big Block Chevy V8, but not much had been done to it. It came out of an old motorhome that his Uncle John had and ran very strong. The motorhome was also the tow vehicle for the Bonneville race car they owned. It was tough enough to outlast the body panels that were slowly being eaten away by the salt. So, when they finally rotted away, Mike pulled that hard running 454 out and put it into his Chevelle.

It still has the four-speed M21 Muncie, but now has a bolt-on Gear Vendors overdrive unit sending power to the rear end that was installed by Broadway Automotive & Transmission in Oakland, CA. “It’s getting tired now,” says Mike, “it’s starting to get a little grey smoke when I start it up in the morning.” The plan is to replace it with a new Chevy Big Block of some sort.

The transmission tunnel had to be modified due to the overdrive unit, so it and the hump in the seats were modified for its fitment. That’s not to say it’s not improved upon. Much like his C-10, this 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle would get option parts from wrecked classics from his dad’s, Ed Hegarty, wrecking yard – Deal Auto Wreckers. For many, many years, his dad, known as “The Deal Father,” and this yard were the source for classic GM and other vintage car parts. He was also a member of the Bonneville 200MPH Club with his partner, Dave Dozier in the Chrysler flat-eight powered Dozier and Hegarty Streamliner. It had a top speed of 233-MPH and went 300-plus-MPH in 1994, the first-ever Hemi-crate engine steamliners to do so.

His Chrysler connections didn’t stop there, either. From 1996 to 2001, Ed supplied Plymouth “Hemi” ‘Cuda Convertibles for the CBS TV show, Nash Bridges. They weren’t the star cars but were the dummy and stunt cars that would get torn up. A few were even six-cylinder powered versions. Probably the prized cars in his collection, however, were the Grand National Roadster Show America’s Most Beautiful Roadster (AMBR) winning “Deuceari,” a Ferrari 330-powered 1932 Ford highboy and the 1940 Dick Bertolucci/Buddy Ohanesian built 1940 Mercury. A ’40 Mercury convertible sedan turned with a custom hardtop in the 1950s. Sadly, Ed passed away in December of 2012 and Deal Auto Wreckers closed permanently not many years after.

Going back to the Chevelle, the suspension is still the stock suspension as from factory, with only wearing parts replaced not long ago. “Just a year ago,” Mike admitted, “I replaced the worn-out shocks, brakes pads and shoes, and wheel cylinders.” It has “OEM Plus” modifications, just like his C10 but from other GM cars. The seat is a recovered Strato Bench seat, a bench that has a folding center armrest, pulled from a mid-size GM car. Though, it had to have its tunnel reshaped to also fit the overdrive unit just like the transmission tunnel in the floor. The Chevelle also has power windows and brakes and even features the fiber optic headlight monitors on the fenders. The wheels, though, are Halibrands in 15×7 and 15×8 with simulated “knock off” center caps wrapped in classic looking Milestar Streetsteel tires in 245/60 front and 275/60R15 rear.

If you’re surprised by the lack of hot, over-the-top parts, you’re in short company. “You know,” says Mike, “not every car needs to be a show car or even a hot rod.” We can’t help but agree after looking at both of his examples. This 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle is a great example of a car that’s cool just for how original GM it is. Sure, it’s modified but it’s all parts that were available from GM for the Chevelle or any of their other mid-sized cars. Working with factory parts, even NOS parts, means you are getting factory fit and quality. It’s a great lesson on how to build a hot rod without breaking the bank and building with overly expensive and custom parts.

Max Traction

What Is a Mud Terrain Tire?

When you think of the ultimate off-road machine, you probably imagine it having Mud Terrain – or MT – tires. What makes an MT such a specific tire? We’ll answer that today.

A Mud Terrain tire, like the Milestar Patagonia M/T, is designed for extreme off-road terrain. Despite its name, the MT is used in more than just muddy conditions. The focus of this tire type is debris ejection, be it mud or stones. Clearing out the grooves naturally with tire rotation allows the tread block leading edge to grab the next portion of the surface and “claw” through it. So, the grooves act sort of like a scoop. Otherwise, the grooves fill up and the tire loses traction.

However, an innovation made by Mickey Thompson in the 1960s and featured on nearly every MT tire since is the sidewall tread. Allowing the tread to continue down the sidewall of the tire gives the MT another area for traction in rocky and silty sand conditions. When aired down, the MT’s sidewall tread also helps to increase the tread width as the tires flatten out under vehicle weight.

Because it’s made to be aired down, the MT tires carcass is also designed much differently than a regular street tire like the Milestar Grantland. It typically features more belts to deal with the additional stress airing down creates on the sidewalls. Those belts are also designed to flex despite adding more of them. The beads are also designed to hold on to the rim at lower pressures, usually down to about 20-PSI before needing beadlocks. However, that’s not true for all MT tires. Some can go lower, some can’t go that low without a beadlock. Again, it’s up to the design so always follow the recommendations and warnings from your tire.

One of the biggest down falls of the MT tire is noise. Large tread blocks compress air into the ground, putting it under extreme pressure at the microscopic level. When the tread rotates, that highly compressed air shoots out at Mach speeds and creates the howling noise that’s typical of a very aggressive and blocky tread pattern. The other disadvantage to those large tread blocks is squirm, traction in wet road conditions, and rubber compound life.

Squirm is the movement of the tread on the road surface as the tire drives down the road. Because of its large size, the large lugs will squirm more and create heat. That heat travels through the lugs to spots where it can’t cool off and creates hot spots. The combination of squirm and hot spots creates weaknesses in the lug and can cause chunking. Squirm is typically worse on the steering axle than the drive axle, but the drive axle can still see some squirm as you accelerate on changing road conditions.

Despite its great off-road traction, wet asphalt or concrete surfaces will be its weakest points. Those large tread blocks with no grooves have a reduced amount of water removal. While the water can travel around the blocks, the blocks contacting the surface is trying to squish down water that’s between it and the road surface. Since the water is a nearly incompressible fluid, the tread rides above the surface. This is hydroplaning, which reduces traction to zero because the rubber can no longer form with the road, which is what creates grip.

A tire’s rubber compound, which arbitrarily describes the softness or hardness of rubber in tires, can also increase grip if its softer. Many MT tires are softer than their road cousins due to the requirement of traction in sand and rocks. That also means that a MT tire won’t always last as long as regular road tires. Not always, but a majority will not.

However, modern MT tires like the Patagonia M/T are designed with mixed surfaces in mind. So, while the tread blocks are still larger than a standard road tire, they feature additional grooves and purpose made sipes. The sipes allow the tread to move in smaller sizes, reducing the squirm when compared to a fully solid tread lug. The combination of grooves and sipes also helps in removing water so the tread can grip on wet asphalt and concrete roads. They also help reduce road noise by giving air an escape route before being compressed into the road.

Do you need a MT tire? Maybe. Maybe not. The only way to answer that is to ask yourself this question. “Where am I using my vehicle the most?” If you’re mostly running on surface streets with little to no off-road use, then you don’t need a MT tire. If you’re response is the opposite, how often are you on those off-road conditions and can you deal with more road noise produced by those tires? If you just want a tire that looks cool and don’t care about noise and wet surface traction, you can’t beat the aggressive looks of the MT but there still might be a tire right for you that isn’t a MT.

The Silver Stallion: ’68 Ford Bronco

Bryan Battaglini’s 1968 Ford Bronco

There’s something about a well-built classic vehicle that can get any gearhead’s heart pumping. In a sea of long wheelbase late model rigs with Bluetooth connected radios, electronic nanny stability control, and angry grilles, classic off-road rigs stand out as the cool grandpa that blazed the way for the kids. 

Well kids, grandpa has a new hip and he’s here to show you how it’s done, with style. Bryan Battaglini’s 1968 Ford Bronco has got more than enough style and all the right parts. “I love the classic Bronco.” Bryan proclaimed. “It has great lines and will always be a crowd favorite.”

We spent some time with ogling the classic stallion to get photos so we could share this beauty with you. Don’t worry, we didn’t get any drool on it.

Inside and out, Bryan’s Bronco is chockfull of class and style, blending old-school and proven technology with some modern upticks to really make it shine. The body was fitted with fiberglass front fenders, a forced-air hood was installed with gas shocks, then the whole thing was painted in PPG’s Silver Birch paint with a clear coat. A ProtoFab front bumper houses a Smittybilt X20 winch with a complementary ProtoFab rear bumper and a tire swing hanging out back.

Under that performance hood is a 1990 5.0L fuel-injected V8, loaded with shorty headers, an upgraded camshaft, and a large aluminum radiator to keep it cool. The beast exhales through a Magnaflow exhaust system while it pushes power out to the NV3550 manual 5-speed transmission and Advance Adapters Atlas transfer case.

That power gets split to Dana 44 differentials front and rear. Both diffs are loaded with ARB Air Lockers for the extra bite that is sometimes needed. All that traction leads down to a full set of 37-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T rubbers wrapped around 17-inch Level 8 Bully Pro Lock Wheels. On why he chose the Patagonias, Bryan said: “they look killer, have great traction and are very quiet on the road.”

The interior of the Bronc’ is loaded too. The fully Rhino lined interior sports an all-new electrical system with a MegaSquirt MS3 Pro computer and Flaming River tilt steering column. A Pioneer head-unit drives JBL speakers for classic tunes on any trail while riders are sitting comfortably in a set of Corbeau racing seats.

The whole rig sits on a Wild Horses 5.5-inch suspension lift, front and rear and uses dual shock hoops with dual shocks at all four corners. A 2-inch body lift gives the extra bit of clearance needed to not chop the body up for those big Milestar meats.

All said and done, the dust finally settled after a 2-year build time, Bryan is excited to continue vetting his classic rig on new terrains. “I have not put it to its full potential yet,” said Bryan. “It’s great on and off road and even as tall as it is, it still cruises on the freeway great.”

What Are LED Lights?

If you want bright but don’t want lights the size of Texas, you didn’t have much choice but to buy HID lights for your specific needs. However, a new light has been on the market and has constantly gotten better and less expensive with age. It’s the LED Light.

LED, or Light Emitting Diode, is the latest and greatest technology in lighting now. It uses a two-lead semiconductor light source that works like a p-n junction diode. If you don’t know what that is, imagine two plates sandwiching two types of conductive material. One material has electrons from the voltage applied to it while the other material has electron holes. When enough voltage is applied the electrons recombine with the holes and produces energy in the form of photons and you get light.

With halogen and HID, you can’t combine multiple patterns into one light source. You can’t have one eight-inch light that was both spot and driving – it’s one or the other. With the size of LEDs, you can get many different light patterns on the same source. Despite how bright they are, LEDs are very small usually no smaller than your pinky nail (or smaller if you have big hands). That yellow dot you see on most light circuit boards is the LED. Despite its diminutive size, it has the brightness and power to outclass many HID lights you see right now. Thanks to that you can package a very powerful light system on your vehicle without having to clutter it up.

The other bonus it has over HID is that it’s instant power up – you don’t have to wait for the plasma to build and warm up because there isn’t one. However, even LEDs, for their size and positives, have some drawbacks. LEDs are prone to producing more heat and manufacturers must take that into account when designing their lights. That includes the housings and circuit boards. That’s what adds costs to the housings because it must be waterproof, the LED can’t be exposed to outside elements, and there can be vibration issues. Even with its high cost, you can’t take away that its instant power, it can last 50-thousand-hours (if you buy from a reputable manufacturer), and you can buy fewer lights but can light up more areas.

So, if you’re looking to get your first set of off-road lights, which way should you go? Should you still use halogen? Save a little more for HID? Or are LEDs the better investment? While there will always be other factors, saving your money and getting a good, high quality LED setup isn’t a bad idea. It’s getting to the point where it’s not worth investing into a halogen or HID system because you can get so much more performance and longevity out of an LED.

With halogen lights, you get 250- to 300-hours of life out of them. With HID, it’s 3- to 5-thousand-hours. LEDs from a reputable company that engineers the product from start to finish will last up to 50-thousand-hours. You’ll probably go through several cars with a quality LED light. The only limitation is if there is an LED application for your vehicle outside universal products. However, there is always someone who makes an LED bulb to replace your headlights, fog lights, turn signals, and many other lights.

LED lights are the future for everyone. Initially more expensive than halogen and just about the same cost or just a little less expensive than HID, LEDs feature a longer life and better performance than either one. If you’re considering going LED for your project, it should be no brainer. Just be sure to purchase yours from someone you can trust, and you’ll get a long life out of it. Maybe even longer than your car lasts.

What Are HID Lights?

If you’re going fast, anything over 90-MPH, or setting off in the pitch dark of the desert, you need a light that will keep up and put light far down range. You need the High-Intensity Discharge (HID) light.

To get light beyond the mid-range you need lights that are brighter than what even a 100-watt halogen is capable of. “The HID Light opened up the entire world of what a light can do and being able to drive off of it,” says Trent Kirby, operations manager of Baja Designs, “because it produced more performance and a brighter light in the same power consumption of a halogen bulb, it opened up the world to distinct types of beam patterns. It allowed us to go beyond your traditional Euro beam and spotlights.”

What makes an HID perform better and brighter is that, instead of a halogen/tungsten chemical reaction, it uses the electrical arc of two tungsten electrodes inside a tube filled with gas and metal salts. Once that arc starts, the metal salts become plasma and increase the light produced by the arc and begin to reduce the power consumption of the light. The ballast you must use is needed to start the arc and maintain it, but the power required to drive the ballast is within the typical automotive electrical system including vehicles that used halogen lights originally. It also lasts longer than halogen with most systems lasting to about three- to five-thousand-hours.

An HID system does come with some complications over a halogen bulb and you must think of things like packaging, waterproofing, and dealing with the initial surge and warmup of the plasma inside the bulb. There are a couple of different configurations of HID lights. One is where you have an external ballast and that sits near the back of the light or you can put it in the engine bay. The other allows you to have an internal ballast.

The internal ballast has a huge advantage for harsh conditions because it won’t allow the ballast to be exposed to the environments, especially off-road drivers because that decreases reliability and longevity versus an exposed ballast. It can also make for one less part to have to package, but the internal ballast light might be bulkier. Again, it’s something you must plan out when building your lights.

One of the first cars to appear with HID lights was the 1991 BMW 750iL in low-beam only, known as Litronic. The 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII was the first effort by a US Domestic manufacturer and was the only car with direct current (DC) ballast HIDs. Most ballasts at the time, and in use today, use an alternating current (AC) inverter. This allows the current to flow through both electrodes. While DC allows for simpler ballasts, it does wear the electrode that gets constant power more quickly whereas AC can allow for more equal wear, fewer fluctuations, and reduction in flicker.

Even so, the light you get out as either a headlamp or an auxiliary light like a fog or off-road light allows you to see much further than standard halogen bulbs. Never mind the advantage over the sealed beam filament light. If you need to send light beyond halogen light or you’re approaching speeds of over 95-MPH, it’s time to start thinking of better lights and start with HID.

Bronco Buster

Bruce Winsatt’s 1971 Ford Bronco Sport

Full-size Ford Broncos are really hot right now, but the Early Model Broncos have always been highly desirable. Early Broncos bring top dollar; whether they are stock, restored, or highly modified. One Early Bronco owner is well aware of this. Bruce Winsatt had owned several full-size versions before he found this 1971 Ford Bronco early model. He was looking for a good project to undertake with his son Brandon, who was 15 years old at the time, when they found the Bronco in Pueblo, Colorado. It was a good candidate for a modified build as it was in a rather rough shape.

“The truck was in sad condition with a tired engine, a 3-speed transmission that too often would stick in second gear, and it had serious rust and holes in the floorboards,” says Bruce, “The rust was so bad, you could see the road go by from inside the truck. Having never taken on this level of restoration, we did a lot of research, talked to some great resources, and then jumped in with all 4 feet. We tore everything out, but in hindsight, we should have removed the body from the frame too.”

Like many automotive projects, you turn over a rock and find more rocks underneath. After the bodywork was finished, they had a big issue. After several attempts to align the doors, they discovered that like many nearly 50-year-old trucks, the frame had a twist in it. The frame was straightened, but in order to get the doors to line up, they would have to perform some serious sheet metal surgery. The custom half doors on each side solved their problem and add to the rugged look of the truck.

With the body sorted out and coated with Tangelo Orange paint, it was time to tackle the mechanicals. Here is where Bruce was able to pass on his knowledge to Brandon. They went through every system on the Bronco; making upgrades along the way. The front drum brakes were swapped out for discs, the brake booster was upgraded, and the entire system was redone with new hydraulic lines. The electrical wiring is all new too with the aid of a Painless Performance harness. The stock 302 engine was stroked to 347 cubic inches and puts out 400 horsepower. Mixing the fuel is a Holley 650 carb sitting on top of the Edelbrock aluminum intake manifold, and an MSD ignition lights the fire. Spent gasses are expelled out the back through a custom exhaust system. The cooling system was designed by Any Radiator in Lake Havasu City, AZ. These early Broncos are known for cooling issues and the system that Any Radiator has designed keeps the healthy V8 cool, even on the most challenging trails. All that power goes through an NP435 4-speed manual transmission with a Gear Banger shifter system. A Wild Horses 3.5-inch lift kit with Rancho 9000XL shocks allow the truck to handle extreme terrain whether they are slow speed crawling, or blazing across the desert. The suspension is further enhanced with a set of 35-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T tires. The Patagonia tires are equally at home in the rocks and in the desert. All the fun begins when you twist the Warn locking hubs, and shift into 4-wheel drive.

With the mechanicals wrapped up, there was still plenty to do. The bulged fiberglass hood, held down in front by hood pins, is coated in Tangelo paint, but much of the Bronco is a contrasting black. The bumpers, roll cage, fender flares, wheels, doors, and front grill are all dark as night. The same is true for the interior. The seats have a custom touch that ties them together with the body; matching orange piping. The custom roll cage and bumpers were designed with form and function in mind. The rear bumper includes a spare tire mount and a hitch receptacle. Both front and rear custom bumpers have Rigid Industries LED light bars flush mounted into them for a clean look.

The truck is a real looker and has been a great father and son project. Brandon is now able to build and maintain his own vehicles and is currently studying at SDSU towards a degree in Mechanical Engineering.

Third Time’s the Charm With This ‘72 Chevy C10

Dustin Reed’s 1972 Chevy C10 Proves Love Is Sweeter The Third Time Around

As we move through different seasons of life, our priorities, our tastes, and even the people we hold dear change. As much as we are encouraged to embrace the new and put the past behind us, a rare few can persevere through these changes and come out on the far side with relationships and identity intact, making the conscious choice to build on what we have instead of casting it aside to chase something shiny and new. 

Such build on what we have instead of casting it aside to chase something shiny and new “I got it just after I dropped out of college in 2000, and it was a piece of junk that I picked up as a project,” Dustin explains. Built on a budget, and subject to the prevailing winds of automotive culture, the first two iterations weren’t quite as timeless and understated as what you see now. 

“We did silly stuff, like super-slammed and air-bagged out, the kind of thing that was popular at the time, where you could lay frame,” he admits. “You get older, and you get smarter, and I wanted something I could actually track, and that’s what it is built for now. You know things change over the years, funding changes, and this is actually my third attempt at a build. I like it better now.”

As a successful general contractor today, Reed finally has the resources to do justice to his Chevy’s potential. The most striking thing about this truck isn’t the modern, cammed-up LS3 under the hood, or the C4 Corvette front suspension, or Corvette brakes and coilovers on all four corners – it’s the way this Chevy has been turned into a true mid-engine layout, with the firewall extensively relieved to make room for the engine’s radical relocation.

“The craziest part of the whole thing is how the engine is set back 10 inches into the cab,” Reed says. “I was trying to achieve a 50/50 weight distribution, and sure enough, when we scaled it, it was dead on. There’s no truck that’s like that.” Reed’s goal is to maximize grip and turn some heads with the way his C10 turns. His chosen venue? “Autocross at first, and I am relying on Curt [Hill, of Hill’s Rod and Custom in Pleasant Hill, CA] to help me out, but I eventually want to run at Thunderhill and places like that.”

For street duty, Reed’s Chevy rolls on 20-inch 5 spoke wheels shod in 255/45ZR20 Milestar MS932 XP+ ultra-high-performance tires. These feature an asymmetric tread design with large outside shoulder blocks to provide consistent grip under heavy cornering loads, and 3D siping on the inside shoulder blocks combined with angled radial grooves and broad circumferential channels to direct water away from the tread face in bad weather.

While Dustin’s relationship with his Chevy has run hot and cold through the years, he’s glad he stuck with it, even though there are some things he might do differently if he could start from scratch. “I would do a full custom chassis rather than modify it the way I did,” he admits. ”It’s all one fell swoop that way, rather than messing with all that stock stuff, boxing the frame rails, and grafting all the components. I’d rather just roll in a ‘done’ chassis and drop the body on it. I did it the long, expensive way.”

Regardless, he’s happy with where they are today and finds that he’s getting back as much as he put in. “The way I look at it, this is something I really do need,” he explains. “Everybody needs an outlet. It’s almost like a way to meditate. It’s counseling. It’s therapy. It’s my out.”

Crawlin’ With the Jeep Wrangler TJ

Jason Zamora’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ

When it comes to rock crawling, it’s not power that should be your focus as you build. Unless you’re racing in Ultra4, your rig should be reliable, able to articulate, have very low crawl gearing, and have very strong axles. Power means nothing if you can’t get over a boulder without breaking or crashing it. That’s why Jason Zamora’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ doesn’t have a ridiculous LS or Hemi swap – you don’t need it while crawling.

The Jeep Wrangler TJ was built by Engelhart and Moat (EM) Performance in Santa Fe Springs, CA, of which Jamie Moat talked to us about the build. “We wanted to build a fully capable Jeep with the best bolt-on part in the industry,” he said when we asked him about the build. The full build time was only four months, but the quality you see in not just the parts, but the finished product looks like a TJ that was built over several years. The mirror finish black paint job was done by One Off Rides Garage in Corona, CA and just doesn’t look like a paint job a crawler would have. That probably speaks more about the driving style of Zamora, though.

The engine is bone stock inside 4.0-liter AMC engine, an engine that is regarded as one of the best Chrysler engines ever built to power most any 4WD. Back then, it made 190-horsepower and 235-lb/ft of torque. Zamora’s probably makes about that or just better with the addition of a header and K&N intake system. The only other addition is the 100-amp alternator to drive the GGLighting 50-inch LED light bar and two-inch Pillar Pods, KC HiLites Rock Lights, Warn winch, stereo system with satellite radio, and ARB Compressor that sends air to the ARB Air Lockers.

The lift comes from a combination of a body lift with a front and rear Currie Enterprises Four-inch TJ Johnny Joint Suspension System. It features four-inch lift springs in combination with their adjustable upper and lower short arms that use Currie Johnny Joints, a rebuildable rod end joint that is stiffer than the rubber joints of the OEM control arms but not as teeth rattling as traditional rod ends. This also comes with adjustable front track bar, a rear trac bar relocation bracket, new polyurethane bump stops, and their Antirock adjustable front sway bar.

EM Performance also installed a set of Fox 2.0-inch diameter Performance Shocks. These are a set of monotube shocks that have an internal floating piston to separate nitrogen charged air from the oil. This eliminates oil aeration from pressure changes at the shock piston, which can happen from the oil boiling in the lower pressure areas of the piston’s travel. They feature better valving for off-road driving and on-road handling than the original OEM shocks.

That suspension connects to a pair of Dana 44 housings front and rear. Both also have ARB Air Lockers attached to 4.88:1 gears that spin the chromoly axle shafts. Those shafts are attached to Raceline Avenger Beadlock wheels in 17×9 with a 4.5-inch backspace (-13 offset, for you Euro and JDM wheel types). The beadlocks clamp down on a set of sticky Milestar Patagonia M/T tires in 37×12.50R17 all around. These tires have proven themselves at Ultra4 at places like the King of the Hammers and even racing at the Mint 400. Stopping this Wrangler TJ is an upgraded big brake kit while steering is handled by a Currie Currectlync Steering System with a Fox Steering Stabilizer damper on the tie-rod. The steering box is protected by a steel skid plate as, without it, it would be vulnerable to rock impacts.

With larger tires and increased suspension travel, you need to make room by modifying the body. For EM Performance and Jason, it was a call to GenRight Off-Road. For maximum front approach clearance, the stock bumper was replaced by a GenRight Stubby front bumper. Rear departure is increased by their Rock Crawler bumper and the GenRight tire carrier keeps the spare from contacting the ground in high-angle crawls. If needed, the rocker panels are protected by their Rock Sliders while the transfer case gets protection from their Belly Up Steel Skid Plate.

The fenders are no longer stock and tube versions from GenRight replace them as they open the fender areas for the bigger Patagonia M/Ts. However, to cover the inside of the front fenders, GenRight inner fender panels replace the TJ parts and helps keep air flowing through the radiator. Otherwise, the air would just flow around the radiator because that would be the easiest path. It also allowed the tube fenders to work without cutting the stock Wrangler TJ fenders.

While the passengers sit in the comfort of Mastercraft Suspension Race Bucket Seats up front and a suspension rear bench seat in the rear, they are fully protected by a GenRight Full Roll Cage. It bolts in place of the TJ cage but features far more protection by adding triangulation to the roll hoops and additional side impact strength at the A-pillar bars with a crossbar that fits over the stock TJ dashboard. They can drive without a cover or use the Spiderweb Shade made for the cage.

So, as you can see, power isn’t the factor that limits a vehicle’s crawling ability. Both the 2.5-liter and the 4.0-liter powered TJs can be made into respectable crawlers. That is if you put your money into the parts that matter like the tires, suspension, axles, and protection. Jason Zamora’s EM Performance built TJ is plenty proof of that concept. 

Is this ’69 Chevy Camaro SS Classically Original?

Curt Hill’s 1969 Chevrolet Camaro SS

It’s the dream car for many people around the world and screams absolute “Americana.” The 1969 Chevrolet Camaro SS is a car that captures the imaginations and romanticization of writers, directors, and car customizers. When you say “Camaro,” Curt Hill’s example will be the exact image people will have pop in their heads.

When it was built, the Camaro was Chevy’s answer to the Pony Car – a small, rear-wheel drive coupe with either an inline-six or V8 and a “live” rear axle. It was based on the F-body platform and it was a long-lived one. The first built in 1967 and ended in 2002 in favor of the Zeta-platform when the Camaro returned in 2010. The F-body was based off the X-body, a compact for its time platform in which the Chevy II and Nova, Buick Apollo and Skylark, Oldsmobile Omega, Pontiac Ventura and Phoenix, and the Canada only Acadian were built on. The only cars that were made with this chassis code were the Camaro and Pontiac Firebird. The first-generation specifically, which is what Curt Hill’s 1969 SS is, was carried over until November of 1969 due to delays in designing the second-generation chassis.

When the Camaro dropped in 1967, it came with three submodels (not including the base model) and packages upon packages as options for potential owners. You had the RS, which was mostly an “appearance” package that had hidden headlights and different taillights. The backup lights were under the rear bumper and you got RS badging on top of the brighter exterior trim. Then there was the Z/28, a high-performance package to work within the SCCA Trans-Am series rules, meaning it had a solid-lifter 302-cubic inch V8, four-speed manual transmission, power disc brakes, and two wide stripes down the hood and trunk lid.

Then you had what would become the package everyone in high school at the time wanted – the SS or Super Sport. It was the signature that indicated you had the best parts from the General outside of a COPO. You could get it with either a 396-ci V8 or the L48 High Output Chevy 350 V8. The chassis was upgraded to handle better and deal with the bigger power of the 350-High Output and 396. Further distinctions included the non-functional hood inlets, special striping, and that unmistakable SS badging. Before the Camaro, SS-badged cars were a mark of high performance with the Monte Carlo, Nova/Chevy II, El Camino, Chevelle, and Impala all carrying it.

The Camaro just continued to stamp in credits of its legacy, even to this day. In 1969, the final year of the first-generation with its own unique body design, the SS could be ordered as an RS/SS package. However, many laymen have trouble spotting the differences from 1967, ’68, and ’69 Camaros, but the immediate thing to look for in a 1969 is the lack of vent windows in the doors as that tells you it’s at least a 1968 model. The grill also has a deep “V” shape to it over the 67 to 68 as well as the deeper set headlights make the front end distinct to the ’69. The ’69 also looks wider and that’s because it is as the front and rear fenders are pulled out wider than the 67 to 68 and the doors also had to change to match the shape.

Curt’s is a standard SS, one of the 34,932 sold in 1969 and of the 243,085 total Camaros sold that year. His version is the 350 SS with the L48 engine, which came in all SS cars with the 350-ci V8 in 1967 to 1969 where it became available for all of Chevrolet’s car lines that could fit it. It’s a very different engine from the Generation One GM Small Block V8s. This 1969 is original, so it’s the version features a four-bolt main cap block (casting number 010) holding in the crankshaft with cast pistons moving in the 4.00-inch cylinders with 041 or 186 casting heads. Up top is a four-barrel Quadrajet carburetor with a hydraulic lifter system on a matching cam bumping the pushrods up and opening the valves. With a compression ratio of 10.25:1, the 1969 L48 can produce up to 300-horsepower and 380-lb/ft of torque.

The only modifications done to Curt’s engine is the addition of a custom painted carburetor hat (with Hill’s Rod and Custom) with an aluminum intake manifold under that and a set of custom painted valve covers. The only other modification was the addition of a set of trac bars under the leaf springs to help alleviate wheel hop. Other than that, it’s pretty much as he found it. The reason it looks as good as it does is due to it being in storage since 1988. He purchased the car and, other than the carb hat and valve covers, put on a new set of Milestar Streetsteel tires sized in P235/60R15. While these are P-metric sized tires, they are the closest to match the classic look and style of the of the 15×7 Z/28 Rally style wheels while offering modern radial tire construction.

Curt’s car is a barn find if it didn’t get found in a barn. It’s a very original, if a little hotter than OEM, Camaro SS. It certainly would look right at home on the streets of Van Nuys or Pleasant Hill, CA during its original heyday. It looks just as good now as it did when it was stored almost 30 years ago, maybe better now that it’s running around instead of sitting in the dark. We unquestionably enjoyed looking at it for this feature.

Black Gold: The 240SX S14

Jose Gutierrez’s 1997 Nissan 240SX

The later 1997 to 1998 S14 chassis 240SX captures an aggressive character that early S-chassis cars just don’t seem to exude. That’s why Jose Gutierrez had to have one and build it into his dream car.

It’s been a six-year labor of love. Through that time, this car has retained the character that Jose desired. While drifting at spots like Grange Motor Circuit doesn’t require a ton of power, Jose wanted more than what the original KA24 was putting out. So Jose went with the tried and true SR20DET engine. 

The SR20DET was the original equipment engine of the Japanese Domestic Market 180SX and Silvia. The S14 chassis like Jose’s came to these shores as a 240SX with a KA24DE engine, not the tried and true SR20DET that other regions got. The SR20DET lends itself very easily to upgrades and in stock trim with bolt-on parts like larger injectors, turbo, and MAF sensor which can make just shy of 400WHP—not too shabby. It has its limitations however, such as less than stellar torque. And in the sport of drifting, torque is king.  

Jose is swapping the SR20DET, shown above, with another proven platform, but it isn’t what you would expect. Jose isn’t going with a VQ or RB six-cylinder engine nor is he going with an LS V8—He is going with an inline 6 from Toyota: the 1JZ-GTE. The 1JZ, like the SR, is a proven platform with a lot of potential. These engines love single turbo swaps and Jose’s 1JZ will have a single Tomei M8280 turbocharger. That, of course, will require new intercooler piping and an exhaust system. Custom charge piping is being made by Richard Lopez from Rival Auto Works, to which a BLITZ blow off valve will prevent compressor surge. A BLITZ Nur Spec exhaust will complete the oval exhaust also made by Richard. Wastegate exhausting will be handled by the Future Fab turbine elbow that dumps wastegate gasses into the atmosphere.

The transmission is a nearly bulletproof Nissan RS5R30A five-speed from a Z32 300ZX. It’s not a straight swap for the 1J, as you do need an adapter with a flywheel made for the bellhousing adapter. To take the abuse of clutch kicks, an ACT Six Puck Clutch will sit in between the flywheel and pressure plate. An aluminum one-piece driveshaft will connect the RS5R’s output shaft to the differential.

The Milestar MS932 Sport is a high-performance tire that keeps a grip through long drift sessions, but they won’t do anything unless you keep them planted to the ground. That’s why Jose uses a set of Feal S14 coilovers for dampening control. SPL control arms and Voodoo13 tension rods control the direction of those suspension movements. Those curved Voodoo13 rods are required as the Rival Auto Works Knuckles would cause those beautiful 18×9.5 -37 WEDS Kranze LXZ wheels to contact OEM-style straight rods. The R33 Four-Piston front brake calipers get the S14 slowed when needed with a pair of Z32 calipers on the rear. An additional pair of Z32 calipers is modulated from the ASD hydro e-brake in the cabin.

To maintain the looks of the S14 while still making it unique to Jose, a D-MAX Type 3 body kit and hood were used with a black and gold flake clearcoat paint job. The wider front fenders come from Origin Lab while a set of Charge Speed rear fenders hug the rear tires. Custom LED corners, turn signals, and rear tail lights come from Luminous Lighting and, for kicks, a custom strobe light is installed. Can’t be serious all the time, you know?

Inside, Jose controls those Rival knuckles with a Vertex steering wheel and he runs through the gears with a GReddy GREX shift knob. A set of GReddy gauges allow him to monitor the engine while more custom LED lights keeps the interior interesting during night sessions. A custom switch panel by Rival Autoworks turns on everything he needs within reach and a Cusco cage keeps him safe if the worse should happen.

With the combination of the S14’s distinct nose design, a JDM bodykit, and the sound that only a 1JZ can make – Jose Gutierrez made sure his modified 240SX stayed aggressive. We can’t help but look at this S14 and agree with him. It’s a timeless look that he’s taken advantage of, now with an even more aggressive sounding engine.

This Nissan 240SX S13 Is a Drift Classic!

Brian Macias’ 1989 Nissan 240SX S13 Coupe

The Nissan S13 240SX is seen by many as the go-to chassis to get for a beginner drift car. With the plethora of parts available for it, it’s hard to argue against it. So, how did Brian Macias decide to build his? For fun and reliability to get him from the track and back.

“Personally, and financially,” said Brian, “the Nissan s13 with sr20 has been a preference for me over the years.” He’s been in different cars throughout his years of drifting and learning, so while those cars and engines were great, “it’s just easy to find parts for sr20s that just makes thing easy enough to just be able to take the car to the track, beat on it all day and still drive home.” It was about reliability and seat time since those are what matters the most to him.

It’s also one of the easier swaps for the S13 240SX since the SR20DET came in the original Japanese model. However, this engine is not stock, if the S13.4 valve cover didn’t give that away. The rotating assembly is the same as it was from the factory, which you can’t go wrong with since it was overbuilt by Nissan from the factory. The top end is also mostly factory but is improved with a set of Tomei 256 PonCams.

These cams are named for the 256-degrees of duration with 11.50mm (0.453-inch) of lift on the exhaust and intake camshafts. This is 16-degrees more duration (valves are opened longer) and 2mm more open on the intake and exhaust over the stock SR20DET camshaft. To allow for more abuse at higher RPMs, a set of GReddy Rock Arm Stoppers are installed. These prevent the rocker arms from opening the valves too far (causing valve float) because rocker can continue to open after the camshaft has gone past its apex, leading to damage to the engine.

The S13’s turbocharger was changed from the stock Garrett T25 with a .64 A/R to a Garrett GT2871R with a .64 A/R. This sounds like it’s not an improvement, but the newer GT2871R uses a ball bearing on the compressor shaft rather than a journal bearing on the T25 for better efficiency and reliability. Fueling this SR20 is done with a set of 550cc/min Subaru STi injectors fed by a Walbro 255-liter/hr fuel pump while the spark plugs are fired off an OE S15 SR20DET ignition coil packs. Controlling the spark and fuel is an Apex-I PowerFC and tuned by Koji over at Auto Talent.

Of course, if you’re drifting, you need angle and the right amount of grip. This very nearly completely built off the Parts Shop Max catalog with their Pro Coilovers, front and rear control arms, steering knuckles with inner tie rod ends, and rear solid subframe bushings. The front crossmember is modified by Bside Fabrication while the rest of the bushings are polyurethane.

Nissan Z32 300ZX brakes replace the S13’s brake system, including the master cylinder, and uses the Z32 internal parking brake assembly, which is part of the brake backing plate. Depending on what he needs, Brian uses several different wheels. Pictured here are a set of Enkei RPF1s in 17×9.5 front and 18×10.5 rear wrapped in Milestar Tires MS932 Sport Tires front and MS932 XP+ tires.

Inside, Brian sits in a Sparco Grid 2 seat with a set of Bride seat rails while his hands control a Sparco R 215 steering wheel and a GReddy shift knob. The passenger sits in a S14 Kouki OE Passenger seat with OE rails. The dash is covered by a Coverlay dash cover while the floor is covered by a set of Garage Moon Power floor mats. Making sure he keeps an eye on the engine is a STACK cluster that is custom fitted to the OEM dashboard gauge cluster.

Outside is classic S13 drift car looks. Clean, simple, but wider than stock. The bodykit, 55mm wider fenders, and roof spoiler all come from Fineline Tuning. D’Max is used for the hood while their corner, tail, and front bumper lights replace most of the OE parts and complete the Silvia conversion. The headlights and inside the D’Max tail lights are custom LEDs, the headlights are a pair of off-road light bars while the tails use Status LED panels. The GKTech Aero Mirrors finish off the modest exterior.

That’s all he really needs. It’s no show car, as you can see from the battle scars, but it’s a car that will get you to the track, get time behind the wheel, and drive home. “This car was put together with reliability in mind,” says Brian, “I never really cared about making huge amounts of power, always just wanted more seat time, and in the end that’s what matters the most to me.” Honestly, if you’re trying to get experience, this is what anyone should focus on. Getting seat time and you can’t do that with a car that isn’t reliable.

Wanderlust: The 1956 Chevy Nomad

Finding A New Home For A 1956 Chevy Nomad

If you’ve ever had the pleasure of driving a Tri-Five (55-57) Chevy, you know how great the view is from behind the wheel. The wide curved glass windshield and the high seating position make the outside world into a panorama, like a widescreen TV that you can drive right through. A Bel Air or 250 is almost the world’s best road trip car. Almost? Enter the Chevy Nomad.  It’s got all the style and chrome of the famous Bel Air, but that station wagon rear makes you want to throw a surfboard on the roof, a friend or five in the back, and spend an entire summer, or maybe a lifetime just traveling the country watching the world over that chrome jet on the hood.

The Nomad name has been on a variety of Chevrolet models over the years, from its inception as a Corvette-based concept in 1954 to full-size Impala wagons, midsize Chevelles, and even on vans before returning to concept car status in 2004. The most famous carriers of the Nomad name though are definitely the Tri-Fives. Say “Nomad” to any car fan and they’ll instantly picture that groundbreaking—nearly hatchback—back end with its era-defining fins and vertical chrome stripes mated to long forward-slanted front fenders and of course, that broad, curving windshield.

Eric Samuels’ High-Line Motorsports two-tone 1956 Nomad is a perfect example of what makes these cars so appealing. First there’s the peachy-gold spear cutting through the midnight-black paint, all surrounded by the sun-catching brightwork that made the high-end, two-door Nomad such a stand-out from base model four-door wagons in the ‘50s. Inside is a tailor’s shop of tweed, covering the rear bench and front bucket seats. It’s the kind of interior that instantly makes you picture yourself, window down, arm on the door frame, heading out for an adventure.

The best part though is the underpinnings beneath all that sheetmetal and trim. Rather than the stock 265ci V8, Eric’s Nomad boasts a GM crate 350 small block backed by a 700R4 automatic transmission. Like any good hot rod, it sends the power back to a Ford 9-inch rear which redirects it to spin a set of aggressively designed billet wheels wrapped in Milestar StreetSteel rubber. “I’ve driven this car to a couple of shows and swap meets,” says Eric. “It drives like a new car because of the late model running gear but with the original look.”

Eric doesn’t plan to keep the Nomad. High-Line is a classic car dealership in Brea, California and if he fell in love with every car that came through his family business over the past 40 years he’d have a bit of a problem finding storage (and paying his bills), but he’s been especially fond of the Nomad and doesn’t think it will be hard to find it a loving home. “Tri-five Chevys are very popular,” he tells us. “People like everything from the Bel Air to the pickups, but especially the Nomad.”

Super Clean Demello-Built Overlander

Scott Motherstead’s 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser, Built by Demello Offroad

The term “Family Adventure” can mean many things. For some, just getting out of the house to go see Grandma can be an adventure. But for others (those of us that have dirt infused in our blood), it means so much more. Scott Motherstead of Costa Mesa, California decided to build up his 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser (FJC) to make sure his kids had something to brag about when they went back to school after an epic weekend.

The goal was simple: build a reliable rig ready for the trails and family fun. Scott teamed up with Demello Offroad in Riverside, California, knowing full well that he and his Toyota would be well taken care of. The team decided to upgrade the 4×4 with ICON Vehicle Dynamic’s Stage 8 Suspension system, featuring ICON’s ultra-reliable coilovers, shocks, control arms, and all other necessary components.

To make sure the extra travel and performance of the upgraded suspension isn’t left in the cold, the Toyota independent front differential and solid rear axle were regeared to 4.88:1 ratio, keeping the factory locker out back.

Travel and gearing are nothing without getting traction on the ground. The tire put to the task is a full set of 35-inch Milestar Patagonia M/Ts wrapped around Toyota TRD wheels with custom OMF Performance beadlocks. Hopes, dreams, and expectations of traction were blown out of the water by how well the Patagonias perform.

Next, the focus was placed on the exterior of the body. Demello Offroad specializes in quality components for Toyotas. They decked the rig out with front and rear bumpers, side bars, and a roof rack LED light bar mount. They then added a Smittybilt 9.5k XRC winch and a host of Baja Designs LED lights.

Everything combined, at the end of an amazing trail day, Scott is able to sit by the campfire with his family, fondly looking at his ‘Cruiser and know that he has made some great choices.

From Zero to Ford Mustang Mach 1 in 17 Years

Dennis McGrath’s Beach-Cruising 1969 Mach 1 Ford Mustang

If you see Dennis McGrath’s Grabber Blue 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 drive by, you’re going to turn your head until it disappears down the road. It’s such an eye-catching a car, you don’t want to lose sight of it. When asked about his small-block powered 1969 ‘Stang, McGrath told us he’s just always liked Mustangs, and who can blame him? Since its introduction, the Ford ponycar has been a winner, both on track and on dealer lots. In 1969, the Mustang got a tough new facelift too, with quad headlights, high-hipped quarterpanel scoops, and a variety of ferocious engine and graphics packages.

For Dennis and Jenny McGrath, there’s no need for stripes or big blocks. Give them a high-revving 351 Cleveland, a shift kit in the C6 transmission, and an empty lane to blast down California’s Pacific Coast Highway, and they’ll give the Pacific Ocean a run for its money as “Most eye-catching view on the California coast.”

Getting the Mustang into beach-cruising shape was a 17-year-long process. Along with hotting-up the 9.5:1 compression 351 V8 with a mild cam and valve job and then topping it with an Edelbrock manifold and 650 carburetor, they upgraded to March pulleys and power steering, and an MSD distributor, box and coil. That improved spark lights off the fuel and the spent gasses take a trip out through Hedman Hedders. The Cleveland keeps its cool thanks to a Mattson aluminum radiator.

Backing the small block is a C6 automatic, beefed up with a hardened shaft, racing servo, shift kit, and 2400-stall B&M torque converter. In the back is a Ford 9-inch limited slip with 3.50 gears. The McGraths wanted the Mustang to handle, so a CPP front sway bar and KYB shocks take on the turns and bounces. To keep the car stable and straight, a Total Control brace counteracts body flex. Additional stiffening comes from Total Control subframe connectors, and in the rear, Scott Drake leaf springs help keep the power squatted down on widened 15-inch Rally 500 wheels wrapped in 255/60-15 Milestar Streetsteel rubber, picked for just the right mix of street performance and that classic muscle car look. In the front, 235/60-15 Milestars point the pony in the right direction. Disc brakes on all four corners bring the Mustang to a quick stop.

Inside the Mustang Mach 1, Dakota digital gauges keep tabs on the temps and TMI leather bucket seats let the McGraths lean back and enjoy tunes through the Sony receiver, JL Audio amps, and 10-inch subwoofer and Focal speakers. So if McGrath’s car catches your eye on the road or at a show, nobody will blame you for keeping an eye on it, it’s just that perfect pony stance, sound, and style.

S2KRAZY:
DAAAMNGIINA’S Honda S2000

A great sports car isn’t defined by maximum power. It’s defined by keeping a balance. Tiffany Miller, aka @daaamngiina, and her 2006 Honda S2000 sets the standard of good balance with performance.

If a car puts out too much power, the balance is lost, and control is nothing but a joke. This was the goal Honda set when it first created the S2000 in the AP1 configuration. Unfortunately, the mark was just slightly missed and in 2004, the AP2 configuration was released. With changes to the chassis and the engine, the S2000 became the hallmark of modern sports car performance.

With that in mind, Tiffany Miller and Sportcar Motion knew that it wouldn’t take much to further improve upon the design. The F22C1 in this AP2 is all stock internally but it does feature items to make it breath in and exhaust out better. First was the change to the Password JDM intake, an intake that creates better flow by minimizing restrictions and reducing turbulence before the throttle body.

Once the air and fuel mixture combust, the used-up gasses flow out of the heads and manifold to the J’s Racing Exhaust with the addition of an Invidia Test Pipe. With a Hondata Flash Pro tune on the stock ECU by Dardan, this F22C1 puts out 212 horsepower and 153 torque to the wheels. Now, you probably think that’s rather low as the F22C1 is advertised with 237 horsepower and 162 torque. That’s at the crank and, with losses calculated, Tiffany’s car is making around 244 horsepower and 176 torque at the crank.

Remember what we stated at the beginning: a great sports car isn’t defined by power but by its balance. The chassis balance is enhanced by a Tein Mono Sport Damper, a mono-tube construction rather than the traditional twin-tube damper solutions found in most kits. Doing so allows the oil inside the dampers to remain cooler. This is because the shock oil makes direct contact with the outer body of the damper, which wicks away heat much better than a twin-tube.

These dampers also go further by allowing for ride height and corner balance adjusting as well as tuning the damping forces. This is done by a needle valve in the piston rod the allows a certain amount of oil to bypass the piston valving until it reaches the force required to open the piston’s valve stack. In addition, a set of Milestar Tires MS932 Sports in 245/45R17s on 17×10 949 Racing 6UL wheels provide the grip required to stay on track during time attack and sporty driving sessions. This grip is also required when coming to a stop as the Stop Tech brake pads and rotors provide more braking force than the OE Honda pads once did.

Buddy Club Roll Center Adjusters ensure that the control arms stay in their correct movements after lowering the car beyond stock. Hardrace Spherical Tie Rod Ends prevent bumpsteer on this lowered S2000 by keeping the tie rods in line with the control arms. Without them, the tie rods would be at an upward angle and push the front tires to a toe-in condition on bump and toe-out on rebound.

The body is also just modified to fit the wider wheels and Milestar Tires under the body with a set of Voltex Fender Flares. A custom Sportcar Motion front splitter is made to fit the ASM I.S. Design Aero front bumper. This bumper and splitter combination is designed to allow enough air to flow around the body but also keep it flowing to the Koyo Racing Radiator to keep the engine cool. The Voltex Wing, J’s Racing Rear Diffuser, Password JDM Canards, and Downforce Side Skirt Diffuser all improve the flow of the air around the body, but the Seibon Carbon Hood and Hardtop help reduce its weight.

We look forward to seeing more JDM builds from Tiffany Miller.

Battering Ram: Dodge RAM 2500 HD

Andrew Hoit’s Dodge Ram 2500 HD

Andrew Hoit from Chino, California shows us what a great offroad vehicle you can build if you keep it simple and do key improvements to an already capable platform. His 2016 Dodge Ram 2500 HD is actually a replacement for a similar Dodge Ram he had that was totaled when a careless driver drifted into his lane. He was impressed with how well the Dodge protected himself and his fiancé in the crash so there was no doubt what he would purchase the second time around. His reasons for choosing the Dodge for his offroad build include comfort, safety, versatility, and the Cummins 6.7 liter diesel engine!

The 6.7 liter Cummins diesel is legendary for reliability and supplies 385 horsepower and a staggering 900 foot pounds of torque. In order to take full advantage of that torque, Andrew swapped the gears in both axles to Nitro 4.32:1 ratio ring and pinion sets. All that torque is applied by a set of AEV Salta rims sized 17X8 that are wrapped with 37X12.5R17 Milestar Patagonia M/Ts. When Andrew gets out in his truck, he heads for the mountains. Like many of us, he has to travel a lot of freeway miles to get to his destination. His Milestar Patagonias are comfortable on the pavement but still aggressive enough to excel in the mud, rocks, and snow that he finds at his favorite camping spots. The 37-inch size gives him plenty of ground clearance at the differentials and provides a nice contact patch for maximum traction. A Bilstein B8 5160 Leveling Kit with Eibach Springs up front and the matching Bilstein B8 5160 application out back make room for those tires. You can begin to see a pattern here, Andrew has selected highly only the most reliable and effective components to fortify his Dodge.

Speaking of fortifications, you can’t miss the ARB Full Deluxe Modular Winch Bar Kit out front. A pair of ARB Intensity LED lights are mounted to the front to illuminate anything ahead, even in the rare case that cable needs to be pulled from the Warn Winch mounted to the ARB bumper. Further fortifications include a Cage 4X4 heavy duty skid plate. The added electronic components are integrated into the Dodge Ram by an sPod HD Touchscreen Control. He also has a Rugged Radio tied into the sPOD to communicate with the outside world.

When Andrew wants to get away from the outside world, he has an ARB Rooftop tent and canopy for protection from the elements. Andrew built the custom bed rack that holds the ARB tent himself. Raising the tent up allows the bed to hold a decked cargo system that provides tons of lockable storage space, his ARB fridge, and whatever gear, firewood, or supplies that he desires. Andrew’s capable Dodge is a well thought out, and perfectly executed 4X4 that can go anywhere with ease. Whether he’s stuck in traffic on a Southern California freeway, or relaxing in the fresh air of a pine forest, Andrew has everything he needs to be safe and comfortable no matter where he is.          

This Jeep Wrangler LJ Is Loaded to the Gills

Reid Nordin’s 2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited LJ

Reid Nordin’s 2006 modified Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited LJ is loaded with custom features to enhance its offroad capabilities, and to provide comfort for its occupants. The Jeep’s 4.0 liter inline 6 engine has been left mostly stock for reliability, but a relocated air box and custom cold air intake has been incorporated. The automatic transmission and transfer case also remain as delivered from the factory except for the addition of an external transmission cooler. Once the power makes its way down to the axles, the fun begins. Currie Rock Jock 60s with ARB Air Lockers reside at both ends. The front Rock Jock is engaged by Warn locking hubs. Getting the front axle to articulate is done with a Savvy Mid Arm suspension and Currie springs. The swaybar is a Currie Antirock with Walker End Links. Out back, the set-up is similar with the Savvy Mid Arm kit, Currie springs, and Currie Antirock swaybar. Walker Evans remote reservoir shocks with compression adjusters take care of the suspension damping. 17X8.5 Walker Evans Beadlocks are wrapped with 35X12.50-17 Milestar Patagonia M/T tires. PSC steering with Ram Assist keeps him pointed in the right direction.

Reid’s favorite spots to go 4 wheeling in his Wrangler LJ are Moab, Sand Hollow, and Ocotillo Wells. Playing in such diverse terrain, Reid needed a tire that would excel in all three and also be comfortable on the road. The Patagonia M/T was designed to be at home while rock crawling, exploring the desert, mud bogging, playing in the dunes, or a casual drive through mountain trails. The staggered, high void tread sheds mud, and special stone ejectors in the 3 ply sidewall help to eject rocks. The aggressive tread design is surprisingly quiet on pavement and has generous siping to shed water in wet conditions. 

With the traction to get into some challenging situations, some care was taken to protect the AEV Hi-Line hood, Poison Spyder Hi-Line aluminum front fenders, rear flairs, and flat candy green wrap by Platinum Paint Protection. Speaking of protection, Reid’s Jeep Wrangler LJ has full aluminum Belly up skid plates. The GenRight +5 gallon fuel tank is also protected by a GenRight steel skid plate. To protect the occupants, a GenRight weld in cage has been installed. The driver and passenger sit in Mastercraft Safety, Baja RS Seats and standard belts. The rear seat has been removed and a custom aluminum Storage box with above fender rack sits in its place; a favorite perch for Reid’s German Shepherd.

Lighting on the Wrangler LJ consists of Truck-Lite headlights, Laser Star driving lights, Gen-Right LED rear tail lights, and Gen-Right back up lights. The Optima Yellow Top battery powers a Magellan TRX7 GPS and Rugged Radio’s 2-way radio when the SSV WORKS full stereo system isn’t cranking out tunes. The Optima also supplies power for the Warn 9000 Winch with synthetic line and Factor 55 Fairlead with Flatlink. The Warn winch is mounted to a Currie front bumper. The Currie rear bumper has a Currie Swing out tire carrier to mount the spare, and Currie Rock Rails complete the impressive package. Reid Nordin’s Jeep is a perfect example of a well thought out rig that performs beautifully, on and off the road. Every modification was chosen to complement each other to provide a functional rig that works as well as it looks.     

Mysterious Stranger: 1956 Chevrolet 3100

For every marquee Ring Brothers or Foose build you’ve ever seen cross the auction block at Mecum or Barrett-Jackson, there are hundreds, perhaps even thousands of hot rods and customs built in small shops you’ve never heard of that trade hands every day. Some are rough, some are so-so, and some are as perfect and polished as the best iron you’ll see on the show floor at SEMA.

Eric Samuels of High-Line Motorsports in Brea, California, is in the business of sorting the sheep from the goats – working with his father who founded High-Line more than 40 years ago, it’s his job to identify quality classic cars, customs, and hot rods with just a limited inspection and often no information on a vehicle’s history.

Such is the case with this 1956 Chevrolet 3100 pickup; per Samuels, “We took it in trade. We got it from somebody who bought it already done, so we weren’t able to find out who built it originally.” Even so, the quality of the work shines through, from the paint to the interior to the driveline. Under the hood of the 3100 sits a small block Chevy V8 of unknown specification, which by itself is a rarity for a modern hot rod.

“Everything done nowadays has an LS engine in it, and for this to even have dual carbs was a little strange,” Samuels admits. Those twin Demons hint at more than 350 cubes, but without disassembly, it’s impossible to know the engine’s exact specifications. “Unless we open things up to find out, it’s hard to know for sure, and between time and money it’s something we usually don’t do.”

Regardless of exact spec, that SBC backed by a 700R4 overdrive transmission and a reasonable final drive ratio (Samuels guesses the 10-bolt is running 3.11 gears) makes it a comfortable cruiser. The air suspension with an onboard compressor and in-cab controls let the driver go from stanced to road-ready at the touch of a button, and every amenity is in place for a daily driver.

Part of that nuanced ride comes thanks to the Milestar MS932 Sport tires wrapping the Billet Specialties wheels. The right rubber makes a huge difference in performance and comfort, especially in low profile applications like this pickup. It’s easy to end up with a buckboard ride quality with the wrong short-sidewall performance tires, but these 225/55R17 front and 255/55R18 rear tires are engineered to give an outstanding balance of traction, treadwear, and road manners to match the refinement of the rest of the package.

“It has all the late model comforts – you have leather, a tilt column, power windows, power disc brakes and power steering, Vintage Air – it’s basically a late model car with an old-school body,” Samuels explains. “Being around stuff a while, you know ‘this is done right, this is rough, this will sell, this won’t.’ Don’t get me wrong. There have been times when we’ve bought a car at auction that was a lot worse than we thought, but you take the good with the bad, and hopefully it’s more good.”

Though this Chevy 3100’s origins will forever be shrouded in mystery, it’s definitely one of the good ones. The bottom line for Samuels? “This one was so nice that it pretty much sold itself.”

Four Doors Are Better Than Two: Jeep JKU Wrangler

Bert Heck’s Jeep JKU Wrangler

The automotive world has a way of taking a serious hold on us. All it takes is being part of one facet of the culture to pull you into the rest, a gateway drug of sorts. That is exactly what happened with Bert Heck, and why he now utilizes a 2015 Jeep JKU Wrangler Unlimited.

Bert’s gateway was drag racing. For years it was his automotive sport of choice. Though he still enjoys the thrill of a dragster tearing down the track, Bert wanted something for when he wasn’t racing. A friend and co-worker talked him into purchasing a 1998 TJ Wrangler. It was built, lots of fun was had but Bert saw that the longer wheelbase rigs had the fun he’d prefer. Street-able and can wheel anywhere.

Over the span of a few months, Bert transformed his Jeep JKU Wrangler into the beast you see here. With a large amount of friends in the automotive aftermarket industry, Bert knew who to ask to point him down the right path for which parts to use. Their guidance helped the Jeep build go the way it did.

The Jeep is elevated by a front and rear EVO MFG Double D Pro Long Arm Suspension System sporting 2.5 King Coilovers, giving the Jeep a low center of gravity, 12-inches of clean and usable travel as well as having some of the strongest components on the market. Hanging off the ends of the long arms are a front Currie Enterprises RockJock 44 front differential and RockJock 60 rear.

To get ultimate traction no matter where the vehicle went, Bert bolted on a set of Method 101 Beadlock wheels wrapped in Milestar Patagonia M/T 37×12.50R17 at each corner. The Patagonia M/Ts are design for maximum traction, no matter where the vehicle goes, perfect for Bert’s wide range of uses for the vehicle.

To give the Jeep the body protection it deserves, a full range of Poison Spyder bumpers, rocker sliders and corner guards were installed, along with a Warn Zeon 12,000lb winch and a full RockHard 4×4 skid plate system. To keep the spare Patagonia M/T firmly planted to the vehicle, an EVO MFG Pro Series Hinged Gate Carrier was installed on the back end.

The 3.6L V6 powerplant and automatic transmission were left stock for reliability, with the exception of a K&N Engineering air intake and oil filter to give it a few extra ponies.

Keep your eyes peeled for this rig. Bert tends to take his Jeep JKU Wrangler anywhere he can. The pair are no stranger to trails in the West.

Cars and Coffee: South Bay Sunday by Milestar Tires

The Cars and Coffee scene has grown since its introduction just a few years ago, but there was one area that was lacking such an event. That’s when the team down at Milestar Tires decided it was time that the South Bay got their event with South Bay Sunday.

It was probably a phenomenon that not many predicted would get as popular as it has today. A gathering of car enthusiasts of all kinds that get up, sometimes even before the sun rises, to gather at a local spot for a good cup of coffee and look at each other’s cars. It wasn’t a single make or even just JDM, American, or European makes. Cars and Coffee were for everyone when it started in Irvine, CA back in 2006. It’s now grown into something that not only each state has, but seemingly every country where there is a driving public has a Cars and Coffee event of their own.

While these events had taken off in the Irvine and Orange County area of California, Los Angeles was sorely lacking many events. There certainly wasn’t a regular event happening in LA. One would pop up, but there was never a permanent fixture for the city best known for its custom car culture. That’s when Martin and Rob of Milestar Tires came to the rescue. Utilizing the Tireco building where Milestar is headquartered, the former headquarters of Nissan North America, and right in the heart of California’s custom car and hot rod culture. Right in the heart of the South Bay in Torrance, CA.

Just like other Cars and Coffee events, the ones at Milestar’s parking lot are open to all and you’ll see everything from classic hot rods, high-tech exotics, and lifted trucks. No one is unwelcome, provided you act as a good neighbor and don’t rev your engines, peel out of the parking lot, or speed around the city streets. Follow those rules and this event will be around for a long, long time.

When will the next Cars and Coffee South Bay Sunday take place? It’s every third Sunday of the month, so your next one will probably be coming very soon. We hope to see you there!

1970 AMC Javelin: The “Other” Pony Car

In the late 1960’s, the “Pony Car” wars were heating up – the Ford Mustang, debuting in the 1965 model year, defined this class of small, sporty coupes, and inspired General Motors to fire back with the Camaro and Firebird in 1967. Chrysler had their own entry into the fray with the Barracuda, which actually beat the Mustang to dealerships by two weeks in April of 1964. The “Big Three” US automakers were fully committed to these image-leading (and profitable) cars, and battled it out both on the showroom floor and at racetracks across the country.

Meanwhile, America’s “other” domestic manufacturer, AMC, introduced their own pony car for the 1968 model year. The Javelin, designed on a budget, became a dark horse competitor against their much better-funded rivals at the dragstrip and in Trans-Am road racing, and earned a level of respect that exceeded all expectations. With important tweaks for the 1970 model year, Penske Racing took to the track with legendary Roger Penske and Mark Donohue at the wheel in the SCCA Trans-Am Series in AMC Javelins painted with unmistakable red, white, and blue livery, and racked up an impressive record of success.

While AMC might be long gone – acquired thirty years ago by Chrysler – the “other guy” heritage still inspires collectors and enthusiasts to restore, drive, and enjoy their cars built in the heyday of American performance. The 1970 Javelin you see here, decked out in the iconic Penske Racing tri-color paint job, is a perfect example. But it’s not an easy road, compared to being a fan of Chevy, Ford, or even Mopar classics.

“That car has a 400 horsepower 390 in it, and we had a hell of a time trying to source parts to build it,” explains Darin Smith of DWS Classics in Huntington Beach, California. “It took us a couple of months just to find parts. The owner didn’t have an unlimited budget, so we had to send away for parts instead of going to an AMC specialist and just buying a prebuilt motor.”

1970 was a watershed year for the Javelin; the first-gen AMC pony car received updated styling, but more importantly, an improved front suspension layout, lighter safety glass, and new power options. Our feature car captures the essence of the optional “Go Package” with front wheel disc brakes, Magnum 500 wheels, and upgraded tires.

No aspect of automotive performance has come farther since this Javelin left the assembly line than tire technology, but the “pro touring” route, with big wheels and low-profile rubber, isn’t for everyone. To respect the AMC’s heritage while still reaping the benefits of five decades of tire technology progress, this car wears Milestar Streetsteel all-season high performance radials. The look is spot-on with solid raised white lettering and a checkered flag sidewall design, but the original factory rubber couldn’t hold a candle to the Streetsteel’s dry grip, wet performance, steering stability, or all-season traction.

Turns out that getting the tires right was the easy part. Per Smith, “It was tough to source parts for, but it’s a real cool car now that it’s done, and it gets a lot of attention, especially with that paint job. People swarm on that thing.” Despite the challenges of doing it right, Smith says he’s ready to take on the next project involving America’s “other” car company. “I’d gladly do another AMC, especially an AMX, or an SC/Rambler – I’d love to do one of them.”

The end result is a car that’s fun to drive, responsive, and powerful, that won’t be lost in a crowd at the local cruise night or weekend show-and-shine. Smith sums it up: “You can’t be shy, because you are going to get a lot of attention anywhere you go.”

From Show to Go:
1967 Chevrolet Chevelle

The yearly pilgrimage to the Las Vegas Convention Center for the SEMA Show draws hundreds of vehicles built specifically for that event, showcasing the latest, newest, and best the automotive aftermarket has to offer. Whether they’re million-dollar concepts from an OEM or a one-off custom put together by a shop with one lift and an open trailer, they’ll get a few short days in the spotlight before fading into history. Many won’t even set a tire tread on asphalt beyond the trip between their transporter and the convention center floor. This 1967 Chevrolet Chevelle isn’t one of them.

The 1967 Chevelle you see here was crafted for the 2013 SEMA Show to highlight TMI Products’ XR interiors for classic cars, but after it had its 15 minutes of fame on the convention center floor, it didn’t suffer the same fate as so many SEMA cars do, relegated to the back corner of a shop or sold to a collector with more time spent with a microfiber cloth in hand than the steering wheel and shifter.

Instead, owner Jimmy Dingwell did the unthinkable – he actually drove it, and drove it a lot. So much so that when we recently caught up with it a few years after its SEMA debut, it was in the hands of Darin Smith at DWS Classics in Huntington Beach, California for a little refreshing.

“Right after SEMA, they got out and drove this puppy. It was in a couple of magazines, and then right afterward they started driving it,” Smith explains. “It came to us needing some maintenance. Even SEMA cars wear out and end up needing some love too, I suppose. When it came in it was making some noise – the exhaust was banging up inside the quarter panel of the car and it had some suspension bushings that were worn out, so we went in and re-bushed it to get rid of some of the thumps and knocks in the car.”

Along with the general TLC, the Chevelle was also in need of new rubber, and Milestar MS932XP ultra-high performance tires were the go-to choice. “It’s got a performance suspension and brakes, and it handles pretty darn well,” says Smith. The W-speed rated MS392 XP, designed specifically for 18, 19, and 20-inch wheels and low-profile applications has the exceptional grip, stability, and comfort to match this Chevy’s top-tier handling capabilities without sacrificing wet traction – an important feature for a car that gets driven in the real world.

“It’s quick, it handles, and it’s a lot of fun to drive,” Smith continues. “It has a manual transmission – a Hurst-prepared 5 speed – and manuals are always more fun.” The Rapp Racing 355ci Chevy small block delivers an estimated 550 horsepower and serves as the only source of audio for this Chevelle. Per Smith, “It handles and stops nice, and it has AC. It just doesn’t have a stereo. It’s nice to hear all that music from the engine…”

With the wear and tear addressed, this former SEMA star is back on the road and ready to be enjoyed once more, the way classic cars should be. “It’s a real nice, clean, well-built car,” Smith concludes. “What more can I say? Everyone who sees you driving it gives you a thumbs up. You can’t be shy in that thing.”