Making a Statement in Steel and Patina:
Hodson Motors Ford F600 Dually

Say what you will about the patina craze we see at SEMA but the distinct weathered ‘n’ worn look just works on certain builds. The trend has come full circle as we’ve seen multiple examples of perfectly fine truck bodies get primered and scuffed up on purpose.

But the father and son duo at Hodson Motors in Las Vegas, NV handcrafts miracles out of the forgotten American iron from decades past. And just when you thought you have seen every iteration of Ford F-series pickup, this 1956 Ford F600 Crew Cab creation rolls in.

“We’ve had this truck for almost seven years,” son Riley Hodson jokes. “It’s always been the ugly duckling in the collection, always been a nightmare to drive. Now it’s excellent and fits in with our other trucks.”

…“the father and son duo at Hodson Motors in Las Vegas, NV handcrafts miracles out of the forgotten American iron from decades past,”...

EVs at SEMA 2022

The Electric Age is Upon Us

EVs were one of the major topics at the 2022 SEMA Show. With a dedicated space called “SEMA Electrified”, several EV manufacturers displayed their stock to modified creations. The all-new Ford Lighting was featured with an overland theme. And you can’t miss the abundance of Teslas sitting on air ride suspension.

SEMA 2022: Impressions

SEMA is Finally Back to Its Full Potential

You never know how much something will be missed until it’s gone, and the SEMA comeback continues with pent-up demand for the world’s wildest custom cars, trucks, and everything in between. After pandemic hiccups, 135,000 attendees this year pointed out that the show content and overall vibe felt as bullish as any before. Mix in a few hot platforms like the Nissan Z, the revised Toyota GR86, and exploding trends in the safari car, big truck, and offroad world, and all the ingredients for a killer SEMA Show were present.

The fiery Nissan Z is in high demand, and there were dozens of examples in all stages of modification. A few Z-cars already had widebody kits and high horsepower while many owners are still waiting for deliveries or suffering dealer markups nearly double the sticker price.

We can’t forget legendary platforms like the Mazda RX-7 FD, Subaru STi, Toyota Supra or the Nissan GT-R. Whether a current-gen or throwback creations like the all-carbon R32 GT-R that Garage Active shipped from Japan. This carbon fiber creation is over 1000hp from the HKS-equipped RB30 feeding a sequential gearbox. Their latest carbon fiber masterpiece misted with Midnight Purple paint was just stunning and only rivaled by Pagani V12-powered FD RX-7 that had us conflicted.

SEMA wouldn’t be SEMA without a battalion of lifted trucks, SUVs, and Jeeps in the outdoor lots. Whether built to be a mallcrawler or a legitimate overland contender, most were too pretty to run into a puddle. Every possible approach to truck modification was on parade, right on down to a tub -chassis old school Toyota 4Runner with a big-single 2JZ, a ‘Yoda widebody pickup with exposed suspension geometry, along with Domestic V8 rigs running monster tires and tank tracks.

The 2022 edition of SEMA hosted many driving demos in the lots surrounding the Las Vegas Convention Center and hosted a new Influencer Award that was bagged by photographer, Larry Chen. While the SEMA numbers appear healthy, we expect the current trends to be further boosted by dwindling gas prices and a stable economy.

SBN All-Female Bronco Build Graces SEMA 2022

The Ladies at SBN Show off their Hard Work

The 2021 Wildtrak Bronco is beefed up with Ford’s Performance EcoBoost power pack performance calibration, TurboSmart Kompact EM Plumb Back Valve VR19, aFe Power Momentum GT Cold Air Intake with a Pro 5R Filter, and AWE Tuning 2.7L Cat Back Exhaust suite.

For the chassis, it’s fully equipped with ICON Vehicle Dynamic’s 3-4” Lift Stage 8 Billet suspension system, Bronco Duster stage 3 Billet Aluminum Housing and Bushing kit, and Steersmarts Yeti XM Bronco Rear Adjustable Track Bar.

It features a custom designed and installed wrap done by Terra Strada Design. Equipped with Advanced Fiberglass’ 2” flare, 1” rise fenders, quarters and ram air hood, Baja Forged’s full-size Crawler front and rear bumpers with full size skid plate, Warn VR EVO 10-S winch, Factor 55 Ultra hook and Cascadia 4×4 Hood Solar Panel, Air Compressor, TRED Pro Recovery Boards and Jack by ARB; 37” Spare tire mount, Ford Accessories LockNLoad roof rack, Yakima Skyline tent, Ford Research and Advanced Engineering Lit Bronco Grille, Oracle Lighting, Brackets & Switches, and MEK Magnetic products.

As for the interior, it is furnished with Katzkin Seat custom leather seat covers, Goose Gear rear seat delete and icebox module with storage drawer, Ford Performance 50 QT Classic Fridge by ARB, all-weather floor mats, Molly bags, and In Vehicle Console Vault by Ford Accessories.

It rolls on ICON Alloy’s 17″ Satin Black Thrust wheels wrapped in the all-new 37” Milestar Patagonia M/T-02 tires. Tying everything together are McGuard’s Black Lug Nuts with a custom engraved SBN logo.

Products and companies that supported the build include Ford Motor Company, PPG paint (Paint Supplies), Seymour Paint (Undercoating Products), Summit Racing (Miscellaneous Supplies), Adenna PPE Supplies, TRAC Tire assistant products, UTI Long Beach, CA (Paint Facilities), MRT Performance (Facilities, Fabrication & Paint Supplies), 5 0’ Clock Garage (Build Support & Miscellaneous Supplies), SEMA Garage (CA & MI Facilities), and Duralast Battery donated by AutoZone.

Top Exotics at SEMA 2022

Sexy Wide Body Kits and Big Turbos

When it comes to The SEMA Show, exotic supercars are on another level. From body kits to twin turbos, these supercar builders push the envelope to stand out in a saturated crowd of stunning builds. There’s a bit, or should we say a lot, of everything for you to like here. Take a look at some of the supercars that grabbed our attention while walking the floors of the 2022 SEMA show.

Milestar XPDN4 Cascadia: An Overland Trek Through Oregon’s Many Exciting Landscapes

Hodson’s Dodge DW300 Is an Art Masterpiece!

Over the last several years, the father and son team of Derrick and Riley Hodson of Las Vegas’ Hodson Motors have become synonymous with creating functional works of art from formerly ignored and often abused classic workhorse truck foundations. Combining body parts from light, medium, and heavy-duty trucks and blending them in such a way that is easily overlooked as stock by the casual observer, the team have developed a formula that has proven hard to beat. Their latest is a 1968 Dodge W300 Crew Cab that has taken their build style and pushed it to a whole new level.

Instead of starting from scratch on this project, the Hodson’s started with a partially finished project that the former owner had already invested a considerable amount of time and effort into, creating a solid drivetrain as the foundation to build off of. Starting with a rare 1968 Dodge W200 ¾ ton Crew Cab truck, the former owner installed an early Superduty Dana 60/ Sterling 10.5 axle combo slung on the same era Superduty leaf spring suspension, utilizing custom mounts front and rear. Under the hood he installed a tried and true 5.9L 12 valve Cummins mated to an NV4500 and a divorced NP205 transfer case. It was at this point that Riley purchased the project.

Evil 1956 Jeep Willys:
The Ultimate Off-Road Adventurer

There comes a time in one’s life when “fitting in” takes a back seat to being unique and truly different than the rest of the pack. Pat Soffe (@offpvmt) of St. George, Utah found himself in this exact category while figuring out what vehicle to build. His major prerequisite was one that could keep up with his off-roading, rock crawling habits—but that all changed before he even began.

…Just make sure to measure the height of the door before you get started though…

As the sun started to set on Pat’s time with his 2001 Jeep XJ, he began weighing the pros and cons of building a newer Jeep—a JL. Unfortunately, the cons quickly posed a very real sign to go into a different direction. “The first deterrent of building a new JL was the price of a new JL”, Pat admits. “Purchasing a brand new stock condition vehicle that would need so much additional money invested to match the capabilities of our old Jeep was just too cost prohibitive.”

With the towering monetary barrier causing Pat to find another way forward, he began scouring the used JL market, but was soon hit by another block in the path. “We took our old XJ to three JP Magazine Dirt & Drive events among other meets throughout the years, and something that kept telling us to stray away from going with a Jeep JL was that literally EVERYBODY else had a JL. I wanted something that would get noticed and stand out.”

While Pat still didn’t know exactly what kind of rig to build next, he did start watching past Four Wheeler magazine’s Ultimate Adventure videos in hopes to find nudge in a certain direction. “I was going through hours of coverage to get some bit of inspiration, and then there it was”, Pat says excitedly. The vehicle he spotted was a 1949 Willys truck, and it belonged to JP Magazine’s own Verne Simons. “I was instantly hooked. I soon found myself literally taking screen shots of as many photos as possible of Verne’s truck. As luck would have it, I had a chance meeting with Verne at the Lucas Oils Off Road Expo in Pomona, California. It was that exact moment that solidified my decision to build a 1956 Jeep Willys truck.”

With the big picture crystal clear in his mind, Pat soon embarked on his own Willy’s build—starting with a 1997 Jeep TJ frame. “We literally started with a blank slate”, he says. “The humble beginning allowed for the build process to move ahead rather simply.” First, that TJ chassis was stretched at the top of the rear axle rise and extended 42 inches to provide a proper place to mount the bed, as well as obtain a 118-inch wheelbase. The front Dodge Dana 60 Kingpin and the rear GM 14-bolt axles were then built up before the custom front 3-link Skyjacker suspension setup, as well as a rear 4-link system that both feature TJ 2.5-inch dual rate springs and ADX reservoir shocks were assembled.

To handle the terrain shredding, rock climbing duties Pat was after, he selected a set of TR Beadlock HD17 wheels and 40×17-inch Milestar Patagonia tires that are well known for their established prowess out in the wild. So far, Pat’s Willys project was showing some real promise while on the ground floor. Next, he would begin the process of finding an adequate power source to fuel the level of adventure he had in mind for his soon-to-be assembled pickup.

Pat could’ve run with many different engine options but he ultimately chose a 2002 GM 5.3L LS power plant, as well as a Monster TH400 transmission to propel his truck through the elements. The LS provided modern reliability, as well as more than enough horsepower and torque to get him out into the great wide open and back home again. To keep the engine cool even during the hottest day in the desert, a Champion 3-row aluminum radiator with a Spal fan was selected, which is actually a Jeep CJ V-8 conversion that fit the bill perfectly.

…The first deterrent of building a new JL was the price of a new JL…

Now as far as the ’56 Jeep Willys truck cab, front end and bed, Pat didn’t do a whole lot to prep it for installation onto the frame. The natural 66-year-old patina, which is impossible to duplicate otherwise, was left in place as a nod to the experience this truck has seen in action. Pat did include many new conveniences to the Willy façade in the way of a front and rear bumpers, a Warn winch and a whole arsenal of Rigid LED lighting, which is required equipment for the environment Pat tends to frequent.

Next, the interior space within the cab was completely Raptor lined before it was outfitted with a set of Corbeau Baja XP seats, light gauge sheetmetal door panels and aircraft style toggle switches. The Willys’ cabin is comfortable enough to allow Pat to navigate his truck through some pretty rugged terrain without feeling like he was roughed up too badly at the end of the day.

Now that we see a physical manifestation of Pat’s latest rig build, the many questions regarding the ‘how’s’ and ‘where’s’ behind the project begin to surface. While he does have some fabricating experience, he didn’t put the truck together at a professional shop. “This truck was built in its entirety in a two-car garage”, he says proudly. “While I did have some know-how to go on, not so much with our old XJ, which was put together with mostly off-the-shelf parts, I never put together anything of this magnitude before.”

Once the dust settled, Pat begin to look right where he started to prove that his creation was ready to take on the Ultimate Adventure—the very event that gave him the inspiration to put the truck together in the first place. While he was told that the unique and not-often-seen trucks are usually selected to participate in the event, his truck was not chosen the first time he applied. He did, however, get in on it the next year. “It truly was an adventure of a lifetime”, he states. “During the entire 6 days of the event, we only encountered two problems—a rock hole in the trans pan and a shorted wire in the ignition switch. It was great to see how it performed in the event that ultimately pushed me to build it.”

Pat did share with us that his first real trip in the truck (even before the whole Ultimate Adventure experience) was a rip through the famed Rubicon trail, which he completed in one day—14 hours. The truck was mostly untested at that point, but he just had to get out there and match his build up against the realest of proving grounds.

“I couldn’t have made it to this point without seeing what Verne Simons did with his Willys truck first”, Pat says with great pride. “Once I got started with my truck, I gathered a lot of support from some very awesome manufacturers. A huge THANKS goes out to Milestar Tires, Skyjacker Suspension, TR Beadlock Wheels, Motive Gear, Rigid Industries, PowerTank and Warn Industries. Here is proof that you too can build a legit rock crawler in a two-car garage. Just make sure to measure the height of the door before you get started though.”

Mike’s One-of-a-Kind Bosozoku Van

Mike’s van is one of those vehicles that literally everyone has an opinion on. Not just car enthusiasts because it’s fairly uncommon to see a RHD vehicle in the states, more uncommon to see a Hiace and obviously a one time event to see Boso-style Van like this one.

Mike imported it basically as-is from Japan so it fits in with the “vanning” style over there a lot more than some of the vans that were built over here to mimic the Japanese machines. This one is as real as they come.

Bosozoku style is loud, colorful, and strange. It translates to “running-out-of-control” and originated in the ‘50s when gangs of young people would drive around recklessly with bikes and cars that were flashy and strange enough to draw everyone’s attention as they did it. They wanted to be seen defying the laws and their vehicle was a huge help.

This subsect is known as ‘vanning’, and while some vans clearly pull from the visuals of Bosozoku, they’re a super niche sector that doesn’t even fully conform to Boso criteria. Some of the vans have been used by Bosozoku gangs for transporting bikes on longer rides, particular to meets and shows. Even though they are closely related to Bosozoku they are still viewed to be part of vanning as a primary definition.

…It translates to “running-out-of-control” and originated in the ‘50s when gangs of young people would drive around recklessly with bikes and cars that were flashy and strange enough to draw everyone’s attention…

Something that seems to separate Japanese car culture from others is that they are more collectivist and it shows in the way they build vehicles. America lands a 91 on the individualism scale, being unique matters greatly here, demonstrating who you are matters here and we use every outlet from pet, to shoe, to car to tell the people around us who we are and how we differ. We want to seem and feel special. Japanese culture has similar style sectors but you seem to see more strict rules played out throughout the modification process in order to maintain group cohesion.

When I approach a story I usually ask myself what does this car say about its owner or how is it unique, what is the covert meaning? When I asked myself the same question of this van it was clear that it wasn’t designed to say a lot about its owner but it was designed to compliment and contribute to the vanning culture at large.

The primary purpose of these builds, it seems to me, is a sense of culture and group cohesion. On their own they seem outrageous and unique but when a group gets together, a true spectacle is made.

…it wasn’t designed to say a lot about its owner but it was designed to compliment and contribute to the vanning culture at large…

Seeing Mike’s van over here is super out of place and that makes it perfect for American individualism. Vanning builds community in Japan and shows uniqueness in the states, it just goes to show how car cultures evolve and change and grow as they cross borders.

I think I’m not the only one who would love to see a Japanese-style close-knit Vanning club put down roots on this side of the ocean, but for now Mike’s will have to fly solo.

History Of The Dodge Charger: A Quick Look

Many muscle cars of the 1960’s all share a very similar story. While this decade is commonly referred to as the golden era of these fast, flexing street machines, there was a literal war between the companies designing and subsequently serving these cars as hot as possible to feed the market’s insatiable need for speed. 

The Dodge Charger wasn’t the first of these cars types to emerge from the drawing board. In fact, its very existence came in hopes to steal a share of the muscle market from General Motors and Ford, which had already achieved huge success on the streets with the 1964 release of the Pontiac GTO and Ford Mustang respectively. The younger audience that was buying these cars was hopped up on adrenaline, constantly scanning the horizon looking for the next big hit. In 1966, Dodge was there to enter a new horse in the race. 

The Charger came out sprinting to catch up to the frontrunners with four different V-8 engine offerings, one of which was the much-anticipated 426 Street Hemi mill. While the Dodge Charger displayed a strong initial showing during its first year of production, a slower-selling 1967 prompted the company to act fast. What happened next was an alteration to their approach in hopes to remain a viable competitor to the industry’s leading performance models. 

Little did Dodge know the impact said changes would make for the Charger’s second-generation success. At first glance, everyone who laid eyes on the car’s fresh redesign knew right away something big was about to happen. The sleek Coke bottle shape and integrated rear spoiler made the car look fast and capable before the key was even turned. Even today, the ’68-’70 Charger (namely the ’69) remains one of the most recognizable silhouettes in automotive history, as it has been forever immortalized with its multiple big screen appearances. 

…The sleek Coke bottle shape and integrated rear spoiler made the car look fast and capable before the key was even turned…

Backing up the Charger’s aggressively updated appearance, Dodge designated four big block V-8 powertrain options available for the coupe. The mild, entry-level 145-hp 3.7L I-6 was enough to make new-to-market drivers happy, but for the more wild at heart, two big V-8 engines were lying in wait to exponentially make things far more interesting. Buyers had a hell of a decision to make when starting at the 7.0L Hemi or the 7.2L Magnum power plants, but there was surely no losing with either selection. 

The third generation of the Charger received a second package redesign that was right on par with the looks of many other vehicles of the 1970s (think overly curvy), but lacking a longer lasting appeal that the previous gen had going for it. It was during this time that the Charger tells a shared tale of woes of other performance vehicles in the industry. Increasingly rising insurance premiums and gasoline prices proved to be major threats to the muscle car species as a whole. If that lethal combo wasn’t enough to take them out, the upcoming federal emissions regulations was sure to be certain death for their kind. 

Thankfully for Dodge, the Charger was still able to eek out some semblance of an existence until the end of the 1978 model year when it was taken out of production. Before the plug was pulled on it, the Charger had somehow appeared in the personal luxury car category. For the first time in the car’s history, performance output was not placed at center stage, and to be honest, neither was its styling with regards to today’s standards. The writing was definitely on the wall for the struggling Charger. 

…Increasingly rising insurance premiums and gasoline prices proved to be major threats to the muscle car species as a whole…

After the release of a Charger R/T concept car in 1999, which received good enough reviews, there weren’t any more whispers of the sleeping giant’s name in public again until 2005 when Dodge legitimately rereleased the car as a 2006 model year. The first question on everybody’s mind was quickly answered with authority—yes, this car was worth the wait! 

Even though there was some grumbling from a small sect of Charger ultra purists, the sedan version didn’t look bad—not at all. Even those who had something to say about the car’s extra two doors remained quiet when learning about the Charger’s top-end 6.1L Hemi V-8 SRT8 model—425 ponies and 420lbs-ft of torque will do that. 

A major overhaul came in 2011 for the Charger, which notably included aggressively restyled bodywork and a 6.4L Hemi-equipped SRT model. The car continued to evolve with the introduction of the SRT Hellcat model four years later. The Charger claimed a lot of bragging rights under this badging with the inclusion of a supercharged 707hp 6.2L Hemi attached to an 8-speed paddle-shifted ZF auto transmission. Yeah, those are big numbers, especially for a five-passenger sedan.

 It’s safe to say that 56 years after its inaugural release, there’s never been a more exciting time to own a Dodge Charger. 

JDM Classics take the Spotlight at State of Speed Los Angeles

March’s State of Speed Los Angeles event was presented by Milestar Tires and was in collaboration with Sonkei Blue Social & OCJM, so it was a special one to say the least. The chosen theme was Japanese Classics, which usually make a pretty big appearance at the meets, but this time around the organizers wanted to specifically highlight that collector community. 

While the cars were the centerpiece, hanging out with friends while sipping Commodity Coffee and eating vegan donuts was, as always, equally important. 

…hanging out with friends while sipping Commodity Coffee and eating vegan donuts was, as always, equally important…

The cars that were spotlighted needed to be 20 years or older. Some incredible examples made the early morning trek out which can be seen in the gallery below.  

The Hot Wheels race track (which has made appearances before) was brought back out for the event and was a total hit with kids (big and small). By 7:30 a.m the whole lot was filled up and the event stayed full and energized until the very end. While Japanese classics were the main attractions, great examples of American muscle, exotics, and everything in between came out.

State of Speed continues to attract consistently high quality vehicles and an ultra- enthusiastic crowd. They plan to continue to host themed events and collaborations for the remainder of the year. Their next spotlight is expected to be BMW v. Mercedes and won’t be one to miss.

A Quick-Hitting History Of The Chevrolet Impala

Chevrolet’s Impala is an iconic nameplate that has been around since 1958 until 2020 when it was yanked from production for the second time. Throughout the years, and 10 generations later, this car has seen its fair share of restyling and reconfiguration to fit in with the auto industry’s ever-changing climate. 

First introduced to the world as the Bel Air Impala, the name itself designated itself as the top-of –the-line trim package for Chevy’s well-established, deluxe full-size car line. While the first example of the Impala was built to commemorate Chevy’s 50^th anniversary, it gained enough traction to become a stand-alone production model the very next year. 

Car fans fell in love with the styling of the ’58 Impala with its wide yet sleek appearance, but the factory quickly tweaked its appearance to give it a fresh identity that was all its own. In its second year and generation, the brand new Impala line featured exterior tail fins and teardrop shaped headlights, and sat atop of an X-frame chassis that promoted a lower ride height and had great structural integrity. The Impala was made available in multiple body variations such as a two-door hardtop or convertible and a four-door hardtop or sedan—the options were plentiful. 

While the Impala was quickly gaining popularity in its first couple years on the street, it wasn’t until the very start of the third generation in 1961 when things really got interesting when the release of the Super Sport performance package was first made available. While the SS model was available with many powertrain options to choose from, including Chevy’s brand-new 409ci 360hp V-8, which really allowed the Super Sport designation to live up to the hype. While upgraded performance gains were the major reason consumers opted for this premium badging, its many plush interior features and heavier-duty chassis components were also just as desirable. 

The exterior packaging changed again during the Impala’s third generation, and overall, the car became boxier than before. The new look of this particular redesign has had long-lasting power and is one of today’s most popular selections for restorations and full custom rebuilds throughout the car’s history. You’ve most likely seen Impalas of this vintage cruising in music videos or heard about rolling in a ‘six-four’ on the radio a time or two before. 

…this particular redesign has had long-lasting power and is one of today’s most popular selections for restorations and full custom rebuilds…

While the fourth generation saw its own redesign, which brought a more sleek and modern aesthetic to the Impala’s exterior, it also represented the car’s seeming most popular iteration to date for car buyers of the era, as it sold over a million units alone in 1965. Another interesting happening during this generation was the dropping of the availability of the wagon option in 1969, which had been a great family-friendly package from ’65-’68. 

During 1971-1976, the Impala once again went through another major appearance overhaul, while still offering the outstanding comfort and interior space consumers had come to associate with the nameplate. It was also during this time that the Feds began cracking down on emissions regulations, which in turn directly led to dramatically lower performance offerings being made available. These limitations were not specifically unique to the Impala, or the Chevy brand for that matter—the strain was felt all throughout the automotive industry.

…It was also during this time that the Feds began cracking down on emissions regulations, which in turn directly led to dramatically lower performance offerings being made available…

After going though yet another repackaging starting in 1977, the Impala’s sixth generation saw the car’s retirement from production in 1985. The premium Caprice package trim, which had proved to be popular in years past, began outselling the Impala as a sports coupe, yet the sedan Impala was still a popular selection for families during this period. Either way, the Impala was out, and the Caprice was given a chance to run as its own model.  

When the Impala became a fond memory, there were no plans to bring it back until almost a decade later in 1994. This 7^th generation only lasted two years in production, but since this release was strictly an SS model equipped with a decent 5.7L 260hp LT1 power plant, critics weren’t overly thrilled with the four-speed automatic transmission that was made the only option available. While the upgraded suspension setup was praised, however, this version didn’t have the right moves to hold the market’s attention for long. 

After being sidelined yet again, the Impala took another breather for another four years until it was revived again in 2000. This time, it remained on the street until it was recently canned once more in 2020. This most recent run spanned two whole decades that proved to be rather influential throughout the years as it hung around at the top as Chevrolet’s luxury full-size car offering. 

Many wonder if the Impala will make yet another return. It’s hard to count this car out, as it has been sent to pasture multiple times only to be roped back into production rotation. If the car does come back, it’ll be interesting to see what it will look like and what kind of new features it’ll be flexing. If the Impala does remain in extinction this time, it will remain near and dear in the hearts of millions of car enthusiasts.  

Nissan Skyline GT-R Untold History and Myths

What You Should Know about Your Favorite Tuner Car

We get it, we live in an age bombarded with information on a daily basis though multiple platforms and devices. Couple that with the trend of no one trusting the automotive media with everyone and their mom being a content creator and proper historical information. Content creators mess up facts and don’t grasp the basics but can mask it with entertainment factor using adjectives or dropping phases like “dope spec” or “dude, so cool” on their videos. Without much bite to the content, the information about cars that were never sold here like the Nissan Skyline GT-R are muddled half-truths that just make enthusiasts or GT-R owners sigh. But here are a number of common myths and the untold truth behind the Skyline GT-R, a brand that really rocketed Nissan to the forefront of performance cars in the 1990s.

…the information about cars that were never sold here like the Nissan Skyline GT-R are muddled half-truths that just make enthusiasts or GT-R owners sigh…

GT-R Super Car or GT Car ?

We hear this one a lot. But by definition a supercar is going to have 500+ horsepower and an exotic platform and styling that is afforded by a mid-engine rear-transaxle car. In Japan, the GT-R was less of a Ferrari or Lamborghini and more of a Porsche or spicy 4-seat coupe that was comfortable and luxurious, yet a great performer. The term actually in the trim name (GT) Grand Touring and was purchased by businessmen new in Japan for ¥4,450,000 or $31,283 USD (roughly $66,000 adjusted for inflation). Even by the time the R34 GT-R wrapped up its run in 2002 it wasn’t Ferrari or Lambo money at ¥4,998,000 about $45,600 USD (a tick over $76,000 in 2022 money).

Skyline GT-R Can Handle 1000 Horsepower

Well, that is a “hell no” from us owners. The Skyline GT-R really isn’t all that exciting in stock form. Sorry to burst your tunerboi bubble but this was a 276hp car with embarrassing torque numbers from 1989 to 2002! It shared many components with Nissan cars like the S13 240SX and Z32 300ZX but the sum of its parts and that incredible ATTESA-ETS AWD system with screaming high rpm RB26 made for a spirited drive.

…The Skyline GT-R really isn’t all that exciting in stock form. Sorry to burst your tunerboi bubble…

But the GT-R needs to be uncorked and tuned. The bottom end of an RB26 can handle 500whp for a bit but early ceramic wheel turbos won’t get you there and will explode if you try. The later R34 steel wheel Garrett turbos can flow close to 500whp but the transmissions and clutches will not be happy. The R33 GT-R transmission was an upgrade from the R32 and the Getrag 6-speed in the R34 is pretty stout but not for high-horsepower abuse. Suffice to say all the big horsepower GT-Rs have built blocks and added displacement of stroker or the RB30 block.

Skyline GT-R R32s Were Single Turbo RB20 and Rear Wheel Drive  ?

Back in the 1990s, there was sparse information about this Japan-only car. Info had to be translated and/or scanned in from Japanese magazines as the fledgling internet didn’t have the volume of info. An ancient Geocities page cited the 1989-1994 Skyline GT-R as being single turbo and not AWD. This is correct for the GTS-T and lesser trims but this GT-R myth exists today. We regularly hear: “oh you converted to RB26 and the AWD,” it’s easier to just say “yes” and move on.

Nissan Stopped Making the Skyline in 2002

Wrong. The Skyline soldiered on, albeit awkwardly in Japan with cars like the anemic Skyline 350GT based on the G35 we tested in 2004. It was an embarrassment but there was also a 370GT based on the later Infiniti G37 and even a crossover version we will not speak further of. Then they resurrect the Skyline 400R nameplate on a Q50 sedan that although it has 399hp pumping from its VR30DDTT 3.0L V6 twin turbo, it just isn’t worthy of the R33-based 400R nameplate 

Another fact you can amaze your friends with, GT-R production kinda snuck on in 2003. The 2003 Nissan Skyline GT-R Z-Tune is stupid rare with only 19 ever made. Nissan bought back low-mileage (under 30,000km / 18,000 miles) and completely rebuilt them with all of the Nismo catalog of parts. One confirmed sold for over $500,000 in Hong Kong, another privately changed hands for over $1-million USD and another Australian buyer made an offer of $1.4-million but was turned down. Not bad for a $120,000 Nissan.

You can Legally Import Any Skyline GT-R After 25 Years

You can but definitely not on January 1 of your model year plus 25. The rule goes by month and year, for example 1989 R32 GT-Rs started rolling off the line in August 1989. We know one buyer who tried to be slick and roll across the Niagara Falls, Ontario to Buffalo, New York border at 12:01 AM January 1, 2014. He made it, a few months later the feds came seeking more documentation about the car that wasn’t legal until the build month on the VIN.

Another stipulation in the 25-year vehicle importation rule is that cars are not allowed to have motor swaps. They are also supposed to be relatively stock with not a load of aftermarket performance modifications on them. While not technically legal, the Feds either don’t seem to notice or be well-informed on what stock parts actually look like as all GT-Rs are modded.

You Can’t Insure a Right-Hand Drive GT-R

Obviously you can, and should. If your mainstream insurance carrier is giving you a hard time try collector car insurers like American Collectors or Grundy. It’s far less cost and they don’t really have many stipulations that some classic car insurers will. One of the issues you will run into is the VIN number since they JDM cars are 11-digit VINs while we have 17. But many insurance companies will want an inspection done and multiple pictures to justify your ancient Nissan being worth so much replacement value.

Skyline GT-R are Slow, Unreliable, and Blow Up

This is simply not the case. Myself and many owners have experienced years of amazing on-and-off track driving, while twitchy exotics are constantly in the shop. Any 1990s Nissan was well-engineered and can handle abuse. Plus when they do break, the Nissan F.A.S.T. parts system means you can get most parts at your local Nissan dealer. They won’t believe you and can’t look up year, make or model but give them a part number and they will be amazed.

Much of this myth perpetuated for two reasons. The first reason is many early Skyline owners either didn’t buy a GT-R but bought a GTS or the most broke-ass abused GT-R they could barely afford. There are over 43,000 R32 GT-Rs and a portion were poorly maintained, raced and improperly modified in Japan. The second angle to this myth is many of the cars blew up for very simple reasons, the wrong fluid and the wrong gas!  A responsible owner is going to replace all fluids with correct spec and capacity in their new-to-them JDM car.Many owners did not do this, or put the wrong stuff in, like gear oil in an ATTESA transfer case – try it out.

Then there is the pump gas issue. We measure our octane rating using the RON+MON system, which tops out at 91-94 octane depending on your state. Well the GT-R needs 100 octane but Japan has a different rating system so that number is closer to our 98. Don’t be putting 91 octane in a GT-R, upping the boost and try to be a JDM-hotboi. You will be melting a piston, spinning a bearing or exploding a ceramic turbine – 100% guaranteed.

Older Japanese cars will have solid maintenance due to Sha-Ken safety inspections and emissions tests. But once they have trouble passing, they hit auction for export – remember that. 

“mY bOy gEtS GT-Rs FoR 25K”

No he doesn’t. He probably doesn’t have a $25,000 net worth. Back when they were first legal, GT-Rs costing that much did exist but those days are over. Anyone claiming they can get a cheap GT-R shouldn’t be trusted anyway, there are many reVIN’ed cars, blackmarket cars or nearly destroyed and welded back together cars. There ain’t no Japanese CARFAX and most odometers have been replaced or stopped working. Verified mileage is rare, unmodified cars even rarer and example with both along with no accidents is an actual unicorn – buy it. But before purchase always do a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI). 

…Older Japanese cars will have solid maintenance due to Sha-Ken safety inspections and emissions tests. But once they have trouble passing, they hit auction for export – remember that…

GT-R prices are soaring, $25,000 won’t even buy you a new RB26 long block motor let alone a whole car. Nissan has introduced their heritage program to completely restore your R32 to factory specs with new OEM parts but charging upwards of $420,000. Collectible R34 GT-Rs are new fetching over $300,000 and guaranteed to be half a million dollar cars by the time January 1st, 2024 rolls around.

Then & Now: A Quick Look At The Dodge Challenger’s Past & Present

With so much buzz given to the Hellcat and Demon trim packages these days, it sometimes seems like there is somewhat of a disconnect from the Dodge Challenger of the early 1970’s. While the level of excitement surrounding the modern muscle car currently sits at an all-time high, the beginning stages of Dodge’s entry into the pony car scene some 52 years ago weren’t much more than hopes based on performance-centric auto market predictions.

Introduced to the market in 1969 as a 1970 model, the OG Dodge Challenger showed up as the new kid on the block to those into manufacturer-tuned performance cars. With the Ford Mustang and Chevy Camaro already well established names during the golden era of the American muscle car segment, the Challenger was originally designed to be a worthy and capable stable mate for Plymouth’s Barracuda to help take on the competition.

…the Challenger was originally designed to be a worthy and capable stable mate for Plymouth’s Barracuda…

While the Challenger did its part of raising awareness of Chrysler-branded performance cars, it also simultaneously carved out its own devout fan base rather quickly in its short production run. When it was first introduced, the Challenger won so many consumers over based on the sheer amount of customizations available to buyers at dealerships nationwide.

The Challenger boasted a wide range of powertrain selections to admire from a modest 225ci 144hp inline six engine to a 440-cubic inch 390hp V-8 power plant, the car was made available in a total of nine total engine configurations to perfectly suit the many types of owners looking to bring one home.

To build upon the Challenger’s generous powertrain menu, the first generation was originally offered in either a two-door hardtop or convertible model with trim packages ranging from the base platform Special Edition (SE), mid-level Road/Track (R/T), and a limited edition Trans-Am (T/A) model that was one of the first production vehicles to offer staggered front and rear tire sizes while meeting the qualifications for legit Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) Trans-Am racing. The Challenger also had one of the most impressive number of color palettes in the industry of paint codes to select from as well.

It was an exciting time for Chrysler, and even more so for fans of the Challenger specifically. The car’s appeal to gear heads, as well as to folks simply looking for a sporty car to drive was nearly immediate. But like all good things, the Challenger’s future was snuffed out all too quickly in 1974. The hike in insurance premiums during that time, the creation of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in 1970, along with a worldwide gasoline crisis going on in 1973, the carbureted muscle car industry was hit blow after blow, ultimately resulting in one challenge the Dodge Challenger just couldn’t overcome.

It wasn’t until 2006 at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit that a sign of the Challenger’s possible resurrection was made public. A concept vehicle based on the styling cues of the first generation and presence of a 6.1L HEMI engine under the hood, went over better than expected, and eventually led to yet another production run in 2008 due to overwhelming demand. The Dodge Challenger was back on the streets—kind of.

While only a limited number of high-end, fully loaded SRT8 models were made available in that first year back, not everyone who wanted a new Challenger could get their hands on one. 2009 proved to be the car’s full return to consumers looking to buy one according to their preferred specifications. Muscle car admirers were once again able to hop back into the driver seat with a base model SE equipped with a 3.5L 250hp V-6 with the option to upgrade to a R/T package complete 5.7L 375hp HEMI engine with even more options and performance add-ons to select from.

…2009 proved to be the car’s full return to consumers looking to buy one according to their preferred specifications…

Throughout the years, the Challenger became available with more aggressive HEMI packages, but found itself becoming overshadowed by the competition, namely Ford’s Mustang GT500 and Chevy’s Camaro ZL1. Dodge’s response to potentially being hopelessly overpowered by these cars was its release of the SRT Hellcat—a car equipped with a 6.2L rendition of the Gen III HEMI that was teamed up with a 2.4L twin-screw supercharger to produce 707hp and 650-lb fit of torque.

This escalated the Challenger to the top of the heap, but in an effort to remain ahead of the pack, the same 6.2L HEMI found in the Hellcat was blessed with a larger 2.7L supercharger, along with a suite of upgraded engine components to make for the 808hp nucleus available in the notoriously powered SRT Demon package that was limited to only 3300 units.

For 2022, there are a total of nine different Dodge Challenger trim levels topped off with two high-end cars—the SRT Hellcat Redeye and SRT Super Stock premium models. The Challenger still remains attractive to a wide audience, from the entry-level 303HP V-6 AWD package to an 807hp rocket in the Super Stock trim that thrives on 91-octane pump gas.

It’s safe to say that the Challenger remains a crowd pleaser to this day more than 50 years after its original release. Even with the plug being prematurely pulled back in ’74, the legendary car has sat through a decades-long hiatus and has come back swinging for the fences.

Hodson Motor’s 1965 Jeep J60 Dually:
One of a Kind, One at a Time

You’ve seen their trucks before (and are most likely obsessed with one or all of them if you’re anything like us). Their personal collection of insanely cool, larger-than-life custom pickup creations are definitely labors of love, and each one is an example of equal parts creative vision, healthy obsession and attention to detail and purpose.

Of course, we’re talking about the legendary father/son combo Derrick and Riley Hodson. The Hodsons call the outlying dessert landscape of Las Vegas home, which is just far away from the bright lights of the big city to give them all the peace and quiet they need in order to dream up these large-scale truck build before getting down and dirty bringing them to life.

Classic, rare medium-duty trucks are the Hodsons’ forte, and over the years, they have truly developed a design perspective that is uniquely their own—you’ll know a Hodson truck when you see it. The truck itself will be an industrial-grade pickup of some sort that wasn’t meant for the everyday consumer to hold the keys to, but that’s half of the appeal. Once the guys zero in on a truck they want, they located it, dig it out of its long-time place of rest, and apply their own special sauce to the equation. So far, this process has yet to let them down.

…you’ll know a Hodson truck when you see it…

Even though Derrick and Riley specialize in legitimate medium-duty trucks, they also like to drive the trucks they built—otherwise, what’s the point, right? To allow them to have a get more seat time behind one of their own creations, they sat down and developed what they now affectionately call the Jeep J60—essentially a 4-door J10 pickup. If you’ve never heard of this particular model before, don’t fret—it has never existed. Well, until now.

This particular project was designed to be more of a real-world daily driver. Now, don’t get us wrong—each and every one of their builds is painstakingly designed to function well on the road. Broken down, the Hodson’s Jeep J60 consists of a Jeep Wagoneer 4-door that has been sliced at the back of the cab and sealed up with the back wall of a J10 pickup cab grafted in. The rear doors received a great deal of metalwork to further give this creation the appearance of a true 4-door pickup.

…each and every one of their builds is painstakingly designed to function well on the road…

The front of the cab features a 60’s-era Gladiator grille that resides front and center, as well as wide front fenders from Autofab. The rear features a custom bed, a big side step tailgate, and step side fenders that have been widened a whopping 10 inches! The paint color of choice that makes all those cool customizations gel in complete harmony is Ford Raptor Lead Foot grey—and man, does it look good.

Paint isn’t the only Ford component to be incorporated into the creation of the J60, however, as the full-custom body was laid atop a 2004 Ford F450 dually chassis complete with a 6.0 Powerstroke engine and 5-speed automatic transmission. This truck sounds just as good as it looks with that big diesel rumbling underneath the hood, and to give the truck the oversize appearance that is synonymous with all Hodson trucks, 22-inch American Force wheels covered in 37X13.50R22 Milestar Patagonia X/T tires were bolted into position. The roll bar the guys went with is as burly as it looks—even more so, actually. While a lot of roll bar setups are fabricated out of hollow tube pipe, the stuff used here is solid through and through.

Hopping up into the cab is made easier with AMP Research Powerstep running boards, and with just one glance inside the cab, you’d be blown away by how clean the interior space is. Black and grey upholstered seats and other paneling from TMI Products helped make all the difference in updating and upgrading the entire confines of the J60. Creature comforts are never spared in any of the Hodson one-off pickups. While this truck already boasts an impressive lineup of high-end amenities, the guys wouldn’t dare one of their projects be considered finished without Dakota Digital gauges, a full audio system, power windows and door locks, and of course, ice cold A/C.

While the J60 is hardly alone as the single shining star in the deep Hodson stable, it does stand as one of their favorites. This truck does get a little more road time than some of the others, but that was the point of building it. Unless the guys are just planning to go for a cruise without making many (if any) stops, any selection from their lineup would do just fine, but the J60 has been dialed in to give them everything they love to put into their projects, in a slightly more compact package—even through there’s really nothing small about it.

Five years have been invested into this build, and a talented supporting cast in Nefarious Customs, 6651 Customs, Airth Defined, Cheyenne Ruether, Jeeprecyclers.com, and more were sourced to bring it all together. Trucks like these don’t just appear out of nowhere—they require a lot of imagination, skill, patience, and a sh*tload of parts.

Parkhaus1 Miami: Porsche Magic for 911s and P-Car Classics

Complete Porsche Restorations, Sales, Tuning and Dealer Alternative

Everytime a car contact of ours visits Miami and South Florida, they typically make inquiries about which supercar and classic car hotspots they need to visit. One Porsche 911 owner stopped by and later admitted within five miles of our location, he saw more supercar and hypercar content versus several years back home… all in one afternoon! Aside from the multiple 918 Porsche Spyders and RS cars we viewed that day, he wanted to experience real classic, rare and outrageously modified P-Cars, and there is only one place for that, Parkhaus1 in Miami. We visited Parkhaus1 during one of their open houses but really on any given day, the  Porsche hardcore will find untold wonders of rear-engine 911s, plus a few MR and FR platforms too.

Parkhaus1 (or as they call it, The Porsche Sanctuary) is famous throughout the country and continent spanning down to South America for serious clientele. If you have the means, Parkhaus1 one will either build your dream or sell it and the caliber of inventory in the showroom is always impressive. The shop houses Porsche products of all decades, turbo and NA, narrow and widebody with upgraded cars in nearly every stage of tune. The open house coincided with client cars on display and the crowds were in a frenzy as this is almost Das Renn Treffen lite but on a monthly basis.

…If you have the means, Parkhaus1 one will either build your dream or sell it and the caliber of inventory in the showroom is always impressive…

Das Renn Treffen is the annual Porsche show held in Miami that bills itself as the largest on the east coast. Second only to Luftgekϋhlt (air cooled in German), Das Rϋenn Treffen attracts everything from low-buck 996 Turbos to near priceless Porsche 962C, 935 and 959 race cars. Parkhaus1 clients always have a huge presence there, creating much of the special content at the show.

Parkhaus1 is in deep south Miami, so when coming from northern counties like Broward or West Palm Beach, it can be a grind on the treacherous I95. But passing by the area Porsche dealerships can be worth the drive (or flatbed). A fairly new shop, Parkhaus1 was launched in 2014 by a group of Porsche enthusiasts looking to create a trusted name by doing incredible work on Porsche cars of significance. They retail rare and limited classic and late model cars but also focus on being a dealer alternative for pricey maintenance and repairs. South Florida dealer rates are over $200/hr so the Parkhaus1 $149/hr alternative is appealing to P-car owners out of warranty.

Another perk at Parkhaus1 is their Pre-Purchase Inspection service (PPI) that comes in around $349 for most P-Cars. Whether you want to see if an IMS bearing has been addressed or the body on a 356 isn’t just a hammered out rusted shell coated in layers of Bondo, buying a car remote (or local) can be a nightmare. Parkhaus1 takes all the future headaches out the equation with Gold Meister service techs at the ready for air-cooled, watercooled, naturally aspirated and turbo engines regardless if they are located in the rear, front or all chassis points in between!

The staff gave us the shop tour and a bit of backstory for each Porsche car on display. While there we saw a rare bird, Rauh-Welt Begriff (RWB) widebody 993 Cabriolet that came all the way from Georgia. Akira Nakai-san also had a few Rauh-Welt Begriff parts shipped there for an upcoming RWB 930 conversion on-site. There were manual Porsches galore for the purists like the 911R. Naturally, we couldn’t stop gawking at the uber-rare 993 911 Turbo S in the showroom with those prices soaring in the past few years.

…A fairly new shop, Parkhaus1 was launched in 2014 by a group of Porsche enthusiasts looking to create a trusted name by doing incredible work on Porsche cars of significance…

Spreading out from the indoor climate-controlled showroom, low-mile, pristine Porsches for sale stretch out to the front lot. How low mile is low mile? Well, Parkhaus1 currently has a 1989 Porsche 911 Speedster for sale that has only 3,500 miles on the clock. There are also tuned cars from TechART and a quarter million dollar Ruf, the 400-horsepower 6-speed BTR3 Turbo Cab there too! Regardless of year, make, model, trim or limited production units Parkhaus1 has for sale, one aspect of their Porsche cars is that they have been maintained, serviced and are documented with a reliable source. No surprises here and Parkhaus1 always accepts trade-ins for the right cars with no skipped maintenance intervals or sketchy history either.

When in Miami, Parkhaus1 should be on the list of must-see car attractions. Even non-Porsche aficionados will find automotive wonders to really stop and soak in at Parkhaus1 and their doors are open to customers and fans.

What Supercars have the Best Price to Performance this Year?

With under $200K to Spend, These are the Best Supercars to Buy in 2022

Wow, it’s already 2022 and the past two years have been a decidedly weird blur of strange events like labor shortages, back-orders and sparse microchip production in the automotive sector. But as certain OEM manufacturers have been hit hard missing targets, supercar manufacturers have posted record gains and certain models fly off the shelves. We then asked, what supercars on sale in 2022 are attainable but amount to the cheapest, high performance supercars to buy.

For the sake of the article, it is widely accepted that a supercar today is 500hp+ with a mid-engine and rear-drive transaxle. A proper supercar makes use of more exotic materials, composites and advanced technology to set it apart from the brute force of lesser platforms like say a Mustang, Camaro or even a GT-R. A supercar can be had for under $200,000 (if there are units available) and this list is the most-affordable, yet capable performance vehicles available. 

2023 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 C8 – $89,500 (est.)

Yes, we know the Z06 is a 2023 model year and that deliveries and dealer mark-ups could be a circus but this is a supercar-slayer will be on sale Summer of 2022. The Corvette C8 itself was an incredible platform overhaul that has been rumored since the 60s but finally the mid-engine American supercar is actually here.

The upcoming 2023 Corvette Z06 promises to eclipse not only the soft-bellied C7 Z06 it replaced but anything close to its price-point. Derived from the C8.R racecar tech that put the hurt on the field at Le Mans, Sebring 12h and Daytona 24h is coming for fancy Italian, British and German mid-engine offerings. With an incredible sounding flat-plane crank V8, there is no turbo and no supercharger to put out its 670 glorious naturally aspirated horsepower. 

…The upcoming 2023 Corvette Z06 promises to eclipse not only the soft-bellied C7 Z06 it replaced but anything close to its price-point…

The 2023 Corvette Z06 was tested by Chevy to run 0-60mph in an incredible 2.6-seconds. We can hear you Tesla fanbois, but the 2023 Corvette Z06 will catch a Plaid just past the ¼-mile marker and destroy it on the way to a higher top speed.

2023 Audi R8 Performance RWD – $148,700

When the German brand jumped into the supercar arena, critics thought they were mentally unstable. But Audi already had Lamborghini in it’s portfolio, so the risk wasn’t high and they could design a comfortable everyday supercar that was inexpensive. The R8 V10 has gotten good, so good that it could be cross-shopped with a Lambo Huracan for much less for several years now.

For under $150K, you can get the Audi R8 Performance with spicy rear-wheel drive. It’s lighter and more unhinged than the R8 quattro. With a proven 5.2L V10 using no forced induction, you get 562-horsepower and a capable 3.6-seconds 0-60mph and a 205 mph top speed! Zehr gut! 

2022 Acura NSX Type-S – $169,500

The Acura NSX used to make our cut for best supercar value for performance-to-price when it was cheaper. With harsh critiques about the NSX, Acura took the gloves off for the Type-S, the final trim edition for the supercar that should have been available from launch but limited to only 350 units… worldwide!

The 2022 Acura NSX Type-S is everything the enthusiasts wanted. The hand-built vehicle only handled by master technicians, the same talent behind the NSX GT3 car it was inspired by. Up from 560hp in the NSX, the NSX Type-S now boasts 600-horsepower from its combined SH-AWD hybrid drivetrain. The vehicle has aggressively restyled looks, GT3-derived aero and a twin turbo mill equating to performance value will crush many high-dollar supercars. 

…The hand-built vehicle only handled by master technicians, the same talent behind the NSX GT3 car it was inspired by…

 

With a claimed top speed of 191 mph and sub-3s 0-60mph time, overall performance data is murky. But does it matter? All 350 units are spoken for with a reported 700 buyers in the queue, although the website does state: “All orders are pending. Contact your local dealer to get on the waitlist.” 

2̶0̶2̶3̶ ̶L̶a̶m̶b̶o̶r̶g̶h̶i̶n̶i̶ ̶H̶u̶r̶a̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶E̶v̶o̶  2023 Porsche 718 Cayman GT4 RS – $143,050

Say what you want in the comments, but we changed our minds mid-post on opting for the lower cost 2023 Porsche Cayman 718 GT4 RS versus the aging Lambo for affordable supercars. Porsche is dominating in motorsports and Nϋrburgring records with the 911 GT3, GT3 RS, GT2 RS but now for $150K you can buy a mid-engine chassis GT3-powered, lightweight track weapon that promises to embarrass many supercars like the base Huracan Evo that costs $66K more!

First, let’s settle the ‘whether this is a supercar’ argument now. Yes, it has a MR layout and a flat-6 motor that is technically 502hp (detuned to 493hp) with a number of exotic materials to keep it trim at 3,227-pounds. The GT4-RS might not have McLaren or Lambo styling but Porsche builds capable mid-engine cars and this Cayman outruns their Carrera GT and nearly the 918 Spyder after running a shocking 7:04.5 lap on the Nürburgring! The GT4 RS clicks off a 3.2s 0-60mph time and will hit 196 mph… all for under $150K? Shut up and take our money.

What is the Best Yet Cheapest Supercar to Buy?

McLaren and Lamborghini used to be on this list but now their “entry-level” Artura and Hurcan EVO have crept past the $200,000 barrier. For that reason, they still offer solid supercar value but seem unattainable for the upper middle-class. In the end, if you can go domestic, the 2023 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 is the clear winner here. We predict buyers will be paying double sticker for it and still be happy with how it abuses rival supercars.

Why the Porsche 930 Turbo is Called The Widowmaker 911

The Almost Uncontrollable 911 Turbo is Magic for a Real Driver

Back in the late 90s, I was a total punk when it came to dismissing European car brands. Why? Well with a few minor tweaks, my turbo AWD Mitsu could outrun any BMW, Audi and even Porsche of the day in a straight line or in the twisties. Granted those were stock Euro cars being pumped out in Bavaria, Ingolstadt and Stuttgart but then I got the opportunity to drive a true legend, the Porsche 930 Turbo and the whole perspective changed. This coworker’s 930 Turbo had a handful of Ruf modifications and was so fast, the rear tires never really felt connected to the pavement. But was it the just the tires or was there more to the question: why do they call the Porsche 930 Turbo the Widowmaker?

Let’s be blunt, the name ‘Widowmaker’ implies you are going to die driving this car, and leave your wife a wealthy widow. Back in the 1970s when this car was conceived, we still had the Grand Prix running the Nürburgring Nordschleife Green Hell, no air bags, no ABS and Porsche engineers were smoking potent Euro cigarettes at their desks. Porsche was dominating top level motorsports like Le Mans with turbo tech in the Porsche 956 and Porsche 962C won most of the races in the 1970s and 1980s. But it was the highly successful Porsche 935 turbo, that required, Porsche build FIA homologated models for the street and the Porsche 930 Turbo produced 400 units as required in 1975. 

…the name ‘Widowmaker’ implies you are going to die driving this car, and leave your wife a wealthy widow…

But this was a car that now eclipses the 911 chassis horsepower they had in the Carrera itself. The more pedestrian version of the 911 had 150hp and 173hp for the 911S but the 930 cranked out a whopping 250hp in the 3.0L from 1975-1977 and 296 hp with 304 lb-ft of torque from the later 3.3-liter in 1978 onwards. Coming from 3.0-3.3L, that kind of horsepower might not sound like much in our modern horsepower wars but it was substantial and clearly the rest of the 930 wasn’t ready. Although Porsche upgraded the 911 chassis to address items like weight distribution, downforce, traction and yes the dreaded turbo lag, there were significant problems driving the Porsche 930 Turbo,

“The technology isn’t in the car for it to cope with the amount of horsepower, really.” 1980 Porsche 930 Turbo owner Deryck Shakespeare told Petrolicious, “If you’re not ready for [turbo lag], it will catch you by surprise and it’s lights out.”

My first experience in the 930 Turbo was trying to run 0-60mph times in my (then new G-Tech performance meter. When launching in first gear even with a bit of a roll-out it would just light up the tires and break loose when the boost started coming on. Yes I had powerful turbo cars but, this was a Ruf Turbo that was around 400hp and it was too much for the suspension, tires and weight bias to handle. The best runs we clicked off were low 5-second range but that was starting in second gear!

Remember, that is straight line acceleration and the 3.3L boxer-6 turbo was a handful. He said he didn’t really drive anywhere near the limit because of the cars reputation he had a couple snap-oversteer tank-slapper moments and that was enough to dial it back and just respect the car that completely lived up to it’s name – the Widowmaker.

The Porsche 930 Turbo isn’t a ver substantial car. It was over simplified almost from the beginning and by the mid to late 1980s seemed antiquated versus modern sport luxury offerings. The formula was simple, light chassis, no driver aides, no power-steering or ABS but big on horsepower… it even had an old school 4-speed transaxle. For a minimalist car, that weighed under 3,000-pounds, there was outstanding power-to-weight ratio to be had, especially by the final 1989 production car that came with 330hp. But the weight bias was completely off in this car from the 1970s 

Rear weight bias gave them immersive, off-the-line traction, and the ability to shift weight rear out of corners and rocket out of the exits. Only problem is that balance can’t be too upset as the rear weight give the car a pendulum effect when lateral cornering forces are introduced. Swing that force too much and a snap-oversteer condition arises and in the 930 Turbo chassis is impossible to control. Certainly the throttle can’t be relied on to help steer as the lag is too delayed. When that boost hits, it wouldn’t only add to the instability of the uncontrolled oversteer. As a result, the 930 Turbo and any modified variants from the factory or German turning houses, has to be feathered, has to be respected… you’re not Hans-Joachim Stuck.

The instability and unpredictability of the Porsche 930 did have consequences. There were crashes and deaths attributed to the inherent driving characteristics of the 930. It is rumored that the US market did not receive the 930 Turbo in 1980 to make revisions to the car but that was attributed to it not meeting emissions standards. Europe of course got more horsepower with 325 but let’s face it, they are all fantastic drivers over there. But more importantly, the questionable fate of the 930 Turbo in unskilled hands prompted Porsche to pioneer performance AWD drive systems. Yes the Porsche 959, often credited with being the grandfather of the modern supercar needed advanced traction of electronically-controlled AWD to put all of its 450 turbo ponies to the ground.

…the questionable fate of the 930 Turbo in unskilled hands prompted Porsche to pioneer performance AWD drive systems…

Porsche and turbo now meant they would be synonymous with all-wheel drive. Well at least until traction control, suspension and tire tech caught up. Yes, we are looking at you GT2-RS.

Widowmaker: a term coined by German pilots terrified of their flawed Luftwaffe F104G Starfighter seemed fitting for the Porsche 930 Turbo. Parallels exists since the F-104G was a high performance fighter with an out-of-the-box design but also fatal design issues and it didn’t perform in less-than-ideal conditions.

Why is the Nissan Skyline GT-R Illegal in the US

Most R32, R33, and R34 GT-R Fans Waited 25 Years!

You read about the Nissan Skyline GT-R in tuner mags, you saw the Skyline GT-R steal screen time in Fast and Furious Movies and heard Canadians started driving GT-Rs legally back in the mid-2000s. Yes, the Skyline GT-R is the Japanese GT car that captivated enthusiasts’ attention here in the United States and made it the goal of many fanbois of the Nissan badge. Hardcore JDM fans already knew the GT-R was dominating Japan Grand Touring races in Group-A as well as the streets Tokyo but we still couldn’t import the car to America. The Nissan Skyline GT-R was considered an illegal import in the US and Federal agencies have been on the case about shady imports by seizing cars and shutting down illegal importers.

Being an owner of a Skyline GT-R for nearly 18 years now, I’ve seen, driven and been offered to buy many questionable GT-Rs over time. But why are they illegal?

Before we get into it, let’s set a few facts straight. The Nissan Skyline has many trim levels, like the GTS-T and GT-T that were narrow-body, single turbo with rear wheel drive, others had no turbo or even AWD. There was the GTS-4 R32 4-door sedan and even a wagon with a carburetor! The R33 and more desirable R34 had sedan versions as well, lumbering 4-doors that in our opinion, only confused the brand. This left the Skyline GT-R trim and higher variants the most desirable and importers were willing to go to great lengths of illegal activity to get one here into the US.

A bit of history lesson first going back to the late 1990s. The Skyline was Japanese market only being right-hand drive and early cars had no airbags, no side impact beams, no side markers all compromising occupant safety. Meaning it couldn’t be exported outside Japan, but there was a company named MotoRex spearheaded by Japanese national, Hiro Nanahoshi in California that sought to change all that. At the time, MotoRex was the only company seeking to legally import the Skyline GT-R by performing National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) crash tests, DOT modifications, new VIN plate and any further requirements by the California Air Resource Board (CARB). 

MotoRex rose to prominence very quickly but there was a dirty underbelly to the company with a slick but criminal owner. What the public doesn’t know is that only the R33 chassis Nissan Skyline GTS was crashed in the tests. In Japan this was a cheap car to dispose of for frontal offset, side impact and rear crash tests required by the NHTSA and DOT. The R33 coupe failed the side impact tests and the beam was lowered to achieve a pass in 1999. Although approved, Federal regulators didn’t notice that MotoRex was later legalizing not only R33 but R32s and the super expensive R34 an most of which in GT-R trim. The trick worked and there are over 100 DOT legalized Skyline GT-Rs in the US which became super valuable after MotoRex collapsed amidst controversy and criminal activity. Even a MotoRex VIN plate is super valuable, as wrecked cars magically became roadworthy again.

…MotoRex rose to prominence very quickly but there was a dirty underbelly to the company with a slick but criminal owner…

After MotoRex, shady importers saw the pent up demand for Skyline GT-Rs only ever sold legally in the Japanese Domestic Market and wanted to cash in. The most common scam to get an illegal Skyline GT-R was the old ship as parts and re-VIN move. There are so many illegal R32s, R33s and the worth-the-risk R34s in the US using this method. A chassis was either totally disassembled interior and engine removed (or even cut in half) and then rewelded and assembled together. The GT-R might have been complete(ish) but still needed a 17-digit US VIN to make it able to register because JDM VIN plates are 11-digits. The shady importer would then harvest a similar year Nissan 240SX VIN and rivet it on. Don’t believe it? We’ve driven these cars and been offered them for sale, avoid them at every opportunity. 

Sure you might fool a cop or two but crash and see how fast your insurance company won’t back you. Or wait until the feds show up at your door to take it, if you still want to go ahead other countries can’t wait to buy it at auction for pennies on the dollar when it is sold off for export only.

However, much of that is in the past. Companies like Kaizen, Black Ops and Rivsu have all ceased operations, many cars have been seized and insurance companies got wise to the JDM-trickery. Back in Canada, the 15 year importation rule there meant cars would not require any special modifications to be legal and R32 GT-Rs came in legally as early as 2004. The R34 GT-R has been imported there since 2014 as many of the owners await the big day here in the USA. What is the big day? July 1, 2024 the month when the 1999 Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 chassis first rolled off the line (yes, the 25 rule is legal build month and year, not year alone).

For the sake of discussion, the R34 GT-R Chassis built from 1999-2002 is the most desirable and has become extremely valuable. That made R34 GT-R importation the primary goal of shady importers before 2024 and other wealthy owners who exploited another loophole. Show or Display law means that cars of historical importance and motorsports significance can be imported into the US with various stipulations. Currently, the 1999 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec in the rare Midnight Purple II color and 2002-only Nissan Skyline GT-R M-Spec Nϋr. The Show or Display allows for a maximum of 2,500 miles per year to shows and events only. While some owners might adhere to that with regular habits, others have found questionable “methods” in these mechanical speedo cable-equipped cars.

There are also a number of illegal R34s from Miami to LA and all points in between that are rumored to be existing under their house of cards importation and VIN history. They will then come crawling out of the dirt with their original VIN plates, looking to be resold as fresh, new imports despite being here for year (or decades). If these cars do go legit, the will be far more valuable as many people avoid GT-Rs with Florida titles for example and a handful of other states.

But does it matter if you have a legal, illegal or gray market GT-R you want to buy? For many people, the prices are becoming absolutely unobtainable. BringaTrailer.com sold a 1999 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec in Midnight Purple II for $320K, the M-Spec is going for around the same. The ultra-rare Nissan Skyline GT-R Z-Tune of which there are only 19 has changed hands privately for over $1-million USD. Even the overlooked R32 GT-R is already over $150-grand.

…But does it matter if you have a legal, illegal or gray market GT-R you want to buy? For many people, the prices are becoming absolutely unobtainable…

Before you go hit bid on the next auction, remember the 25 year importation rule has a stipulation than many avoid. Imported cars are not supposed to have engine swaps or heavy modifications. You can dispute all you want, but it’s there in black and white we just get away with it as no federal employee has a pulse on what a mod even is. Then again, RB26 blocks have no serial numbers either.

History of the Nissan Datsun Z and Fairlady

Long Live the new Nissan Z Car!

The Nissan Z and the Datsun Z have seen their moments of sports car glory and awkwardness over the cars 50 plus year history. With production gaps between models and riding the same platform for over a decade, the Nissan Z-Car was ripe for a shake-up or going to be sunsetted in a Renault-Nissan-Mitsubishi Alliance boardroom eventually. Turns out despite turmoil at Nissan and their fugitive ex-CEO, they still can make exciting products. Many thought the 370Z Z34 would be the last Z since the platform dragged on for 13 model years. Now, here we are on the dawn of the 2023 Nissan Z launch and we wanted to round up historical highlights of the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, 300ZX and 370Z that preceded it.

The 240Z that Followed it All

It might be controversial to think today but the Japanese often copied Western world designs that were superior to their own, much like China does today. Japan did have a solid manufacturing base but after World War II, the country was destroyed creating many set-backs but one positive trait emerged. Stemming from thousands of years of Japanese culture, it is common practice to learn from your victors, adapt their ways and end up being superior to them over time. Which leads us to the 240Z, a car that looks like it was sketched by an Italian or more likely Brit designer.

The press and public couldn’t ignore that the Datsun Z, was remarkably similar to the Jaguar E-Type Coupe. Both had muscular rear hind-quarters, a long hood, bubbled rear hatch, bulbus front fenders extending to cut outs for circular headlights. Underhood both had straight-6 engines, manual gearboxes and SU carbs (well, SU-Style Hitachi units on the Z). Step inside and the door cards look similar, the center stack is full of gauges (with the Z being a bit more sculpted into the dash) right down to the three spoke steering wheel. But the 240Z aimed to do a lot with less power, less weight and half the cost – the Japanese way.

Named the Fairlady in Japan and offering different engines, the 240Z we know in the US was named after the displacement of the motor. The 1970 Datsun 240Z had the 2.4L inline-6 DOHC S20-motor that generated a decent 154hp  and sold well, especially in the US despite being sold in ground zero muscle car era. Still the compact Z could muster an 8-second 0-60mph time and reach 120mph while being able to carve corners better than a muscle car. Production numbers soared during 1971 to 1973 and continued on into the smog-equipped oil crisis of 1974. 

…the 240Z aimed to do a lot with less power, less weight, and half the cost – the Japanese way…

The 260Z is rare, since it only came in 1974 and although it ran stroked 2.6L version of the S20, the power decreased in the US to 139hp! Detuned with lower compression and revised camshafts and carbs for America, the Fairlady Z in Japan received a mild bump with the displacement to 150hp. Considered a forgotten stepchild, the 260Z developed an innovation for future Z-cars, the 2+2 option, with seating for four in a 30cm (11.8-inched) stretched frame). The 260Z still sold well with 53,451 units produced.

Datsun then bored and stroked the six to a total of 2.8-liters and branded it the 280Z (no, not the 280ZX, please hold). Engineers fitted it with reliable and efficient Bosch fuel injection system. Despite an increased weight resulting luxuries and larger DOT-approved bumpers, the car was quick since it now produced 170hp from 1975-1977. Don’t think that is a lot of horsepower? The 1975 Chevrolet Corvette C3 made 165hp… from a 5.7L V8. These were dark times indeed but they would get brighter.

The Turbo Age of 280ZX to 300ZX

By 1978, muscle cars were either badge-engineered shells of their former selves or were gone altogether. The Z-Car forged ahead with basically the same playbook it started back in the 1960s into the disco era. Not to be confused with the 2.8-liter cars, Nissan debuted the Datsun 280ZX with the L28 motor. Although the car was almost a cartoonish version of its former version, with T-tops and an odd gold-accented 10th anniversary edition equipped with gold wheels, leather, and headlamp washers in 1979.

But there were advancements that would define upcoming Z-Cars, like the 280ZX Turbo in 1981. The turbocharged car pushed the top-trim 280ZX to 180hp and 203 lb-ft of torque but with added weight, luxuries and an optional 3-speed automatic, there was a problem. Enthusiasts argued the sports car magic was gone and this was now a luxury 2+2 cruiser but who cared? The 280ZX set sales records and bagged a Car of the Year award in 1979.

…by 1978, muscle cars were either badge-engineered shells of their former selves or were gone altogether. The Z-Car forged ahead with basically the same playbook it started back in the 1960’s…

Back then enthusiasts thought the 280ZX looked awkward with dated 1960s sports car styling and Nissan had already planned big moves for the upcoming 300ZX. The motor was now a V6 but not just any V6 the legendary VG30ET. Sure the 3.0 Turbo produced 200hp in the US but it cranked 230hp in other markets and was capable of 739hp in the Nissan GTP ZX-Turbo IMSA race car. Yes, the same IMSA race car that defeated the venerable Porsche 962 on streets of Miami circuit in 1987 and won the Sebring 12hr in 1989 and 1990. Enter the modern era of the Nissan Z-Car.

The Rise of the Nissan 300ZX Z32

Sales numbers and world-beating turbo VG-engine aside, the 1984-1988 300ZX looked 1980s. Nissan rebadged it in 1985 to no longer be a Datsun in the midst of a staggeringly-expensive marketing campaign to lose the Datsun name. The new Nissan 300ZX was all Nissan and recalling the first time it was seen in person, looked like a spaceship in 1989. Nissan was on top of it’s game, the Skyline GT-R R32 was out in Japan, the 240SX was an excellent low buck pure sports car and the flagship 300ZX Turbo would set horsepower and performance records for the Z-Car.

Nissan finally figured out that it could divide a 2+2 Coupe with an NA motor and a fiery 2-seater with the new twin turbo V6. It later became popular to swap this VG30DETT into the 2+2 for extra occupants and cargo but retain the 300hp performance of the 2-seater. Fun fact, the 300ZX Twin Turbo made more horsepower in the US than Japan (capped at 276) for the first time. 

But sales were affected by the recession and rising inflation in Japan. A car that debuted at $33,000 was nearly $50,000 by the end of the production a trend affecting the rival FD RX-7 and Mk4 Supra as well, mean like them US sales were cut early and by 1996, the Z was gone.

But not before a couple special models popped up like the Final Edition limited to 300 cars in 1996, the rare-as-a-telephone booth convertible debuting in 1993 and the SMZ tuned car build by racer Steven Millen, the 365hp Nissan SMZ. Production continued on in Japan (just like the Supra and the stretched to 2002 RX-7) until 2000 when the Z-Car took a worldwide hiatus.

Back to Battle with the 350Z and 370Z

Nissan has gotten a lot of mileage out of their FM-platform. It might not do anything fantastic but it does everything good being the underpinnings to family haulers like the Murano, middle-management sedans like the Maxima and yes modified to be on the Z. The new VQ35DE engine might have lacked a turbo but it was up there for naturally aspirated horsepower and debuted when Sport Compact crazy was burning brightest in 2003.

The 350Z had ridiculous aftermarket support. Turbos and superchargers for the 3.5L V6 were everywhere, widebodies, strokers and scissor doors were not uncommon. The 350Z became a staple in the US drift scene with Chris Forsberg swapping an SR20DET into a Z33 and later winning the 2009 Formula Drift Championship in a Titan V8-swapped Z convertible! The wild success of the Z33, would translate to what in the 370Z trim.

We always liked the 370Z Z34 chassis from it’s launch in 2009. Classic lines, sharper styling, Nissan Flying-V family face, it was compact, more powerful and had a 6-speed manual box with innovated Syncro-rev. But even at 332hp, still felt like not much of a leap plus it went into limp mode on track immediately with its crowded engine bay not dissipating heat. We still were “meh” on the Nismo version of the 370Z at 350hp and for performance enthusiasts there were simply better options out there… with four seats. Plus SUVs and crossovers were the focus of the buying public and automakers looking to cash in.

Is the World Ready for the Reborn Nissan Z

We still believe it should have been called the 400Z. Sure Nissan carried the torch for displacement nomenclature properly (we’re looking at you BMW) but even though the new Z is powered by a 3.0L V6 twin turbo (again) it cranks 400hp, so it would still add up. Considering the Z34 chassis dragged out so long, we predict this is the last Z, heck they even still refer to it as the Z34. With retro styling from Z-Cars of the past, a twin turbo V6 and proper 6-speed manual gearbox – yes this will sell and bring media adoration to Nissan’s Z once again.

A DeLorean Turbo Widebody for the Future

Not Another Back to the Future DeLorean

When fresh automotive news or SEMA builds debut there are many outlets jockeying for position and trying to leapfrog competitor’s publishing dates. But the planets can align when scheduling, connections and a unique angle all work together to capture a feature not seen elsewhere. This time around when the silver twin-turbo DeLorean debuted at SEMA and filled everyone’s feed, we kinda sat back and went: “yeah I know that car, the owner and it’s 15 minutes away,” with smugness. And with that we reached out to builder Tim Moceri of Salvage to Savage garage, who all of a sudden became internet famous in the first few days of November this year.

Tim is a friend for a number of years and we’ve actually collaborated on a build before. Tim crafted an incredible widebody Lexus project that was about to take the internet and SEMA by storm but a number of different factors meant it was mostly a learning experience. The DeLorean has been Tim’s time to flex. He had the hot Gen X platform, a real budget, and the right team at Salvage to Savage garage and well, Tim describes it as “redemption that has solidified future SEMA Shows” for him and we couldn’t hit the ‘LIKE’ button more on that statement.

SEMA 2021 might have been a different show thanks to our old buddy COVID but there was an “it car” from the show and that was this DeLorean. The silhouette of the DeLorean has been made iconic by Hollywood and desired by many 80s kids but if you have ever read a real review, it was hot garbage. An anemic motor, questionable build quality and an assembly line so far in trouble it needed JohnDeLorean to sell cocaine to support it, spelled disaster for the DeLorean… well until now.

If you are wondering about your level of color-blindness, yes the DeLorean is now gold. Wrapped in a sexy satin gold by Von Wraps of Boca Raton, FL, the new look was to set it apart from the SEMA splash. There is also a potential buyer that has an all gold fleet, so draw your own conclusions. 

Conceptualized by the Instagram legend known as The Kyza (Khyzyl Saleem), who put together renderings for this project and is himself stunned at the integrity of the actual build. “Everyone is freaking out how the entire build down to the headlights and taillights emulates Kyza’s drawing,” says Tim “We took what Kyza couldn’t cut and weld together and made it without compromise or changes. It wasn’t supposed to look like anything but the rendering we thought.”

The donor DeLorean DMC-12, was found painted in red and had been in a major accident, so there was no destruction of a perfect collectible car here (not that they sell for much anyway). The stainless steel shell was heavily modified with a widebody flare, which has a carbon fiber composite update in development. A number of bezels and panels along with front fascia were crafted in satin black to work with the SEMA Silver and now the Miami Gold.

The wheels have also made an impact for the build and came from new sponsor Sköl Wheels of California. The custom size and offset Sköl SK17 3-Piece Modular Series were finished in brushed satin face with a polished lip. The aggressive stance of the DeLorean is thanks to Air Lift suspension mated to KW Suspension Variant 3 coilovers made possible by the magic Moceri worked to mount them as there are no part numbers fitting a DMC-12.

Tim is a horsepower addict, this is a guy that built a quad turbo LS truck and for the DeLorean he went with good ol’ GM know-how, the 5.2L LS V8. Not just any LS but a built motor fitted with a pair of Garrett G-Series turbos (unfiltered of course) and modulated by TurboSmart HyperGate 45 wastegates. The plumbing is all TiTek titanium with Vibrant Performance hardware and mastercrafted by Tim to tuck up under the rear bumper in a unique blend of show and go. The whole engine package is orchestrated by a Haltech ECU to make it all play nice together. The twin turbo LS mill is fitted to a Porsche 996 6-speed transaxle to drive power to those fat rear tires.

After the triumphant return from SEMA, Tim didn’t sleep on his accomplishments but got to work with Salvage to Savage on the next steps. Tim is back at the workbench on perfecting the running and driving dynamics of the DeLorean and producing parts in carbon fiber because he says along with this potential buyer, there may be a market. “Thankfully, I have another DMC-12 at the shop if we have to start producing more of these.”

We couldn’t agree more Tim, if we had unlimited car money too we would hop on the list because as fans of all things 80s, there isn’t a better DeLorean tribute out there.

Top 10 Air-Cooled Porsches

From 356 to 993, These are the Cars that Built a Teutonic Legend

The air-cooled, horizontally-opposed engine design that Porsche used with great success over decades had humble beginnings as a four-cylinder development of the original Volkswagen powerplant, but grew to become one of the most iconic engines ever found in both sports cars for the street and pure race cars. Here are ten milestones that cover the 50-year history of Porsche air-cooled boxer street cars.  

1948 – Porsche 356

From the rubble of war-ravaged Europe, a small, lightweight, rear-engine sports car based on the basic powertrain design of the pre-war Volkswagen “People’s Car” was created, dubbed the 356. The flat-four engine grew in displacement (from 1.1 to 1.5 liters), valve count (the 4-valve Carrera became optional at the end of 1955) and horsepower (29kW/39HP initially, 118kW/160HP in the most highly developed version) over the 356’s 76,000+ unit,19 year production run.

1964 – Porsche 911

With the 356 still selling but at the end of its development potential, the automaker introduced a new design, retaining the rear-engine layout but adding an additional two cylinders, which bumped the displacement to 2 liters and power to 96kW/130 horsepower. You may not have heard of this obscure model, as production only continued through 1989, but it represented the cornerstone of Porsche’s business model, with a legacy that continues to this day.

1965 – Porsche 912

Concern over the increased cost of the new 911 model compared to the outgoing 356 led to the introduction of an ‘entry-level’ version of the platform powered by a holdover flat-four sourced from the latest versions of the 356. Lighter, less expensive at $4,700 list price, and offering 66kW/89HP, the 912 substantially outsold the 911 at first, but by 1969 production facility realignment and stricter looming emissions requirements in the critical US market led to the decision to end 912 production in favor of the 911 and 914. In 1976, the 912 name was revived for an “E” model to replace the 914 as the bottom step of Porsche’s three-rung performance ladder until a proper successor came on-line. Just shy of 2,100 total 912E models were manufactured during that single model year, and were only sold in the US market. 

1969 – Porsche 914

Born out of a contractual obligation to provide developmental support for Volkswagen and the need to phase out the 912 in favor of a new model, the 914 was originally conceived as being sold as a VW when powered by a flat-four and a Porsche with 6-cylinder power. Concern about the US market and potential brand confusion led to Porsche marketing both models, bringing the long-standing ‘gentlemen’s agreement’ between the two companies to a sour conclusion. The car itself was a success, outselling the 911 and pioneering a rear-mid-engine powertrain layout that placed the engine ahead of the rear axle instead of behind it as it had been in the 356, 911, and 912. Though more than 118,000 were sold worldwide during the eight year production run, a bare 3,300 914/6 models would be produced. Largely overshadowed today by the runaway success of the many 911 models that appeared subsequently, the 914 was in many ways the blueprint for the modern Boxster/Cayman platform. 

1973 – Porsche 911 Carrera RS

The Rennsport (‘racing sport’) version of the classic 911 is widely considered to be one of the most desirable models from a collector’s standpoint, thanks to their improved performance and relatively low production numbers. Porsche, looking for a competitive edge in racing organizations that demanded a minimum number of cars be built and sold to the general public, created the RS as a ‘homologation special’ with a bigger and more powerful 2.7 liter six delivering 154kW/207HP. Other changes from the standard production model were an upgraded suspension, wider rear wheels and tires, more capable brakes, and aero mods that included the now-iconic “duckbill” rear decklid spoiler. In addition to these features of the “Touring”-spec RS, buyers could also tick the Sport Lightweight box on their order form which substituted thinner body panels and glass, saving an additional 220 or so pounds over the already-light 2,400 pound curb weight of the RS Touring.

1974 – Porsche 930

Though officially referred to as the 930 in the US, this variation was universally known worldwide as simply the “911 Turbo”. Introduced with a 3.0 liter engine rated at 190kW/260HP, the 930 had grown by 10 percent in displacement and another 40 horsepower by 1978; while 300 ponies doesn’t sound like much by modern sports car standards (or even compared to some crossovers), in a lightweight chassis with extreme rear weight bias and legendary turbo lag, it was more than a handful to drive. Even comically-wide rear fender flares to cover enormous rear tires and a giant whale tail spoiler could only partially correct the car’s off-throttle understeer/snap oversteer handling characteristics, and perhaps no vehicle in history other than the Beechcraft Bonanza has actively tried to kill as many doctors, investment bankers, and trust fund kids as the original 911 Turbo. Nevertheless, it remains an object of pharmaceutical-grade desire for anyone who was aware of cars in that era.

…perhaps no vehicle in history other than the Beechcraft Bonanza has actively tried to kill as many doctors, investment bankers, and trust fund kids as the original 911 Turbo…

The 930 had a hiatus in the US market due to emissions issues from 1981 until it was reintroduced for 1986, and by then the car was long in the tooth in terms of engineering, but it was still hugely profitable for the company. Porsche squeezed every bit of sweet, sweet juice out of the Turbo nonetheless, introducing the ‘slant nose’ version towards the end of production in 1989.

1989 – Porsche 964

Marketed as the “Carrera 2” and “Carrera 4”, the internally-designated 964 platform carried over just 15% of its design from the ‘classic’ 911, and was the first version to offer all-wheel-drive; as a matter of fact, the original 1989 model was only available in Carrera 4 configuration with the Carrera 2 coming on-line a year later. Power came from an equally new 3.6 liter air-cooled flat six designated the M64 rated at 184kW/247HP, and the suspension design made the radical shift from torsion bars to coil springs, with the ubiquitous MacPherson strut configuration up front and an independent semi-trailing arm rear. Coupe, Targa, and Cabriolet body styles were offered, and power steering and ABS were introduced as standard features. Buyer demand in the US led to an RS America version for 1993 and 1994, based off of the Carrera 2, featuring a whale tail spoiler, de-contented interior, and lower 2,954 pound curb weight, among other changes. Overall, the naturally-aspirated 964 spanned just half a decade of production but racked up 63,762 cars built among all the configurations.

1990 – Porsche 964 Turbo

With the introduction of the new chassis and naturally aspirated motor but a successor to the previous Turbo’s powerplant still under development, the 930’s engine was used as a stopgap. Changes increased rated power to 235kW/376HP but blunted a bit of the turbo lag, which along with the revised chassis and suspension made the car much easier to drive at the limit than the previous Turbo, but still not particularly forgiving of large changes in throttle position mid-apex. 1992 saw the debut of the Turbo S, which had the same peak power but detail revisions to the tune, a lightweight interior similar to the RS America, a manual steering rack, and lowered suspension. Only 86 were produced, making for one of the rarest road-going 911 models ever offered. By 1993, a new boosted M64 was finally available for the Turbo 3.6 model with 265kW/355HP on tap, but the 964 was nearing the end of its abbreviated lifespan and only one model year and less than 1,500 total cars were produced to that spec. 

1994 – Porsche 993

For the 1995 model year, Porsche once again mutated the 911 DNA to produce another generation with minimal (claimed less than 20%) carryover from the 964. Major frame and suspension design changes improved handling and further tamed the inherent snap-oversteer characteristics common to rear engine designs, and once again both 2 and 4 driven wheel models were offered. While the M64 engine design was carried over, this generation gained a sixth gear in the manual transmission and a bump to 200kW/268HP at introduction. Coupe and Cabriolet body designs were manufactured, along with a complex “greenhouse” roof marketed as a Targa but with a power-retractable glass panel in place of the previous removable section. Production ended in 1998 thanks to the air-cooled design no longer being able to reasonably meet emissions and noise standards, but not without one final model to properly put a coda on the end of the air-cooled 911 symphony…

1995 – Porsche 993 Turbo

Everything came together in the last air-cooled Turbo 911, with a 3.6 liter twin-turbo M64 cranking out 300kW/402HP, the first all-wheel-drive layout for a 911 Turbo, wider rear bodywork, and of course a whale tail spoiler. All the nasty surprises of the original 930 had been eliminated, creating a car that was more forgiving when pushed, not a carnival ride in bad weather, and shockingly quick under all circumstances. The ante was upped in 1997 with the Turbo S’ uprated engine delivering 424 horsepower, and another homologation special, the GT2, was produced and sold in small numbers, making it highly sought-after by collectors. All things considered, the 993 Turbo was a fitting conclusion to the first part of Porsche’s 911 evolution. 

Suspension Tech: Shock Reservoirs and Bypass Valves

Performance hydraulic shocks are both simple, and complicated at the same time. Both their function, and the parts they use are relatively simple, but it’s how they are configured that makes such a huge difference. First let’s look at what shocks do. The weight of the vehicle is held up by some type of spring (air, leaf, coil, or torsion bar). The shocks control the motion of the suspension. They do this by friction which causes heat. In essence, they do the same thing that your brakes do, but differently.

Hydraulic shocks are filled with special fluid that comes in different viscosities. Viscosity is a technical term for how thick, or thin the fluid is. The shock has a body, a shaft, and a piston. The piston is mounted to the end of the shaft which slides inside the bore of the shock body. As the shock is extended or collapsed, the shock fluid inside the body of the shock is forced through openings (ports) in the piston. These openings are covered by flat springs or shims that flex to either open or close the ports. As the fluid flows through the ports, it creates friction, and therefore heat, so it dissipates energy. This is commonly referred to as damping. The heat is then transferred to the air outside the shock. Shocks use thermodynamics, and fluid dynamics to control the movements of your suspension. Like I said, they are both simple, and complicated at the same time. 

Most factory supplied shocks, and inexpensive aftermarket shocks, have no external features. The common name for these shocks are smooth bodies, and it’s one reason why they are inexpensive. They still work the same way as the expensive shocks do, by forcing fluid through the ports in the piston. As the shaft moves in and out of the shock body, the piston moves through the fluid, and the shaft displaces the fluid. There needs to be room in the shock body for that shock fluid to go. On some shocks, they just leave enough air space for the fluid to move. If you are in rough terrain, and the shaft is moving in, and out quickly, the air in the shock body can mix with the fluid reducing the viscosity; creating emulsification. This causes the shock to fade. It can no longer provide the same damping. Your shocks will not be as effective until they cool down, and the air and fluid separate again. To prevent this, some shocks have a floating piston that separates the fluid, and the air. This prevents the fluid from foaming, but it takes up room in the shock. If you are using the factory supplied shock mounting locations, this will limit the amount of travel available for the shock to cycle.       

Most factory supplied shocks, and inexpensive aftermarket shocks, have no external features…

Once you start moving up in price levels, you will see external features like remote reservoirs, and bypass tubes. Both of these features are used to allow additional flow of the fluid inside the shock. Remote reservoirs can be attached to the shock body, or be mounted remotely by using a hose between the shock body, and the reservoir. For added strength, shock manufacturers will increase the diameter of the shock shaft. This then displaces even more fluid. With a remote reservoir, you have the necessary space to allow the additional fluid to be displaced, and you can add additional features that are not typically found on smooth body shocks. Most remote reservoirs have a floating piston, and a valve that allows you to charge the reservoir with compressed nitrogen. Nitrogen is used because it is more stable than oxygen; it expands less when it gets hot. This nitrogen pressure forces the floating piston against the shock fluid so no air bubbles form in the shock fluid. Increasing the nitrogen pressure can also be used as a minute tuning adjustment, but that’s a whole other article. Since fluid is moving from the shock body to the reservoir, some shocks will have an adjuster that controls that flow of fluid. It is one more opportunity to create adjustment to the shock. It allows you to change the damping of the shock by simply turning a knob. You can stiffen them up to control sway on the street, and then back them off so your suspension will travel freely when in the dirt.

When it comes to the ultimate in adjustability, you now have the bypass shock. There are internal, and external bypass shocks. Fluid bypass works on both the compression stroke (the shaft pushing into the shock body) and the rebound cycle (the shaft pulling out). First we will talk about a single, external bypass tube used in compression, and what it does. The bypass tube will be welded to the outside of the shock body. It has an intake port that allows fluid in, and an adjustable, one way valve on the opposite end of the tube that regulates fluid flow back into the shock body. As the piston moves during compression, it pushes fluid into the bypass tube. Depending on the way the valve is adjusted, it could be a lot of fluid, or very little. The more fluid through, the softer it will be, and vice versa. 

Now we can discuss what it means to be position sensitive. Let’s say you have 3 bypass tubes that work during the compression cycle, and the shock is completely extended. As the piston moves into the shock body it is pushing fluid into all three bypass port openings. The openings are strategically placed on the shock so each opening creates a zone. As the piston moves past an opening, no more fluid is moving through that tube. Depending on where the ports are located in the stroke, you can adjust the fluid flow according to the position of the piston. That makes the bypass ports position sensitive. You can make the shock progressively stiffer as it compresses, or several other configurations according to bypass tube placement, and number. The same is possible for the rebound cycle. 

When it comes to the ultimate in adjustability, you now have the bypass shock…

When it comes to bypass shocks, there is also an internal bypass configuration that uses port openings that are not typically externally adjustable. The internal bypass design has a sleeve inside the body where the piston rides. The sleeve has ports in it to allow fluid to flow through to the space between the sleeve, and the larger diameter of the actual shock body. 

We have only covered the basics of bypass, and external reservoirs. There are many different variations and unique applications to these basic concepts. When it comes to shock design, the best and the brightest have been experimenting for over a century. When it comes time to upgrade your shocks, be sure to talk to the experts at the shock companies as technology, and designs continue to advance. Both Fox, and Bilstein are making electronically controlled shocks that are even more intricate, and capable of fine adjustments.     

Online Car Buying – The Next Big Thing?

Your Next New Car could be Made to Order and Delivered Straight to Your Door

Over the past twenty years, untold billions of items have been purchased over the internet, and nearly as many articles have been written about the effect of online retail on traditional brick and mortar businesses. Even before the handbrake got yanked on in-person retail due to Covid-19 concerns, it was already possible to buy anything from groceries from the local supermarket to electronic components of questionable quality direct from the manufacturer in China, delivered straight to your door or mailbox. 

With so much commerce going on via the web, there are still some things that aren’t so easy to buy with the click of the mouse, though – One of them is a new car or truck. The complications involve both the unique aspects of vehicle purchasing and some long-standing laws that were originally designed for consumer protection against manufacturer monopolies, but now mostly shield those who are heavily invested in traditional dealer networks from competition.

Today, we’re going to take a look at the current state of online car shopping, explore the reasons why the status quo exists, and make some predictions about what the future holds for those who’d like to be able to buy a new vehicle with the same convenience you’d expect when ordering Pad Thai because you just can’t bear the thought of cooking again tonight. 

Dont Four-Square Me, Bro…

As far back as the year 2000, almost half the people who responded to a J.D Powers and Associates survey said they would opt to buy cars directly from the manufacturer, even if it didn’t save them any money, and it’s unlikely that near-majority of customers would be less likely to do so today. Clearly, the traditional brick and mortar new car dealership system has a serious problem when so many people would prefer to avoid it entirely even if there was no cost advantage to doing so. 

Today, there are more resources available than ever for car shoppers to do their research, revealing invoice costs, rebate and financing offers, and even once-esoteric hidden seller profit sources like ‘dealer hold-back.’ Nevertheless, the average person may buy a handful of new cars over the course of their entire life, while the dealer literally sells them every single day. Even with better-educated customers closing the information gap, sellers still hold a huge advantage in experience, and the psychological manipulation that is often part of the game is well-documented. It should come as no surprise then that many would-be buyers would welcome the chance to spec out and price a new vehicle the same way you can order a new laptop, with zero interaction (or hard-sell pressure) from ‘helpful sales professionals.’

Manufacturer-Direct Pricing

Another 2001 study on the effect of auto buying referral services in California estimated that on average, those services saved consumers almost 2% compared to traditional sales channels, even though a middleman was still involved in the transaction. Direct sales from auto manufacturers offer even more potential savings, eliminating a lot of the financial ‘friction’ inherent in the current system that requires a huge infrastructure to store, merchandise, and eventually deliver new vehicles to their owners. 

So if nearly half of all potential customers would prefer to buy direct, and it would make new cars less expensive, why do dealerships still exist? There are several reasons, some good, and some bad. One primary obstacle is legislation that specifically prevents OEM sales to consumers outside of the dealer network – only a few states don’t either directly prohibit it or place extensive restrictions on the practice. This dates back more than a century when many of these laws were first enacted, ostensibly to prevent ‘vertical integration’ of the new vehicle market.

At the time, long-standing monopolies in many forms of business were being vigorously dismantled by ‘trust-busters’ in the name of consumer protection. Allowing car and truck manufacturers to completely control the market from raw materials to delivery was seen as unacceptable, and considering the limited range of choices available in the market and the low bargaining power of buyers, a network of dealers/middlemen was seen as the lesser of two evils. Today, there is a LOT of money tied up in the current system, from the real estate and buildings required for dealerships to the inventory they carry on their books and in their lots, so resistance to direct online sales is strong and well-funded. 

What is it Even Good For?

On the positive side for dealers, most new car buyers are going to insist on being able to test-drive vehicles prior to purchase, and the dealership sales model is well-suited to providing that opportunity. This is especially true when consumers aren’t set on the make and model of car that best fits their needs and want to cross-shop, but even the die-hard Corvette guy who knows exactly what he wants is going to make sure ‘his’ car drives properly before taking ownership.

This “showrooming” problem became apparent in the early days of online commerce, where consumers would go to big box retailers or specialty stores to hold something in their hands, then go and order it on the internet for a lower price. The physical store was stuck with all the costs of infrastructure and inventory, with no sales to show for it. 

One possible solution comes from what’s already been tried in countries without restrictions on direct manufacturer sales, where franchised dealers receive a commision for online sales in their exclusive territory as a way to cover the costs of maintaining a sales and service network and providing the “last mile” of vehicle preparation and delivery.

Speaking of service, warranty work, ongoing maintenance, and parts sales turn out to be a significant revenue source for new car dealers, one that even outweighs the profitability of car sales themselves. According to the National Automobile Dealers Association, over a ten-year period studied the average new-car dealership’s sales department varied between over $150k in profit and almost $50k in losses, while the service and parts department were continuous money-makers with net profits growing from $150k per location to over $300k. Much like the old business strategy of giving away razors to sell more blades, it seems that the most consistently profitable part of a new car dealer’s operations lie in taking care of vehicles rather than selling them. 

…it seems that the most consistently profitable part of a new car dealer’s operations lie in taking care of vehicles rather than selling them…

What About Tesla?

At this point, the only new vehicle manufacturer actively making direct-to-consumer sales is Tesla Motors, and in order to do so they’ve had to come up with convoluted custom legal work-arounds in almost every jurisdiction. In some places, Tesla showrooms can offer test drives and answer questions, but any talk of pricing or ordering is as taboo as saying “bomb” in the airport. In others, the number of Tesla sales locations is limited to a handful per state, or the semantic distinction of not having any ‘franchised dealers’ allows the company to simply ignore laws originally written to protect traditional sales outlets.

Regardless of how Tesla has managed to make direct sales work, any traditional manufacturer with an established dealer network is going to have to fight with their existing franchise owners to allow consumers to skip the usual baffling ordeal that is the new car purchasing experience. It seems inevitable, though, given consumers’ strong preference for online buying and the significant savings possible. Traditional dealers will be faced with choosing to hang on to an expensive business model their customers hate that has been made obsolete by technology, or pivoting to provide the profitable services that will still be necessary when large-scale direct sales become a reality.

Top 5 Overlanding Necessities

1. Water

Water is a no-brainer because you cannot live without it. It is the most basic necessity regardless of where you are. It is used for drinking, washing, cooling your engine, and preparing food. Early transportation routes were laid out according to where clean water could be found. They were routed from one watering hole to the next. Those who like to go overlanding where water is abundant still need a way to filter it before drinking. There are all types of filtering devices from hand held straws, to elaborate reverse osmosis, or ultraviolet light emitting systems that can be mounted to your vehicle. Boiling the water is also an option, but that requires time, and fuel. If you are harvesting water along the way, you will need containers to capture, and store it. You don’t want to put filtered water back into a container that had untreated water in it, so you need more than one.

Those who are in dry locations will have to haul their water in. Any long term trips off the grid will be limited by the amount of water you use, or don’t use. There are many tricks to conserving water. One is to scrub pots and pans with sand or dirt instead of water. Just be sure to get it all off before your next meal. A gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds. Gasoline only weighs 6.1 pounds per gallon. Think of how sturdy gas tanks are built. Your water tanks need to be just as robust, and be mounted low on the vehicle, like fuel tanks, in order to keep your vehicle stable. If you are going to be overlanding, you need a reliable system in place.  

2. Tires

You need good tires when you head off road. They are the only thing between you, and the ground. Not only do your tires need to provide traction for forward progress, but they also give you control when stopping, and steering. In many types of terrain, you won’t get 5 feet without off-road tires. Street tires will get packed with mud or just spin in the sand without getting traction. Tires also need to be durable enough to resist getting punctures, or having the tread sliced to bits on the rocks. No matter how good your tires are, eventually you may still get a flat so make sure you have a good spare, and repair tools for fixing punctures. Getting double flats is not uncommon as you can hit the same impediment with more than one tire. Having a single spare tire won’t always solve your problem. There is a good reason why off road tires are almost always the first modification done. Good tires will make a huge difference in your ability to have fun in the dirt. 

In  many types of terrain, you wont get 5 feet without off-road tires…

3. First Aid Kit

When you think of first aid, many think bandages, and tape, but you also need to consider your vehicle’s requirements. You should have spare parts on board to fix common issues that regularly arise. Typical parts to carry are belts, hoses, fluids, fuses, and the tools needed to make repairs. Do some research on your vehicle to find out what fails over time, and what the repair job requires. I had a custom suspension on my prerunner that took some special bolts. I put together my own kit that had a new replacement bolt for every one used on my suspension. Over time your kit will grow to include all types of spares as you learn from experience. 

Once your vehicle has everything it needs to stay healthy, you can focus on passengers. There is a big difference between a simple first aid kit, and one that is capable of handling severe trauma. If a medical emergency takes place, chances are everyone will be stressed. Having a serious medical kit will not only be a huge benefit in treating the patient, but it will also give you solutions that will keep everyone calm. Number one is having enough materials to stop bleeding as it is an immediate problem. You will also need pain medications like aspirin or ibuprofen. Some antihistamine is crucial for swelling or bug bites, and disinfectant or antibacterial ointment is always good to have. If you are on medication, make sure you have more than what you need for your trip in case you get delayed. A good thing to do is consult your doctor. They will know what types of medications, and implements are best to have on hand. 

4. Navigation

We all go overlanding in the first place to get away from everything, but it’s also important to get back again; you need to learn how to navigate. Too many people simply rely on electronic devices for navigation. They are nice, and give us tons of useful tools when they work. When they don’t, you can get in a lot of trouble. It’s so easy to throw a map in your truck of the places you’re going to visit. That way if your electronic device fails for any reason, you will be able to figure out where to go. One of the handiest maps to bring is a topographic, or topo map as many call it. The topo map shows the contour of the terrain. It has lines that are based on elevation. Lines close together mean the terrain is steep. Open areas with few lines are mostly flat. The topo map is also great for locating landmarks. If you see a high elevation, or big depression, you will be able to verify your position according to what you see. It’s also good to know what direction you are heading. This can be easy in wide open spaces by watching the sun. In dense forests or canyons it can be nearly impossible. Don’t trust the old saying that moss only gathers on north facing surfaces; nature is not absolute. Most people just use a compass. Get one, and learn how to use it. 

5. Recovery Gear

Certain things are a given when going off road; like getting stuck. You should always have a few items needed to get un-stuck. First is a shovel. I once slide into a snowbank and had to dig myself out with my license plate. Now I always have a shovel. You will also need a good tow strap, and strong recovery points on your vehicle. With today’s plastic clad vehicles, it can be a challenge to find someplace to attach a rope. Make sure you have something on the front, and rear. If you travel alone, you probably need a winch, and all the paraphernalia that goes along with one. The traction boards that are everywhere are also very handy for self-extraction. High lift jacks are very popular, but I wonder if they ever get used on some rigs because you need strong lifting points with plenty of clearance. If you don’t have beefy bumpers or sliders, they are almost useless. 

Certain things are a given when going off road; like getting stuck…

This list just covers the basics, and admittedly many may have different needs, and desires. The bottom line is to be able to get where you’re going, and back, while keeping everyone healthy, and happy along the way.   

Canyon Carving on a Budget

Top Tips for Making the Most Out of Your Sunday Drive

Let’s get this out of the way right from the beginning: We do not condone operation of a motor vehicle on public roads in an unsafe manner, or the violation of traffic laws. Streets are not a racetrack or dragstrip, and bad things can and do happen with greater frequency and more severe negative outcomes as the result of that kind of behavior.

With that said, however, we understand that one of the major joys of having a car that’s fun to drive is driving it in fun ways, and a relaxing, yet spirited romp down a challenging road is a fine way to spend a Sunday morning. A car that doesn’t get driven is like a stuffed lion in the natural history museum instead of running free in its natural habitat. 

Keeping all that in mind, we’ve come up with a short list of ways to get the most out of your safe, socially-responsible leisure time behind the wheel at minimum cost. It’s not comprehensive, but it is all born from experience, and sometimes painfully and expensively learned experience at that. 

A car that doesn’t get driven is like a stuffed lion in the natural history museum instead of running free in its natural habitat…

Mechanical Mods

Tires

We’ve said this before, and we’ll say it again – nothing affects your car’s performance (acceleration, braking, and cornering) more than the four small places where tread meets asphalt. Even stock wheels can benefit from upgraded tires biased toward performance, and the key thing to look for here isn’t necessarily what DOT-approved rubber is the latest and greatest in terms of maximum grip. Instead, you want a tire with approachable limits and forgiving characteristics that provide feedback with plenty of traction left in reserve before breaking free. On a racetrack, another 0.1g might be worth dealing with razor-edged traction, but out in the world, there aren’t many safe runoff areas or gravel traps to let you find out where the limit is without having a really bad day. When choosing tires, the manufacturers’ marketing materials may help a little bit, but the best bet is to look to owners’ groups for your make and model so that you can leverage the experience of others.

Brake Pads

When people discuss brake mods, the talk almost always is about big, slotted rotors and six-piston calipers peeking out of large-diameter aftermarket wheels. But like tires, brake pads are another routine consumable that you will have to replace on a regular basis anyway, and spending a little bit of extra money and a few minutes researching your options will pay huge dividends. Even stock calipers and rotors can be inexpensively upgraded with a change to a performance pad compound, and there are multiple companies making drop-in replacements for pretty much every interesting car built in the last 30 years. Characteristics like cold coefficient of friction, initial “bite,” and resistance to fade are all customizable with off-the-shelf pads using different friction material. For optimum results, new stock or stock-replacement rotors properly bedded in using the pad manufacturer’s instructions are the way to go. But even if you forego replacing rotors and just clean and scuff the still-serviceable discs you have now, it will make a world of difference in brake performance.

An honorable mention here goes to flushing the brake system with new fluid, a proper bleed job, and even an upgrade to inexpensive but still DOT-approved braided stainless brake lines that won’t balloon under pressure to replace the worn out factory rubber ones.

Seat Belts

Here’s another mod that’s relatively inexpensive but pays big. Proper restraints, fastened and adjusted correctly, eliminate the steering wheel isometrics and knee-wedging that we end up doing unconsciously to remain in position during cornering and braking. Factory seatbelts are designed for comfort (mostly to increase usage) and to work as part of the supplemental restraint system in a crash, with belt pre-tensioners, precise attachment point geometry, and even sections of belt designed to stretch or extend via sacrificial stitching. None of this actually helps you prior to the rapid unplanned deceleration, however. Options here include SFI-style racing harnesses in 4 or 5 point configurations, and aftermarket belts designed specifically for the street, some of which even have DOT approval. Keep in mind, however, that just like removing and replacing a factory airbag-equipped steering wheel, you are defeating a safety device and the potential consequences are on you and you alone.

Here’s a completely free “mod” for cars with seatbelts that have a solid connection at the base of the B-pillar and a belt that passes through a slotted buckle before continuing to a retractor at the shoulder: Push yourself firmly back into the seat in the position you want to be in, run the waist part of the belt across your body while taking out any slack, and put a twist in the belt before clicking the buckle into place. It may take a few tries to get it the way you want it, but ‘free’ is the best price of all, and a snug fit across the waist will get you some of the advantages of costly race harnesses in terms of resisting side g loads with no real downside in safety. 

Sway Bars and Bushings

Sure, you might have a full set of double-adjustable coilovers on your wish list, but in terms of making a difference you can really feel, replacing the worn-out bushings in your factory anti-roll bar mounts and end links is incredibly cheap and rewarding. If you can stretch your budget just a little bit, stiffer bars (or even adding a rear bar to a car not factory equipped with one) will also radically improve handling. The best part is that as long as you stick with polyurethane bushings and don’t make the mistake of running solid bearings and heim joints on the street, it’s another mod with no downside to your car’s practicality for daily driving. Just be aware that factory anti-roll bars are calibrated to provide understeer at the limit on purpose, and making wholesale changes with roll stiffness can do unpleasant things to even the tamest car’s cornering balance. Pay attention to what the bar manufacturer recommends to steer clear (pun intended) of this issue. 

Preparation Matters

The Driver Mod

What’s something that only costs a modest amount, never wears out, and will make any car you drive for the rest of your life quicker? The legendary “driver mod,” of course! While this is often talked about in the context of a weekend bombing around the track at a race driving school, it doesn’t have to be that complicated and expensive if you live within reasonable distance of a local autocross venue. The Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) is probably the best-known national group that organizes these parking lot events, but there are plenty of other opportunities as well, from big car shows to brand-specific clubs. For a few bucks, you’ll get to test yourself and your car in a controlled environment and learn where the limits are without worrying about exceeding them. Many events will even provide experienced drivers to coach first-timers from the passenger seat, and if you really want a humbling experience, switch places and let them show you just how much faster your car is with somebody behind the wheel who really knows what they are doing.

Preflight Check

Here’s another not-mod that you really shouldn’t skip, for obvious reasons. Before you head out to the twisties, take just a moment to make sure your fluid levels are ok, nothing’s coming out from where it shouldn’t be, tire pressures are correct, and all the random junk in your back seat is left at home just in case. Grab the top of each of your front tires (or as close to it as you can, for those with sick stance and zero fender gap) and give them a nice hard wiggle to check for wheel bearings ready to give out or slop in the steering rack. Yes, it sucks to have to cancel your weekend fun because there’s something that needs attention, but it sucks a lot less than dropping a ball joint mid-corner and having to pay for a tow from way out in the boonies. 

Pre-run It

Even if the road is one you’ve driven a thousand times before, and you know every apex and straight, conditions change. While it might not be very exciting, prerunning your route at a leisurely pace before returning along it at a more spirited clip will let you find things like oil, coolant, water, rock slides, and even the occasional car on its roof (obviously driven by somebody who hasn’t read this article) with plenty of room to avoid them. It goes without saying that this is also a good way to gauge the current law enforcement level of interest on that road as well. More importantly though, this will significantly reduce the chance that you’ll yeet yourself off a cliff and into the afterlife because you only discovered an obstacle or puddle of oil once you got up close and personal with it. 

It goes without saying that this is also a good way to gauge the current law enforcement level of interest on that road as well…

We’ll end with one last thought – keeping a low profile and being respectful of other road users is extremely important. Nobody likes having a car in a ditch in front of their house every weekend, and loud exhausts, screeching tires, and aggressive driving in normal traffic lead to increased traffic enforcement or even nastiness like rumble strips and speed bumps. Enjoy the drive, but don’t be the reason things get ruined for everyone else.

The Big Squeeze: High Compression vs. Low Compression

One of the defining characteristics of an engine is the compression ratio, which in simple terms is a comparison between how much volume there is inside the cylinder when the piston is at its highest and lowest points (don’t get me started on Wankel rotaries – they’re basically witchcraft). Compression ratio interacts with a lot of other factors to produce power, and can be changed to some extent by selecting different components for the same basic engine during the build. To add another plot twist, the mathematically-calculated static compression of a particular combination can differ significantly from the engine’s dynamic compression in operation, thanks to sophisticated intake and exhaust design, forced induction, or even EGR (exhaust gas recirculation). 

A Real World Application for High School Geometry

To start calculation compression ratio, you need to know an individual cylinder’s displacement. This is the area of the cylinder multiplied by the length of the crank stroke. But you’re not done yet, because you also have to know how much space there is in the cylinder head with the piston all the way up as well. The difference between the maximum volume with the piston at bottom dead center and the minimum volume at the top is the compression ratio. This is, of course, a huge over-simplification, but it will give you an idea of what a number like “9.5:1” means – there is 9.5 times more volume inside the cylinder at BDC than there is at TDC.

Designs with long crank strokes relative to their bore diameters tend to also have high compression ratios. Diesel engines, which rely on very high compression to ignite the fuel and air mixture, are a typical example. But there are other factors that have a major impact on compression ratio. The design of the cylinder head’s combustion chamber is a big player here, as the smaller volume it incorporates, the higher the CR will be. Another significant way to alter compression ratio is through piston design – a ‘dished’ piston will have lower compression than a flat one, all other things being equal, and a domed one will have higher compression. Even things like the thickness of the gasket between the head and the block and whether the valves are dished will affect compression ratio.

Though it’s possible to math most of this out with a little applied geometry (or plug the appropriate numbers into an online calculator like a lazy internet tech writer would), the volume numbers for the piston and the cylinder head have to be actually measured, if they’ve been altered in any way from how the manufacturer delivered them. A head that has been “decked” by having material removed from the surface that contacts the block will have a higher static compression than an unaltered head, and pistons can be milled to lower compression, either on purpose or as a side effect of cutting pockets for larger diameter valves. While measuring actual piston dish/dome volume is kind of a pain, doing the same for a combustion chamber is actually quite easy, only requiring a measuring device with accurate markings in cubic centimeters, a piece of clear plastic with a hole drilled in it, some tinted water, and a bit of grease to seal the valves and where the plastic covers the combustion chamber. 

Compression Consequences

Now that we’re solid on what static compression ratio is, let’s take a moment to discuss why it’s important. In general terms, high compression (which is a relative term itself) is desirable because it enables more power production. Each cylinder-full of air/fuel mixture will have more room to expand and do work, making the engine more efficient. As mentioned before, diesel engines take advantage of very high compression to operate very efficiently compared to gasoline engines. But the same thing that makes diesels work in the first place – compression ignition – is also a big limiting factor for how much compression ratio a gas-powered engine will safely tolerate. 

In general terms, high compression (which is a relative term itself) is desirable because it enables more power production. Each cylinder-full of air/fuel mixture will have more room to expand and do work, making the engine more efficient…

120 or so years ago at the dawn of the automobile, engines were typically very low-compression compared to modern designs. The Ford Model T had a 2.9 liter inline four cylinder engine that produced a whopping 20 horsepower with a compression ratio of just 3.98 to 1. While the power output wasn’t all that thrilling, the low compression was a necessity during that time period when fuel was of uncertain quality and highly variable octane rating (we’ll get to more on that in just a minute).

As oil companies began to create standards for pump gas, compression rose to take advantage of better fuel, and the Second World War really turned up the wick on engine design. Because of ‘high test’ fuel, naturally aspirated engines for trucks, tanks, and especially aircraft became lighter and more powerful, and turbo and supercharged engines were finally practical. Even so, after the war when the first small block Chevy V8 engines were introduced in 1955, they ran compression ratios as low as 8.2:1 for durability. 

No-Knock Entry

The limiting factor on how much compression an engine can run is the knock-resistance of the fuel, commonly referred to as the octane rating. It gets its name based on a comparison of how hard it is to ignite relative to pure octane, a specific hydrocarbon fuel – gasoline rated at 93 octane in a particular test is easier, while 100 is comparable and 110 is more difficult. You’ll sometimes hear people say that what happens inside a cylinder is an “explosion” but if that’s what is happening, something has gone terribly wrong. It’s actually a ‘deflagration’ – rapid, but controlled burning. When fuel is compressed too much, it will spontaneously ignite and lead to preignition, detonation, or simply knock. Whatever you call it, it has the potential to very quickly melt spark plug electrodes, burn holes in piston tops, break the ring lands off the sides of the piston, and push out head gaskets. None of these are desirable outcomes

The limiting factor on how much compression an engine can run is the knock-resistance of the fuel, commonly referred to as the octane rating…

It’s possible to compensate to a degree for lower-octane fuel by running less ignition timing, but that’s a compromise at best. Because it takes a non-zero amount of time for an engine to completely burn a cylinder of fuel, all but the lowest-RPM designs incorporate some amount of ignition advance, firing the spark plug before the piston reaches top dead center on the compression stroke. As the flame front moves away from the spark plug towards the edges of the combustion chamber, it compresses the remaining unburned fuel and air, and if it squeezes it too hard, it can spontaneously and nearly instantly ignite instead of a smooth burn. This is one example of the dynamic compression we mentioned earlier.

Every engine has an ignition timing “sweet spot” that produces the best power when it is fed fuel with sufficient knock resistance, but it can run successfully, though with lower performance, if the ignition timing is retarded to later in the compression stroke to keep peak pressure in the cylinder below the knock threshold. You’ll often see modern vehicles with manuals that advise “Premium fuel preferred – 87 octane minimum” because they have sensors that listen for knock and pull out timing if they’re fed Regular instead of Premium. They’ll make more power on high octane fuel not because the gas is more powerful, but because they can operate at their designed ignition timing settings.

VE Made EZ

Another source of increased dynamic compression comes from an engine’s volumetric efficiency, which is a way of expressing how completely the cylinder fills with a fresh charge of air and fuel on the intake stroke. A 500cc single cylinder engine that ingests exactly 500 cubic centimeters of air per cycle is running at 100% VE, for example. Now, if you were raised to respect the laws of thermodynamics, you’re probably saying, “no mechanical system is 100 percent efficient!” and you are absolutely right, but there’s an interesting caveat. While the restrictions posed by the intake tract do indeed cause naturally-aspirated engines to normally operate below 100% VE, very clever engineering can allow an all-motor design to achieve over 100 percent under certain specific operating conditions.

This is possible because air, while not being very dense, does have mass, and moving mass has inertia. Careful design of the intake and exhaust manifolds, combined with specific valve timing, can take advantage of positive and negative pressure pulses reflected through the system in a narrow RPM range to ‘internally supercharge’ the engine and push VE over 100%. Though this was once confined to racing powerplants, increasingly sophisticated factory designs with variable valve timing and lift and variable intake geometry have made this effect worthwhile for mass production.

The net result of pushing VE over 100 percent is that the total compression ratio the engine experiences can be higher than the calculated static CR. Taken to the extreme, adding boost in the form of turbocharging or supercharging throws even more dynamic compression into the mix. Careful tradeoffs have to be made with forced induction engines to balance out the effect of boost with reduced static compression in order to keep detonation at bay – the efficiency lost by running lower compression ratios is more than offset by the increased power offered by intake pressurization. 

Approaching the Limit

Modern engine designs have seen compression ratio increased across the board, even for factory forced induction, and this is largely thanks to a much better understanding of what happens inside the combustion chamber during a power stroke. One look at a current engine’s piston and combustion chamber design will show you just how far technology has come from the days when the two-valve hemi head, with its combustion space shaped like half an orange peel, was the state of the art. Features like ‘squish bands,’ swirl-inducing peaks and valleys, and stratified charge strategies allow today’s engines to run compression ratios that would make those of just 20 years ago go ‘pop’ on the very same fuel. By figuring out what it takes to create a margin of safety for the knock threshold but still increase compression ratio, engineers continue to squeeze (pun intended) more and more out of every cubic inch of displacement. 

The Differential Difference

Adding the Right Traction to Your 4WD Truck

Before we dive right into how to turn up your truck’s traction ability, let’s first ponder a question that should be answered honestly. How do you anticipate driving your truck? Will it spend most of its time on the road, and will the off-roading you do plan on doing be mostly on gravel or compacted dirt? Will you be doing any driving on icy, snowy or wet conditions on pretty advanced off-road terrain? Do you anticipate driving through trails where very uneven ground, rocks and other obstacles and holes will be present? Taking these questions into consideration will greatly impact your decision-making when looking to upgrade your truck’s differential system(s). 

If you answered ‘yes’ to the first question above—congratulations! If you plan on sticking to mostly streets and highways or surfaces that are hard but not technically paved stretches of land, you really don’t have to worry about messing with your truck’s factory-equipped open differential, which is great. We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is. 

We understand the temptation to buy new parts is hard to fight off sometimes, but consider this a win and save yourself some time and money, and enjoy your truck as-is…

For those who answered ‘yes’ to the second and/or third questions with the anticipation of driving through surfaces impacted by inclement weather that also feature more severe terrain, then you might want to consider shopping around for limited-slip or locking differentials. There are plenty out there to choose from, and it is best to still keep your personal driving scenario in mind when wading through these waters. 

Now, also keep in mind that whichever type of traction-adding components you choose will have a direct effect on different types of driving, wherein lies the importance of staying true to what you will actually be using your truck for. Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely. 

Bragging about having the latest, greatest, most expensive performance gadget on the market won’t do you a lick of good if it’s not used correctly, so do pay attention and choose wisely…

Most light off-road duty adventures will be greatly improved with a rear limited slip differential, or better yet both a rear and front limited slip. These are the most widely used and common types of diffs since they cover such a wide application spectrum. What the limited slip does is shift a percentage of the torque to the wheel that has the most traction while limiting the slip on the wheel experiencing the least amount of traction (the one that is stuck in the air or free spinning on a patch of black ice). Torque is not always balanced between the wheels here, which will allow your truck to power through less than ideal surface situations with less of a chance of getting stuck. Icy, wet or uneven ground will pose less of a threat with the limited slip differential, so if you plan on encountering any of these foes on a regular basis, this traction-adding upgrade will definitely be money well spent. 

A locking differential will take your rig further than any limited slip setup can—no question. Now, do you absolutely, positively need to install a locker? Well, that all depends on if you want the power of a true 4×4, which means that all four wheels are getting power to the ground. Anything less than that might very well leave you stranded when attempting to take on some serious mud pits or extremely rough country. If you still plan on driving your truck on regular surface streets when you’re done on the trail, you’ll want to look into selectable lockers specifically. This will allow your truck to fire on all 4 wheels while off-roading, while still having the ability to flip back to an open or standard (stock) diff configuration with the flip of a switch. You’ll be able to beat the piss out of it off road, and still actually be able to drive it comfortably on surface streets just like normal. 

Within the realms of limited slip and locking differentials are other options to consider, naturally. There isn’t one system out there that can meet the demand of every driver of every truck for all conditions, so don’t get your hopes up. If you know and understand exactly what you’re asking of your truck, however, then you should already have a better idea of what side of the traction fence you’ll need to invest time and money into. The rest is merely addressing the details of personal preferences in order to fine-tune your driving experience. 

Strange Custom Cars at SEMA

Tank Treads, Fabricated Bodies, and Unique Paint Jobs

These custom cars at SEMA this year really push the limits on what it means to have a modified car. SEMA is a show which primarily focuses on aftermarket performance and cosmetic modifications on cars, and the companies who make them. But among the supercars, tuners, truck, and muscle you get some very creative, and strange creations from some innovative and possibly mentally unstable builders. These guys bring a unique perspective, and love them or hate them, they definitely set the bar for modifications.

These are our best and strangest custom cars we saw at SEMA this year in Las Vegas.

First up we saw a couple of snow track oddities that were not the Ford Bronco. The riveted one being a Custom Bug Out Jeep Gladiator built by Expedition Vehicle Outfitters with custom metalwork done to it. If one of the treads somehow falls off they have a spare Milestar Patagonia Tire attached to the back of the vehicle as well, just in case.

We also saw this Humvee with snow treads, but this one had a giant Battleship horn attached to it by ProdigyTV on youtube.

Artist Rocketbyz, showed off this Pikes Peak ready Audi Quattro with his signature neon paint splatter paint job. Reminiscent of all the previous art cars from the past.

Chevy Revealed a custom desert Off-Road concept truck called the Chevy Beast based off the Silverado platform. It has 5 link suspension, Four wheel drive and a body that looks like its built for the UNSC.

Next Up we have a couple of Custom Trucks, one low one hight. The blue one is a Hodson JRT10 Truck with a Jeep Wagoneer front end and a Viper V10 engine.

This one is a 6×6 C10 with 1000hp and a wing instead of a truck-bed built by Deberti.

Top 10 Tools Every Off-Roader Should Carry

Tools are something that make everyday life possible. They come in a full range from “must haves” to “would be nice.” Some people would argue that all you need is a credit card, and a satellite phone. Most of us would rather help ourselves than call for help. The better your tools, the easier difficult tasks can become; especially when working on vehicles. Even simple tasks can become impossible if you don’t have the right tools. So what do you need as an off-roader? Let’s take a look at the basics. 

Most of us would rather help ourselves than call for help…

1. Socket Wrench

Flat tires happen. One of the most often required, and useful tools you can carry is a wrench that can remove or replace lug nuts. There are many options available from a straight breaker bar, to the latest battery powered impact guns that are on the market. If you can’t remove a wheel, a simple predicament can leave you stranded. It’s also wise to carry several different sizes of sockets so you can have what you need when the time comes.

2. A Jack

This one goes with the lug wrench; a good jack. There are countless uses for a lifting device when you go in the dirt. They are needed to change flat tires, get unstuck, or fixing bent tie rods or suspension links. High-lift jacks are popular because they can do several tasks. Just make sure you know how to use it, and have good jacking points on your vehicle. If you don’t have solid jacking points that mounts to the frame, and also allow clearance around the body panels, you won’t even be able to use one. Good jacking points are heavy duty bumpers, sliders, and the wheel lifting straps available. Other options are manual scissor jacks, and hydraulic floor jacks. If you use a hydraulic floor jack, you will need something to place it on so it doesn’t sink into the dirt. A piece of plywood works, or you can get bolt on bases for this, or even specially made jacks.

3. Shovel

When you go off-road, you will get stuck; it’s inevitable. When you are stuck, it’s because you are impeded by something. That something is either dirt, mud, sand, rocks or snow. You don’t want to be removing any of that by hand. I learned my lesson when I went for a quick little drive in my CJ-7, and slid into a snow bank. I had to remove my license plate to use as a shovel. With a real shovel, I would have been done in 20 minutes. Instead it took hours. A shovel can be used for many other things as well; putting out camp fires, trail repairs, burying a tire for an anchor point, etc. 

4. Jumper Cables

Like flat tires, dead batteries happen a lot. A jump start from or to another vehicle only takes a second if you have cables. If you don’t have them, your options are never good. You should not scrimp when it comes to your jumper cables. There are plenty of cheap cables out there that are not up to the task. Get some good heavy duty cables with copper wire, not aluminum. A good set will last you for years, and be reliable when you need them. Just don’t loan the out. 

5. Bailing Wire and/or Zip Ties

We are hard on our vehicles when we go off road. Things break, they come loose, and they get damaged. You need something that will hold things together until you can make permanent repairs. Zip ties are great, but they fall short when you need to hold up anything that gets hot like exhaust or brakes. Bailing wire is pliable enough to wrap around things, and it fits through bolt holes easily. When you double it up, it’s very strong. 

6. Vise Grips

Vise grips are a valuable tool because they perform many tasks. If you have a damaged bolt or are missing the correct size wrench or socket, vise grips will work. They clamp tight enough to hold things together securely. They can also be used for crimping electrical connectors, or capping brake lines. You can even get special vise grips with smooth jaws for crimping off fuel or brake lines without damaging them.

7. Tow Ropes and Ratchet Straps

Many of us carry a box filled with different tow ropes, and ratchet straps. Tow ropes are for pulling another vehicle. Ratchet straps are for securing things. Chains should be avoided. Chains are heavy for one thing, and they don’t give. Tow ropes are designed to stretch, and don’t release as much energy when they break so they are much safer. Don’t forget to also throw a tree saver strap in your box. Ratchet straps are useful for securing every type of loads. They can be used to hold down a spare tire, or secure a camper in the bed of your truck in an emergency. They are a very useful tool.

8. Fire Extinguisher

I have personally never needed a fire extinguisher, but have saved many people who did. This is one tool that you hope you will never need, but is a must have to carry. You also need to know how to care for your extinguisher. The types that have dry powder in them can settle over time. When you need them, the powder can be clumped in the bottom, and not discharge properly. Make it a habit to inspect your extinguisher before you go out to make sure it’s still charged, and give it a little shake to keep the contents dispersed.

9. A Tarp

A tarp is another item that is handy to have because it has multiple uses. We can’t always control where our vehicle breaks down, or where we will be working on it. Part of being safe in the outdoors is keeping your body free from injury. You only need to experience laying in cholla cactus spikes, sharp rocks, or hot pavement once to realize the necessity of having a good tarp to lie on. It can also be used to keep you dry in the rain, or cool in the sun. You can drape it over your winch line to absorb the energy if it breaks. You can carry water with it. You can use it to wrap up dirty items that have to go inside your vehicle. How many of you have slept inside your truck bed with a shredded tire next to you? A tarp is handy for many things.

10. A Buddy

Two minds are better than one, but so are two trucks, two sets of tools, two jacks, you name it. Traveling alone is something we all do out of necessity, but when it comes to being prepared off-road, you can’t beat having someone else along. When something breaks down, or you experience some other setback, it’s always good to have someone else to throw ideas around, help out with repairs, or just give you a sense of calm that everything will work out. They are also great for re-telling the stories of your great trail fixes and ingenuity used to get back home.   

Best Modified Supercars at SEMA

Widebody Corvettes, Lowered Ferraris, and Amazing Lamborghinis

These mid engined supercars were built to be fast, but some builders at SEMA this year decided that they did not look cool enough. Widebody, air suspension, big wings and aero, three-piece wheels and of course fancy paint makes these stand out from their stock counterparts. Whether you are a purist or prefer modified cars, this set of cars we saw will definitely stun you.

With the new Corvette mid engined propelling the brand into supercar territory, many companies have jumped on the opportunity to transform the corvette body into something more stunning. Many jaw dropping wide body corvettes were on display here in Las Vegas.

If we raise our budget by a lot we get to see this cool Mint green Ferrari 488 that has been lowered, put on some nice white wheels and subjected to downforce. Brought to us by DNA Motoring.

Also brought to us by DNA Motoring is this AMG GT that looks like its ready for a track day and a clean car show at the same time.

FInally we have a couple Lambo’s that have gotten the treatment as well. This is youtuber TJ Hunt’s British Racing Green Lamborghini Huracan with a 1016 Widebody kit and sitting on Gold HRE wheels.

Classic V8 Muscle Cars

Clean and Low Restomods at SEMA 2021

Muscle cars and Hot Rods have been the backbone of SEMA since the beginning. Year after year not only do they show up, they are some of the most immaculate and classiest builds the 2021 SEMA Show has to offer. As we were perusing the show floor, we happened to see some beautiful examples. Lets take a peek at what V8s are rumbling around SEMA. (none probably, we’d be surprised if anything actually ran at SEMA)

Right off the bat are a couple of Chevelles so clean and modded you can barely recognize them!

Next we have this gorgeous blue Fastback Mustang and this slick Camaro. Both retain that classic styling but have opted for much more modern trim pieces, bringing these old geezers into the 21st Century.

Next up we have a couple of Old Chevy Trucks done in two completely different finishes. One With a nice slick green paint job that highlights those 50s body lines.

The other finished in a patina paint so strong it looks like it was pulled out of a lake! But there probably isn’t a spec of rust on this Apache.

Update: The owner of the build reached out to us and confirmed that this Apache is indeed 100% real patina.

“My Apache literally burned to the ground in the 2018 NorCal Paradise Fire and was on live tv doing so […] No rattle can patina, pure fire, then rain.  […] It was important for me to build this ride so people wouldn’t forget the devastation of that fire and when they see the truck, they know something survived.”Jason Fonte

Rare JDM Cars at the 2021 SEMA SHOW

Million Dollar Skyline GTRs, Special RX7s, and Widebody Nissan Zs in Las Vegas

Spotting a Nissan or a Toyota is something you can do in your grocery store parking lot, but the ones you find at the SEMA Show are a little bit more special. Actually, that is an understatement, these are some of the most sought after JDM cars and some of the most popular styles in the Tuner scene. In terms of JDM and Tuner cars there is all sorts of stuff at SEMA this year, some of which you will never see, and others that you will probably see on retail very soon, with a couple only being JDM inspired. Come check out these JDM gems that we’ve spotted at SEMA 2021!

We never were sold any skylines in the US until Infiniti G35, and so to say that they are rare here is an understatement, especially for these two GTRs. This is the first R33 GTR 400R to come to the US and only 44 400Rs ever made. Named 400R because of its 400hp output, this was the rarest and craziest Skyline to come from the factory. Specifically this is a 400R in Sonic Silver making it a one of 5 ever made. Brought out by Top Rank Imports, this Skyline definitely stole the show

Vehicle: Nissan Skyline GTR R33 400R Sonic SilverThe other one is a Midnight Purple II V Spec GTR which cost about the same as Lamborghinis, one of the rarest color combos and trim packages for the R34 GTR.

We also spotted this Origin Widebody S14 Kouki with a 2JZ VVti Stuffed in it. It is hard to look past those stunning custom headlights though, but you’ll probably be staring at the tail lights of this thing if you caught it on the street.

You know the brand new GR 86/ BRZ? HKS is already making a new exhaust system so that you can sputter and bang your boxer as quickly as possible.

We also Saw this yellow RX7 from Fortune Auto, sporting a full RE Amemiya kit with the aero headlights.

Check out this S30 Widebody Z from Extreme wraps. It might look different from a standard 240Z or 260Z because of the slicker aero front end, referred to as a G Nose.

Finally here’s a couple BMWs that have adopted a lot a of the JDM tuner style and incorporated them into their Bavarian Builds.

Best New Ford Bronco Performance Parts at the SEMA Show

Upgraded, Modified, and Off-Road Ready Broncos

After a couple decades, a few car chases and a whole lot of horsing around, the Ford Bronco is back for 2021! Well, it has been back for a minute now, but after a year we’re all trying to forget, we’ll call SEMA 2021 the official year of the new Bronco.

This year’s SEMA we get to really see what companies have come up with to further develop performance parts for the new Bronco Platform. Turning the Ford Bronco into a very capable machine is not a new concept, in fact it has been the name of the game since the Bronco first came out in 1965. Over the years we’ve seen time and time again that the Bronco is not just a practical suburban cruiser, with some upgrades the Bronco becomes an off-roading monster.

Here’s a sampling of some of our favorites at SEMA with some of the most insane versions coming from Ford themselves!

FIrst off is this Rhino Rack Bronco build by Doetsch Off-Road, fitted with all of the camping luxuries that you can think of! Upgraded Bumpers with LED lights, custom fenders from ADV Advanced Fiberglass Concepts to fit those Big tires on Fifteen52wheels, an extendable cover, and to Top it off, a Canoe!

We also spotted this Black Diamond Bronco from Havoc Off Road, upgraded with bead lock wheels, custom Winch Compatible front bumper, an orange skid plate, and some custom metal side steps to get you in this lifted Bronco.

Don’t like mountains? How about the Desert instead! Look at these race variants also from Ford. These have so many Custom parts that It would be easier just to list what isn’t changed.

Do you wan’t a tank but have a Family too? Well, Ford put some treads on this Bronco, so that you can simply avoid the lines at the Ski Lift.

Layin’ Frame

Some Basics On Slamming Your Ride

So you want to go low, huh? Ok, well there’s “just a few inches” low and then there’s “pavement pounding” low. Both are cool and have their place on certain vehicles, and while a modest drop in suspension does go a long way in terms of appearance, nothing compares to laying your car or truck out on the ground. Granted, there is quite a lot more to take into consideration if you’re interested in the latter option, but if you’re serious about taking your daily or show vehicle to the next level, it can be done, no matter what you’re driving. 

Asses the Situation

All vehicles are different, which means that the modification process to get said vehicle on the ground varies as well, as does the list of parts needed. Clearance plays a big role, especially with modern cars. With only so much available space at the front and rear, you may just have to get creative and pay close attention to tire selection as well as important wheel specs (width, offset, etc.). Every half of an inch counts, so do be sure to examine just which parts and pieces will need to be trimmed, relocated or cut out altogether in order to clear a path for adequate suspension travel. Classic cars in general have lots more room to work with at both ends, so take that in mind when deciding how to move forward with your project. 

Trucks, on the other hand have much more clearance space to play with at the rear. With only a bed floor standing in the way of axle and chassis clearance, there are just so many more options. Chopping up the bed is a necessity when ‘bagging a truck, with the easiest solution being to either cut out a portion of the floor that’s in the way, essentially. From there, you’ll have to decide to leave the area exposed, build a covered “bridge” or raise the entire floor up to keep a “stock” appearance. There are lots of ways to get the rear down on the ground with a truck, which makes this particular scenario mighty interesting. 

Equipment

If you’ve never ‘bagged any of your vehicles before, there are a few key components you’ll have to familiarize yourself with while prepping your ride for lower lows. Assuming that you will be ‘bagging your car or truck since hydraulic setups aren’t all too common these days (but they are out there), the air system is only as complicated as you make it. Air management systems have come a long way since the days of having to individually piece every single component out when building an entire air setup. 

The airbag itself is an essential component of the system, but it is not the most important (or even the most expensive). You’re going to find out quick that quality air management systems are worth every buck, as many of them have all the system’s ECU, valve manifold, and pressure and height control (in some premium packages) all built right into a small and convenient, easy-to-mount unit. From there, you’ll need to select an air compressor (or two) to keep the system supplied with enough air at all times. Figuring out air line plumbing can be a tedious process, but one that can still allow for creativity. Once everything is wired up and checked for problems, accessing this orchestration of components is made simple though a programmable controller, or if equipped, an app installed on your phone. 

The airbag itself is an essential component of the system, but it is not the most important (or even the most expensive)…

While that does sound like quite a bit to worry about, it is—to an extent. There used to be much more involved, but there are lots of plug-n-play type units that helps simplify installation. 

Alterations

Cutting and altering the chassis and other factory components (depending on the vehicle) is essential when it comes to “laying frame”. While it’s a big step to take, it’s important to not take these steps lightly, and ensure that an experienced person take the lead, even when it comes to simple rear frame notches. Using a plasma cutter, cut wheel and drill all require some know-how to deliver the best results (which includes your safety). Always remember the golden rule when working with these tools—measure twice and cut only once!

Half and Full Frame Packages

A lot of classic muscle car and truck projects have the luxury of a wide selection of well-crafted front, back and full chassis systems on the aftermarket. These take a lot of guesswork out of building the best air ride setup possible. Since the existing frame on vehicles of a certain age can be “iffy” at best, selecting these options could really come in clutch. These types of setups do offer far more than the ability to go up and down, as optimum ride quality is the ultimate objective with these, which will only make your project better in the long run. These kits do run on the high side when it comes to suspension components, but they are definitely worth the dough. 

‘Bagging your ride is a big step, that’s for sure, but once it’s done and all the kinks are worked out, it really is worth the effort. Nothing gets more attention on the road than a car or truck that can change the height of their ride with a simple push of a button. Even at rest, there’s nothing quite as cool as a vehicle resting on the ground with the wheels and tires tucked far into the fenders. Your ride will definitely catch all the attention in the parking lots at work, at the grocery store, as well as at any car show you take it to. 

Nothing gets more attention on the road than a car or truck that can change the height of their ride with a simple push of a button…

Don’t fall into the trap of investing only the minimal amounts of money and time when slamming your vehicle. You definitely get what you pay for as far as parts and components go, and there is no such thing as “cheap” quality labor (unless you’re doing the work or have a friend or relative willing to help out).

Don’t Call It a Comeback:
The Resurgence of the Compact Truck

By “compact” truck, we really are discussing the modern, smaller-than-full-size pickup that is commonly referred to as a “midsize” model. Long gone are the days of the true mini-truck, so if you’re thinking those are making another appearance at new dealer lots, keep dreaming. The classic S-10, Ranger, Tacoma, Hardbody trucks are machines of a past generation. They had a great run, and are great projects if you can get your hands on a good specimen, which are still readily available. “Mini” sized price tags are also a thing of the past, as today’s compact/midsize truck models can enter full-size budget territory pretty darn quick, but there are some bright sides to that reality. 

“Mini” sized price tags are also a thing of the past, as today’s compact/midsize truck models can enter full-size budget territory pretty darn quick…

The Chevy Colorado is still going strong, and it is larger than ever. In 2019 Ford rereleased the Ranger back onto the market, which is great to see, but it too, is much larger than its last generation that phased out in 2012. Oh, and the Tacoma? It most certainly leads the midsize pickup scene, as it remains one of the most popular on the market. There are other established players in this category that boast devout followings and comparable specs, roomy cabs and available bed lengths that justify their respective MSRP figures, and there are new models trying their best to compete for a place in this very interesting segment. 

So what makes the midsize truck marketplace so exciting, anyway? Well, automakers really are looking to deliver the most bang for your buck in this category. Even though we can all complain that the cost of modern midsize truck are catching up with full-size pickups, these slightly smaller models will come in cheaper than their larger counterparts at the end of the day—there’s no doubt about that. A little sacrifice of space is par for this course with these models, however, these trucks can be jam-packed with features, which make maximizing their function and catering them to meet your exact needs becomes the fun part. 

…automakers really are looking to deliver the most bang for your buck in this category…

Right off the bat, midsize trucks are easier to maneuver than the big ones given their natural nimble size. Just because they’re a tad bit smaller though, don’t move too fast and assume these compact haulers can’t pack a punch to contend with the true heavyweights, because they absolutely do. If you need them to haul stuff around or tow heavy loads, they’ve got you covered. Looking to hit the trails and head off-road? You can do that with these trucks, no question. If you need a commuter vehicle, but want the true utility that only a pickup truck can offer, there are engine configurations with these midsize wonders that are ultra efficient and sip lightly at the pump. There really is a compact truck for every driver out there. 

Since muscle is an obvious concern when truck shopping, let’s take a look at some of the beefier compacts in the field. The Nissan Frontier, which is a familiar face in the compact genre, received a standard option motor upgrade last year, in the form of a healthy 3.8L V6 with a respectable 310HP output along with 281 lb-ft of torque. This engine will most definitely make its presence known while hauling, towing and ripping around off the beaten path. The Ford Ranger also puts up some impressive numbers from its 2.3L turbo 4-banger—270HP and 310 lb-ft of torque. It has proven to also tow and haul great, which is definitely something to consider when comparing to a full-size brute to get the same job done. 

Suspension wise, the Colorado/Canyon with its off-road-ready ZR2 package, is an upgrade that brings the price of admission up a bit, but don’t feel too guilty about over spending on your dirt hobby here, as the the ZR2 equipment also earns rave reviews on paved roads as well. The two-inch suspension lift utilizing quality components and the 3.5-inch wider track is an investment rather than an added expenditure, as the premium suspension package will serve its owner well during work and play. Same goes for the Tacoma with its TRD package, or better yet, its TRD Pro tier option. The latter selection comes correct with an upgraded skidplate under the engine, Fox internal bypass shocks, an electronic locking differential, an inclinometer with pitch and roll displays, 16-inch wheels with beefy A/T tires, improved off-road driving modes—and the list just keeps on going from there. 

While most buyers are interested in midsize trucks that do big truck things, there is another crowd that is interested in overall value and efficiency. These are mostly the folks who don’t intend to work their truck too hard, or play too rough with it either, but still want to have the utility of a truck on hand without it costing too much to operate. For these guys and gals, Ford has released an ultra affordable wildcard onto the market that may get mixed reviews from the truck audience. The Maverick is less expensive than the Ranger right off the lot as MSRP starts under $20K. The standard hybrid powertrain and impressive MPG will only continue to keep more money in wallets. Before this truck is prematurely written off for its lack of power, just know that Ford’s new budget-minded midsize truck is also available with a 2.0 turbo I-4 that boasts 250HP and 277 lb-ft of torque—definitely no slouch.

The variation of standard and optional equipment in the realm of midsize pickups is more than enough to assist in piecing together the right truck at a lower price of a comparably equipped full-size. This is what has made this segment of vehicles such a hot commodity among today’s truck buyers. While there may not be too many outright steals to be had at the dealership, there is plenty of room to better budget your money to get the exact truck that you need/want. Bigger isn’t always better, and the ever-growing fleet of midsize wonders are looking to drive that point home with everything in their power. 

Build an Off–Road Truck With a $10K Budget

Get the Parts You Want and Need

$10,000 is just the right sum of money that can be stretched a very long way when spent correctly. Think about it—if you’re in the market for a new truck, that $10k can quickly evaporate on dealer upgrade packages that aren’t really worth that much money when it comes down to it. It may buy a good amount of factory ‘premium’ add-ons and accessories, but they might not even be the key items you’d need to work towards building the legit off-road truck you want. Instead, you can take that cash and strategically spend it on quality goods from reputable aftermarket manufacturers who specialize in products that you actually want and need. 

Even if you’re looking to outfit an older truck that you may have had around for a while or have finished making payments on, that same $10,000 will come in clutch with turning things around for the better. It’s cheaper than going out and buying another brand new truck, that’s for sure. So why not invest some money into an older pickup and starting having some off-road fun with it? 

…$10k can quickly evaporate on dealer upgrade packages that aren’t really worth that much money when it comes down to it…

Rolling Attire

Tires

There are a few key categories of parts you’re going to have to start shopping around in if you plan to make a go of transforming your truck into an off-road worthy rig. Right out the gate, you’ll want to address your truck’s tire situation. You’ll want to still steer clear of dealer-upgraded rubber here, as whatever tire they’ll try to sell you will still be geared toward on-road above off-road performance every time. Instead, take a look at tires that are designed to take on dirt, mud, sand, and rocks—all the types of terrain that you’ll be looking to combat while out in the great wide open. Specially designed tread patterns and beefier sidewalls will most definitely be your friends here, and will totally be worth the money you’ll invest in them. 

Wheels

While you can put bigger, better tires on just about any wheel, it’s probably wise to spend some money on a set that is designed to better handle off-road situations. Bead lock equipped wheels will prove to be invaluable when you’re out on the trail as they provide clamping power to maintain the tire seal instead of relying on inflation pressure alone to keep them held onto regular wheels. This is quite an advantage since lower tire pressure is often used to improve traction on rough terrain. Plan on spending a few thousand of your budget on new wheels and tires. Of course, you could spend a lot more on them but that’s all based on your own personal preference and taste. 

Ride Height

Suspension

You can get away with spending minimal money on an entry-level leveling kit here and still be able to fit larger wheels and tires all around, and get the look of an off-road truck. While that may make your rig look the part (kind of), you could (and should) go a step further and look into more complete lift kits that will get both ends of the truck up a few inches higher, thus giving your truck the added ground clearance that is imperative in true off-road situations. While you don’t have to get your truck crazy jacked in the sky or anything, even a 4-inch lift will do. 

Shocks

Whichever way you end up lifting your truck, don’t forget to upgrade the factory shocks with a set designed to take on and handle increased dampening abilities. Even if you think you might need remote-reservoir shocks, invest in them. They can take much more abuse, and a lot of them can be manually adjusted to better fit the specifics of your particular truck. Of course, they cost more than simple upgraded OEM replacements, but are well worth the money. 

Underbody/Rocker Protection

With a truck sitting at a higher than stock altitude, its underbelly becomes more susceptible to damage from debris and other obstacles while bombing the trails. To keep vital parts and systems protected from an unforeseen accident, there are plenty of panels and skid plates available that bolt on and offer peace of mind while you’re out having fun. These aren’t a requirement, however, but a strong recommendation when it comes to defending your rig against the elements. 

Accessories Make the Truck

Lighting

Even if you don’t plan on being out in the middle of nowhere past sundown, upgrading your truck’s headlights to brighter HID/LED output wouldn’t be a bad idea. Heck, while you’re at it, it couldn’t hurt to wire up some bright auxiliary lighting sources as well. LED light bars, spotlights, or any other type of bolt-on light housing will end up getting a lot of use even if you don’t intend to use them often. You’d be surprised at just what kind of pitfall you could avoid with sufficient nighttime illumination in pitch-black visibility.  

Winch

You really don’t ever need a winch until you absolutely need one. Whether it’s your truck that gets stuck, or a buddy’s rig that needs to be pulled out of a sticky situation, you’ll be glad to have a dependable get-out-of-jail pass at your disposal.

Brakes

A proper off-road truck definitely deserves an upgrade or two in the braking category. Larger, heavier wheels and tires can rob your truck’s factory braking system of precious stopping power. Aftermarket rotors and calipers are an easy solution, and if your truck is still equipped with rear drum brakes, converting them to discs will dramatically improve braking abilities.

Performance

HP & Torque

There are a lot of combinations to choose from in this department ranging from simple air intake systems, custom exhaust, digital programmers, and a ton of other products designed to make more power. Pricing and level of skill required for at-home installation vary, so choose wisely and know when it’s best to fork over the extra cash for a pro to handle the install. 

Locking/Limited Slip Differential

You may not think this upgrade is necessary until you experience the struggle to make enough traction firsthand. Installing a locking or limited slip diff will allow for your truck to spin both wheels on an axle, which really comes in handy while keeping or regaining precious momentum on tricky types of terrain. The boost in confidence of where your truck can go after installation will astonish you. 

The Great American Pickup Trucks

Examining Chevy C/K & Ford F-Series Platforms

While this is not meant to be yet another Chevy versus Ford truck debate, it is more of an examination of some of the differences, the similarities, and what made both so popular among their individual fan bases. Now, the battle between Bow Tie and Blue Oval groups will never die—surely you’ve experienced some degree of it over the years. When it comes down to the core of the situation, it really is a brand preference thing—Coke VS. Pepsi, Duracell VS. Energizer, Burger King VS. McDonalds, you get the idea. While the decision of what vehicle to purchase far outweighs what to eat or drink for lunch, there is something to be said for the slight modifications between competing brands and what they bring to the table. 

Both C/K and F-Series pickups were the flagship vehicles in the work truck segment for both Chevrolet and Ford respectively. Both brands held the top shares of sales back when C10 and F-100 model trucks were brand new, and they have since laid the foundation for modern Silverado and F-150 models to still rule supreme in today’s marketplace. 

Both C/K and F-Series pickups were the flagship vehicles in the work truck segment for both Chevrolet and Ford respectively…

Ford’s first generation F-series pickup went by the F-1 name, which was introduced in 1948 and lasted until ‘52, when the F-100 title was put into place just one year later. For 31 years, Ford’s F-100 pickup helped hard working Americans earn their livings behind the wheel of a truck that was one of the top selling models in the country. For diehard Ford enthusiasts, the F-100 was the only game in town when the time came for purchasing a pickup, while neutral consumers who bought one did so based on its own merit. While the F-100 had a pretty good run for itself, it did help pave the way for Ford’s F-150, which hit the streets in ’75. In its first 9 years (while the F-100 was also still for sale on the market) the F-150 quickly rose to even higher popularity, which led to the F100’s graceful exit in ’84. 

While Ford did have a jump on the pickup market in the early 50’s with their updated F-Series truck, it wasn’t until 1960 when General Motors rolled out what was arguably the most popular American pickup during its run. When the C/K platform began rolling out at dealerships throughout the country, the buzz behind GM’s sleeker looking, smoother riding pickup truck was growing at an impressive rate. The C-10 era C/K rode out 27 years, and finally gave way to a new generation, the OBS (old body style or original body style), which ran a 10-year span until the Silverado was released in ’99, and we all know how well that changeup went over. 

While there were other pickup trucks available to consumers during the CK/F-Series heyday (we see you Dodge fans), it was these two that sat alone with a commanding market share. At first glance though, both the Chevy and Ford trucks in the 60’s and into the 70’s didn’t really stand out that much from each other. Sure, you could easily tell one apart from the other, but there were no glaring differences like what a Jeep Gladiator would look like in direct comparison. Both Chevy and Ford models offered two similar bed styles, the Fleetside and Stepside (or Styleside and Flareside as Ford dubbed their versions) but those didn’t really make much of a difference from one make to the other. Small exterior changes like headlight shapes and grille styling (and constant restyling) help greatly in determining one year from another. It’s really all on how you look at these two trucks during these times and which particular style speaks to you more. Either way, they were both uniquely qualified to share the spotlight as America’s best looking working class sweethearts. 

C/K and F-Series pickups were looked at as being very modernized, forward-designed versions of what many thought of trucks at that point, which was simply clunky and overly utilitarian. To help change this rationale, both Ford and Chevy designed their chassis to improve overall ride quality with and without full payloads. The F-100’s 2WD model was given a twin I-beam front suspension with coil springs while the C10 featured an independent front suspension while utilizing torsion bars, which were soon ditched for coils as well. Chevy soon added independent coil trailing arms to their C-10 platform, giving it improved feel, especially while carrying a full load. Both companies were always looking for new ways to give their fans new solutions when development permitted. It was these early upgrades that eventually led to the technological wonders we have in place today in the form of highly evolved suspension systems in pickup trucks. 

In the age of restoration and customization, the C10 and F-100 platforms are nearly sitting on even ground, although the slight advantage might lean a bit in Chevy’s favor. The aftermarket support for both trucks is huge, making it easy and less stressful to order the parts needed for a full suspension rebuild, body and interior renovation, as well as rebuilding or replacing the factory engine. The simple fact is that classic Chevy and Ford trucks are still as popular now as they were back when they were new. Newly developed products have allowed builders to not only build them to ride and handle better than ever, but they can now be so finely tuned to meet individual needs down to the smallest of details.

The simple fact is that classic Chevy and Ford trucks are still as popular now as they were back when they were new…

There is no runaway winner of the timeless debate between Chevy and Ford trucks, and there really doesn’t have to be. Devout fans and customizers, no matter which brand truck they choose to build, are the true champions because of their unwavering dedication to preserving the machine of their preference. Whatever the make, model or year of the truck, there are parts to make it not only whole again, but better than any member of the Ford and GM engineering teams could’ve ever dreamed possible for these old, yet highly desirable work horses. 

Getting Ratio’ed

The Importance of Power to Weight

How do bees get airborne? How do hummingbirds gracefully hover? How do helicopters chase you out of your favorite spot at 2:30 on a Sunday morning with that stupidly-bright spotlight? Lots of power moving as little weight as possible. 

Horsepower to the tires has big implications for automotive performance, but like everything else about going fast, it’s not about one number. What’s more important is how many pounds each horsepower has to move around, and the overall power-to-weight ratio is the real determiner of more than just how quickly a car accelerates. Today, we’re going to talk about some things you might not have considered before when thinking about how much power you need to achieve your performance goals, or on the flip side, how light your car has to be with the horsepower you currently have.

What’s more important is how many pounds each horsepower has to move around…

Defining Terms

Power to weight ratio is just what it sounds like – how much power is available, compared to the mass of the vehicle. You can express it in any unit of measure you prefer; our European friends will like kilowatts and kilograms, but US readers will probably find it easier to relate to how many pounds each pony has to carry around, so that’s what we will stick to here. To give you some perspective, here are a few examples of production car power to weight ratios, based on factory figures:

• Toyota Prius (2022): 121 HP (net power), 3,010 pounds curb weight = 24.9 pounds per HP
• Honda CRX Si (1987) 91 HP, 1,953 pound curb weight = 21.5 pounds per HP
• Mazda Miata (1997): 129 HP, 2,180 pound curb weight = 16.9 pounds per HP
• Dodge Challenger SXT V6 (2021): 303 HP, 3,858 pound curb weight = 12.7 pounds per HP
• Honda S2000 Club Racer (2008): 237 HP, 2,765 pounds curb weight = 11.7 pounds per HP
• Acura NSX Type R (1992): 270 HP, 2,712 pound curb weight = 10.0 pounds per HP
• Chevrolet Corvette 1LT Z51 (2021): 495 HP, 3,366 pound curb weight = 6.8 pounds per HP
• Dodge Challenger SRT Super Stock (2021): 808 HP, 4,429 pound curb weight = 5.5 pounds per HP

Just for fun, let’s throw in a couple of fairly tame sportbikes:

• Kawasaki Ninja 400 (2022): 45 HP, 541 pounds curb weight (includes 175 lb rider) = 12.0 pounds per HP
• Kawasaki Ninja 650 (2022): 67 HP, 598 pounds curb weight (includes 175 lb rider) = 8.9 pounds per HP

We can draw some initial observations from these examples right away. First of all, the two motorcycles shown are generally considered pretty weak sauce by two-wheel standards, but they are still in a totally different realm than most cars. Second, there are some cars we’d all consider “fun to drive” that don’t have very good power to weight ratios – more on that in a minute. Finally, the top of our list has a Challenger model that is an absolute whale, but thanks to an equally gargantuan engine, is in a class of its own in terms of power to weight.

The point to be made here is that cars (and motorcycles) that are lighter in absolute terms tend to be more enjoyable for enthusiasts even if they are only middle-of-the-pack in horsepower. That’s because weight, or more correctly mass, affects more than just straight-line acceleration. 

Massive Implications

Because inertia applies in all directions, not just to acceleration, with all other factors being equal a car that weighs less overall will need less tire, less suspension, and less brakes to achieve the same results as a heavier but more powerful one with the same power to weight ratio. Conversely, better tires, suspension, and brakes will be more advantageous on the lighter car as well. 

As time has passed, increased safety requirements for side impact air bags, crush zones, and a hundred other advances, combined with customer demand for things like heated power-adjustable seats and Bluetooth-connected in-car entertainment systems have inexorably pushed curb weight up, even for cars built to be lightweight. The 2014 5th Gen Camaro Z/28 is a good example, being available without air conditioning or a stereo, but the need to incorporate government-mandated audio feedback for turn signals, seat belt warnings, and whatnot meant that it still had to have at least one speaker.

So far, though, the increase in curb weight of the average car has been more than offset by the increase in average horsepower. But it also means more capable (and more expensive) suspension, tires, and brakes are required. It’s also often said that “light costs money” and that’s very true when you are trying to achieve the same results with less weight, like substituting an aluminum block of comparable strength for a cast iron block in the same engine design. On the extreme end, carbon fiber body panels, aluminum frames, and other semi-exotic materials and manufacturing methods can be employed by the factory.

Simplicate and Add Lightness

Fortunately, even if you’re on an instant ramen budget and spending a ton of money on featherweight aftermarket parts isn’t in the cards, all is not lost. Manual cloth seats from a base model car can replace the seven-way heated leather ones you have, for example, and you may even end up money ahead by selling them to some would-be baller looking to upgrade. AC deletes, while trending toward the hardcore end of the spectrum, are typically good for some significant weight savings, and if you still want to keep cool and not make your own gravy while sweating out the summer, we bet that without even trying too hard the typical enthusiast could find at least 20 pounds of loose junk in the car that you have been Ubering around for free. Those passenger seats sitting in the pits at the local autocross or dragstrip grudge night take zero dollars to do, and they give you a place to sit and hang out with your friends in comfort while you wait for your run group.

Fortunately, even if you’re on an instant ramen budget and spending a ton of money on featherweight aftermarket parts isn’t in the cards, all is not lost…

There’s something really satisfying about making your car faster without adding a single pony under the hood, and all it takes is a little bit of imagination and some elbow grease. As a bonus, you’ll be able to corner harder and brake later – sure, it’s not as sexy as putting on a turbo or jetting up the nitrous, but it’s a tried and true speed not-so-secret. 

Mid Travel vs. Long Travel Off-Road Suspension

Which Is Right For You?

Every truck and its owner are different. While that may sound like stating the obvious, it is very much true, and determines the relationship of how someone drives their pickup. Most folks are more than fine with leaving their truck bone stock, and hardly ever venture far from paved roads. Modern trucks are easy to drive, and are often treated as a regular car—with a handy bed that comes in clutch during those sporadic trips to Home Depot. While this picture comes off as being dramatically domesticated, it’s really not that far off from how it really is, except for the truck owners that have a sharp taste for far more action and adventure. 

Now, the type of action we have in mind here is off-road adventure, and what exactly that means to each individual truck owner. While a good percentage of them tend to lean toward the mild side of things (which isn’t a bad thing at all) there are a slimmer number of truck fiends that crave the most capable, unstoppable setup imaginable. Of course, we’re talking about the timeless debate between mid- and long travel truck suspension systems, and what it really means to build and drive them. 

The Deciding Factor(s)

Which is the right one for you? Well, only you can really answer that question. There’s a lot to take into consideration—some are the obvious cost and labor issues, and others may be less glaring and require careful attention. You’ll have to seriously address the pros and cons of how mid- and long travel suspension systems stand to benefit your particular situation and how they could possibly negatively affect you world as well. 

Materials

While there is no real “negative” surrounding either of these suspension upgrades as they are both far superior than factory specs if you plan on doing any type of off-roading—even in the slightest. Mid-travel setups are far more accessible than their long-travel counterparts, as most basic front kits consist of at least an aftermarket uni-ball upper control arm, a quality coilover with reservoir, an upgraded leaf spring pack, axle flip kit, and a reservoir-equipped shock. All are fairly straightforward to install, and all of these components bolt right into place. 

Mid-travel setups are far more accessible than their long-travel counterparts…

On the other end, long travel setups are far more involved as you’re looking at aftermarket upper AND lower uni-ball control arms, an extended axle shaft, tie rod extension, coilovers with reservoir, and strategic weld-in reinforcements in the way of braces/gussets for optimum strength. You’ll see a beefier leaf spring pack here at the rear, which will be placed underneath the axle. This means that bolting on shocks in their factory mounting points will not be possible. You’ll have to get creative here to make it work, whether that means relocating the mounts somewhere else of going right through the bed utilizing a bed cage. Don’t expect things to be as easy as with mid travel setups here, it’s far more work, but there is a larger payout here once the dust settles. 

Cost

Long travel suspensions cost much more to build, obviously, but in more ways than you might think. Aside from the suspension components themselves, you’ll also have to take factory fender panels out of the equation, and think about wider, fiberglass options instead since the width of the front suspension is extended and the rear travel is extended so much over stock. On the bright side, you’ll be able to run comfortably with 35” tires without having to endlessly cut and trim until there’s nothing left of those original fenders anyway. 

Type of Driving

Think of mid travel suspension good for casual trail cruising, some moderate rock climbing, and increased general access to rougher conditions that wouldn’t otherwise be comfortable in a stock truck. You’ll have a lot more options open to you as far as terrain you’ll be able to take on, but take those options and multiply them—that is the true capability of long travel. But is long travel feasible for daily driving duties? Sure, why not? It’s really a personal preference with the additional width up front and all, but it’s just like anything else, you’ll adapt. 

Bottom Line Pros and Cons

Let’s start with mid travel first. You’ll be able to install the suspension components comfortably at home without any specialty skills or tools. The parts involved are fewer and relatively inexpensive, and you’ll still be able to upgrade tire size—think 33s without having to cut/trim fender wells too extensively. While you’ll be able to comfortable drive your truck daily and still have more confidence off-road, you will still be limited to more extreme conditions that only a long travel will be able to handle.

Long travel suspension parts do add up fast and installation isn’t always for the everyday DIY builder at times. You’ll most likely have to do some welding, so if you don’t have this skillset under your belt, you may have to outsource or wrangle a buddy who can help out. Save part of your budget for replacement fender panels, and prepare to lose valuable bed space for that bed cage and probably a spot to throw your spare. Don’t let all those factors stop you from seeing the job through—once everything is done, the off-road landscape will be your oyster. 

…once everything is done, the off-road landscape will be your oyster…

In the end, you’ll have to make the decision of just which scenario is right for you. Are you down for the higher cost and more in-depth installation of the long travel? Is it really worth the extra money and extra headaches? Are you fine with still being able to having more paths opened to you while still being limited to only where long travel-equipped trucks can travel? Weight it all out, sleep on it, talk it over with your better half, and then start building the truck that is right for your own personal situation. 

Ten Euro Standouts

The Most Influential US Imports from the Old World

After the end of the Second World War, America emerged unchallenged in terms of manufacturing and industry. All the domestic car companies who had turned their might to supply the “Arsenal of Democracy” were quickly pivoting back to products designed to fill pent-up civilian demand. And yet, in Europe just as in Asia, war-ravaged economies saw the US domestic market as a way to jump-start their own reconstruction, despite formidable barriers. 

…war-ravaged economies saw the US domestic market as a way to jump-start their own reconstruction, despite formidable barriers…

For the next five decades, German, Italian, English, and French manufacturers worked to solve the puzzle of selling stateside. While there were many misfires and failed attempts along the way, we also received a lot of cars that stood out for their innovation, performance, or just plain lovable weirdness. These weren’t the Porsche and Ferrari sports cars, but often very ordinary designs that rose to greatness. Here’s ten Euro cars that all made their mark on the United States, for a lot of very different reasons. 

1949 – Volkswagen Beetle

A literal “people’s car” designed for a dystopia that thankfully never fully came to be, the Volkswagen Type 1 finaly reached mass production just in time to help a shattered Germany get back on its feet. It went on to see more than 21 million cars sold worldwide over its very long production run, and although it started out as underpowered and unsophisticated even by 1930s standards, the Bug went places nobody could have imagined. In every form of motorsports from road courses to drag strips to Baja, the VW was embraced and found success. In the driveway, it taught Boomers to wrench without fear (and how to drive stick – once you master a VW transmission, everything else is cake), and it’s pretty safe to say that as long as there is gas to burn, somebody will be turning out new air-cooled flat-fours for them.

1960 – Austin Mini

Not everyone knows that the UK spent almost ten years after WWII with rationing of certain items still in effect – the war had taken a high toll in manufacturing infrastructure and massively disrupted public transportation. Against that backdrop, the Austin Mini debuted in 1959 and a year later, left-hand-drive versions began export to the US. While the total numbers that made it to our shores weren’t spectacular (approximately 10,000 over seven years), the impact they had is hard to understate. Here was the first widely-available transverse engine front wheel drive economy car most people ever experienced, and its space-efficient two-box profile and drivetrain layout set the standard for tens of millions of cars from dozens of makers in the subsequent years. 

1968 – Fiat 124 Spider

Designed by Pininfarina, the little convertible Fiat somehow managed to be an Italian sports car in the same mold as England’s classic roadsters, but with ever-so-slightly better reliability. First appearing in the US in 1968, the model managed to soldier on all the way into the early 1980s, with upgrades in engine displacement along the way. Many say that the Mazda Miata was an homage to those English roadsters, but the commercial success of the Fiat Spider made it a more direct ancestor (even if it wasn’t good enough to keep the company in the US market.)

1974 – Fiat X1/9

This toon town caricature of Italy’s vaunted mid-rear-engine exotics never made more than 75 horsepower from the factory, was undrivable by anyone taller than six feet, and was abandoned by its parent company in 1982 to be picked up by Bertone and limp on in the US (the car’s largest market by far) through 1987. It was also a riot to drive, and foreshadowed the MR2 and even the Fiero as an affordable mid-rear two-seater.

1982 – BMW E30

It’s not throwing shade on BMW to call the E30 3-series their version of the Civic. It revived the market formerly served by the classic 2002 for enthusiasts who wanted a compact car that was fun to drive and affordable. In the secondary market, it became a tuner superstar thanks to its easy availability and the fact that all the fundamentals were done right. 

1983 – Audi Quattro

If you like the GT-R, EVO, and WRX STi, you can thank (at least in part) Audi for blazing the trail. The original Quattro hit the US market at a time when the only other car with full-time AWD was the AMC Eagle. While the Eagle was special in its own way, it was no performance car, and the Audi’s turbocharged inline 5-cylinder and rally pedigree were something totally new in America. Though the first Quattro sold in miniscule numbers in the USDM, it was the vanguard of things to come worldwide.

1983 – Mercedes W201

Not to be outdone by their rivals at BMW, Mercedes jumped right into the compact market with the 190-series “baby Benz,” gifting the W201 chassis with a sophisticated suspension and a rev-happy inline four cylinder engine in various displacements. While it didn’t gain the same traction with street tuners in the US that the E30 did, it found great success in road racing worldwide and changed Americans’ conception of Mercedes as either Gullwings or diesel-powered living room couches to a viable performance brand.

1983 – Volkswagen Golf/Rabbit GTI

Though the VW Golf Mk1 arrived in the US in 1975 (and was called the Rabbit, for reasons which are not entirely clear) and overseas markets got the hot rod GTI version a year later, Americans would have to wait until 1983 to get a Rabbit GTI. While the 90 horsepower 1.8 liter engine (uprated to an even 100 for 1984) is nothing special by today’s standards, in the light and well-engineered Mk1 chassis it was a paradigm shift in economy car high performance. Looking back, the “hot hatch” category was inevitable, but Volkswagen got it right first, and created a legend that continues to this day.

1984 – Volvo 760T

Sure, the Volvo 122S/Amazon had European rally cred in the 60’s, and the P1800 looked exotic and cool to American eyes (and even had a star turn as Roger Moore’s ‘hero car’ in The Saint TV series), but by the mid-Eighties, the Swedish car-maker was known for safety and cars that could be accurately modeled with LEGO blocks. Then, in 1984 US buyers were offered the turbocharged 760T, which not only led to the widespread misuse of the word “intercooler” but more importantly gave us a quick, practical, and safe car with a bulletproof boosted RWD drivetrain. To this day, “turbo bricks” still have a small but very enthusiastic owner base in America.

1985 – Merkur XR4Ti

You knew you weren’t getting out of this without us throwing in at least one really weird one, and the Sierra XR4i from Ford’s European branch certainly checks that box. Rebadged and rebranded as the Merkur XR4Ti in America and sold through 800 or so Lincoln/Mercury dealers, you wouldn’t mistake one for anything else thanks to the ‘aero’ nose, biplane spoiler, and notch-profile 3-door hatchback body. The FR drivetrain layout was motivated by a 2.3l iron-block inline four topped by a turbo pushing 14 PSI – the same engine in the SVO Mustang and Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, minus the charge cooler, with 175 horsepower on tap in manual transmission cars. Ultimately, sales didn’t justify updating the model to meet increasingly tight safety regulations, and the strong Deutschmark didn’t help. The short-lived experiment left a bad taste with Ford US, and we wouldn’t see another Euro-manufactured model from the Blue Oval again until the Ford Focus RS arrived in 2016.

So there’s our list – we’ll admit that it’s subjective, and reasonable people can disagree over things like this. What USDM cars imported from Europe would you put on your own list of most influential models? 

What is VTEC?

How Honda Created a Legend With a 10mm Pin

What does it take for one specific bit of simple, yet brilliant technology to achieve meme status? In the case of Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (better known as VTEC), it started out as a way for Honda to offer better performance while still meeting emissions standards and displacement limits at the start of the 90s and arguably gave the company’s automotive division the same kind of high tech street cred their motorcycles already enjoyed. 

The original VTEC led the way for a whole new slate of variable valve actuation systems from practically every major manufacturer, with a wide range of complexity and effectiveness seen today. Back in the day, it would be hard for anyone to imagine that a simple pin moved by a hydraulic actuator could become such a legend, but in retrospect it seems like one of those “why didn’t I think of that?” inventions.

Best of Both Worlds

To understand the impact of VTEC on the automotive world, it’s worthwhile knowing exactly what it is and what it isn’t. Conventional piston engines rely on one or more camshafts, turning at one-half engine speed, to control the motion of the intake and exhaust valves. No other single aspect of engine design has a bigger effect on performance, economy, or emissions than the timing and intensity (for lack of a better word) of valve events, and for engines without some sort of variable valve control, every compromise gets carved in steel at the factory and can’t be changed without getting into the ‘wet’ part of the engine. 

This is important because the physics involved in getting air and fuel into the cylinder and exhaust out mean that a cam lobe design optimized for low-end grunt is going to be unhappy at high RPM and vice versa. At lower speeds, cylinder-filling is improved by having relatively small valves with low lift, trading away some pumping losses in exchange for keeping velocity up in the intake tract, but towards the upper end of the RPM scale, bigger is better and low lift will kill airflow. Similar tradeoffs for valve duration (the part of the 720 degree four-stroke cycle when the valve is open to a meaningful extent) and valve overlap (degrees of crank rotation during which the exhaust valve is still closing while the intake valve starts to open at the end of one cycle and the beginning of the next) also have a big effect on how the engine delivers power. 

With a traditional camshaft, it’s one and done since whatever specifications were ground into the lobes at the factory are all you have to work with short of a swap. Hot rodders came up with some work-arounds, of course – part of the skill set of the traditional pushrod V8 racer was ‘degreeing the cam’ which involves using an adjustable timing gear set to move the cam’s timing earlier or later in the cycle, and dual overhead cam engines can use the same strategy plus change the intake and exhaust timing relative to one another to get some adjustability for overlap, but this was strictly something done in the shop rather than on the fly while the engine was running. More crucially, it didn’t change the cam lobes’ profile or lift.  

A Stroke of Genius

The solution seems obvious now, but at the time it required asking what sounds like a dumb question – “If the engine runs best with one cam design at low speed, and another at high speed, why not give it two cams?” At its core, that is all VTEC is – a way to put two completely different camshaft grinds into the same engine, and switch between them on demand. That’s much easier said than done, though, especially when whatever you come up with has to be simple enough to produce economically, durable enough to last for a hundred thousand miles or more, and designed to fail ‘gracefully’ and not leave you stranded if something goes wrong. 

… that is all VTEC is – a way to put two completely different camshaft grinds into the same engine, and switch between them on demand…

In 1984, Honda launched the New Concept Engine program with goals that included increasing torque and horsepower for their car engines across the RPM range, with an eventual benchmark of achieving 100 horsepower per liter of engine displacement for production engines. Initially, the NCE initiative led to powerplants like the DOHC ZC (forerunner of the D-series engine) as early as 1985, but the real breakthrough came when previous research begun in 1983 into a system intended to improve fuel economy was rolled into the new project. 

One of the main players in the NCE project was Ikuo Kajitani from Honda’s First Design Department in their Tochigi R&D Center. “Characteristically,” Kajitani said, “four-valve engines are known as high-revving, high-output machines. And for that reason we knew it would be quite difficult to achieve low-end performance if the engine’s displacement were too small.” He was certain that a solution to the problem could be found in the work done on the fuel economy project in the form of an engine that could change valve timing and lift dynamically during operation.

This capability took shape as a very simple but elegant system that uses only a few additional parts compared to a conventional valvetrain. At the beginning, the team had considered around thirty different methods of achieving this goal, but to narrow down the field, priority was given to systems that relied on proven technology rather than novel approaches that might have unforeseen show-stopping flaws. With a mixture of caution and optimism, ideas that seemed promising but had a high risk of being developmental dead-ends were set aside. One of the most important goals was to have a mechanism that could handle 400,000 cycles without failing. In the end, the team settled on the system we now know as the original VTEC.

For each cylinder, instead of a single cam lobe to control valve events, there would be three: Two low-speed lobes with a single high-speed lobe between them. With the system deactivated, each valve would be controlled by its own low-speed lobe, while a third cam follower with no direct connection to the valves followed the profile of the single high-speed lobe. On computer command, a hydraulic valve would send oil pressure to move a pin into place to connect the outer followers to the inner one and lock the whole assembly together, causing the valves to follow the more aggressive center cam lobe profile. 

No Magic Involved

Though the concept was simple, there were still significant technological hurdles to overcome. One major example of this was the fact that they needed to squeeze three lobes into the space originally occupied by one, and those lobes would also be operating the valvetrain under higher loads and engine speeds than they’d previously been engineered for. Solving this issue required improvements in both metallurgy and design, but the team achieved their goal (and then some) in time to confidently introduce the new technology for the 1989 model year. 

While VTEC in its original incarnation does allow an engine to operate in ways that a fixed valvetrain simply can’t, there’s a widely-held misconception that it’s some kind of super-science that works like hitting the switch on a nitrous system. In reality, what it did was allow Honda to build engines with the ability to change between a cam designed for efficient, clean, and fuel-sipping performance to one with the grind the engineers wanted to use in the first place. As a matter of fact, it’s not uncommon in race applications to use a single-grind camshaft that actually defeats VTEC in order to increase tolerance for abuse and reduce complexity and weight. When street driving isn’t high on your priority list, the flexibility and broad powerband that VTEC allows isn’t as important, but it makes a huge difference in your daily driver.

…it’s not uncommon in race applications to use a single-grind camshaft that actually defeats VTEC in order to increase tolerance for abuse and reduce complexity and weight…

The Bigger Picture

For all the popularity of “VTEC just kicked in” memes, the system actually does what it was intended to do – Allow small-displacement engines capable of high fuel economy and low emissions during test cycles and normal driving to also provide exceptional horsepower when run hard. In the process, Honda managed to turn cars like the Civic from quirky but reliable transportation devices into ones that were actually fun to drive fast. Whether it was their intention or not, you can argue that the evergreen popularity of all the generations of Civic that followed were a direct result of the NCE project and the development of VTEC. 

Today, every manufacturer has implemented some sort of variable valve timing setup, even for old-school pushrod V8 engine designs. There’s a veritable alphabet soup of acronyms used to describe all the different proprietary ways manufacturers have come up with to adjust valve timing, intake versus exhaust cam phasing, and so on, and Honda has gone on to improve their own engines with VTEC-E, 3-Stage VTEC, i-VTEC, and i-VTEC with Variable Cylinder Management. But the real special sauce – changing to a completely different cam profile on demand – remains at the core of VTEC technology. Until we reach a point where camless valve actuation via pneumatic or electronic direct control finally makes its way from the cost-is-no-concern pressure cooker of Formula One racing to the street, Honda’s approach will likely remain as the best way to change lift and duration on the fly. 

You Bought A New Track Car – Now What?

Essentials for Hot Laps on a 5k Budget

So you’ve taken the plunge and bought yourself a dedicated track car. You did your research, found what you were looking for in sound mechanical condition and not already so far from stock that you’d have to rip everything out before doing it the way it should have been done in the first place, and you’re eager to get it prepped and put some laps on it. But you’re not made of money, and your meme stocks only got you into low earth orbit instead of to the moon, so you have a $5,000 budget for everything you’re going to need. 

Some hard choices will have to be made, because every dollar spent in one area means a dollar less to spend somewhere else. Here’s how we would allocate those 50 Benjamins most effectively – while your priorities are going to vary from ours, having a plan is the difference between a car on the track and yard art on jackstands for another year because you ran out of money and motivation.

Helmet – $350 ($4,650 Remaining)

Yes, we know you already have a helmet you bought off Craigslist. Yes, we know you are the one driver who will never, ever crash. This is still non-negotiable. Every reputable track day event organizer will insist on an ‘in-date’ skid lid that meets an accepted testing standard. Most often this is Snell SA or its equivalent – some sanctions will accept a Snell M-rated helmet, but the DOT-only models are almost always not considered good enough, for a reason.

Helmets designed to meet the SA and similar ratings have features that make them better suited for automotive use, where sharp impacts with objects that can penetrate the shell are more likely than the types of forces involved in motorcycle crashes, and they’ll have a fire-resistant liner. The “in-date” part is important too; the impact-absorbing liner has a finite lifespan, which gets shorter the more it is exposed to temperature extremes or solvent and gasoline fumes. 

While it’s possible to get an open-face helmet that carries a SA2020 tag for as little as $160, we recommend a full-face model, and as the list price goes up you’ll also get better fit and finish and improved comfort, which is important when you’re trying to concentrate on-track. Throw in another $40 or so for a fire resistant head sock (also good for comfort, as well as keeping the liner of the helmet cleaner) and $350 is a reasonable starting point for this critically important item.

Tires/Wheels – $2000 ($2650 Remaining)

We’re assuming that if you’re limited to a $5k overall budget for track car upgrades, you’re probably not going to trailer to and from events. We’re also going to assume that you will want a separate set of wheels and tires so that you’re not burning through expensive high-performance tires daily driving on them (though mad props to you if you are hardcore like that – we’ve been there ourselves). Like everything else on this list, wheels aren’t an area where you want to cut corners, but it’s entirely possible to get into a set of four new, quality wheels from a reputable manufacturer for around a grand. For that price, you are looking at cast rather than forged wheels, so the tradeoff is slightly higher weight for a lower price, as well as not being as forgiving or repairable when tweaked during inevitable encounters with debris or curbs.

Like everything else on this list, wheels aren’t an area where you want to cut corners, but it’s entirely possible to get into a set of four new, quality wheels from a reputable manufacturer for around a grand…

Tires are consumables, and depending on how hard you run them and what your level of compromise is between grip and longevity, these may have to be replaced several times a season. Fortunately, it’s often possible to find a well-heeled fellow enthusiast who always has used tires that have ‘gone off’ for full-boogie competition purposes but still have plenty of laps left in them for less serious use, so we’re compromising and putting a cost of $250 a corner out there to give some wiggle room for that initial set. Like always, your experience may vary, and cars with uncommon fitments or really big meat will tend toward the more pricey end of the spectrum. 

Brake Upgrades – $1250 ($1400)

Here’s another area where there is a wide range of possibilities – if your track car has decent stock brakes, all that may be necessary for anything less than full competition use might be a change to a different brake compound, braided stainless flex lines, new rotors, and a fluid flush and bleed. On the other hand, most cars of interest to the track day crowd have a lot of bolt-on options at surprisingly reasonable prices. If you don’t go totally nuts, our budget should at least cover a front caliper upgrade in addition to the other things mentioned above, plus a spare set of pads to be bedded in and brought with you if you’ve chosen a soft-but-grippy compound and a tight course to run on for a mid-day swap.

if your track car has decent stock brakes, all that may be necessary for anything less than full competition use might be a change to a different brake compound, braided stainless flex lines, new rotors, and a fluid flush and bleed…

Suspension upgrades – $1400

We’re going to take the last of our remaining budget and allocate it toward suspension. On the less expensive end of the scale, a complete, properly engineered and matched set of quality replacement springs, dampers, anti-roll bars, and polyurethane bushings can set you back as little as $750, while the sky is the limit for a complete competition-spec coilover conversion with multi-way adjustable dampers. We’re splitting the difference here, but odds are you will come in either substantially above or below our average estimated price. Depending on what kind of tracks you prefer, you may prioritize suspension above brakes, or the other way around, and adjust your spending on these last two categories accordingly.

One thing you absolutely do not want to do under any circumstances is to cheap out here; there are a lot of janky ‘lowering kits’ and coilover conversion setups with suspiciously low price tags and brand names you have never heard of, but spending any money on components of dubious quality and unclear origin can only lead to disaster. 

That Money Went Fast…

As you can see, it doesn’t take a whole lot to blow through $5k getting your new toy set up properly, but going into it with clear expectations for the cost and effort involved can keep your dreams from dying before you ever get to the track. Keep in mind that this is just a start, and in order to keep your racing fun sustainable, it’s a good idea to set aside money for every event you attend in some place where you won’t spend it, to be used for future consumables like tires, brakes, and maintenance items. Budgeting is never fun, but it makes the fun stuff possible, and helps you to drive more and dream less. 

Hot Swaps

Engine And Chassis Combos Limited Only By Imagination

Engine swaps might seem like a recent thing, but OG hot rodders did it back in the 1950s, putting the then-new small block Chevy V8 into Ford Model T chassis, and when Cadillac created a long-stroke 500ci version of their corporate big block in 1970, wrecked Eldorados became a prime target for drag racers looking for as many cubes as they could get. Today, despite tightening regulations that threaten to make any kind of automotive modification illegal, let alone a complete motor swap, mixing and matching cars and drivetrains has never been more popular. Let’s look at some of the most common types of hybrid chassis and engine combinations (and we mean that in the cool way, not the electric motor ‘hybrid’ sense) and the reasons behind them.

All In The Family

In terms of sheer numbers of completed swaps, updating (or backdating, in some cases) a particular car with an engine from the same manufacturer takes the top position. In the import and sport compact world, the most common swaps involve upgrading Hondas with more powerful engines – the trend began with taking lightweight Civic or CRX shells originally equipped with fuel-sipping but low-output D-series four cylinder engines and replacing them with more powerful B-series engines from models higher up on the price and performance ladder. With the introduction of the even more powerful and versatile K-series, those became the donor engines of choice, despite being somewhat more complicated to swap due to the necessity of changing transmissions as well. The extra effort is worth it, though; 200 horsepower or more from a completely stock engine in a late-90’s Civic that tips the scales at under 2,400 pounds makes for very entertaining performance at an affordable price.

In terms of sheer numbers of completed swaps, updating (or backdating, in some cases) a particular car with an engine from the same manufacturer takes the top position…

Honda engine swaps have become so popular that you can find ready-made components like engine and transmission mounts, headers, and ECU adapters for pretty much any reasonable (and more than a few unreasonable) combination of engine and chassis. With the trailblazing handled, potential compatibility issues have all been sorted out by somebody somewhere. It just takes a bit of research to come up with a proven recipe to follow, and entire books have been written on the subject covering every last detail.

Another common form of swap involves putting an engine not available in the US market into a chassis that was sold here, with the first example that comes to mind being the Nissan 240SX. Known in Japan as the 180SX and Silvia, when the company brought this fun little RWD coupe to America, they decided to replace the JDM CA and SR series turbocharged engines with KA series naturally aspirated ones. This decision was likely based on the fact that the KA engines were already “federalized” for US emissions regulations and would be less expensive than bringing in a new powerplant without an existing approval. Though well-suited for mainstream buyers, since these engines had previously been used in Nissan’s Hardbody line, they were derided by some as ‘truck engines’ unworthy of the car’s sporty image.

Of course, enthusiasts care not for things such as EPA regulations, and many CA and SR engines got strapped to pallets in Japanese wrecking yards and shipped to the west coast to be reunited with S13 and S14 240SX models here. Some particularly ambitious souls went as far as to cram RB26DETT twin turbo inline sixes from the JDM Skyline GT-R (among other applications) into that chassis as well.

Speaking of legendary Japanese turbo sixes, let’s not forget the Toyota 2JZ-GTE. This engine powered a whole generation of the company’s flagship performance models, but only came to US showrooms in the Mark IV Supra Turbo. This engine has found its way into a number of different swaps, including both Lexus IS300/GS300/SC300 models as a replacement for its naturally-aspirated sibling, the 2JZ-GE, as well as other non-Toyotas with engine bays long enough to accommodate the sizeable inline six. 

Could Have Had a V8

Don’t think this is just limited to import brands, either. When Ford ended production of their classic pushrod 5.0 liter V8 engine in the mid-90s and replaced it with the high-tech overhead cam Modular family, it was only a matter of time before those engines started to find their way into Fox-body Mustangs and even classics. One of the disadvantages of overhead cam cylinder heads in a V-configuration engine layout is that compared to pushrod designs of similar displacement, they inevitably end up larger in width and height. Adding cams and timing gear to the top of the cylinders makes them inherently taller than engines that simply have to accommodate rocker arms beneath the valve covers. In a bit of irony, older muscle cars with their large engine bays have more room to accept Modular V8 swaps, making them somewhat easier to work on than modern factory Fords with cramped under-hood layouts. 

While Ford was breaking ties with their previous engine architecture, GM took a less radical path, introducing the first LS-series engines. These successors to the original small-block Chevy V8 and its follow-on “Gen II” LT replacements are in many ways a “what might have been” look at the direction Ford could have taken with their own small-block pushrod architecture. Though the Gen II engines had a lot of problems including a notoriously unreliable optical ignition pickup and were widely panned by gearheads, the Gen III/IV LS family turned out to be a huge success.

Lightweight, powerful, durable, plentiful, and cheap, they quickly replaced the venerable SBC as the engine of choice for GM swaps. Like the aforementioned Honda engines, a huge aftermarket has developed to make putting an LS into an older car easy, right down to complete kits that handle ignition and carburetion should you choose to go old-school and ‘downgrade’ from EFI. Another factor that led to their popularity was that they were manufactured in both iron and aluminum block form, so that those in search of an inexpensive and bomb-proof bottom end could simply grab a low-compression iron block truck motor from the local pick-a-part and feed it a decent amount of boost or nitrous without a lot of drama.

Cross Breeding

While mixing and matching engines and chassis from the same manufacturer often makes things somewhat easier because of shared mechanical and electronic components, taking an engine from one maker and stuffing it into another company’s car has been popular forever as well. As we mentioned before, early hot rodders who started out by putting Ford Flathead V8 engines into Model Ts embraced the original small-block Chevy with great enthusiasm as soon as they started turning up in junkyards. Today, purists will howl in outrage about LS-swapped Fox Mustangs, but a dispassionate look at it shows this is the same kind of thing gearheads have always done. Mustang engine transplants aren’t limited to just Chevy engines either – Most famously, the notable 2006 documentary film The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift included a 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback with a Nissan RB26DETT as a ‘hero car.’

Today, purists will howl in outrage about LS-swapped Fox Mustangs, but a dispassionate look at it shows this is the same kind of thing gearheads have always done…

Like Honda swaps, the popularity of the LS Fox combination has led to an entire range of aftermarket parts to make the process close to turn-key, and all the information necessary to make it happen successfully is easily accessible online and in print. In fact, there has been a strong “LS all the things!” movement in the enthusiast world, with practically every rear wheel drive platform becoming a candidate for a Gen III/IV GM V8 swap. It’s even reached the point where a backlash has occurred against it – many people see the commonality of the LS as a detriment to the originality and creativity of Pro Touring builds, preferring original or at least period-correct engines. Odds are that any SEMA resto-mod build that isn’t intended to specifically highlight another engine will have some flavor of LS power, to the point where it’s become a running joke among writers and photographers.

Regardless of one’s feelings about LS engine transplants, they’re going to be with us for the foreseeable future, and not just in cars. They’ve become the weapon of choice for inboard-powered boats of all kinds, as well as aircraft and even homebuilt helicopters. But eventually something new will come along, and it’s entirely possible that we may one day see all-electric powertrains with ‘universal’ designs developed to simply drop in place of an internal combustion engine and transmission. While one-off attempts at this have come and gone, as the hardware becomes standardized for OEM use (and thus also becomes more affordable) and battery technology advances to increase energy density, peak output, and cruising range, garage mechanics who want something completely different under the hood will embrace these swaps as well. 

About the Author: Paul Huizenga is a California-based freelance contributor who has owned, raced, and written about everything from Subarus to Mustangs to Corvettes over the last two decades. He is currently studying the feasibility of an LS4 engine and transmission swap into a Fox-body to convert it to Chevy power and front-wheel drive, because some men just want to watch the world burn.

Restore or Restomod?

What To Do With Your Classic Chevy C-10 Truck

Ultimately, the decision of what you decide to do with your truck is up to you—it should be, anyway. Don’t get caught up in the hype of what your pals are doing or what you constantly see in magazines or on social media. At the end of the day, the truck parked in your garage should best represent what you want to see out of it, not just what current trends say it should be. 

With that said, you’re going to have a lot of different avenues when it comes to prepping your truck to get back on the road. Now, some guys might only be concerned about whipping the engine back into shape and driving it as-is, with the original paint/patina and replacing parts with only factory OEM product when available. If OG parts can’t be sourced, using pieces that are designed to resemble original equipment is the only way to go for some Chevy purists. 

Going this route leans into the restoration realm of doing things, and there isn’t anything wrong with it at all. It’s pretty cool seeing an old truck maintain its heritage, and look like a time capsule piece of how it would’ve looked back in the day when it was the new truck on the block. There’s a much stricter guideline to follow going this route, as say going full-on custom, but there’s a place for every type of build out there. It’s just as impressive hearing about where a guy had to go to score rare original parts than it is seeing parts designed to fit but look completely different than stock. This is what truly makes both sides of the spectrum so interesting to see.

With a restomod project, builders celebrate their truck’s age and history while modernizing it to function and feel like a vehicle that better fits today’s standards. Updated creature comforts like stereo systems, aftermarket bolt-on products, non-OEM paint selections—now, these are on the modest side of things. Just wait until you get the urge to do some heavy custom bodywork, air ride suspension, and drop-in an LS performance engines. Stuff like this blows the covers off more straightforward restoration books, because there really aren’t any rules here. Every modification is geared toward personal style and demand. It’s all about picking up where the factory left off decades ago and building a truck that is more unique and personal. 

Sure, current trends keep a majority of restomod C10 trucks looking somewhat uniform, as low suspension stance (air ride or static) and large-diameter wheels have seemingly become a standard for street-styled trucks, but even so, there is still a lot of room to be unique and stand out from the crowd. These trucks are perfect candidates to outfit for street track driving with more responsive coilover chassis setups. There’s even room to go completely against the grain with a restomod, as there are a big number of C10 and C20 trucks that rock lifted suspensions complete with proper off-road wheels and tires to match. 

As with all types of classic or collectible vehicles, there is the question of value when the time ever comes to resell. There are still bone stock C10 “barn find” trucks out there for sale that haven’t seen the road in years, let alone any type of upkeep or customization. These tend to get a lot of attention because most builders would prefer to start with an untouched gem, without having to redo potential shoddy work done by a previous tinkerer. When pitted against each other, it’s fairly common to see a well-done restomod truck selling for more than a clean restored C10. The more of the high profile builds that are featured in all the magazines as well as a SEMA appearance, make it to the auction block and sell for impressive amounts. Now, it might be fractions of what was actually spent in parts and tons of billable hours of fabrication work, but full custom trucks are in demand, especially for someone looking for a completed truck who doesn’t want to start one from the ground up. 

Are restored trucks still valuable? Well, yeah, of course. If there’s a guy out there looking for the exact same truck like his dad or grandpa had when he was a kid, you’d better believe he’s going to lay down some good money to buy something that takes him back to his childhood. Nostalgia sells, especially when it comes to vintage vehicles. Guys looking for the no-frills route, or plan to customize on their own, might also look to this market for the right truck to purchase. 

Nothing is more valuable, however, than having something that has been carefully crafted to suit your specific taste. Now, that could come in the form of a beautifully restored or totally customized pickup—only you can determine that value for yourself. Either way, you’ll have to invest time and money into whatever route you choose to take. And if you don’t even plan to flip the truck, then resale value goes completely out the window. 

Most everyone has one similar goal when building any type of classic truck, and that is for it to be their own, and to reflect their own wants/needs and personality. Think about it—just how many C10s do you see on a daily basis? Not too many, right? Now, think how many completely restored or customized C10s you see. Unless there’s a car show in town, or you just happen to catch that one guy in the neighborhood who has one, chances are you just aren’t going to see them as often as you’d think. Given that fact, your truck is going to be unique no matter what you end up doing with it, and you’re still going to have a blast putting it together—and that’s what really matters once the dust settles. 

A Closer Look at the 2021 Ford Bronco

Does the New Model live Up to the Hype?

There’s a lot to be said about the re-release of vehicle models that go on years-long hiatuses. Some will love, like, or downright hate a factory’s new rendition of an old classic. We’ve seen old muscle car nameplates flex once again in recent years, and while the resurrection of the Chevy Blazer did receive some positive attention at the jump, it really doesn’t seem to be making a lasting impression amongst truck and SUV fans as the 2021 Ford Bronco promises to deliver. 

While we could go on a bit longer about why the Blazer didn’t live up to its expectation, we aren’t really here to touch on that. What we are here to do, however, is to examine just how new Ford Bronco stands to live up to the absolute legend that is its past self. While this task seems easy enough to do, it somehow feels a lot like dissecting a modern classic movie remake. Casual or impartial fans will see the new Bronco for what it is without being overly critical than decades-deep Bronco fanatics who will hold Ford directly responsible for not building their favorite truck “like they used to”. 

While this seems like dangerous grounds to be standing on, the Bronco does have a lot going for it, which makes it highly capable of scoring valuable points from across the many categories of admirers across the market. 

Let’s first start by taking the diehard first gen Bronco into consideration. Ford has modeled the 2021 Bronco to look and feel closer to the all-American, more compact Bronco of the 60’s rather than the later, larger OJ era Bronco of the 90’s. Nostalgia sells for a premium these days, and if there’s a specific version of the SUV to base the reboot after, it’s just gotta be this mid century classic. 

Size wise, the new age Bronco is officially on record as a midsize SUV, which is smack dab in the middle of first gen’s compact classification, and the fifth (and last) gen’s fullsize ranking. Now, it is also important to note that all Broncos previous to the 2021 model were offered in 2-door configuration. The new model is being released as a 2-door, as a nod to its heritage, but it is also being made available in a 4-door option now as well to keep up with modern SUV style and convenience. The 4-door will obviously out measure the 5^th gen 2-door, making it large enough to comfortably fit extra passengers or cargo. 

Aside from size, the new Bronco does have quite a bit in common with its predecessor in the looks department as well. A lot of key elements uphold the spirit of the 1^st gen style pioneer. The use of round headlights, a familiar grille design and an option of a soft top or removable hardtop (depending on door configuration) does call back to a time gone by. Maybe the Bronco would have naturally progressed into this updated take of its inaugural design if it had remained in regular production—it’s tough to say. On the other hand, the remodel may have required a necessary hiatus period for the classic adventure orientated SUV to truly be missed and the calls for nostalgic value to be heard and answered. 

Ford will not only introduce one new 2021 Bronco, but multiple Broncos (7 to be exact). From the base model, all the way up to the top of the line ‘First Edition’ edition, which is trimmed and optioned out with the best upgrade packages from the variations ‘below’ it. The wide variety of premium add-ons that will be available will truly separate the Bronco of old with this year’s model. Lots of technology is available from remote start with the entry level model to a 12-inch LCD touchscreen and B&O sound system available starting in the mid-tier Outer Banks trim package. It’s a little unfair to compare the interiors of the new and old Bronco, as the previous truck was a true utility vehicle of its time. The standard then was minimal to say the least, and today’s Bronco definitely brings the SUV up to meet modern conveniences and luxury comforts we have grown accustomed to. 

The 2021 Bronco isn’t just a handsome, renovated shell with some convenient bells and whistles attached, as the base model is equipped with a 2.3L turbocharged 4-banger that boasts 270HP with 310 lb-ft of torque—not too shabby to start. There’s also an optional 2.7L turbo V-6 that’s also available for additional romp. Transmission offerings include a seven-speed manual with a crawler gear standard on the 2.3L, as well as a 10-speed auto that is standard issue on the 2.7L and optional equipment on the smaller engine. These modern power plants most definitely blow the largest of original engine models, the 205HP 4.9L V-8 small block, right off the trail. 

Suspension and smart driving modes also set the new Bronco apart from the old version. To start, the full-boxed steel frame and the IFS system already give the 2021 Bronco a leg up, but then it starts racking up more technical features higher up in the trim level chain. The Go Over Any Terrain (GOAT) package features eight unique driving modes including Normal, Eco, Sport, Slippery, Sand, Baja, Mud/Ruts, and Rock Crawl—enough to satisfy any type of driver in just about any type of off-road condition. 

The anticipation for the 2021 Ford Bronco has been building steadily, and for good reason. It’s been 55 years since the OG Bronco was released, and in that time it has gained a tremendous reputation and devout following. It’s almost unfair to pit the new model against its previous self, given the obvious advantages available to it, but it’s cool to see what the Bronco has evolved into. This is the SUV its fans have been awaiting. For the “purists” who may not be planning to partake in this next generation of Bronco adventure, there’s still no denying the potential this new generation has to becoming a lasting presence in the modern off-road marketplace. 

Springs vs. Coilovers vs. Bags: What’s the Difference?

Are Springs, Coilovers, or Air Suspension Best for Performance?

It might seem like common sense that having more choices when it comes to just about any decision is a good thing. In many circumstances, that’s true, but when presented with too many options, ‘decision paralysis’ can set in, making it harder instead of easier to choose the right path. Instead of making life easier, it causes anxiety, slows down or even stops decision-making, and can even lead to remorse after the fact as you churn through all the possibilities you didn’t pick. 

When it comes to upgrading a car’s suspension for high performance street or track use, we’ve reached the point where for many popular platforms, there’s no clear winner for every situation out of a wide variety of aftermarket setups. While we can’t guarantee you’ll avoid ‘paralysis by analysis,’ we might be able to help clarify your priorities with the following look at the pros and cons of the three basic categories of mods: Spring and damper replacement, coilover conversion, and air suspension. 

Springs and Shocks/Struts

This category encompasses replacing the factory-spec springs and dampers (whether those are conventional shock absorbers, MacPherson struts, or a combination of the two) with upgraded aftermarket parts.  

Pro:

• Likely to be the least-expensive option, both to buy and to install (if you don’t do it yourself)
• Properly-engineered matching suspension kits take the guesswork out of picking the right spring rates and compression/rebound settings
• Durability is often as good as or better than factory parts
• Some high-end kits offer limited damper adjustment for fine-tuning
• Fewest compromises in ride quality and noise for dual use street/track cars

Con:

• Limited range of spring rates for applications ‘out of the mainstream’
• Systems on the most affordable end of the spectrum usually offer no ride height or damping adjustment

The Bottom Line:

Usually the least-expensive and most-available option, but with significant compromises in adjustability and performance as the tradeoff.

Coilover Conversion

For the purpose of this discussion, we’re going to define coilovers as a complete replacement of the factory spring and damper setup, whether those are individual components or struts, with aftermarket alternatives. This is the most typical choice for serious track applications, but also has a wide fanbase for street/track use as well – partially because of the serious race cred and the ‘hardcore’ aura that goes with the tradeoffs involved. 

Pro: 

• Short of a completely re-engineered suspension right down to the control arms and chassis attachment points, coilovers offer the best possible handling and the widest range of adjustment, as well as more precision and repeatability when changing settings
• Good coverage from multiple manufacturers for the most popular car applications
• Narrower coilover units can offer more clearance for wider wheels and tires without fender modification
• Adjustable ride height without altering spring rates
• Dampers available in configurations from non-adjustable to 4-way (high/low speed compression and rebound)
• Relatively simple and easy to change spring rates with ‘universal’ springs to suit different track conditions

Con: 

• A very, very wide range of quality/price, from pro level down to “I bought this off of Wish – why doesn’t it fit?”
• A whole new form of decision paralysis – lots of adjustment often means more ways to get it wrong
• Systems intended for track use can be noisy and harsh on less-than-perfect pavement
• Expect to either replace or rebuild the dampers on a regular basis, as they are usually designed with longevity as a lower priority
• Less-common performance cars may need to have coilover sets pieced together from components if ‘all in one box’ kits aren’t available

The Bottom Line:

Not the best choice for comfort or street driving, but the de-facto standard for full-race use. Beware of pitfalls in quality at the low end of the scale, and excessive complexity at the high end.

Air Suspension

Commonly referred to as “bags,” today’s performance-oriented air suspension systems are a far cry from the lashed-together rigs that pioneered the technology. Once strictly an option for “stance” and car shows instead of performance, it’s now a solid contender for track-oriented builds.

Pro:

• Adjustable ride height is the main attraction here – modern air springs offer a wide range of spring heights selectable simply by adding or reducing pressure, and clever design of the air bags themselves achieves this without significant changes in spring rate
• Compatible with multi-adjustable race-spec dampers for suspension tuning
• Systems with quality air springs rival conventional factory steel springs for durability
• A great choice for cars that will see use on both the race course and the street, making low ride height that would be a disaster with a ‘static’ coilover suspension achievable in a car you can still drive to and from the track
• Complete, ready-to-install kits are available for more applications every day

Con: 

• Trends towards the expensive end of the scale compared to anything but full-race coilover systems
• Additional hardware like compressors, tanks, solenoids, and pressure gauges required for adjustment on-the-fly, which adds expense and weight
• Modern air springs only allow changes in ride height while spring rate remains the same, requiring complete replacement of a relatively expensive component to alter it
• Like coilovers, less-popular applications may require ‘a la carte’ component selection instead of an off-the-shelf solution

The Bottom Line:
The king of adjustability, at the expense of additional weight and cost. Limited (but growing) off-the-shelf choices.

Wrapping it Up

There’s no one-size-fits all solution to picking the right path for the suspension on your project car or daily driver, and the wide variety of choices (made worse by conflicting advice from all directions) doesn’t help. Hopefully we’ve made it a little bit easier for you to organize your priorities, from the cost involved to the complexity of installation and tuning to your personal intended use (which often turns out to be somewhat different from where you actually end up in practice). Relax, take a deep breath, and consider the options we have set before you as a starting point in your search for the perfect suspension.

What’s the Next 240sx?

Filling The Iconic Tuner Car’s Shoes Won’t Be Easy

Unappreciated in its day, only available in the US with the much-maligned KA24 “truck motor,” and canceled Stateside before we could get the S15 version, Nissan’s 240SX has finally gained the popularity among enthusiasts it deserved from the start. Unfortunately, the days of picking up an unmolested, factory-original Nissan 240sx for sale for next to nothing are long gone, leaving us to wonder what might be the next platform to take its place in our hearts as the true 240SX alternative. 

After much beard-scratching and somber contemplation of the question, we’ve come up with five possible candidates for “the next 240SX.” We’re sure that not everyone will agree with our choices, but we’ll try to list the pros and cons of each so that at least you know why we picked the cars we did. Now, in no particular order, here’s our best guesses:

SN-95 Ford Mustang (1994-2004)

Before you get all bunched up about a domestic pony car being on our list, hear us out. These cars are cheap, plentiful, available with an OHC V8 in 2-, 3-, and 4-valve per cylinder layouts depending on year and model, and there’s an enormous performance aftermarket for practically every important component from driveline to suspension. They’re relatively light for their size, especially the V6 models, mechanically uncomplicated compared to more modern cars, and if you really want a turbo 4 or V6, all the show-stoppers involved in an EcoBoost swap have more or less been figured out. 

The only real knock on this platform is that the vast majority were solid-axle cars (but so was the AE86…) and even that can be addressed with a factory IRS rear end swap from a 1999-2004 Cobra or as a complete kit from Ford Performance Parts.

NA/NB Mazda Miata (1989-2005)

Here’s another potentially controversial addition to our list. The first and second gen Miata, despite having all the right elements put together in a very competent manner, labor under the stereotype of being a “chick car” – and that’s about the nicest way to say it. Nevertheless, they’re a ton of fun to drive, there’s an endless assortment of upgrades available thanks to a very substantial presence in club racing, and if you want more power than the standard naturally-aspirated 1.6 or 1.8l engine delivers, there’s always the 178-horsepower factory turbocharged 2004-2005 Mazdaspeed model. There were even people building complete kits to drop 5.0l pushrod Ford V8 engines into them before LS-swapped 240s were a thing.

On the downside, there is the fact that even without the optional hard top or the standard cloth roof up, the Miata is cramped at best, and an interference fit for drivers on the taller half of the adult American bell curve. Even so, the clearest signal that these cars are on the upswing in popularity is the fact that it is getting harder and harder to find them for sale in reasonable condition at bargain prices. If you fit, and you are secure enough in your identity to just laugh off the haters, these Mazdas are worth serious consideration.

Z33 Nissan 350Z (2003-2008)

After Nissan basically had the 300ZX priced out of the US market in 1996, the Z32 platform lingered until 2000 in its home country, but no replacement was immediately forthcoming. It took Renault’s purchase of a huge chunk of the company and the installation of automotive visionary/international fugitive from justice Carlos Ghosn as Nissan CEO to get the Z back into production. The result was a very competent sports car that took the nameplate back to its roots after the previous generations had gotten progressively softer and more oriented toward the “grand tourer” paradigm.

The VQ35 N/A V6 provided ample power from the outset and got better as the Z33 model years progressed, starting at 287 horsepower, then getting a bump to 300 for 2005 and finally 306 for the final two years of production. ‘07-’08 models are also generally agreed to have the best gearboxes out of the bunch as well. Needless to say, there’s an enormous amount of factory and aftermarket parts support, and these cars have always been popular with tuners so competent setup and modification isn’t exactly blazing a new trail.

Unfortunately, when the Z34/370Z was introduced, these cars saw a large enough drop in price in the secondary market that even though they were relatively new, they were still cheap enough to be chewed up en mass by owners and shops not entirely focused on treating them respectfully. As a result, those that escaped rough handling can be hard to find and somewhat pricey, but if you are willing to do some searching and possibly undo previous mods made with more enthusiasm than skill, the 350Z is a good candidate as a replacement to the 24osx.

Toyota 86/Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ (2012-2020)

When the Subieota twins were introduced in the US under both Toyota’s Scion sub-brand and Subaru badging, the expectations among enthusiasts were sky-high. So high, in fact, that despite getting all the fundamentals right, the car wasn’t a huge hit, with US combined sales peaking at just under 27,000 units in 2013, and dwindling to under 5,000 by 2020. Some of that can be attributed to the belief that a turbo version was just around the corner, but the only engine available was a N/A 2-liter flat four from the Subaru parts bin that only delivered 205 horsepower.

Some automotive journalists are still betting on a second generation eventually going into production with Subaru’s turbo 2.4 and an additional 55 or so horsepower, but current events and ever-declining sales numbers during the initial run bode against that. Since there’s little mechanical difference between the first and last models and depreciation has had almost a decade to work its magic on the price of early cars (which were never really overpriced new, at least once dealers stopped adding on additional markup) these may be an up-and-comer for the title of “next 240SX.” Aftermarket parts selection is OK but not extraordinary, and there are relatively straightforward engine swaps to Subaru’s more desirable engines being done on the regular. We’ve even seen a “BRZ-06” with a Corvette LS under the hood, though we suspect that replacement rear tires for that car will cost more than the conversion in the long run…

Hyundai Genesis Coupe (2010-2016)

Here’s one we almost guarantee wasn’t on your radar before this – Hyundai’s first RWD sports coupe is one of those, “oh right, I remember that!” cars that never really got the attention it deserved, in our opinion. Available with a choice of 2.0l turbocharged four cylinder or 3.8l V6 power, it was mostly lost in the shadow of its contemporaries like the aforementioned Toyobaru and even the then-current V6 Mustang and Camaro. The 2013-up turbo four delivered 275 or so horsepower, complete with a bit of boost lag not seen much any more (but highly nostalgic in its own way). The GDI version of the V6 that dropped in 2013 also picked up substantial power compared to its multiport-injected predecessor, rated at just shy of 350 ponies and putting it on par with the 370Z NISMO, if you can believe it.

Aftermarket support is sparse but not non-existent, and these typically carry a late-model used car price tag, but you can be assured that you won’t be lost in a sea of Genesis Coupes at your local cruise night, and they are a ton of fun to drive, with even the N/A V6 models being surprisingly tossable much like the Nissan 240sx. 

That concludes our conjecture for now, and as we draw the veil over our crystal ball until next time, we wonder what your predictions are for the enthusiast successor to the 240SX…

State of Speed Los Angeles: An August Affair

Three shows down and hundreds of cars rolling through, we are incredibly pleased with the turnout of the State of Speed Los Angeles Car Show, presented by Milestar Tires. From the beginning, we knew the local car scene had a ton to offer, and that the monthly meet would end up being a melting pot of incredible builds and bonafide gear heads of all stripes.

This time around, the Los Angeles automotive enthusiast heads came out in droves.

First, The Cars!

Dusting off then gassing up your ride and heading to the event early is indeed the way to go. Cars start rolling in before the clock hits 7 AM to grab the prime spots, and of course, the glorious early morning photo op!

Most of the time you’ll hear them before you see them, and it’s a guessing game as to what is about to pull in next. It doesn’t take much time before the lot starts filling up with builds of every interest. Restored classics and restomods to old school JDM’s and some serious off-road machines —  there’s sure to be something for every taste.

The People

Great builds take more than some spare change, and it’s the car owners that bring these projects to life.

They’re out there answering questions about each and every minute detail of their ride; whether you’re just genuinely interested in the labor behind someone’s rotary swapped Datsun, or are looking for some recommendations on a bigger turbo, each and every owner is more than happy to chop it up about their ride.

A Day Well Spent

As the shows continue to take place each month, and the crowds continue to grow, we are excited to see the scale of State of Speed Los Angeles in the times to come. We’re grateful to collaborate with Milestar Tires to bring this event to fruition, and there isn’t a better place out there to hold the event than the Tireco headquarters in Gardena, CA.

So for those that have previously shown up for State of Speed Los Angeles, we look forward to seeing you again, and for those who haven’t, stop by, grab a coffee, and bring your ride!

Hodson Motors’ Forest Service Ford F-250 Restomod

In our last feature installment starring the father and son duo at Hodson Motors, Derrick and Riley Hodson, we explored their amazing beast of a truck—the ’83 Jeep J10 they affectionately refer to as the JRT10. Outfitted with a V-10 Viper engine, SRT10 interior, a full 4-inch lift and all the fixins, along with a unique visual appeal that has become the Hodson’s calling card, the JRT10 is staying put in the permanent Hodson collection. However, the truck is always in high demand when fans are able to take a closer inspection. 

“Dad comes up with these crazy concepts for truck builds, briefs me on his vision, and sends me off to make it happen.”Riley Hodson

With so many impressive completed and in-progress projects to look at, we’ve decided to reserve some space on the Internet to take a well-deserved peek at a truck that means a lot to Derrick. “This 1964 Ford F250 is something particularly cool that my dad wanted to build”, Riley says. Now, for those who aren’t up to speed on how the Hodsons operate their shop, their method is pretty straightforward and very effective. “Dad comes up with these crazy concepts for truck builds, briefs me on his vision, and sends me off to make it happen”, adds Riley. This is the truck that really kick started Derrick’s truck collecting and established Riley’s work flow to make said trucks come to life. 

In the case of this F250, the plan was to dig up something quite rare, which is now par for the Hodson course, and add some special parts to really make it come together, which is also a common ingredient in the family recipe. “This truck here is actually a factory F250 4×4 short bed”, Riley admits. “But what really makes it unique is that it was a custom ordered short bed, as it was a brush fire truck with a water tank in the bed. These kinds of trucks were used at National Parks by the Forest Service.” 

The first step in the project was to first locate one of these trucks out in the wild, which is a process Riley now has down to a science. “The hard part is not really finding these trucks, it’s the actual digging them out of the far off, remote locations they are usually in, and dragging them back home to our shop in Las Vegas that poses the real challenge.” While we aren’t at liberty to discuss where this particular F250 was found, we can share the details about what was done to the truck to make it come out they way it did. 

Even though the truck is a rare bird as-is, the first thing Riley and his crew at Hodson Motors did was cut it up. The rear fenders were stretched three inches wider and 6 inches longer, and F600 medium duty fenders were grafted into place up front, as was a front clip from the same truck. To give the roof another six inches of additional headroom, an F800 tall cap was worked into the equation. 

To further make the truck their own, Riley and his crew built a completely custom bed for the F250, and also installed a unibody big back window to help brighten up the inside of the cab. Now, you may be wondering where the heck these guys are able to source so many killer parts from obscure trucks. Well, let’s just say the guys have been doing some healthy hoarding over the years, and know exactly where to get more.  

When all the metal work was done to the truck, it was sprayed with a green primer and left that way for quite some time. The guys started getting used to that green color, and ended up mixing a custom gunmetal gloss green hue to finish it off while keeping the looks of it somewhat familiar.  

To increase the big look of the truck shell itself and give it that Hodson Motors classic touch, the suspension was lifted a full four inches all around. The original frame and axles were utilized in the overhaul, and the roll cage you see—it’s made from 4-inch pipe, not hollow tube, so it’s super heavy and damn near bulletproof. To capitalize on the taller ride height, a set of 20-inch Method NV wheels were selected, as was a set of 38-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T tires to ensure the truck was as capable to handle rough terrain and not just look the part. 

Powering the F250 is a Lincoln 460 big block with a few add-ons in the way of a Sniper EFI self-tuning fuel injection system, and a C6 transmission. The engine compartment is clean and tidy, and is designed so to keep function a top priority. Also designed with function in mind, is the F250’s interior space, although a ton of form has also been thrown in for good measure. Freshly distressed leather was used on the bench seat, center console, and door panels for an plush vet vintage looking appearance. As with all the builds that Hodson creates, a lineup of usual creature comforts in the way of Dakota Digital gauges, full air conditioning, and power windows were included to modernize the feel of the interior. 

Imagine what the forest rangers back in the 60’s would say about what has become of one of their old work trucks. The Hodsons work their magic time and again in order to dream up and build the type of trucks that are now directly associated with their name. If this Ford gives you any tingles (as it should), check out some of the other Hodson Motors’ creations, and be sure to stay tuned to their social accounts for future projects that will be sure to push the envelope even further. 

Inaugural State of Speed LA Car Show Recap

Incredible builds, delicious coffee, great people — what more could have come from a successful inaugural State of Speed Los Angeles car show? First off, let’s start off by saying thank you to each and every person that showed up for the event, Milestar Tires for sponsoring the show, and Clutch and Coffee for providing the fresh brews.

It’s refreshing to know that a group of gearheads that share the same passion for their rides can come together for an extraordinary time!

Now, let’s dive on into the turnout of immaculate builds that showed up for the State of Speed LA event! As stated before the event, this was most definitely not a run of the mill car show. It was expected that a truly diverse group of cars would show up, from JDM and Euro to Off-Road and Mini Trucks. There was no shortage of any, either.

Once the clock hit 7 o’clock, people were rolling in to collect their limited edition State of Speed Los Angeles t-shirts, and boy did those go quick! Once parked and hood popped, the next most important thing to do was grab a cup of coffee, and a delicious one at that. Clutch and Coffee supplied the goods, and it was a hit!

By 9AM, the Tireco parking lot was popping, but no, not audibly. A huge thanks to everyone for also being respectful of the show and keeping the engine noises to a minimum! The lot was packed, and the three hours flew by, but there was plenty of time to check out each car and talk to the individuals behind the builds. Once 10AM came, cars slowly started to head out while bystanders headed towards the exits to hear the sweet tones of each car as they departed.

Overall, our inaugural State of Speed LA show was a huge success! Another thank you goes out to our lead sponsor, Milestar Tires, our coffee vendor, Clutch and Coffee, and most importantly, those who showed up with some killer rides. We look forward to the next event and hope everyone can make it out, so stay tuned!

Hodson Motors’ Viper-Powered Jeep JRT10

Lifted trucks, classic trucks, rare trucks—if you consider yourself a fan of either or all of these categories, then you’ve surely heard of Hodson Motors out of Las Vegas, NV. Derrick and his son Riley Hodson operate their modest shop in the middle of the desert that houses parts and pieces from some pretty not-often-seen medium duty pickups from the past. Crew cabs that you never even knew existed are there, as well the other key ingredients required to create their insanely cool one-off machines. 

So the way Derrick and Riley operate is pretty simple—Derrick comes up with the grand ideas, and then brainstorms with Riley and lets him loose on figuring out how to make those ideas come to life. The guys have come to rely on a network of tightly knit shops to assist in their builds over the years, and in that time the Hodsons have amassed quite the personal truck collection, including this 1983 Jeep J10 that they affectionately call the JRT10. Derrick started on it seven years ago alongside local Las Vegas off-road fabricator, Cameron Chin, who owns and operates Nefarious Kustoms. Wanting to finally button up the build, they kept running with their vision of a rarely seen Jeep pickup model beefed up and customized to meet their specialized criteria. Also on the docket were a couple of imported tricks to make the J10 truly different from the rest. 

In the end, the time-consuming engine swap was well worth the effort just for the sake of saying that the Jeep now has an SRT-10 mill under the hood…

With an engine swap already in the stars for the Jeep, the guys narrowed the running down to a Viper SRT-10 engine. Yeah, that’s quite the jump, and a little more in-depth than Riley had initially anticipated. “The install was complicated”, he admits. “The firewall had to be chopped, and the radiator actually had to be relocated back to the bed if you can believe that. It just didn’t fit in the engine bay, so we had to run stainless tubing for the water underneath the truck.” In the end, the time-consuming engine swap was well worth the effort just for the sake of saying that the Jeep now has an SRT-10 mill under the hood—and, it lent a hand in creating a pretty catchy nickname for the truck. 

Since the Hodsons have been building cool trucks on a more frequent basis over the past six years or so, they’ve whipped up their own winning recipe that is applied to all of their projects, which always includes a killer suspension setup. The Jeep now sits on a full front and rear 4-link suspension system complete with a caged rear frame and Radflo long travel remote reservoir coilovers, so you just know this thing rides comfortably—even on the rough stuff. 

With the all-around lifted ride height, a healthy set of rubber could be thrown into the mix without any clearance issues. 37-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T tires were selected for their tried and true all-terrain exploration capabilities. While tires of this stature are commonplace in the lifted truck scene, so is the use of stock fenders, unfortunately. Hodson Motors has come to appreciate the importance of keeping proportion in mind when incorporating large tires, and to do that they like to go with larger fenders to keep up. To give the JRT10 correct proportional balance, AutoFab wide body fenders were utilized up front while the bedsides were widened six inches with fresh three-inch wider rear fenders to boot. Now, give the truck another look. All that extra bodywork makes much more sense when understanding the method to their madness. 

With the truck getting closer to paint, the guys started debating what color to have it sprayed. A specific Lamborghini color caught their eye, but it turns out they don’t typically release the actual codes to their paint—go figure. Instead, Matthew Miller of Nefarious Kustoms had to trust his eyeballs to match up an opal blue metallic pearl color that came pretty damn close to the Lambo shade. He then sealed it up with an eggshell matte clear coat, and blacked out all the exterior trim for good measure. The original front end was swapped out with a Gladiator Rhino grille conversion, and new LED lighting was wired up for updated looks and increased nighttime visibility. 

Other items that were scavenged from the SRT-10 donor were the black suede power bucket seats and dash cluster, which look right at home inside the Jeep. “All of our builds also feature what I usually refer to as creature comforts”, Riley adds. “These are just the common modern amenities such as power locks and windows, and air conditioning—all those little things that we enjoy in our daily drivers should be included in custom classic builds as well.” With the added Bluetooth stereo system, push button start, leather-wrapped steering wheel and dash, and a whole lot more, the cab space feels much more plush than one might expect from the Jeep at first glance. 

While the JRT-10 is a permanent part of the Hodson Motors collection, it does serve as a representation of what type of truck Derrick and Riley enjoy building and driving. If their custom trucks are good enough to make them happy, it’s a safe bet the ones they create for their customers will be finished off even better. If you’re looking to check out some crazy off-road rigs that perform just as good as they look, Hodson will surely scratch the itch of the uncommon utility truck fanatic.

The Cleanest ’75 Ford Bronco On Dirt

Jeff Godbold admits that his time owning this ’75 Ford Bronco surely hasn’t been the most exciting era the truck has ever seen. Actually, since its lengthy, in-depth rebuild, the Bronco really hasn’t been worked all too hard, but that’s mainly due in part because of how clean it has come to be. Jeff purchased the Bronco from the guy who invested the time to completely blow it apart and piece back together again with parts and products that would ultimately allow it to perform and look better than it has in its 47 years in existence. And who’d want to go and get those kind of results muddy? 

“I purchased the Ford Bronco completely done in 2012”, Jeff says. “The guy I bought it from was an older retired police officer, who spent several years doing most of the work himself. With the exception of waiting a couple years for the bodywork and paint to be completed, he did his part in pretty good time.” 

Time, in fact, was something that the previous owner put a large emphasis on. When he sold the Bronco to Jeff, he also included a rather extensive parts and cost list, as well as a well-organized log of billable hours that accounted for everything from the 13-hour engine and transmission rebuild job on 1/20/2009 right down to the 2-hour wash and vacuum back on 10/10/2005. Every other imaginable modification in between is also accounted for, as you could imagine, which is awesome to see actually. This very detailed record keeping has given Jeff a level of insight most folks don’t get when buying someone else’s project vehicle. 

High on the list of completed chores was the rebuild of the 347ci stroker engine that has all the bells and whistles any gearhead would flip over, and to capitalize on all the extra performance gains, Jeff added an overdrive transmission after he took ownership of the Ford Bronco to make it more freeway-friendly. Also on the logbook is a 2-inch body lift with all new mounts and bolts, as well as new American Racing wheels, center caps, lug nuts and locks and finished off properly with 33-inch Milestar Patagonia M/T tires. 

This ’75 is basically a brand new rig, and has been built to easily conquer rugged terrain, although it has only been assigned light duty work since its completion. Don’t go pointing fingers at Jeff for this, as the previous owner also kept the Bronco in the garage most of the time since he thought it turned out too nice to have to power wash every weekend. 

It’s just one of those rare gems that is a direct product of someone’s grand vision, and in this case fueled by a period of his absolute mania.

“We’ve towed the Bronco with our motorhome and driven it around some during our outings, but nothing too crazy”, Jeff admits. “I’ve also taken it to a car show, even though that’s not really my thing, but the response to it was nothing short of amazing”, he adds. Even though the Bronco has been equipped to handle the trails, the quality of its reworking has placed it in the show vehicle category, which wasn’t the original intent. Either way, there’s something to be said about owning a classic off-road truck of this caliber. It’s just one of those rare gems that is a direct product of someone’s grand vision, and in this case fueled by a period of his absolute mania. 

At the end of the all-encompassing parts and labor list is a grand totaling of just about $63k, which sounds about right. There may have been some other costs that slipped by the last owner, but he didn’t seem like the type to leave anything out. Jeff didn’t pay that much to bring the Bronco home, naturally, but in today’s current market for vintage Ford Broncos, this number sits somewhere on the low end considering the extent of its rebuild. With the release of the new 2021 Ford Bronco, there seems to be an undeniable uptick in sales of classic models that could be peaking right now due to timely nostalgia. That’s what we’ve come up with anyway, but that sure would explain the spike in resale value. 

You’d be hard pressed to find another Bronco that has been restored to this ‘75’s pedigree. There’s always new evidence to be found of it with every inspection, and of course when pouring through the list of modifications that has been compiled during its transition. Jeff has had quite a number of custom vehicles in the 25 years that he’s been into cars, and even though he might not drive the Bronco as much as any of the others, he has appreciated the time spent with it. 

The moment has come for Jeff to release the ’75 Ford Bronco into the care of another owner, and he can only hope it might get more use in the dirt as it is certainly equipped to handle it. On the other hand, he wouldn’t blame them for deciding to continue the tradition of keeping the Bronco as clean as can be. What would your driving habits be with this machine if you happened to find yourself its next lucky owner?

Click Here to view the 1975 Ford Bronco on Bring A Trailer.

Engine Swap Fundamentals: Trucks

Classic pickup trucks are great candidates for engine swaps for many reasons. For starters, the original motor in any vehicle more than 20 years is bound to be tired and in need of an intensive overhaul if it hasn’t been properly and regularly serviced throughout the years. Enthusiasts who are interested in giving their old truck a new breath of life with a modern engine with far more power, an engine swap is the best way to go given the amount of ready-to-go crate engines and install kits that can make the job doable, and rather affordable too. Whatever the case may be, a new engine can make a world of difference in the experience in building and driving a custom classic truck or vehicle of any type, really. 

New or Used? 

Either way, there’s no losing when replacing that old, whipped engine that’s way past its prime.

Depending on the type of truck you’re working on, there will be plenty of engine options to consider. “New VS. Junkyard Find” will always be a heated battle that will almost always favor a brand new mill given the reliability and warrantied performance at a slightly higher premium when compared to a used engine that would require maintenance and refurbishment before installation. While a good amount of builders will resort to ordering a virgin engine, there is a respectable sect that prefers to scour the junkyards and partake in the thrill of the hunt when looking for that perfect transplant motor that can be had at a fraction of the price. Either way, there’s no losing when replacing that old, whipped engine that’s way past its prime. 

Engine Types

While Coyote 5.0L Mustang engine swaps are trending in classic Ford pickup builds, LS engines have been all the rage in the C10 market for some time now. Since the size is similar to a small-block Chevy (SBC), there is plenty of room to plant one under the hood of just any year classic GM truck.

While there are plenty of other engine SBC V-8 options to select from such as a 350, 327 or 305 models, nowadays the LS platform has taken center stage with a very wide selection of aftermarket kits to assist in the swap of your truck’s new engine. Whichever engine route you decide to take, it will be a drastic change in performance compared to your truck’s dated power plant. 

Adaptability 

While available room isn’t an issue so much when installing a smaller, more modern engine into a classic truck, the matter of properly placing the engine becomes the real factor during a swap. While there are many installation kits available for LS and other engine platforms to pick from, the job itself is anything but plug and play—no matter what you see advertised online. Selecting correct engine mounts is paramount, and luckily, finding the right ones isn’t hard these days.

Aside from getting the new engine to sit in the right place, you’re also going to want to consider swapping out the transmission, driveshaft and all the fixins, especially if you’re going with a more high performance engine. While not necessary at first (but highly recommended), just keep in mind that the OE equipment, especially depending on its age, wasn’t designed to handle the kind of power an LS unit is capable of. Oh, and don’t forget a torque converter. 

Breathing and Cooling Options 

A new engine will require a fresh exhaust system with an emphasis on a proper exhaust manifold and header selection. While there is a range of affordability here to fit any budget swap, you’ll want to take clearance into heavy consideration here. 

A capable radiator is also of utmost importance since heat will definitely not be your new engine’s friend. Depending on the engine you’ve selected to run with, it may be more feasible to go the aftermarket route, maybe even an engine-specific selection, instead of saving a few bucks salvaging one from the scrapyard. 

Gassed 

Let’s say that you went with an LS engine to swap into your old truck. If that’s the case, then you may be ecstatic to ditch a carbureted setup and run with an EFI setup, unless you’re a big, big, BIG fan of the carb. Choosing EFI will make you consider fuel tank and pump options that will vary based on price and level of installation that you’re comfortable with. And if you just can’t stand to stray from a carbureted fuel system, there won’t be as much of an issue, but just be prepared to handle the pros/cons of whichever option you choose. 

Take Control 

It might not click instantly when planting a modern engine underneath the hood of your old truck, but new engines carry with them their own sets of characteristics to take into consideration. Now, when it comes to the ECU (electronic control unit) and wiring harnesses, you’ll have options to choose from to better dial in the installation process. This is where things can get exponentially interesting. Depending on how you plan to drive your truck, you can select an aftermarket ECU controller package that can handle the wiring, as well as enable you to unlock your engine’s true performance capabilities. Builders looking to race their truck or run it through the autocross course will get the most out of topping off the swap with the right ECU package for the job. 

Kick start your sluggish pickup project by tossing the old engine out, and swapping in a brand new crate engine or freshly rebuilt motor in its place. While an engine swap does encourage the replacement of the transmission at the same time, as well as a lot of other key equipment pieces, the job can really update a classic truck in more ways than initially realized. Increase horsepower by the ton, while also delivering a new sense of reliability in the truck you plan on getting real seat time in with whether it be at the track or open stretches of highway. An engine swap isn’t the easiest or cheapest things to do with your truck, but one that will certainly make the biggest impact in the way you enjoy it. 

Who’s The Boss: Ford Raptor vs RAM TRX

Now, there have been A LOT of comparisons between these two behemoths of the factory off-road truck world, and the results are pretty much unanimous. But we aren’t really here to determine a winner or loser, because let’s be honest here, neither the Raptor nor the TRX deserves to be called a loser—not in the slightest. There is, however, a more divisive line that has been drawn in the dirt as to which of these two impressive trucks hits the hardest—for now. 

Right out the gate, it’s no secret that the 2021 RAM 1500 TRX currently packs a heavier punch. The supercharged, intercooled 16-valve 6.2L V-8 cranks out a bruising 702HP with 650 lb-ft of torque, which just happens to be the true definition of Hellcat power right there! Now, as impressive as those numbers are by themselves, just think that the TRX completely mashes the Raptor’s 450HP offering by a difference of 252HP! That’s big. On paper alone, RAM clearly takes the first arm wrestling match, but we’re quite interested to see how Ford retaliates with the next Raptor rollout. Whatever they do come back with has to be some kind of big artillery in hope to keep up at the very least. 

When it comes to the exterior of both trucks when they’re side by side, there’s clearly a larger one of the two. The TRX stands more than two inches taller than the Raptor and measures almost two inches wider. The beefier façade just isn’t skin deep, as the RAM truck tips the scales at 6,866 pounds—nearly 900 pounds heavier than the Raptor. That extra size and weight doesn’t exactly equate to a slower moving pickup, as the TRX can reach the 60mph mark quite quicker than the Raptor. Again, while RAM is leading the race at the moment in the performance category, we’ll see what Ford cooks up in the future to combat this onslaught. 

As far as suspension and handling is concerned, both the TRX and Raptor offer more-than-competent suspension systems comprised of well-qualified suspension components, but the RAM has proven to edge out Ford, and that is mostly in part to the inclusion of a coil spring system paired with Bilstein adaptive dampers. The Raptor still employs leaf springs, which may change at some point (maybe not), but so, as there are some necessary tweaks to be made in order for the former off-road champ to hopefully re-enter the contest with increased maneuverability. While there is definitely nothing “wrong” with the Raptor’s existing suspension setup, as it would outperform a great deal of would-be performance trucks out there looking to contend, it’s just that RAM really has raised the bar that much higher in this category, especially for its weight class.